Driver to drive?

Jim Thompson · Nov 16, 2008

On Sun, 16 Nov 2008 01:00:48 -0800, Robert Baer
<robertbaer@localnet.com> wrote:

Jim Thompson wrote:

On Thu, 13 Nov 2008 22:58:51 -0800, Robert Baer
robertbaer@localnet.com> wrote:

Jim Thompson wrote:

On Tue, 11 Nov 2008 23:16:39 -0800, Robert Baer
robertbaer@localnet.com> wrote:

Robert Baer wrote:

Robert Baer wrote:

Prelim specs:
1) Plugs into phone line, phone plugs into the black box.
2) Black box records all possible info concerning incoming calls for
later viewing and evidence gathering.
3) If incoming call is not in (programmable) list, then the caller
hears the 3 magic tones as loud as possible followed by a message
delivered s.l.o.w.l.y. "The number you have dialed is not active" and
(options) immediately hang up, OR forward call WITH CID info to a
provided number (say police non-emergency or FBI).
4) If call is in list, then the connected phone rings (call
"forwarded" to it).
5) Memory allows storage of at least 100 incoming SpamCalls per day,
say minimum of 500 total.
Is there anything like this on the market?
If such a device was designed, what would be the estimated sales price?

The sooner i can get one of these, the better.
Marketeers are driving me nuts.

Hello?
When can i buy even a prototype?

Be patient ;-)

...Jim Thompson

OK.
Be advised that the majority of SPAMcalls "id" as "UUU UNKNOWN
CALLER" or as "PPP PRIVATE CALLER" and the so-called trace (*57) does
not work.

My present land-line phone subscription can be set to block
anonymous/unknown callers. I have to turn it off when my doctor
calls.

So a "blacklist" of unwanted numbers is not all that useful.

A good start is to simply block every "800-number".

Not that i object to such an idea, but the black box should reject /
shunt all calls not on the whitelist.
And a simple message to unwanted callers is not sufficent.
A selection of pre-programmed responses that the user can "piece
together" would seem to be ideal, and definitely should include those 3
magic tones.
"Instant pickup and response" is perfect, especially for those
unidentified callers - using the 3 tones.

BTW, what if the caller siezes the line? (happens sometimes)
Is there any way to ZAP them and recover use of the line?

Reverse potential drops the line.

I've also considered a "pass-key" approach not unlike those "enter
these four letters" web site controls. Have our machine "answer" the
phone and request a 4-number sequence to cause the line to ring.
Solicitors won't take the time.

...Jim Thompson
The "block anonymous/unknown callers" does not work; somehow they got
thru anyway, so i dropped the costly and ineffective service.
"block every 800-number" is not an option provided by Quest, and i am
sure it would be as ineffective.
The "Caller Privacy" option was also useless.

Reversing the line potential to drop the line would be a nice option;
either automatic after the "end" of a "conersation" or with a (red)
pushbutton.

I do not think a "passkey" system is needed or ultimately useful,
because it cannot "zap" a marketeer in such a way as to permenantly
discourage them.
Something more "offensive" like the 3 tones followed by a choosable
message if there is a viable phone number, as well as an *immediate*
pickup on no number with 3 tones and same choices (immediate hangup,
Bronx cheer, etc etc).

Jim Yanik · Nov 16, 2008

Phil Hobbs <pcdhSpamMeSenseless@electrooptical.net> wrote in
news:491F90ED.4070005@electrooptical.net:

Eeyore wrote:

Jan Panteltje wrote:

I JUST USED TO HOLD THE SENSOR IN MY HAND AND SET FOR 37.5°C.

p.s. I thought it was 37.4 anyway.

Graham

37.0 C = 98.6 F (usually quoted as body temperature over here).

Cheers,

Phil Hobbs

your hand is going to be cooler than where human body temp is usually
measured.

