PRC as a amplifier in GPS question.

[a.busker]

-=Spudley=- wrote:

68 Watts is the specified power consumption of the AMP.
Assuming 80% efficiency of a decent inverter he probably needs a 100 Watt
inverter to run the amp at 240 VAC off SLA batteries, that's a decent load
100/12 = 8.3 AMP/Hour
If he wishes to busk for more than an hour or so he would need to get some
large SLA batteries to accommodate, and as the weight increases with AH
rating of those batteries he could be up for quite a haul.

What's the most compact battery I can get? I don't mind spending $300 or so.
If I can't get the amp modified to run on DC, that sounds like the only
option.

I ran into a busker in Melbourne who similar amp. He was running it off of
some special little battery that he said was used by scuba divers, going
through an inverter. It was tiny! Do you have any idea what kind of battery
that would be?

Phil Allison wrote:
"a.busker" <sillyemail@nowhere.com

Is my only option, therefore, to carry around a big car battery and
an inverter?


** You can get fairly small car batteries - or chose from a wide
range of SLA batteries that are not too heavy to carry about. The
inverter you would need to deliver 60 watts max is tiny.

Stop being a whining twat, check out the 12 volt battery situation
and pick one that suits - then you can run most any small SS amp you
like.


..... Phil

--
token signature

 

[Phil Allison]

"a.busker"

( Snip totally asinine bullshit from the Spud head fuckwit )

What's the most compact battery I can get? I don't mind spending $300 or
so.

** You're a PITA idiot.

An SLA or auto battery is the answer.

I ran into a busker in Melbourne who similar amp. He was running it off of
some special little battery that he said was used by scuba divers, going
through an inverter. It was tiny!

** So fucking what ?

You do not need tiny nor the troubles that go with it being tiny.

Do you have any idea what kind of battery
that would be?

** Could be lithium polymer = lotsa trouble just waiting to happen

Forget it - wanker.


....... Phil

Is my only option, therefore, to carry around a big car battery and
an inverter?


** You can get fairly small car batteries - or chose from a wide
range of SLA batteries that are not too heavy to carry about. The
inverter you would need to deliver 60 watts max is tiny.

Stop being a whining twat, check out the 12 volt battery situation
and pick one that suits - then you can run most any small SS amp you
like.


..... Phil

 

[Terryc]

a.busker wrote:

What's the most compact battery I can get?

LiPoly, but I don't know what capacity you'd get for $300, probably
about 3 AmpHr on the compaative costs I've done.

I don't mind spending $300 or so.

For $300, you could buy a Trojan 100AmpHr deep discharge battery, a
small luggage trolley to cart it around on and probably a trickle charge
batter charge (not good if you want an ovrnight recharge)

Not compact, weighs about 30kg, but would probably give you 5 to 10
hours usage each day, depending on actual current draw.

If I can't get the amp modified to run on DC, that sounds like the only
option.

Well, one that runs directly off the battery would be best as you are
saving the losses of converting 12V to 240V, then back down again inside
the amp.

I ran into a busker in Melbourne who similar amp. He was running it off of
some special little battery that he said was used by scuba divers, going
through an inverter. It was tiny! Do you have any idea what kind of battery
that would be?

No idea, but I'll bet it cost him a lot in replacement batteries. The
advantage of deep discharge lead acid batteries is that if treated
properly, they last a decade easily. The disadvantage is the weight and
the fact that they were ot designed to play ball games with.

Another approach might be to outline exactly what is wrong with each of
the amplifiers that you have tried and see what polite suggestions are
returned.

Oh, the problem with SLAs IMO is that they are just as heavy, if not
heavier and they are a lot more expensive than the same capacity in LADD
(based on the rpices I've been quoted).

 

[Phil Allison]

"Terryc"

a.busker wrote:

I don't mind spending $300 or so.

For $300, you could buy a Trojan 100AmpHr deep discharge battery, a small
luggage trolley to cart it around on and probably a trickle charge batter
charge (not good if you want an ovrnight recharge)

Not compact, weighs about 30kg, but would probably give you 5 to 10 hours
usage each day, depending on actual current draw.

