Guest
On Wednesday, December 17, 2014 10:39:58 AM UTC, Bill Sloman wrote:
a bit childish
a bit childish
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Bill Sloman
Guest
On Thursday, 18 December 2014 20:21:03 UTC+11, meow...@care2.com wrote:
You'd know.
--
Bill Sloman, Sydney
On Wednesday, December 17, 2014 10:39:58 AM UTC, Bill Sloman wrote:
On Wednesday, 17 December 2014 20:23:02 UTC+11, meow...@care2.com wrote:
On Monday, December 15, 2014 10:56:12 PM UTC, Bill Sloman wrote:
On Tuesday, 16 December 2014 02:40:34 UTC+11, meow...@care2.com wrote:
On Monday, December 15, 2014 1:03:52 PM UTC, Bill Sloman wrote:
On Monday, 15 December 2014 22:59:35 UTC+11, meow...@care2.com wrote:
On Monday, December 15, 2014 11:27:10 AM UTC, Bill Sloman wrote:
On Monday, 15 December 2014 19:13:06 UTC+11, meow...@care2.com
wrote:
On Sunday, December 14, 2014 4:33:01 AM UTC, Bill Sloman wrote:
On Sunday, 14 December 2014 11:05:51 UTC+11, meow...@care2.com
wrote:
On Saturday, December 13, 2014 10:55:48 PM UTC,
meow...@care2.com wrote:
snip
I don't know what your skills are, but from what little you've said here "non-existent" would probably cover them.
incorrect
An unskilled response.
a bit childish
You'd know.
--
Bill Sloman, Sydney
P
Phil Allison
Guest
Bill Sloman wrote:
** Actually, I *was* pretty adventurous.
In order for the 555 to drive the gate of a triac for the enlarger's lamp - the whole circuit was "hot". It worked perfectly for several months and then one evening, went BANG.
The rotary switch was not able to stand 240VAC between its metal shaft and the nearby wiper track. A post mortem revealed the clearance was barely 0.4mm.
Version 1.1 included a HP darlington opto so one could safely ground the 555 part of the unit. Dedicated triac driver optos ( like MOCs ) were thin on the ground in Sydney back then - so I used a 2N4443 SCR inside a bridge and made a non isolated DC supply for the opto.
..... Phil
** Back in 1977, I made myself a darkroom timer for B&W printing from negatives in an enlarger. It was based on a NE555 monostable.
A rotary switch selected resistors wired in 1:1.4 sequence, equating to stops on a camera. Another switch multiplied time settings by 10. The range was from 1 second to 450 seconds. 4x15uF tantalums provided the delay and the x10 times switch operated by pulling the voltage on pin 5 up and down for long and short delays respectively.
The OP could use switched resistors with a maximum of say 5Mohms for time setting and a 20uF worth of film cap for delay. Then pull pin 5 towards the supply with a trim pot and resistor in series of about 1kohms each to get exactly 300 seconds - which also calibrates the unit.
5% accuracy and repeatability should be easily had.
Not all that adventurous for 1977.
** Actually, I *was* pretty adventurous.
In order for the 555 to drive the gate of a triac for the enlarger's lamp - the whole circuit was "hot". It worked perfectly for several months and then one evening, went BANG.
The rotary switch was not able to stand 240VAC between its metal shaft and the nearby wiper track. A post mortem revealed the clearance was barely 0.4mm.
Version 1.1 included a HP darlington opto so one could safely ground the 555 part of the unit. Dedicated triac driver optos ( like MOCs ) were thin on the ground in Sydney back then - so I used a 2N4443 SCR inside a bridge and made a non isolated DC supply for the opto.
..... Phil
M
Martin Brown
Guest
On 18/12/2014 01:59, Toyin wrote:
I think you need to explain what it is that you are trying to do before
it is possible to offer any sensible advice. You don't appear to have
grasped even the basic concepts of how electrical circuits work!
The super capacitor is performing the same function as a battery only
doing it very badly with a voltage output that falls away exponentially
with time under load. I can't imagine why you would want to do that.
OK there are a few specialist things like charging up a huge bank of EHT
capacitors very slowly and then letting rip discharging in a few us.
--
Regards,
Martin Brown
On Wednesday, December 17, 2014 2:20:13 AM UTC-5, mike wrote:
On 12/16/2014 7:57 PM, Toyin wrote:
On Monday, December 15, 2014 11:56:00 PM UTC-5, Toyin wrote:
I need a consultant to help me with my project for a fee. I would like to use a 555 timer circuit to generate a variable 1 to 5 minute timer to alternate between 2 bank of batteries that are connected to a charger and a load. There are four switches where two are on when the other two are off. Please send me a private email to <olutoyin at yahoo dot com> if you are interested and can help. Thanks!
I just want to thank everyone for your invaluable input. Since this is way over my head, I still need help and would contact some of the folks who had replied and shared their contact information. Thanks again, I do appreciate the suggestions.
-Toyin
Since nobody else acknowledged the elephant in the room, I'll take a stab.
Your objective isn't clearly stated...
If you're charging one battery while loading the other,
What happens at the switchover?
Break before make glitches the power off.
Make before break risks breaking something with high
current between the batteries.
It's likely that you'll have issues well beyond timing.
The microprocessor solution gives you the opportunity
to address them. And having A/D converters available lets
you monitor everything and possibly decide that time is
not the optimum switching criterion. Also lets you
log performance and shove data out a LED that that
you can read with a phone/PDA.
You're likely to be disappointed with any rational
approach to a 5-minute analog delay.
I'd back up a level in the system design and approach
the whole range of issues.
I'm curious to know exactly what problem the switchover
solves???
Hi Mike:
I wanted to power loads without the loads seeing the battery. So, the batteries will be connected to a charger as well as a super capacitor of equal voltage. So, the switch is to allow one battery to work while the other is on charge. I've been told this is not possible but I know wherever there's a will, there's always a way. Thanks for your insight. I truly appreciate it.
I think you need to explain what it is that you are trying to do before
it is possible to offer any sensible advice. You don't appear to have
grasped even the basic concepts of how electrical circuits work!
The super capacitor is performing the same function as a battery only
doing it very badly with a voltage output that falls away exponentially
with time under load. I can't imagine why you would want to do that.
OK there are a few specialist things like charging up a huge bank of EHT
capacitors very slowly and then letting rip discharging in a few us.
--
Regards,
Martin Brown
Guest
On Wednesday, December 17, 2014 1:40:08 PM UTC-5, John Larkin wrote:
You can scope out all the mold growth and structural member rot too.
On Tue, 16 Dec 2014 16:52:52 -0800 (PST),
bloggs.fredbloggs.fred@gmail.com wrote:
On Tuesday, December 16, 2014 9:56:47 AM UTC-5, John Larkin wrote:
On Tue, 16 Dec 2014 04:43:43 -0800 (PST),
bloggs.fredbloggs.fred@gmail.com wrote:
On Monday, December 15, 2014 11:41:05 PM UTC-5, John Larkin wrote:
On Mon, 15 Dec 2014 19:04:03 -0800 (PST),
bloggs.fredbloggs.fred@gmail.com wrote:
On Monday, December 15, 2014 6:53:20 PM UTC-5, Jim Thompson wrote:
Mean to work inside that narrow a space.
Give me a break. Today I planted B&B clump amelanchier canadensis with ball dimensions of 24 x 24 x 18 inches of water saturated clay. At about 110 lbs per cubic foot (http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/dirt-mud-densities-d_1727.html), this thing came in at between 500 and 600 Lbs, there is a slight taper to the cut so it's not a full 6 Ft^3. I had to hoist it about 250 ft to the planting location with an appliance dolly, dig a level hole to relatively precise dimensions, wrestle it into the hole, level it, flood it with 20 gals water, berm it, mulch it, admire it- about a two hour job- dunno why it always takes me so long.
Relative fun. I spent about 9 hours last weekend trying to fix the
leak in the living room ceiling. I've been battling this one for 15
years, and have got damned good at sheetrock repair.
Do you have any idea what the peak rainfall rate was? I heard the total there was only about 1.5", but, if it all comes down at once, it causes problems. A flat roof is anything less than 3 in 12 rise to run, they're non-trivial and require more than just slapping down a membrane.
I doubt that it ever hit 1" per hour. But our house looks down into a
wind tunnel called The Alamany Gap, so we get bursts of fat drops
going 50 MPH horizontally. That drives water into every nook and
cranny; sort of like having standing water on the *side* of the house.
Most roofs here are flat, with no visible pitch. I can walk most of
the block on peoples' roofs. The deck is basically a flat roof, too.
Tar and gravel construction.
