PRC as a amplifier in GPS question.

[AWS]

He's not even worth a reply!
This Rod DH is a total loser, and you can see he is as he hides behind a German Newsgroup.
(Message-ID: <bh70pi$uuuuv$1@ID-69072.news.uni-berlin.de&gt
and connects through IInet, (m069-249.nv.iinet.net.au (203.217.69.249))
He is an annoying little Boy with a foul Mouth.
And the IQ of -Zero..
:>


"Steve" <niftydog@hotmail.com> wrote in message news:e28c5b43.0308101759.2fceed6b@posting.google.com...

The Cat. will always be more convenient,

Wrong. As always. A properly organised
CD or web site is MUCH easier to search.

Utter bullshit. Show me a properly organised web site and I'll show
you a Hussein family member WITHOUT a moustache. There are no such
things!

For starters, you've gotta have a PC sitting there next to your
workbench. (ie; whithin reach, just like the catalogue)

You need a modem, an internet connection, you need to dial up, enter
the URL, wait for the home page, fathom an appropriate search term
then hope that what you're after is in the sub-category.

for instance, cable clamps with nails are called "quick fix cable
clamps" and don't appear in the "cable clamps and grommets" page, they
appear in the "cable restraints" page despite that they are called
"cable clamps".

Click on "Camcorder - Sony" and you'd expect to find Sony brand
camcorders yes?
WRONGO! You get Sony brand tapes... for 8mm camcorders. For ACTUAL
camcorders, you need to go to just plain "camcorders".

What do the categorys "communicate" and "compute" mean? They're not
intuitive at all. Click on "compute" and amongst other useless things
you are prestented with digital cameras! Of course, now we can all
see the relevance. Ah yes, it's a sub category of "fathers day
ideas". Handy!

Notice I havn't even left the "c" page and we've found several stupid
things without even trying.

Hmm, I wonder what's in the "must haves" category? Apparently my life
is not complete without an Energizer Photo Battery ELCRV3! Must get
one this arvo!

To find utility knives, you need to be aware that they're lumped
together with vices. Don't go looking under "K" for knives, that's
just f___ing stupid!!!

Need some RCA cables? Don't go looking under "c" for cables, you
won't find the full range. You need to visit the "Standard range" or
"standard cable range" sub-categorys to find those.

I didn't realise until today that "mini disc" means the MD player
itself, whilst "minidisc" means the blank discs.

Need an extra power point? Double adapter of power board? Can't
decide? better look at prices... oh, they're on two different pages
on the website... got to "P" for powerboards and "d" for double
adapters. Seems simple enough... wait a second, where did the alpha
index go?! Oh, that's right, those "handy links" aren't present on
every page, you'll need to hit back before you can select a new letter
to browse.

printed catalogue,index says page 132, whammo, you've got the whole
range there on two facing pages. Easy.

Need crimp connectors? You need the sub-category "quick connectors",
under this category you'll find a whole bunch of products called
"crimp connectors". Where did the "quick" come into the equation?
Beats me.

oh, and don't try using the search feature either! Search for "crimp
connectors" and you'll find three crimping tools and crimp joiners...
but NO CONNECTORS! Ah ha, I spotted my error, I needed to search for
"crimp connector", drop the "s" and magically they are all found!
That's a pretty clever search engine they have there...

wow, why am I bothering with the catalogue when it's so intuitive and
easy to find what you need on the website!?

Doing these searches from home with my 56k modem would have taken
about half an hour or more! And as my computer doesn't meet the
requirements of the CD rom I have no alternative but to pick up the
print catalogue. And that suits me to a tee!

 

[Defibrillator]

I'd imagine you're talking about a substantial current, even if it's only a
little vintage car engine - say 50 to 100 amps or more. A switching
converter or similar would not be easily built for such a current.

How about getting two 6 volt lead-acid batteries? Use them in parallel for
jump starting. Then connect them in series for recharging from 12V.


