Driver to drive?

[DecadentLinuxUserNumeroUn]

On Thu, 18 Dec 2014 09:06:32 -0800 (PST),
bloggs.fredbloggs.fred@gmail.com Gave us:

On Thursday, December 18, 2014 11:23:14 AM UTC-5, DecadentLinuxUserNumeroUno wrote:
snip lowbrow trash

What are you on these days, Grise?

If you're still breathing, you're not taking enough, lightweight.

"Grise" is someone else, you absolutely RETARDED fuck!

This is one of your most retarded behaviors, and you do it ALL THE
TIME.

You take stupid senile fucktard to an all new low. You sit firmly at
the bottom of the s.e.d. stupid fucktard totem pole, Bloggs.


And the real question has always been (use a "predator" voice
inflection)... WHAT THE FUCK ARE YOU ON?

 

[DecadentLinuxUserNumeroUn]

On Thu, 18 Dec 2014 09:21:31 -0800 (PST),
bloggs.fredbloggs.fred@gmail.com Gave us:

> Sherlock.

Bloogstard.

 

[Don Y]

Hi Martin,

On 12/18/2014 1:57 PM, Martin Brown wrote:

On 18/12/2014 20:33, Don Y wrote:

Hyperthreading isn't an advantage unless the application is *very*
specific an
extremely easy to parallelise. Most real problems go memory bandwidth
limited
without using all the available CPU threads.

Anything with a figure of merit 3000+ will be OK for most basic uses
including

Yikes! This (email/WWW/etc.) machine is a Core2 Duo 1.86 -- about 1100
on your chart. I've not seen any issues with things like web browsing
(which, nowadays, is a piggish application). No office suite on this
machine (we don't use them) but I'd imagine it would also be speedy enough
for that.

I guess it depends how much heavy CPU usage you do. Video transcoding is about
the most CPU intensive thing a home user is ever likely to do.

I write code, draw schematics, design FPGAs, layout boards and prepare
documentation. Most of the "time" gets spent in my wetware -- I can
do other things (e.g., make a cup of tea, eat dinner, bathroom break,
sleep, etc.) if a machine has to do any significant crunching.

A (BSD) kernel build takes a few minutes. Rebuilding my RTOS may take a
bit longer -- but still not going to eat up significant portions of my
workday (unless I just sit and stare at the screen). Even the multimedia
stuff spends far more time authoring the presentations than it takes to
render them!

Different work habits carried over from the days where you were developing
on a 1 MB/s machine (not VAX-MIPS).

I generally aim to have a machine that is just behind the bleeding edge and buy
another whenever the speed up is more than 3x. This used to translate to a new
box every third year but lately they last about 5 before it is worth the hassle
of an upgrade.

Upgrade is a LOT of effort, for me. Too much software to install, reconfigure,
etc. (at least on Windows crates). Sort of like moving to a new house (do I
really need to keep this? does it need to be readily accessible? or, just
tucked away in a corner and I'll sort it out when/if I need it?)

[I always wonder how developers can burn so many BILLIONS of instruction
cycles doing so (apparently) little! :< ]

Work expands to fill the time or CPU cycles available!

And desk/disk space! :<

small amounts of video editing - obviously the higher the better. I
prefer
Intel CPUs myself but that is only because of past experience with a
batch of
self immolating AMD ones.

I *think* their uses will be MSOffice, web browsing, et ilk. OTOH, I
imagine
viewing lots of (youtube) videos, Flash presentations (ahem
"advertisements"),
etc. They can also afford to lag behind "current" OS's (e.g., the next
machines will probably get Vista or W7).

Win7 unless you already have free Vista licences. Vista was always a bit of a
dog and although not as bad as some would have you believe it was never really
all that stable. Office 2007 was much worse but got a comparatively easy ride
because Vista was such an easy target.

Dunno. One gotcha is always availability of drivers, etc. *They* chose
(from among a set of different offerings) the last set of machines (that
I later installed/configured).

I, OTOH, am curious as to the markets (applications) targeted by each of
these various flavors of CPU. Originally, it was easy to see *big*
differences in
product offerings (e.g., 386 being the first *practical* "big machine"
architecturally). With internal FPU? Without? 16b bus? etc.

Zork! You are in a maze of twisty little packages all alike...

Even for the esoteric low power devices there are several that have essentially
the same performance to within measurement error and gratuitously different
branding/part number.

Yeah, sounds like "stereos" in the 70's... bedazzle (befuddle) the consumer
with an excess of choices.

High end Xeons intended for network boxes have clear architectural differences
but I get the feeling the consumer end is more like the branding on flavours of
cat food. I blame the marketing department.

Only a handful of the long list are really worth buying into.

(but if the kit is free gratis and for nothing from a corporate donor to
benefit a charity then you may as well take what you can get and cannibalise
the weakest boxes for spares)

<frown> I tried doing that -- setting aside spare monitors, optical drives,
etc. A few weeks later, they were all gone: "Oh, we got rid of them because
we needed the closet space for stationery goods..."

I'm not keen on warehousing stuff *here*! And, the donors obviously want
the stuff out of *their* facilities...

But, I long ago gave up trying to sort out where the sweet spot lies.
As long
as my machines are faster than *me*, I'm happy. No idea how many
gazillions
of opcodes get executed waiting for me to type the next line of code or
decide
which two pins should be connected by a particular signal, etc. (and, I
don't
need to sit and stare at the screen while doing a "make world" or
autorouting
a PCB! There's always something else that can use my time...)

I guess it depends how much CPU intensive stuff you need to do.
My current main box is a 3770K benchmarking at 9600 or so.
Its predecessor was a Q6600 at about 3000.

I wouldn't recommend anything slower than that today. YMMV

As I said, most of what I do is wetware limited. What isn't, I can
address by "multitasking" so I'm not waiting on kit.

In the mid 80's, I was doing 3D CAD renderings on 386's. Roughly
25 hours per render (AutoCAD ran under a DOS extender back then
so a machine essentially did *one* thing at a time). I would
just turn off the monitor and put a sign on it "do not turn off"
(and pray there wasn't a power outage). Then, slide my chair
over to the next machine and start work on the next part of the
model, etc.

In my present setup, I can move between 6 machines just by
swiveling a chair (though the machines/apps aren't interchangeable).
And, there's *always* a backlog on the ToDo list so it's not like
I'm going to be twiddling my thumbs! :-/

 

On Thursday, December 18, 2014 9:19:55 PM UTC-5, John Larkin wrote:

On Thu, 18 Dec 2014 17:00:49 -0800 (PST),
bloggs.fredbloggs.fred@gmail.com wrote:

On Thursday, December 18, 2014 3:58:53 PM UTC-5, John Larkin wrote:
On Thu, 18 Dec 2014 09:21:31 -0800 (PST),
bloggs.fredbloggs.fred@gmail.com wrote:

On Thursday, December 18, 2014 12:12:44 PM UTC-5, John Larkin wrote:
On Thu, 18 Dec 2014 09:04:53 -0800 (PST),
bloggs.fredbloggs.fred@gmail.com wrote:

On Thursday, December 18, 2014 10:52:52 AM UTC-5, John Larkin wrote:
On Thu, 18 Dec 2014 06:43:30 -0800 (PST),
bloggs.fredbloggs.fred@gmail.com wrote:

On Wednesday, December 17, 2014 1:40:08 PM UTC-5, John Larkin wrote:
On Tue, 16 Dec 2014 16:52:52 -0800 (PST),
bloggs.fredbloggs.fred@gmail.com wrote:

On Tuesday, December 16, 2014 9:56:47 AM UTC-5, John Larkin wrote:
On Tue, 16 Dec 2014 04:43:43 -0800 (PST),
bloggs.fredbloggs.fred@gmail.com wrote:

On Monday, December 15, 2014 11:41:05 PM UTC-5, John Larkin wrote:
On Mon, 15 Dec 2014 19:04:03 -0800 (PST),
bloggs.fredbloggs.fred@gmail.com wrote:

On Monday, December 15, 2014 6:53:20 PM UTC-5, Jim Thompson wrote:


Mean to work inside that narrow a space.