** The current draw is gonna be a couple of amps - ie about 25 watts
average.

Yo have to know all about guitar amps to understand why this is so.

You don't - I do.

So a 10AH battery will run for 50 hours = MASSIVE OVERKILL.

A 12 to 15AH SLA is all the OP really needs.




....... Phil

 

[Terryc]

Phil Allison wrote:

You don't - I do.

First part I'll admit is true. My voice, if busking would earn zilch.

So a 10AH battery will run for 50 hours = MASSIVE OVERKILL.

A 12 to 15AH SLA is all the OP really needs.

So he could pick up an 18/20AmpHr (6Kg) SLA, so long as he didn't need
overnight charging, from Jaycar, or supercheap auto or places like that.

 

[Phil Allison]

"Phil Allison"


Correction:

So a 100AH battery will run for 50 hours = MASSIVE OVERKILL.

...... Phil

 

[-=Spudley=-]

Your best bet would be to ignore potty mouth, toaster boy Allison (That's
good advice at any time), go to an electronics store that stocks a range of
Sealed Lead Acid Batteries, take a look at their available batteries for
both size and capacity and purchase what you think will suit your situation
best

Better advice would be to kill file that drip Allison, right now.

Phil Allison wrote:

"a.busker"

( Snip totally asinine bullshit from the Spud head fuckwit )


What's the most compact battery I can get? I don't mind spending
$300 or so.

** You're a PITA idiot.

An SLA or auto battery is the answer.


I ran into a busker in Melbourne who similar amp. He was running it
off of some special little battery that he said was used by scuba
divers, going through an inverter. It was tiny!


** So fucking what ?

You do not need tiny nor the troubles that go with it being tiny.


Do you have any idea what kind of battery
that would be?


** Could be lithium polymer = lotsa trouble just waiting to happen

Forget it - wanker.


...... Phil


Is my only option, therefore, to carry around a big car battery
and an inverter?


** You can get fairly small car batteries - or chose from a wide
range of SLA batteries that are not too heavy to carry about. The
inverter you would need to deliver 60 watts max is tiny.

Stop being a whining twat, check out the 12 volt battery situation
and pick one that suits - then you can run most any small SS amp
you like.


..... Phil

 

[Phil Allison]

"Terryc"

Phil Allison wrote:

** The current draw is gonna be a couple of amps - ie about 25 watts
average.

You have to know all about guitar amps to understand why this is so.

You don't - I do.

First part I'll admit is true. My voice, if busking would earn zilch.

** NEVER snip the entire context and post drivel that has no relation to
it.

Read what was actually written too - you TENTH WIT .

So he could pick up an 18/20AmpHr (6Kg) SLA, so long as he didn't need
overnight charging, from Jaycar, or supercheap auto or places like that.

** Yep.



....... Phil

 

[Terryc]

Phil Allison wrote:

So a 10AH battery will run for 50 hours = MASSIVE OVERKILL.

Gee Phil,
So, I'm a 1/10th wit am I. Perhaps you might like to apologise for
getting this bit wrong. hint maximum recommended dischargeod deep
dischare lead acid batteries are 50%, so it is goingto be 25hours+, but
no where near 50 hours. The discharge curve isn't that non-linear.

 

[Terryc]

a.busker wrote:

Is it the sort of thing that's plausible though? What kind of technical
difficulties are there in getting an converted to run on DC? I wouldn't
have the faintest idea.

If it already runs on 12v none, or if it as a regulator that will
regulate 12V down to whatever voltage it needs, then again no problemas
all you need to do is work out where to patch the power supply in.

OTOH, if it runs +/- 12V, then you need a slightly bit more complicated
bit of circuitry.

Part of the problem also for learners is that lots of stuff/bits does
1amp okay, but you need to built slightly more robust and complicated
stuff if you need higher amperage, or pay a bit more.


My 2c on the muddy sound might be that it is something beyond the
control of electronics, just like computers do not solve social problems.

But the only real problem with either the Compact or the AC-60, is the issue
of having to carry around a big stupid battery and inverter, because you're
losing power converting DC to AC, and then back again. It's just
inefficient, labor intensive, and wrong.

