Do you think splicing 100' of wire onto a GTO exit wand woul

"Elmo" <dcdraftworks@Use-Author-Supplied-Address.invalid> wrote in message
news:f092f721a034ccd5d2cf9cce687255db@tioat.net...
On Tue, 02 Feb 2010 14:55:51 -0500, mm wrote:


she said the problem is that it will eventually break.

No, it won't. Not if it's soldered correctly.
Have you soldered much?

I have a propane torch, a smaller butane torch with soldering tips, and
the
Weller soldering station. I'm not all that good (I always seem to melt the
solder instead of heating the wires) but I'd consider myself ok with
solder.
Snip

Why not just replace the whole wire from the control box to the sensor wand?
Then theres no splices in the ground.
 
On Wed, 03 Feb 2010 01:42:30 -0500, mm <NOPSAMmm2005@bigfoot.com>
wrote:

Four conductor shielded wire shoudlnt' be easy to get.
Typo. I meant it shouldnt' be hard to get. But maybe only
mail-order (internet).


And of course no one on any newsgroup is obliged to solve a poster's
problems. People try because they want to be helpful and sometimes to
show off their knowledge (or what they think is knowledge at the time
of posting.)

And I too considered returning the original cable. I asked if it had
already been buried and was too dirty to return.

And this question was definitely suitable for sci.eletronics.repair,
because the only real question is at the electronics level. The
question of how to connect two cables is just an inquiry about
technique.
 
And I too considered returning the original cable.
I asked if it had already been buried and was too
dirty to return.
I was told that if you contact customer service, they will make some sort of
accomodation to help you.

Give 'em a call.
 
On Feb 2, 1:26 pm, mm <NOPSAMmm2...@bigfoot.com> wrote:
...snip...
No. Soldering is better.   The phone company doesn't want to spend the
time it takes to solder each connection, up to hundreds a day, and it
has a staff to go fix problems when they develop, as well as
electronic tools to find the break in a wire, by injecting a signal at
one end if necessary.

....snip...
from PERSONAL experience:
DON'T SOLDER LONG TERM CONNECTIONS! ESPECIIALLY OUTDOORS!

Crimp, or constant mechanical pressure is BEST. And DON'T solder a
crimp, you will ruin it.

I made the mistake of soldering links in my security system. Now
these solder joints were something to be proud of, too. Cleaned
wire. Wrapped tightly together at the splice for at least 5 turns.
Solder was high quality and not overheated during soldering. Solder
shiny and wetting out for at least 1 inch. They lasted 10 years before
I got hit with a false alarm. Then a month later another mysterious
false alarm. Each time reset alarm system and all connections were
good. Then went to every week. Until I went to all my soldered
junctions and re-soldered them. Alarm worked for another 10 years,
until, repeat.

I never had to re-do my crimped connections.

Being an arrogant college graduate, I did not listen to the "lowly"
experienced security system installers who told me about crimping is
better than soldering. I knew better. I thought they just were lazy,
because careful soldering takes time and crimping is fast. I learned
a very humbling experience from these experiences.

By the way, a separate alarm system with links running outside the
building, the soldered connections lasted only one year before false
alarm. So, again, don't solder your connections.

Crimp is best, because you have constant mechanical pressure between
the conductors. Solder won't do that, all eases with time.

Robert
 
On Feb 2, 10:10 pm, Elmo <dcdraftwo...@Use-Author-Supplied-
Address.invalid> wrote:
On Tue, 02 Feb 2010 14:55:51 -0500, mm wrote:
she said the problem is that it will eventually break.

No, it won't.  Not if it's soldered correctly.  
Have you soldered much?  

I have a propane torch, a smaller butane torch with soldering tips, and the
Weller soldering station. I'm not all that good (I always seem to melt the
solder instead of heating the wires) but I'd consider myself ok with
solder.

Of course you'll know where it is. It will be 50 feet from where you
buried the wand.  And about 100 feet from where the controller is.

I could also look for an electrical connection type box (like the ones
used with the water sprinklers) and that way it would be obvious to all,
even any new owners.

Now, if you don't have an connector on the end of the wire,
you could use heat-shrink tubing,
I think the scotch 23, silicone tape will do a much better job.

I think I'll solder in a compatible wire after finding that scotch 23 in a
local hardware store. My home depot didn't have it.

