PRC as a amplifier in GPS question.

I tried out a Destinator ND briefly. Apparently Destinator have the
best maps in general, but they need to work out some kinks...


- It invited me to do a U-turn on a freeway.

- Asked me to turn right in the Burnley tunnel (it's a straight line!
It probably got confused with the road above.)

- It gives instructions for intersections that are some distance ahead
(it once told me that I had to turn left at a roundabout that was 3km
ahead. It also yaps on at 500m and 200m which I think is more than
sufficient.)

- Battery life is so severely limited that it's almost useless. It
doesn't last more than 5 minutes out of the car. I thought it was a
faulty battery but others have reported this also.

- Complains I'm over the speed limit when I'm doing 80km/hr on a
freeway onramp.

- Told me to turn right into a road... that was blocked by a locked
gate and a nasty warning sign about trespassing on federal airport
property.

- Does some odd route calculations, in suburbia it tended to prefer
weaving around back streets rather than sticking to the main roads. The
former may have less DISTANCE than the latter, but because of all the
turns, roundabouts, lower speed limits etc it takes LONGER.

- Blinking red and blue lights on each side of the unit make my car
look like an unmarked police vehicle any time I need to turn (these can
be disabled :) )


On the plus side, I did like that it was fairly flexible with route
recalculation. I could ignore an instruction and it would figure out a
new way that usually fitted in with what I wanted to do, rather than
trying to guide me back onto the route it had previously chosen. This
was handy as I tended to tune out when I was in my local area, I know
it better than a computer. :)

Anyway, my brief experience with this product is apparently typical of
the current generation of GPS navigators. They are not yet ready for
general "hands off" public consumption. If you can live with the quirks
and not rely 100% on it then you'll be right. Just make sure you have a
return path in case you're unhappy with it. Mine went back a few days
after I purchased it.
 
"mark krawczuk"
hi, any body got a schematic/link to build a 1 volt dc reference
source ?

** How accurate do you need ?

What temp drift ?

Is a precision reference IC with say 2.5 or 5 volts out followed by voltage
divider OK?

What output resistance is needed ??

Or haven't you got a damn clue as usual ?




............ Phil
 
"mark krawczuk" <krawczuk@dodo.com.au> wrote in
news:439f70b4@news.comindico.com.au:

hi, any body got a schematic/link to build a 1 volt dc reference
source ?


thanks.
mark k
I doubt that a specific voltage of 1 volt exists in a monolithic design.
Since you did not mention accuracy, precision, tempco etc. I assume this is
not important in which case you could just voltage divide a good general
purpose reference such as an LM329 and buffer with a good DC spec opamp.
See the LM329 data on Nationals site.
 
"mark krawczuk"

DO NOT TOP POST !!!!!!!!!


hi, its gotta be pretty well smack bang on 1 volt .

** So you have not got a damn clue - as usual.


i just need it to calibrate the basic setting for a O2 sensor meter.
mark k

** Why not calibrate your DMM and use that ?



......... Phil


** How accurate do you need ?

What temp drift ?

Is a precision reference IC with say 2.5 or 5 volts out followed by
voltage divider OK?

What output resistance is needed ??

Or haven't you got a damn clue as usual ?




........... Phil
 
Michael C wrote:
"David L. Jones" <altzone@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:1134458646.863345.194570@g14g2000cwa.googlegroups.com...
Just found this link:
http://www.atmel.com/dyn/resources/prod_documents/DOC0524.PDF
It tells you how to make an RC ADC with 50mV resolution and <0.1V
accuracy on the AT89C2051 using the internal compartor.
It also explains component variations as I mentioned.

Unless you do the calculations to show that you can get the required
accuracy with the RC solution then go with the external ADC and
reference.

