Home lab parts

G

George Herold

Guest
Hi all, so this is a fun question.
I'm buying a bunch of parts from mouser for a home lab.
('Cause they have the laser diodes I want.)
So I favor through hole parts, (for proto-typing)
R's, C's, transistors...

R's- 1% MF 0.25W 10,30,...300k, 1M, 10M, 100M
(the last two not MF.)
C's- COG's 1 pf to ?0.01 uF (1, 3.3, 10..)
X7R 0.1uF bypass caps
Al-electro 100uF/ 100V

2n4401/03
2n7000
lnd150
lm317, LM337

What else am I going to want? (forgetting)

George H.
 
On 05/02/2020 16:42, George Herold wrote:
Hi all, so this is a fun question.
I'm buying a bunch of parts from mouser for a home lab.
('Cause they have the laser diodes I want.)
So I favor through hole parts, (for proto-typing)
R's, C's, transistors...

R's- 1% MF 0.25W 10,30,...300k, 1M, 10M, 100M
(the last two not MF.)
C's- COG's 1 pf to ?0.01 uF (1, 3.3, 10..)
X7R 0.1uF bypass caps
Al-electro 100uF/ 100V

2n4401/03
2n7000
lnd150
lm317, LM337

What else am I going to want? (forgetting)

Depends a bit on what you have already. Storage drawers maybe.

I generally buy just enough bits at a time to qualify for free postage.
I don't know if it works the same way in the USA. Keep a wanted list...

--
Regards,
Martin Brown
 
On Wed, 5 Feb 2020 08:42:46 -0800 (PST), George Herold
<ggherold@gmail.com> wrote:

Hi all, so this is a fun question.
I'm buying a bunch of parts from mouser for a home lab.
('Cause they have the laser diodes I want.)
So I favor through hole parts, (for proto-typing)
R's, C's, transistors...

R's- 1% MF 0.25W 10,30,...300k, 1M, 10M, 100M
(the last two not MF.)
C's- COG's 1 pf to ?0.01 uF (1, 3.3, 10..)
X7R 0.1uF bypass caps
Al-electro 100uF/ 100V

2n4401/03
2n7000
lnd150
lm317, LM337

What else am I going to want? (forgetting)

George H.

Maybe some parts kits, from Mouser or parts makers.

Opamps. Diodes. LEDs. Trimpots.

Axial 1/4 watt resistor kits are good to have around. Ditto caps and
inductors. The resistor leads can be snipped off to make nice jumpers.

Get a mess of cheap coax adapters and banana things from ebay or
Amazon. And a supply of double-side copperclad FR4. And some cheap
assorted hardware kits.

Somebody should sell an everything starter kit. Probably someone does.

Get a bunch of coin envelopes and Danish Butter Cookie cans to stash
things in.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/0h6yn872tiijy3j/DBC_Storage.JPG?raw=1

https://www.dropbox.com/s/6yc53r3bv6goahu/Parts_2.JPG?raw=1

Dremel. Dental burrs.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/j6ya354o7f6yoxt/D200_BB_3.jpg?raw=1

https://www.dropbox.com/s/7bihbjbaojvta0z/Z382_1.JPG?raw=1




--

John Larkin Highland Technology, Inc

The cork popped merrily, and Lord Peter rose to his feet.
"Bunter", he said, "I give you a toast. The triumph of Instinct over Reason"
 
On Wed, 5 Feb 2020 09:56:19 -0800 (PST), George Herold
<ggherold@gmail.com> wrote:

On Wednesday, February 5, 2020 at 12:08:26 PM UTC-5, jla...@highlandsniptechnology.com wrote:
On Wed, 5 Feb 2020 08:42:46 -0800 (PST), George Herold
ggherold@gmail.com> wrote:

Hi all, so this is a fun question.
I'm buying a bunch of parts from mouser for a home lab.
('Cause they have the laser diodes I want.)
So I favor through hole parts, (for proto-typing)
R's, C's, transistors...