--
Jim Yanik
jyanik
at
kua.net

JosephKK · Nov 16, 2008

On Sun, 16 Nov 2008 01:01:38 -0800, Robert Baer
<robertbaer@localnet.com> wrote:

JosephKK wrote:

On Thu, 13 Nov 2008 22:58:51 -0800, Robert Baer
robertbaer@localnet.com> wrote:

Jim Thompson wrote:

On Tue, 11 Nov 2008 23:16:39 -0800, Robert Baer
robertbaer@localnet.com> wrote:

Robert Baer wrote:

Robert Baer wrote:

Prelim specs:
1) Plugs into phone line, phone plugs into the black box.
2) Black box records all possible info concerning incoming calls for
later viewing and evidence gathering.
3) If incoming call is not in (programmable) list, then the caller
hears the 3 magic tones as loud as possible followed by a message
delivered s.l.o.w.l.y. "The number you have dialed is not active" and
(options) immediately hang up, OR forward call WITH CID info to a
provided number (say police non-emergency or FBI).
4) If call is in list, then the connected phone rings (call
"forwarded" to it).
5) Memory allows storage of at least 100 incoming SpamCalls per day,
say minimum of 500 total.
Is there anything like this on the market?
If such a device was designed, what would be the estimated sales price?

The sooner i can get one of these, the better.
Marketeers are driving me nuts.

Hello?
When can i buy even a prototype?

Be patient ;-)

...Jim Thompson

OK.
Be advised that the majority of SPAMcalls "id" as "UUU UNKNOWN
CALLER" or as "PPP PRIVATE CALLER" and the so-called trace (*57) does
not work.
So a "blacklist" of unwanted numbers is not all that useful.
Not that i object to such an idea, but the black box should reject /
shunt all calls not on the whitelist.
And a simple message to unwanted callers is not sufficent.
A selection of pre-programmed responses that the user can "piece
together" would seem to be ideal, and definitely should include those 3
magic tones.
"Instant pickup and response" is perfect, especially for those
unidentified callers - using the 3 tones.

BTW, what if the caller siezes the line? (happens sometimes)
Is there any way to ZAP them and recover use of the line?

POTS lines are loop start and no-loop stop. If i am hearing a
longwinded ad that interferes with what i wish to do, i just pop the
jack out of the wall for a few seconds. The call has been ended.

Nope! Not if they sieze the line.

Misbehaving personal instruments exist, but no loop always terminates
the call, that is why i said unplug, not hang up. It is a legal
requirement in the US.

Jim Thompson · Nov 16, 2008

On Sun, 16 Nov 2008 11:27:36 -0800, JosephKK <quiettechblue@yahoo.com>
wrote:
[snip]

Misbehaving personal instruments exist, but no loop always terminates
the call, that is why i said unplug, not hang up. It is a legal
requirement in the US.

RichD · Nov 17, 2008

On Nov 16, Tim Smith <reply_in_gr...@mouse-potato.com> wrote:

This raises a question: what does it mean to "understand" a proof?

Good question; what does it mean to understand anything?

Biologically, it means a sequence of neural
firings in the cerebral cortex have occurred,
which result in the mental state associated
with "I get it!"

I would try to model this in the sense of
Kolmogorov complexity, where the brain
constructs a program which generates the same
data as the object to be understood.

--
Rich

Robert Baer · Nov 17, 2008

Jim Thompson wrote:

On Sun, 16 Nov 2008 01:00:48 -0800, Robert Baer
robertbaer@localnet.com> wrote:

Jim Thompson wrote:

On Thu, 13 Nov 2008 22:58:51 -0800, Robert Baer
robertbaer@localnet.com> wrote:

Jim Thompson wrote:

On Tue, 11 Nov 2008 23:16:39 -0800, Robert Baer
robertbaer@localnet.com> wrote:

Robert Baer wrote:

Robert Baer wrote:

Prelim specs:
1) Plugs into phone line, phone plugs into the black box.
2) Black box records all possible info concerning incoming calls for
later viewing and evidence gathering.
3) If incoming call is not in (programmable) list, then the caller
hears the 3 magic tones as loud as possible followed by a message
delivered s.l.o.w.l.y. "The number you have dialed is not active" and
(options) immediately hang up, OR forward call WITH CID info to a
provided number (say police non-emergency or FBI).
4) If call is in list, then the connected phone rings (call
"forwarded" to it).
5) Memory allows storage of at least 100 incoming SpamCalls per day,
say minimum of 500 total.
Is there anything like this on the market?
If such a device was designed, what would be the estimated sales price?