I ended up ordering the PCF8591 from futurlec. It's got I2C and 4 analog
inputs so I've got a couple extra just in case. Shipping is 1 to 2 weeks
though :(

http://www.futurlec.com.au/Philips/PCF8591P.jsp

Michael
Cool.
You'll need a reference for that. Something like a 2.5V LM336 from
Jaycar will do the trick.
Then just use a divider on the input if you need to measure greater
than 2.5V

Dave :)
 
whats top posting, please dont shout at me when i dont know what top
posting is.
how would u like it if i shouted at u for no reason.,.?
mark k
"Geoff C" <notinterestedin@spam.com> wrote in message
news:Xns972C80A54A2FBtestnospamcom@61.8.0.29...
"mark krawczuk" <krawczuk@dodo.com.au> wrote in
news:439f70b4@news.comindico.com.au:

hi, any body got a schematic/link to build a 1 volt dc reference
source ?


thanks.
mark k



I doubt that a specific voltage of 1 volt exists in a monolithic design.
Since you did not mention accuracy, precision, tempco etc. I assume this
is
not important in which case you could just voltage divide a good general
purpose reference such as an LM329 and buffer with a good DC spec opamp.
See the LM329 data on Nationals site.
 
"Bob Parker" <bobp.deletethis@bluebottle.com> wrote in message
news:80ntp1dss1rn6obs0dhpc211vjh6grn7d7@4ax.com...
I suggest that you have a look at the GPSOZ website which has a lot
of info on several brands, at http://www.gpsoz.com.au/
I've been told that Qantas pilots prefer Garmin GPS units, but
that's unconfirmed.
I'll never forget the review of a Tomtom I read, by a bloke in
England. He was using it to get to a job interview in London, but it
completely died on him. He had to buy a street directory to finish the
journey. :) Apparently the Tomtoms are not the most reliable GPS
receivers on the market...
When you find a GPS which looks interesting, simply type its model
number and "review" into Google, and you'll get tons of user opinions.
Good luck.

Bob


On Tue, 13 Dec 2005 19:49:13 +1100, "Mike" <mike@(nospam).com.au
wrote:

Anyone have experience of sub $1K GPS In Car navigators. Was interested in
Navman ICN 320 but it does not have 3D mapping. I also have an iPAC 2210
so
have considered a bluetooth Navman 4420 receiver. I am now considering a
Mio
or TomTom but have not found many local users that I can question. Anyone
able to offer an opinion on these options?
Regards
Mike

Thanks Bob. The GPSOZ site was useful but looks geared specifically to
Garmin and Magellan etc. I'll keep up the search.
Cheers
Mike
 
On Tue, 13 Dec 2005 09:01:19 -0000, Jasen Betts
<jasen@free.net.nospam.nz> put finger to keyboard and composed:

On 2005-12-12, Phil Allison <philallison@tpg.com.au> wrote:

"Jasen Betts" <jasen@free.net.nospam.nz


Thermocouples are linear devices,


On the rest of the planet they are non linear.

http://www.wici.com/oem/interest/tcinput.htm

that doc.

.Thermocouples are made by welding two pieces of dissimilar wire together and
.using the welded junction as a temperature sensor. A voltage is created that
.is proportional to the difference in temperature between the welded sensing
.end and the other end where the measurement is being made.

sounds pretty linear...

.Actual thermocouples have Seebeck coefficients that vary widely over their
.temperature range.

Bugger!

Only "mostly" linear over small ranges then...
In fact it *is* linear over the range (700 - 1400 deg C) and accuracy
(+/-20 deg C) specified by the OP.

Here is a "Thermocouple Reference Table Type R (Platinum 13%
Rhodium/Platinum)":
http://www.nutechengineers.com/rchart.pdf

Using two roughly equispaced points (950C and 1200C), I came up with
this relationship:

T = 74V + 221 where V = mV, T = deg C

The following table compares the temperature, T', predicted by the
formula for various values of V (as in the above chart).

V T T'
---------------------
6.743 700 720
7.950 800 809
9.205 900 902
10.506 1000 998
11.850 1100 1094
13.228 1200 1200
14.629 1300 1304
16.040 1400 1408

If the OP cares to do a proper linear regression over the desired
range, the resulting line of best fit should be somewhat closer than
my guesstimate.

- Franc Zabkar
--
Please remove one 'i' from my address when replying by email.
 
The Real Andy wrote:

On Fri, 09 Dec 2005 21:58:39 GMT, "Colin Ž" <tobyjug7@yahoo.com.au
wrote:


"The Real Andy" <will_get_back_to_you_on_This@> wrote in message
news:f2lip158fph265h2gtee3hnqp54aak0c2o@4ax.com...
On Thu, 08 Dec 2005 14:33:18 +1030, John
sittinginthepool@internode.on.net> wrote:


http://business.timesonline.co.uk/article/0,,9075-1914429,00.html



Here we go again.......

