MessageView 421F schematic

[Robert Baer]

tonychiu06@gmail.com wrote:

Hello all,

My name is Tony Chiu. My company Xiamen Hongfa Sales Co., Ltd is a
manufacturer and exporter of relay, relay socket, push button switch,
rocker switches. We've gained great sucess in China and planning to
expend our business worldwidely. Anyone can give me some ideas as how
to locate the distributors or agents?


Nice day!

DigiKey and Mouser are two large catalog distributers here in the US.

 

[tonychiu06@gmail.com]

On 5ÔÂ11ČŐ, ÉĎÎç12Ęą10ˇÖ, Robert Baer <robertb...@earthlink.net> wrote:

tonychi...@gmail.com wrote:
Hello all,

My name is Tony Chiu. My company Xiamen Hongfa Sales Co., Ltd is a
manufacturer and exporter of relay, relay socket, push button switch,
rocker switches. We've gained great sucess in China and planning to
expend our business worldwidely. Anyone can give me some ideas as how
to locate the distributors or agents?

Nice day!

DigiKey and Mouser are two large catalog distributers here in the US.

Hi, Your help is greatly appreciated!

 

[Jim Yanik]

Fred McKenzie <fmmck@aol.com> wrote in
news:fmmck-F7161E.19261021052007@nntp.aioe.org:

In article <DkQ3i.16673$p47.3147@bgtnsc04-news.ops.worldnet.att.net>,
Angelo Campanella <a.campanella@att.net> wrote:

DaveC wrote:
I know this subject of "cheap" and "calibrate" used in the same
sentence may
well be anathema to some of you but I need to verify that either my
IR temp gun is accurate or my DMM/thermocouple is, or neither.
Accuracy to 2 or 3 degrees F is fine.

One stove and one bucket of ice. Put thermometer in Boiling water.
tha's 212F (100C) (at sea level).

Put thermometer ic ice bucket that has water up to just cover the
ice. that;s 32F (0C). (We did this often in physics lab in high
school and college!)

Angelo-

I've used this technique for standard thermometers.

However, the IR gun is a different animal. Its reading is dependent
on the "emissivity" of the surface being measured. If DaveC looks at
the specs of his, he will probably see an emissivity factor mentioned
along with the accuracy data.

Fred

so stick a piece of aluminum in the water.
Use an anodized heat sink. Or use a black pot to hold the water.
Measure that.

--
Jim Yanik
jyanik
at
kua.net

 

[krw]

In article <fmmck-F7161E.19261021052007@nntp.aioe.org>, fmmck@aol.com
says...

In article <DkQ3i.16673$p47.3147@bgtnsc04-news.ops.worldnet.att.net>,
Angelo Campanella <a.campanella@att.net> wrote:

DaveC wrote:
I know this subject of "cheap" and "calibrate" used in the same sentence
may
well be anathema to some of you but I need to verify that either my IR temp
gun is accurate or my DMM/thermocouple is, or neither. Accuracy to 2 or 3
degrees F is fine.

One stove and one bucket of ice. Put thermometer in Boiling water.
tha's 212F (100C) (at sea level).

Put thermometer ic ice bucket that has water up to just cover the ice.
that;s 32F (0C). (We did this often in physics lab in high school and
college!)

Angelo-

I've used this technique for standard thermometers.

However, the IR gun is a different animal. Its reading is dependent on
the "emissivity" of the surface being measured. If DaveC looks at the
specs of his, he will probably see an emissivity factor mentioned along
with the accuracy data.

This has been discussed to death here. From the data previously
supplied, water has an emissivity of .98 which is about as close as
you're going to get to a perfect black body.

--
Keith

 

[JeffM]

was: Deep Cycle (including SLA) Battery FAQ

Bill Darden wrote:
Yeah. We all know how to use Google.