Give me a break. Today I planted B&B clump amelanchier canadensis with ball dimensions of 24 x 24 x 18 inches of water saturated clay. At about 110 lbs per cubic foot (http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/dirt-mud-densities-d_1727.html), this thing came in at between 500 and 600 Lbs, there is a slight taper to the cut so it's not a full 6 Ft^3. I had to hoist it about 250 ft to the planting location with an appliance dolly, dig a level hole to relatively precise dimensions, wrestle it into the hole, level it, flood it with 20 gals water, berm it, mulch it, admire it- about a two hour job- dunno why it always takes me so long.

Relative fun. I spent about 9 hours last weekend trying to fix the
leak in the living room ceiling. I've been battling this one for 15
years, and have got damned good at sheetrock repair.

Do you have any idea what the peak rainfall rate was? I heard the total there was only about 1.5", but, if it all comes down at once, it causes problems. A flat roof is anything less than 3 in 12 rise to run, they're non-trivial and require more than just slapping down a membrane.

I doubt that it ever hit 1" per hour. But our house looks down into a
wind tunnel called The Alamany Gap, so we get bursts of fat drops
going 50 MPH horizontally. That drives water into every nook and
cranny; sort of like having standing water on the *side* of the house.

Most roofs here are flat, with no visible pitch. I can walk most of
the block on peoples' roofs. The deck is basically a flat roof, too.
Tar and gravel construction.






There's a flat, roofed deck just above, with a sliding glass door. A
couple years ago, I had the whole deck re-roofed and a new sliding
door assembly installed. It still leaked.

1. Why are all contractors such jerks?

2. Why are all consumer products, regardless of price, such crap?

The roofing material should have gone UNDER the door frame. It didn't.

Well, it's not the roofing material but the "flashing" that's the problem. Grace is the de facto leader in state of the art flashing products.

https://grace.com/construction/en-us/Documents/TP-073J-V40.pdf

(surprisingly HomeDepot actually carries it...)

...is one example of their conformable, self-adhering, and easily installed product. Sounds like you need to lap it 4-6" minimum.


Too late now! I'd have to remove the entire sliding door thingie to
get under it.



People don't do carpentry any more, they use construction adhesive.
Makes things hard to work on. Trim boards come off with a chisel, one
wood sliver at a time.

The door frame is a bunch of insanely complex plastic extrusions,
designed to trap water in every possible place.

Among other things, I seriously hacked the door frame with a Dremel to
make channels to let the water out. A lot came out.

That doesn't sound right...Sounds like the door frame is too low on the roof deck. Tell the whiz you want an internal open gutter installed along the entire length of wall of the door, you'll need some kind of perforated metal grate covering the part where you step out the door. ( and this gutter needs slope -duh)

The frame is about 3" up, so it's not getting drowned. The projectile
water is hitting the glass, filling the channal below, and then
getting into the complex plastic structure.

So many things that I buy need to be redesigned. Consumer products are
such crap.

(I thought you'd enjoy a good bitchy world-gone-to-hell rant.)

Get a less complicated door and install it with "pan flashing."

http://www.buildingscience.com/documents/information-sheets/pan-flashing-for-exterior-wall-openings

The door you have now either defeats the pan flashing or the pan flashing was not installed or both.




--

John Larkin Highland Technology, Inc
picosecond timing laser drivers and controllers

jlarkin att highlandtechnology dott com
http://www.highlandtechnology.com


I just ordered a 10m length USB borescope camera, $20 from Amazon.
Next time it rains, I'll drill a bunch of holes in the ceiling and
scope the top of the sheetrock, to see where the water is coming from.
Small holes are easy to patch.

The borescope should be handy for other things, like scoping pipes or
seeing what things have fallen into the crack behind my workbench.

The one I bought looks like a generic camera to Win XP, but needs
software installed for Win7. Why did Microsoft break the generic USB
camera interface?



--

John Larkin Highland Technology, Inc
picosecond timing precision measurement

jlarkin att highlandtechnology dott com
http://www.highlandtechnology.com

You can scope out all the mold growth and structural member rot too.

Ever cheerful, Freddy!

It's the 70-70-70 rule- lemme see, that means 70% RH, 70oF and 70% wood moisture content, or more, simultaneously, equals a fantastic mold growth. Enjoy, mold farmer.


We don't live in the tropics!

The problem is the enclosed (wet) spaces inside the structure easily meet these levels unless you have dry air circulating through it, Sherlock. Crawl spaces are another area that easily meets these requirements, usually from water vapor coming in from the ground (concrete is actually a sieve of microchannels).


Mold is not generally a problem in San Francisco, and certainly not a
problem in Truckee, where the RH is generally below 30%. Wet towels
dry impressively fast up there, and you get really cold when you step
out of the shower.

SFDPH thinks it is a problem there.

https://www.sfdph.org/dph/files/EHSdocs/ehsPublsdocs/Mold.pdf

The only mold that I ever see is on the sidewalk in front of our
house. That's the north side, mostly shade, and it gets a little
greenish in the winter if we have a lot of rain. I'm only really
concerned about it being slippery, so I power wash it, maybe once or
twice a year.


--

John Larkin Highland Technology, Inc
picosecond timing precision measurement

jlarkin att highlandtechnology dott com
http://www.highlandtechnology.com

There are space age wood products that kill mold, bacteria and even termites and other pests, but I don't think they're in older homes. So either you're exaggerating the leak or wood does not rot in SF.

 

On Thursday, December 18, 2014 4:18:27 PM UTC-5, DecadentLinuxUserNumeroUno wrote:
<snip idiocy>

You're Grise and everyone knows it. Now up the dose so you come completely unglued, you're not quite there yet.

 

[Toyin]

On Thursday, December 18, 2014 7:55:55 PM UTC-5, Bill Bowden wrote:

"Martin Brown" <|||newspam|||@nezumi.demon.co.uk> wrote in message
news:q6xkw.458132$CW3.158177@fx07.am4...
On 18/12/2014 01:59, Toyin wrote:
On Wednesday, December 17, 2014 2:20:13 AM UTC-5, mike wrote:
On 12/16/2014 7:57 PM, Toyin wrote:
On Monday, December 15, 2014 11:56:00 PM UTC-5, Toyin wrote:

I need a consultant to help me with my project for a fee. I would like
to use a 555 timer circuit to generate a variable 1 to 5 minute timer
to alternate between 2 bank of batteries that are connected to a
charger and a load. There are four switches where two are on when the
other two are off. Please send me a private email to <olutoyin at
yahoo dot com> if you are interested and can help. Thanks!

I just want to thank everyone for your invaluable input. Since this is
way over my head, I still need help and would contact some of the folks
who had replied and shared their contact information. Thanks again, I
do appreciate the suggestions.

-Toyin

Since nobody else acknowledged the elephant in the room, I'll take a
stab.
Your objective isn't clearly stated...
If you're charging one battery while loading the other,
What happens at the switchover?
Break before make glitches the power off.
Make before break risks breaking something with high
current between the batteries.

It's likely that you'll have issues well beyond timing.
The microprocessor solution gives you the opportunity
to address them. And having A/D converters available lets
you monitor everything and possibly decide that time is
not the optimum switching criterion. Also lets you
log performance and shove data out a LED that that
you can read with a phone/PDA.

You're likely to be disappointed with any rational
approach to a 5-minute analog delay.

I'd back up a level in the system design and approach
the whole range of issues.

I'm curious to know exactly what problem the switchover
solves???

Hi Mike:
I wanted to power loads without the loads seeing the battery. So, the
batteries will be connected to a charger as well as a super capacitor of
equal voltage. So, the switch is to allow one battery to work while the
other is on charge. I've been told this is not possible but I know
wherever there's a will, there's always a way. Thanks for your insight.
I truly appreciate it.