Lol, life is full of trade offs.
Many of us think that filling landfill with perfectly repairable
electronic equipment is wrong, but when new replacement stuff is so
cheap, there is no way anyone can do anything and make a living.
>

 

[Phil Allison]

"Terryc"

** NEVER snip the entire context and post drivel that has no relation to
it.

Read what was actually written too - you TENTH WIT .

So a 10AH battery will run for 50 hours = MASSIVE OVERKILL.

Gee Phil,
So, I'm a 1/10th wit am I.

** Yep.

Plus a fucking shit head - too.



...... Phil

 

[Phil Allison]

"Terrycunt"

( snip mors mind numbing, fuckwit verbal diarrhoea )


** For fuck's saaaaaaake !!!!

PISS OFF you

BLOODY IMBECILE



........ Phil

 

[ian field]

"Phil Allison" <philallison@tpg.com.au> wrote in message
news:66sttdF2lul3dU1@mid.individual.net...

"a.busker" <sillyemail@nowhere.com

Is my only option, therefore, to carry around a big car battery and an
inverter?


** You can get fairly small car batteries - or chose from a wide range
of SLA batteries that are not too heavy to carry about. The inverter you
would need to deliver 60 watts max is tiny.

Stop being a whining twat, check out the 12 volt battery situation and
pick one that suits - then you can run most any small SS amp you like.



..... Phil

Motorcycle batteries tend to be a bit cheaper than SLAs, they're not 100%
spill proof however, although the only place they can spill from is the
breather pipe - cut the pipe just short of the height of the battery and use
a rubber band to fix a small plastic bag full of bogroll.

 

[qmod]

Saab C900 Viggenist wrote:

the_dawggie <the_dawggie@hotmail.com> writes:

David Z wrote:
Was behind a Falcon today and noticed the tail-lights had an interesting
pattern. Instead of a bulb or bulbs, there were lots and lots of little
bright dots arranged in a circular pattern (picture rings around a
planet to get an idea). Although the BA/BF "shape" has been around
since '02, I've never really noticed it until now. Are these actually
LED tail-lights and if so, were they a recent addition or have they
always been there? I think it was a base XT model too.

All sorts of aftermarket products are available ...

And LED replacement lights are really good for reducing energy usage (which
means less current draw in wiring, etc.), and there are numerous ways to
arrange the light output from an array of LED's to make them give the same
or better distribution/spread/whatever compared to using grossly-inefficient
filament lamps.

Just be careful using no-name cheapy Asian LED lights unless they're
fully-tested first - I've had some do bad things. In one case a
'festoon-style' 9-LED lamp caught fire when the electronics on the tiny PCB
in the lamp body overloaded. It was in a number plate light on the back of
the car fortunately and I didn't know until the next night when I noticed
the light had stopped working. You can see pics of this on my LED lighting
project page at:

http://lios.apana.org.au/~c900/relighting.html

But other than that, pretty much all the experiences with LED lighting in my
cars has been positive. Modern vehicles are starting to appear more and more
with LED lighting as standard so that's a good thing since it helps to
offset all the extra electrical load resulting from the additional gadgets
and engine control devices.

Craig.
I found the type of LED's you show on your page for tail lights to be

not really adequate. all the LED's are all pointing in the one
direction, If the LED's are pointing to the rear then no light is
actually hitting the reflectors in the mounting, All you see from the
rear of the car is only the direct light from the LED itself.
There are other globes now made the have in addition to the normally
oriented LED's they have 3 or 4 rows mounted radially, allowing more
light to be reflected and spread over the whole assembly.

--
Laurie.
Registered Linux user # 468070

 

[Saab C900 Viggenist]

the_dawggie <the_dawggie@hotmail.com> writes:

David Z wrote:
Was behind a Falcon today and noticed the tail-lights had an interesting
pattern. Instead of a bulb or bulbs, there were lots and lots of little
bright dots arranged in a circular pattern (picture rings around a
planet to get an idea). Although the BA/BF "shape" has been around
since '02, I've never really noticed it until now. Are these actually
LED tail-lights and if so, were they a recent addition or have they
always been there? I think it was a base XT model too.