There's a flat, roofed deck just above, with a sliding glass door. A
couple years ago, I had the whole deck re-roofed and a new sliding
door assembly installed. It still leaked.
1. Why are all contractors such jerks?
2. Why are all consumer products, regardless of price, such crap?
The roofing material should have gone UNDER the door frame. It didn't.
Well, it's not the roofing material but the "flashing" that's the problem. Grace is the de facto leader in state of the art flashing products.
https://grace.com/construction/en-us/Documents/TP-073J-V40.pdf
(surprisingly HomeDepot actually carries it...)
...is one example of their conformable, self-adhering, and easily installed product. Sounds like you need to lap it 4-6" minimum.
Too late now! I'd have to remove the entire sliding door thingie to
get under it.
People don't do carpentry any more, they use construction adhesive.
Makes things hard to work on. Trim boards come off with a chisel, one
wood sliver at a time.
The door frame is a bunch of insanely complex plastic extrusions,
designed to trap water in every possible place.
Among other things, I seriously hacked the door frame with a Dremel to
make channels to let the water out. A lot came out.
That doesn't sound right...Sounds like the door frame is too low on the roof deck. Tell the whiz you want an internal open gutter installed along the entire length of wall of the door, you'll need some kind of perforated metal grate covering the part where you step out the door. ( and this gutter needs slope -duh)
The frame is about 3" up, so it's not getting drowned. The projectile
water is hitting the glass, filling the channal below, and then
getting into the complex plastic structure.
So many things that I buy need to be redesigned. Consumer products are
such crap.
(I thought you'd enjoy a good bitchy world-gone-to-hell rant.)
Get a less complicated door and install it with "pan flashing."
http://www.buildingscience.com/documents/information-sheets/pan-flashing-for-exterior-wall-openings
The door you have now either defeats the pan flashing or the pan flashing was not installed or both.
--
John Larkin Highland Technology, Inc
picosecond timing laser drivers and controllers
jlarkin att highlandtechnology dott com
http://www.highlandtechnology.com
I just ordered a 10m length USB borescope camera, $20 from Amazon.
Next time it rains, I'll drill a bunch of holes in the ceiling and
scope the top of the sheetrock, to see where the water is coming from.
Small holes are easy to patch.
The borescope should be handy for other things, like scoping pipes or
seeing what things have fallen into the crack behind my workbench.
The one I bought looks like a generic camera to Win XP, but needs
software installed for Win7. Why did Microsoft break the generic USB
camera interface?
--
John Larkin Highland Technology, Inc
picosecond timing precision measurement
jlarkin att highlandtechnology dott com
http://www.highlandtechnology.com
You can scope out all the mold growth and structural member rot too.
J
Jasen Betts
Guest
On 2014-12-17, MK <mk@nospam.co.uk> wrote:
On a good day they're 0.23 ea at qty 25 in easy to use DIP packages,
> You can buy an 8 pin Cortex M0 for 0.33 (3k price break)
That's Ok if you can spend a grand on them.
you also need a voltage regulator...
CD4060 is probably the best soltion to the original problem.
today singles are 25c in SOIC or a buck in DIP,
I provisioned myself with DIP parts when they about 40c
--
umop apisdn
On 17/12/2014 07:19, mike wrote:
Just to add some numbers to that 555 v uP decision, LMC555CMN from
Farnell costs 0.29 each on a reel of 5k.
On a good day they're 0.23 ea at qty 25 in easy to use DIP packages,
> You can buy an 8 pin Cortex M0 for 0.33 (3k price break)
That's Ok if you can spend a grand on them.
you also need a voltage regulator...
(and there will be cheaper processors if you
look around). The extras to make the 555 give reliable 5 minute delays
will cost a lot more than ÂŁ0.04.
CD4060 is probably the best soltion to the original problem.
today singles are 25c in SOIC or a buck in DIP,
I provisioned myself with DIP parts when they about 40c
--
umop apisdn
Guest
On Thursday, December 18, 2014 10:52:52 AM UTC-5, John Larkin wrote:
It's the 70-70-70 rule- lemme see, that means 70% RH, 70oF and 70% wood moisture content, or more, simultaneously, equals a fantastic mold growth. Enjoy, mold farmer.
On Thu, 18 Dec 2014 06:43:30 -0800 (PST),
bloggs.fredbloggs.fred@gmail.com wrote:
On Wednesday, December 17, 2014 1:40:08 PM UTC-5, John Larkin wrote:
On Tue, 16 Dec 2014 16:52:52 -0800 (PST),
bloggs.fredbloggs.fred@gmail.com wrote:
On Tuesday, December 16, 2014 9:56:47 AM UTC-5, John Larkin wrote:
On Tue, 16 Dec 2014 04:43:43 -0800 (PST),
bloggs.fredbloggs.fred@gmail.com wrote:
On Monday, December 15, 2014 11:41:05 PM UTC-5, John Larkin wrote:
On Mon, 15 Dec 2014 19:04:03 -0800 (PST),
bloggs.fredbloggs.fred@gmail.com wrote:
On Monday, December 15, 2014 6:53:20 PM UTC-5, Jim Thompson wrote:
Mean to work inside that narrow a space.
Give me a break. Today I planted B&B clump amelanchier canadensis with ball dimensions of 24 x 24 x 18 inches of water saturated clay. At about 110 lbs per cubic foot (http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/dirt-mud-densities-d_1727.html), this thing came in at between 500 and 600 Lbs, there is a slight taper to the cut so it's not a full 6 Ft^3. I had to hoist it about 250 ft to the planting location with an appliance dolly, dig a level hole to relatively precise dimensions, wrestle it into the hole, level it, flood it with 20 gals water, berm it, mulch it, admire it- about a two hour job- dunno why it always takes me so long.
Relative fun. I spent about 9 hours last weekend trying to fix the
leak in the living room ceiling. I've been battling this one for 15
years, and have got damned good at sheetrock repair.
Do you have any idea what the peak rainfall rate was? I heard the total there was only about 1.5", but, if it all comes down at once, it causes problems. A flat roof is anything less than 3 in 12 rise to run, they're non-trivial and require more than just slapping down a membrane.
I doubt that it ever hit 1" per hour. But our house looks down into a
wind tunnel called The Alamany Gap, so we get bursts of fat drops
going 50 MPH horizontally. That drives water into every nook and
cranny; sort of like having standing water on the *side* of the house.
Most roofs here are flat, with no visible pitch. I can walk most of
the block on peoples' roofs. The deck is basically a flat roof, too..
Tar and gravel construction.
There's a flat, roofed deck just above, with a sliding glass door. A
couple years ago, I had the whole deck re-roofed and a new sliding
door assembly installed. It still leaked.
1. Why are all contractors such jerks?
2. Why are all consumer products, regardless of price, such crap?
The roofing material should have gone UNDER the door frame. It didn't.
Well, it's not the roofing material but the "flashing" that's the problem. Grace is the de facto leader in state of the art flashing products..
https://grace.com/construction/en-us/Documents/TP-073J-V40.pdf
(surprisingly HomeDepot actually carries it...)
...is one example of their conformable, self-adhering, and easily installed product. Sounds like you need to lap it 4-6" minimum.
Too late now! I'd have to remove the entire sliding door thingie to
get under it.
People don't do carpentry any more, they use construction adhesive.
Makes things hard to work on. Trim boards come off with a chisel, one
wood sliver at a time.
The door frame is a bunch of insanely complex plastic extrusions,
designed to trap water in every possible place.
Among other things, I seriously hacked the door frame with a Dremel to
make channels to let the water out. A lot came out.
That doesn't sound right...Sounds like the door frame is too low on the roof deck. Tell the whiz you want an internal open gutter installed along the entire length of wall of the door, you'll need some kind of perforated metal grate covering the part where you step out the door. ( and this gutter needs slope -duh)
The frame is about 3" up, so it's not getting drowned. The projectile
water is hitting the glass, filling the channal below, and then
getting into the complex plastic structure.
So many things that I buy need to be redesigned. Consumer products are
such crap.
(I thought you'd enjoy a good bitchy world-gone-to-hell rant.)
Get a less complicated door and install it with "pan flashing."
http://www.buildingscience.com/documents/information-sheets/pan-flashing-for-exterior-wall-openings
The door you have now either defeats the pan flashing or the pan flashing was not installed or both.
--
John Larkin Highland Technology, Inc
picosecond timing laser drivers and controllers
jlarkin att highlandtechnology dott com
http://www.highlandtechnology.com
I just ordered a 10m length USB borescope camera, $20 from Amazon.
Next time it rains, I'll drill a bunch of holes in the ceiling and
scope the top of the sheetrock, to see where the water is coming from.
Small holes are easy to patch.