I think you need to explain what it is that you are trying to do before it
is possible to offer any sensible advice. You don't appear to have grasped
even the basic concepts of how electrical circuits work!

The super capacitor is performing the same function as a battery only
doing it very badly with a voltage output that falls away exponentially
with time under load. I can't imagine why you would want to do that.

OK there are a few specialist things like charging up a huge bank of EHT
capacitors very slowly and then letting rip discharging in a few us.

--
Regards,
Martin Brown

I think he wants to use 2 sets of 48 volt batteries to supply 250 watts at
120VAC through an inverter while at the same time charging the second set of
batteries from renewable sources such as solar and wind. He needs a system
to manage that operation and also a regulator to prevent overcharge. He has
implemented the system using manual switches but has limited experience with
electronics. He wants someone to gather the details and assemble the circuit
for a fee. If you can do that, send him a email and ask all the questions so
you know what is needed. I thought the 555 timer idea might work, but it
wasn't clear about the duty cycle, or changing conditions.



--- news://freenews.netfront.net/ - complaints: news@netfront.net ---

Thanks for the clarification, Bill. One other explanation is that I'm using a capacitive charger that is almost 100 percent efficient.

 

[Maynard A. Philbrook Jr.]

In article <037e2d37-70c4-40eb-a1dd-f37161710b0f@googlegroups.com>,
bill.sloman@gmail.com says...

On Thursday, 18 December 2014 14:40:02 UTC+11, Phil Allison wrote:
mike wrote:

My point, based on 40 years of watching very smart engineers
bang their heads against the wall trying to use devices unsuited for the
job,
is that reexamining the system architecture is likely to be more
fruitful than trying to design around all the subtle gotchas
required to get a reliable 5-minutes out of a 555.

** Back in 1977, I made myself a darkroom timer for B&W printing from negatives in an enlarger. It was based on a NE555 monostable.

A rotary switch selected resistors wired in 1:1.4 sequence, equating to stops on a camera. Another switch multiplied time settings by 10. The range was from 1 second to 450 seconds. 4x15uF tantalums provided the delay and the x10 times switch operated by pulling the voltage on pin 5 up and down for long and short delays respectively.

The OP could use switched resistors with a maximum of say 5Mohms for time setting and a 20uF worth of film cap for delay. Then pull pin 5 towards the supply with a trim pot and resistor in series of about 1kohms each to get exactly 300 seconds - which also calibrates the unit.

5% accuracy and repeatability should be easily had.

Not all that adventurous for 1977. CMOS had become relatively cheap by

then, so a CD4060 and a 32768 Hz watch crystal could have given you a
much more accurate time base. The nice thing about CMOS was that it
offered quite wide counters in a single cheap package - 12-bits in the
CD4040, and two decimal decades in the MC1458.

You know Bill, the last I time I checked and have known for years a
MC1458 is a dual op-amp...

Did we slip with the data collection, again ?

Jamie

 

[Bill Bowden]

"Martin Brown" <|||newspam|||@nezumi.demon.co.uk> wrote in message
news:q6xkw.458132$CW3.158177@fx07.am4...

On 18/12/2014 01:59, Toyin wrote:
On Wednesday, December 17, 2014 2:20:13 AM UTC-5, mike wrote:
On 12/16/2014 7:57 PM, Toyin wrote:
On Monday, December 15, 2014 11:56:00 PM UTC-5, Toyin wrote:

I need a consultant to help me with my project for a fee. I would like
to use a 555 timer circuit to generate a variable 1 to 5 minute timer
to alternate between 2 bank of batteries that are connected to a
charger and a load. There are four switches where two are on when the
other two are off. Please send me a private email to <olutoyin at
yahoo dot com> if you are interested and can help. Thanks!

I just want to thank everyone for your invaluable input. Since this is
way over my head, I still need help and would contact some of the folks
who had replied and shared their contact information. Thanks again, I
do appreciate the suggestions.

-Toyin

Since nobody else acknowledged the elephant in the room, I'll take a
stab.
Your objective isn't clearly stated...
If you're charging one battery while loading the other,
What happens at the switchover?
Break before make glitches the power off.
Make before break risks breaking something with high
current between the batteries.

It's likely that you'll have issues well beyond timing.
The microprocessor solution gives you the opportunity
to address them. And having A/D converters available lets
you monitor everything and possibly decide that time is
not the optimum switching criterion. Also lets you
log performance and shove data out a LED that that
you can read with a phone/PDA.

You're likely to be disappointed with any rational
approach to a 5-minute analog delay.

I'd back up a level in the system design and approach
the whole range of issues.

I'm curious to know exactly what problem the switchover
solves???

Hi Mike:
I wanted to power loads without the loads seeing the battery. So, the
batteries will be connected to a charger as well as a super capacitor of
equal voltage. So, the switch is to allow one battery to work while the
other is on charge. I've been told this is not possible but I know
wherever there's a will, there's always a way. Thanks for your insight.
I truly appreciate it.

I think you need to explain what it is that you are trying to do before it
is possible to offer any sensible advice. You don't appear to have grasped
even the basic concepts of how electrical circuits work!

The super capacitor is performing the same function as a battery only
doing it very badly with a voltage output that falls away exponentially
with time under load. I can't imagine why you would want to do that.

OK there are a few specialist things like charging up a huge bank of EHT
capacitors very slowly and then letting rip discharging in a few us.

--
Regards,
Martin Brown

I think he wants to use 2 sets of 48 volt batteries to supply 250 watts at
120VAC through an inverter while at the same time charging the second set of
batteries from renewable sources such as solar and wind. He needs a system
to manage that operation and also a regulator to prevent overcharge. He has
implemented the system using manual switches but has limited experience with
electronics. He wants someone to gather the details and assemble the circuit
for a fee. If you can do that, send him a email and ask all the questions so
you know what is needed. I thought the 555 timer idea might work, but it
wasn't clear about the duty cycle, or changing conditions.



--- news://freenews.netfront.net/ - complaints: news@netfront.net ---

 

[John Larkin]

On Thu, 18 Dec 2014 17:00:49 -0800 (PST),
bloggs.fredbloggs.fred@gmail.com wrote:

On Thursday, December 18, 2014 3:58:53 PM UTC-5, John Larkin wrote:
On Thu, 18 Dec 2014 09:21:31 -0800 (PST),
bloggs.fredbloggs.fred@gmail.com wrote:

On Thursday, December 18, 2014 12:12:44 PM UTC-5, John Larkin wrote:
On Thu, 18 Dec 2014 09:04:53 -0800 (PST),
bloggs.fredbloggs.fred@gmail.com wrote:

On Thursday, December 18, 2014 10:52:52 AM UTC-5, John Larkin wrote:
On Thu, 18 Dec 2014 06:43:30 -0800 (PST),
bloggs.fredbloggs.fred@gmail.com wrote:

On Wednesday, December 17, 2014 1:40:08 PM UTC-5, John Larkin wrote:
On Tue, 16 Dec 2014 16:52:52 -0800 (PST),
bloggs.fredbloggs.fred@gmail.com wrote:

On Tuesday, December 16, 2014 9:56:47 AM UTC-5, John Larkin wrote:
On Tue, 16 Dec 2014 04:43:43 -0800 (PST),
bloggs.fredbloggs.fred@gmail.com wrote:

On Monday, December 15, 2014 11:41:05 PM UTC-5, John Larkin wrote:
On Mon, 15 Dec 2014 19:04:03 -0800 (PST),
bloggs.fredbloggs.fred@gmail.com wrote:

On Monday, December 15, 2014 6:53:20 PM UTC-5, Jim Thompson wrote:


Mean to work inside that narrow a space.

