On Wed, 05 Feb 2020 16:21:06 -0800, Joerg <news@analogconsultants.com
wrote:
On 2020-02-05 16:06, Lasse Langwadt Christensen wrote:
torsdag den 6. februar 2020 kl. 00.56.31 UTC+1 skrev Joerg:
Where does one get dental burs? The ones sold for Dremel tools are a
little rough.
they are all over ebay for next to nothing, they also have the highspeed
spindles for cheap if you want to moonlight as a dentist
Indeed! John, which kind do you prefer? WR-13? Or the longer TR style?
https://www.dropbox.com/s/0d5vvnqkh1bkugy/Burr_1.JPG?raw=1
These were from ebay. They have a soft rounded tip, which carves the
copper really nicely. Clean up the carvings with a Scotchbrite pad,
then some SoftScrub. Gold plated FR4 solders beautifully and won't
tarnish.
Thanks piglet, I do have some parts from my previous life,
Huh, OK I don't know if this is true for the little grindingOn 2020-02-05 16:36, John Larkin wrote:
On Wed, 05 Feb 2020 16:21:06 -0800, Joerg <news@analogconsultants.com
wrote:
On 2020-02-05 16:06, Lasse Langwadt Christensen wrote:
torsdag den 6. februar 2020 kl. 00.56.31 UTC+1 skrev Joerg:
Where does one get dental burs? The ones sold for Dremel tools are a
little rough.
they are all over ebay for next to nothing, they also have the highspeed
spindles for cheap if you want to moonlight as a dentist
Indeed! John, which kind do you prefer? WR-13? Or the longer TR style?
https://www.dropbox.com/s/0d5vvnqkh1bkugy/Burr_1.JPG?raw=1
These were from ebay. They have a soft rounded tip, which carves the
copper really nicely. Clean up the carvings with a Scotchbrite pad,
then some SoftScrub. Gold plated FR4 solders beautifully and won't
tarnish.
Thanks. The 7404 bur looks good for small cuts. So far I've done it with
the little cutting disks. Works great but occasionally a disk breaks and
the shards fly fast. You almost need full-face protection instead of
just googles but it could still hit the neck.
On Thursday, February 6, 2020 at 1:57:29 PM UTC-5, Joerg wrote:
On 2020-02-05 16:36, John Larkin wrote:
On Wed, 05 Feb 2020 16:21:06 -0800, Joerg <news@analogconsultants.com
wrote:
On 2020-02-05 16:06, Lasse Langwadt Christensen wrote:
torsdag den 6. februar 2020 kl. 00.56.31 UTC+1 skrev Joerg:
Where does one get dental burs? The ones sold for Dremel tools are a
little rough.
they are all over ebay for next to nothing, they also have the highspeed
spindles for cheap if you want to moonlight as a dentist
Indeed! John, which kind do you prefer? WR-13? Or the longer TR style?
https://www.dropbox.com/s/0d5vvnqkh1bkugy/Burr_1.JPG?raw=1
These were from ebay. They have a soft rounded tip, which carves the
copper really nicely. Clean up the carvings with a Scotchbrite pad,
then some SoftScrub. Gold plated FR4 solders beautifully and won't
tarnish.
Thanks. The 7404 bur looks good for small cuts. So far I've done it with
the little cutting disks. Works great but occasionally a disk breaks and
the shards fly fast. You almost need full-face protection instead of
just googles but it could still hit the neck.
Huh, OK I don't know if this is true for the little grinding
disks, but the shop instructor always warned against any
non-ferrous metal on the grinder.. cause the metal just
loads up the grinding wheel, rather than wearing it away..
(too soft.)
Which I've seen when using (hand held) grinding wheels on
brass and such. (I'm not without sin in the use of
grinding wheels. :^)
On 2020-02-05 16:36, John Larkin wrote:
On Wed, 05 Feb 2020 16:21:06 -0800, Joerg <news@analogconsultants.com
wrote:
On 2020-02-05 16:06, Lasse Langwadt Christensen wrote:
torsdag den 6. februar 2020 kl. 00.56.31 UTC+1 skrev Joerg:
Where does one get dental burs? The ones sold for Dremel tools are a
little rough.
they are all over ebay for next to nothing, they also have the highspeed
spindles for cheap if you want to moonlight as a dentist
Indeed! John, which kind do you prefer? WR-13? Or the longer TR style?
https://www.dropbox.com/s/0d5vvnqkh1bkugy/Burr_1.JPG?raw=1
These were from ebay. They have a soft rounded tip, which carves the
copper really nicely. Clean up the carvings with a Scotchbrite pad,
then some SoftScrub. Gold plated FR4 solders beautifully and won't
tarnish.
