PRC as a amplifier in GPS question.

[What The]

lol! phones, why did I think of that!

ended up the board still dead after replacing caps, off to the dumpster it
goes.


Cheers.


"Phil Allison" <philallison@tpg.com.au> wrote in message
news:43uijfF1p7hbgU1@individual.net...

"What The"

I know that RS is somewhere out near smithfield, unless that's just a
warehouse, and Farnell being at Chester Hill is a fair drive, but i think
WES as suggested by Phil Allison is probably closest to me. If they're out
of stock thats my bad luck, but won't know until i go.



** WES are very much up to date.

They now even have TELEPHONES !!!!

(02) 9797 9866





....... Phil

 

[What The]

lol! phones, why didn't I think of that!

ended up the board still dead after replacing caps, off to the dumpster it
goes.


Cheers.


"Phil Allison" <philallison@tpg.com.au> wrote in message
news:43uijfF1p7hbgU1@individual.net...

"What The"

I know that RS is somewhere out near smithfield, unless that's just a
warehouse, and Farnell being at Chester Hill is a fair drive, but i think
WES as suggested by Phil Allison is probably closest to me. If they're out
of stock thats my bad luck, but won't know until i go.



** WES are very much up to date.

They now even have TELEPHONES !!!!

(02) 9797 9866





....... Phil

 

[David L. Jones]

Rick Measham wrote:

In another thread David L. Jones wrote:
... and never have to change input
modes on the TV again.

Speaking of this, we've just installed Foxtel IQ and watch all TV
through that. However our Teac 80cm TV always defaults to the last
*tuner* channel we watched.

Does anyone know if it's possible to convince this cheapo TV to 'boot'
into AV1 every time?

Don't know, but if you are keen enough you could build a circuit which
detects the mains current being switched on and then triggers a micro
or PICAXE to drive an IR transmitter and send the remote code to switch
the TV to AV1. That's if you use the power switch.

If you use the remote to turn the TV on/off then maybe you could get
one of those fancy macro remotes that lets you send both commands with
the one switch. Or once again, build your own remote to do so.

Dave

 

[Rick Measham]

Rick Measham wrote:

The model number in on the back of this thing .. it's huge and heavy
I'll get it if it really matters, but the TV is about 6 years old .. I
doubt TEAC change their 'software' too often.

From looking on TEAC's website, the closest they still list in the
manuals section would be the CTM807SV .. but it has fewer AV inputs.

The manual gives no clue as to only ever using these AV inputs on boot.

Cheers!
Rick Measham

 

[Tom Smyth]

"Rick Measham" <maildump@isite.net.au> wrote in message
news:43de806f$1_9@news.peopletelecom.com.au...

In another thread David L. Jones wrote:
... and never have to change input
modes on the TV again.

Speaking of this, we've just installed Foxtel IQ and watch all TV through
that. However our Teac 80cm TV always defaults to the last *tuner* channel
we watched.

Does anyone know if it's possible to convince this cheapo TV to 'boot'
into AV1 every time?

The model number in on the back of this thing .. it's huge and heavy I'll
get it if it really matters, but the TV is about 6 years old .. I doubt
TEAC change their 'software' too often.

If IQ has SCART use that and you'll be able to turn the TV on and off via
IQ.

 

[Falkon]

Alex <aasp1967@bigpond.net.au> (who is about to get a shit load of spam)
wrote:

why is that the majority of people who reply or post messages aren't
game enough or have the guts to use their correct email addresses or
contact details.
Because sane people don't want their email address harvested by spammers.
but they are all big and brave to post or reply when
nobody can contact them.if you have got nothing worth saying then SHUT
THE FUCK UP.
And if you don't know how to post in plain text then .......
thanks
Alex

 

[Allan]

"Alex" <aasp1967@bigpond.net.au> wrote in message
news:slzDf.231746$V7.218540@news-server.bigpond.net.au...
DUAL SIM CARDS

Australia



TWO PHONE NUMBERS ON THE ONE MOBILE PHONE.



No need to carry two phones or change sim cards.

Keep your existing phone, phone number/s & sim card/s



a.. No need to turn phone on / off to access other number as in "previous
model" dual sim holders.
b.. No need to cut your sim card/s to fit as in "previous models".
c.. Use either "line 1 or line 2" on your phone. 2 SEPARATE LINES.
d.. Dual Sim card holder will fit "most" mobile phones.
e.. Dual Sim Menu allows you to personalise settings.
f.. One number for work / business keep the other private.
g.. Easily installed in minutes.
For sales & general enquiriesContact

dualsim@bigpond.net.au



$30.00

+ $3.95 P/H



Buy 3 or more & Save

Wes have these,
and STOP using HTML in a newsgroup

 

[Rick Measham]

Tom Smyth wrote:

If IQ has SCART use that and you'll be able to turn the TV on and off via
IQ.