Give me a break. Today I planted B&B clump amelanchier canadensis with ball dimensions of 24 x 24 x 18 inches of water saturated clay. At about 110 lbs per cubic foot (http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/dirt-mud-densities-d_1727.html), this thing came in at between 500 and 600 Lbs, there is a slight taper to the cut so it's not a full 6 Ft^3. I had to hoist it about 250 ft to the planting location with an appliance dolly, dig a level hole to relatively precise dimensions, wrestle it into the hole, level it, flood it with 20 gals water, berm it, mulch it, admire it- about a two hour job- dunno why it always takes me so long.

Relative fun. I spent about 9 hours last weekend trying to fix the
leak in the living room ceiling. I've been battling this one for 15
years, and have got damned good at sheetrock repair.

Do you have any idea what the peak rainfall rate was? I heard the total there was only about 1.5", but, if it all comes down at once, it causes problems. A flat roof is anything less than 3 in 12 rise to run, they're non-trivial and require more than just slapping down a membrane.

I doubt that it ever hit 1" per hour. But our house looks down into a
wind tunnel called The Alamany Gap, so we get bursts of fat drops
going 50 MPH horizontally. That drives water into every nook and
cranny; sort of like having standing water on the *side* of the house.

Most roofs here are flat, with no visible pitch. I can walk most of
the block on peoples' roofs. The deck is basically a flat roof, too.
Tar and gravel construction.






There's a flat, roofed deck just above, with a sliding glass door. A
couple years ago, I had the whole deck re-roofed and a new sliding
door assembly installed. It still leaked.

1. Why are all contractors such jerks?

2. Why are all consumer products, regardless of price, such crap?

The roofing material should have gone UNDER the door frame. It didn't.

Well, it's not the roofing material but the "flashing" that's the problem. Grace is the de facto leader in state of the art flashing products.

https://grace.com/construction/en-us/Documents/TP-073J-V40.pdf

(surprisingly HomeDepot actually carries it...)

...is one example of their conformable, self-adhering, and easily installed product. Sounds like you need to lap it 4-6" minimum.


Too late now! I'd have to remove the entire sliding door thingie to
get under it.



People don't do carpentry any more, they use construction adhesive.
Makes things hard to work on. Trim boards come off with a chisel, one
wood sliver at a time.

The door frame is a bunch of insanely complex plastic extrusions,
designed to trap water in every possible place.

Among other things, I seriously hacked the door frame with a Dremel to
make channels to let the water out. A lot came out.

That doesn't sound right...Sounds like the door frame is too low on the roof deck. Tell the whiz you want an internal open gutter installed along the entire length of wall of the door, you'll need some kind of perforated metal grate covering the part where you step out the door. ( and this gutter needs slope -duh)

The frame is about 3" up, so it's not getting drowned. The projectile
water is hitting the glass, filling the channal below, and then
getting into the complex plastic structure.

So many things that I buy need to be redesigned. Consumer products are
such crap.

(I thought you'd enjoy a good bitchy world-gone-to-hell rant.)

Get a less complicated door and install it with "pan flashing."

http://www.buildingscience.com/documents/information-sheets/pan-flashing-for-exterior-wall-openings

The door you have now either defeats the pan flashing or the pan flashing was not installed or both.




--

John Larkin Highland Technology, Inc
picosecond timing laser drivers and controllers

jlarkin att highlandtechnology dott com
http://www.highlandtechnology.com


I just ordered a 10m length USB borescope camera, $20 from Amazon.
Next time it rains, I'll drill a bunch of holes in the ceiling and
scope the top of the sheetrock, to see where the water is coming from.
Small holes are easy to patch.

The borescope should be handy for other things, like scoping pipes or
seeing what things have fallen into the crack behind my workbench.

The one I bought looks like a generic camera to Win XP, but needs
software installed for Win7. Why did Microsoft break the generic USB
camera interface?



--

John Larkin Highland Technology, Inc
picosecond timing precision measurement

jlarkin att highlandtechnology dott com
http://www.highlandtechnology.com

You can scope out all the mold growth and structural member rot too.

Ever cheerful, Freddy!

It's the 70-70-70 rule- lemme see, that means 70% RH, 70oF and 70% wood moisture content, or more, simultaneously, equals a fantastic mold growth. Enjoy, mold farmer.


We don't live in the tropics!

The problem is the enclosed (wet) spaces inside the structure easily meet these levels unless you have dry air circulating through it, Sherlock. Crawl spaces are another area that easily meets these requirements, usually from water vapor coming in from the ground (concrete is actually a sieve of microchannels).


Mold is not generally a problem in San Francisco, and certainly not a
problem in Truckee, where the RH is generally below 30%. Wet towels
dry impressively fast up there, and you get really cold when you step
out of the shower.

SFDPH thinks it is a problem there.

https://www.sfdph.org/dph/files/EHSdocs/ehsPublsdocs/Mold.pdf

The only mold that I ever see is on the sidewalk in front of our
house. That's the north side, mostly shade, and it gets a little
greenish in the winter if we have a lot of rain. I'm only really
concerned about it being slippery, so I power wash it, maybe once or
twice a year.


--

John Larkin Highland Technology, Inc
picosecond timing precision measurement

jlarkin att highlandtechnology dott com
http://www.highlandtechnology.com

 

[John Larkin]

On Thu, 18 Dec 2014 18:43:23 -0800 (PST),
bloggs.fredbloggs.fred@gmail.com wrote:

On Thursday, December 18, 2014 9:19:55 PM UTC-5, John Larkin wrote:
On Thu, 18 Dec 2014 17:00:49 -0800 (PST),
bloggs.fredbloggs.fred@gmail.com wrote:

On Thursday, December 18, 2014 3:58:53 PM UTC-5, John Larkin wrote:
On Thu, 18 Dec 2014 09:21:31 -0800 (PST),
bloggs.fredbloggs.fred@gmail.com wrote:

On Thursday, December 18, 2014 12:12:44 PM UTC-5, John Larkin wrote:
On Thu, 18 Dec 2014 09:04:53 -0800 (PST),
bloggs.fredbloggs.fred@gmail.com wrote:

On Thursday, December 18, 2014 10:52:52 AM UTC-5, John Larkin wrote:
On Thu, 18 Dec 2014 06:43:30 -0800 (PST),
bloggs.fredbloggs.fred@gmail.com wrote:

On Wednesday, December 17, 2014 1:40:08 PM UTC-5, John Larkin wrote:
On Tue, 16 Dec 2014 16:52:52 -0800 (PST),
bloggs.fredbloggs.fred@gmail.com wrote:

On Tuesday, December 16, 2014 9:56:47 AM UTC-5, John Larkin wrote:
On Tue, 16 Dec 2014 04:43:43 -0800 (PST),
bloggs.fredbloggs.fred@gmail.com wrote:

On Monday, December 15, 2014 11:41:05 PM UTC-5, John Larkin wrote:
On Mon, 15 Dec 2014 19:04:03 -0800 (PST),
bloggs.fredbloggs.fred@gmail.com wrote:

On Monday, December 15, 2014 6:53:20 PM UTC-5, Jim Thompson wrote:


Mean to work inside that narrow a space.

Give me a break. Today I planted B&B clump amelanchier canadensis with ball dimensions of 24 x 24 x 18 inches of water saturated clay. At about 110 lbs per cubic foot (http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/dirt-mud-densities-d_1727.html), this thing came in at between 500 and 600 Lbs, there is a slight taper to the cut so it's not a full 6 Ft^3. I had to hoist it about 250 ft to the planting location with an appliance dolly, dig a level hole to relatively precise dimensions, wrestle it into the hole, level it, flood it with 20 gals water, berm it, mulch it, admire it- about a two hour job- dunno why it always takes me so long.

Relative fun. I spent about 9 hours last weekend trying to fix the
leak in the living room ceiling. I've been battling this one for 15
years, and have got damned good at sheetrock repair.

