PRC as a amplifier in GPS question.

Demosthenes wrote:

Hi,

I live in Adelaide.. I want to rig up a FM stereo transmitter or two to
computers in the house so they can work as jukeboxes to a stereo in the
bathroom, etc - is this possible? On the cheap?

Thanks!

Jaycar kit KC-5341 $49.95 Micromitter stereo FM transmitter.

--

David

 

[Angelo Sartore]

If you have some technical experience with Electronics, Silicon Chip
published a FM transmitter circuit a few months back. Jaycar or Altronics
will have the kit available.

Angelo Sartore

Melbourne
AUSTRALIA

ADOPT, ADAPT, INVENT, DESTROY !

"Demosthenes" <demosthenes@you.know.what.internode.ignorethisbit.on.net>
wrote in message news:3f3f7343@duster.adelaide.on.net...

Hi,

I live in Adelaide.. I want to rig up a FM stereo transmitter or two to
computers in the house so they can work as jukeboxes to a stereo in the
bathroom, etc - is this possible? On the cheap?

Thanks!

 

[Larry Hatch]

Demosthenes wrote:

Hi,

I live in Adelaide.. I want to rig up a FM stereo transmitter or two to
computers in the house so they can work as jukeboxes to a stereo in the
bathroom, etc - is this possible? On the cheap?

Thanks!

I bought a unit for our boat recently, it was buy KRANE I think. It has
a pot inside, you turn up and it made the distance I needed with no
problems. About 75 feet through all the electronics.

 

[AccuLab]

Thanks George, I did try WES but they're not really interested. Not enough
$$$ in it for them.
Cheers
Chris



"George L" <gmt@zipworld.com> wrote in message
news:3_K%a.1120$d6.80141@nasal.pacific.net.au...

Hi Chris,
Try one of the specialty service mobs like WES components in
Sydney.....they have them all and much cheaper
Cheers George
"AccuLab" <gate@dot.com> wrote in message
news:3f385731$1_1@news.iprimus.com.au...
Wondering if if any of you good people out there would have a Pinch
Roller
for a Sony SLV-X322 VCR. I'm not a qualified tech but I've taken on this
job
for a bit of a challenge and would really like to beat it. The motor is
running okay but the machine wont play, FF or RW and is missing the
pinch
roller. I thought one of you techs out there might have a non working
machine I could get the roller out of as Sony want nearly $60 for a
replacement, ..not worth it and a bit of a rippoff I think!

I made an estimate of the size of the roller and used a vernier caliper
to
measure the shaft dia which is 4mm
The roller dia should be about 13mm - 16mm and the height is about
13mm -
19mm

Any assist would be greatly appreciated
TIA
Chris

 

"Rex Turner

I have a need for an on-board carburettor balance device for a twin cylinder
motorcycle.
Proposed design is one sensor (differential) coupled to both carbies,
driving a bargraph display with zero centre.
Question - which sensor to use and where in Oz can one get these.
(need to keep cost down)
TIA,
RexT.

Have a gander at the Motorola MPX5000 series of pressure sensors. They are
differential, are amplified, and have temperature compensation. Digikey
sell them for around US$20. They've also got the MPX2000 range, which are
unamplified, but have temperature compensation, for less than US$10.

For info, have a look at this manufacturer's website.

http://e-www.motorola.com/webapp/search.part_number_search_query.framework

Plug "MPX5" into the part number search.

--

David

 

[Vermin]

On Sun, 17 Aug 2003 21:51:21 +0930, Demosthenes
<demosthenes@you.know.what.internode.ignorethisbit.on.net> wrote:

Hi,

I live in Adelaide.. I want to rig up a FM stereo transmitter or two to
computers in the house so they can work as jukeboxes to a stereo in the
bathroom, etc - is this possible? On the cheap?

Thanks!

If you do build the Jaycar kit as suggested above, be extremely
careful when adjusting the ferrite slugs.

I attempted to retune mine to a different spot in the FM band a week
or so ago. I used a ceramic tuning tool that was the correct size,
but in the couple of months the thing has been in service the slugs
must have seized up a bit. *crack*.

It still works (and well too) but it will never be tuned to a
different frequency again,unless I go and buy another former and
ferrite slug.

Tom.

