Chip with simple program for Toy

"John Fields" <jfields@austininstruments.com> wrote in message
news:eek:rnl5119pefls5q9hgk728rd7u3r08b96c@4ax.com...
On Mon, 11 Apr 2005 13:00:45 -0700, "Bob Eldred"
nsmontassoc@yahoo.com> wrote:
Where did you get that information? Everything I see says that
anything < 1E6 is lower case, while anything >= 1e6 is upper case.

--
John Fields
Professional Circuit Designer
You are correct, I screwed up. I don't know where I got that idea.
Bob
 
phaeton wrote:

Re-teaching myself Algebra is obviously a requirement, but will I need
to teach myself anything like Calculus? Trigonometry?
You can find a lot of help on the web.

I used the search words
free algebra lesson
and found a lot of free resources.

This lesson in basic algebra, for example:
http://www.mathleague.com/help/algebra/algebra.htm

You can probably find useful books in your local library too.


--
Roger J.
 
phaeton wrote:
Maybe y'all knew this already, or maybe it's not immediately useful to
anyone. Rather sparse article too, but possibly interesting. If
posting things like this in sci.electronics.basics is a no-no or
otherwise frowned upon, kindly let me know :+:

Source: http://www.physorg.com/news3662.html
go on, I like the electronic combat systems.

--
ciao Ban
Bordighera, Italy
 
"Don Bruder" <dakidd@sonic.net> wrote in message
news:kvJ5e.13912$m31.135916@typhoon.sonic.net...
In article <xLE5e.39$gI3.6@newssvr11.news.prodigy.com>,
"Lord Garth" <LGarth@Tantalus.net> wrote:

"Don Bruder" <dakidd@sonic.net> wrote in message
news:VCC5e.13857$m31.135622@typhoon.sonic.net...
In article <ZkB5e.8912$c76.7303@newssvr11.news.prodigy.com>,
"Lord Garth" <LGarth@Tantalus.net> wrote:

"Don Bruder" <dakidd@sonic.net> wrote in message
news:h8B5e.13843$m31.135599@typhoon.sonic.net...
In article <1112986207.678226.45900@o13g2000cwo.googlegroups.com>,
"phaeton" <blahbleh666@hotmail.com> wrote:

Your accusation that i have been smoking Si? :)

Hey, I've heard that's good shit, man! Lemme know if you find
enough
to
spare so I can try some! :)

Oh man!!! Its got some epoxy and phenolic mixed in, Wait!!! I have
a 4" wafer of the pure stuff....monolithic, polished smooth. It'll
cost
you though!!!! 1,0,0 crystal alignment so it snaps straight!!!




Ooooooooooohhhhhh! Uncut! Wow! All I've ever seen was the stuff that
was
already stepped on two or three times before it got to me. Yours has
got
to be some seriously quality stuff, man!

How much ya want for just a taste?


It's like the Shroud of Turin, a priceless relic! You can look and
drool
but
you can' touch.


Awww, c'mon, man! I'm jonesin' somethin' awful here!
Bwaaahahaha!!!
 
"Jack// ani" <nospam4u_jack@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:1112901176.778444.270260@f14g2000cwb.googlegroups.com...
I think you got something wrong, or I didn't expressed it correclty!
Say you have two AC sources of 110V, now if I put them in series they
should add up to give 220V if their instantaneous phases are same(0 or
360) or if they are 180 phase out they should sum up to zero. I think
these two AC sources are just like two phases of 3-phase AC supply
which are 120degree phase apart. And they should give a voltage less
than 220V when summed up.

Any Help...Thanks
Your two single phase 110 sources in series will give 220V or 0 depending on
connection. This is the Edison or 3 wire single phase system in the 220V
case (and something useless in the other case) which is a common North
American configuration. In Europe, where it is not used, it is called a 2
phase system and if one defines an phase system as having n voltages to
neutralThere are two basic forms of a 3 phase connection -star in which
there is a common neutral or delta where there is no neutral. .You mention a
voltage of 110V to neutral so the corresponding voltage between lines is
110*root(3)=190V.