Do you have any idea what the peak rainfall rate was? I heard the total there was only about 1.5", but, if it all comes down at once, it causes problems. A flat roof is anything less than 3 in 12 rise to run, they're non-trivial and require more than just slapping down a membrane.

I doubt that it ever hit 1" per hour. But our house looks down into a
wind tunnel called The Alamany Gap, so we get bursts of fat drops
going 50 MPH horizontally. That drives water into every nook and
cranny; sort of like having standing water on the *side* of the house.

Most roofs here are flat, with no visible pitch. I can walk most of
the block on peoples' roofs. The deck is basically a flat roof, too.
Tar and gravel construction.






There's a flat, roofed deck just above, with a sliding glass door. A
couple years ago, I had the whole deck re-roofed and a new sliding
door assembly installed. It still leaked.

1. Why are all contractors such jerks?

2. Why are all consumer products, regardless of price, such crap?

The roofing material should have gone UNDER the door frame. It didn't.

Well, it's not the roofing material but the "flashing" that's the problem. Grace is the de facto leader in state of the art flashing products.

https://grace.com/construction/en-us/Documents/TP-073J-V40.pdf

(surprisingly HomeDepot actually carries it...)

...is one example of their conformable, self-adhering, and easily installed product. Sounds like you need to lap it 4-6" minimum.


Too late now! I'd have to remove the entire sliding door thingie to
get under it.



People don't do carpentry any more, they use construction adhesive.
Makes things hard to work on. Trim boards come off with a chisel, one
wood sliver at a time.

The door frame is a bunch of insanely complex plastic extrusions,
designed to trap water in every possible place.

Among other things, I seriously hacked the door frame with a Dremel to
make channels to let the water out. A lot came out.

That doesn't sound right...Sounds like the door frame is too low on the roof deck. Tell the whiz you want an internal open gutter installed along the entire length of wall of the door, you'll need some kind of perforated metal grate covering the part where you step out the door. ( and this gutter needs slope -duh)

The frame is about 3" up, so it's not getting drowned. The projectile
water is hitting the glass, filling the channal below, and then
getting into the complex plastic structure.

So many things that I buy need to be redesigned. Consumer products are
such crap.

(I thought you'd enjoy a good bitchy world-gone-to-hell rant.)

Get a less complicated door and install it with "pan flashing."

http://www.buildingscience.com/documents/information-sheets/pan-flashing-for-exterior-wall-openings

The door you have now either defeats the pan flashing or the pan flashing was not installed or both.




--

John Larkin Highland Technology, Inc
picosecond timing laser drivers and controllers

jlarkin att highlandtechnology dott com
http://www.highlandtechnology.com


I just ordered a 10m length USB borescope camera, $20 from Amazon.
Next time it rains, I'll drill a bunch of holes in the ceiling and
scope the top of the sheetrock, to see where the water is coming from.
Small holes are easy to patch.

The borescope should be handy for other things, like scoping pipes or
seeing what things have fallen into the crack behind my workbench.

The one I bought looks like a generic camera to Win XP, but needs
software installed for Win7. Why did Microsoft break the generic USB
camera interface?



--

John Larkin Highland Technology, Inc
picosecond timing precision measurement

jlarkin att highlandtechnology dott com
http://www.highlandtechnology.com

You can scope out all the mold growth and structural member rot too.

Ever cheerful, Freddy!

It's the 70-70-70 rule- lemme see, that means 70% RH, 70oF and 70% wood moisture content, or more, simultaneously, equals a fantastic mold growth. Enjoy, mold farmer.


We don't live in the tropics!

The problem is the enclosed (wet) spaces inside the structure easily meet these levels unless you have dry air circulating through it, Sherlock. Crawl spaces are another area that easily meets these requirements, usually from water vapor coming in from the ground (concrete is actually a sieve of microchannels).


Mold is not generally a problem in San Francisco, and certainly not a
problem in Truckee, where the RH is generally below 30%. Wet towels
dry impressively fast up there, and you get really cold when you step
out of the shower.

SFDPH thinks it is a problem there.

https://www.sfdph.org/dph/files/EHSdocs/ehsPublsdocs/Mold.pdf

The only mold that I ever see is on the sidewalk in front of our
house. That's the north side, mostly shade, and it gets a little
greenish in the winter if we have a lot of rain. I'm only really
concerned about it being slippery, so I power wash it, maybe once or
twice a year.


--

John Larkin Highland Technology, Inc
picosecond timing precision measurement

jlarkin att highlandtechnology dott com
http://www.highlandtechnology.com

There are space age wood products that kill mold, bacteria and even termites and other pests, but I don't think they're in older homes. So either you're exaggerating the leak or wood does not rot in SF.

The house was built in 1992. That was after the 1989 earthquake, when
codes were upgraded, so the foundation is massive and there's a lot of
steel beams and plywood shearwalls in the structure.

The leaks only happen in violent winter storms, a few times a year,
which gives things time to dry out. If I do see some mold when I get
my borescope, I probably won't bother to remove it. If I can stop the
leak, it will die out.

Our previous house was built in 1892, and was in good shape... except
for the scary brick foundations. It's hard to bolt things down to
bricks.

Now I suspect that some venty-type things in the chimney outlet may
let water in when it rains hard. I'm going to cover them with
copperclad FR4, a great building material. You could do siding and a
roof from FR4... it would probably last a lot longer than wood and
shingles.

You could build almost anything from FR4.


--

John Larkin Highland Technology, Inc
picosecond timing laser drivers and controllers

jlarkin att highlandtechnology dott com
http://www.highlandtechnology.com

 

[mike]

On 12/18/2014 7:48 PM, Toyin wrote:

On Thursday, December 18, 2014 7:55:55 PM UTC-5, Bill Bowden wrote:
"Martin Brown" <|||newspam|||@nezumi.demon.co.uk> wrote in message
news:q6xkw.458132$CW3.158177@fx07.am4...
On 18/12/2014 01:59, Toyin wrote:
On Wednesday, December 17, 2014 2:20:13 AM UTC-5, mike wrote:
On 12/16/2014 7:57 PM, Toyin wrote:
On Monday, December 15, 2014 11:56:00 PM UTC-5, Toyin wrote:

I need a consultant to help me with my project for a fee. I would like
to use a 555 timer circuit to generate a variable 1 to 5 minute timer
to alternate between 2 bank of batteries that are connected to a
charger and a load. There are four switches where two are on when the
other two are off. Please send me a private email to <olutoyin at
yahoo dot com> if you are interested and can help. Thanks!

I just want to thank everyone for your invaluable input. Since this is
way over my head, I still need help and would contact some of the folks
who had replied and shared their contact information. Thanks again, I
do appreciate the suggestions.

-Toyin

Since nobody else acknowledged the elephant in the room, I'll take a
stab.
Your objective isn't clearly stated...
If you're charging one battery while loading the other,
What happens at the switchover?
Break before make glitches the power off.
Make before break risks breaking something with high
current between the batteries.

It's likely that you'll have issues well beyond timing.
The microprocessor solution gives you the opportunity
to address them. And having A/D converters available lets
you monitor everything and possibly decide that time is
not the optimum switching criterion. Also lets you
log performance and shove data out a LED that that
you can read with a phone/PDA.

You're likely to be disappointed with any rational
approach to a 5-minute analog delay.

I'd back up a level in the system design and approach
the whole range of issues.

I'm curious to know exactly what problem the switchover
solves???

Hi Mike:
I wanted to power loads without the loads seeing the battery. So, the
batteries will be connected to a charger as well as a super capacitor of
equal voltage. So, the switch is to allow one battery to work while the
other is on charge. I've been told this is not possible but I know
wherever there's a will, there's always a way. Thanks for your insight.
I truly appreciate it.

I think you need to explain what it is that you are trying to do before it
is possible to offer any sensible advice. You don't appear to have grasped
even the basic concepts of how electrical circuits work!