The borescope should be handy for other things, like scoping pipes or
seeing what things have fallen into the crack behind my workbench.
The one I bought looks like a generic camera to Win XP, but needs
software installed for Win7. Why did Microsoft break the generic USB
camera interface?
--
John Larkin Highland Technology, Inc
picosecond timing precision measurement
jlarkin att highlandtechnology dott com
http://www.highlandtechnology.com
You can scope out all the mold growth and structural member rot too.
Ever cheerful, Freddy!
It's the 70-70-70 rule- lemme see, that means 70% RH, 70oF and 70% wood moisture content, or more, simultaneously, equals a fantastic mold growth. Enjoy, mold farmer.
--
John Larkin Highland Technology, Inc
picosecond timing laser drivers and controllers
jlarkin att highlandtechnology dott com
http://www.highlandtechnology.com
Guest
On Thursday, December 18, 2014 11:23:14 AM UTC-5, DecadentLinuxUserNumeroUno wrote:
<snip lowbrow trash>
What are you on these days, Grise?
If you're still breathing, you're not taking enough, lightweight.
<snip lowbrow trash>
What are you on these days, Grise?
If you're still breathing, you're not taking enough, lightweight.
Guest
On Thursday, December 18, 2014 12:12:44 PM UTC-5, John Larkin wrote:
The problem is the enclosed (wet) spaces inside the structure easily meet these levels unless you have dry air circulating through it, Sherlock. Crawl spaces are another area that easily meets these requirements, usually from water vapor coming in from the ground (concrete is actually a sieve of microchannels).
On Thu, 18 Dec 2014 09:04:53 -0800 (PST),
bloggs.fredbloggs.fred@gmail.com wrote:
On Thursday, December 18, 2014 10:52:52 AM UTC-5, John Larkin wrote:
On Thu, 18 Dec 2014 06:43:30 -0800 (PST),
bloggs.fredbloggs.fred@gmail.com wrote:
On Wednesday, December 17, 2014 1:40:08 PM UTC-5, John Larkin wrote:
On Tue, 16 Dec 2014 16:52:52 -0800 (PST),
bloggs.fredbloggs.fred@gmail.com wrote:
On Tuesday, December 16, 2014 9:56:47 AM UTC-5, John Larkin wrote:
On Tue, 16 Dec 2014 04:43:43 -0800 (PST),
bloggs.fredbloggs.fred@gmail.com wrote:
On Monday, December 15, 2014 11:41:05 PM UTC-5, John Larkin wrote:
On Mon, 15 Dec 2014 19:04:03 -0800 (PST),
bloggs.fredbloggs.fred@gmail.com wrote:
On Monday, December 15, 2014 6:53:20 PM UTC-5, Jim Thompson wrote:
Mean to work inside that narrow a space.
Give me a break. Today I planted B&B clump amelanchier canadensis with ball dimensions of 24 x 24 x 18 inches of water saturated clay. At about 110 lbs per cubic foot (http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/dirt-mud-densities-d_1727.html), this thing came in at between 500 and 600 Lbs, there is a slight taper to the cut so it's not a full 6 Ft^3. I had to hoist it about 250 ft to the planting location with an appliance dolly, dig a level hole to relatively precise dimensions, wrestle it into the hole, level it, flood it with 20 gals water, berm it, mulch it, admire it- about a two hour job- dunno why it always takes me so long.
Relative fun. I spent about 9 hours last weekend trying to fix the
leak in the living room ceiling. I've been battling this one for 15
years, and have got damned good at sheetrock repair.
Do you have any idea what the peak rainfall rate was? I heard the total there was only about 1.5", but, if it all comes down at once, it causes problems. A flat roof is anything less than 3 in 12 rise to run, they're non-trivial and require more than just slapping down a membrane.
I doubt that it ever hit 1" per hour. But our house looks down into a
wind tunnel called The Alamany Gap, so we get bursts of fat drops
going 50 MPH horizontally. That drives water into every nook and
cranny; sort of like having standing water on the *side* of the house.
Most roofs here are flat, with no visible pitch. I can walk most of
the block on peoples' roofs. The deck is basically a flat roof, too.
Tar and gravel construction.
There's a flat, roofed deck just above, with a sliding glass door. A
couple years ago, I had the whole deck re-roofed and a new sliding
door assembly installed. It still leaked.
1. Why are all contractors such jerks?
2. Why are all consumer products, regardless of price, such crap?
The roofing material should have gone UNDER the door frame. It didn't.
Well, it's not the roofing material but the "flashing" that's the problem. Grace is the de facto leader in state of the art flashing products.
https://grace.com/construction/en-us/Documents/TP-073J-V40.pdf
(surprisingly HomeDepot actually carries it...)
...is one example of their conformable, self-adhering, and easily installed product. Sounds like you need to lap it 4-6" minimum.
Too late now! I'd have to remove the entire sliding door thingie to
get under it.
People don't do carpentry any more, they use construction adhesive.
Makes things hard to work on. Trim boards come off with a chisel, one
wood sliver at a time.
The door frame is a bunch of insanely complex plastic extrusions,
designed to trap water in every possible place.
Among other things, I seriously hacked the door frame with a Dremel to
make channels to let the water out. A lot came out.
That doesn't sound right...Sounds like the door frame is too low on the roof deck. Tell the whiz you want an internal open gutter installed along the entire length of wall of the door, you'll need some kind of perforated metal grate covering the part where you step out the door. ( and this gutter needs slope -duh)
The frame is about 3" up, so it's not getting drowned. The projectile
water is hitting the glass, filling the channal below, and then
getting into the complex plastic structure.
So many things that I buy need to be redesigned. Consumer products are
such crap.
(I thought you'd enjoy a good bitchy world-gone-to-hell rant.)
Get a less complicated door and install it with "pan flashing."
http://www.buildingscience.com/documents/information-sheets/pan-flashing-for-exterior-wall-openings
The door you have now either defeats the pan flashing or the pan flashing was not installed or both.
--
John Larkin Highland Technology, Inc
picosecond timing laser drivers and controllers
jlarkin att highlandtechnology dott com
http://www.highlandtechnology.com
I just ordered a 10m length USB borescope camera, $20 from Amazon.
Next time it rains, I'll drill a bunch of holes in the ceiling and
scope the top of the sheetrock, to see where the water is coming from.
Small holes are easy to patch.
The borescope should be handy for other things, like scoping pipes or
seeing what things have fallen into the crack behind my workbench.
The one I bought looks like a generic camera to Win XP, but needs
software installed for Win7. Why did Microsoft break the generic USB
camera interface?
--
John Larkin Highland Technology, Inc
picosecond timing precision measurement
jlarkin att highlandtechnology dott com
http://www.highlandtechnology.com
You can scope out all the mold growth and structural member rot too.
Ever cheerful, Freddy!
It's the 70-70-70 rule- lemme see, that means 70% RH, 70oF and 70% wood moisture content, or more, simultaneously, equals a fantastic mold growth. Enjoy, mold farmer.
We don't live in the tropics!
The problem is the enclosed (wet) spaces inside the structure easily meet these levels unless you have dry air circulating through it, Sherlock. Crawl spaces are another area that easily meets these requirements, usually from water vapor coming in from the ground (concrete is actually a sieve of microchannels).
--
John Larkin Highland Technology, Inc
picosecond timing laser drivers and controllers
jlarkin att highlandtechnology dott com
http://www.highlandtechnology.com
R
Ralph Barone
Guest
mike <ham789@netzero.net> wrote:
I would agree. The OP should state in excruciating detail exactly what it
is he is trying to accomplish. I suspect the thing that is going to bite
him hard on the ass will have nothing to do with the core timer
implementation.
On 12/17/2014 7:39 PM, Phil Allison wrote:
mike wrote:
My point, based on 40 years of watching very smart engineers
bang their heads against the wall trying to use devices unsuited for the
job,
is that reexamining the system architecture is likely to be more
fruitful than trying to design around all the subtle gotchas
required to get a reliable 5-minutes out of a 555.
** Back in 1977, I made myself a darkroom timer for B&W printing from
negatives in an enlarger. It was based on a NE555 monostable.
A rotary switch selected resistors wired in 1:1.4 sequence, equating to
stops on a camera. Another switch multiplied time settings by 10. The
range was from 1 second to 450 seconds. 4x15uF tantalums provided the
delay and the x10 times switch operated by pulling the voltage on pin 5
up and down for long and short delays respectively.
The OP could use switched resistors with a maximum of say 5Mohms for
time setting and a 20uF worth of film cap for delay. Then pull pin 5
towards the supply with a trim pot and resistor in series of about
1kohms each to get exactly 300 seconds - which also calibrates the unit.
