Debug advice Kenmore coldspot 106-59422801 stopped refrigera

[Danny D.]

Debugging advice requested.
I have never debugged a refrigerator in my life.
I never even looked at the back of one before.

2010 Sears Kenmore coldspot 106-59422801 refrigerator/freezer just stopped
working at the same time that a periodic "humming and then clicking" noise
started happening.

Inside temperature this morning was 59F degrees in the frig and 49F in the
freezer (outside temperature is about 70F).

Both dial settings are on cold (mid range) where they were always left.
There is no on/off switch that we know about.
Electricity is working (fan and lights are working).

Fan is blowing full time (dunno if it always did that).
http://i.cubeupload.com/dQOTKL.jpg

Coils are at room temperature and are dusty:
http://i.cubeupload.com/jgkVXv.jpg

Compressor may not be turning on (how can we tell)?
http://i.cubeupload.com/p2OiCZ.jpg

No reason to suspect icemaker water supply yet:
http://i.cubeupload.com/myOvgH.jpg

Top of compressor is hot to the touch but not so hot as to burn (but pretty
hot otherwise):
http://i.cubeupload.com/wAX37P.jpg

We hear a humming noise kick on every five minutes for about 10 or 20
seconds and then a click when it shuts off:
http://tinypic.com/r/e6abk7/9

The only things new are the humming noise, and the fact that the
refrigerator and freezer aren't working.

First aim is to figure out how this thing works.
I was expecting to see a "motor" for the black compressor "bulb" but there
is no motor I can see - but the top of the black compressor "bulb" is hot
to the touch - but the coils are not.

I think the solenoid at the compressor "bulb" is what is making the noise.
Any debugging advice?

 

[Danny D.]

On Fri, 8 Jul 2016 19:47:38 -0400, Stormin Mormon wrote:

Sounds just exactly like a bad start relay
on the compressor. This is considered "sealed
system". If you have the owners manual, see
how long is the sealed system warranty. Probably
five years, so you're out of warranty.

If it's out of warranty, are you any good with
electrical repairs? Please write back, and we'll
continue the discussion.

Thanks for the advice.
The last thing I fixed with your help was the washing machine, who had an
F28/F11 which meant the motor control board was fried.

Before that, it was a non-operational furnace (bad thermistor), and before
that there were a host of things, most of which are working just fine now.

I have the frig unplugged to cool the black compressor "sealed system" down
(right now the black top of the "sealed system" is warm to the touch but
not hot).

A few questions of what I should expect, since I'm not sure that I
understand how the thing works yet.

Of course, I know that decompressing fluid freon (or whatever it uses) to a
gas makes the freon cold which makes the pipes that run through the
refrigerator cold, and then recompressing that recirculating gas back to a
liquid creates heat which is blown off by the fan - but I don't know the
mechanics of what I should expect (e.g., what pumps the fluid/gas through
the system? Gravity?).

So I have questions if I may ask...

0. Are there 3 things inside the "sealed unit"?
a. Motor
b. Compressor
c. Solenoid

1. Is the sealed unit a replaceable part?
http://i.cubeupload.com/wAX37P.jpg (same pic as before)

2. Why would the top of the black sealed unit be hot to the touch?

3. Is there a motor overheat safety switch that may have tripped?

4. Are those black coils in the bottom supposed to be warm or cold?
http://i.cubeupload.com/jgkVXv.jpg (same pic as before)

5. I don't see motion, but the vibrating can be felt on the solenoid on the
OUTSIDE of the sealed unit (it may be translating from inside though). What
is the purpose of that solenoid on the outside of the sealed unit?
http://i.cubeupload.com/p2OiCZ.jpg (same pic as before)

In an hour or so, when the "sealed unit" has cooled down, I'll plug it back
in and report back.

 

[Danny D.]

On Fri, 8 Jul 2016 18:40:55 -0500, Terry Coombs wrote:

Might be the start cap on the compressor unit - what you're calling a
"bulb" is a hermetically sealed compressor with the motor inside . The click
you're hearing is probably the overload relay .

Is this black rectangle the start cap?
http://i.cubeupload.com/aOLfge.jpg

I disconnected the spring (what is it there for?).
I disconnected the wiring.
I tried to pull the black cap outward.
I tried to pull the gray base outward.

Neither would budge.
Have you removed them before?

Is there a trick to removing them?

 

[Danny D.]