The super capacitor is performing the same function as a battery only
doing it very badly with a voltage output that falls away exponentially
with time under load. I can't imagine why you would want to do that.

OK there are a few specialist things like charging up a huge bank of EHT
capacitors very slowly and then letting rip discharging in a few us.

--
Regards,
Martin Brown

I think he wants to use 2 sets of 48 volt batteries to supply 250 watts at
120VAC through an inverter while at the same time charging the second set of
batteries from renewable sources such as solar and wind. He needs a system
to manage that operation and also a regulator to prevent overcharge. He has
implemented the system using manual switches but has limited experience with
electronics. He wants someone to gather the details and assemble the circuit
for a fee. If you can do that, send him a email and ask all the questions so
you know what is needed. I thought the 555 timer idea might work, but it
wasn't clear about the duty cycle, or changing conditions.



--- news://freenews.netfront.net/ - complaints: news@netfront.net ---

Thanks for the clarification, Bill. One other explanation is that I'm using a capacitive charger that is almost 100 percent efficient.

Still no reasoning presented for using two sets of batteries.
Some issues.
Battery charge efficiency is less than 1.
Constant charging and discharging wears them out.
Taking the same number of amp-hours out of twice
as big a battery wears it less and is more efficient
than twice the current per cell out of each set.
If you have sustainable current available, you don't
need to wear the batteries to use it.
If you don't have sustainable current available, you'd
be better off with the batteries in parallel anyway.
If you need a regulator, you have excess charge energy.
Seems rational to stuff that energy into the battery being used.
Then there's the whole issue of heat generated during the
constant charge/discharge shortening the battery life.

I've done hardware and software architecture work for mountaintop
radio repeater installations.
After years of dealing with real-world issues, the recent systems
just stuff the wind generator and the solar power into the batteries.

A single PIC16F877A programmed in BASIC, for historical reasons,
implements the
MPPT controller for the solar and the load-dump shunt regulator
that clamps the battery voltage. Turns out that we had to do that
to keep an unloaded wind generator from tearing itself apart
in high wind...so just shunt regulate the whole damn thing.
The PIC also implements the logging and voice synthesis to
support reporting battery status and weather over the radio.
The guys also implemented a solar tracker that moves the array
to track the sun...but it was deemed too mechanically fragile
to survive winter on a mountaintop and abandoned.

Are we having fun yet?

 

[DecadentLinuxUserNumeroUn]

On Thu, 18 Dec 2014 18:50:08 -0800 (PST),
bloggs.fredbloggs.fred@gmail.com Gave us:

On Thursday, December 18, 2014 4:18:27 PM UTC-5, DecadentLinuxUserNumeroUno wrote:
snip idiocy

You're Grise and everyone knows it. Now up the dose so you come completely unglued, you're not quite there yet.

Umm... No. I am not, and everyone knows *that*, you retarded putz!
Even more funny is the fact that you act so bloody retarded, despite
claiming to be on no medication.

So, that only leaves senile old bastard.

And you're just plain stupid on top of that.

No. Not "Grise". Never was, despite your stupidity, which has
spanned over a decade now.

No. Not an any medication.

And Yes. It is as easy as cutting a fart to put a retarded, senile
old bastard twerp like you in your place.

 

[dcaster@krl.org]

On Thursday, December 18, 2014 1:47:07 PM UTC-5, Don Y wrote:

I was (personally) hoping for something more along the lines of:
X was developed to address this market segment; Y is like X
but cheaper because this capability has been elided; Z is a
die shrink of Y; Q is a power-hungry version of Z aimed at
this market niche; etc. (i.e., so *I* get an education as well)

This might be of interest to somebody. Amd is selling a light weight processor which is intended for the low power user. It is the Kabini and is essentially a notebook processor that goes into a socket instead of being soldered to the motherboard. It has all the stuff on one chip instead of requiring another chip for the I/O. So the motherboard are cheap.

Currently Newegg is selling a AM1 ( the socket ) motherboard for $30 with a $10 rebate. And Tiger Direct is selling the AMD 5150 ( 4 core 1.6 Ghz ) processor for $35 with shipping. Note Bene It uses DDR3 memory which will add to the cost if you do not have some on hand.

Again a low power ( 25 Watt ) inexpensive processor that uses modern memory and 6 Ghz Sata hard drive , with USB 3.0 and decent on chip graphics.

Dan

Dan

 

On Friday, December 19, 2014 12:58:02 AM UTC-5, DecadentLinuxUserNumeroUno wrote:

You're Grise and everyone knows it. Now up the dose so you come completely unglued, you're not quite there yet.

Umm... No. I am not, and everyone knows *that*,

That's exactly who you are, a useless, washed-up, never-was head...

You're not impressing anyone, your posts are on the pathetic side, no content, usually rants and raves about your delusional perception of yourself. All you've ever succeeded in doing is convince people of your personality-disordered narcissism and gross ignorance.

 

On Thursday, December 18, 2014 11:32:29 PM UTC-5, mike wrote:

On 12/18/2014 7:48 PM, Toyin wrote:
On Thursday, December 18, 2014 7:55:55 PM UTC-5, Bill Bowden wrote:
"Martin Brown" <|||newspam|||@nezumi.demon.co.uk> wrote in message
news:q6xkw.458132$CW3.158177@fx07.am4...
On 18/12/2014 01:59, Toyin wrote:
On Wednesday, December 17, 2014 2:20:13 AM UTC-5, mike wrote:
On 12/16/2014 7:57 PM, Toyin wrote:
On Monday, December 15, 2014 11:56:00 PM UTC-5, Toyin wrote:

I need a consultant to help me with my project for a fee. I would like
to use a 555 timer circuit to generate a variable 1 to 5 minute timer
to alternate between 2 bank of batteries that are connected to a
charger and a load. There are four switches where two are on when the
other two are off. Please send me a private email to <olutoyin at
yahoo dot com> if you are interested and can help. Thanks!

I just want to thank everyone for your invaluable input. Since this is
way over my head, I still need help and would contact some of the folks
who had replied and shared their contact information. Thanks again, I
do appreciate the suggestions.

-Toyin

Since nobody else acknowledged the elephant in the room, I'll take a
stab.
Your objective isn't clearly stated...
If you're charging one battery while loading the other,
What happens at the switchover?
Break before make glitches the power off.
Make before break risks breaking something with high
current between the batteries.

It's likely that you'll have issues well beyond timing.
The microprocessor solution gives you the opportunity
to address them. And having A/D converters available lets
you monitor everything and possibly decide that time is
not the optimum switching criterion. Also lets you
log performance and shove data out a LED that that
you can read with a phone/PDA.

You're likely to be disappointed with any rational
approach to a 5-minute analog delay.

I'd back up a level in the system design and approach
the whole range of issues.

I'm curious to know exactly what problem the switchover
solves???

Hi Mike:
I wanted to power loads without the loads seeing the battery. So, the
batteries will be connected to a charger as well as a super capacitor of
equal voltage. So, the switch is to allow one battery to work while the
other is on charge. I've been told this is not possible but I know
wherever there's a will, there's always a way. Thanks for your insight.
I truly appreciate it.

I think you need to explain what it is that you are trying to do before it
is possible to offer any sensible advice. You don't appear to have grasped
even the basic concepts of how electrical circuits work!

The super capacitor is performing the same function as a battery only
doing it very badly with a voltage output that falls away exponentially
with time under load. I can't imagine why you would want to do that.

OK there are a few specialist things like charging up a huge bank of EHT
capacitors very slowly and then letting rip discharging in a few us.

--
Regards,
Martin Brown

I think he wants to use 2 sets of 48 volt batteries to supply 250 watts at
120VAC through an inverter while at the same time charging the second set of
batteries from renewable sources such as solar and wind. He needs a system
to manage that operation and also a regulator to prevent overcharge. He has
implemented the system using manual switches but has limited experience with
electronics. He wants someone to gather the details and assemble the circuit
for a fee. If you can do that, send him a email and ask all the questions so
you know what is needed. I thought the 555 timer idea might work, but it
wasn't clear about the duty cycle, or changing conditions.