 

[Mark Little]

Rex Turner wrote:

I have a need for an on-board carburettor balance device for a twin
cylinder motorcycle.
Proposed design is one sensor (differential) coupled to both carbies,
driving a bargraph display with zero centre.
Question - which sensor to use and where in Oz can one get these.
(need to keep cost down)
TIA,
RexT.

RS Components stock them, but I wouldn't pretend that they are cheap from
them.

regards,
Mark

 

[John Mackesy]

"Rex Turner turner@bigpond.net.au>" <r<dot> wrote in message
news:kc_%a.41285$bo1.32887@news-server.bigpond.net.au...
I have a need for an on-board carburettor balance device for a twin cylinder
motorcycle.
Proposed design is one sensor (differential) coupled to both carbies,
driving a bargraph display with zero centre.
Question - which sensor to use and where in Oz can one get these.
(need to keep cost down)
TIA,
RexT.

If the airflows were balanced at idle, that is the throttle openings were
symmetrical, wouldn't they remain balanced over the whole operating range?
Back in the days when I drove a twin-carburettor Triumph TR, carburettor
balance was achieved either by tweaking the throttle linkage and listening
to the hiss in each carburettor, or by using an airflow measuring device. I
used to have one of these but can't recall what it was called. The first
technique is effective; all you need is a length of tubing and a well-tuned
ear.

John Mackesy

 

[Bill Bailley]

If you do build the Jaycar kit as suggested above, be extremely
careful when adjusting the ferrite slugs.

I attempted to retune mine to a different spot in the FM band a week
or so ago. I used a ceramic tuning tool that was the correct size,
but in the couple of months the thing has been in service the slugs
must have seized up a bit. *crack*.

It still works (and well too) but it will never be tuned to a
different frequency again,unless I go and buy another former and
ferrite slug.

Tom.

I will second the advice given above. VERY fragile. I actual broke two even

after following the printed advice to remove some of the rubber cemented
into a groove the length of the slug. My eventual fix was to remove ALL of
the rubber and use an inch or so of plumbers teflon tape wrapped around the
slug. Easy, smooth, and not so easy to break. Excellent kit by the way. I
have one on the rear of my TV so I can follow the sound better from a radio
on the side table, and one on the back of this box to send my OTR
collection to the shed, garden etc. (different freqs of course)

Old Bill

 

[mikegw]

Now the problem. I have the IR re-ransmitter placed infront of my Foxtel
STU (set top unit). When I use the remote to change the channel from
down starirs via the remote extender, no problems. When I use the remote
to change the Foxtel channel upstairs where the STU is located, it
doesn't always work. I have moved the IR transmitter from in front of
the STU IR receiver incase it was blocked, but no joy.

The only time the remote for the Foxtel STU works is when I unplug the
IR re-transmitter.

Do you have any compact fluorescent light globes in the area? They can
screw up IR stuff.

Mike

 

[KLR]

On Mon, 18 Aug 2003 23:57:39 +1000, "mikegw"
<mikegw20@hotmail.spammers.must.die.com> wrote:

Now the problem. I have the IR re-ransmitter placed infront of my Foxtel
STU (set top unit). When I use the remote to change the channel from
down starirs via the remote extender, no problems. When I use the remote
to change the Foxtel channel upstairs where the STU is located, it
doesn't always work. I have moved the IR transmitter from in front of
the STU IR receiver incase it was blocked, but no joy.

The only time the remote for the Foxtel STU works is when I unplug the
IR re-transmitter.

Do you have any compact fluorescent light globes in the area? They can
screw up IR stuff.

Some CFL are very effective at this - specially when they get a bit

old too and "flickery".

Can have a hard time convincing people of this effect too.


By the way - the faulty CFL (if its the cause) might possibly be in
the room where the remote IR receiver is - and retransmitting its crap
via the link.


if in doubt - switch off ALL lights and try again.

Mike

 

[Ken Taylor]

<not@home.com> wrote in message
news:a2j1kvstpalc4so3mvo0ie7eces6smmktk@4ax.com...

Can anyone help with this:

It is in a T0-220 package (of sorts - 5 leads coming from the bottom vs 3)
and has the following markings:

old National semiconductor logo 8612
1573
REL

Used in a LCD display board (Hitachi HD44790 driver) and some sort of
'flash rom' (NCR 52801).
Power supplied: 12v to pin 1 and 5v to pin 5 of the device in question.
There is no display (will not turn on).