On Sat, 9 Jul 2016 07:43:45 +0800, Rheilly Phoull wrote:

Might be the start cap on the compressor unit - what you're calling a
"bulb" is a hermetically sealed compressor with the motor inside . The click
you're hearing is probably the overload relay .

+1

Does this 20-second video sound like what you'd expect if the start cap
wasn't working?

http://tinypic.com/r/e6abk7/9

 

[Danny D.]

On Fri, 08 Jul 2016 20:42:33 -0400, Bob Engelhardt wrote:

As Terry/Snag said, it's very likely that the start cap is bad & the
click you hear is the overload protector opening. (It will cycle back
on after it has cooled.)

Thank you for that advice. The start cap does not look damaged from the
outside, but it may be damaged from the inside.

I'm not sure how to debug if it's the start cap or if it's the "overload
and start relay" though.

In that picture, the capacitor is the black module under the connector.
Sears parts calls it a "run cap", but even so it is very likely the
bad part. You should hope that it is because it's cheap & other
possible bad parts are not.

http://www.searspartsdirect.com/model-part/10659422801/0582/0165000/k0902005/00009.html

Bob

Thank you for that diagram Bob.

Since understanding what it is that I'm looking at helps to begin
debugging, I took the liberty of annotating all the parts on it.

How does this look?
http://i.cubeupload.com/5z2J05.gif

Are these the primary suggested parts to consider debugging?
- #16=Refrigerator overload and start relay Part #: W10189190 Substitution:
WPW10189190 $45.17
- #17=Refrigerator run capacitor Part #: 2264017 Substitution: WPW10662129
$10.39
- #28=Refrigerator compressor assembly Part #: W10183575 Substitution:
W10233961 $358.40

Is it even possible for a homeowner to replace the compressor #28?

 

[Terry Coombs]

Danny D. wrote:

Debugging advice requested.
I have never debugged a refrigerator in my life.
I never even looked at the back of one before.

2010 Sears Kenmore coldspot 106-59422801 refrigerator/freezer just
stopped working at the same time that a periodic "humming and then
clicking" noise started happening.

Inside temperature this morning was 59F degrees in the frig and 49F
in the freezer (outside temperature is about 70F).

Both dial settings are on cold (mid range) where they were always
left. There is no on/off switch that we know about.
Electricity is working (fan and lights are working).

Fan is blowing full time (dunno if it always did that).
http://i.cubeupload.com/dQOTKL.jpg

Coils are at room temperature and are dusty:
http://i.cubeupload.com/jgkVXv.jpg

Compressor may not be turning on (how can we tell)?
http://i.cubeupload.com/p2OiCZ.jpg

No reason to suspect icemaker water supply yet:
http://i.cubeupload.com/myOvgH.jpg

Top of compressor is hot to the touch but not so hot as to burn (but
pretty hot otherwise):
http://i.cubeupload.com/wAX37P.jpg

We hear a humming noise kick on every five minutes for about 10 or 20
seconds and then a click when it shuts off:
http://tinypic.com/r/e6abk7/9

The only things new are the humming noise, and the fact that the
refrigerator and freezer aren't working.

First aim is to figure out how this thing works.
I was expecting to see a "motor" for the black compressor "bulb" but
there is no motor I can see - but the top of the black compressor
"bulb" is hot to the touch - but the coils are not.

I think the solenoid at the compressor "bulb" is what is making the
noise. Any debugging advice?

Might be the start cap on the compressor unit - what you're calling a
"bulb" is a hermetically sealed compressor with the motor inside . The click
you're hearing is probably the overload relay .

--
Snag

 

[Rheilly Phoull]

On 9/07/2016 7:40 AM, Terry Coombs wrote:

Danny D. wrote:
Debugging advice requested.
I have never debugged a refrigerator in my life.
I never even looked at the back of one before.

2010 Sears Kenmore coldspot 106-59422801 refrigerator/freezer just
stopped working at the same time that a periodic "humming and then
clicking" noise started happening.

Inside temperature this morning was 59F degrees in the frig and 49F
in the freezer (outside temperature is about 70F).

Both dial settings are on cold (mid range) where they were always
left. There is no on/off switch that we know about.
Electricity is working (fan and lights are working).

