Home lab parts

[Lasse Langwadt Christense]

torsdag den 6. februar 2020 kl. 01.49.46 UTC+1 skrev mpm:

On Wednesday, February 5, 2020 at 11:42:51 AM UTC-5, George Herold wrote:
Hi all, so this is a fun question.
I'm buying a bunch of parts from mouser for a home lab.

My "go-to" parts bin always has some Simple Switchers (LM2575, etc..)
These come in fixed or adjustable voltage varieties (programmed with resistors)

when you need a switcher for a few prototypes it is much simpler to just
use a dirt cheap module, as an example:

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/282264516685

 

[mpm]

On Wednesday, February 5, 2020 at 11:42:51 AM UTC-5, George Herold wrote:

In addition to Mouser, Digikey, et. al.
There's mpja.com -- although you can also get a lot of what they carry on Amazon.
A lot of Chinese stuff, but a surprising amount of it is actually quite acceptable.

Cheap bench power supplies, for example.

 

[Clifford Heath]

On 6/2/20 10:56 am, Joerg wrote:

On 2020-02-05 09:56, George Herold wrote:
On Wednesday, February 5, 2020 at 12:08:26 PM UTC-5,
jla...@highlandsniptechnology.com wrote:
On Wed, 5 Feb 2020 08:42:46 -0800 (PST), George Herold
ggherold@gmail.com> wrote:
Hi all, so this is a fun question.
I'm buying a bunch of parts from mouser for a home lab.
('Cause they have the laser diodes I want.)
So I favor through hole parts, (for proto-typing)

I'd seriously consider 0805-size SMT instead of through-hole. I find
that prototyping goes faster with those because I never have to turn
around the board.

I find the same. Also buy some PCB with a grid of individual PTH. I have
some on a 0.05" grid, good for small parts. No ground plane for RF work
of course.

You can buy complete R and C sets in plastic books (like 20/ea of a
thousand values) for $50 on AliExpress. NPH caps too, but thy cost a
little more.

>>>> What else am I going to want? (forgetting)

Here are some of mine:

Transistors:
2n7002, IRLML6302PBF, BC327, BC848, MMBT2222, MMTH10, BF862, BFR93A

Diodes:
1N4148W, BAV99, HSMS-286K, varactors, zeners

RF:
SA612, AD8307, crystals, MMICs

Analog:
MC33202, AD8009, LMH6609, others

Power supply:
AMS1119, (need new buck&boost choices), USB power packs (for battery ops)

Connectors:
SMA, USB, U.FL

Compute:
Arduino Nano with my 3v3 conversion, STM32s

Get a bunch of coin envelopes and Danish Butter Cookie cans to stash
things in.

I cut the bottom off our (square base) HDPE milk bottles, to the depth
of a set of drawers. They make zero-price tubs that are easy to store
and rearrange. Use stick-on paper labels.

CH

 

[mpm]

On Wednesday, February 5, 2020 at 8:08:04 PM UTC-5, Lasse Langwadt Christensen wrote:

when you need a switcher for a few prototypes it is much simpler to just
use a dirt cheap module, as an example:

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/282264516685

Good point. And I agree!
I had forgotten about those.
I usually have about a half-dozen of the 3-amp adjustable ones around.
Can't beat the price and convenience (although the "convenience" part of that could see rough days ahead what with the Chinese New Year and coronavirus problems..) Stock up boys!

 

[speff]

On Wednesday, 5 February 2020 11:42:51 UTC-5, George Herold wrote:

Hi all, so this is a fun question.
I'm buying a bunch of parts from mouser for a home lab.
('Cause they have the laser diodes I want.)
So I favor through hole parts, (for proto-typing)
R's, C's, transistors...

R's- 1% MF 0.25W 10,30,...300k, 1M, 10M, 100M
(the last two not MF.)
C's- COG's 1 pf to ?0.01 uF (1, 3.3, 10..)
X7R 0.1uF bypass caps
Al-electro 100uF/ 100V

2n4401/03
2n7000
lnd150
lm317, LM337

What else am I going to want? (forgetting)

George H.