R's- 1% MF 0.25W 10,30,...300k, 1M, 10M, 100M
(the last two not MF.)
C's- COG's 1 pf to ?0.01 uF (1, 3.3, 10..)
X7R 0.1uF bypass caps
Al-electro 100uF/ 100V

2n4401/03
2n7000
lnd150
lm317, LM337

What else am I going to want? (forgetting)

George H.

Maybe some parts kits, from Mouser or parts makers.
Kit's were kinda spendy.. ~$100. Better would be a parts list from
digikey... load this and start your lab.

Opamps. Diodes. LEDs. Trimpots.
Diodes!! head slap!
and trim pots... I had this trimpot kit from DK... big single
turn things, but super useful for protos. (had metal housing that could
be soldered to copper clad for support... I need some copper clad too.)

oh and connectors... I've got some old stuff

Axial 1/4 watt resistor kits are good to have around. Ditto caps and
inductors. The resistor leads can be snipped off to make nice jumpers.

Get a mess of cheap coax adapters and banana things from ebay or
Amazon. And a supply of double-side copperclad FR4. And some cheap
assorted hardware kits.
Right!

Somebody should sell an everything starter kit. Probably someone does.

Get a bunch of coin envelopes and Danish Butter Cookie cans to stash
things in.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/0h6yn872tiijy3j/DBC_Storage.JPG?raw=1

https://www.dropbox.com/s/6yc53r3bv6goahu/Parts_2.JPG?raw=1

Dremel. Dental burrs.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/j6ya354o7f6yoxt/D200_BB_3.jpg?raw=1

https://www.dropbox.com/s/7bihbjbaojvta0z/Z382_1.JPG?raw=1

Ok my mouser part list is growing. I can probably share it
if there is any interest.
Oh here's a thing.
the cheap LM317HVT (maybe should have an A in there?)
LM317AHVT (60V_in TO-220)
from On-semi are EOL. (I was going to get 3, but ordered 10 :^)

George H.

I wanted to use an LM317HV in a new design, but it looks iffy, and is
only available in ancient packages. I wound up using an OPA547 power
opamp as the regulator. It does have a nice resistor-programmable
current limit.

--

John Larkin Highland Technology, Inc
picosecond timing precision measurement

jlarkin att highlandtechnology dott com
http://www.highlandtechnology.com
 
On Wednesday, February 5, 2020 at 12:08:26 PM UTC-5, jla...@highlandsniptechnology.com wrote:
On Wed, 5 Feb 2020 08:42:46 -0800 (PST), George Herold
ggherold@gmail.com> wrote:

Hi all, so this is a fun question.
I'm buying a bunch of parts from mouser for a home lab.
('Cause they have the laser diodes I want.)
So I favor through hole parts, (for proto-typing)
R's, C's, transistors...

R's- 1% MF 0.25W 10,30,...300k, 1M, 10M, 100M
(the last two not MF.)
C's- COG's 1 pf to ?0.01 uF (1, 3.3, 10..)
X7R 0.1uF bypass caps
Al-electro 100uF/ 100V

2n4401/03
2n7000
lnd150
lm317, LM337

What else am I going to want? (forgetting)

George H.

Maybe some parts kits, from Mouser or parts makers.
Kit's were kinda spendy.. ~$100. Better would be a parts list from
digikey... load this and start your lab.
Opamps. Diodes. LEDs. Trimpots.
Diodes!! head slap!
and trim pots... I had this trimpot kit from DK... big single
turn things, but super useful for protos. (had metal housing that could
be soldered to copper clad for support... I need some copper clad too.)

oh and connectors... I've got some old stuff
Axial 1/4 watt resistor kits are good to have around. Ditto caps and
inductors. The resistor leads can be snipped off to make nice jumpers.

Get a mess of cheap coax adapters and banana things from ebay or
Amazon. And a supply of double-side copperclad FR4. And some cheap
assorted hardware kits.
Right!

Somebody should sell an everything starter kit. Probably someone does.