Aside from the FEW times where you actually PARTICIPATE
http://groups.google.com/groups/search?q=-Battery.FAQ.Web.pages+-Car.Battery.FAQ+-Cycle.Battery.FAQ+-Updated-version+-Latest-versions+author:Bill-Darden&scoring=d&filter=0&num=100

the bulk of you do on Usenet is SPAM.
http://groups.google.com/groups/search?q=author:Bill-Darden&scoring=d&filter=0&num=100

 

[Jim]

On 05 Jun 2007, DCA <dca860MAPS@yahooMAPS.co.uk> wrote:

Whilst we're on the topic of Dysons, anyone who owns one of the
upgright cleaners might want to have a look at these pics.

http://home-and-garden.webshots.com/album/559275985NYyQkJ

This is the second time our DC07 has bared the wires on the power
cable, this apparently happens when the cable gets sucked up by
the front brush roller. We know that we definitely haven't
vacuumed over the cable so it must have happened when we've been
using the extendable hose and the unit has maybe been dragged over
the cable.

What is more frightening though is that we were unaware on both
occasions that the wire had been damaged and had the unit being
left plugged in, the kids could have touched the bare wires.

The first time it happened, my wife got an electric shock, the
second time i had already unplugged the unit and was coiling the
cable away after using it when i noticed it.

I've spoken to Dyson about this and all they did was draw my
attention to the user instructions which say "not to vacuum over
the power cable"!!

Whilst i've had Dysons for 10 years now, i won't buying another
one. I now need to decide what alternative to buy for the safety
of my family.

What a load of absolute drivel!
No - using extendable hose would not do it because the brushes are
not rotating
The cable doesn't split itself LIKE ANY VACUUM cleaner -

My vacuum cleaner doesn't split its cable if I run over it. Not even if
I do it dozens of times. Sounds like a design fault to me. Of course a
designer might reasonably expect that a vacumm will from time to time go
over its cable. It just happens when the cleaner is turned and twisted
and moved.

Not to anticipate something as simple as that is like expecting no one
ever to scuff the paint on your front door with their shoes - it
shouldn't really happen but it definitely will happen.

it has
been DAMAGED bu running over it or dragging under a door etc.
Yes - wires give electric shocks DOHHHH. Yes, kids or anyone else
'could touch them' - that would be your fault for damaging the wire
- not Dysons. Get an earth leakage breaker to protect them which is
good for all household goods.

Using an earth lakage breaker on an ordinary domestic appliance seems a
case of overcaution to me. Nor should it really be necessary. I only
use such an RCD when I run an extension lead outdoors.

WTF did you expect Dyson to say. They're right! Now take some
responsibility yourself.
I despair!

..
..




--

groups widened to include those with people who have electrical experise

 

[Mike]

On Tue, 05 Jun 2007 20:39:35 +0100, Jim <nomail@riomail.com> wrote:

Using an earth lakage breaker on an ordinary domestic appliance seems a
case of overcaution to me. Nor should it really be necessary. I only
use such an RCD when I run an extension lead outdoors.

........because people never ever, not even since the dawn of time
ever, get electrocuted indoors.


--

 

[Michael A. Terrell]

Mike wrote:

On Tue, 05 Jun 2007 20:39:35 +0100, Jim <nomail@riomail.com> wrote:

Using an earth lakage breaker on an ordinary domestic appliance seems a
case of overcaution to me. Nor should it really be necessary. I only
use such an RCD when I run an extension lead outdoors.

.......because people never ever, not even since the dawn of time
ever, get electrocuted indoors.

How do you know? They are dead and can't tell you where they were
electrocuted.


--
Service to my country? Been there, Done that, and I've got my DD214 to
prove it.
Member of DAV #85.

Michael A. Terrell
Central Florida

 

In alt.engineering.electrical Michael A. Terrell <mike.terrell@earthlink.net> wrote:
| Mike wrote:
|>
|> On Tue, 05 Jun 2007 20:39:35 +0100, Jim <nomail@riomail.com> wrote:
|>
|> >Using an earth lakage breaker on an ordinary domestic appliance seems a
|> >case of overcaution to me. Nor should it really be necessary. I only
|> >use such an RCD when I run an extension lead outdoors.
|>
|> .......because people never ever, not even since the dawn of time
|> ever, get electrocuted indoors.
|
|
| How do you know? They are dead and can't tell you where they were
| electrocuted.