Hi, George

There are some really cool Chinese kits with all kinds of sensors
an Arduino Uno clone, motors, solderless breadboard, alpha LCD display
and so on for less than $30, all in one plastic box the size of a book.
Amazon has them. Arduino is a good way to prototype with chips that need SPI or
I2C to configure them, many of the manufacturers supply code and it's dead
simple to use with the free IDE.

For random jellybean parts I suggest diodes like 1N4148, BAT54 (smt), 1N5819.
Transistors 2N4401/3, MPSA42, 2N7000, BSS84, AO3400, AO3401, or their
SMT equivalents in the first few cases. A few regulators. LM324/358 op-amps.
Some good op-amps like AD8676. Some rail-to-rail input/output op-amps,
maybe a couple high voltage rail-to-rail in/out op-amps, some zero-drift op-amps. An instrumentation amplifier or two.

Don't go nuts on the more expensive stuff, chances are if you have a project
going there will be one or more parts you'll need to buy even if it's some
oddball resistor, so you're paying for the shipping anyway and you may as well use Digikey or Mouser as your stockroom. It really doesn't make sense to try
to stock everything.

It's probably worthwhile to buy some resistor kits and ceramic capacitor kits
and electrolytic capacitor kits maybe if you use them (I do).

Best regards,
Spehro Pefhany

 

[Jasen Betts]

On 2020-02-05, George Herold <ggherold@gmail.com> wrote:

On Wednesday, February 5, 2020 at 12:08:26 PM UTC-5, jla...@highlandsniptechnology.com wrote:
On Wed, 5 Feb 2020 08:42:46 -0800 (PST), George Herold
ggherold@gmail.com> wrote:

Hi all, so this is a fun question.
I'm buying a bunch of parts from mouser for a home lab.
('Cause they have the laser diodes I want.)
So I favor through hole parts, (for proto-typing)
R's, C's, transistors...

R's- 1% MF 0.25W 10,30,...300k, 1M, 10M, 100M
(the last two not MF.)
C's- COG's 1 pf to ?0.01 uF (1, 3.3, 10..)
X7R 0.1uF bypass caps
Al-electro 100uF/ 100V

2n4401/03
2n7000
lnd150
lm317, LM337

What else am I going to want? (forgetting)

op-amps. comparators,
tl431

From the grey market (aliexpress etc.):

resistor kit
big bag of diodes
capacitor selection
ceramic and electrolytic, possilby film too.
prototyping board
hook up wire.
dc-dc modules. "mini360" is hard to beat at 50c each.
isolated dc-dc modules
panel hardware
connectors,switches,knobs,and indicators
enclosures
microcontroller mudules (arduino clones etc)

extra resistors and capacitors in your favourite sizes, buy a few
hundered and get the volume discount.

pin headers


currently there could be some delay on stuff from China.

Ok my mouser part list is growing. I can probably share it
if there is any interest.
Oh here's a thing.
the cheap LM317HVT (maybe should have an A in there?)
LM317AHVT (60V_in TO-220)
from On-semi are EOL. (I was going to get 3, but ordered 10 :^)

Use a LM2596HV module ($1) followd by a capacitance multiplier. (if the
ripple bothers you)

--
Jasen.

 

[Jasen Betts]

On 2020-02-06, Lasse Langwadt Christensen <langwadt@fonz.dk> wrote:

torsdag den 6. februar 2020 kl. 01.49.46 UTC+1 skrev mpm:
On Wednesday, February 5, 2020 at 11:42:51 AM UTC-5, George Herold wrote:
Hi all, so this is a fun question.
I'm buying a bunch of parts from mouser for a home lab.

My "go-to" parts bin always has some Simple Switchers (LM2575, etc..)
These come in fixed or adjustable voltage varieties (programmed with resistors)

when you need a switcher for a few prototypes it is much simpler to just
use a dirt cheap module, as an example:

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/282264516685

You know those people making thousands doing drop shipping - that's one of
them.

go to the source: https://www.qskj.cc/
https://www.qskj.cc/shop/product/1941621-mini-dc-dc-TRIMMMED-qs-1205cme-3a-79148

Or try these alternatives at 30p each.
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32802454399.html

Or buy 10 for a discount
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1879418345.html

--
Jasen.