Get a bunch of coin envelopes and Danish Butter Cookie cans to stash
things in.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/0h6yn872tiijy3j/DBC_Storage.JPG?raw=1

https://www.dropbox.com/s/6yc53r3bv6goahu/Parts_2.JPG?raw=1

Dremel. Dental burrs.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/j6ya354o7f6yoxt/D200_BB_3.jpg?raw=1

https://www.dropbox.com/s/7bihbjbaojvta0z/Z382_1.JPG?raw=1

Ok my mouser part list is growing. I can probably share it
if there is any interest.
Oh here's a thing.
the cheap LM317HVT (maybe should have an A in there?)
LM317AHVT (60V_in TO-220)
from On-semi are EOL. (I was going to get 3, but ordered 10 :^)

George H.

--

John Larkin Highland Technology, Inc

The cork popped merrily, and Lord Peter rose to his feet.
"Bunter", he said, "I give you a toast. The triumph of Instinct over Reason"
 
Am 05.02.20 um 19:42 schrieb John Larkin:

I wanted to use an LM317HV in a new design, but it looks iffy, and is
only available in ancient packages. I wound up using an OPA547 power
opamp as the regulator. It does have a nice resistor-programmable
current limit.

I have bought some LM350 made by Fairchild from DK. Took the cheapest,
got dirt. The tab of the to-220 was nearly a better foil, one tab
was lost during handling. Used only 3 of these LM350. Rest is in
the drawer for panic events.

:-( Gerhard
 
On Wednesday, February 5, 2020 at 1:59:39 PM UTC-5, Gerhard Hoffmann wrote:
Am 05.02.20 um 19:42 schrieb John Larkin:

I wanted to use an LM317HV in a new design, but it looks iffy, and is
only available in ancient packages. I wound up using an OPA547 power
opamp as the regulator. It does have a nice resistor-programmable
current limit.


I have bought some LM350 made by Fairchild from DK. Took the cheapest,
got dirt. The tab of the to-220 was nearly a better foil, one tab
was lost during handling. Used only 3 of these LM350. Rest is in
the drawer for panic events.

:-( Gerhard

Oh TO-220's with thin tabs... I've seen those too. The tab is
almost worthless.. surface mount with power pad and clip for
production these days.

George H.
 
On Wednesday, February 5, 2020 at 1:42:59 PM UTC-5, John Larkin wrote:
On Wed, 5 Feb 2020 09:56:19 -0800 (PST), George Herold
ggherold@gmail.com> wrote:

On Wednesday, February 5, 2020 at 12:08:26 PM UTC-5, jla...@highlandsniptechnology.com wrote:
On Wed, 5 Feb 2020 08:42:46 -0800 (PST), George Herold
ggherold@gmail.com> wrote:

Hi all, so this is a fun question.
I'm buying a bunch of parts from mouser for a home lab.
('Cause they have the laser diodes I want.)
So I favor through hole parts, (for proto-typing)
R's, C's, transistors...

R's- 1% MF 0.25W 10,30,...300k, 1M, 10M, 100M
(the last two not MF.)
C's- COG's 1 pf to ?0.01 uF (1, 3.3, 10..)
X7R 0.1uF bypass caps
Al-electro 100uF/ 100V

2n4401/03
2n7000
lnd150
lm317, LM337

What else am I going to want? (forgetting)

George H.

Maybe some parts kits, from Mouser or parts makers.
Kit's were kinda spendy.. ~$100. Better would be a parts list from
digikey... load this and start your lab.

Opamps. Diodes. LEDs. Trimpots.
Diodes!! head slap!
and trim pots... I had this trimpot kit from DK... big single
turn things, but super useful for protos. (had metal housing that could
be soldered to copper clad for support... I need some copper clad too.)

oh and connectors... I've got some old stuff

Axial 1/4 watt resistor kits are good to have around. Ditto caps and
inductors. The resistor leads can be snipped off to make nice jumpers.

Get a mess of cheap coax adapters and banana things from ebay or
Amazon. And a supply of double-side copperclad FR4. And some cheap
assorted hardware kits.
Right!

Somebody should sell an everything starter kit. Probably someone does.