Fan is blowing full time (dunno if it always did that).
http://i.cubeupload.com/dQOTKL.jpg

Coils are at room temperature and are dusty:
http://i.cubeupload.com/jgkVXv.jpg

Compressor may not be turning on (how can we tell)?
http://i.cubeupload.com/p2OiCZ.jpg

No reason to suspect icemaker water supply yet:
http://i.cubeupload.com/myOvgH.jpg

Top of compressor is hot to the touch but not so hot as to burn (but
pretty hot otherwise):
http://i.cubeupload.com/wAX37P.jpg

We hear a humming noise kick on every five minutes for about 10 or 20
seconds and then a click when it shuts off:
http://tinypic.com/r/e6abk7/9

The only things new are the humming noise, and the fact that the
refrigerator and freezer aren't working.

First aim is to figure out how this thing works.
I was expecting to see a "motor" for the black compressor "bulb" but
there is no motor I can see - but the top of the black compressor
"bulb" is hot to the touch - but the coils are not.

I think the solenoid at the compressor "bulb" is what is making the
noise. Any debugging advice?

Might be the start cap on the compressor unit - what you're calling a
"bulb" is a hermetically sealed compressor with the motor inside . The click
you're hearing is probably the overload relay .

+1

 

[Stormin Mormon]

On 7/8/2016 7:22 PM, Danny D. wrote:

Debugging advice requested.
I have never debugged a refrigerator in my life.
I never even looked at the back of one before.

2010 Sears Kenmore coldspot 106-59422801 refrigerator/freezer just stopped
working at the same time that a periodic "humming and then clicking" noise
started happening.

Inside temperature this morning was 59F degrees in the frig and 49F in the
freezer (outside temperature is about 70F).

Both dial settings are on cold (mid range) where they were always left.
There is no on/off switch that we know about.
Electricity is working (fan and lights are working).

Fan is blowing full time (dunno if it always did that).
http://i.cubeupload.com/dQOTKL.jpg

Coils are at room temperature and are dusty:
http://i.cubeupload.com/jgkVXv.jpg

Compressor may not be turning on (how can we tell)?
http://i.cubeupload.com/p2OiCZ.jpg

No reason to suspect icemaker water supply yet:
http://i.cubeupload.com/myOvgH.jpg

Top of compressor is hot to the touch but not so hot as to burn (but pretty
hot otherwise):
http://i.cubeupload.com/wAX37P.jpg

We hear a humming noise kick on every five minutes for about 10 or 20
seconds and then a click when it shuts off:
http://tinypic.com/r/e6abk7/9

The only things new are the humming noise, and the fact that the
refrigerator and freezer aren't working.

First aim is to figure out how this thing works.
I was expecting to see a "motor" for the black compressor "bulb" but there
is no motor I can see - but the top of the black compressor "bulb" is hot
to the touch - but the coils are not.

I think the solenoid at the compressor "bulb" is what is making the noise.
Any debugging advice?

Sounds just exactly like a bad start relay
on the compressor. This is considered "sealed
system". If you have the owners manual, see
how long is the sealed system warranty. Probably
five years, so you're out of warranty.

If it's out of warranty, are you any good with
electrical repairs? Please write back, and we'll
continue the discussion.

--
..
Christopher A. Young
learn more about Jesus
.. www.lds.org
..
..

 

[tom]

"Stormin Mormon" <cayoung61@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:tYWfz.64194$w13.29910@fx22.iad...

On 7/8/2016 7:22 PM, Danny D. wrote:
Debugging advice requested.
I have never debugged a refrigerator in my life.
I never even looked at the back of one before.

2010 Sears Kenmore coldspot 106-59422801 refrigerator/freezer just
stopped
working at the same time that a periodic "humming and then clicking"
noise
started happening.

Inside temperature this morning was 59F degrees in the frig and 49F in
the
freezer (outside temperature is about 70F).

Both dial settings are on cold (mid range) where they were always left.
There is no on/off switch that we know about.
Electricity is working (fan and lights are working).

Fan is blowing full time (dunno if it always did that).
http://i.cubeupload.com/dQOTKL.jpg

Coils are at room temperature and are dusty:
http://i.cubeupload.com/jgkVXv.jpg

Compressor may not be turning on (how can we tell)?
http://i.cubeupload.com/p2OiCZ.jpg

No reason to suspect icemaker water supply yet:
http://i.cubeupload.com/myOvgH.jpg

Top of compressor is hot to the touch but not so hot as to burn (but
pretty
hot otherwise):
http://i.cubeupload.com/wAX37P.jpg

We hear a humming noise kick on every five minutes for about 10 or 20
seconds and then a click when it shuts off:
http://tinypic.com/r/e6abk7/9

The only things new are the humming noise, and the fact that the
refrigerator and freezer aren't working.