"Bryan" <bryan1@westnet.com.au> wrote in message
news:3f374807$1@news.comindico.com.au...

Hi, I'm wondering if anyone has a circuit to use, I need to jump start 6
volt batteries on vintage cars hopefully with a 12 volt battery. This
would
need to be able to handle a few amps so it can crank over those old
vintage
motors. Any suggestions would be appreciated.

Cheers Bryan

 

[Brian Goldsmith]

"Bryan" <bryan1@westnet.com.au> wrote

Hi, I'm wondering if anyone has a circuit to use, I need to
jump start 6
volt batteries on vintage cars hopefully with a 12 volt
battery. This would
need to be able to handle a few amps so it can crank over
those old vintage
motors.

**** Methinks more than a "few" Amperes will be required!!
Brian Goldsmith.

 

[The real Andy]

"gcd" <gcdnoSPAM@austarmetro.com.au> wrote in message
news:3f3754bb@news.comindico.com.au...

Hi Jack,
One of the problems you will be having is that as the motor builds up
speed
it will produce back emf and the volts at the S of the FET will go above
5V.

at least 2 things to do.

1) I would swap (as it's an N type mosfet) positions of the motor and FET.
S to GND D to bottom of motor, top of motor to +12.

2) I'd put a 10 ohm resistor in bewtween the switch and +5V to limit the
inrush into the gate

Also just a note, depending on the motor you are using, 5V drive to the
FET
( even if it's a "logic level") may not fully turn it on, check the FET
data
sheet.

May I also add that a diode accross the motor will help stop the transient
induced turn-on at the source. The gate resistance is also critical, as greg
suggests.

 

[John Crighton]

On 11 Aug 2003 00:31:24 -0700, raccoonsruletheworld@hotmail.com
(moptop) wrote:

I've been experimenting with the MOSFETs I'm going to use for my motor
controllers, and I'm having a few problems.
Here's what I hooked up:

+12V +5V
| S
\—————|
| R
M |
| GND
GND

M is a motor
\ is an N-Channel MOSFET
S is a switch
R is a 1k resistor

Everything works fine when I replace 12V with the 5V, and use and LED
instead of a motor.
But when I hook the motor up, it does strange things for about a
second, before just stepping up to full throttle, regardless of the
gate.
I have been told that this is called "punch through", but I am not
sure how to prevent this from happening.

It'd be great if someone can help me out.

Jack

Hello Jack,
I am guessing that you are looking for a variable speed
motor controller. If so, have a look here
http://www.solorb.com/elect/solarcirc/pwm1/
This little motor controller works well. Do not be
put off by the picture of a fan sitting on a metal
box. Build it to suit yourself, on a piece of perforated
board like vero board and mount it near your motor.
Select the power FET to suit your application.
If your motor only draws a few amps, you can
get away without a heatsink, or just a small one,
on the FET.
Regards,
John Crighton
Hornsby

 

[JOSEPH IRVINE]

MMmmmm, cat on top of monitor, purrfect picture.
Sorry but I couldn't help it.!!! lol.

"KLR" <kreed@bigpond.net.au> wrote in message
news:kslcjvcjd449d21nedq4vmol1spkajcqak@4ax.com...

On Sun, 10 Aug 2003 19:46:07 +1000, "Solo"
kaseyfanREMOVE@ncable.net.au> wrote:

Hi, Im looking for someone to fix a monitor in Ballarat

anyone out there??

17" Monitor with a loss of red ... maybe a dry joint on one of the boards
.... if i puss on the top of the monitor it comes back on, then after a
while it goes again.

Cheers


well you maybe need to encourage "puss" to
stay on top of the monitor ! .

Mine sleeps up there all the time and other than the tail occasionally
falling across the screen - there are never monitor problems

I assume you speak of the cat as If it was the other type of puss -
then I imagine that you would be too busy being distracted by it to
notice an intermittent monitor fault

----------

Seriously though - any electronic / tv repairer in your local area
should be able to have this fixed in no time at minimal cost. sounds
much to me like a dry joint.