Get a bunch of coin envelopes and Danish Butter Cookie cans to stash
things in.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/0h6yn872tiijy3j/DBC_Storage.JPG?raw=1

https://www.dropbox.com/s/6yc53r3bv6goahu/Parts_2.JPG?raw=1

Dremel. Dental burrs.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/j6ya354o7f6yoxt/D200_BB_3.jpg?raw=1

https://www.dropbox.com/s/7bihbjbaojvta0z/Z382_1.JPG?raw=1

Ok my mouser part list is growing. I can probably share it
if there is any interest.
Oh here's a thing.
the cheap LM317HVT (maybe should have an A in there?)
LM317AHVT (60V_in TO-220)
from On-semi are EOL. (I was going to get 3, but ordered 10 :^)

George H.

I wanted to use an LM317HV in a new design, but it looks iffy, and is
only available in ancient packages. I wound up using an OPA547 power
opamp as the regulator. It does have a nice resistor-programmable
current limit.

How much current? The LTC6090 is a nice HV opamp.

George H.

Order has been sent... the other thing I need for optics
is some tip/tilt mirror mounts. I might have one... or thor-labs.

GH
--

John Larkin Highland Technology, Inc
picosecond timing precision measurement

jlarkin att highlandtechnology dott com
http://www.highlandtechnology.com
 
On Wed, 5 Feb 2020 11:24:36 -0800 (PST), George Herold
<ggherold@gmail.com> wrote:

On Wednesday, February 5, 2020 at 1:42:59 PM UTC-5, John Larkin wrote:
On Wed, 5 Feb 2020 09:56:19 -0800 (PST), George Herold
ggherold@gmail.com> wrote:

On Wednesday, February 5, 2020 at 12:08:26 PM UTC-5, jla...@highlandsniptechnology.com wrote:
On Wed, 5 Feb 2020 08:42:46 -0800 (PST), George Herold
ggherold@gmail.com> wrote:

Hi all, so this is a fun question.
I'm buying a bunch of parts from mouser for a home lab.
('Cause they have the laser diodes I want.)
So I favor through hole parts, (for proto-typing)
R's, C's, transistors...

R's- 1% MF 0.25W 10,30,...300k, 1M, 10M, 100M
(the last two not MF.)
C's- COG's 1 pf to ?0.01 uF (1, 3.3, 10..)
X7R 0.1uF bypass caps
Al-electro 100uF/ 100V

2n4401/03
2n7000
lnd150
lm317, LM337

What else am I going to want? (forgetting)

George H.

Maybe some parts kits, from Mouser or parts makers.
Kit's were kinda spendy.. ~$100. Better would be a parts list from
digikey... load this and start your lab.

Opamps. Diodes. LEDs. Trimpots.
Diodes!! head slap!
and trim pots... I had this trimpot kit from DK... big single
turn things, but super useful for protos. (had metal housing that could
be soldered to copper clad for support... I need some copper clad too.)

oh and connectors... I've got some old stuff

Axial 1/4 watt resistor kits are good to have around. Ditto caps and
inductors. The resistor leads can be snipped off to make nice jumpers.

Get a mess of cheap coax adapters and banana things from ebay or
Amazon. And a supply of double-side copperclad FR4. And some cheap
assorted hardware kits.
Right!

Somebody should sell an everything starter kit. Probably someone does.

Get a bunch of coin envelopes and Danish Butter Cookie cans to stash
things in.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/0h6yn872tiijy3j/DBC_Storage.JPG?raw=1

https://www.dropbox.com/s/6yc53r3bv6goahu/Parts_2.JPG?raw=1

Dremel. Dental burrs.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/j6ya354o7f6yoxt/D200_BB_3.jpg?raw=1

https://www.dropbox.com/s/7bihbjbaojvta0z/Z382_1.JPG?raw=1

Ok my mouser part list is growing. I can probably share it
if there is any interest.
Oh here's a thing.
the cheap LM317HVT (maybe should have an A in there?)
LM317AHVT (60V_in TO-220)
from On-semi are EOL. (I was going to get 3, but ordered 10 :^)

George H.

I wanted to use an LM317HV in a new design, but it looks iffy, and is
only available in ancient packages. I wound up using an OPA547 power
opamp as the regulator. It does have a nice resistor-programmable
current limit.