The sooner i can get one of these, the better.
Marketeers are driving me nuts.

Hello?
When can i buy even a prototype?

Be patient ;-)

...Jim Thompson

OK.
Be advised that the majority of SPAMcalls "id" as "UUU UNKNOWN
CALLER" or as "PPP PRIVATE CALLER" and the so-called trace (*57) does
not work.

My present land-line phone subscription can be set to block
anonymous/unknown callers. I have to turn it off when my doctor
calls.

So a "blacklist" of unwanted numbers is not all that useful.

A good start is to simply block every "800-number".

Not that i object to such an idea, but the black box should reject /
shunt all calls not on the whitelist.
And a simple message to unwanted callers is not sufficent.
A selection of pre-programmed responses that the user can "piece
together" would seem to be ideal, and definitely should include those 3
magic tones.
"Instant pickup and response" is perfect, especially for those
unidentified callers - using the 3 tones.

BTW, what if the caller siezes the line? (happens sometimes)
Is there any way to ZAP them and recover use of the line?

Reverse potential drops the line.

I've also considered a "pass-key" approach not unlike those "enter
these four letters" web site controls. Have our machine "answer" the
phone and request a 4-number sequence to cause the line to ring.
Solicitors won't take the time.

...Jim Thompson

The "block anonymous/unknown callers" does not work; somehow they got
thru anyway, so i dropped the costly and ineffective service.
"block every 800-number" is not an option provided by Quest, and i am
sure it would be as ineffective.
The "Caller Privacy" option was also useless.

Reversing the line potential to drop the line would be a nice option;
either automatic after the "end" of a "conersation" or with a (red)
pushbutton.

I do not think a "passkey" system is needed or ultimately useful,
because it cannot "zap" a marketeer in such a way as to permenantly
discourage them.
Something more "offensive" like the 3 tones followed by a choosable
message if there is a viable phone number, as well as an *immediate*
pickup on no number with 3 tones and same choices (immediate hangup,
Bronx cheer, etc etc).

"Hello! You are not wanted here. Go fuck yourself." [Hangup]

...Jim Thompson
The police suggested that the first words said should be rapid:

"don'tcall".
Your suggestion here is something that should not be in a retail
version, and i believe there is sufficent need for decent retail sales.

Robert Baer · Nov 17, 2008

Jim Thompson wrote:

On Sun, 16 Nov 2008 11:27:36 -0800, JosephKK <quiettechblue@yahoo.com
wrote:
[snip]

Misbehaving personal instruments exist, but no loop always terminates
the call, that is why i said unplug, not hang up. It is a legal
requirement in the US.

Am I correct in recalling that you have to unplug for at least several
seconds?

...Jim Thompson
If one has more than one phone on the line, or an answering machine,

or (ahem) modem, or combination of those, then it would take a lot of
running around to different rooms to unplug them all.
Unplugging a phone only disconnects the AC coupled ringer for that
particular phone; unplugging OR hanging up removes all possibility of DC
current (AKA "loop").
So, even if there was only one phone, hanging up is the same as
unpluffing it - either breaks the DC loop.

JosephKK · Nov 18, 2008

On Mon, 17 Nov 2008 01:23:36 -0800, Robert Baer
<robertbaer@localnet.com> wrote:

Jim Thompson wrote:

On Sun, 16 Nov 2008 11:27:36 -0800, JosephKK <quiettechblue@yahoo.com
wrote:
[snip]

Misbehaving personal instruments exist, but no loop always terminates
the call, that is why i said unplug, not hang up. It is a legal
requirement in the US.

Am I correct in recalling that you have to unplug for at least several
seconds?