5% accuracy and repeatability should be easily had.
.... Phil
I'd agree that the 555 is one of the most versatile/useful devices in history.
Emphasis on "history".
In 1977, that solution may have been far better than the alternatives.
Add up the parts cost today and compare that to a microcontroller solution.
I built a long-duration timer out of a pair of unijunction transistors.
But I wouldn't recommend it today.
Based on what little we know about the application, I judge that
there are a lot more issues involved in sequencing the transfer
that will require additional timing functions. Bite the bullet and
put in a microcontroller so you can fix stuff as you learn about those
problems.
I'd still recommend going back to the system architecture and taking
another look.
I would agree. The OP should state in excruciating detail exactly what it
is he is trying to accomplish. I suspect the thing that is going to bite
him hard on the ass will have nothing to do with the core timer
implementation.
J
John Larkin
Guest
On Thu, 18 Dec 2014 06:43:30 -0800 (PST),
bloggs.fredbloggs.fred@gmail.com wrote:
Ever cheerful, Freddy!
--
John Larkin Highland Technology, Inc
picosecond timing laser drivers and controllers
jlarkin att highlandtechnology dott com
http://www.highlandtechnology.com
bloggs.fredbloggs.fred@gmail.com wrote:
On Wednesday, December 17, 2014 1:40:08 PM UTC-5, John Larkin wrote:
On Tue, 16 Dec 2014 16:52:52 -0800 (PST),
bloggs.fredbloggs.fred@gmail.com wrote:
On Tuesday, December 16, 2014 9:56:47 AM UTC-5, John Larkin wrote:
On Tue, 16 Dec 2014 04:43:43 -0800 (PST),
bloggs.fredbloggs.fred@gmail.com wrote:
On Monday, December 15, 2014 11:41:05 PM UTC-5, John Larkin wrote:
On Mon, 15 Dec 2014 19:04:03 -0800 (PST),
bloggs.fredbloggs.fred@gmail.com wrote:
On Monday, December 15, 2014 6:53:20 PM UTC-5, Jim Thompson wrote:
Mean to work inside that narrow a space.
Give me a break. Today I planted B&B clump amelanchier canadensis with ball dimensions of 24 x 24 x 18 inches of water saturated clay. At about 110 lbs per cubic foot (http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/dirt-mud-densities-d_1727.html), this thing came in at between 500 and 600 Lbs, there is a slight taper to the cut so it's not a full 6 Ft^3. I had to hoist it about 250 ft to the planting location with an appliance dolly, dig a level hole to relatively precise dimensions, wrestle it into the hole, level it, flood it with 20 gals water, berm it, mulch it, admire it- about a two hour job- dunno why it always takes me so long.
Relative fun. I spent about 9 hours last weekend trying to fix the
leak in the living room ceiling. I've been battling this one for 15
years, and have got damned good at sheetrock repair.
Do you have any idea what the peak rainfall rate was? I heard the total there was only about 1.5", but, if it all comes down at once, it causes problems. A flat roof is anything less than 3 in 12 rise to run, they're non-trivial and require more than just slapping down a membrane.
I doubt that it ever hit 1" per hour. But our house looks down into a
wind tunnel called The Alamany Gap, so we get bursts of fat drops
going 50 MPH horizontally. That drives water into every nook and
cranny; sort of like having standing water on the *side* of the house.
Most roofs here are flat, with no visible pitch. I can walk most of
the block on peoples' roofs. The deck is basically a flat roof, too.
Tar and gravel construction.
There's a flat, roofed deck just above, with a sliding glass door. A
couple years ago, I had the whole deck re-roofed and a new sliding
door assembly installed. It still leaked.
1. Why are all contractors such jerks?
2. Why are all consumer products, regardless of price, such crap?
The roofing material should have gone UNDER the door frame. It didn't.
Well, it's not the roofing material but the "flashing" that's the problem. Grace is the de facto leader in state of the art flashing products.
https://grace.com/construction/en-us/Documents/TP-073J-V40.pdf
(surprisingly HomeDepot actually carries it...)
...is one example of their conformable, self-adhering, and easily installed product. Sounds like you need to lap it 4-6" minimum.
Too late now! I'd have to remove the entire sliding door thingie to
get under it.
People don't do carpentry any more, they use construction adhesive.
Makes things hard to work on. Trim boards come off with a chisel, one
wood sliver at a time.
The door frame is a bunch of insanely complex plastic extrusions,
designed to trap water in every possible place.
Among other things, I seriously hacked the door frame with a Dremel to
make channels to let the water out. A lot came out.
That doesn't sound right...Sounds like the door frame is too low on the roof deck. Tell the whiz you want an internal open gutter installed along the entire length of wall of the door, you'll need some kind of perforated metal grate covering the part where you step out the door. ( and this gutter needs slope -duh)
The frame is about 3" up, so it's not getting drowned. The projectile
water is hitting the glass, filling the channal below, and then
getting into the complex plastic structure.
So many things that I buy need to be redesigned. Consumer products are
such crap.
(I thought you'd enjoy a good bitchy world-gone-to-hell rant.)
Get a less complicated door and install it with "pan flashing."
http://www.buildingscience.com/documents/information-sheets/pan-flashing-for-exterior-wall-openings
The door you have now either defeats the pan flashing or the pan flashing was not installed or both.
--
John Larkin Highland Technology, Inc
picosecond timing laser drivers and controllers
jlarkin att highlandtechnology dott com
http://www.highlandtechnology.com
I just ordered a 10m length USB borescope camera, $20 from Amazon.
Next time it rains, I'll drill a bunch of holes in the ceiling and
scope the top of the sheetrock, to see where the water is coming from.
Small holes are easy to patch.
The borescope should be handy for other things, like scoping pipes or
seeing what things have fallen into the crack behind my workbench.
The one I bought looks like a generic camera to Win XP, but needs
software installed for Win7. Why did Microsoft break the generic USB
camera interface?
--
John Larkin Highland Technology, Inc
picosecond timing precision measurement
jlarkin att highlandtechnology dott com
http://www.highlandtechnology.com
You can scope out all the mold growth and structural member rot too.
Ever cheerful, Freddy!
--
John Larkin Highland Technology, Inc
picosecond timing laser drivers and controllers
jlarkin att highlandtechnology dott com
http://www.highlandtechnology.com
D
DecadentLinuxUserNumeroUn
Guest
On Thu, 18 Dec 2014 07:52:49 -0800, John Larkin
<jlarkin@highlandtechnology.com> Gave us:
He had just gotten done looking at his dick.
<jlarkin@highlandtechnology.com> Gave us:
On Thu, 18 Dec 2014 06:43:30 -0800 (PST),
bloggs.fredbloggs.fred@gmail.com wrote:
You can scope out all the mold growth and structural member rot too.
Ever cheerful, Freddy!
He had just gotten done looking at his dick.
J
John Larkin
Guest
On Thu, 18 Dec 2014 09:04:53 -0800 (PST),
bloggs.fredbloggs.fred@gmail.com wrote:
We don't live in the tropics!
--
John Larkin Highland Technology, Inc
picosecond timing laser drivers and controllers
jlarkin att highlandtechnology dott com
http://www.highlandtechnology.com
bloggs.fredbloggs.fred@gmail.com wrote:
On Thursday, December 18, 2014 10:52:52 AM UTC-5, John Larkin wrote:
On Thu, 18 Dec 2014 06:43:30 -0800 (PST),
bloggs.fredbloggs.fred@gmail.com wrote:
On Wednesday, December 17, 2014 1:40:08 PM UTC-5, John Larkin wrote:
On Tue, 16 Dec 2014 16:52:52 -0800 (PST),
bloggs.fredbloggs.fred@gmail.com wrote:
On Tuesday, December 16, 2014 9:56:47 AM UTC-5, John Larkin wrote:
On Tue, 16 Dec 2014 04:43:43 -0800 (PST),
bloggs.fredbloggs.fred@gmail.com wrote:
On Monday, December 15, 2014 11:41:05 PM UTC-5, John Larkin wrote:
On Mon, 15 Dec 2014 19:04:03 -0800 (PST),
bloggs.fredbloggs.fred@gmail.com wrote:
On Monday, December 15, 2014 6:53:20 PM UTC-5, Jim Thompson wrote:
Mean to work inside that narrow a space.
Give me a break. Today I planted B&B clump amelanchier canadensis with ball dimensions of 24 x 24 x 18 inches of water saturated clay. At about 110 lbs per cubic foot (http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/dirt-mud-densities-d_1727.html), this thing came in at between 500 and 600 Lbs, there is a slight taper to the cut so it's not a full 6 Ft^3. I had to hoist it about 250 ft to the planting location with an appliance dolly, dig a level hole to relatively precise dimensions, wrestle it into the hole, level it, flood it with 20 gals water, berm it, mulch it, admire it- about a two hour job- dunno why it always takes me so long.