First aim is to figure out how this thing works.
I was expecting to see a "motor" for the black compressor "bulb" but
there
is no motor I can see - but the top of the black compressor "bulb" is hot
to the touch - but the coils are not.

I think the solenoid at the compressor "bulb" is what is making the
noise.
Any debugging advice?


Sounds just exactly like a bad start relay
on the compressor. This is considered "sealed
system". If you have the owners manual, see
how long is the sealed system warranty. Probably
five years, so you're out of warranty.

If it's out of warranty, are you any good with
electrical repairs? Please write back, and we'll
continue the discussion.

--
.

I would add that you should unplug the unit until you figure out what is
wrong. In the current condition the OC protection is greatly stressed and
will not last long.

 

[Bob Engelhardt]

On 7/8/2016 7:22 PM, Danny D. wrote:

...
Compressor may not be turning on (how can we tell)?
http://i.cubeupload.com/p2OiCZ.jpg
...

As Terry/Snag said, it's very likely that the start cap is bad & the
click you hear is the overload protector opening. (It will cycle back
on after it has cooled.)

In that picture, the capacitor is the black module under the connector.
Sears parts calls it a "run cap", but even so it is very likely the
bad part. You should hope that it is because it's cheap & other
possible bad parts are not.

http://www.searspartsdirect.com/model-part/10659422801/0582/0165000/k0902005/00009.html

Bob

BTW - you should unplug the fridge.

 

[Bob Engelhardt]

Also - the 10 or 20 seconds of humming that you hear is the motor TRYING
to start. It can't without the cap & that that why the "bulb" is hot.

 

[Danny D.]

On Fri, 08 Jul 2016 22:54:05 -0400, Bob Engelhardt wrote:

How does this look?
http://i.cubeupload.com/5z2J05.gif

How did you do that?

I just saved the diagram you pointed me to, which also had the parts name
and prices, and I annotated the diagram with the parts name and price using
a freeware editor (Paint.NET on Windows).

Those are them. The cap is the easiest, cheapest, and most likely to be
bad. "Easy" in the sense of removing & replacing. Testing for bad is
not real easy, but doable.

You guys gave me the confidence on the cap to use more force, and when I
did, the cap came right off (thanks!):
http://i.cubeupload.com/uHWsBd.jpg

The relay is still stuck on the compressor.
http://i.cubeupload.com/EnZxki.jpg

The cap looks good and doesn't smell burnt, but, for $10, it's not worth
testing the cap:
http://i.cubeupload.com/PiHwXk.jpg

Besides, there's ten times that in food waiting to be spoiled!
http://i.cubeupload.com/36h0Z0.jpg

Note to Oren: Those aren't huckleberries; 'dems elderberries!

The overload/relay is probably just plugged onto 2 prongs sticking out
of the compressor can. Debugging it might be a challenge.

Replacing the compressor is definitely not a homeowner job.
I was afraid of that.

So are these my basic choices?
a) capacitor, or
b) relay, or
c) new frig?

Any idea how to test the relay?

 

[Stormin Mormon]

On 7/8/2016 8:31 PM, tom wrote:

"Stormin Mormon" <cayoung61@hotmail.com> wrote in message

Sounds just exactly like a bad start relay
on the compressor. This is considered "sealed
system". If you have the owners manual, see
how long is the sealed system warranty. Probably
five years, so you're out of warranty.

If it's out of warranty, are you any good with
electrical repairs? Please write back, and we'll
continue the discussion.

--
.

I would add that you should unplug the unit until you figure out what is
wrong. In the current condition the OC protection is greatly stressed and
will not last long.

You are so, so right. The compressor will
eventually over heat and might burn out.

Thank you, well said.

--
..
Christopher A. Young
learn more about Jesus
.. www.lds.org
..
..

 

[Stormin Mormon]

On 7/8/2016 8:49 PM, Danny D. wrote:

On Fri, 8 Jul 2016 19:47:38 -0400, Stormin Mormon wrote:

Sounds just exactly like a bad start relay
on the compressor. This is considered "sealed
system". If you have the owners manual, see
how long is the sealed system warranty. Probably
five years, so you're out of warranty.

If it's out of warranty, are you any good with
electrical repairs? Please write back, and we'll
continue the discussion.

Thanks for the advice.
The last thing I fixed with your help was the washing machine, who had an
F28/F11 which meant the motor control board was fried.

Before that, it was a non-operational furnace (bad thermistor), and before
that there were a host of things, most of which are working just fine now.