No one who has been electrocuted has every reported that it was indoors.
That's good enough for me

--
|---------------------------------------/----------------------------------|
| Phil Howard KA9WGN (ka9wgn.ham.org) / Do not send to the address below |
| first name lower case at ipal.net / spamtrap-2007-06-05-2239@ipal.net |
|------------------------------------/-------------------------------------|

 

[Geoff Winkless]

Jim wrote:

My vacuum cleaner doesn't split its cable if I run over it. Not even if
I do it dozens of times.

Ditto with my Dyson: I never knew before it was a known problem and have
probably hoovered (dysoned?) over it every time I've ever used it, from
sheer laziness.

The only thing that's ever split the cable was our puppy, who has an
innate attraction to noisy things moving backwards and forwards

Geoff

 

[Jim]

On 05 Jun 2007, Mike <nospam@nospam.com> wrote:

On Tue, 05 Jun 2007 20:39:35 +0100, Jim <nomail@riomail.com> wrote:

Using an earth lakage breaker on an ordinary domestic appliance
seems a case of overcaution to me. Nor should it really be
necessary. I only use such an RCD when I run an extension lead
outdoors.

.......because people never ever, not even since the dawn of time
ever, get electrocuted indoors.

Of course total certainty is for the obsessional.

We should look at the relative numbers who get electrocuted an
appliance's cable when used outdoors and then for appliances used
indoors.

 

On 10 Jun, 14:51, Baron <baron.nos...@linuxmainiac.nospam.net> wrote:

CWatters inscribed thus:







frank_lo...@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:1181466588.531148.57370@n15g2000prd.googlegroups.com...
I have the following Power Supply
http://www.globalspecialties.com/1302b.html

I can adjust the voltage by rotating the knob but I can't seem to
do the same for the current. When I rotate the knob, the current
stays at zero Ampere. Is the unit broken or am I doing something
wrong here?

Frank

Have you got a load connected? If not no current will flow. Try
connecting a 12v light bulb of around 10 to 20W. Set the output
voltage to 12V and the current limit to max. The bulb should draw
around 800mA(10W) or 1.6A (20W). Then you can wind the current limit
down to see what happens. Note that setting a lower current limit
than the bulb draws will reduce the output voltage. That's how they
limit the current.

Note that you should probably treat the current knob as a safety
device to limit the power in the even of a fault in the load eg When
hooking up a new circuit you have built for the first time. It also
protects the output of the power supply if you accidentally short
circuit the output.

It's not allways possible operate a bench power supply in "current
limit mode" continuously as some power supplies can overheat. Read
the instructions for your model. Some models are ok with this.

I have one! That is exactly how it works. Current limiting is great
for testing small thermister's using self heating.

--
Best Regards:
Baron.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

It may be of interest to you, that some portable TV's well some of the
older ones, that were rated 12-24 volts, that as you inclreased the
supply volts, say from 12 to 24, then the current falls. I know this
goes agains ohms law, but they don't work like that! To keep the
wattage about the same, the current has to fall. This is achieved
using a dc-dc converter. If anyone wants to know how these work, just
ask.

Cheers

Rod

 

On 10 Jun, 15:15, Rodney.Marri...@googlemail.com wrote:

On 10 Jun, 14:51, Baron <baron.nos...@linuxmainiac.nospam.net> wrote:





CWatters inscribed thus:

frank_lo...@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:1181466588.531148.57370@n15g2000prd.googlegroups.com...
I have the following Power Supply
http://www.globalspecialties.com/1302b.html

I can adjust the voltage by rotating the knob but I can't seem to
do the same for the current. When I rotate the knob, the current
stays at zero Ampere. Is the unit broken or am I doing something
wrong here?

Frank

Have you got a load connected? If not no current will flow. Try
connecting a 12v light bulb of around 10 to 20W. Set the output
voltage to 12V and the current limit to max. The bulb should draw
around 800mA(10W) or 1.6A (20W). Then you can wind the current limit
down to see what happens. Note that setting a lower current limit
than the bulb draws will reduce the output voltage. That's how they
limit the current.