Relative fun. I spent about 9 hours last weekend trying to fix the
leak in the living room ceiling. I've been battling this one for 15
years, and have got damned good at sheetrock repair.
Do you have any idea what the peak rainfall rate was? I heard the total there was only about 1.5", but, if it all comes down at once, it causes problems. A flat roof is anything less than 3 in 12 rise to run, they're non-trivial and require more than just slapping down a membrane.
I doubt that it ever hit 1" per hour. But our house looks down into a
wind tunnel called The Alamany Gap, so we get bursts of fat drops
going 50 MPH horizontally. That drives water into every nook and
cranny; sort of like having standing water on the *side* of the house.
Most roofs here are flat, with no visible pitch. I can walk most of
the block on peoples' roofs. The deck is basically a flat roof, too.
Tar and gravel construction.
There's a flat, roofed deck just above, with a sliding glass door. A
couple years ago, I had the whole deck re-roofed and a new sliding
door assembly installed. It still leaked.
1. Why are all contractors such jerks?
2. Why are all consumer products, regardless of price, such crap?
The roofing material should have gone UNDER the door frame. It didn't.
Well, it's not the roofing material but the "flashing" that's the problem. Grace is the de facto leader in state of the art flashing products.
https://grace.com/construction/en-us/Documents/TP-073J-V40.pdf
(surprisingly HomeDepot actually carries it...)
...is one example of their conformable, self-adhering, and easily installed product. Sounds like you need to lap it 4-6" minimum.
Too late now! I'd have to remove the entire sliding door thingie to
get under it.
People don't do carpentry any more, they use construction adhesive.
Makes things hard to work on. Trim boards come off with a chisel, one
wood sliver at a time.
The door frame is a bunch of insanely complex plastic extrusions,
designed to trap water in every possible place.
Among other things, I seriously hacked the door frame with a Dremel to
make channels to let the water out. A lot came out.
That doesn't sound right...Sounds like the door frame is too low on the roof deck. Tell the whiz you want an internal open gutter installed along the entire length of wall of the door, you'll need some kind of perforated metal grate covering the part where you step out the door. ( and this gutter needs slope -duh)
The frame is about 3" up, so it's not getting drowned. The projectile
water is hitting the glass, filling the channal below, and then
getting into the complex plastic structure.
So many things that I buy need to be redesigned. Consumer products are
such crap.
(I thought you'd enjoy a good bitchy world-gone-to-hell rant.)
Get a less complicated door and install it with "pan flashing."
http://www.buildingscience.com/documents/information-sheets/pan-flashing-for-exterior-wall-openings
The door you have now either defeats the pan flashing or the pan flashing was not installed or both.
--
John Larkin Highland Technology, Inc
picosecond timing laser drivers and controllers
jlarkin att highlandtechnology dott com
http://www.highlandtechnology.com
I just ordered a 10m length USB borescope camera, $20 from Amazon.
Next time it rains, I'll drill a bunch of holes in the ceiling and
scope the top of the sheetrock, to see where the water is coming from.
Small holes are easy to patch.
The borescope should be handy for other things, like scoping pipes or
seeing what things have fallen into the crack behind my workbench.
The one I bought looks like a generic camera to Win XP, but needs
software installed for Win7. Why did Microsoft break the generic USB
camera interface?
--
John Larkin Highland Technology, Inc
picosecond timing precision measurement
jlarkin att highlandtechnology dott com
http://www.highlandtechnology.com
You can scope out all the mold growth and structural member rot too.
Ever cheerful, Freddy!
It's the 70-70-70 rule- lemme see, that means 70% RH, 70oF and 70% wood moisture content, or more, simultaneously, equals a fantastic mold growth. Enjoy, mold farmer.
We don't live in the tropics!
--
John Larkin Highland Technology, Inc
picosecond timing laser drivers and controllers
jlarkin att highlandtechnology dott com
http://www.highlandtechnology.com
D
Don Y
Guest
On 12/16/2014 11:23 PM, bitrex wrote:
I suspect the most "taxing" applications for them would be MSOffice.
I was (personally) hoping for something more along the lines of:
X was developed to address this market segment; Y is like X
but cheaper because this capability has been elided; Z is a
die shrink of Y; Q is a power-hungry version of Z aimed at
this market niche; etc. (i.e., so *I* get an education as well)
Don Y <this@is.not.me.com> Wrote in message:
Hi,
A group for which I'd built a small "computer lab" dropped me
a note, today, indicating that they have a donor (business)
willing to supply them with "newer" (but still not "current")
machines (these are desktops).
Apparently, they have been offered several different make/models
(end of year "donate stuff to charity and write it off!").
Other than physical size and appearance, they are clueless as to
how to make this decision.
*I*, OTOH, am just SLIGHTLY less clueless (I know more about
screwdrivers than PC's!)
Things like amount of RAM *installed* aren't issues (I can freely get
whatever RAM I need). Ditto size of disk drive, optical media, etc.
(I'm not so sure about the video cards, though...)
This leaves clock frequency and number of cores as the big issues.
But, Intel (and AMD) have polluted the CPU namespace with so many
different models -- Pentium D, M, Core Duo, Xeon, Athlon, Megatron,
etc. -- that I suspect even those numbers are apples and oranges.
If the PCs have processors with any of those names, except for
maybe Xeon, it means they're at least ~7 years old and won't be
great for high performance applications; they'll be fine for the
Web and youtube but for that the specifics don't really matter
that much.
I suspect the most "taxing" applications for them would be MSOffice.
Find out the processors of the candidates and look here:
http://www.cpubenchmark.net/cpu_list.php
and pick the best...
I was (personally) hoping for something more along the lines of:
X was developed to address this market segment; Y is like X
but cheaper because this capability has been elided; Z is a
die shrink of Y; Q is a power-hungry version of Z aimed at
this market niche; etc. (i.e., so *I* get an education as well)
Guest
On Thursday, December 18, 2014 3:58:53 PM UTC-5, John Larkin wrote:
SFDPH thinks it is a problem there.
https://www.sfdph.org/dph/files/EHSdocs/ehsPublsdocs/Mold.pdf
On Thu, 18 Dec 2014 09:21:31 -0800 (PST),
bloggs.fredbloggs.fred@gmail.com wrote:
On Thursday, December 18, 2014 12:12:44 PM UTC-5, John Larkin wrote:
On Thu, 18 Dec 2014 09:04:53 -0800 (PST),
bloggs.fredbloggs.fred@gmail.com wrote:
On Thursday, December 18, 2014 10:52:52 AM UTC-5, John Larkin wrote:
On Thu, 18 Dec 2014 06:43:30 -0800 (PST),
bloggs.fredbloggs.fred@gmail.com wrote:
On Wednesday, December 17, 2014 1:40:08 PM UTC-5, John Larkin wrote:
On Tue, 16 Dec 2014 16:52:52 -0800 (PST),
bloggs.fredbloggs.fred@gmail.com wrote:
On Tuesday, December 16, 2014 9:56:47 AM UTC-5, John Larkin wrote:
On Tue, 16 Dec 2014 04:43:43 -0800 (PST),
bloggs.fredbloggs.fred@gmail.com wrote:
On Monday, December 15, 2014 11:41:05 PM UTC-5, John Larkin wrote:
On Mon, 15 Dec 2014 19:04:03 -0800 (PST),
bloggs.fredbloggs.fred@gmail.com wrote:
On Monday, December 15, 2014 6:53:20 PM UTC-5, Jim Thompson wrote:
Mean to work inside that narrow a space.
Give me a break. Today I planted B&B clump amelanchier canadensis with ball dimensions of 24 x 24 x 18 inches of water saturated clay. At about 110 lbs per cubic foot (http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/dirt-mud-densities-d_1727.html), this thing came in at between 500 and 600 Lbs, there is a slight taper to the cut so it's not a full 6 Ft^3. I had to hoist it about 250 ft to the planting location with an appliance dolly, dig a level hole to relatively precise dimensions, wrestle it into the hole, level it, flood it with 20 gals water, berm it, mulch it, admire it- about a two hour job- dunno why it always takes me so long.
Relative fun. I spent about 9 hours last weekend trying to fix the
leak in the living room ceiling. I've been battling this one for 15
years, and have got damned good at sheetrock repair.
Do you have any idea what the peak rainfall rate was? I heard the total there was only about 1.5", but, if it all comes down at once, it causes problems. A flat roof is anything less than 3 in 12 rise to run, they're non-trivial and require more than just slapping down a membrane.
