PRC as a amplifier in GPS question.

Phil Allison wrote:
"David L. Jones" <altzone@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:1139604154.913595.59380@g44g2000cwa.googlegroups.com...

Web based groups (and email) is very handy for those who often use
multiple machines.
I used to use a proper newsreader program and an email client but have
now switched entirely to web based and have never looked back. I can
freely move to any machine and have everything available.
Not as versatile in feature set as dedicated programs, but good enough,
and ohh so handy.



** Might as well go about wearing a hat with a propeller on top - as post
on usenet with "gmail" and "googlegroups" in the header.

Then Dave probably does.
Click to expand...
And your simpler and easier solution to running groups and email on
multiple machines in any location is?...

I use gmail as my usenet email contact now to avoid spam (and I get
almost none on that account, so gmail works well to avoid usenet spam).
My regular email runs on my own web server. I used to use an email
client but found it annoying that I couldn't access the inbox from
another machine, so now just leave it all on my web mail server. Nice
and convienient, can be accessed from anywhere.

Dave :)
 
"David L. Jones" <altzone@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:1139633038.629365.88750@f14g2000cwb.googlegroups.com...


** Might as well go about wearing a hat with a propeller on top - as post
on usenet with "gmail" and "googlegroups" in the header.

Then as dopey fuckwit like Dave probably does.

He needs the propeller for everything that goes right over his pointy head.




........ Phil
 
get a new timer.

"Steve Butler" <ksbutler@iinet.net.au> wrote in message
news:43ed5e81$0$3666$5a62ac22@per-qv1-newsreader-01.iinet.net.au...
Hi,

Anyone had experience with washer timers , model is a Whirlpool front
loader
AWM8121
wont drain/spin . Test sequence indicates control timer is at fault and i
was wondering if i should attempt to
repair timer or just buy new one.

Problem is occuring 90% of the time . it will work once in every ten or so
washes



Steve
Click to expand...
 
Phil Allison wrote:
"David L. Jones" <altzone@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:1139633038.629365.88750@f14g2000cwb.googlegroups.com...

** Might as well go about wearing a hat with a propeller on top - as post
on usenet with "gmail" and "googlegroups" in the header.

Then as dopey fuckwit like Dave probably does.

He needs the propeller for everything that goes right over his pointy head.

....... Phil
Click to expand...
Robin Williams said it best:
http://161.58.5.90/vietnam/bj.wav

Dave :)
 
I second that. Tried to fix one once - never again.
Spend the $30 for a new one and enjoy the 3 hours you just gained.

"crazy frog" <dingding@bumbadabum.com> wrote in message
news:43ed862b$0$32012$afc38c87@news.optusnet.com.au...
get a new timer.

"Steve Butler" <ksbutler@iinet.net.au> wrote in message
news:43ed5e81$0$3666$5a62ac22@per-qv1-newsreader-01.iinet.net.au...
Hi,

Anyone had experience with washer timers , model is a Whirlpool front
loader
AWM8121
wont drain/spin . Test sequence indicates control timer is at fault and i
was wondering if i should attempt to
repair timer or just buy new one.

Problem is occuring 90% of the time . it will work once in every ten or so
washes



Steve
Click to expand...
 
"GB" <g.b@sonicresearch.mailme.org> wrote in message
news:43ec6f9f$1@news.comindico.com.au...
"David L. Jones" <altzone@gmail.com> wrote in news:1139554935.686189.90750
@g47g2000cwa.googlegroups.com:
Cool. Give your faourite posters the thumbs up and your not so
favourite ones the thumbs down!

Who uses google groups?

(I'll answer that: Noobs who don't understand usenet, and who
think that "The Internet" is "The Web".)


GB
Click to expand...
You got it right there...
 
"Andrew M" <noone@home> wrote in message
news:43edc336$0$3647$5a62ac22@per-qv1-newsreader-01.iinet.net.au...
I second that. Tried to fix one once - never again.
Spend the $30 for a new one and enjoy the 3 hours you just gained.
Click to expand...
Where do you get them for $30 though? Last time I replaced one (ten years
ago), they were asking twice that from wholesaler. Four times as much from
manufacturer. Are there cheaper Chinese ones available now maybe?

MrT.
 
Peter Howard wrote:

I've just had a tiny triumph by resuscitating a small format ATX PC power
supply, mainly by replacing all the obviously bulged electros first, then
every other electro. All with mail order low-esr types. Fortunately, the
supply was all through hole construction, not SM. Would not have bothered
except that the small format supplies as found in many mini-tower boxes
are considerably more costly than a generic standard sized supply.
Anyway, I've become interested in electros and esr to the extent of buying
a Bob Parker MkII ESR meter kit, on special this month at Tricky
Dicks.Still being assembled.

Questions arise.
(1) I like to have a few dozen common electros on hand in the parts box.
All I can get locally is standard esr types. Anything to be said for
paying a little more and standardizing on low-esr types by mail-order? Is
a low-esr type necessarily better quality and longer lasting?