At least Sony has the balls to make an attempt to protect there own
interests.


What ? By taking ownership of your PC because you bought a music CD.

Not even Bill has that much arrogance - he's close tho.


Put yourself in Sony's situation. You have something that everyone
else wants. Everyone goes out of there way to steal what you own. What
do you do? Me personally, i dont sit back and let people steal what i
own.

So, what can you do? A third party company comes up with an idea to
protect your interest. What would you do? Would you say 'No, I prefer
people to keep stealing what I own, what I paid for' or would you say,
I will give it a go?

What would you do? Everyone is quick to bag Sony, but no one seems to
understand why they are doing this.

BTW. I am not saying what they do is right, but in their favour, they
are only trying to protect what they rightfully own.


I actually agree and understand your sentiment in part......

Having said that some other less intrusive form of protection
could have been implemented...... Perhaps copying only on
the computer that the disc is played? Some kind of encoding
that only works on 1 computer......

How about the music CD has a small portion set as writeable
and once inserted into a PC it would encode to that particular
PC and allow copying but ONLY on that PC........
 
"Trevor Wilson" <trevor@rageaudio.com.au> wrote >
***You are still cross posting and you cant blame the OP!!
You're not getting much smarter, are you?

IF you have a problem with crossposting (or top posting, or whatever you
imagine is a problem), then take it up with the original poster.


**** As far as I'm concerned,YOU are the original poster!

Brian Goldsmith.
 
"Brian Goldsmith" <brian.goldsmith@nospam.echo1.com.au> wrote in message
news:%pRnf.20346$ea6.1351@news-server.bigpond.net.au...
"Trevor Wilson" <trevor@rageaudio.com.au> wrote
***You are still cross posting and you cant blame the OP!!

You're not getting much smarter, are you?

IF you have a problem with crossposting (or top posting, or whatever you
imagine is a problem), then take it up with the original poster.


**** As far as I'm concerned,YOU are the original poster!
**Then you have a great deal to learn.

I am neither the original poster, nor a top poster. Go away and learn how to
use your newsreader, then come back to us.


I suggest you do some actual research, before making a complete fool of
yourself next time.

BTW: You have still not managed to answer my question. Be as technical as
you feel necessary. In your answer, you may care to examine the impedance
characteristics of headphones and relate what might happen to the frequency
response, when driven by different impedance sources.


--
Trevor Wilson
www.rageaudio.com.au
 
Thanks for that. I will probably try that

It seems strange though that even though they probably aren't designed that
way, most of the lights I have do remember their settings. The ones I wanted
to fix did save their settings last year but not this year. I even just
bought 3 sets of the same lights from Go-Lo. 1 set remembers the settings
and the other 2 don't.
I did also test them tonight.I had set all the lights to the correct
setting, then turned them off for a minute. When I turned them back on they
all remembered the setting, which I thought may have been the capacitor
inside not being able to hold the charge for the full day.

Thanks for the help
Greg

"Lord-Data" <data@ihug.com.au> wrote in message
news:439f5a2b$0$13314$61c65585@un-2park-reader-01.sydney.pipenetworks.com.au...
They're not broken, theyr not designed to remember sequence settings
between runs, which is yes, very annoying..


however:

http://computerchristmas.com/index.phtml?link=how_to&HowToId=23


^^^ Guide to adding a capacitor to the system to give 12-14 hours memory
time.. Should be adaptable to a lot of different boxes.
 
On Mon, 12 Dec 2005 22:36:06 +1100, "Phil Allison"
<philallison@tpg.com.au> wrote:

"Heywood Jablome"


If they watch threads with the word Jaycar in them, then why have they
not
taken our advice and fired the person responsible for their website search
engine?


** Jaycar do not take advice from anyone.
Whatsis name took some advice from me once after I heavily bagged the
business.

They give it out.
So to speak :)
 
use a 100ohm pot with use a multimeter to keep an eye on the volts with
the wiper tied to a fat cap

































"Nicholas Sherlock" <n_sherlock@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:dnoqrv$ifl$1@lust.ihug.co.nz...
: Mike wrote:
: > ...sometimes when
: > people follow a thread they just wish to read the response without
scrolling
: > to the bottom.
:
: "Scrolling to the bottom" isn't a problem when the person doing the
: bottom posting trims their quotes sensibly. Like I've done here,
notice
: that you didn't have to scroll and yet the flow of conversation is
: preserved?
:
: As for top posting...
:
:
: A: Top-posters
: Q: What's the most annoying thing on Usenet?
:
: Cheers,
: Nicholas Sherlock
 
oh it shits me when I have to change the setting every night, grrr.
Especially when I have like 6-8 sets of different lights!