I doubt that it ever hit 1" per hour. But our house looks down into a
wind tunnel called The Alamany Gap, so we get bursts of fat drops
going 50 MPH horizontally. That drives water into every nook and
cranny; sort of like having standing water on the *side* of the house.
Most roofs here are flat, with no visible pitch. I can walk most of
the block on peoples' roofs. The deck is basically a flat roof, too.
Tar and gravel construction.
There's a flat, roofed deck just above, with a sliding glass door. A
couple years ago, I had the whole deck re-roofed and a new sliding
door assembly installed. It still leaked.
1. Why are all contractors such jerks?
2. Why are all consumer products, regardless of price, such crap?
The roofing material should have gone UNDER the door frame.. It didn't.
Well, it's not the roofing material but the "flashing" that's the problem. Grace is the de facto leader in state of the art flashing products.
https://grace.com/construction/en-us/Documents/TP-073J-V40.pdf
(surprisingly HomeDepot actually carries it...)
...is one example of their conformable, self-adhering, and easily installed product. Sounds like you need to lap it 4-6" minimum.
Too late now! I'd have to remove the entire sliding door thingie to
get under it.
People don't do carpentry any more, they use construction adhesive.
Makes things hard to work on. Trim boards come off with a chisel, one
wood sliver at a time.
The door frame is a bunch of insanely complex plastic extrusions,
designed to trap water in every possible place.
Among other things, I seriously hacked the door frame with a Dremel to
make channels to let the water out. A lot came out.
That doesn't sound right...Sounds like the door frame is too low on the roof deck. Tell the whiz you want an internal open gutter installed along the entire length of wall of the door, you'll need some kind of perforated metal grate covering the part where you step out the door. ( and this gutter needs slope -duh)
The frame is about 3" up, so it's not getting drowned. The projectile
water is hitting the glass, filling the channal below, and then
getting into the complex plastic structure.
So many things that I buy need to be redesigned. Consumer products are
such crap.
(I thought you'd enjoy a good bitchy world-gone-to-hell rant.)
Get a less complicated door and install it with "pan flashing."
http://www.buildingscience.com/documents/information-sheets/pan-flashing-for-exterior-wall-openings
The door you have now either defeats the pan flashing or the pan flashing was not installed or both.
--
John Larkin Highland Technology, Inc
picosecond timing laser drivers and controllers
jlarkin att highlandtechnology dott com
http://www.highlandtechnology.com
I just ordered a 10m length USB borescope camera, $20 from Amazon.
Next time it rains, I'll drill a bunch of holes in the ceiling and
scope the top of the sheetrock, to see where the water is coming from.
Small holes are easy to patch.
The borescope should be handy for other things, like scoping pipes or
seeing what things have fallen into the crack behind my workbench.
The one I bought looks like a generic camera to Win XP, but needs
software installed for Win7. Why did Microsoft break the generic USB
camera interface?
--
John Larkin Highland Technology, Inc
picosecond timing precision measurement
jlarkin att highlandtechnology dott com
http://www.highlandtechnology.com
You can scope out all the mold growth and structural member rot too.
Ever cheerful, Freddy!
It's the 70-70-70 rule- lemme see, that means 70% RH, 70oF and 70% wood moisture content, or more, simultaneously, equals a fantastic mold growth. Enjoy, mold farmer.
We don't live in the tropics!
The problem is the enclosed (wet) spaces inside the structure easily meet these levels unless you have dry air circulating through it, Sherlock. Crawl spaces are another area that easily meets these requirements, usually from water vapor coming in from the ground (concrete is actually a sieve of microchannels).
Mold is not generally a problem in San Francisco, and certainly not a
problem in Truckee, where the RH is generally below 30%. Wet towels
dry impressively fast up there, and you get really cold when you step
out of the shower.
SFDPH thinks it is a problem there.
https://www.sfdph.org/dph/files/EHSdocs/ehsPublsdocs/Mold.pdf
--
John Larkin Highland Technology, Inc
picosecond timing precision measurement
jlarkin att highlandtechnology dott com
http://www.highlandtechnology.com
D
Don Y
Guest
Hi Martin,
On 12/17/2014 2:58 AM, Martin Brown wrote:
Exactly. Benchmarks really only make sense if you are *doing*
exactly what is being benchmarked in exactly the same proportions!
Yikes! This (email/WWW/etc.) machine is a Core2 Duo 1.86 -- about 1100
on your chart. I've not seen any issues with things like web browsing
(which, nowadays, is a piggish application). No office suite on this
machine (we don't use them) but I'd imagine it would also be speedy enough
for that.
[I always wonder how developers can burn so many BILLIONS of instruction
cycles doing so (apparently) little! :< ]
I *think* their uses will be MSOffice, web browsing, et ilk. OTOH, I imagine
viewing lots of (youtube) videos, Flash presentations (ahem "advertisements"),
etc. They can also afford to lag behind "current" OS's (e.g., the next
machines will probably get Vista or W7).
I, OTOH, am curious as to the markets (applications) targeted by each of these
various flavors of CPU. Originally, it was easy to see *big* differences in
product offerings (e.g., 386 being the first *practical* "big machine"
architecturally). With internal FPU? Without? 16b bus? etc.
But, I long ago gave up trying to sort out where the sweet spot lies. As long
as my machines are faster than *me*, I'm happy. No idea how many gazillions
of opcodes get executed waiting for me to type the next line of code or decide
which two pins should be connected by a particular signal, etc. (and, I don't
need to sit and stare at the screen while doing a "make world" or autorouting
a PCB! There's always something else that can use my time...)
On 12/17/2014 2:58 AM, Martin Brown wrote:
On 17/12/2014 05:46, Don Y wrote:
A group for which I'd built a small "computer lab" dropped me
a note, today, indicating that they have a donor (business)
willing to supply them with "newer" (but still not "current")
machines (these are desktops).
Anyone care to venture a *brief* description of the relative strengths
of this alphabet soup? And, a rough guide as to how to *try* to
relate specs from one "family" to another? E.g., if all you're doing
is browsing the web, MHz may be a good indicator. OTOH, if you're
watching *videos* (without GPU accelerator), then ....? Doing CAD
work would favor...? etc.
Sorry, I realize this is probably one of those questions to which a
firm answer is probably wishful thinking. It would, however, also
benefit *me* to get a better understanding of the markets addressed
by each of these.
Simple solution is check the figure of merit on CPU benchmarks.
It isn't perfect since some CPUs excel at eg video transcoding.
http://www.cpubenchmark.net/
Exactly. Benchmarks really only make sense if you are *doing*
exactly what is being benchmarked in exactly the same proportions!
Hyperthreading isn't an advantage unless the application is *very* specific an
extremely easy to parallelise. Most real problems go memory bandwidth limited
without using all the available CPU threads.
Anything with a figure of merit 3000+ will be OK for most basic uses including
Yikes! This (email/WWW/etc.) machine is a Core2 Duo 1.86 -- about 1100
on your chart. I've not seen any issues with things like web browsing
(which, nowadays, is a piggish application). No office suite on this
machine (we don't use them) but I'd imagine it would also be speedy enough
for that.
[I always wonder how developers can burn so many BILLIONS of instruction
cycles doing so (apparently) little! :< ]
small amounts of video editing - obviously the higher the better. I prefer
Intel CPUs myself but that is only because of past experience with a batch of
self immolating AMD ones.
I *think* their uses will be MSOffice, web browsing, et ilk. OTOH, I imagine
viewing lots of (youtube) videos, Flash presentations (ahem "advertisements"),
etc. They can also afford to lag behind "current" OS's (e.g., the next
machines will probably get Vista or W7).
I, OTOH, am curious as to the markets (applications) targeted by each of these
various flavors of CPU. Originally, it was easy to see *big* differences in
product offerings (e.g., 386 being the first *practical* "big machine"
architecturally). With internal FPU? Without? 16b bus? etc.
But, I long ago gave up trying to sort out where the sweet spot lies. As long
as my machines are faster than *me*, I'm happy. No idea how many gazillions
of opcodes get executed waiting for me to type the next line of code or decide
which two pins should be connected by a particular signal, etc. (and, I don't
need to sit and stare at the screen while doing a "make world" or autorouting
a PCB! There's always something else that can use my time...)
B
Bill Sloman
Guest
On Friday, 19 December 2014 11:26:46 UTC+11, Maynard A. Philbrook Jr. wrote:
No. Just anther typo.
http://www.onsemi.com/pub/Collateral/MC14518B-D.PDF
I'd dug out the above data sheet when I posted the commnet, so it was a standard error of action - in this case a deletion.
Most people would have been able to work that out from the context.