(2) From studying the RS and Farnell catalogues I notice that they have a
more limited range of low-esr types. For instance, the smallest 10uf type
I find is 25VW versus 16VW for "standard" type. What is the experts
practical experience of selecting working voltage? I Googled the topic and
I found little in the way of practical advice. For instance, if I want to
place a filter cap after a 12v 3term regulator, I'd probably choose one of
appropriate capacitance and 16VW. What about 25VW? Or 35VW or 63VW?
Obviously, I would not use a cap of 300VW as I think I understand that
choosing too high a VW won't permit the dielectric film to be maintained.
What I need is a practical rule-of-thumb.

(3) Lots of my parts box electros are small unsused bargain-bag types up
to 5 years old. Should I toss the lot or check them all with the ESR meter
and keep the ones that seem to have "normal" esr compared to a similar
factory fresh one? I also have a capacitance meter so any that are out of
tolerance will be tossed anyway.

(4) I like tantalum caps because they are small and colourful, though I
have read that they are less tolerant of voltage spikes than aluminium
electros. I tend to use them instead of small value electros. Any reason
why I should not?

PH
Click to expand...
Old electrolytic caps can become leaky, this means that if you connect them
to a DC power supply set to their rated voltage, some old ones will pass a
continuous leakage current, and if you're lucky the current will decay with
time to reach a small value. You can measure this by putting an ammeter in
series. (I prefer to put a 1k resistor in series with the cap, connected
to the power supply, with a DVM across the resistor. It is harder to blow
up a voltmeter than an ammeter. I put a shorting switch across the
resistor to help charge the cap quicker, though I still use a current
limited power supply to avoid overheating bad caps.) If the capacitor is
charged up on a regular basis (e.g. once a year) then it will be less
likely to become leaky.

If you have any stocks of large, expensive electorlytic caps, then I suggest
you gently charge them to full voltage from time to time. Put a resistor
in series so that they don't overheat if they are already a bit leaky.
Remember to discharge them (through a resistor please!) so that when you go
to put them into your circuit or back in your parts box, you don't blow up
any other components.

There was a long thread about the unreliability of tantalum caps on
sci.electronics.design last year. I suggest you look it up.

By the way, having built one of those Bob Parker ESR meters, I found that
the 105 degree caps seem to have a significantly higher ESR than 85 degree
C ones, so I have stopped my habit of automatically fitting the 105 degree
type when I repair things, because in some applications they would actually
perform worse.

Chris
 
"Chris Jones"
By the way, having built one of those Bob Parker ESR meters, I found that
the 105 degree caps seem to have a significantly higher ESR than 85 degree
C ones, so I have stopped my habit of automatically fitting the 105 degree
type when I repair things, because in some applications they would
actually
perform worse.
Click to expand...

** If electro caps are deteriorating and needing replacement - then it is
*odd on* they are operating in a hot environment. So 105 C types will
likely last much longer than the 85 C types.

Also be aware that the ESR of an electro goes DOWN when the cap gets hot -
by a factor of up to 5 times !!!



......... Phil
 
On Sat, 11 Feb 2006 20:25:59 +0000, Chris Jones
<lugnut808@nospam.yahoo.com> wrote:

SNIP
If you have any stocks of large, expensive electorlytic caps, then I suggest
you gently charge them to full voltage from time to time. Put a resistor
in series so that they don't overheat if they are already a bit leaky.
Remember to discharge them (through a resistor please!) so that when you go
to put them into your circuit or back in your parts box, you don't blow up
any other components.
Click to expand...
So I should individually form each of those hundreds of electro's I
have had in stock for 20 years or so? Shouldn't take too long to
do,should it?

I agree that it is a good idea that any electro which you are planning
to use and which has been stored for at least 5 years, should be first
tested, but you don't go around re-forming all capacitors in storage
as a matter of course.

RE-FORMING capacitors which have been in storage is only necessary
prior to use. Some manufacturers spec sheets recommend reforming is
not necessary unless they have been in storage for "a minimum 3 years"
but that is overkill and just playing safe on their part. I have
tested caps (Matsushita's are excellent) which have not seen a jot of
DC for more than 20 years and both their ESR and capacitance measured
nearly as as good as when brand new.
 
Phil Allison wrote:

"Chris Jones"

By the way, having built one of those Bob Parker ESR meters, I found that
the 105 degree caps seem to have a significantly higher ESR than 85
degree C ones, so I have stopped my habit of automatically fitting the
105 degree type when I repair things, because in some applications they
would actually
perform worse.



** If electro caps are deteriorating and needing replacement - then it
is
*odd on* they are operating in a hot environment. So 105 C types will
likely last much longer than the 85 C types.

Also be aware that the ESR of an electro goes DOWN when the cap gets hot
- by a factor of up to 5 times !!!



........ Phil
Click to expand...
The point I was making is that the ESR of the 105 degree types was several
times larger than that of the 85 degree type from the same manufacturer,
when I measured it. Therefore in some applications where ESR really
matters e.g. SMPS output, it is possible that after replacing the caps with
higher temperature types, the thing will not work as well as it would have
done if the 85 degree type had been used, and in the worst case, the 105
degree caps could heat up more than twice as much as the 85 degree type,
and could exceed 105 degrees in a situation where the 85 degree caps would
have stayed below 85 degrees C. If people read the maximum ripple current
spec of the caps when they replace them then they wouldn't have this
problem, but I was just pointing out that the higher temperature caps are
not universally better, some thinking can be required.