How much current? The LTC6090 is a nice HV opamp.

Well, it's complex. It regulates the programmable voltage into a pulse
generator output stage. The output is basically a GaN SPDT switch, a
50 ohm power resistor, and an output connector. The voltage range will
be 1 to 45 maybe, and 45 would fry the resistor if someone shorts the
output. I'm thinking about maybe a 300 mA current limit, which is
about 4.5 watts at 100% pulse duty cycle. But 45 volts times 300 mA is
13.5 watts, which could be dissipated by deliberately sinister
programming of pulse duty cycle into a short.

Those old-process linear regs would typically stand a lot more voltage
than their spec. LM1117 is specified for 15 volts in, but typically
dies at 60. I haven't tried a 317 but I suspect similar behavior. But
I wouldn't trust that for production.

--

John Larkin Highland Technology, Inc
picosecond timing precision measurement

jlarkin att highlandtechnology dott com
http://www.highlandtechnology.com
 
Decades ago, when I was an undergraduate, I cut some ~2" wide aluminum u-channel into ~1" wide pieces and put a couple of BNC bulkhead connectors on them to make a poor-man's version of the $80 Pomona 2399 boxes.

I am still amazed at how useful these have been for making a custom simple filter, DC block, attenuator, etc, for measurements.

I made one version where I soldered alligator clips to the signal and ground lugs. I still giggle with joy at how wonderful this is when I use it.

People do the same thing with BNC-to-minigrabber adapters or minigrabber cables, but I found that those 3D sculptures are so much less reliable. (Especially on a cluttered bench where you need to keep the untrimmed resistor/capacitor leads from finding other things to contact.)
 
On Wednesday, February 5, 2020 at 11:42:51 AM UTC-5, George Herold wrote:
Hi all, so this is a fun question.
I'm buying a bunch of parts from mouser for a home lab.
('Cause they have the laser diodes I want.)
So I favor through hole parts, (for proto-typing)
R's, C's, transistors...

R's- 1% MF 0.25W 10,30,...300k, 1M, 10M, 100M
(the last two not MF.)
C's- COG's 1 pf to ?0.01 uF (1, 3.3, 10..)
X7R 0.1uF bypass caps
Al-electro 100uF/ 100V

2n4401/03
2n7000
lnd150
lm317, LM337

What else am I going to want? (forgetting)

George H.

You might take a look at stuff on AliExpress. They have both bargains and junk.
Check out the diy modules. kits of thing as counters and frequency generators.

They also have resister assortments.

The good news is low prices. The bad news is long shipping times.

Dan
 
On Wed, 5 Feb 2020 13:19:28 -0800 (PST), steve@qprinstruments.com
wrote:

Decades ago, when I was an undergraduate, I cut some ~2" wide aluminum u-channel into ~1" wide pieces and put a couple of BNC bulkhead connectors on them to make a poor-man's version of the $80 Pomona 2399 boxes.

I am still amazed at how useful these have been for making a custom simple filter, DC block, attenuator, etc, for measurements.

I made one version where I soldered alligator clips to the signal and ground lugs. I still giggle with joy at how wonderful this is when I use it.

People do the same thing with BNC-to-minigrabber adapters or minigrabber cables, but I found that those 3D sculptures are so much less reliable. (Especially on a cluttered bench where you need to keep the untrimmed resistor/capacitor leads from finding other things to contact.)

I make boards, or boxes, out of copperclad FR4. I use 2-56 screws for
power and ground, easy to clip to, and SMB connectors for most
signals.

--

John Larkin Highland Technology, Inc
picosecond timing precision measurement

jlarkin att highlandtechnology dott com
http://www.highlandtechnology.com
 
On Wednesday, February 5, 2020 at 8:42:51 AM UTC-8, George Herold wrote:
Hi all, so this is a fun question.
I'm buying a bunch of parts from mouser for a home lab.

What else am I going to want? (forgetting)



fire up a spreadsheet and fill columns with part numbers, part type, and
some ordering info (part#, cost, date ordered, quantity,...) Feel free to add
specs that matter to you.