National Semiconductor has been of no help.

thanks for any help or cross reference to it.
Tim

Almost certainly a switching regulator IC, LM1573, similar to the LM1575
family, though I can't find that exact number.
http://www.national.com/ds/LM/LM1575.pdf for reference. You may be able to
trace out the circuit and see if it operates similarly.

Ken

 

[matt]

not@home.com wrote in message news:<a2j1kvstpalc4so3mvo0ie7eces6smmktk@4ax.com>...

Can anyone help with this:

It is in a T0-220 package (of sorts - 5 leads coming from the bottom vs 3) and has the following markings:

old National semiconductor logo 8612
1573
REL

Used in a LCD display board (Hitachi HD44790 driver) and some sort of 'flash rom' (NCR 52801).
Power supplied: 12v to pin 1 and 5v to pin 5 of the device in question. There is no display (will not turn on).

National Semiconductor has been of no help.

thanks for any help or cross reference to it.

Tim

try this link from national semiconductor may be helpful.

http://wwwd.national.com/national/PowerMB.nsf/0/FF9D7A2F00443FF288256833005D5447?OpenDocument

matt.

 

[Trevor Wilson]

"Dean" <dbd@cyllene.uwa.edu.au> wrote in message
news:bhrt9t$unp$1@enyo.uwa.edu.au...

I have a NAD C370 integrated amp. It has an 2 outputs from the preamp to
allow for bi-amping. At the moment I only use the unit's internal
amplifier
so one of the preamp's outputs ( the variable one to allow balancing when
bi-amping ) is just left floating.

OK, so a few people have told me to terminate those floating outputs with
about 10k to 50k to improve sound quality. I tried it and could not hear
any
difference listening to several types of music. I would like to know why
terminating an output with such a high impedance ( compared to my 4 ohm
speakers at audio frequencies I'm guessing ) would make any difference.

**If anything, terminating the outputs of a line level amp, will cause
problems, rather than solve them. Admittedly, a resistor of 10k ~ 50k is
unlikely to do any real damage (sound-wise), but it certainly will not help.

Is

it just more HiFi bullshit ?

**It sure is.

My NAD amp is pretty good, but I still find it

sounds too jarring at loud volume levels compared to other systems I've
heard.

**Listen other amps, in YOUR system. Then you can decide if the amp is the
problem, or (more likely) something else.

And if anyone is familiar with the C370, they will know of the incredibly
pissy links they supply to couple the preamp to the main input. I've
replaced those with 'propper' very short interconnects on very stern
advice - and I can barely notice any difference !

**Of course. Why would you expect to hear a difference? The links supplied
are nickel plated brass. Entirely adequate (as long as they are clean) for
the job.


--
Trevor Wilson
www.rageaudio.com.au

 

[Russ]

"Dean" <dbd@cyllene.uwa.edu.au> wrote in message
news:bhrt9t$unp$1@enyo.uwa.edu.au...

And if anyone is familiar with the C370, they will know of the incredibly
pissy links they supply to couple the preamp to the main input. I've
replaced those with 'propper' very short interconnects on very stern
advice - and I can barely notice any difference !

If you open up your amplifier and look at the PCB you'll see they use
outrageously thin copper tracks all over the place. Clearly NAD need some
stern advice on need for audiophile-quality interconnects between *all*
components. I'm not sure about NAD, but I get the impression a lot of
manufacturers are getting away without using OFC copper on their component
leads.

Of course "I can barely notice any difference" is the operative phrase here.
If you actually want to see the difference, observe the contents of your
wallet before and after acting on "stern advice".

Russ.

 

[Phil Allison]

"Trevor Wilson" <trevor@rageaudio.com.au> wrote in message
news:3f418019$1@news.comindico.com.au...

**Of course. Why would you expect to hear a difference? The links supplied
are nickel plated brass. Entirely adequate (as long as they are clean) for
the job.

** What about the Nickel Oxide ???

Or is that a good conductor too ?



.............. Phil

 

[Sonny Foster]

KLR <kreed@bigpond.net.au> wrote in message news:<e2q1kvok2hojn5d86qnh38j2c4vuvjhtf6@4ax.com>...