In a star connected 3 phase system the phase and line currents are the same
but line to line voltages are greater than phase to neutral voltages by the
factor of root(3). In a delta the phase and line to line voltages are the
same but the line (external) currents are root(3) times the phase (internal)
currents.

There are advantages and disadvantages to both and advantages for 3 phase
over single phase (2 or 3 wire), particularly in rotating machines and
transformers.
--
Don Kelly
dhky@peeshaw.ca
remove the urine to answer
 
"GotCoffee" <Ray.Straub@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:1113150189.596313.231140@f14g2000cwb.googlegroups.com...
If all you appliances are running off of 240 you're almost correct...
you for got to add in the 4 freezers so add 20 more amps and you should
come up with 23.76kVA
That is an upper limit - assuming all are running at the currents given and
all are at the same power factor.
--
Don Kelly
dhky@peeshaw.ca
remove the urine to answer
>
 
"phaeton" <blahbleh666@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:1113257061.653307.60580@f14g2000cwb.googlegroups.com...
Hi...

does anyone know where to get the non-hallucenogenic dielectric grease?
I'm serious now, i want to start getting things done for a change...

thanks
From the organic zinc oxide mine!
 
"jason" <cheanglong@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:1113265261.262177.194620@f14g2000cwb.googlegroups.com...
Thank you Garth
It is my honour to have learnt so much from you
:)
Thanks a lot and wish you good luck

rgds and thanks
Jason
You're welcome Jason, I hope you continue to study and in your own
time, help others as well...

Take care,

Jon
 
In article <8EI6e.1035$VA3.558@newssvr30.news.prodigy.com>,
"Lord Garth" <LGarth@Tantalus.net> wrote:

"phaeton" <blahbleh666@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:1113257061.653307.60580@f14g2000cwb.googlegroups.com...
Hi...

does anyone know where to get the non-hallucenogenic dielectric grease?
I'm serious now, i want to start getting things done for a change...

thanks


From the organic zinc oxide mine!
Yeah, but that makes your nose turn stark white... Dead giveaway you
been snortin' the stuff. The Man can see it for blocks.

--
Don Bruder - dakidd@sonic.net - New Email policy in effect as of Feb. 21, 2004.
Short form: I'm trashing EVERY E-mail that doesn't contain a password in the
subject unless it comes from a "whitelisted" (pre-approved by me) address.
See <http://www.sonic.net/~dakidd/main/contact.html> for full details.
 
"mjohnson" <crvmp3@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:1113239692.719907.106580@l41g2000cwc.googlegroups.com...
I thought up an idea to hookup a timer to my garage door to ensure
that it is closed by 10pm each night. Since I have zero electronics
experience I figured this might be a good project to learn some basic
skill with for fun. I picked up a couple of Forest M. Mims books but
realized quickly I'm over my head as to now to decide what circuits I
would need; but, I didn't want to give up too easily and I'm hoping
folks here would enjoy helping me out.

The first phase of project as I envisioned it would include:
1) a timer
2) the garage door transmitter
3) photo sensor to determine if the door was up or down

The McGyver in me wanted to buy an inexpensive battery operated travel
alarm clock for the timer piece thinking that I wouldn't have to
construct a timer and interface. My thought was to tap the buzzer
leads to determine when the timer went off to actuate the "closer"
circuit. Otherwise, there is an example of building a 24 hour timer in
the Mims book that I could use.

Before getting to far into things my initial questions are:
1) could I use the travel alarm clock as described?
2) how do I interface the timer (either bought or homebuilt) to the
switch on the garage door transmitter?

For question #2 I assume that I can carefully unsolder the push button
on the remote transmitter and wire it to some sort of transistor type
switch or relay. Could someone describe some possibilities and hold I
might actually get it connected?

As far as the door open/close sensor goes I'm assuming it's straight
forward and that it would interface to the circuit with via an AND
gate. I'll look into that later.

Anyway, thanks for your time and your responses....

Mark.

Providing there is nothing in the way when it is being closed - eg. car,
child etc. You could get a 240V/24h plug-in timer, Bunnings sell 2 of these
for $10, connect to a 12V transformer, $15 from an electrical wholesaler and
get a 12V ac relay. Connect your N.O. contacts across the manual button and
presto!