Note that you should probably treat the current knob as a safety
device to limit the power in the even of a fault in the load eg When
hooking up a new circuit you have built for the first time. It also
protects the output of the power supply if you accidentally short
circuit the output.

It's not allways possible operate a bench power supply in "current
limit mode" continuously as some power supplies can overheat. Read
the instructions for your model. Some models are ok with this.

I have one! That is exactly how it works. Current limiting is great
for testing small thermister's using self heating.

--
Best Regards:
Baron.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

It may be of interest to you, that some portable TV's well some of the
older ones, that were rated 12-24 volts, that as you inclreased the
supply volts, say from 12 to 24, then the current falls. I know this
goes agains ohms law, but they don't work like that! To keep the
wattage about the same, the current has to fall. This is achieved
using a dc-dc converter. If anyone wants to know how these work, just
ask.

Cheers

Rod- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Incidentally, current limiting power supplies, use a very low value
resistor, typ 0.5 ohm, which is in series with the load. The volts
drop across this (usually hi-stab) reisitor is proportional to the
current. This is often monitored by an op-amp in a differential amp
mode, whos out put is used to bias a contol transistor, and finally
the main regulator. This control circuit, is usually inside a
dedicated IC. The current limit adjustment would be in the form of a
potential divider, on the inverting or non-inverting input to the op
amp.

Rod

 

[DaveM]

"Fred Abse" <excretatauris@cerebrumconfus.it> wrote in message
newsan.2007.06.17.11.55.41.723377@cerebrumconfus.it...

On Fri, 15 Jun 2007 06:24:54 -0400, JW wrote:

I am looking for some vintage AC power cords for older HP test equipment.
I have a number of pieces of test equipment, and only one power cord. The
only marking on it is "Electricord". It is a three conductor cord that
uses three round female sockets on the end that terminates at the
equipment

If it's the one I think it is, Sphere Research have them:

http://www.sphere.bc.ca/test/cables.html

8' long.

45 in stock.

Eighteen bucks a pop.

--
"Electricity is of two kinds, positive and negative. The difference
is, I presume, that one comes a little more expensive, but is more
durable; the other is a cheaper thing, but the moths get into it."
(Stephen Leacock)

Take a look at www.Mouser.com stock number 686-17952. Page 891 in their online
catalog, at $9.96 each. $8.96 each for qty of 25 or more.

--
Dave M
MasonDG44 at comcast dot net (Just substitute the appropriate characters in the
address)

Life is like a roll of toilet paper; the closer to the end, the faster it goes.

 

[Fred Abse]

On Sun, 17 Jun 2007 09:17:34 -0400, DaveM wrote:

Take a look at www.Mouser.com stock number 686-17952. Page 891 in their online
catalog, at $9.96 each. $8.96 each for qty of 25 or more.

That's more attractive.

I wonder if Walter knows

--
"Electricity is of two kinds, positive and negative. The difference
is, I presume, that one comes a little more expensive, but is more
durable; the other is a cheaper thing, but the moths get into it."
(Stephen Leacock)

 

[networkinghardware.net]

ATTN Group: JeffM , Don Bowey and Michael A. Terrell are the same
person or 3 sociopaths

I just did some, check out links below
this guy/guys are making problems all over the web, 1000's of
negative
bashings, hate posts all over bloggs and usenet groups

Mike aka Don do you have nothing better to do with your life ???

get therapy or study meditation

http://www.google.com/search?client=safari&rls=en&q=%22Don+Bowey%22+%...

http://www.google.com/search?client=safari&rls=en&q=%22Michael+A.+Ter...

http://groups.google.com/group/rec.radio.swap/msg/3f2cb7a1146eea2c

http://forums.speedguide.net/showthread.php?t=224993&page=4

http://www.epanorama.net/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?p=422286&sid=e83977a966...

http://www.nnseek.com/e/rec.radio.amateur.equipment/don_bowey_4140960...

http://groups.google.ws/group/sci.electronics.design/browse_thread/th...