 

On Thursday, 6 February 2020 00:43:19 UTC, mpm wrote:

On Wednesday, February 5, 2020 at 2:54:39 PM UTC-5, Phil Hobbs wrote:
Kester 44 solder

I'm glad you mention that.
Question: Is Kester-44 the way to go if you want a clean joint, easy solderability, and you don't need lead-free? In 63/37 obviously.

I recently reviewed the Kester website (for wire solders, not interested in bars), and I really didn't get a complete picture of what's "best" - only some generalized statements as to the reactivity of the rosin used.

For general all-purpose electric repair (through hole and SMD), is "44" the right stuff to get? (I'm getting low..)

IME there's not been much solder that hasn't been fine. Of course now is the one time I have some that isn't, but it was an almost freebie that came from somewhere I'd not normally buy this sort of thing from. It works fine with the iron set to 400C.


NT

 

On Wednesday, 5 February 2020 16:42:51 UTC, George Herold wrote:

Hi all, so this is a fun question.
I'm buying a bunch of parts from mouser for a home lab.
('Cause they have the laser diodes I want.)
So I favor through hole parts, (for proto-typing)
R's, C's, transistors...

R's- 1% MF 0.25W 10,30,...300k, 1M, 10M, 100M
(the last two not MF.)
C's- COG's 1 pf to ?0.01 uF (1, 3.3, 10..)
X7R 0.1uF bypass caps
Al-electro 100uF/ 100V

2n4401/03
2n7000
lnd150
lm317, LM337

What else am I going to want? (forgetting)

George H.

Totally depends on what you're doing & what you've got. But a few with little or no mention so far...

Matrix board. Crude & dated, but handy for quick very small circuits.

Cardboard boxes. Next time you're going to chuck out electronic stuff, toss the pcb in the box. Saves so much ordering & waiting for the post time.

Storage containers MUST be burstproof. Don't be tempted to buy anything that isn't, no matter how good a deal it might seem to be.

The LM324 is full of problems but crazy cheap & still my most used opamp.

An LED on the end of nearly a foot of bellwire is very handy for seeing inside tight spaces. Speaker wire to connect it to the psu.

Hoard a boxful of wallwarts. They'll be useful. Always rubber band the lead round the body, you'll regret not doing in the end.

Testgear is another subject.


NT

 

On Thursday, 6 February 2020 00:52:59 UTC, mpm wrote:

On Wednesday, February 5, 2020 at 11:42:51 AM UTC-5, George Herold wrote:

In addition to Mouser, Digikey, et. al.
There's mpja.com -- although you can also get a lot of what they carry on Amazon.
A lot of Chinese stuff, but a surprising amount of it is actually quite acceptable.

Cheap bench power supplies, for example.

I've heard nothing good about cheap Chinese bench psus, but not tried one myself.

 

For general all-purpose electric repair (through hole and SMD), is "44"
the right stuff to get?  (I'm getting low..)

Yup. It's especially good for repairs and working with old parts because it chews right through the oxide without leaving corrosive residue.

Cheers

Phil Hobbs

 

pcdhobbs@gmail.com wrote in
news:e36c95e9-eb3b-4651-9110-4d3e3a326855@googlegroups.com:

For general all-purpose electric repair (through hole and SMD), is
"44" the right stuff to get?  (I'm getting low..)

Yup. It's especially good for repairs and working with old parts
because it chews right through the oxide without leaving corrosive
residue.

Cheers

Phil Hobbs

I had/have (in my Boss's garage) a box full of kester 44 and other.
Even silver based and a couple other non-lead alloys. Various flux.

I like flux pens too. Especially for new proto builds. No need
for paste. Just wipe 8 pads with the pen and put a teeny tiny drop
of solder on your hot tip end, and then hold the part in place with
good strong tweezers and hit the pad and the pin/leg and the
trip/drop at the same time to lock the part leg down, then do the
diagonal opposite corner. Check placement and teeny drop the
remaining pins/legs. On teeny bga or castle pin edges, one can add
teeny drops to each ball or pad and reflow the part in place with a
spot heater. Flux pens are cool, just do not soak the thing. Keep
it about a tiny bit more 'moist' than a magic marker is. Unless you
intend on full bath cleaning, that is. Then you can get that pen
sopping wet and your board too.