Thanks. The 7404 bur looks good for small cuts. So far I've done it with
the little cutting disks. Works great but occasionally a disk breaks and
the shards fly fast. You almost need full-face protection instead of
just googles but it could still hit the neck.
The upside of using a disk is that you'll get straight lines without
using a guide. Though that only matters aesthetically.
On 2020-02-06 11:18, George Herold wrote:
On Wednesday, February 5, 2020 at 10:07:13 PM UTC-5, speff wrote:
On Wednesday, 5 February 2020 11:42:51 UTC-5, George Herold
wrote:
Hi all, so this is a fun question. I'm buying a bunch of parts
from mouser for a home lab. ('Cause they have the laser diodes I
want.) So I favor through hole parts, (for proto-typing) R's,
C's, transistors...
R's- 1% MF 0.25W 10,30,...300k, 1M, 10M, 100M (the last two not
MF.) C's- COG's 1 pf to ?0.01 uF (1, 3.3, 10..) X7R 0.1uF bypass
caps Al-electro 100uF/ 100V
2n4401/03 2n7000 lnd150 lm317, LM337
What else am I going to want? (forgetting)
George H.
Hi, George
There are some really cool Chinese kits with all kinds of sensors
an Arduino Uno clone, motors, solderless breadboard, alpha LCD
display and so on for less than $30, all in one plastic box the
size of a book. Amazon has them. Arduino is a good way to prototype
with chips that need SPI or I2C to configure them, many of the
manufacturers supply code and it's dead simple to use with the free
IDE.
Thanks Speff, I do have an old arduino kit or two, I got for my some
a few years ago..
For random jellybean parts I suggest diodes like 1N4148, BAT54
(smt), 1N5819. Transistors 2N4401/3, MPSA42, 2N7000, BSS84, AO3400,
AO3401, or their SMT equivalents in the first few cases. A few
regulators. LM324/358 op-amps. Some good op-amps like AD8676. Some
rail-to-rail input/output op-amps, maybe a couple high voltage
rail-to-rail in/out op-amps, some zero-drift op-amps. An
instrumentation amplifier or two.
Don't go nuts on the more expensive stuff, chances are if you have
a project going there will be one or more parts you'll need to buy
even if it's some oddball resistor, so you're paying for the
shipping anyway and you may as well use Digikey or Mouser as your
stockroom. It really doesn't make sense to try to stock
everything.
It's probably worthwhile to buy some resistor kits and ceramic
capacitor kits and electrolytic capacitor kits maybe if you use
them (I do).
Yeah I've become less of a tant. cap fan over the years.
With the wide range of ESR available in alpo caps, you can find
something to suit just about any regulator. I use tants in protos
because I have hundreds in the drawer, but I very rarely design them
into anything these days.
Alpos rock. (100% aluminum and aluminum byproducts.)
Yeah, I don't know what happened to tant's.
On Thursday, February 6, 2020 at 3:27:19 PM UTC-5, Phil Hobbs wrote:
On 2020-02-06 11:18, George Herold wrote:
On Wednesday, February 5, 2020 at 10:07:13 PM UTC-5, speff wrote:
On Wednesday, 5 February 2020 11:42:51 UTC-5, George Herold
wrote:
Hi all, so this is a fun question. I'm buying a bunch of parts
from mouser for a home lab. ('Cause they have the laser diodes I
want.) So I favor through hole parts, (for proto-typing) R's,
C's, transistors...
R's- 1% MF 0.25W 10,30,...300k, 1M, 10M, 100M (the last two not
MF.) C's- COG's 1 pf to ?0.01 uF (1, 3.3, 10..) X7R 0.1uF bypass
caps Al-electro 100uF/ 100V
2n4401/03 2n7000 lnd150 lm317, LM337
What else am I going to want? (forgetting)
George H.
Hi, George
There are some really cool Chinese kits with all kinds of sensors
an Arduino Uno clone, motors, solderless breadboard, alpha LCD
display and so on for less than $30, all in one plastic box the
size of a book. Amazon has them. Arduino is a good way to prototype
with chips that need SPI or I2C to configure them, many of the
manufacturers supply code and it's dead simple to use with the free
IDE.
Thanks Speff, I do have an old arduino kit or two, I got for my some
a few years ago..
For random jellybean parts I suggest diodes like 1N4148, BAT54
(smt), 1N5819. Transistors 2N4401/3, MPSA42, 2N7000, BSS84, AO3400,
AO3401, or their SMT equivalents in the first few cases. A few
regulators. LM324/358 op-amps. Some good op-amps like AD8676. Some
rail-to-rail input/output op-amps, maybe a couple high voltage
rail-to-rail in/out op-amps, some zero-drift op-amps. An
instrumentation amplifier or two.