It's a lot easier to find parts in a listing than it is in a bunch of tubes, bags and boxes.
I'd second the 'coin envelopes' thing, too. That way, you can keep a LABEL next to the
little specks of surface-mount parts (and you WILL accumulate some of those).

Don't forget an assortment of fuses; nothing more irritating than having to
pay minimum-shipping-cost to get a common fuse that just can't be got
at the nearby Radio Shack. An assortment of power diodes (in case of
SMPS failure due to rectifier shorts) is also of use, because it's a lab,
and there will be little accidents. Those can be surface mount (some will have
to be, others in TO-220 and cylinder-with-leadwires), and won't cost as much as the fuses.
 
On 2020-02-05 16:19, steve@qprinstruments.com wrote:
Decades ago, when I was an undergraduate, I cut some ~2" wide aluminum u-channel into ~1" wide pieces and put a couple of BNC bulkhead connectors on them to make a poor-man's version of the $80 Pomona 2399 boxes.

I am still amazed at how useful these have been for making a custom simple filter, DC block, attenuator, etc, for measurements.

I made one version where I soldered alligator clips to the signal and ground lugs. I still giggle with joy at how wonderful this is when I use it.

People do the same thing with BNC-to-minigrabber adapters or minigrabber cables, but I found that those 3D sculptures are so much less reliable. (Especially on a cluttered bench where you need to keep the untrimmed resistor/capacitor leads from finding other things to contact.)

I use die-cast aluminum stomp boxes with copperclad FR4 mounted inside
the lid using bulkhead-mount BNC cables, like this:

<https://electrooptical.net/www/protos/PowerServoDemodBox01.jpg>

No EMI worries inside the box (cables are another matter of course).

Cheers

Phil Hobbs

--
Dr Philip C D Hobbs
Principal Consultant
ElectroOptical Innovations LLC / Hobbs ElectroOptics
Optics, Electro-optics, Photonics, Analog Electronics
Briarcliff Manor NY 10510

http://electrooptical.net
http://hobbs-eo.com
 
On 2020-02-05 16:06, Lasse Langwadt Christensen wrote:
torsdag den 6. februar 2020 kl. 00.56.31 UTC+1 skrev Joerg:

Where does one get dental burs? The ones sold for Dremel tools are a
little rough.


they are all over ebay for next to nothing, they also have the highspeed
spindles for cheap if you want to moonlight as a dentist ;)

Indeed! John, which kind do you prefer? WR-13? Or the longer TR style?

--
Regards, Joerg

http://www.analogconsultants.com/
 
torsdag den 6. februar 2020 kl. 00.56.31 UTC+1 skrev Joerg:
Where does one get dental burs? The ones sold for Dremel tools are a
little rough.

they are all over ebay for next to nothing, they also have the highspeed
spindles for cheap if you want to moonlight as a dentist ;)
 
On Wednesday, February 5, 2020 at 2:54:39 PM UTC-5, Phil Hobbs wrote:
> Kester 44 solder

I'm glad you mention that.
Question: Is Kester-44 the way to go if you want a clean joint, easy solderability, and you don't need lead-free? In 63/37 obviously.

I recently reviewed the Kester website (for wire solders, not interested in bars), and I really didn't get a complete picture of what's "best" - only some generalized statements as to the reactivity of the rosin used.

For general all-purpose electric repair (through hole and SMD), is "44" the right stuff to get? (I'm getting low..)
 
On Wed, 05 Feb 2020 16:21:06 -0800, Joerg <news@analogconsultants.com>
wrote:

On 2020-02-05 16:06, Lasse Langwadt Christensen wrote:
torsdag den 6. februar 2020 kl. 00.56.31 UTC+1 skrev Joerg:

Where does one get dental burs? The ones sold for Dremel tools are a
little rough.


they are all over ebay for next to nothing, they also have the highspeed
spindles for cheap if you want to moonlight as a dentist ;)


Indeed! John, which kind do you prefer? WR-13? Or the longer TR style?

https://www.dropbox.com/s/0d5vvnqkh1bkugy/Burr_1.JPG?raw=1

These were from ebay. They have a soft rounded tip, which carves the
copper really nicely. Clean up the carvings with a Scotchbrite pad,
then some SoftScrub. Gold plated FR4 solders beautifully and won't
tarnish.