 

[Phil Hobbs]

On 2020-02-05 18:56, Joerg wrote:

On 2020-02-05 09:56, George Herold wrote:
On Wednesday, February 5, 2020 at 12:08:26 PM UTC-5,
jla...@highlandsniptechnology.com wrote:
On Wed, 5 Feb 2020 08:42:46 -0800 (PST), George Herold
ggherold@gmail.com> wrote:

Hi all, so this is a fun question.
I'm buying a bunch of parts from mouser for a home lab.
('Cause they have the laser diodes I want.)
So I favor through hole parts, (for proto-typing)


I'd seriously consider 0805-size SMT instead of through-hole. I find
that prototyping goes faster with those because I never have to turn
around the board.

Yuck, perf board--my least favourite method of prototyping.

Perf board is super slow, as you say, but worse than that, the protos
are flaky and the grounds are always iffy.

Dead bug rules--it's very fast and produces robust protos, with
excellent signal integrity as a bonus. Shorts are avoided by using the
bodies of resistors and capacitors to keep the wires apart. I always
gouge a notch into the pin 1 end of the package with dikes--that way I
don't make wiring errors.

The dead-bug proto I posted upthread is a triple power supply plus
two-phase lock-in amplifier that I used in the transcutaneous blood
glucose POC that I talked about here a few weeks ago.

I posted a more polished version of that story at
<https://electrooptical.net/News> (Third entry down).

Cheers

Phil Hobbs


--
Dr Philip C D Hobbs
Principal Consultant
ElectroOptical Innovations LLC / Hobbs ElectroOptics
Optics, Electro-optics, Photonics, Analog Electronics
Briarcliff Manor NY 10510

http://electrooptical.net
http://hobbs-eo.com

 

[Clive Arthur]

On 05/02/2020 16:42, George Herold wrote:

Hi all, so this is a fun question.
I'm buying a bunch of parts from mouser for a home lab.
('Cause they have the laser diodes I want.)
So I favor through hole parts, (for proto-typing)
R's, C's, transistors...

R's- 1% MF 0.25W 10,30,...300k, 1M, 10M, 100M
(the last two not MF.)
C's- COG's 1 pf to ?0.01 uF (1, 3.3, 10..)
X7R 0.1uF bypass caps
Al-electro 100uF/ 100V

2n4401/03
2n7000
lnd150
lm317, LM337

What else am I going to want? (forgetting)

George H.

A box full of scrap boards. Many's the time I've lifted a part from an
old board rather than wait for next-day delivery.

--
Cheers
Clive

 

[Gerhard Hoffmann]

Am 06.02.20 um 15:40 schrieb Phil Hobbs:

On 2020-02-05 18:56, Joerg wrote:
On 2020-02-05 09:56, George Herold wrote:
On Wednesday, February 5, 2020 at 12:08:26 PM UTC-5,
jla...@highlandsniptechnology.com wrote:
On Wed, 5 Feb 2020 08:42:46 -0800 (PST), George Herold
ggherold@gmail.com> wrote:

Hi all, so this is a fun question.
I'm buying a bunch of parts from mouser for a home lab.
('Cause they have the laser diodes I want.)
So I favor through hole parts, (for proto-typing)


I'd seriously consider 0805-size SMT instead of through-hole. I find
that prototyping goes faster with those because I never have to turn
around the board.

Yuck, perf board--my least favourite method of prototyping.

Perf board is super slow, as you say, but worse than that, the protos
are flaky and the grounds are always iffy.

No. GND on perf board can be excellent.
And there is nothing flaky.