Cheers.
 
"Don Bruder" <dakidd@sonic.net> wrote in message
news:DMJ6e.14230$m31.138341@typhoon.sonic.net...
In article <8EI6e.1035$VA3.558@newssvr30.news.prodigy.com>,
"Lord Garth" <LGarth@Tantalus.net> wrote:

"phaeton" <blahbleh666@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:1113257061.653307.60580@f14g2000cwb.googlegroups.com...
Hi...

does anyone know where to get the non-hallucenogenic dielectric
grease?
I'm serious now, i want to start getting things done for a change...

thanks


From the organic zinc oxide mine!



Yeah, but that makes your nose turn stark white... Dead giveaway you
been snortin' the stuff. The Man can see it for blocks.
Oops! He wants dielectric grease, not thermal grease....South America,
they make the REAL stuff there!
 
"aman" <aman.bindra@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:1113315526.843753.171830@g14g2000cwa.googlegroups.com...
Get a transformer with appropriate DC output voltage (5/9/12 anything).
Then calculate resistor you have to hook up in series depending on DC
output voltage and forward drop of LED which is around 1.3V. Then you
are all set.


Randy2...@msn.com wrote:
Hi, Let me start by saying that I know very little about
electronics,but I would like to know how to hook up 8 white leds to
120
volt ac. Is as simple as going to Radio Shack and buying a
transformer?
If so what size transformer will I need to get? Thank You,Randy
LEDs are not the best of diodes...when the AC reverses polarity, it will be
bad news. You will need to connect the LEDs in inverse parallel which
means + to - and - to + so that at least one LED is lit on each half cycle
of the AC line or you need to install a protection diode that essentially
lops off one half cycle.

The way you connect the LED is important as well. They can all be in series
or in parallel or some combination. The forward voltage drop of the LEDs
all add if the LEDs are all in series. Lets say each LED drops an average
of
3 volts when lit. 8 lamps in series would drop 24 volts plus the minimal
..6 volt drop of the protection diode plus the drop across your limit
resistor.
You wouldn't have enough voltage.

The answer is to make several smaller series strings, each with their own
limit resistor and connect these in series with the protection diode.

I suggest you move this question to alt.binaries.schematics.electronic
because
that is where people can post a picture with the wiring.

What tools do you have for electronic work?
 
In article <1113337735.737696.234600@z14g2000cwz.googlegroups.com>,
"phaeton" <blahbleh666@hotmail.com> wrote:

Hey you guys....

Is there such a thing as a Monkey Emitting Diode? I flip the power on
and within about a minute i'm buried to my waist in miniature tie-dyed
monkeys.
Uh-oh... He's found one of the few remaining Grateful Dead-batteries and
hooked it to an LED...

--
Don Bruder - dakidd@sonic.net - New Email policy in effect as of Feb. 21, 2004.
Short form: I'm trashing EVERY E-mail that doesn't contain a password in the
subject unless it comes from a "whitelisted" (pre-approved by me) address.
See <http://www.sonic.net/~dakidd/main/contact.html> for full details.
 
"Don Bruder" <dakidd@sonic.net> wrote in message
news:07Z6e.14365$m31.139041@typhoon.sonic.net...
In article <1113337735.737696.234600@z14g2000cwz.googlegroups.com>,
"phaeton" <blahbleh666@hotmail.com> wrote:

Hey you guys....

Is there such a thing as a Monkey Emitting Diode? I flip the power on
and within about a minute i'm buried to my waist in miniature tie-dyed
monkeys.


Uh-oh... He's found one of the few remaining Grateful Dead-batteries and
hooked it to an LED...
"The White is riding backwards....go ask Alice!"

The Rolling Stones are proof that drugs don't always kill.
 