...Jim Thompson
If one has more than one phone on the line, or an answering machine,
or (ahem) modem, or combination of those, then it would take a lot of
running around to different rooms to unplug them all.
Unplugging a phone only disconnects the AC coupled ringer for that
particular phone; unplugging OR hanging up removes all possibility of DC
current (AKA "loop").
So, even if there was only one phone, hanging up is the same as
unpluffing it - either breaks the DC loop.

Hook flash which breaks the DC loop for less than 1/2 second but more
than 1/20 second is used for signaling. Over one full second should
do the job and two seconds is quite reliable.

Multiple instruments on the line can be an issue if more than one
picks up, e.g. message machine and modem; some user voice (mostly
teleconference types) instruments can be set to auto answer. If
however only the message machine picks up; unplugging it alone is
quite sufficient.

JosephKK · Nov 20, 2008

On Fri, 14 Nov 2008 19:02:54 -0600, ratman <endlr@execpc.com> wrote:

On Tue, 08 May 2007 14:56:50 GMT, DaveC <me@privacy.net> wrote:

I know this subject of "cheap" and "calibrate" used in the same sentence may
well be anathema to some of you but I need to verify that either my IR temp
gun is accurate or my DMM/thermocouple is, or neither. Accuracy to 2 or 3
degrees F is fine.

I'm looking for suggestions for a simple way to provide some kind of common
temperature "standard" (I use the term loosely, here) I can compare these
against.

Thanks,

I would put money on the therocouple thermometer, for what
it's worth.

Each to their own, but i do not use thermocouples very often due to
the "cold" junction compensation needed. It is just too easy to
calibrate a thermistor instead.

JosephKK · Nov 20, 2008

On Sat, 15 Nov 2008 01:50:45 +0000, IanM <Invalid@totally.invalid>
wrote:

ratman wrote:

On Tue, 08 May 2007 14:56:50 GMT, DaveC <me@privacy.net> wrote:

I know this subject of "cheap" and "calibrate" used in the same sentence may
well be anathema to some of you but I need to verify that either my IR temp
gun is accurate or my DMM/thermocouple is, or neither. Accuracy to 2 or 3
degrees F is fine.

I'm looking for suggestions for a simple way to provide some kind of common
temperature "standard" (I use the term loosely, here) I can compare these
against.

Thanks,

I would put money on the therocouple thermometer, for what
it's worth.
Melting ice and condensing steam. For both you are going to need a
small copper or aluminium block painted matte black for the IR temp gun
to read and a hole drilled in the block thats a close fit for the
thermocouple with a little dab of heat transfer grease. Implementation
is your problem, although it can be advantageous to insulate the sides
of the block with expanded polystyrene.

The aluminum block is quite unnecessary, though an aquarium pump or
lab stirrer is useful.

JosephKK · Nov 20, 2008

On Fri, 14 Nov 2008 18:52:46 -0800, John Larkin
<jjlarkin@highNOTlandTHIStechnologyPART.com> wrote:

On Sat, 15 Nov 2008 01:50:45 +0000, IanM <Invalid@totally.invalid
wrote:

ratman wrote:

On Tue, 08 May 2007 14:56:50 GMT, DaveC <me@privacy.net> wrote:

I know this subject of "cheap" and "calibrate" used in the same sentence may
well be anathema to some of you but I need to verify that either my IR temp
gun is accurate or my DMM/thermocouple is, or neither. Accuracy to 2 or 3
degrees F is fine.

I'm looking for suggestions for a simple way to provide some kind of common
temperature "standard" (I use the term loosely, here) I can compare these
against.

Thanks,

I would put money on the therocouple thermometer, for what
it's worth.
Melting ice and condensing steam. For both you are going to need a
small copper or aluminium block painted matte black for the IR temp gun
to read and a hole drilled in the block thats a close fit for the
thermocouple with a little dab of heat transfer grease. Implementation
is your problem, although it can be advantageous to insulate the sides
of the block with expanded polystyrene.