--
Bill Sloman, Sydney
In article <037e2d37-70c4-40eb-a1dd-f37161710b0f@googlegroups.com>,
bill.sloman@gmail.com says...
On Thursday, 18 December 2014 14:40:02 UTC+11, Phil Allison wrote:
mike wrote:
My point, based on 40 years of watching very smart engineers
bang their heads against the wall trying to use devices unsuited for the
job,
is that reexamining the system architecture is likely to be more
fruitful than trying to design around all the subtle gotchas
required to get a reliable 5-minutes out of a 555.
** Back in 1977, I made myself a darkroom timer for B&W printing from negatives in an enlarger. It was based on a NE555 monostable.
A rotary switch selected resistors wired in 1:1.4 sequence, equating to stops on a camera. Another switch multiplied time settings by 10. The range was from 1 second to 450 seconds. 4x15uF tantalums provided the delay and the x10 times switch operated by pulling the voltage on pin 5 up and down for long and short delays respectively.
The OP could use switched resistors with a maximum of say 5Mohms for time setting and a 20uF worth of film cap for delay. Then pull pin 5 towards the supply with a trim pot and resistor in series of about 1kohms each to get exactly 300 seconds - which also calibrates the unit.
5% accuracy and repeatability should be easily had.
Not all that adventurous for 1977. CMOS had become relatively cheap by
then, so a CD4060 and a 32768 Hz watch crystal could have given you a
much more accurate time base. The nice thing about CMOS was that it
offered quite wide counters in a single cheap package - 12-bits in the
CD4040, and two decimal decades in the MC145*1*8.
You know Bill, the last I time I checked and have known for years a
MC1458 is a dual op-amp...
Did we slip with the data collection, again ?
No. Just anther typo.
http://www.onsemi.com/pub/Collateral/MC14518B-D.PDF
I'd dug out the above data sheet when I posted the commnet, so it was a standard error of action - in this case a deletion.
Most people would have been able to work that out from the context.
--
Bill Sloman, Sydney
Guest
On Thursday, December 18, 2014 7:55:55 PM UTC-5, Bill Bowden wrote:
There are already products out there to handle this application.
Example:
http://www.powerstream.com/48V-backup.htm
They fall under "power supply battery charger."
"Martin Brown" <|||newspam|||@nezumi.demon.co.uk> wrote in message
news:q6xkw.458132$CW3.158177@fx07.am4...
On 18/12/2014 01:59, Toyin wrote:
On Wednesday, December 17, 2014 2:20:13 AM UTC-5, mike wrote:
On 12/16/2014 7:57 PM, Toyin wrote:
On Monday, December 15, 2014 11:56:00 PM UTC-5, Toyin wrote:
I need a consultant to help me with my project for a fee. I would like
to use a 555 timer circuit to generate a variable 1 to 5 minute timer
to alternate between 2 bank of batteries that are connected to a
charger and a load. There are four switches where two are on when the
other two are off. Please send me a private email to <olutoyin at
yahoo dot com> if you are interested and can help. Thanks!
I just want to thank everyone for your invaluable input. Since this is
way over my head, I still need help and would contact some of the folks
who had replied and shared their contact information. Thanks again, I
do appreciate the suggestions.
-Toyin
Since nobody else acknowledged the elephant in the room, I'll take a
stab.
Your objective isn't clearly stated...
If you're charging one battery while loading the other,
What happens at the switchover?
Break before make glitches the power off.
Make before break risks breaking something with high
current between the batteries.
It's likely that you'll have issues well beyond timing.
The microprocessor solution gives you the opportunity
to address them. And having A/D converters available lets
you monitor everything and possibly decide that time is
not the optimum switching criterion. Also lets you
log performance and shove data out a LED that that
you can read with a phone/PDA.
You're likely to be disappointed with any rational
approach to a 5-minute analog delay.
I'd back up a level in the system design and approach
the whole range of issues.
I'm curious to know exactly what problem the switchover
solves???
Hi Mike:
I wanted to power loads without the loads seeing the battery. So, the
batteries will be connected to a charger as well as a super capacitor of
equal voltage. So, the switch is to allow one battery to work while the
other is on charge. I've been told this is not possible but I know
wherever there's a will, there's always a way. Thanks for your insight.
I truly appreciate it.
I think you need to explain what it is that you are trying to do before it
is possible to offer any sensible advice. You don't appear to have grasped
even the basic concepts of how electrical circuits work!
The super capacitor is performing the same function as a battery only
doing it very badly with a voltage output that falls away exponentially
with time under load. I can't imagine why you would want to do that.
OK there are a few specialist things like charging up a huge bank of EHT
capacitors very slowly and then letting rip discharging in a few us.
--
Regards,
Martin Brown
I think he wants to use 2 sets of 48 volt batteries to supply 250 watts at
120VAC through an inverter while at the same time charging the second set of
batteries from renewable sources such as solar and wind. He needs a system
to manage that operation and also a regulator to prevent overcharge. He has
implemented the system using manual switches but has limited experience with
electronics. He wants someone to gather the details and assemble the circuit
for a fee. If you can do that, send him a email and ask all the questions so
you know what is needed. I thought the 555 timer idea might work, but it
wasn't clear about the duty cycle, or changing conditions.
--- news://freenews.netfront.net/ - complaints: news@netfront.net ---
There are already products out there to handle this application.
Example:
http://www.powerstream.com/48V-backup.htm
They fall under "power supply battery charger."
M
Martin Brown
Guest
On 18/12/2014 20:33, Don Y wrote:
Although the benchmarks are typically not that far off a few like empty
for loops in the past have been gamed by clever compiler writers.
I guess it depends how much heavy CPU usage you do. Video transcoding is
about the most CPU intensive thing a home user is ever likely to do.
I generally aim to have a machine that is just behind the bleeding edge
and buy another whenever the speed up is more than 3x. This used to
translate to a new box every third year but lately they last about 5
before it is worth the hassle of an upgrade.
Work expands to fill the time or CPU cycles available!
Win7 unless you already have free Vista licences. Vista was always a bit
of a dog and although not as bad as some would have you believe it was
never really all that stable. Office 2007 was much worse but got a
comparatively easy ride because Vista was such an easy target.
Zork! You are in a maze of twisty little packages all alike...
Even for the esoteric low power devices there are several that have
essentially the same performance to within measurement error and
gratuitously different branding/part number.
High end Xeons intended for network boxes have clear architectural
differences but I get the feeling the consumer end is more like the
branding on flavours of cat food. I blame the marketing department.
Only a handful of the long list are really worth buying into.
(but if the kit is free gratis and for nothing from a corporate donor to
benefit a charity then you may as well take what you can get and
cannibalise the weakest boxes for spares)
I guess it depends how much CPU intensive stuff you need to do.
My current main box is a 3770K benchmarking at 9600 or so.
Its predecessor was a Q6600 at about 3000.
I wouldn't recommend anything slower than that today. YMMV
--
Regards,
Martin Brown
Hi Martin,
On 12/17/2014 2:58 AM, Martin Brown wrote:
On 17/12/2014 05:46, Don Y wrote:
A group for which I'd built a small "computer lab" dropped me
a note, today, indicating that they have a donor (business)
willing to supply them with "newer" (but still not "current")
machines (these are desktops).
Simple solution is check the figure of merit on CPU benchmarks.
It isn't perfect since some CPUs excel at eg video transcoding.
http://www.cpubenchmark.net/
Exactly. Benchmarks really only make sense if you are *doing*
exactly what is being benchmarked in exactly the same proportions!
Although the benchmarks are typically not that far off a few like empty
for loops in the past have been gamed by clever compiler writers.
Hyperthreading isn't an advantage unless the application is *very*
specific an
extremely easy to parallelise. Most real problems go memory bandwidth
limited
without using all the available CPU threads.
Anything with a figure of merit 3000+ will be OK for most basic uses
including
Yikes! This (email/WWW/etc.) machine is a Core2 Duo 1.86 -- about 1100
on your chart. I've not seen any issues with things like web browsing
(which, nowadays, is a piggish application). No office suite on this
machine (we don't use them) but I'd imagine it would also be speedy enough
for that.
I guess it depends how much heavy CPU usage you do. Video transcoding is
about the most CPU intensive thing a home user is ever likely to do.
I generally aim to have a machine that is just behind the bleeding edge
and buy another whenever the speed up is more than 3x. This used to
translate to a new box every third year but lately they last about 5
before it is worth the hassle of an upgrade.
[I always wonder how developers can burn so many BILLIONS of instruction
cycles doing so (apparently) little! :< ]
Work expands to fill the time or CPU cycles available!
small amounts of video editing - obviously the higher the better. I
prefer
Intel CPUs myself but that is only because of past experience with a
batch of
self immolating AMD ones.