All sorts of aftermarket products are available ...

And LED replacement lights are really good for reducing energy usage (which
means less current draw in wiring, etc.), and there are numerous ways to
arrange the light output from an array of LED's to make them give the same
or better distribution/spread/whatever compared to using grossly-inefficient
filament lamps.

Just be careful using no-name cheapy Asian LED lights unless they're
fully-tested first - I've had some do bad things. In one case a
'festoon-style' 9-LED lamp caught fire when the electronics on the tiny PCB
in the lamp body overloaded. It was in a number plate light on the back of
the car fortunately and I didn't know until the next night when I noticed
the light had stopped working. You can see pics of this on my LED lighting
project page at:

http://lios.apana.org.au/~c900/relighting.html

But other than that, pretty much all the experiences with LED lighting in my
cars has been positive. Modern vehicles are starting to appear more and more
with LED lighting as standard so that's a good thing since it helps to
offset all the extra electrical load resulting from the additional gadgets
and engine control devices.

Craig.
--
Craig's Saab C900 Page at | Craig's Classic Saab Workshop - Sydney .au
http://lios.apana.org.au/~c900 | http://www.classicsaab.net and other URL's
Email: c900@lios.apana.org.au | For Saab 99/C900/9000 Enthusiasts World-Wide!
Alternate: saabonaut@gmail.com | Web-forums, galleries, library, links, etc.

 

[jackbadger56]

On Apr 24, 8:36 am, Saab C900 Viggenist <c...@lios.apana.org.au>
wrote:

the_dawggie <the_dawg...@hotmail.com> writes:
David Z wrote:
Was behind a Falcon today and noticed the tail-lights had an interesting
pattern. Instead of a bulb or bulbs, there were lots and lots of little
bright dots arranged in a circular pattern (picture rings around a
planet to get an idea). Although the BA/BF "shape" has been around
since '02, I've never really noticed it until now. Are these actually
LED tail-lights and if so, were they a recent addition or have they
always been there? I think it was a base XT model too.
All sorts of aftermarket products are available ...

And LED replacement lights are really good for reducing energy usage (which
means less current draw in wiring, etc.), and there are numerous ways to
arrange the light output from an array of LED's to make them give the same
or better distribution/spread/whatever compared to using grossly-inefficient
filament lamps.

Just be careful using no-name cheapy Asian LED lights unless they're
fully-tested first - I've had some do bad things. In one case a
'festoon-style' 9-LED lamp caught fire when the electronics on the tiny PCB
in the lamp body overloaded. It was in a number plate light on the back of
the car fortunately and I didn't know until the next night when I noticed
the light had stopped working. You can see pics of this on my LED lighting
project page at:

http://lios.apana.org.au/~c900/relighting.html

I like how you set the relays on the dash for the
photos............how many have you lost down those cracks? ;-p

[[I really shouldn't talk!]]

But other than that, pretty much all the experiences with LED lighting in my
cars has been positive. Modern vehicles are starting to appear more and more
with LED lighting as standard so that's a good thing since it helps to
offset all the extra electrical load resulting from the additional gadgets
and engine control devices.

Craig.
--
Craig's Saab C900 Page at | Craig's Classic Saab Workshop - Sydney .auhttp://lios.apana.org.au/~c900|http://www.classicsaab.netand other URL's
Email: c...@lios.apana.org.au | For Saab 99/C900/9000 Enthusiasts World-Wide!
Alternate: saabon...@gmail.com | Web-forums, galleries, library, links, etc.

 

[Saab C900 Viggenist]

qmod <qmod@internode.off.net> writes:

Saab C900 Viggenist wrote:
the_dawggie <the_dawggie@hotmail.com> writes:

David Z wrote:
Was behind a Falcon today and noticed the tail-lights had an interesting
pattern. Instead of a bulb or bulbs, there were lots and lots of little
bright dots arranged in a circular pattern (picture rings around a
planet to get an idea). Although the BA/BF "shape" has been around
since '02, I've never really noticed it until now. Are these actually
LED tail-lights and if so, were they a recent addition or have they
always been there? I think it was a base XT model too.