BTW, are you near powerlines?   Most places aren't but a few are.

Yes There are overhead power lines. Why do you ask?
Elmo, believe me.

DON'T SOLDER YOUR UNDERGROUND CONNECTIONS. THEY WILL FAIL

see my other post
 
On Feb 3, 8:43 am, "William Sommerwerck" <grizzledgee...@comcast.net>
wrote:
This has gone on long enough.
No no no....this is the most entertaining thread I have read today. I
love the earnestness of the OP.

Mike
 
On Feb 3, 6:57 am, Jeff Liebermann <je...@cruzio.com> wrote:
....snip...
There are currently 47 messages in this thread, which is a bit much to
read.  I've only read about half, with nothing really interesting
(except my own postings).

....snip...
Jeff Liebermann     je...@cruzio.com
150 Felker St #D    http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann     AE6KS    831-336-2558
LOL! Thanks. I needed that today.
 
On Feb 2, 10:10 pm, Elmo <dcdraftwo...@Use-Author-Supplied-
Address.invalid> wrote:
On Tue, 02 Feb 2010 14:55:51 -0500, mm wrote:
she said the problem is that it will eventually break.

No, it won't.  Not if it's soldered correctly.  
Have you soldered much?  

I have a propane torch, a smaller butane torch with soldering tips, and the
Weller soldering station. I'm not all that good (I always seem to melt the
solder instead of heating the wires) but I'd consider myself ok with
solder.

Of course you'll know where it is. It will be 50 feet from where you
buried the wand.  And about 100 feet from where the controller is.

I could also look for an electrical connection type box (like the ones
used with the water sprinklers) and that way it would be obvious to all,
even any new owners.

Now, if you don't have an connector on the end of the wire,
you could use heat-shrink tubing,
I think the scotch 23, silicone tape will do a much better job.

I think I'll solder in a compatible wire after finding that scotch 23 in a
local hardware store. My home depot didn't have it.

BTW, are you near powerlines?   Most places aren't but a few are.

Yes There are overhead power lines. Why do you ask?
The overhead power lines provide a voltage disturbance [shorted out by
shielding] and a magnetic disturbance, as a result of how much current
is carried [most utilities companies provide free EMF surveys] but if
those lines are low voltage, they are close together, so the magentic
fields won't be as strong as from those 115kV lines, which are
separated by more than 15 feet. If you measure more than 1 microtesla
at your cable, I would be surprised. And, you can calculate the
effect of such a field. Don't worry about it.

But as you know, make the shield a complete 'opaque' wrap, completely
enclosing all wires. Do NOT break the shield and use a single wire to
'jump the gap' for any distance.

From reading the manuals, it appears GTO has active circuitry inside
the wand. Power is supplied to it. Plus, from your comments with
them, it appears the ONLY difference in the wand/cable is length of
wire. Note they know the problems of splicing cable underground and
provide you with a 'trouble-free' long run of sealed wire. A splice
violates that seal, and believe me an underground splice can be
challenging.

You have to retrieve your wand anyway, so I recommend trying the extra
cable length. The cost of cable is small. And for this initial test,
you can simply use any shielded cable containing more than two twisted
pairs. Simply lay the cables out on the ground and test the system.
Probably will work. If so, then as you reinstall underground, use a
better cable and make sure your splice is placed inside a water-free
zone, like in an upside down plastic tub covering the splice. Just
picture how would you house such a splice if the whole system is
underwater? That pretty much covers what rain soaking will do to
you. Even so, still use amalgamizing coatings to seal the conductors,
else they will deteriorate.

Sadly, William has the BEST suggestion, but it is much less
challenging. Go to the vendor and ask them to upgrade you to a longer
cable wand for a small charge. Or, if you feel wronged, no charge.

My bet says the buried part of the system will perform well for ten
years spliced and for 25+ years with no splice.
 
On Thu, 4 Feb 2010 02:16:19 +0900, "Michael Kennedy" <mike@nospam.com>
wrote:

"Elmo" <dcdraftworks@Use-Author-Supplied-Address.invalid> wrote in message
news:f092f721a034ccd5d2cf9cce687255db@tioat.net...
On Tue, 02 Feb 2010 14:55:51 -0500, mm wrote:


she said the problem is that it will eventually break.

No, it won't. Not if it's soldered correctly.
Have you soldered much?