Water and ice have thermal IR emissivity of around 98%, about as black
as things get. So mix crushed ice into cold water in a glass or cup,
preferably a thermos, stir, and aim your IR thermometer straignt down
into that. Or swish a thermocouple around in it. Even yukky tap water,
well stirred with ice, will be within 15 mK of 0C.

The high end, boiling, is a little trickier.

John

Deionized, distilled (chem lab high purity) water really helps in both
cases.

JosephKK · Nov 20, 2008

On Sat, 15 Nov 2008 14:42:56 +0000, IanM <Invalid@totally.invalid>
wrote:

Spehro Pefhany wrote:

On Sat, 15 Nov 2008 13:17:11 +0000, the renowned Eeyore
rabbitsfriendsandrelations@hotmail.com> wrote:

Don Bruder wrote:

Eeyore <rabbitsfriendsandrelations@hotmail.com> wrote:

I used to 'calibrate' thermocouples by putting them in boiling water.

100C/212F = nice cup of rolling-boil water at 1 standard atmosphere

Might not have been *PERFECT*, but it was at least reasonably close
enough for the stuff we were doing.

And that's normally good enough ! Best ignore the change in boiling point vs atm
pressure. ;~)

A bit of knowledge can be dangerous...

http://www.ucl.ac.uk/sts/chang/boiling/index.htm

Which is why I reccomended condensing steam on a metal block. Avoids
all sorts of problems with superheat. Once you've done that, might as
well use the same block in melting ice for consistancy.

Still why be overly complex, just a few standard techniques eliminate
the superheat problem.

JosephKK · Nov 20, 2008

On Sat, 15 Nov 2008 16:35:30 GMT, Jan Panteltje
<pNaonStpealmtje@yahoo.com> wrote:

On a sunny day (Sat, 15 Nov 2008 16:19:32 GMT) it happened Rich Grise
rich@example.net> wrote in <pan.2008.11.15.16.19.23.568473@example.net>:

On Sat, 15 Nov 2008 14:54:15 +0000, Jan Panteltje wrote:

I JUST USED TO HOLD THE SENSOR IN MY HAND AND SET FOR 37.5°C.

Then it's very likely calibrated wrong. With that "calibrated" sensor,
check the temp. under your tongue, or even in your armpit, to see what
I'm talking about. Of course, we all know which kind of thermometer is
most accurate of all medical thermometers, don't we? >:-

And what's all the shouting about?

I AM GLAD YOU ASKED THAT. SIMPLE:
CAPS HAVE ONE BIT LESS SET, SO IT SAVES ON ENERGY.

Thanks,
Rich

No, the encoding does not. USENET was originally standardized on
7-bit ASCII which includes both upper case and lower case. Moreover,
megasnot is/was driving everything to Unicode, which is a mixture of
8-bit and 16-bit per character encodings for transmission, with a
dribble of 24-bit encodings. Currently UTF-8 is the most popular
encoding on usenet.

JosephKK · Nov 20, 2008

On Sun, 16 Nov 2008 03:01:57 +0000, Eeyore
<rabbitsfriendsandrelations@hotmail.com> wrote:

Spehro Pefhany wrote:

the renowned Archimedes' Lever wrote:
Rich Grise <rich@example.net> wrote:
Eeyore wrote:

And that's normally good enough ! Best ignore the change in boiling point
vs atm pressure. ;~)

Best not - even cookbooks account for the difference. It takes longer to
boil and egg in Denver than it does in, say, LA.

If boiling point goes up with reduced atmospheric pressure, then why
does water boil as one approaches a vacuum at room temp?

Cooking time, not boiling point, goes up. How long would eggs take to
cook at room temperature?

Depends if you like them soft or hard.

Graham

The book Thor Heyerdahl wrote about the possibility of ancient
Egyptians crossing the Atlantic in Hellenic times using period
technology has some interesting techniques for preserving fresh eggs,
such that they do not cook or spoil at ambient temperatures for an
amazing duration. Saw it on some PBS show many years ago. I think it
was called "The Ra Expedition".