<greenman_11_11@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:1113356821.415507.52620@f14g2000cwb.googlegroups.com...
Hello,

For a project, I need to switch 5V DC through one of eight different
resistors using the digital outputs of a small USB data acuisition
device. I'm thinking of using a 74LS138 3 to 8 line decoder. Will this
work? I need the resistance of the chip to be 50 Ohms or less, as
anything higher will affect the project. I've come up with a design
using a relay network, but if there is a better way to do it with a
multiplexer chip, I really wnat to go that route. The resistances are
50-300 Ohms, and the 5 VDC will be coming from USB power. Thanx.

gm
No, the 138 is not going to work for you. The 138 has active low outputs
so the output is one of eight low also, TTL is a current sinking logic
family so the 74LS138 will sink current to ground far more effectively
than it can source 'something near' 5 volts as an output. You could
use the 4022 counter since it has decoded outputs that are active high.
It sounds to me like you really want a switch like the 4066. This old
part has an on resistance of about 80 ohms. Worse would be the 4067
which has a 125 ohm on resistance. There are much better analog
switches but these are in surface mount packages and only one switch per:

http://www.fairchildsemi.com/ds/FS%2FFSA1156.pdf
or
http://www.fairchildsemi.com/ds/FS%2FFSA4157.pdf

Watch the power supply on these to insure they will operate on 5 volts,
Have the type of switch configuration you need and have TTL compatible
inputs. The two links above are very low resistance devices... .9 ohms
and 1 ohm respectively. The first is a SPST N.O. switch while the second
is a SPDT. Either will operate on a 5 volts supply. Be aware of the
current
limitations through each switch.
 
On Mon, 11 Apr 2005 13:00:45 -0700, "Bob Eldred"
<nsmontassoc@yahoo.com> wrote:

"Lord Garth" <LGarth@Tantalus.net> wrote in message
news:Imn5e.2902$3z3.1010@newssvr12.news.prodigy.com...

"John Fields" <jfields@austininstruments.com> wrote in message
news:gbbb51pm40sg0pbqtenpv88dv8kesg840a@4ax.com...
On 7 Apr 2005 14:43:43 -0700, george_holland222@hotmail.com (george)
wrote:

Hi,

I would like to know the Kva for the following appliances.

4 freezers at 5 amps each

3 chiller units at 3 amps each

2 chillers at 35 amps each.

I do not know if they are resistive or conductive(if that is necessary
for the answer)

Would the answer be 99 * 240 /1000 = 23.76??

Hope you can help.

---
It's not "conductive", it's "reactive", but if you're taking the
ratings from the nameplates and you're running the appliances on 240V
mains then, yes, it's 23.76 kVA,

--
John Fields
Professional Circuit Designer

Notice that John write kVA as opposed to your Kva...John is right so write
the units that way.

The units should be written all upper case, KVA. The convention is that for
units above unity, the prefix is caps; e.g., K for Kilo, M for Mega, etc.
For units less than one, the convention is to use lower case; e.g., m for
milli, u (mu) for micro, etc.
---
Where did you get that information? Everything I see says that
anything < 1E6 is lower case, while anything >= 1e6 is upper case.

--
John Fields
Professional Circuit Designer
 
"phaeton" <blahbleh666@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:1113367707.479165.80440@o13g2000cwo.googlegroups.com...
Hello again,

I've recently built a small guitar practice amp circuit found here:

http://www.generalguitargadgets.com/richardo/practiceamp/lm386.gif

I've seen generalguitargadgets.com mentioned in ths ng before, and
there are a few players here, i see. I'm betting that someone has come
across and possibly built this circuit themselves, or that it's simple
enough (and probably generic enough) that most of you can look at it
and understand it :) (i'm still working on understanding *how* things
work as a whole, myself).

Anyways, it soldered it up and it works. I've put it together exactly
how it is in the diagram, except that for the output i've got it
driving a 40W 6"x9" 4-ohm speaker instead of headphones. It's
surprisingly loud for being 1/2W- not earth shaking, but you have to
raise your voice to talk over it. Not expecting stellar sound quality,
yet the distorted guitar tones are pretty good for what it is- probably
better than most really small, solid state practice amps.

However, speaking of harmonic distortion, there is a LOT of it. It's
great for rocking out (Toni Iommi In A Box!) but i can't clean it up at
all. There is no volume or gain control for the circuit, so it relies
on the guitar's volume knob for net output. Turning down from the
guitar will reduce the distortion just a little bit, but it's still
very present all the way down to "0". There is a noticeable change in
overall volume by toggling the switch (between pins 8 and 1) but the
relative level of distortion doesn't change. The guitar i'm using is a
stratocaster with stock, passive singlecoils, and i'm not using any
sort of effect pedal or preamp with it. Just guitar-->cord-->amp.