Jason.


"Lord-Data" <data@ihug.com.au> wrote in message
news:439f5a2b$0$13314$61c65585@un-2park-reader-01.sydney.pipenetworks.com.au...
They're not broken, theyr not designed to remember sequence settings
between runs, which is yes, very annoying..


however:

http://computerchristmas.com/index.phtml?link=how_to&HowToId=23


^^^ Guide to adding a capacitor to the system to give 12-14 hours memory
time.. Should be adaptable to a lot of different boxes.


"Grenge" <Grengeis@thefootthatisbig.com> wrote in message
news:439f51c4$0$3638$5a62ac22@per-qv1-newsreader-01.iinet.net.au...
I am wondering if anyone knows if there is an easy way to repair some
christmas lights?
Some of the lights we have won't remember the setting they are on and
will revert to the first setting each day. I know that all the lights we
have are different types but I was wondering if anyone knows if they have
a battery or capacitor iside the box to remember the settings.
I can try to get mor info from the boxes if that would help.

Greg
 
I agree Mike. There might be logic to bottom posting (no gay slur intended),
however I seem to spend half my time spinning the scroll button through all
the text I've read multiple times to get to a couple of lines of text. It is
quite entertaining seeing how wound up some people get over such a trivial
thing - I thought the whole point of NGs / forums etc was to share knowledge
etc.

Maybe future news readers could be enhanced to seqence replies to suit the
users preference..... :)


<snip...snip>

As the world moves on and email is becoming the major communication method
within business then email etiquette will take over the Usenet practices.
I
appreciate that top posting in Usenet is frowned upon but sometimes when
people follow a thread they just wish to read the response without
scrolling
to the bottom. If someone snips a thread then the whole point of bottom
posting is lost.
Change is always difficult but it does happen.
Just my two bobs worth
Mike
See top post for reply.
 
Phil Allison wrote:
** Anyone know the number of the power amplifier IC used in the Panasonic
SA- PM25 mini audio system.

It starts with LA47 ......

There is a *nasty burn hole* where the rest of the number should be !!

The IC has two mounting bolts and has maybe 18 - 20 pins on one side.

Any known traps ?



........ Phil




** Lemme see:

You can't even tell us if there are 18 or 20 pins on one side. If any
one else asked you would be abusing them for not bothering to count, or
for wanting to keep it a secret?

Your so rude to every one else, yet expect them to help you.

Oh well.

http://www.ortodoxism.ro/datasheets/sanyo/ds_pdf_e/LA4705.pdf

David
 
On Wed, 14 Dec 2005 19:31:18 +1100, Franc Zabkar
<fzabkar@iinternode.on.net> put finger to keyboard and composed:

Here is a "Thermocouple Reference Table Type R (Platinum 13%
Rhodium/Platinum)":
http://www.nutechengineers.com/rchart.pdf

Using two roughly equispaced points (950C and 1200C), I came up with
this relationship:

T = 74V + 221 where V = mV, T = deg C
BTW, I believe you should be able to realise this formula using an
instrumentation op amp with a gain of 74 and an offset (in mV) given
by ...

221 + 74 x Vcj

.... where Vcj is the cold junction compensation voltage.

For simplicity you might prefer a fixed voltage at a fixed ambient
temperature of 25C, say, or you might like to use a device such as the
LM335 to sense the actual ambient temperature.

If a fixed offset is good enough, then I believe you would need to add
0.141mV to the measured values. The formula then becomes ...

T = 74 x (Vmeasured + 0.141) + 221
= 74V + 10.4 + 221

The multimeter will display the temperature in millivolts.

- Franc Zabkar
--
Please remove one 'i' from my address when replying by email.
 
Just ignore him Mark - he is a fuckwit trying hard to be a Rod Speed - he
knows a bit about electronics, but nothing about good manners

David

mark krawczuk wrote:

whats top posting, please dont shout at me when i dont know what top
posting is.
how would u like it if i shouted at u for no reason.,.?
mark k
 

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