J
John Larkin
Guest
On Tue, 16 Dec 2014 04:43:43 -0800 (PST),
bloggs.fredbloggs.fred@gmail.com wrote:
I doubt that it ever hit 1" per hour. But our house looks down into a
wind tunnel called The Alamany Gap, so we get bursts of fat drops
going 50 MPH horizontally. That drives water into every nook and
cranny; sort of like having standing water on the *side* of the house.
Most roofs here are flat, with no visible pitch. I can walk most of
the block on peoples' roofs. The deck is basically a flat roof, too.
Tar and gravel construction.
Too late now! I'd have to remove the entire sliding door thingie to
get under it.
The frame is about 3" up, so it's not getting drowned. The projectile
water is hitting the glass, filling the channal below, and then
getting into the complex plastic structure.
So many things that I buy need to be redesigned. Consumer products are
such crap.
(I thought you'd enjoy a good bitchy world-gone-to-hell rant.)
--
John Larkin Highland Technology, Inc
picosecond timing laser drivers and controllers
jlarkin att highlandtechnology dott com
http://www.highlandtechnology.com
bloggs.fredbloggs.fred@gmail.com wrote:
On Monday, December 15, 2014 11:41:05 PM UTC-5, John Larkin wrote:
On Mon, 15 Dec 2014 19:04:03 -0800 (PST),
bloggs.fredbloggs.fred@gmail.com wrote:
On Monday, December 15, 2014 6:53:20 PM UTC-5, Jim Thompson wrote:
Mean to work inside that narrow a space.
Give me a break. Today I planted B&B clump amelanchier canadensis with ball dimensions of 24 x 24 x 18 inches of water saturated clay. At about 110 lbs per cubic foot (http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/dirt-mud-densities-d_1727.html), this thing came in at between 500 and 600 Lbs, there is a slight taper to the cut so it's not a full 6 Ft^3. I had to hoist it about 250 ft to the planting location with an appliance dolly, dig a level hole to relatively precise dimensions, wrestle it into the hole, level it, flood it with 20 gals water, berm it, mulch it, admire it- about a two hour job- dunno why it always takes me so long.
Relative fun. I spent about 9 hours last weekend trying to fix the
leak in the living room ceiling. I've been battling this one for 15
years, and have got damned good at sheetrock repair.
Do you have any idea what the peak rainfall rate was? I heard the total there was only about 1.5", but, if it all comes down at once, it causes problems. A flat roof is anything less than 3 in 12 rise to run, they're non-trivial and require more than just slapping down a membrane.
I doubt that it ever hit 1" per hour. But our house looks down into a
wind tunnel called The Alamany Gap, so we get bursts of fat drops
going 50 MPH horizontally. That drives water into every nook and
cranny; sort of like having standing water on the *side* of the house.
Most roofs here are flat, with no visible pitch. I can walk most of
the block on peoples' roofs. The deck is basically a flat roof, too.
Tar and gravel construction.
There's a flat, roofed deck just above, with a sliding glass door. A
couple years ago, I had the whole deck re-roofed and a new sliding
door assembly installed. It still leaked.
1. Why are all contractors such jerks?
2. Why are all consumer products, regardless of price, such crap?
The roofing material should have gone UNDER the door frame. It didn't.
Well, it's not the roofing material but the "flashing" that's the problem. Grace is the de facto leader in state of the art flashing products.
https://grace.com/construction/en-us/Documents/TP-073J-V40.pdf
(surprisingly HomeDepot actually carries it...)
...is one example of their conformable, self-adhering, and easily installed product. Sounds like you need to lap it 4-6" minimum.
Too late now! I'd have to remove the entire sliding door thingie to
get under it.
People don't do carpentry any more, they use construction adhesive.
Makes things hard to work on. Trim boards come off with a chisel, one
wood sliver at a time.
The door frame is a bunch of insanely complex plastic extrusions,
designed to trap water in every possible place.
Among other things, I seriously hacked the door frame with a Dremel to
make channels to let the water out. A lot came out.
That doesn't sound right...Sounds like the door frame is too low on the roof deck. Tell the whiz you want an internal open gutter installed along the entire length of wall of the door, you'll need some kind of perforated metal grate covering the part where you step out the door. ( and this gutter needs slope -duh)
The frame is about 3" up, so it's not getting drowned. The projectile
water is hitting the glass, filling the channal below, and then
getting into the complex plastic structure.
So many things that I buy need to be redesigned. Consumer products are
such crap.
(I thought you'd enjoy a good bitchy world-gone-to-hell rant.)
--
John Larkin Highland Technology, Inc
picosecond timing laser drivers and controllers
jlarkin att highlandtechnology dott com
http://www.highlandtechnology.com