Amazon wants you to be a dentist or something to sell you burrs.


--

John Larkin Highland Technology, Inc
picosecond timing precision measurement

jlarkin att highlandtechnology dott com
http://www.highlandtechnology.com
 
On 2020-02-05 09:56, George Herold wrote:
On Wednesday, February 5, 2020 at 12:08:26 PM UTC-5, jla...@highlandsniptechnology.com wrote:
On Wed, 5 Feb 2020 08:42:46 -0800 (PST), George Herold
ggherold@gmail.com> wrote:

Hi all, so this is a fun question.
I'm buying a bunch of parts from mouser for a home lab.
('Cause they have the laser diodes I want.)
So I favor through hole parts, (for proto-typing)

I'd seriously consider 0805-size SMT instead of through-hole. I find
that prototyping goes faster with those because I never have to turn
around the board.


R's, C's, transistors...

R's- 1% MF 0.25W 10,30,...300k, 1M, 10M, 100M
(the last two not MF.)
C's- COG's 1 pf to ?0.01 uF (1, 3.3, 10..)
X7R 0.1uF bypass caps
Al-electro 100uF/ 100V

2n4401/03
2n7000
lnd150
lm317, LM337

What else am I going to want? (forgetting)

An assortment of wire in different colors, LOTS or alligator clip wire,
nuts, bolts, sheet metal to make shields, prototype boxes, fridge, Pale
Ale, IPA ...


George H.

Maybe some parts kits, from Mouser or parts makers.
Kit's were kinda spendy.. ~$100.

Nah.

https://www.amazon.com/Resistor-Assorted-Resistors-Assortment-Experiments/dp/B07L851T3V/


... Better would be a parts list from
digikey... load this and start your lab.

Semiconductors, yes. For a good assortment of discretes I'd look
elsewhere first. EBay, Amazon, hobby places.

Opamps. Diodes. LEDs. Trimpots.
Diodes!! head slap!
and trim pots... I had this trimpot kit from DK... big single
turn things, but super useful for protos. (had metal housing that could
be soldered to copper clad for support... I need some copper clad too.)

oh and connectors... I've got some old stuff

Axial 1/4 watt resistor kits are good to have around. Ditto caps and
inductors. The resistor leads can be snipped off to make nice jumpers.

Get a mess of cheap coax adapters and banana things from ebay or
Amazon. And a supply of double-side copperclad FR4. And some cheap
assorted hardware kits.
Right!

Somebody should sell an everything starter kit. Probably someone does.

Get a bunch of coin envelopes and Danish Butter Cookie cans to stash
things in.

But watch that waist line :)


https://www.dropbox.com/s/0h6yn872tiijy3j/DBC_Storage.JPG?raw=1

John, you guys should all have your cholesterol levels checked out.


https://www.dropbox.com/s/6yc53r3bv6goahu/Parts_2.JPG?raw=1

Dremel. Dental burrs.

Where does one get dental burs? The ones sold for Dremel tools are a
little rough.

[...]

--
Regards, Joerg

http://www.analogconsultants.com/
 
On Wednesday, February 5, 2020 at 11:42:51 AM UTC-5, George Herold wrote:
Hi all, so this is a fun question.
I'm buying a bunch of parts from mouser for a home lab.

My "go-to" parts bin always has some Simple Switchers (LM2575, etc..)
These come in fixed or adjustable voltage varieties (programmed with resistors)
A Diode assortment (they are cheap!), maybe including a bridge or two.
Whatever my flavor of the month FET happens to be (right now it's IRFP4668).

And an assortment of 8051 flavor microcontrollers, especially including the AT89LP51ED2 -- which is a pretty handy little chip, even if from a family that's a little long in the tooth. :)

A 16x2 backlit character LCD display (cheap on Amazon)

Some opto-isolators, and some comparators or op-amps too.

You don't need to buy the farm.
Mouser and Digikey are only keystrokes away.

Get a decent soldering station, though. And work lights.
 

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