Phase noise adder to oscillator signal:
<
https://www.flickr.com/photos/137684711@N07/30908039486/in/album-72157662535945536/
>

< non-differential half of Win's ribbon preamp:
<
https://www.flickr.com/photos/137684711@N07/49496769983/in/album-72157662535945536/
>

AOE3 transistor noise measurement setup:
<
https://www.flickr.com/photos/137684711@N07/49496770418/in/album-72157662535945536/

FFT analyzer with Beaglebone Black and some pre-etched macros:
(The macros are Altium snippets to be recycled for the final board,
LTC 2500-32 ADC + Coolrunner interface)

<
https://www.flickr.com/photos/137684711@N07/49497264821/in/album-72157662535945536/

Cheers, Gerhard

 

[Piglet]

On 06/02/2020 15:55, George Herold wrote:

On Wednesday, February 5, 2020 at 2:54:39 PM UTC-5, Phil Hobbs wrote:
On 2020-02-05 11:42, George Herold wrote:
Hi all, so this is a fun question.
I'm buying a bunch of parts from mouser for a home lab.
('Cause they have the laser diodes I want.)
So I favor through hole parts, (for proto-typing)
R's, C's, transistors...

R's- 1% MF 0.25W 10,30,...300k, 1M, 10M, 100M
(the last two not MF.)
C's- COG's 1 pf to ?0.01 uF (1, 3.3, 10..)
X7R 0.1uF bypass caps
Al-electro 100uF/ 100V

2n4401/03
2n7000
lnd150
lm317, LM337

What else am I going to want? (forgetting)

George H.

For lowish speed stuff, how about:

Transistors:
MPSA18 superbeta NPN
PN4250A quiet PNP with good beta
D44H11 low sat NPN TO-220
D45H11 low sat PNP TO-220
CPH3910 SMT but no home should be without them
BFS17A

Op amps and comparators: (I use a lot of duals)
LM358 dual jellybean class B op amp
LM393 dual OC comparator, ~1us
MC33078 4.5 nV noise bipolar dual (high Ibias but super cheap)
TCA0372 1.5A power op amp
TL082 FET
OPA2188 HV chopper--use a Bellin Systems SO8-DIP breakout
(there aren't any good dual choppers in DIP packages)

diodes
1N5817 1A Schottky
1N5823 3A Schottky
1N4148 gold-doped
MBD301 SS Schottky
1N4007 1 kV rectifier (slow)

Vregs
LP2951 Good enough for a voltage reference in many cases
LM1117 Lower voltage but low dropout, accurate voltage

MG Chemicals 835 RA flux pen

From eBay:
Cu-clad board
Kester 44 solder
BNC bulkhead connectors
5-way binding posts
banana plugs (some are decent, many are junk--YMMV)
BNC patch cords
#24 stranded PVC-insulated hook-up wire

Cheers

Phil Hobbs
Thanks Phil.. I nice list. I'm not going heavy into parts, cause the
whole idea could crash and burn if the photon flux from the DL's is less
than I measured before... (or I made a mistake before, most likely)

George H.

--
Dr Philip C D Hobbs
Principal Consultant
ElectroOptical Innovations LLC / Hobbs ElectroOptics
Optics, Electro-optics, Photonics, Analog Electronics
Briarcliff Manor NY 10510

http://electrooptical.net
http://hobbs-eo.com

My tuppence-worth:

A couple each 4066/4053/4051 analog switches and couple each CMOS logic
4001 4011 4013 4017 4093 - old slow 4000 series because it is flexible
enough for when analog meets digital proof of concept tinkering and can
be used to 18V. When you need speed then probably best to order the
right faster more modern parts as required.

A few scraps of ferrite, beads, salavaged ring cores etc.

A pocket AM/SW/FM BC pocket radio - not really for entertainment but
handy for chasing RFI.

A few of the oft-mocked 555 timers can be handy too.

piglet

 

[George Herold]

On Wednesday, February 5, 2020 at 2:54:39 PM UTC-5, Phil Hobbs wrote:

On 2020-02-05 11:42, George Herold wrote:
Hi all, so this is a fun question.
I'm buying a bunch of parts from mouser for a home lab.
('Cause they have the laser diodes I want.)
So I favor through hole parts, (for proto-typing)
R's, C's, transistors...

R's- 1% MF 0.25W 10,30,...300k, 1M, 10M, 100M
(the last two not MF.)
C's- COG's 1 pf to ?0.01 uF (1, 3.3, 10..)
X7R 0.1uF bypass caps
Al-electro 100uF/ 100V

2n4401/03
2n7000
lnd150
lm317, LM337

What else am I going to want? (forgetting)

George H.