--- news://freenews.netfront.net/ - complaints: news@netfront.net ---

Thanks for the clarification, Bill. One other explanation is that I'm using a capacitive charger that is almost 100 percent efficient.

Still no reasoning presented for using two sets of batteries.
Some issues.
Battery charge efficiency is less than 1.
Constant charging and discharging wears them out.
Taking the same number of amp-hours out of twice
as big a battery wears it less and is more efficient
than twice the current per cell out of each set.
If you have sustainable current available, you don't
need to wear the batteries to use it.
If you don't have sustainable current available, you'd
be better off with the batteries in parallel anyway.
If you need a regulator, you have excess charge energy.
Seems rational to stuff that energy into the battery being used.
Then there's the whole issue of heat generated during the
constant charge/discharge shortening the battery life.

I've done hardware and software architecture work for mountaintop
radio repeater installations.
After years of dealing with real-world issues, the recent systems
just stuff the wind generator and the solar power into the batteries.

A single PIC16F877A programmed in BASIC, for historical reasons,
implements the
MPPT controller for the solar and the load-dump shunt regulator
that clamps the battery voltage. Turns out that we had to do that
to keep an unloaded wind generator from tearing itself apart
in high wind...so just shunt regulate the whole damn thing.
The PIC also implements the logging and voice synthesis to
support reporting battery status and weather over the radio.
The guys also implemented a solar tracker that moves the array
to track the sun...but it was deemed too mechanically fragile
to survive winter on a mountaintop and abandoned.

Are we having fun yet?

How many names do you pose under Liebermann, Mike, Goldstein...

 

On Thursday, December 18, 2014 10:48:07 PM UTC-5, Toyin wrote:

On Thursday, December 18, 2014 7:55:55 PM UTC-5, Bill Bowden wrote:
"Martin Brown" <|||newspam|||@nezumi.demon.co.uk> wrote in message
news:q6xkw.458132$CW3.158177@fx07.am4...
On 18/12/2014 01:59, Toyin wrote:
On Wednesday, December 17, 2014 2:20:13 AM UTC-5, mike wrote:
On 12/16/2014 7:57 PM, Toyin wrote:
On Monday, December 15, 2014 11:56:00 PM UTC-5, Toyin wrote:

I need a consultant to help me with my project for a fee. I would like
to use a 555 timer circuit to generate a variable 1 to 5 minute timer
to alternate between 2 bank of batteries that are connected to a
charger and a load. There are four switches where two are on when the
other two are off. Please send me a private email to <olutoyin at
yahoo dot com> if you are interested and can help. Thanks!

I just want to thank everyone for your invaluable input. Since this is
way over my head, I still need help and would contact some of the folks
who had replied and shared their contact information. Thanks again, I
do appreciate the suggestions.

-Toyin

Since nobody else acknowledged the elephant in the room, I'll take a
stab.
Your objective isn't clearly stated...
If you're charging one battery while loading the other,
What happens at the switchover?
Break before make glitches the power off.
Make before break risks breaking something with high
current between the batteries.

It's likely that you'll have issues well beyond timing.
The microprocessor solution gives you the opportunity
to address them. And having A/D converters available lets
you monitor everything and possibly decide that time is
not the optimum switching criterion. Also lets you
log performance and shove data out a LED that that
you can read with a phone/PDA.

You're likely to be disappointed with any rational
approach to a 5-minute analog delay.

I'd back up a level in the system design and approach
the whole range of issues.

I'm curious to know exactly what problem the switchover
solves???

Hi Mike:
I wanted to power loads without the loads seeing the battery. So, the
batteries will be connected to a charger as well as a super capacitor of
equal voltage. So, the switch is to allow one battery to work while the
other is on charge. I've been told this is not possible but I know
wherever there's a will, there's always a way. Thanks for your insight.
I truly appreciate it.

I think you need to explain what it is that you are trying to do before it
is possible to offer any sensible advice. You don't appear to have grasped
even the basic concepts of how electrical circuits work!

The super capacitor is performing the same function as a battery only
doing it very badly with a voltage output that falls away exponentially
with time under load. I can't imagine why you would want to do that.

OK there are a few specialist things like charging up a huge bank of EHT
capacitors very slowly and then letting rip discharging in a few us.

--
Regards,
Martin Brown

I think he wants to use 2 sets of 48 volt batteries to supply 250 watts at
120VAC through an inverter while at the same time charging the second set of
batteries from renewable sources such as solar and wind. He needs a system
to manage that operation and also a regulator to prevent overcharge. He has
implemented the system using manual switches but has limited experience with
electronics. He wants someone to gather the details and assemble the circuit
for a fee. If you can do that, send him a email and ask all the questions so
you know what is needed. I thought the 555 timer idea might work, but it
wasn't clear about the duty cycle, or changing conditions.



--- news://freenews.netfront.net/ - complaints: news@netfront.net ---

Thanks for the clarification, Bill. One other explanation is that I'm using a capacitive charger that is almost 100 percent efficient.

Ideas are worthless when they're not grounded in at least a familiarity of the technologies to be used. You obviously don't have a clue about anything.. Your idea is just plain STUPID and most importantly offers no advantage over existing systems. You're not going to consider a comparative analysis because you can't do it and your brainchild will undergo a quick abortion.

 

[josephkk]

On Thu, 18 Dec 2014 13:33:43 -0700, Don Y <this@is.not.me.com> wrote:

Hi Martin,

On 12/17/2014 2:58 AM, Martin Brown wrote:
On 17/12/2014 05:46, Don Y wrote:

A group for which I'd built a small "computer lab" dropped me
a note, today, indicating that they have a donor (business)
willing to supply them with "newer" (but still not "current")
machines (these are desktops).

Anyone care to venture a *brief* description of the relative strengths
of this alphabet soup? And, a rough guide as to how to *try* to
relate specs from one "family" to another? E.g., if all you're doing
is browsing the web, MHz may be a good indicator. OTOH, if you're
watching *videos* (without GPU accelerator), then ....? Doing CAD
work would favor...? etc.

Sorry, I realize this is probably one of those questions to which a
firm answer is probably wishful thinking. It would, however, also
benefit *me* to get a better understanding of the markets addressed
by each of these.

Simple solution is check the figure of merit on CPU benchmarks.
It isn't perfect since some CPUs excel at eg video transcoding.

http://www.cpubenchmark.net/

Exactly. Benchmarks really only make sense if you are *doing*
exactly what is being benchmarked in exactly the same proportions!

Hyperthreading isn't an advantage unless the application is *very* specific an
extremely easy to parallelise. Most real problems go memory bandwidth limited
without using all the available CPU threads.

Anything with a figure of merit 3000+ will be OK for most basic uses including

Yikes! This (email/WWW/etc.) machine is a Core2 Duo 1.86 -- about 1100
on your chart. I've not seen any issues with things like web browsing
(which, nowadays, is a piggish application). No office suite on this
machine (we don't use them) but I'd imagine it would also be speedy enough
for that.

[I always wonder how developers can burn so many BILLIONS of instruction
cycles doing so (apparently) little! :< ]

small amounts of video editing - obviously the higher the better. I prefer
Intel CPUs myself but that is only because of past experience with a batch of
self immolating AMD ones.

I *think* their uses will be MSOffice, web browsing, et ilk. OTOH, I imagine
viewing lots of (youtube) videos, Flash presentations (ahem "advertisements"),
etc. They can also afford to lag behind "current" OS's (e.g., the next
machines will probably get Vista or W7).

I, OTOH, am curious as to the markets (applications) targeted by each of these
various flavors of CPU. Originally, it was easy to see *big* differences in
product offerings (e.g., 386 being the first *practical* "big machine"
architecturally). With internal FPU? Without? 16b bus? etc.