On Mon, 18 Aug 2003 23:57:39 +1000, "mikegw"
mikegw20@hotmail.spammers.must.die.com> wrote:

Now the problem. I have the IR re-ransmitter placed infront of my Foxtel
STU (set top unit). When I use the remote to change the channel from
down starirs via the remote extender, no problems. When I use the remote
to change the Foxtel channel upstairs where the STU is located, it
doesn't always work. I have moved the IR transmitter from in front of
the STU IR receiver incase it was blocked, but no joy.

The only time the remote for the Foxtel STU works is when I unplug the
IR re-transmitter.

Do you have any compact fluorescent light globes in the area? They can
screw up IR stuff.

Some CFL are very effective at this - specially when they get a bit
old too and "flickery".

Can have a hard time convincing people of this effect too.


By the way - the faulty CFL (if its the cause) might possibly be in
the room where the remote IR receiver is - and retransmitting its crap
via the link.


if in doubt - switch off ALL lights and try again.

Well, I've actually turned the receiver unit down staris off so it's
not actually transmitting anything at the moment. There is a CFL down
there which is a bit old but not turned on very often.

Oddly, the unit seems to work well at nights but not in the mornings.
My remote will not changethe channels on the STU in the mornings but
at night, it seems to work about 50-75% of the time.

Any ideas ?

Cheers

Sonny

 

[Trevor Wilson]

"Phil Allison" <philallison@optusnet.com.au> wrote in message
news:3f41885b$0$6526$afc38c87@news.optusnet.com.au...

"Trevor Wilson" <trevor@rageaudio.com.au> wrote in message
news:3f418019$1@news.comindico.com.au...


**Of course. Why would you expect to hear a difference? The links
supplied
are nickel plated brass. Entirely adequate (as long as they are clean)
for
the job.


** What about the Nickel Oxide ???

Or is that a good conductor too ?

**Focus on the words:

" Entirely adequate (as long as they are clean) for the job."
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^


--
Trevor Wilson
www.rageaudio.com.au

 

[Joseph Webster]

Hi Sonny,
My guess is the re-transmitter IR beam is staying on instead of going
dark between signals.
The STU receiver can't see enough contrast to respond to the remote
while the re-transmitter beam is on.

Joseph

Sonny Foster wrote:

Hi All,

Ok, this is kinda an odd question, but I'll ask to see if anyone can
help.

A few months back I asked about wireless video/audio transmitters. Got
heaps of help and ended up purchasing aunit from WES Components. Works
great. The idea is to re-transmit my video signal from my top floor to
my botom floor. No problemo and it even has one of those little IR
tranmitters so i can chnage channels using the remote too.

Now the problem. I have the IR re-ransmitter placed infront of my Foxtel
STU (set top unit). When I use the remote to change the channel from
down starirs via the remote extender, no problems. When I use the remote
to change the Foxtel channel upstairs where the STU is located, it
doesn't always work. I have moved the IR transmitter from in front of
the STU IR receiver incase it was blocked, but no joy.

The only time the remote for the Foxtel STU works is when I unplug the
IR re-transmitter.

Why would this be happening ?

Thanks

Sonny

 

[Jon]

Of course you would need to "see" any change on an oscilloscope.
Gold is the way to go!
After seeing all the gold plated connecters on car amps and equalisers,
they'll have to go a long way to convince me that anything less than ideal
is ideal.
You have been conned.
You also need 4 inch thick speaker wires etc.
While you wont notice it much, you'll make the sales team and amplifier very
happy.
"Russ" <russell@remove.thehovel.net> wrote in message
news:3f4187ad@iridium.webone.com.au...

"Dean" <dbd@cyllene.uwa.edu.au> wrote in message
news:bhrt9t$unp$1@enyo.uwa.edu.au...

And if anyone is familiar with the C370, they will know of the
incredibly
pissy links they supply to couple the preamp to the main input. I've
replaced those with 'propper' very short interconnects on very stern
advice - and I can barely notice any difference !

If you open up your amplifier and look at the PCB you'll see they use
outrageously thin copper tracks all over the place. Clearly NAD need some
stern advice on need for audiophile-quality interconnects between *all*
components. I'm not sure about NAD, but I get the impression a lot of
manufacturers are getting away without using OFC copper on their component
leads.

Of course "I can barely notice any difference" is the operative phrase
here.
If you actually want to see the difference, observe the contents of your
wallet before and after acting on "stern advice".

Russ.