CY: Glad to be some help. Any time (well, figuratively
speaking).

I have the frig unplugged to cool the black compressor "sealed system" down
(right now the black top of the "sealed system" is warm to the touch but
not hot).

A few questions of what I should expect, since I'm not sure that I
understand how the thing works yet.

Of course, I know that decompressing fluid freon (or whatever it uses) to a
gas makes the freon cold which makes the pipes that run through the
refrigerator cold, and then recompressing that recirculating gas back to a
liquid creates heat which is blown off by the fan - but I don't know the
mechanics of what I should expect (e.g., what pumps the fluid/gas through
the system? Gravity?).

CY: The big black thing in the back is a compressor.

So I have questions if I may ask...

0. Are there 3 things inside the "sealed unit"?
a. Motor
b. Compressor
c. Solenoid

CY: No, the motor and compressor are inside. The start relay (and some
have a relay and a capacitor) outside the sealed unit. The relay and cap
should never contact refrigerant. That said, the company probably
considers the relay and cap to be part of the sealed system.

1. Is the sealed unit a replaceable part?
http://i.cubeupload.com/wAX37P.jpg (same pic as before)

CY: Yes. Though, it's often not cost effective. Requires refrigerant
pump, brazing, electrical, and more than that. Takes about three hours.

2. Why would the top of the black sealed unit be hot to the touch?

CY: The black sealed unit contains electric windings for the motor. The
unit keeps trying to start the compressor. Amp draw, turns the electric
watts into heat.

3. Is there a motor overheat safety switch that may have tripped?

CY: Yes, that combination amp and temp safety switch is what gives you
the repeated hum click.

4. Are those black coils in the bottom supposed to be warm or cold?
http://i.cubeupload.com/jgkVXv.jpg (same pic as before)
CY: When the refrig is running, warm. They should NEVER get cold.

5. I don't see motion, but the vibrating can be felt on the solenoid on the
OUTSIDE of the sealed unit (it may be translating from inside though). What
is the purpose of that solenoid on the outside of the sealed unit?
http://i.cubeupload.com/p2OiCZ.jpg (same pic as before)

CY: The compressor has two windings. Start, and run. The relay supplies
power to the start winding, and then later power to the run winding.

In an hour or so, when the "sealed unit" has cooled down, I'll plug it back
in and report back.

CY: I'm guessing it will do exactly the same hum click routine.
It's late on the east coast, I'm going to bed.
--
..
Christopher A. Young
learn more about Jesus
.. www.lds.org
..
..

 

[Bob Engelhardt]

On 7/8/2016 10:40 PM, Danny D. wrote:

On Fri, 08 Jul 2016 20:42:33 -0400, Bob Engelhardt wrote:

As Terry/Snag said, it's very likely that the start cap is bad & the
click you hear is the overload protector opening. (It will cycle back
on after it has cooled.)

Thank you for that advice. The start cap does not look damaged from the
outside, but it may be damaged from the inside.

Caps go bad without looking damaged (except electrolytics will bulge).

I'm not sure how to debug if it's the start cap or if it's the "overload
and start relay" though.

In that picture, the capacitor is the black module under the connector.
Sears parts calls it a "run cap", but even so it is very likely the
bad part. You should hope that it is because it's cheap & other
possible bad parts are not.

http://www.searspartsdirect.com/model-part/10659422801/0582/0165000/k0902005/00009.html

Bob

Thank you for that diagram Bob.

Since understanding what it is that I'm looking at helps to begin
debugging, I took the liberty of annotating all the parts on it.

How does this look?
http://i.cubeupload.com/5z2J05.gif

How did you do that?

Are these the primary suggested parts to consider debugging?
- #16=Refrigerator overload and start relay Part #: W10189190 Substitution:
WPW10189190 $45.17
- #17=Refrigerator run capacitor Part #: 2264017 Substitution: WPW10662129
$10.39
- #28=Refrigerator compressor assembly Part #: W10183575 Substitution:
W10233961 $358.40

Is it even possible for a homeowner to replace the compressor #28?

Those are them. The cap is the easiest, cheapest, and most likely to be
bad. "Easy" in the sense of removing & replacing. Testing for bad is
not real easy, but doable.

The overload/relay is probably just plugged onto 2 prongs sticking out
of the compressor can. Debugging it might be a challenge.