But, I long ago gave up trying to sort out where the sweet spot lies. As long
as my machines are faster than *me*, I'm happy. No idea how many gazillions
of opcodes get executed waiting for me to type the next line of code or decide
which two pins should be connected by a particular signal, etc. (and, I don't
need to sit and stare at the screen while doing a "make world" or autorouting
a PCB! There's always something else that can use my time...)

Well that makes it real simple; anything you get is likely to be more than
enough.

?-)

 

[Jim Thompson]

On Thu, 18 Dec 2014 21:57:57 -0800, DecadentLinuxUserNumeroUno
<DLU1@DecadentLinuxUser.org> wrote:

On Thu, 18 Dec 2014 18:50:08 -0800 (PST),
bloggs.fredbloggs.fred@gmail.com Gave us:

On Thursday, December 18, 2014 4:18:27 PM UTC-5, DecadentLinuxUserNumeroUno wrote:
snip idiocy

You're Grise and everyone knows it. Now up the dose so you come completely unglued, you're not quite there yet.

Umm... No. I am not, and everyone knows *that*, you retarded putz!
Even more funny is the fact that you act so bloody retarded, despite
claiming to be on no medication.

So, that only leaves senile old bastard.

And you're just plain stupid on top of that.

No. Not "Grise". Never was, despite your stupidity, which has
spanned over a decade now.

No. Not an any medication.

And Yes. It is as easy as cutting a fart to put a retarded, senile
old bastard twerp like you in your place.

I do wish you would speak your mind >:-}

...Jim Thompson
--
| James E.Thompson | mens |
| Analog Innovations | et |
| Analog/Mixed-Signal ASIC's and Discrete Systems | manus |
| San Tan Valley, AZ 85142 Skype: skypeanalog | |
| Voice480)460-2350 Fax: Available upon request | Brass Rat |
| E-mail Icon at http://www.analog-innovations.com | 1962 |

I love to cook with wine. Sometimes I even put it in the food.

 

[John Larkin]

On Tue, 16 Dec 2014 09:00:42 -0700, Jim Thompson
<To-Email-Use-The-Envelope-Icon@On-My-Web-Site.com> wrote:

On Mon, 15 Dec 2014 20:41:09 -0800, John Larkin
jlarkin@highlandtechnology.com> wrote:

On Mon, 15 Dec 2014 19:04:03 -0800 (PST),
bloggs.fredbloggs.fred@gmail.com wrote:

On Monday, December 15, 2014 6:53:20 PM UTC-5, Jim Thompson wrote:


Mean to work inside that narrow a space.

Give me a break. Today I planted B&B clump amelanchier canadensis with ball dimensions of 24 x 24 x 18 inches of water saturated clay. At about 110 lbs per cubic foot (http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/dirt-mud-densities-d_1727.html), this thing came in at between 500 and 600 Lbs, there is a slight taper to the cut so it's not a full 6 Ft^3. I had to hoist it about 250 ft to the planting location with an appliance dolly, dig a level hole to relatively precise dimensions, wrestle it into the hole, level it, flood it with 20 gals water, berm it, mulch it, admire it- about a two hour job- dunno why it always takes me so long.

Relative fun. I spent about 9 hours last weekend trying to fix the
leak in the living room ceiling. I've been battling this one for 15
years, and have got damned good at sheetrock repair.

There's a flat, roofed deck just above, with a sliding glass door. A
couple years ago, I had the whole deck re-roofed and a new sliding
door assembly installed. It still leaked.

1. Why are all contractors such jerks?

2. Why are all consumer products, regardless of price, such crap?

The roofing material should have gone UNDER the door frame. It didn't.

People don't do carpentry any more, they use construction adhesive.
Makes things hard to work on. Trim boards come off with a chisel, one
wood sliver at a time.

The door frame is a bunch of insanely complex plastic extrusions,
designed to trap water in every possible place.

Among other things, I seriously hacked the door frame with a Dremel to
make channels to let the water out. A lot came out.

It doesn't rain here all summer, so the first winter storm, all the
streets flood, all the hills slide, all the roofs leak, all at once.
Sandbags everywhere in The Mission. People forget how to drive in the
rain and have to re-learn it.

At least there's snow in the mountains, which makes it worth it.

Check all the flashing. The only roof leak that drove me nuts trying
to find turned out to be wind-driven rain going sideways under the
flashing that was located between the flat patio roof and the sloped
portion over the kitchen.

...Jim Thompson

I suppose I could caulk under the flashing everywhere. I've tried most
everything else.


--

John Larkin Highland Technology, Inc
picosecond timing laser drivers and controllers

jlarkin att highlandtechnology dott com
http://www.highlandtechnology.com

 

[Jim Thompson]

On Fri, 19 Dec 2014 09:28:03 -0800, John Larkin
<jlarkin@highlandtechnology.com> wrote:

On Tue, 16 Dec 2014 09:00:42 -0700, Jim Thompson
To-Email-Use-The-Envelope-Icon@On-My-Web-Site.com> wrote:

On Mon, 15 Dec 2014 20:41:09 -0800, John Larkin
jlarkin@highlandtechnology.com> wrote:

On Mon, 15 Dec 2014 19:04:03 -0800 (PST),
bloggs.fredbloggs.fred@gmail.com wrote:

On Monday, December 15, 2014 6:53:20 PM UTC-5, Jim Thompson wrote:


Mean to work inside that narrow a space.

Give me a break. Today I planted B&B clump amelanchier canadensis with ball dimensions of 24 x 24 x 18 inches of water saturated clay. At about 110 lbs per cubic foot (http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/dirt-mud-densities-d_1727.html), this thing came in at between 500 and 600 Lbs, there is a slight taper to the cut so it's not a full 6 Ft^3. I had to hoist it about 250 ft to the planting location with an appliance dolly, dig a level hole to relatively precise dimensions, wrestle it into the hole, level it, flood it with 20 gals water, berm it, mulch it, admire it- about a two hour job- dunno why it always takes me so long.

Relative fun. I spent about 9 hours last weekend trying to fix the
leak in the living room ceiling. I've been battling this one for 15
years, and have got damned good at sheetrock repair.

There's a flat, roofed deck just above, with a sliding glass door. A
couple years ago, I had the whole deck re-roofed and a new sliding
door assembly installed. It still leaked.

1. Why are all contractors such jerks?

2. Why are all consumer products, regardless of price, such crap?

The roofing material should have gone UNDER the door frame. It didn't.

People don't do carpentry any more, they use construction adhesive.
Makes things hard to work on. Trim boards come off with a chisel, one
wood sliver at a time.

The door frame is a bunch of insanely complex plastic extrusions,
designed to trap water in every possible place.

Among other things, I seriously hacked the door frame with a Dremel to
make channels to let the water out. A lot came out.

It doesn't rain here all summer, so the first winter storm, all the
streets flood, all the hills slide, all the roofs leak, all at once.
Sandbags everywhere in The Mission. People forget how to drive in the
rain and have to re-learn it.

At least there's snow in the mountains, which makes it worth it.

Check all the flashing. The only roof leak that drove me nuts trying
to find turned out to be wind-driven rain going sideways under the
flashing that was located between the flat patio roof and the sloped
portion over the kitchen.

...Jim Thompson

I suppose I could caulk under the flashing everywhere. I've tried most
everything else.

My solution was as simple as getting wider flashing and bending over
the edge.

...Jim Thompson
--
| James E.Thompson | mens |
| Analog Innovations | et |
| Analog/Mixed-Signal ASIC's and Discrete Systems | manus |
| San Tan Valley, AZ 85142 Skype: skypeanalog | |
| Voice480)460-2350 Fax: Available upon request | Brass Rat |
| E-mail Icon at http://www.analog-innovations.com | 1962 |

I love to cook with wine. Sometimes I even put it in the food.