I *think* their uses will be MSOffice, web browsing, et ilk. OTOH, I
imagine
viewing lots of (youtube) videos, Flash presentations (ahem
"advertisements"),
etc. They can also afford to lag behind "current" OS's (e.g., the next
machines will probably get Vista or W7).
Win7 unless you already have free Vista licences. Vista was always a bit
of a dog and although not as bad as some would have you believe it was
never really all that stable. Office 2007 was much worse but got a
comparatively easy ride because Vista was such an easy target.
I, OTOH, am curious as to the markets (applications) targeted by each of
these various flavors of CPU. Originally, it was easy to see *big*
differences in
product offerings (e.g., 386 being the first *practical* "big machine"
architecturally). With internal FPU? Without? 16b bus? etc.
Zork! You are in a maze of twisty little packages all alike...
Even for the esoteric low power devices there are several that have
essentially the same performance to within measurement error and
gratuitously different branding/part number.
High end Xeons intended for network boxes have clear architectural
differences but I get the feeling the consumer end is more like the
branding on flavours of cat food. I blame the marketing department.
Only a handful of the long list are really worth buying into.
(but if the kit is free gratis and for nothing from a corporate donor to
benefit a charity then you may as well take what you can get and
cannibalise the weakest boxes for spares)
But, I long ago gave up trying to sort out where the sweet spot lies.
As long
as my machines are faster than *me*, I'm happy. No idea how many
gazillions
of opcodes get executed waiting for me to type the next line of code or
decide
which two pins should be connected by a particular signal, etc. (and, I
don't
need to sit and stare at the screen while doing a "make world" or
autorouting
a PCB! There's always something else that can use my time...)
I guess it depends how much CPU intensive stuff you need to do.
My current main box is a 3770K benchmarking at 9600 or so.
Its predecessor was a Q6600 at about 3000.
I wouldn't recommend anything slower than that today. YMMV
--
Regards,
Martin Brown
J
John Larkin
Guest
On Thu, 18 Dec 2014 09:21:31 -0800 (PST),
bloggs.fredbloggs.fred@gmail.com wrote:
Mold is not generally a problem in San Francisco, and certainly not a
problem in Truckee, where the RH is generally below 30%. Wet towels
dry impressively fast up there, and you get really cold when you step
out of the shower.
--
John Larkin Highland Technology, Inc
picosecond timing precision measurement
jlarkin att highlandtechnology dott com
http://www.highlandtechnology.com
bloggs.fredbloggs.fred@gmail.com wrote:
On Thursday, December 18, 2014 12:12:44 PM UTC-5, John Larkin wrote:
On Thu, 18 Dec 2014 09:04:53 -0800 (PST),
bloggs.fredbloggs.fred@gmail.com wrote:
On Thursday, December 18, 2014 10:52:52 AM UTC-5, John Larkin wrote:
On Thu, 18 Dec 2014 06:43:30 -0800 (PST),
bloggs.fredbloggs.fred@gmail.com wrote:
On Wednesday, December 17, 2014 1:40:08 PM UTC-5, John Larkin wrote:
On Tue, 16 Dec 2014 16:52:52 -0800 (PST),
bloggs.fredbloggs.fred@gmail.com wrote:
On Tuesday, December 16, 2014 9:56:47 AM UTC-5, John Larkin wrote:
On Tue, 16 Dec 2014 04:43:43 -0800 (PST),
bloggs.fredbloggs.fred@gmail.com wrote:
On Monday, December 15, 2014 11:41:05 PM UTC-5, John Larkin wrote:
On Mon, 15 Dec 2014 19:04:03 -0800 (PST),
bloggs.fredbloggs.fred@gmail.com wrote:
On Monday, December 15, 2014 6:53:20 PM UTC-5, Jim Thompson wrote:
Mean to work inside that narrow a space.
Give me a break. Today I planted B&B clump amelanchier canadensis with ball dimensions of 24 x 24 x 18 inches of water saturated clay. At about 110 lbs per cubic foot (http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/dirt-mud-densities-d_1727.html), this thing came in at between 500 and 600 Lbs, there is a slight taper to the cut so it's not a full 6 Ft^3. I had to hoist it about 250 ft to the planting location with an appliance dolly, dig a level hole to relatively precise dimensions, wrestle it into the hole, level it, flood it with 20 gals water, berm it, mulch it, admire it- about a two hour job- dunno why it always takes me so long.
Relative fun. I spent about 9 hours last weekend trying to fix the
leak in the living room ceiling. I've been battling this one for 15
years, and have got damned good at sheetrock repair.
Do you have any idea what the peak rainfall rate was? I heard the total there was only about 1.5", but, if it all comes down at once, it causes problems. A flat roof is anything less than 3 in 12 rise to run, they're non-trivial and require more than just slapping down a membrane.
I doubt that it ever hit 1" per hour. But our house looks down into a
wind tunnel called The Alamany Gap, so we get bursts of fat drops
going 50 MPH horizontally. That drives water into every nook and
cranny; sort of like having standing water on the *side* of the house.
Most roofs here are flat, with no visible pitch. I can walk most of
the block on peoples' roofs. The deck is basically a flat roof, too.
Tar and gravel construction.
There's a flat, roofed deck just above, with a sliding glass door. A
couple years ago, I had the whole deck re-roofed and a new sliding
door assembly installed. It still leaked.
1. Why are all contractors such jerks?
2. Why are all consumer products, regardless of price, such crap?
The roofing material should have gone UNDER the door frame. It didn't.
Well, it's not the roofing material but the "flashing" that's the problem. Grace is the de facto leader in state of the art flashing products.
https://grace.com/construction/en-us/Documents/TP-073J-V40.pdf
(surprisingly HomeDepot actually carries it...)
...is one example of their conformable, self-adhering, and easily installed product. Sounds like you need to lap it 4-6" minimum.
Too late now! I'd have to remove the entire sliding door thingie to
get under it.
People don't do carpentry any more, they use construction adhesive.
Makes things hard to work on. Trim boards come off with a chisel, one
wood sliver at a time.
The door frame is a bunch of insanely complex plastic extrusions,
designed to trap water in every possible place.
Among other things, I seriously hacked the door frame with a Dremel to
make channels to let the water out. A lot came out.
That doesn't sound right...Sounds like the door frame is too low on the roof deck. Tell the whiz you want an internal open gutter installed along the entire length of wall of the door, you'll need some kind of perforated metal grate covering the part where you step out the door. ( and this gutter needs slope -duh)
The frame is about 3" up, so it's not getting drowned. The projectile
water is hitting the glass, filling the channal below, and then
getting into the complex plastic structure.
So many things that I buy need to be redesigned. Consumer products are
such crap.
(I thought you'd enjoy a good bitchy world-gone-to-hell rant.)
Get a less complicated door and install it with "pan flashing."
http://www.buildingscience.com/documents/information-sheets/pan-flashing-for-exterior-wall-openings
The door you have now either defeats the pan flashing or the pan flashing was not installed or both.
--
John Larkin Highland Technology, Inc
picosecond timing laser drivers and controllers
jlarkin att highlandtechnology dott com
http://www.highlandtechnology.com
I just ordered a 10m length USB borescope camera, $20 from Amazon.
Next time it rains, I'll drill a bunch of holes in the ceiling and
scope the top of the sheetrock, to see where the water is coming from.
Small holes are easy to patch.
The borescope should be handy for other things, like scoping pipes or
seeing what things have fallen into the crack behind my workbench.
The one I bought looks like a generic camera to Win XP, but needs
software installed for Win7. Why did Microsoft break the generic USB
camera interface?
--
John Larkin Highland Technology, Inc
picosecond timing precision measurement
jlarkin att highlandtechnology dott com
http://www.highlandtechnology.com
You can scope out all the mold growth and structural member rot too.
Ever cheerful, Freddy!
It's the 70-70-70 rule- lemme see, that means 70% RH, 70oF and 70% wood moisture content, or more, simultaneously, equals a fantastic mold growth. Enjoy, mold farmer.
We don't live in the tropics!
The problem is the enclosed (wet) spaces inside the structure easily meet these levels unless you have dry air circulating through it, Sherlock. Crawl spaces are another area that easily meets these requirements, usually from water vapor coming in from the ground (concrete is actually a sieve of microchannels).
Mold is not generally a problem in San Francisco, and certainly not a
problem in Truckee, where the RH is generally below 30%. Wet towels
dry impressively fast up there, and you get really cold when you step
out of the shower.
--
John Larkin Highland Technology, Inc
picosecond timing precision measurement
jlarkin att highlandtechnology dott com
http://www.highlandtechnology.com