Replacing the compressor is definitely not a homeowner job.
>

 

[Bob Engelhardt]

On 7/8/2016 9:26 PM, Danny D. wrote:

On Fri, 8 Jul 2016 18:40:55 -0500, Terry Coombs wrote:

Might be the start cap on the compressor unit - what you're calling a
"bulb" is a hermetically sealed compressor with the motor inside . The click
you're hearing is probably the overload relay .

Is this black rectangle the start cap?
http://i.cubeupload.com/aOLfge.jpg

Yes

I disconnected the spring (what is it there for?).
I disconnected the wiring.
I tried to pull the black cap outward.
I tried to pull the gray base outward.

Neither would budge.
Have you removed them before?

Is there a trick to removing them?

The spring is there to hold the cap in place. It is simply plugged into
the overload/relay body. See:
http://www.searspartsdirect.com/kenmore-refrigerator-parts/2264017/0046/106/model-10659422801/0582/0165000.html

It's not clear how the base is fastened, but you probably won't have to
remove it anyhow.

Bob

 

[Stormin Mormon]

On 7/8/2016 9:26 PM, Danny D. wrote:

On Fri, 8 Jul 2016 18:40:55 -0500, Terry Coombs wrote:

Might be the start cap on the compressor unit - what you're calling a
"bulb" is a hermetically sealed compressor with the motor inside . The click
you're hearing is probably the overload relay .

Is this black rectangle the start cap?
http://i.cubeupload.com/aOLfge.jpg

I disconnected the spring (what is it there for?).
I disconnected the wiring.
I tried to pull the black cap outward.
I tried to pull the gray base outward.

Neither would budge.
Have you removed them before?

Is there a trick to removing them?

To keep these parts from coming off.

Pull straight out from compressor. Might need to
pry with slotted screw driver. Wiggle them back
and forth while pulling.


--
..
Christopher A. Young
learn more about Jesus
.. www.lds.org
..
..

 

[Stormin Mormon]

On 7/8/2016 8:49 PM, Danny D. wrote:

In an hour or so, when the "sealed unit" has cooled down, I'll plug it back
in and report back.

As a Kenmore, you may be able to buy OEM parts, but
if it were my unit, I'd use a universal hard start
kit. Seeing as how I carry them in my vehicle and
use the universal kits at work.

--
..
Christopher A. Young
learn more about Jesus
.. www.lds.org
..
..

 

[tom]

"Danny D." <dannydiamico@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:nlq1vt$km$1@news.mixmin.net...

On Fri, 08 Jul 2016 22:54:05 -0400, Bob Engelhardt wrote:

How does this look?
http://i.cubeupload.com/5z2J05.gif

How did you do that?

I just saved the diagram you pointed me to, which also had the parts name
and prices, and I annotated the diagram with the parts name and price
using
a freeware editor (Paint.NET on Windows).

Those are them. The cap is the easiest, cheapest, and most likely to be
bad. "Easy" in the sense of removing & replacing. Testing for bad is
not real easy, but doable.

You guys gave me the confidence on the cap to use more force, and when I
did, the cap came right off (thanks!):
http://i.cubeupload.com/uHWsBd.jpg

The relay is still stuck on the compressor.
http://i.cubeupload.com/EnZxki.jpg

The cap looks good and doesn't smell burnt, but, for $10, it's not worth
testing the cap:
http://i.cubeupload.com/PiHwXk.jpg

Besides, there's ten times that in food waiting to be spoiled!
http://i.cubeupload.com/36h0Z0.jpg

Note to Oren: Those aren't huckleberries; 'dems elderberries!

The overload/relay is probably just plugged onto 2 prongs sticking out
of the compressor can. Debugging it might be a challenge.

Replacing the compressor is definitely not a homeowner job.
I was afraid of that.

So are these my basic choices?
a) capacitor, or
b) relay, or
c) new frig?

Any idea how to test the relay?

Some Digital Multimeters can measure capacitance. Can you find one that
will? Ebay maybe? Measure the capacitor - it should be close to 12 uF.

You should clean out all the dust on the black condenser coils shown in the
one picture.

You might pop the tabs on the relay (give it a good pull or pry with a
screwdriver) and inspect the contact points inside. Also check that the coil
is not open (with the DMM).

Or just take a chance and get new parts. A new refer will be costly.

 

[Stormin Mormon]

On 7/8/2016 10:40 PM, Danny D. wrote:

Is it even possible for a homeowner to replace the compressor #28?

No. Sorry, but that takes a lot of skills
that the average HO does not have.

--
..
Christopher A. Young
learn more about Jesus
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