JosephKK · Nov 20, 2008

On Mon, 17 Nov 2008 17:06:04 GMT, Sandbox Moderator
<yahright@example.com> wrote:

On Sun, 16 Nov 2008 03:00:37 +0000, Eeyore wrote:

If boiling point goes up with reduced atmospheric pressure,

It doesn't. Everybody's known that since fourth grade, except the
incurable idiots.

Thanks,
Rich

Except that it was Archimedes' Lever that wrote that trash, Eyesore
just foolishly responded to it. Control is hitting the right target.

JosephKK · Nov 20, 2008

On 15 Nov 2008 02:58:22 GMT, Jim Yanik <jyanik@abuse.gov> wrote:

ratman <endlr@execpc.com> wrote in
news:js7sh4tuc8l7ennillluf09fobemdehc6b@4ax.com:

On Tue, 08 May 2007 14:56:50 GMT, DaveC <me@privacy.net> wrote:

I know this subject of "cheap" and "calibrate" used in the same
sentence may well be anathema to some of you but I need to verify that
either my IR temp gun is accurate or my DMM/thermocouple is, or
neither. Accuracy to 2 or 3 degrees F is fine.

I'm looking for suggestions for a simple way to provide some kind of
common temperature "standard" (I use the term loosely, here) I can
compare these against.

Thanks,

I would put money on the therocouple thermometer, for what
it's worth.

How do you know the basic DMM is accurate?
gotta use the RIGHT thermocouple,too.

Ice water bath in styrofoam cup and boiling water in pot. 32F and 212F.
Can't get any simpler.
(unless you are at some unusual altitude,like Denver)

But you could find corrections online,I'm sure,DAGS.

take a heavy gauge aluminum strip,paint exposed part flat black,and stick
in cup/pot,for IR thermometer reading.

Freezing and boiling water (compensated for altitude) is probably more
accurate than the fancy IR thermometer, and a damn sight less
expensive.

Spehro Pefhany · Nov 20, 2008

On Thu, 20 Nov 2008 05:57:50 -0800, JosephKK <quiettechblue@yahoo.com>
wrote:

On Fri, 14 Nov 2008 18:52:46 -0800, John Larkin
jjlarkin@highNOTlandTHIStechnologyPART.com> wrote:

On Sat, 15 Nov 2008 01:50:45 +0000, IanM <Invalid@totally.invalid
wrote:

ratman wrote:

On Tue, 08 May 2007 14:56:50 GMT, DaveC <me@privacy.net> wrote:

I know this subject of "cheap" and "calibrate" used in the same sentence may
well be anathema to some of you but I need to verify that either my IR temp
gun is accurate or my DMM/thermocouple is, or neither. Accuracy to 2 or 3
degrees F is fine.

I'm looking for suggestions for a simple way to provide some kind of common
temperature "standard" (I use the term loosely, here) I can compare these
against.

Thanks,

I would put money on the therocouple thermometer, for what
it's worth.
Melting ice and condensing steam. For both you are going to need a
small copper or aluminium block painted matte black for the IR temp gun
to read and a hole drilled in the block thats a close fit for the
thermocouple with a little dab of heat transfer grease. Implementation
is your problem, although it can be advantageous to insulate the sides
of the block with expanded polystyrene.

Water and ice have thermal IR emissivity of around 98%, about as black
as things get. So mix crushed ice into cold water in a glass or cup,
preferably a thermos, stir, and aim your IR thermometer straignt down
into that. Or swish a thermocouple around in it. Even yukky tap water,
well stirred with ice, will be within 15 mK of 0C.

The high end, boiling, is a little trickier.

John

Deionized, distilled (chem lab high purity) water really helps in both
cases.

Actually, using particularly sloppy lab practices and tap water helps
more with the boiling point measurement.