Distortion is great, and desireable for some guitar applications, but
seeing how this OpAmp was possibly created with Walkmen, Discmen and
other small audio circuits (Cheap T.V.s?) in mind (or not), is this
level of distortion sound excessive? Or does it sound as if i may
have overheated something whilst soldering? (I'm getting better, but
i'm not perfect yet). Or have i overlooked something re: speaker type
and compatibility? (I won't lie, it was less than $10 and it's targeted
at the piss-poor car audio market).

Any thoughts or direction are appreciated. I apologize that this is so
wordy and long-winded. I pared it down as much as i could, but
articulation is not one of my strengths either :-/

-phaeton
Okay, take a look at the datasheet:
http://cache.national.com/ds/LM/LM386.pdf

The part is not a high performer but the -4 version can output 1 watt of
power
although that was into a 32 ohm load with a 16 volt supply. Using a lower
impedance speaker isn't going to help.

Looking further, they show a .2% THD at a paltry 1/8 watt output.

Take note that power amps usually have a voltage gain of less than 1, they
are
designed to deliver large currents to the speaker for power. There are
other
designs that might serve you better though most of what I find is toob
based.





The Total Harmonic Distortion is 10% ... quite poor.
 
"Bill Bowden" <wrongaddress@att.net> wrote in message news:1113370569.871971.25540@l41g2000cwc.googlegroups.com...
You could use a 2.7K, 5 watt resistor to
connect the LEDs directly to the 120VAC line.
Put 4 LEDs in series, and the other 4 LEDs
in series the opposite way in parallel with the first.
Like the drawing below if it shows up right.

(+) (-)
|----LED---LED----LED---LED----| 2.7K 5 watt
120VAC-| |-----/\/\/\-------120VAC
|----LED---LED----LED---LED----|
(-) (+)

-Bill
The kids going to hurt himself like this....best to let him use a transformer.
 
On 07 Apr 2005 19:07:15 GMT, Roger Johansson wrote:

BobG wrote:

Can someone sum up the top couple of rules of algebra for him? How
about something like: 'An equation has an expression on each side of
the equal sign. To solve the equation for any of the variables, you
need to get that variable over to the left side of the equal sign. To
eliminate a variable on one side, multiply both sides of the equation
by the inverse of that variable. This doesnt change the equality,
because you are multiplying both sides by the same number.' Is this
the necessary and sufficient information needed to solve ohms law for
3 variables?

I can add some to your text above.

You can do anything to an equation as long as you do it to both sides
equally, the equation is still valid.
(an exception is dividing by zero, which gives meaningless results)

The methods you can use to isolate one variable on one side are
addition, subtraction, multiplication, division, inverting, squaring,
square root, substitution, etc..

Somebody who does not know these methods should take some time to learn
basic algebra, especially equation solving.
And it's so cheap to do these days.

http://www.sosmath.cfom
--
Best Regards,
Mike
 
phaeton wrote:

I've recently built a small guitar practice amp circuit found here:
http://www.generalguitargadgets.com/richardo/practiceamp/lm386.gif

However, speaking of harmonic distortion, there is a LOT of it. It's
What kind of distortion are you hearing, describe the sound please.

Distortion is great, and desireable for some guitar applications, but
seeing how this OpAmp was possibly created with Walkmen, Discmen and
other small audio circuits (Cheap T.V.s?) in mind (or not), is this
level of distortion sound excessive?
That input circuit may not be the best for guitar.
You need to give the guitar a load which it is suited for.

Put a 500k - 1M resistor from the guitar output to ground. Before C4.

You may need a preamp stage before this power amp to get better sound.
Look up buffer stages, booster circuits, input stages for guitar
effects boxes.

To get a soft limiting stage before this power amp, consider a diode
limiting stage, or a cmos unbuffered logic gate, a jfet stage, etc..



--
Roger J.
 

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