Oooh .. I have SCART out of the IQ .. and the TV has SCART .. but it's
using an adapter as the Foxtel supplied cables have RCAs. You're
suggesting that if I get a SCART/SCART cable, then some action with the
IQ will turn on the TV and request the SCART point?

I'll have to go read the manual .. sounds perfect

Cheers!
Rick Measham

 

[Adrian Jansen]

Falkon wrote:

Hi All

I am looking for a motion sensor that simply plugs into to the bayonet
fitting of an existing light.
Sort of like this product:

http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=PS4074&CATID=21&keywords=&SPECIAL=&form=CAT&ProdCodeOnly=&Keyword1=&Keyword2=&pageNumber=&priceMin=&priceMax=&SUBCATID=498

or http://tinyurl.com/c87ck
but with a motion sensor as well as a light sensor.

Any ideas if such a product exists and, if yes, where I can find it?

I know there are night lights (that plug into an electrical socket) that
perform the same function but they aren't bright enough for my needs.

Cheers

Falkon
Arlec ( and others ) make PIR sensor lights for outside security lights,

with a bayonet fitting for direct plugging to existing fittings.
Remove the lights and plug in some other compatible appliance.
Most hardware stores carry them.


--
Regards,

Adrian Jansen adrianjansen at internode dot on dot net
Design Engineer J & K Micro Systems
Microcomputer solutions for industrial control
Note reply address is invalid, convert address above to machine form.

 

[Chris Jones]

Lord-Data wrote:

Oops, meant to include a photo of it:



http://www.vidguide.com/modules.php?full=1&set_albumName=Misc-Gallery&id=ebay_048&op=modload&name=gallery&file=index&include=view_photo.php


"Lord-Data" <data@ihug.com.au> wrote in message

news:43def601$0$17812$61c65585@un-2park-reader-01.sydney.pipenetworks.com.au...
Recieved a back-lit item today that is all well and good, but on looking
inside it (the PCB was loose and rattlin, had to re-secure) I found a
rather curious white light tube .. Dunno if its CCFL or Fluro, just
wondering if anyone knows a source for similar tubes to these and their
driver circuits? And even a possible cost? Curious into looking into
making my own signs like the one I recieved today



Seems to have four wires to the tube which would make it an ordinary fluoro

with an electronic ballast. It would have two wires to the tube if it were
cold cathode, I think. The circuitry inside a compact fluorescent lamp is
similar to what's in your photo. The circuit board from an Osram compact
fluorescent that I accidentally smashed can run a normal fluorescent lamp
quite nicely, though it would not be a good idea to sell something like
that because it would be difficult to ensure that it complies with the
safety regulations in its modified form. You could buy something like an
Osram Quicktronic ballast they seem very good but quite expensive (except
on ebay where they might be the opposite on both counts).

Chris

 

[Alex]

i have always used my right details and i dont have any problems with spam
"Alex" <aasp1967@bigpond.net.au> wrote in message news:lVCDf.231923$V7.13349@news-server.bigpond.net.au...
why is that the majority of people who reply or post messages aren't game enough or have the guts to use their correct email addresses or contact details.but they are all big and brave to post or reply when nobody can contact them.if you have got nothing worth saying then SHUT THE FUCK UP.
thanks
Alex

 

[Tom Smyth]

"Rick Measham" <maildump@isite.net.au> wrote in message
news:43DFD5C5.5060809@isite.net.au...

Tom Smyth wrote:
If IQ has SCART use that and you'll be able to turn the TV on and off via
IQ.

Oooh .. I have SCART out of the IQ .. and the TV has SCART .. but it's
using an adapter as the Foxtel supplied cables have RCAs. You're
suggesting that if I get a SCART/SCART cable, then some action with the IQ
will turn on the TV and request the SCART point?

I'll have to go read the manual .. sounds perfect

I have a Teac set top box and an RCA/Thomson TV connected via SCART.

If the TV is off (switched off via the remote) when I turn on the set top
box the TV will power up and select the SCART input.

If the TV is already on switches to SCART input.

You'll also get a better picture than RCA cables, but I can't guarantee that
the above will always work on all TVs. Having said that it doesn't appear to
be a "special feature" or anything.

 

[Phil Allison]

"Fonz"

Hi All.
Can anyone out there help me with a low noise 1W amplifier chip/circuit.
I am currently using an LM386, and a TDA70?? (sorry I haven't got it with
me), with less than ideal reults. The hiss is driving me nuts, as I'm
using headphones and I high gain setting (between 20 & 200).
Many thanks in advance
Rob

** What is the signal source being used ?

There should be no audible hiss with the input to the LM386 disconnected &
grounded.

What are the headphones - ie make model and impedance.



