Follow along with the video below to see how to install our site as a web app on your home screen.
Note: This feature may not be available in some browsers.
On Fri, 8 Jul 2016 23:22:01 -0000 (UTC), Danny D. wrote:
Debugging advice requested.
I ran out of options.
I can't think of anything else to do to debug.
One of the rare times in my life where I lost the battle to even *diagnose*
something, let alone fix it.
On Sun, 17 Jul 2016 18:28:30 -0400, Stormin Mormon wrote:
You might (simply) answer Stormy's
simple question. I have a bit of a
guess what is going on.
I have no idea *what question* you are asking.
In response to *this* post, would you kindly just ask the question?
Is it the polygamy question?
On Sun, 17 Jul 2016 20:14:36 -0400, Stormin Mormon wrote:
You might (simply) answer Stormy's
simple question. I have a bit of a
guess what is going on.
I have no idea *what question* you are asking.
In response to *this* post, would you kindly just ask the question?
Is it the polygamy question?
I asked it two or three times. I repeated,
changed the subject line to indicate there
is a question. You quoted it, my very
simple question (at least) three times in
your twenty post rehash. I've kindly asked,
reminded, reposted, encouraged, others have
highlighted the question, and no I'm not
going to do your job for you.
BTW, the simple answer should be five words
or less. I can answer it in three.
1. The
2. Warranty
3. Expired
-----
4. Long
5. Ago
I asked you a simple question.
I'm waiting.
What matters is that the compressor doesn't start, and only started two or
three times when I put the hard-start capacitor on it.
Does anyone have any other ideas for debugging why the compressor won't
restart after the first start?
Christopher, can you perhaps leave "Jesus" out of your threads? It's very irritating.
Cheers,
Gareth.
Debugging advice requested.
I have never debugged a refrigerator in my life.
I never even looked at the back of one before.
2010 Sears Kenmore coldspot 106-59422801 refrigerator/freezer just stopped
working at the same time that a periodic "humming and then clicking" noise
started happening.
Inside temperature this morning was 59F degrees in the frig and 49F in the
freezer (outside temperature is about 70F).
Both dial settings are on cold (mid range) where they were always left.
There is no on/off switch that we know about.
Electricity is working (fan and lights are working).
Fan is blowing full time (dunno if it always did that).
http://i.cubeupload.com/dQOTKL.jpg
Coils are at room temperature and are dusty:
http://i.cubeupload.com/jgkVXv.jpg
Compressor may not be turning on (how can we tell)?
http://i.cubeupload.com/p2OiCZ.jpg
No reason to suspect icemaker water supply yet:
http://i.cubeupload.com/myOvgH.jpg
Top of compressor is hot to the touch but not so hot as to burn (but pretty
hot otherwise):
http://i.cubeupload.com/wAX37P.jpg
We hear a humming noise kick on every five minutes for about 10 or 20
seconds and then a click when it shuts off:
http://tinypic.com/r/e6abk7/9
The only things new are the humming noise, and the fact that the
refrigerator and freezer aren't working.
First aim is to figure out how this thing works.
I was expecting to see a "motor" for the black compressor "bulb" but there
is no motor I can see - but the top of the black compressor "bulb" is hot
to the touch - but the coils are not.
I think the solenoid at the compressor "bulb" is what is making the noise.
Any debugging advice?
On 7/8/2016 7:47 PM, Stormin Mormon wrote:
On 7/8/2016 7:22 PM, Danny D. wrote:
Debugging advice requested.
I have never debugged a refrigerator in my life.
I never even looked at the back of one before.
2010 Sears Kenmore coldspot 106-59422801 refrigerator/freezer just
stopped
working at the same time that a periodic "humming and then clicking"
noise
started happening.
If it's out of warranty, [*are you any good with
electrical repairs*]? Please write back, and we'll
continue the discussion.
Since you missed the question the first time.
--
.
Christopher A. Young
learn more about Jesus
. www.lds.org
Please realize that Danny D claims to answer all
questions, but usually ignores the important
questions, even when asked several times. Danny
D appears to pick and choose what he sees, and
what he does. Even though he says I've helped
diagnose a couple of problems for him over the
years, he's lost my help on this refrig issue.
I can see a couple things that may very well be
big problems (and some simple things he can do).
But, not until he goes back and answers the
questions I've asked two or three times.
"for the last time" is a very wise thing to write.
I hope you keep your own word, and stop feeding
into this guy's analysis pyralysis.
If it had been my refrigerator, it would have
been fixed and running, long time ago. Danny D
doesn't appear to want it fixed, he's just doing
break down, analysis, flow charts, web pictures,
and videos.
Why spend any more time on a guy who's not serious?
I'm to the point where I glance at and delete the
posts with little attention to what he's playing
with.
--
.
Christopher A. Young
learn more about Jesus
. www.lds.org
Funny thing, when you put the *freezer* at the minimum setting, the
*fridge* gets more air through the vent at top left (in this side-by-side
refrigerator/freezer combination). That's because lowering the temperature
in the freezer simply makes the vent open more of the fan air to the
refrigerator.
http://i.cubeupload.com/3yXHsM.jpg
It's confusing, and it's counterintuitive that when you set the freezer to
colder, the refrigerator gets *less* air, hence it's warmer. I don't know
what changes when you set the refrigerator colder though.
10. So the freezer is what cools the refrigerator.
11. That's why lowering the freezer temperature raises the refrig
temperature (according to the service guy anyway).
When I opened the back of the Whirlpool, I was surprised to find a Kenmore
build sheet inside. Everything is almost exactly the same in the Whirlpool
as it was in the Kenmore, even down to the capacitor and relay.
Even the shelves and wire racks were the same.
So Whirlpool *is* Kenmore and Kenmore is Whirlpool.
Don't bet money on that. Kenmore can also be Electrolux (formerly
Frigidaire) LG, Samsung, and just about any other appliance manufacturer.
http://www.appliance411.com/purchase/sears.shtml
3 Defrost timer has failed. This is more
complicated and depends a LOT on the design
of the refrigerator.
Many new units have dual systems. My Samsung keep each setting,
freezer, refrigerator, center drawer at the exact set temperature.