On May 29, 7:32 pm, Bill Darden <i...@batteryfaq.org> wrote:

The Car and Deep Cycle Battery FAQ Web pages have been moved. They
are located athttp://www.batteryfaq.org/. The latest version is 7.0,
dated May 28, 2007.

The FAQ is consumer oriented with answers to questions about lead-acid
batteries for car, motorcycle, power sports, truck, boat, marine,
recreational vehicle, solar, and other starting and deep cycle
applications. The Web pages also contain brand names, tips,
manufacturer contact information, technical references and hyperlinks.

Kindest regards,

BiLL......

 

[JeffM]

was: Deep Cycle (including SLA) Battery FAQ
(and should have been threaded under
"He rarely *participates* in groups--but boy does he SPAM them")

networkinghardware.net" <YoungbloodBenny@ gmail.com> wrote:

ATTN Group: JeffM , Don Bowey and Michael A. Terrell
are the same person

The moron doesn't know how to read a header.

or 3 sociopaths

The moron thinks there is

something *more* anti-social than SPAM on Usenet.

I just did some, check out links below
this guy/guys are making problems all over the web,

Pointing out morons who can't follow simple guidelines

is NOT *making* problems.
It is **responding** to problems.
People like you need to stop acting like morons
and do their homework BEFORE posting.

(The moron Benny Youngblood also thinks that top-posting is
acceptable.)

 

[Michael A. Terrell]

"!!Lou" wrote:

This is not a "For sale" newsgroup. Any electronics related sale
messages belong on <news:misc.industry.electronics.marketplace> or
<http://groups.google.com/group/news:misc.industry.electronics.marketplace?hl=en>
for Google users. misc.industry.electronics.marketplace was created for
that purpose.

http://www.faqs.org/ftp/usenet/news.announce.newgroups/sci/sci.electronics-reorg


--
Service to my country? Been there, Done that, and I've got my DD214 to
prove it.
Member of DAV #85.

Michael A. Terrell
Central Florida

 

[You]

In article <46A2DC53.4855003C@earthlink.net>,
"Michael A. Terrell" <mike.terrell@earthlink.net> wrote:

"!!Lou" wrote:


This is not a "For sale" newsgroup. Any electronics related sale
messages belong on <news:misc.industry.electronics.marketplace> or
http://groups.google.com/group/news:misc.industry.electronics.marketplace?hl=
en
for Google users. misc.industry.electronics.marketplace was created for
that purpose.

http://www.faqs.org/ftp/usenet/news.announce.newgroups/sci/sci.electronics-reo
rg

I have been reading you BS for months now. Are you 14 years old or what?
Nobody likes a Self-appointed Usenet Cop..... if you want to be a COP,
join a Law Enforcment Agency.... otherwise..... Blow it out your ASS....

 

[Michael A. Terrell]

You wrote:

In article <46A2DC53.4855003C@earthlink.net>,
"Michael A. Terrell" <mike.terrell@earthlink.net> wrote:

"!!Lou" wrote:


This is not a "For sale" newsgroup. Any electronics related sale
messages belong on <news:misc.industry.electronics.marketplace> or
http://groups.google.com/group/news:misc.industry.electronics.marketplace?hl=
en
for Google users. misc.industry.electronics.marketplace was created for
that purpose.

http://www.faqs.org/ftp/usenet/news.announce.newgroups/sci/sci.electronics-reo
rg

I have been reading you BS for months now. Are you 14 years old or what?

You're probably closer to 14. Your IQ, that is.

Nobody likes a Self-appointed Usenet Cop..... if you want to be a COP,
join a Law Enforcment Agency.... otherwise..... Blow it out your ASS....

Yawn. So, you don't like the newsgroup charter, or you don't think
that it applies? By charter, advertisements are not allowed in
news:sci.electronics.equipment so get over yourself.


http://www.faqs.org/ftp/usenet/news.announce.newgroups/sci/sci.electronics-reorg


BTW, if you ever do blow ANYTHING out your ass, there will be nothing
left but a toxic stain.


--
Service to my country? Been there, Done that, and I've got my DD214 to
prove it.
Member of DAV #85.

Michael A. Terrell
Central Florida