For lowish speed stuff, how about:

Transistors:
MPSA18 superbeta NPN
PN4250A quiet PNP with good beta
D44H11 low sat NPN TO-220
D45H11 low sat PNP TO-220
CPH3910 SMT but no home should be without them
BFS17A

Op amps and comparators: (I use a lot of duals)
LM358 dual jellybean class B op amp
LM393 dual OC comparator, ~1us
MC33078 4.5 nV noise bipolar dual (high Ibias but super cheap)
TCA0372 1.5A power op amp
TL082 FET
OPA2188 HV chopper--use a Bellin Systems SO8-DIP breakout
(there aren't any good dual choppers in DIP packages)

diodes
1N5817 1A Schottky
1N5823 3A Schottky
1N4148 gold-doped
MBD301 SS Schottky
1N4007 1 kV rectifier (slow)

Vregs
LP2951 Good enough for a voltage reference in many cases
LM1117 Lower voltage but low dropout, accurate voltage

MG Chemicals 835 RA flux pen

From eBay:
Cu-clad board
Kester 44 solder
BNC bulkhead connectors
5-way binding posts
banana plugs (some are decent, many are junk--YMMV)
BNC patch cords
#24 stranded PVC-insulated hook-up wire

Cheers

Phil Hobbs

Thanks Phil.. I nice list. I'm not going heavy into parts, cause the
whole idea could crash and burn if the photon flux from the DL's is less
than I measured before... (or I made a mistake before, most likely)

George H.

--
Dr Philip C D Hobbs
Principal Consultant
ElectroOptical Innovations LLC / Hobbs ElectroOptics
Optics, Electro-optics, Photonics, Analog Electronics
Briarcliff Manor NY 10510

http://electrooptical.net
http://hobbs-eo.com

 

[George Herold]

On Wednesday, February 5, 2020 at 4:19:33 PM UTC-5, st...@qprinstruments.com wrote:

Decades ago, when I was an undergraduate, I cut some ~2" wide aluminum u-channel into ~1" wide pieces and put a couple of BNC bulkhead connectors on them to make a poor-man's version of the $80 Pomona 2399 boxes.

I am still amazed at how useful these have been for making a custom simple filter, DC block, attenuator, etc, for measurements.

Ohh! I like it! (U channel for boxes.) With another three sided
'box' as cover. Kind like old Bud boxes, but more robust.
I've thought about making my own 'pomona' boxes
by hogging out a block of Al... but that is a five sided box..

George H.

I made one version where I soldered alligator clips to the signal and ground lugs. I still giggle with joy at how wonderful this is when I use it.

People do the same thing with BNC-to-minigrabber adapters or minigrabber cables, but I found that those 3D sculptures are so much less reliable. (Especially on a cluttered bench where you need to keep the untrimmed resistor/capacitor leads from finding other things to contact.)

 

[George Herold]

On Wednesday, February 5, 2020 at 6:56:31 PM UTC-5, Joerg wrote:

On 2020-02-05 09:56, George Herold wrote:
On Wednesday, February 5, 2020 at 12:08:26 PM UTC-5, jla...@highlandsniptechnology.com wrote:
On Wed, 5 Feb 2020 08:42:46 -0800 (PST), George Herold
ggherold@gmail.com> wrote:

Hi all, so this is a fun question.
I'm buying a bunch of parts from mouser for a home lab.
('Cause they have the laser diodes I want.)
So I favor through hole parts, (for proto-typing)


I'd seriously consider 0805-size SMT instead of through-hole. I find
that prototyping goes faster with those because I never have to turn
around the board.


R's, C's, transistors...

R's- 1% MF 0.25W 10,30,...300k, 1M, 10M, 100M
(the last two not MF.)
C's- COG's 1 pf to ?0.01 uF (1, 3.3, 10..)
X7R 0.1uF bypass caps
Al-electro 100uF/ 100V

2n4401/03
2n7000
lnd150
lm317, LM337

What else am I going to want? (forgetting)


An assortment of wire in different colors, LOTS or alligator clip wire,
nuts, bolts, sheet metal to make shields, prototype boxes, fridge, Pale
Ale, IPA ...