Chris
 
Is it a mechanical timer?
My old top loader had a mechanical timer. The springs that the contacts are
on can be bent slightly to give more contact pressure.
It is an interesting exercise.
John

"Mr.T" <MrT@home> wrote in message
news:43ede04c$0$14094$afc38c87@news.optusnet.com.au...
"Andrew M" <noone@home> wrote in message
news:43edc336$0$3647$5a62ac22@per-qv1-newsreader-01.iinet.net.au...
I second that. Tried to fix one once - never again.
Spend the $30 for a new one and enjoy the 3 hours you just gained.

Where do you get them for $30 though? Last time I replaced one (ten years
ago), they were asking twice that from wholesaler. Four times as much from
manufacturer. Are there cheaper Chinese ones available now maybe?

MrT.
Click to expand...
 
I am a bit wary of using old electrolytics. I usually buy what I need when I
need them. A bit of a pain at times I know.
Some electrolytics will last almost for ever, others not very long at all.

John
 
"Chris Jones"

I found that
the 105 degree caps seem to have a significantly higher ESR than 85 degree
C ones, so I have stopped my habit of automatically fitting the 105
degree...


** If electro caps are deteriorating and needing replacement - then it
is *odds on* they are operating in a hot environment. So 105 C types
will
likely last much longer than the 85 C types.

Also be aware that the ESR of an electro goes DOWN when the cap gets hot
- by a factor of up to 5 times !!!



The point I was making is that the ESR of the 105 degree types was several
times larger than that of the 85 degree type from the same manufacturer,
when I measured it.
Click to expand...

** Shame you did not say *that* before.

Kindly post the revalant info - ie cap maker, ratings, physical size &
actual ESR readings.

In many years of checking electros I have NOT come across anything like
your claim.



Therefore in some applications where ESR really
matters e.g. SMPS output, it is possible that after replacing the caps
with
higher temperature types, the thing will not work as well as it would have
done if the 85 degree type had been used, and in the worst case, the 105
degree caps could heat up more than twice as much as the 85 degree type,
and could exceed 105 degrees in a situation where the 85 degree caps would
have stayed below 85 degrees C.
Click to expand...

** You are making this all up as you go along.

Electros are not operated at such high temps in SMPSs.




............ Phil
 
On Sat, 11 Feb 2006 15:49:00 +1100, "Phil Allison"
<philallison@tpg.com.au> wrote:

"David L. Jones" <altzone@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:1139633038.629365.88750@f14g2000cwb.googlegroups.com...


** Might as well go about wearing a hat with a propeller on top - as post
on usenet with "gmail" and "googlegroups" in the header.

Then as dopey fuckwit like Dave probably does.

He needs the propeller for everything that goes right over his pointy head.




....... Phil
Click to expand...
Yawn.... Starting to sound like Rod Speed now.
 
"The Real Andy"



** Shame Andy has run out of public toilets to troll.

Maybe he will stalk the ones at the local Brisbane primary next.

Be more his intellectual level.




......... Phil
 
"The Real Andy" <will_get_back_to_you_on_This@> wrote in message
news:pse0v1ls44ca8m8o183u98ru79ji02b9dj@4ax.com...
On Sat, 11 Feb 2006 15:49:00 +1100, "Phil Allison"
philallison@tpg.com.au> wrote:


"David L. Jones" <altzone@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:1139633038.629365.88750@f14g2000cwb.googlegroups.com...


** Might as well go about wearing a hat with a propeller on top - as
post
on usenet with "gmail" and "googlegroups" in the header.

Then as dopey fuckwit like Dave probably does.

He needs the propeller for everything that goes right over his pointy
head.




....... Phil


Yawn.... Starting to sound like Rod Speed now.
Click to expand...
Yep, he sure is. Cut 'n' pasting the same inane drivel from thread to
thread and group to group.
All the hallmarks of his bum buddy Roddly Doddly.....
 
On Mon, 13 Feb 2006 20:29:24 +1100, "Phil Allison"
<philallison@tpg.com.au> wrote:

"The Real Andy"



** Shame Andy has run out of public toilets to troll.

Maybe he will stalk the ones at the local primary next.





........ Phil
Click to expand...
You are a sad pathetic fuckwit Allison, when will you come up with
some new lines? The old ones are becoming a bit tired now.

Yawn...
 
"The Real Andy"



** Shame Andrew Pearson has run out of public toilets to troll.

Maybe he will stalk the ones at the local Brisbane primary next.





......... Phil
 
"abubeker"
hello friends
is there any body who has any ideas about an ic
with labling.
N MALAYSIA
C 1213C
8848N
Click to expand...


** If it has 8 pins it might be one of these:

http://www.datasheetarchive.com/semiconductors/specsheet.php?specsheet=2197051







......... Phil
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Welcome to EDABoard.com

Sponsor

Back
Top