All sorts of aftermarket products are available ...

And LED replacement lights are really good for reducing energy usage (which
means less current draw in wiring, etc.), and there are numerous ways to
arrange the light output from an array of LED's to make them give the same
or better distribution/spread/whatever compared to using grossly-inefficient
filament lamps.

Just be careful using no-name cheapy Asian LED lights unless they're
fully-tested first - I've had some do bad things. In one case a
'festoon-style' 9-LED lamp caught fire when the electronics on the tiny PCB
in the lamp body overloaded. It was in a number plate light on the back of
the car fortunately and I didn't know until the next night when I noticed
the light had stopped working. You can see pics of this on my LED lighting
project page at:

http://lios.apana.org.au/~c900/relighting.html

But other than that, pretty much all the experiences with LED lighting in my
cars has been positive. Modern vehicles are starting to appear more and more
with LED lighting as standard so that's a good thing since it helps to
offset all the extra electrical load resulting from the additional gadgets
and engine control devices.

Craig.
I found the type of LED's you show on your page for tail lights to be
not really adequate. all the LED's are all pointing in the one
direction, If the LED's are pointing to the rear then no light is
actually hitting the reflectors in the mounting, All you see from the
rear of the car is only the direct light from the LED itself.
There are other globes now made the have in addition to the normally
oriented LED's they have 3 or 4 rows mounted radially, allowing more
light to be reflected and spread over the whole assembly.

They're the ones I use now for tail lights and front corner/indicator
lights, for exactly the reason you stated. The early designs didn't have
additional boards under the main one with LED's pointing out radially from
the sides. There are a bunch of new designs out there now which have all the
LEDs in the array set up pointing out radially but I haven't tried any of
them out as yet.

Craig.
--
Craig's Saab C900 Page at | Craig's Classic Saab Workshop - Sydney .au
http://lios.apana.org.au/~c900 | http://www.classicsaab.net and other URL's
Email: c900@lios.apana.org.au | For Saab 99/C900/9000 Enthusiasts World-Wide!
Alternate: saabonaut@gmail.com | Web-forums, galleries, library, links, etc.

 

[Bugalugs]

Saab C900 Viggenist wrote:

qmod <qmod@internode.off.net> writes:

Saab C900 Viggenist wrote:
the_dawggie <the_dawggie@hotmail.com> writes:

David Z wrote:
Was behind a Falcon today and noticed the tail-lights had an interesting
pattern. Instead of a bulb or bulbs, there were lots and lots of little
bright dots arranged in a circular pattern (picture rings around a
planet to get an idea). Although the BA/BF "shape" has been around
since '02, I've never really noticed it until now. Are these actually
LED tail-lights and if so, were they a recent addition or have they
always been there? I think it was a base XT model too.
All sorts of aftermarket products are available ...
And LED replacement lights are really good for reducing energy usage (which
means less current draw in wiring, etc.), and there are numerous ways to
arrange the light output from an array of LED's to make them give the same
or better distribution/spread/whatever compared to using grossly-inefficient
filament lamps.

Just be careful using no-name cheapy Asian LED lights unless they're
fully-tested first - I've had some do bad things. In one case a
'festoon-style' 9-LED lamp caught fire when the electronics on the tiny PCB
in the lamp body overloaded. It was in a number plate light on the back of
the car fortunately and I didn't know until the next night when I noticed
the light had stopped working. You can see pics of this on my LED lighting
project page at:

http://lios.apana.org.au/~c900/relighting.html

But other than that, pretty much all the experiences with LED lighting in my
cars has been positive. Modern vehicles are starting to appear more and more
with LED lighting as standard so that's a good thing since it helps to
offset all the extra electrical load resulting from the additional gadgets
and engine control devices.

Craig.
I found the type of LED's you show on your page for tail lights to be
not really adequate. all the LED's are all pointing in the one
direction, If the LED's are pointing to the rear then no light is
actually hitting the reflectors in the mounting, All you see from the
rear of the car is only the direct light from the LED itself.
There are other globes now made the have in addition to the normally
oriented LED's they have 3 or 4 rows mounted radially, allowing more
light to be reflected and spread over the whole assembly.