Don't go nuts on the more expensive stuff, chances are if you have
a project going there will be one or more parts you'll need to buy
even if it's some oddball resistor, so you're paying for the
shipping anyway and you may as well use Digikey or Mouser as your
stockroom. It really doesn't make sense to try to stock
everything.
It's probably worthwhile to buy some resistor kits and ceramic
capacitor kits and electrolytic capacitor kits maybe if you use
them (I do).
Yeah I've become less of a tant. cap fan over the years.
With the wide range of ESR available in alpo caps, you can find
something to suit just about any regulator. I use tants in protos
because I have hundreds in the drawer, but I very rarely design them
into anything these days.
Alpos rock. (100% aluminum and aluminum byproducts.)
Yeah, I don't know what happened to tant's.
So we had an old instrument... no longer made, but still
supported. ~2-30 yrs old. I got one back that stopped working...
PS rail shorted. I traced it down to a tant.
16V tant on a 15V rail. There were ~100 tant's in each instrument.
~200 instruments... That is the one old time tant failure I know
about. Would anyone pass a 16V tant on 15V rail these days?
George H.
One super-nice proto solution for faster stuff is blob board with 0.5-mm
On Thursday, February 6, 2020 at 5:15:13 PM UTC-5, Phil Hobbs wrote:
On 2020-02-06 17:07, George Herold wrote:
On Thursday, February 6, 2020 at 3:27:19 PM UTC-5, Phil Hobbs wrote:
On 2020-02-06 11:18, George Herold wrote:
On Wednesday, February 5, 2020 at 10:07:13 PM UTC-5, speff wrote:
On Wednesday, 5 February 2020 11:42:51 UTC-5, George Herold
wrote:
Hi all, so this is a fun question. I'm buying a bunch of parts
from mouser for a home lab. ('Cause they have the laser diodes I
want.) So I favor through hole parts, (for proto-typing) R's,
C's, transistors...
R's- 1% MF 0.25W 10,30,...300k, 1M, 10M, 100M (the last two not
MF.) C's- COG's 1 pf to ?0.01 uF (1, 3.3, 10..) X7R 0.1uF bypass
caps Al-electro 100uF/ 100V
2n4401/03 2n7000 lnd150 lm317, LM337
What else am I going to want? (forgetting)
George H.
Hi, George
There are some really cool Chinese kits with all kinds of sensors
an Arduino Uno clone, motors, solderless breadboard, alpha LCD
display and so on for less than $30, all in one plastic box the
size of a book. Amazon has them. Arduino is a good way to prototype
with chips that need SPI or I2C to configure them, many of the
manufacturers supply code and it's dead simple to use with the free
IDE.
Thanks Speff, I do have an old arduino kit or two, I got for my some
a few years ago..
For random jellybean parts I suggest diodes like 1N4148, BAT54
(smt), 1N5819. Transistors 2N4401/3, MPSA42, 2N7000, BSS84, AO3400,
AO3401, or their SMT equivalents in the first few cases. A few
regulators. LM324/358 op-amps. Some good op-amps like AD8676. Some
rail-to-rail input/output op-amps, maybe a couple high voltage
rail-to-rail in/out op-amps, some zero-drift op-amps. An
instrumentation amplifier or two.
Don't go nuts on the more expensive stuff, chances are if you have
a project going there will be one or more parts you'll need to buy
even if it's some oddball resistor, so you're paying for the
shipping anyway and you may as well use Digikey or Mouser as your
stockroom. It really doesn't make sense to try to stock
everything.
It's probably worthwhile to buy some resistor kits and ceramic
capacitor kits and electrolytic capacitor kits maybe if you use
them (I do).
Yeah I've become less of a tant. cap fan over the years.
With the wide range of ESR available in alpo caps, you can find
something to suit just about any regulator. I use tants in protos
because I have hundreds in the drawer, but I very rarely design them
into anything these days.
Alpos rock. (100% aluminum and aluminum byproducts.)
Yeah, I don't know what happened to tant's.
So we had an old instrument... no longer made, but still
supported. ~2-30 yrs old. I got one back that stopped working...
PS rail shorted. I traced it down to a tant.
16V tant on a 15V rail. There were ~100 tant's in each instrument.
~200 instruments... That is the one old time tant failure I know
about. Would anyone pass a 16V tant on 15V rail these days?
George H.
A _hundred_ tants in each instrument? What was it, ENIAC?
Hmm well there were a bunch stitched into power supplies on each board.
~four supplies per board, a few tants per supply rail, maybe less than 100.
more than ten.
caps.
George H.
I still remember being surprised by the 16V rating on the cap.
(not my design.) At the same time I'd use 16V Al's in
15V supplies. Is that still done, or do you derate Al's too?