 

[Phil Allison]

"Warren" <wozz1au@yahoo.com.au> wrote in message
news:3F377533.45731231@yahoo.com.au...

Anyone know of a opamp equivalent for a old quad opamp, uA4136.used in a
EA kit, Musicolor IV -colour organ /
light chaser. Was thinking along the lines of a TL074 but are the pinouts
the same ?

Warren...

** RC4136N from Farnell (in One) $ 2.50ea + gst.

Cat 400 - 051

Dirt cheap.



............... Phil

 

[Rob Judd]

Warren wrote:

Anyone know of a opamp equivalent for
a old quad opamp, uA4136.used in a EA kit, Musicolor IV -colour organ /
light chaser.
Was thinking along the lines of a TL074 but
are the pinouts the same ?

The uA4136 was essentially a quad 741 IC. They're pretty noisy, and
with a bit of effort a TL074 should do a better job. These are NOT
pin-for-pin compatible.

Rob

 

gcd wrote:

Hi Jack,
One of the problems you will be having is that as the motor builds up speed
it will produce back emf and the volts at the S of the FET will go above 5V.

at least 2 things to do.

1) I would swap (as it's an N type mosfet) positions of the motor and FET.
S to GND D to bottom of motor, top of motor to +12.

2) I'd put a 10 ohm resistor in bewtween the switch and +5V to limit the
inrush into the gate

How is gate current relevant? Have you checked the topology of a FET lately?
Don't you mean drain or source?

Also just a note, depending on the motor you are using, 5V drive to the FET
( even if it's a "logic level") may not fully turn it on, check the FET data
sheet.

Hope that helps
Greg

"moptop" <raccoonsruletheworld@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:739c8008.0308102331.4c017b94@posting.google.com...
I've been experimenting with the MOSFETs I'm going to use for my motor
controllers, and I'm having a few problems.
Here's what I hooked up:

+12V +5V
| S
\-----|
| R
M |
| GND
GND

M is a motor
\ is an N-Channel MOSFET
S is a switch
R is a 1k resistor

Everything works fine when I replace 12V with the 5V, and use and LED
instead of a motor.
But when I hook the motor up, it does strange things for about a
second, before just stepping up to full throttle, regardless of the
gate.
I have been told that this is called "punch through", but I am not
sure how to prevent this from happening.

It'd be great if someone can help me out.

Jack

--

David

 

[John Harvey]

Bryan wrote:

Hi, I'm wondering if anyone has a circuit to use, I need to jump start 6
volt batteries on vintage cars hopefully with a 12 volt battery. This would
need to be able to handle a few amps so it can crank over those old vintage
motors. Any suggestions would be appreciated.

A typical starter motor can draw several hundred amps, which will vary
depending on load, so there's no practical way to step down the
voltage.

You don't say what makes and models but for most pre-1930 cars
(vintage) you should be able to apply 12volts directly to the starter
without any problems since the back EMF will adjust accordingly (ie
most starter motors aren't particularly voltage sensitive). This is
dead easy to set up for Bendix and inertia drives where the starter is
isolated by an external switch (or solenoid).

Solenoid operated pre-engaged pinions are a relatively modern
innovation, but you can still operate 6V versions using 12V (eg early
Holdens) with minor (switchable) modifications to the car's wiring to
isolate voltage sensitive components (providing the resident battery
has enough juice to operate the ignition).

There's also plenty of other options, depending on make and model,
type of ignition, etc, etc.

--
John H

This address will reach me if you apply ROT13 wbuauneirl@ovtcbaq.pbz

 

[budgie]

On Mon, 11 Aug 2003 21:57:58 +1000, John Harvey <john4271@hotmail.com>
wrote:

Bryan wrote:

Hi, I'm wondering if anyone has a circuit to use, I need to jump start 6
volt batteries on vintage cars hopefully with a 12 volt battery. This would
need to be able to handle a few amps so it can crank over those old vintage
motors. Any suggestions would be appreciated.