I have a propane torch, a smaller butane torch with soldering tips, and
the
Weller soldering station. I'm not all that good (I always seem to melt the
solder instead of heating the wires) but I'd consider myself ok with
solder.
Snip

Why not just replace the whole wire from the control box to the sensor wand?
Then theres no splices in the ground.
Considering the wand is burried, the only way that will happen is if
you raise the splice above ground!
 
On Wed, 03 Feb 2010 09:54:45 -0500, Meat Plow wrote:

...

Blow it out your ass you incessant babbling assclown.
You fucking idiots have run this topic into the ground
like a bunch off nattering old cunts. In reality you fuckheads
are the trolls, not I and I contribute where I can. Just happens my
contribution to this beaten into the ground thread is for you to end
the cross post and argue about this silly ass bullshit in AHR. If you
don't like it shove it up your fucking fart-valve.

And if you think I care enough about fame in the eyes of
fuckwitted turds like you and the rest of these nattering nincompoops
You are woefully mistaken.
Hee-he-he-eh... Mature response, proves the point nicely.
 
mm <NOPSAMmm2005@bigfoot.com> writes:
On Tue, 02 Feb 2010 12:14:22 -0500, blueman <NOSPAM@nospam.com> wrote:

mm <NOPSAMmm2005@bigfoot.com> writes:
If you're burying it when you're done, silicone tape, I think it's
called, is even better than heat-shrink tubing and doesn't slip on, it
wraps on. Stretch it to 2 or 3 times its length, then wrap while
streched and within a few days it merges into one big probably
waterproof blob. Hard to find though.

HD has it in several locations in our local stores (plumbing and maybe also
electrical areas) - may be hard to find cuz most people don't know about it.

It seems we are talking about -- at least that's what's included in
his kit -- "Scotch 23 High Voltage Tape"**, but when I search on that
at the Home Depot site, I get 2 hits, regular vinyl electrical tape
and packaging tape. When I search on "Scotch 23", I don't get
anything.
I don't remember it being called High Voltage Tape...

Now HD and Lowes have the worst webpages I've come across, so maybe
that doesn't mean anything.

The one easily visible thing I've noticed about this tape is that it
is wound on a white plastic spool, instead of a cardboard spool. It's
thick and has a backing layer that has to be removed to use a piece.
I think that's right because otherwise it would stick to itself -- which
is exactly what it should be doing when you apply it.
Are we talking about the same thing? Do they really have it at HD.
They do in our area.
I looked years ago but couldnt' find it.

It's expensive. I think I paid 11 or 12 dollars a roll, but it's great
for special uses.
I seem to remember more like $5-7.
 
On Wed, 03 Feb 2010 21:44:35 -0500, blueman <NOSPAM@nospam.com> wrote:

mm <NOPSAMmm2005@bigfoot.com> writes:
On Tue, 02 Feb 2010 12:14:22 -0500, blueman <NOSPAM@nospam.com> wrote:

mm <NOPSAMmm2005@bigfoot.com> writes:
If you're burying it when you're done, silicone tape, I think it's
called, is even better than heat-shrink tubing and doesn't slip on, it
wraps on. Stretch it to 2 or 3 times its length, then wrap while
streched and within a few days it merges into one big probably
waterproof blob. Hard to find though.

HD has it in several locations in our local stores (plumbing and maybe also
electrical areas) - may be hard to find cuz most people don't know about it.

It seems we are talking about -- at least that's what's included in
his kit -- "Scotch 23 High Voltage Tape"**, but when I search on that
at the Home Depot site, I get 2 hits, regular vinyl electrical tape
and packaging tape. When I search on "Scotch 23", I don't get
anything.

I don't remember it being called High Voltage Tape...
Most of the hits I got yesterday called it Scotch 23 Rubber Splicing
Tape.

Hah, Mouser sells it. Within the areas they sell things for
connectors, small switches, etc. they have just about everything,
http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/3M-Electronic-Specialty/SCOTCH-23-3-4-TAPE/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMuwwZaQzCsHbBksJ154q6XeW%2F11ygiiXNI%3D

They call it rubber splicing tape. When I got mine, it came without a
wrapper, which is why I ddidn't know what to call it.

They want 22.76 a roll. A dollar less each if you buy two. The URL I
posted yesterday charged about 12. I don't know about relative
shipping costs. This is for 3/4" which is the narrowist I've seen.
30 feet which is what the other rolls that width were.