........ Phil

 

[Phil Allison]

"Fonz"

Hi All.
I am using the 555 timer for a basic circuit. I am using the circuit in
the back of the Dick Smith catalogue Can anyone help me with the values of
the Cap and resister. The time I want is 2 minute (120sec) +- 10 seconds.
I have tried various values, but it is unreliable, and on most occasions
stays on for a long time, and I can't wait that long and normally manually
reset it. If someone can give me the right values, then I may be able to
see if the time problem is somewhere else in the circuit.
Thanks in advance for any replies.
Rob

** Lemme guess - you have 2.2 Mohm resistor and a 100 uF electro cap ??

Forget it.

The cap has as much resistance (leakage) as the resistor so never charges up
fully.

SOLUTION:

Get say three *tantalum" caps 10 uF, 25 volt, & use them in parallel with a
3.3 Mohm feed resistor.

This will give about 70 - 80 seconds delay.

Then put a 10 kohm trim pot from pin 5 to the + supply and adjust to get the
exact time you want by adjusting the comparator trip voltage.




........ Phil

 

[Mark Harriss]

Alex wrote:

i have always used my right details and i dont have any problems with spam

"Alex" <aasp1967@bigpond.net.au <mailto:aasp1967@bigpond.net.au
wrote in message
news:lVCDf.231923$V7.13349@news-server.bigpond.net.au...
why is that the majority of people who reply or post messages aren't
game enough or have the guts to use their correct email addresses or
contact details.but they are all big and brave to post or reply when
nobody can contact them.if you have got nothing worth saying then
SHUT THE FUCK UP.
thanks
Alex

Maybe they can know a dickhead when they see one.

 

[Jasen Betts]

On 2006-01-31, Lord-Data <data@ihug.com.au> wrote:

"Lord-Data" <data@ihug.com.au> wrote in message
news:43def601$0$17812$61c65585@un-2park-reader-01.sydney.pipenetworks.com.au...
Recieved a back-lit item today that is all well and good, but on looking
inside it (the PCB was loose and rattlin, had to re-secure) I found a
rather curious white light tube .. Dunno if its CCFL or Fluro, just
wondering if anyone knows a source for similar tubes to these and their
driver circuits? And even a possible cost? Curious into looking into
making my own signs like the one I recieved today

Looks like a fairly ordinary ring-shaped fluoro. except this one is oval
shaped... If you take it to a lighting place they can probably source
some more like it.

Bye.
Jasen

 

[Rod Out Back]

On Wed, 01 Feb 2006 18:15:11 +0800, frozenyogurt
<frozenyogurt@nospam_pleaseiinet.net.au> wrote:

Hi,
With our UR which cost $40, i have to re-enter the codes for all 5
video/audio components everytime the batteries go flat or i change them.

I was wondering if there is a UR which holds the settings if this
occurs? If there is one, how much do i need to spend?

thanks.

I have a Kameleon remote that I bought at Harvey Norman. Thankfully,
it keeps the settings when the battery goes flat. Given we get about
3 weeks out of a charge of batteries, I'm bloody glad about that...

Cost about $150, and does everything in the way of A/V gear, including
satellite. Given it reduced our remote collection from 6 to 1, I think
it was worth it...


Cheers,

Rod.....Out Back

 

[Jasen Betts]

On 2006-02-01, Fonz <r@removeme.com.au> wrote:

Hi All.
I am using the 555 timer for a basic circuit. I am using the circuit in the
back of the Dick Smith catalogue Can anyone help me with the values of the
Cap and resister. The time I want is 2 minute (120sec) +- 10 seconds. I
have tried various values, but it is unreliable, and on most occasions stays
on for a long time, and I can't wait that long and normally manually reset
it. If someone can give me the right values, then I may be able to see if
the time problem is somewhere else in the circuit.
Thanks in advance for any replies.
Rob
Melbourne.

555 is not suitable for 2 minutes, try 4060 instead.

--

Bye.
Jasen

 

[GB]

"Alex" <aasp1967@bigpond.net.au> wrote in
news:JLSDf.232505$V7.18755@news-server.bigpond.net.au:

i have always used my right details and i dont have any problems with
spam

The spammers know that you don't have a penis and recognise the
folly in offering you opportunities for enlargement.

GB

 

[Phil Allison]

"Jasen Betts" <jasen@free.net.nz>
Fonz

Hi All.
I am using the 555 timer for a basic circuit. I am using the circuit in
the
back of the Dick Smith catalogue Can anyone help me with the values of
the
Cap and resister. The time I want is 2 minute (120sec) +- 10 seconds. I
have tried various values, but it is unreliable, and on most occasions
stays
on for a long time, and I can't wait that long and normally manually
reset
it. If someone can give me the right values, then I may be able to see
if
the time problem is somewhere else in the circuit.
Thanks in advance for any replies.
Rob
Melbourne.

555 is not suitable for 2 minutes, try 4060 instead.

** It is for the OP's spec - you fuckwit, sheep shagger.




......... Phil