A typical starter motor can draw several hundred amps, which will vary
depending on load, so there's no practical way to step down the
voltage.

You don't say what makes and models but for most pre-1930 cars
(vintage) you should be able to apply 12volts directly to the starter
without any problems since the back EMF will adjust accordingly (ie
most starter motors aren't particularly voltage sensitive). This is
dead easy to set up for Bendix and inertia drives where the starter is
isolated by an external switch (or solenoid).

Solenoid operated pre-engaged pinions are a relatively modern
innovation, but you can still operate 6V versions using 12V (eg early
Holdens) with minor (switchable) modifications to the car's wiring to
isolate voltage sensitive components (providing the resident battery
has enough juice to operate the ignition).

There's also plenty of other options, depending on make and model,
type of ignition, etc, etc.

If he can afford dual batteries in the vehicle, so much the better.
(We used to run high-compression (relative) grey motored FJ's with a
12V battery. Changed the rest of the vhicle over to 12, left the 6V
starter in).

If not, *maybe* one of those 12V jump-starter kits direct onto the
starter solenoid's motor (output) terminal would get it spinning.

 

[Rod Speed]

Some gutless prat desperately cowering behind
AWS <aws@nospam.net.au> wrote in message
news:3f374cbe$0$95045$c30e37c6@lon-reader.news.telstra.net...
just the puerile shit thats always pouring from its fat arse.

 

[Mark van der Eynden]

"Bryan" <bryan1@westnet.com.au> wrote in message news:<3f374807$1@news.comindico.com.au>...

Hi, I'm wondering if anyone has a circuit to use, I need to jump start 6
volt batteries on vintage cars hopefully with a 12 volt battery. This would
need to be able to handle a few amps so it can crank over those old vintage
motors. Any suggestions would be appreciated.

Cheers Bryan

Converting 12 to 6 at a couple of hundred amps is certainly not
economical.

How about examining one of those 'new fangled dooverhickeys' that
connect cars together via the cigarette lighter. You leave the cars
connected for about 5 minutes and then the flat battery is charged
enough to start the engine. They work by using a switchd mode power
supply to create more than 12 volts at a resonable current to charge
the second battery from the first. It should be possible to change a
few components and convert it into a 6 volt equivalent.

Cheers,

Mark

 

[Mr Anish Varsani]

To turn the fet on, you need a Vgs of about 10V or higher. Your source is the
motor terminal. If you have 11V accros your motor, you'll need 21V at the gate
to turn it on. If your using a logic level fet, you'll need a Vgs of 5V, so 16V
at the gate. If you're dead set on having this arrangement, you can use a high
side gate driver though it is overkill. Just swap the position of the motor and
Nch fet so the source is now ground. This way your gate is switched relative to
a fixed potential.



Your original circuit won't let enough current to flow to make the motor run
because you're not turning the mosfet completely on.

I've been experimenting with the MOSFETs I'm going to use for my motor
controllers, and I'm having a few problems.
Here's what I hooked up:

+12V +5V
| S
\—————|
| R
M |
| GND
GND

M is a motor
\ is an N-Channel MOSFET
S is a switch
R is a 1k resistor

Everything works fine when I replace 12V with the 5V, and use and LED
instead of a motor.
But when I hook the motor up, it does strange things for about a
second, before just stepping up to full throttle, regardless of the
gate.
I have been told that this is called "punch through", but I am not
sure how to prevent this from happening.

It'd be great if someone can help me out.

Jack

 

[Steve]

"AWS" <aws@nospam.net.au> wrote in message news:<3f374cbe$0$95045$c30e37c6@lon-reader.news.telstra.net>...

He's not even worth a reply!