George H.

Maybe some parts kits, from Mouser or parts makers.
Kit's were kinda spendy.. ~$100.


Nah.

https://www.amazon.com/Resistor-Assorted-Resistors-Assortment-Experiments/dp/B07L851T3V/

Oh.. thanks Joerg
Re: Through hole. I like to do air wires over copper clad..
like Phil's dead bug below. That way I see the whole circuit.
(I always get lost flipping things over and looking fro mthe other side.. :^)

George H.

... Better would be a parts list from
digikey... load this and start your lab.


Semiconductors, yes. For a good assortment of discretes I'd look
elsewhere first. EBay, Amazon, hobby places.


Opamps. Diodes. LEDs. Trimpots.
Diodes!! head slap!
and trim pots... I had this trimpot kit from DK... big single
turn things, but super useful for protos. (had metal housing that could
be soldered to copper clad for support... I need some copper clad too.)

oh and connectors... I've got some old stuff

Axial 1/4 watt resistor kits are good to have around. Ditto caps and
inductors. The resistor leads can be snipped off to make nice jumpers.

Get a mess of cheap coax adapters and banana things from ebay or
Amazon. And a supply of double-side copperclad FR4. And some cheap
assorted hardware kits.
Right!

Somebody should sell an everything starter kit. Probably someone does.

Get a bunch of coin envelopes and Danish Butter Cookie cans to stash
things in.


But watch that waist line


https://www.dropbox.com/s/0h6yn872tiijy3j/DBC_Storage.JPG?raw=1


John, you guys should all have your cholesterol levels checked out.


https://www.dropbox.com/s/6yc53r3bv6goahu/Parts_2.JPG?raw=1

Dremel. Dental burrs.


Where does one get dental burs? The ones sold for Dremel tools are a
little rough.

[...]

--
Regards, Joerg

http://www.analogconsultants.com/

 

[George Herold]

On Wednesday, February 5, 2020 at 8:35:31 PM UTC-5, Clifford Heath wrote:

On 6/2/20 10:56 am, Joerg wrote:
On 2020-02-05 09:56, George Herold wrote:
On Wednesday, February 5, 2020 at 12:08:26 PM UTC-5,
jla...@highlandsniptechnology.com wrote:
On Wed, 5 Feb 2020 08:42:46 -0800 (PST), George Herold
ggherold@gmail.com> wrote:
Hi all, so this is a fun question.
I'm buying a bunch of parts from mouser for a home lab.
('Cause they have the laser diodes I want.)
So I favor through hole parts, (for proto-typing)

I'd seriously consider 0805-size SMT instead of through-hole. I find
that prototyping goes faster with those because I never have to turn
around the board.

I find the same. Also buy some PCB with a grid of individual PTH. I have
some on a 0.05" grid, good for small parts. No ground plane for RF work
of course.

You can buy complete R and C sets in plastic books (like 20/ea of a
thousand values) for $50 on AliExpress. NPH caps too, but thy cost a
little more.

What else am I going to want? (forgetting)

Here are some of mine:

Transistors:
2n7002, IRLML6302PBF, BC327, BC848, MMBT2222, MMTH10, BF862, BFR93A

Diodes:
1N4148W, BAV99, HSMS-286K, varactors, zeners

RF:
SA612, AD8307, crystals, MMICs

Analog:
MC33202, AD8009, LMH6609, others

Power supply:
AMS1119, (need new buck&boost choices), USB power packs (for battery ops)

Connectors:
SMA, USB, U.FL

Compute:
Arduino Nano with my 3v3 conversion, STM32s

Get a bunch of coin envelopes and Danish Butter Cookie cans to stash
things in.

I cut the bottom off our (square base) HDPE milk bottles, to the depth
of a set of drawers. They make zero-price tubs that are easy to store
and rearrange. Use stick-on paper labels.

CH

Thanks Clifford. I don't like those PCB's with grids of holes for
prototyping.. (i get lost flipping it over.) I still will use my
white proto push board to test some simple (slow) thing.

George H.