They're the ones I use now for tail lights and front corner/indicator
lights, for exactly the reason you stated. The early designs didn't have
additional boards under the main one with LED's pointing out radially from
the sides. There are a bunch of new designs out there now which have all the
LEDs in the array set up pointing out radially but I haven't tried any of
them out as yet.

Craig.

Did the replacing of the interior light solve the original problem ??

Can you now leave the door ajar for a week and still start the car ??

I have on a couple of occasions left the door ajar and drained down the
main battery, and the immobiliser is set, and it flattens the alarm
batteries, and the charger wont bring it back up, and, and..., and...,
and there is lots of swearing, and I have only got access to 1 vehicle.

You know why I'm asking :&gt

 

[Trevor Wilson]

"Saab C900 Viggenist" <c900@lios.apana.org.au> wrote in message
news:fuodkt$5dv$1@yoda.apana.org.au...

the_dawggie <the_dawggie@hotmail.com> writes:

David Z wrote:
Was behind a Falcon today and noticed the tail-lights had an interesting
pattern. Instead of a bulb or bulbs, there were lots and lots of little
bright dots arranged in a circular pattern (picture rings around a
planet to get an idea). Although the BA/BF "shape" has been around
since '02, I've never really noticed it until now. Are these actually
LED tail-lights and if so, were they a recent addition or have they
always been there? I think it was a base XT model too.

All sorts of aftermarket products are available ...

And LED replacement lights are really good for reducing energy usage
(which
means less current draw in wiring, etc.),

**Not so much. UNLESS you are using the very latest and very expensive LEDs,
typical high efficiency white LEDs are approximately as efficient as
halogens. The big problem, of course, is operating temperature. LEDs cannot
be allowed to exceed 150oC. As a consequence, high power LEDs need big heat
sinks. Red LEDs are a different matter. They are, typically, more efficient
than regular incandescent and slightly more efficient than halogens (which
are rarely used in tail light applications). The reason, of course, is that
they only need to produce light at one set of wavelengths, whilst
incandescents need to produce light at all visible wavelengths. However,
that does not tell the whole story. Unless you are using multiple LEDs,
there will be wasted energy in Voltage conversion systems (usually, just
resistors) with LEDs. Additionally, unless you are using something like a
Luxeom emitter, the radiation pattern of the LEDs will be poor, to average.
Typically, less than 30o. Incadescents, of course, radiate a full 360o.

and there are numerous ways to

arrange the light output from an array of LED's to make them give the same
or better distribution/spread/whatever compared to using
grossly-inefficient
filament lamps.

**That would depend on the incandescnt and the LED. Howeer, if you want REAL
efficiency, dump LEDs and use decent discharge lamps. Those puppies are
seriously efficient.

Trevor Wilson

 

[Athol]

In aus.cars Trevor Wilson <trevor@_spamblock_rageaudio.com.au> wrote:

"Saab C900 Viggenist" <c900@lios.apana.org.au> wrote:

and there are numerous ways to
arrange the light output from an array of LED's to make them give the same
or better distribution/spread/whatever compared to using
grossly-inefficient
filament lamps.

**That would depend on the incandescnt and the LED. Howeer, if you want REAL
efficiency, dump LEDs and use decent discharge lamps. Those puppies are
seriously efficient.

None of these LED assemblies that replace a conventional globe comply with
the ADRs, ECE (European) or DOT (USA) regulations. In all cases, the light
source is intended to be a filament, the position of which is carefully
defined within the globe relative to the mounting base.

The lamp assembly is designed around the defined light source, ie light
emanating from a filament within a carefully defined envelope inside the
assembly. Fit something other than the correct model of globe and the lamp
assembly is assumed to not comply with the relevant regulations unless the
modified assembly (ie fitted with LED assembly = modified) is tested to the
standard again.

Similarly, placing discharge (HID) bulbs into housings intended for halogen
globes will not comply. The light source will not be emanating from the
correct position to be correctly focussed by the reflector and lens.

--
Athol
<http://cust.idl.com.au/athol> Linux Registered User # 254000
I'm a Libran Engineer. I don't argue, I discuss.