I hear that! Funny how some people posting to Usenet think that the
way to win an argument is to ramp up the pointless, immature insults
until... until... um, what does happen when you do that? What
possible benefit comes from this DH laying the boot into a complete
stranger?! I guess when you've got a small dick and a brain to match
you've gotta do SOMETHING to boost your self esteem.

oh well, his problem not mine!

 

[Rod Speed]

Steve <niftydog@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:e28c5b43.0308111538.405df3d4@posting.google.com...

Funny how some people posting to Usenet think that the way
to win an argument is to ramp up the pointless, immature insults
until... until... um, what does happen when you do that? What
possible benefit comes from this DH laying the boot into a complete
stranger?! I guess when you've got a small dick and a brain to
match you've gotta do SOMETHING to boost your self esteem.

Corse there aint even the slightest hint of
you doing anything like that yourself, eh ?

oh well, his problem not mine!

Wrong. As always.

 

[Rudolf Ladyzhenskii]

Pinch rollers are about $6. (non-original ones).
Call WES in Sydney and give them dimensions.

VCR will not play without pinch roller but should REW and FF. You probably
have another problem in it.
Which motor did you check? Capstan?
Does VCR loads the mechanism?
Does head drum rotate?

Rudolf


"AccuLab" <gate@dot.com> wrote in message
news:3f385731$1_1@news.iprimus.com.au...

Wondering if if any of you good people out there would have a Pinch Roller
for a Sony SLV-X322 VCR. I'm not a qualified tech but I've taken on this
job
for a bit of a challenge and would really like to beat it. The motor is
running okay but the machine wont play, FF or RW and is missing the pinch
roller. I thought one of you techs out there might have a non working
machine I could get the roller out of as Sony want nearly $60 for a
replacement, ..not worth it and a bit of a rippoff I think!

I made an estimate of the size of the roller and used a vernier caliper to
measure the shaft dia which is 4mm
The roller dia should be about 13mm - 16mm and the height is about 13mm -
19mm

Any assist would be greatly appreciated
TIA
Chris

 

[The real Andy]

"Rob Judd" <judd@ob-wan.com> wrote in message
news:3F37802E.DE9421AB@ob-wan.com...

Warren wrote:

Anyone know of a opamp equivalent for
a old quad opamp, uA4136.used in a EA kit, Musicolor IV -colour organ /
light chaser.
Was thinking along the lines of a TL074 but
are the pinouts the same ?

The uA4136 was essentially a quad 741 IC. They're pretty noisy, and
with a bit of effort a TL074 should do a better job. These are NOT
pin-for-pin compatible.

For a musicolour i doubt noise is going to matter. The musicolur i remember
is probably what i would term as a 'primative design' and could no doubt be
redesigned a lot better with cheaper technology.

 

[The real Andy]

<wozza@not.home.now> wrote in message news:3F3782C3.9E94FFE1@not.home.now...

gcd wrote:


2) I'd put a 10 ohm resistor in bewtween the switch and +5V to limit the
inrush into the gate

How is gate current relevant? Have you checked the topology of a FET
lately?
Don't you mean drain or source?

Hit google for info on dv/dt induced turn-on, there is a plethora of info on
it. dv/dt induced turn-on is a result of the 'miller effect'. Using gate
resistance helps reduce miller effect.

Just to add, also keeping leads as short as possible to reduce inductance
will also help reduce transients.

 

[The real Andy]

"Mr Anish Varsani" <s363281@student.uq.edu.au> wrote in message
news:bh94mi$ifj$1@bunyip.cc.uq.edu.au...

To turn the fet on, you need a Vgs of about 10V or higher. Your source is
the
motor terminal. If you have 11V accros your motor, you'll need 21V at the
gate
to turn it on. If your using a logic level fet, you'll need a Vgs of 5V,
so 16V
at the gate. If you're dead set on having this arrangement, you can use a
high
side gate driver though it is overkill. Just swap the position of the
motor and
Nch fet so the source is now ground. This way your gate is switched
relative to
a fixed potential.

Ahh, never thought to look at whether it was a a high side switch! Good
spotting.