This width is what I have and if you get wider, it may be harder to
economize with it.

A search for rubber splicing at the HD site showed nothing.

Lowes came up with
Image x
3M 3/4"W x 15'L Electrical Splicing Tape
Item #: 158594 | Model #: 2242

For moisture sealing and insulating.
Highly conformable, linerless ethylene propylene rubber (EPR) based
tape

But this is number 2242 Linerless Rubber Splicing tape, with which I
have no experience and it isn't the same thing because without the
liner the other stuff would merge into a blob. It's only 3.94 but if
it doesn't self-amalgamate, I don't know what is special about it.
Now HD and Lowes have the worst webpages I've come across, so maybe
that doesn't mean anything.

The one easily visible thing I've noticed about this tape is that it
is wound on a white plastic spool, instead of a cardboard spool. It's
thick and has a backing layer that has to be removed to use a piece.
I think that's right because otherwise it would stick to itself -- which
is exactly what it should be doing when you apply it.

Are we talking about the same thing? Do they really have it at HD.
They do in our area.
I looked years ago but couldnt' find it.

It's expensive. I think I paid 11 or 12 dollars a roll, but it's great
for special uses.
I seem to remember more like $5-7.
 
On Wed, 03 Feb 2010 18:55:44 -0500, PeterD wrote:

Considering the wand is burried, the only way that will happen is if
you raise the splice above ground!
Right. The only place the wand and wires comes up for air is directly at
the control box attached to the gate.
 
On Wed, 3 Feb 2010 06:30:08 +0000 (UTC), Elmo
<dcdraftworks@Use-Author-Supplied-Address.invalid> wrote:

On Tue, 02 Feb 2010 18:48:43 -0500, PeterD wrote:

I'd be looking for some shielded CAT5 (STP) stranded wire

Very interesting suggestion!
Reordered:
Note: Removed crosspost.
Don't let one person, especially a person who reads the very newsgroup
you're reading (because of the nature of the question, he must have
thought you were reading SER), pressure you into removing
crossposting. Whether you need individual shielding for each pair
of wires is more an electronics question than it is a home repair
question. Sure plenty of the people on AHR know more than just how to
saw wood, but fewer do electronics full-time, which some of the SER
people do. Fewer took relevant courses also, either in school or at
their jobs.

And especially in this case, I don't know why he's suggesting shielded
pairs when the original cable has only one layer of shielding for all
four wires. I guess because the stuff is easy to get from the places
he shops, but 4-conductor, one-shield is easy to get at other places.

SER restored.

I didn't know what STP was but it's apparently "Shielded Twisted Pair".

Searching, I can easily find 100 foot lengths of "Cat 5 STP", e.g.,
http://www.topmicrousa.com/10x6-521hd.html
Sure you can, and if you get 100 feet, doesn't that mean you'll be
burying the connection with the other 50 feet, as planned?

BTW, don't get carried away with their alleged "today only". There
are at least two places that are cheaper than they are for this every
day of the year. monoprice and one other I bought from

I like the idea of wiring a female RJ45 connector and just plugging a
standard CAT5 STP wire into the RJ45 for convenience (no soldering
required).
Who says it's not required? It's not facilitated or provided for, but
that's not the same as not required. Even Robert Macy -- and no one
has commented on his posts yet. I would like to hear others' opinion
on that -- didn't say that that a mere plug-in modular phone connector
(which is what cat5 and 6 use, except with more wires) was enough. He
disliked soldering but wants crimping. Plugging in is not crimping,
and he recommended crimping.

Apparently CAT5 uses either foil shields or braid and maybe both as alluded
to in this url ( http://sewelldirect.com/Cat5e-STP-Bulk-Cable.asp ).
Yes it does, to shield one pair from another, one wire from a wire in
another pair, but even your original cable doesn't bother to do that.
It only tries to shield the wires from the outside.

With Cat-5 or 6, you're paying for 4 pairs, 8 wires, instead of just 4
wires. That's a waste too.

And you're paying for them to put on ends which unless someone I know
convinces me otherwise, you should really cut off and solder or crimp
to the original wire.

They do use modular plugs where the phone line comes into the house,
if there is a Network Interface Device, or the same thing by another
name. It's a covered box, outside but above grade. I don't know how
often they need maintenance.
 

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