John Larkin · Nov 20, 2008

On Thu, 20 Nov 2008 05:57:50 -0800, JosephKK <quiettechblue@yahoo.com>
wrote:

On Fri, 14 Nov 2008 18:52:46 -0800, John Larkin
jjlarkin@highNOTlandTHIStechnologyPART.com> wrote:

On Sat, 15 Nov 2008 01:50:45 +0000, IanM <Invalid@totally.invalid
wrote:

ratman wrote:

On Tue, 08 May 2007 14:56:50 GMT, DaveC <me@privacy.net> wrote:

I know this subject of "cheap" and "calibrate" used in the same sentence may
well be anathema to some of you but I need to verify that either my IR temp
gun is accurate or my DMM/thermocouple is, or neither. Accuracy to 2 or 3
degrees F is fine.

I'm looking for suggestions for a simple way to provide some kind of common
temperature "standard" (I use the term loosely, here) I can compare these
against.

Thanks,

I would put money on the therocouple thermometer, for what
it's worth.
Melting ice and condensing steam. For both you are going to need a
small copper or aluminium block painted matte black for the IR temp gun
to read and a hole drilled in the block thats a close fit for the
thermocouple with a little dab of heat transfer grease. Implementation
is your problem, although it can be advantageous to insulate the sides
of the block with expanded polystyrene.

Water and ice have thermal IR emissivity of around 98%, about as black
as things get. So mix crushed ice into cold water in a glass or cup,
preferably a thermos, stir, and aim your IR thermometer straignt down
into that. Or swish a thermocouple around in it. Even yukky tap water,
well stirred with ice, will be within 15 mK of 0C.

The high end, boiling, is a little trickier.

John

Deionized, distilled (chem lab high purity) water really helps in both
cases.

The freezing case works fine with most any tap water to, as I noted,
15mK or better... I have a paper on that somewhere. The important
thing is to have a lot of well-crushed ice, preferebly in a thermos,
and stir it well. The stainless thermos coffee cups, like you can buy
at Starbucks, are fine.

Most IR thermometers are calibrated for an emissivity in the 0.9 sort
of area, so may actually indicate a bit below 0 when used with a
really good/black source like ice water.

John

Eric · Nov 20, 2008

JosephKK wrote:

On Fri, 14 Nov 2008 18:52:46 -0800, John Larkin
jjlarkin@highNOTlandTHIStechnologyPART.com> wrote:

On Sat, 15 Nov 2008 01:50:45 +0000, IanM <Invalid@totally.invalid
wrote:

ratman wrote:

On Tue, 08 May 2007 14:56:50 GMT, DaveC <me@privacy.net> wrote:

I know this subject of "cheap" and "calibrate" used in the same sentence may
well be anathema to some of you but I need to verify that either my IR temp
gun is accurate or my DMM/thermocouple is, or neither. Accuracy to 2 or 3
degrees F is fine.

If you have access to a decent old fashioned mercury thermometer why not
just use that to calibrate?
Eric

GregS · Nov 20, 2008

In article <gg3vvg$7kf$2@aioe.org>, Eric <noone@nowhere.com> wrote:

JosephKK wrote:
On Fri, 14 Nov 2008 18:52:46 -0800, John Larkin
jjlarkin@highNOTlandTHIStechnologyPART.com> wrote:

On Sat, 15 Nov 2008 01:50:45 +0000, IanM <Invalid@totally.invalid
wrote:

ratman wrote:

On Tue, 08 May 2007 14:56:50 GMT, DaveC <me@privacy.net> wrote:

I know this subject of "cheap" and "calibrate" used in the same sentence
may
well be anathema to some of you but I need to verify that either my IR
temp
gun is accurate or my DMM/thermocouple is, or neither. Accuracy to 2 or 3

degrees F is fine.

If you have access to a decent old fashioned mercury thermometer why not
just use that to calibrate?
Eric

I have used them but the accuracy varies, and with any sensor, it
can vary depending on what area its actually contacting. I often need
accuracy at 37 C and I use a fast rotating beaker of water, with the reference
sensor in the liquid, as close tot the other sensor as posible. I
often point the IR gun at a thermostat or digital wall clock/temp to get a quick indication
of accuracy.

greg

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