Chip with simple program for Toy

[Doug]

phaeton wrote:

Snip

car battery on a concrete surface

I've heard this one from a lot of people, but in each case i've asked
why that would happen.

snip

I always thought this was B.S. but I've never had an otherwise healthy
car battery and properly calibrated concrete surface that i could spare
for a day or so to try it out. I could be wrong....

My understanding is that the idea goes back to the era when batteries had
wooden cases. The concrete surface would draw moisture to the batteries.
Since lead acid batteries are wet inside anyway they must of been lined
someway. ON the otherhand it most likely has always been BS.

 

[Bullwinkle Jones]

phaeton wrote:
<snip>

I lurk quite a bit here, and just had to thank all you guys for a very
amusing thread. I caught myself chuckling a few times.

Oh, and by the way, I soldered some paxil and ate some monolithic
capacitors, and now I'm not feeling so happy..... :S

--
Bullwinkle Jones

 

[Wayne Farmer]

"js5895" <JoshTmp@nycap.rr.com> wrote in message
news:1112760564.180299.140220@g14g2000cwa.googlegroups.com...

Hi,

I'm studying electrical, what's the best way to remember the P.I.R.E.
wheel.

Here's a non-algebra method of deriving the 12 equations of the P.I.R.E
wheel from just 2 "triangle" diagrams. So, if you can remember the two
triangle diagrams, you can quickly come up with the whole wheel.

First, there's the P = IE triangle:

P
------
I | E

By covering up either P, I, or E with your finger, what remains will remind
you of the formula for what you covered up:

P (covered) = I * E
I (covered) = P / E
E (covered) = P / I

For the remaining 9 formulas of the wheel, start with the E = IR triangle:

E
-----
I | R

By covering up either E, I, or R with your finger, what remains will remind
you of the formula for what you covered up:

E (covered) = I * R
I (covered) = E / R
R (covered) = E / I

Now take the same E = IR triangle, and multiply both the top and left side
by I. You now get:

E * I
-----------
I * I | R

Because P = E * I (from the first triangle), and I * I = I^2 (that is, I
squared), you can rewrite this as:

P
---------
I^2 | R

By covering up either P, I^2, or R with your finger, what remains will
remind you of the formula for what you covered up:

P (covered ) = I^2 * R
I^2 (covered) = P / R, so I = square root of (P / R)
R (covered) = P / I^2

Now go back to the E = IR triangle, but this time multiply both the top and
left side by E. This time you get:

E*E
---------
E*I | R

This is the same as:

E^2
----------
P | R

By covering up either E^2, P, or R with your finger, what remains will
remind you of the formula for what you covered up:

E^2 (covered) = P * R, so E = square root of (P * R)
P (covered) = E^2 / R
R (covered) = E^2 / P

You've now developed all 12 equations of the P.I.R.E. wheel.

--- Wayne

 

[John Fields]

On 8 Apr 2005 19:58:54 -0700, mowhoong@hotmail.com (mowhoong) wrote:

Hi John.
What kind of Downhole equipment is? you will expect the solder tin melt when it
reach 187 C. do you mean the electronic circuit board in the downhole ?

---
http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&q=downhole+temperature+pressure

--
John Fields
Professional Circuit Designer

 

[Jonathan Kirwan]

On 7 Apr 2005 14:38:06 -0700, "SklettTheNewb" <SteveKlett@gmail.com>
wrote:

I have created a simple light sensing circuit using 2 voltage dividers
and a comparator. Basically, high resistance and the output from
comparator is high.

snip

I would be interested in any ideas that you guys might have.

I just noticed this schematic when looking for other information:

http://circuitos.tripod.cl/schem/r15.gif

It looks as though it may be interesting to your application, if I
understand it to be a "blinking LED" that also "senses light" and
works off of a 1.5V AAA battery.

Jon

 

[JazzMan]

Doug wrote:

phaeton wrote:

Snip

car battery on a concrete surface

I've heard this one from a lot of people, but in each case i've asked
why that would happen.

snip

I always thought this was B.S. but I've never had an otherwise healthy
car battery and properly calibrated concrete surface that i could spare
for a day or so to try it out. I could be wrong....

My understanding is that the idea goes back to the era when batteries had
wooden cases. The concrete surface would draw moisture to the batteries.
Since lead acid batteries are wet inside anyway they must of been lined
someway. ON the otherhand it most likely has always been BS.

The old batteries were lined with an asphaltic/tar coating.
The wood still had moisture/electrolyte soaked into it and
was partially conductive. When set on the ground there was
enough conductivity to allow the battery to discharge
over time. With a modern battery that's clean that wouldn't
be a problem at all, witness the metal racks that batteries
are commonly stored on at battery stores.

That's what I remember reading at one time, anyway...

JazzMan
--
**********************************************************
Please reply to jsavage"at"airmail.net.
Curse those darned bulk e-mailers!
**********************************************************
"Rats and roaches live by competition under the laws of
supply and demand. It is the privilege of human beings to
live under the laws of justice and mercy." - Wendell Berry
**********************************************************

 

[Bob Eldred]

<bakechad@ameritech.net> wrote in message
news:1112991007.039095.50210@l41g2000cwc.googlegroups.com...

I am new to electronics and am trying to wire a LED to light up when a
12V fan is on. I understand about using a resistor inline with a LED
that has a typical voltage of less than 12V.

My question is: "if I use a 12V LED like this


http://www.radioshack.com/product.asp?catalog%5Fname=CTLG&category%5Fname=CTLG%5F011%5F006%5F001%5F000&product%5Fid=276%2D084#

Do I need to use a resistor in this situation?

Thanks

Pay attention to this very complicated answer: NO! No resister is needed.
Ready made lamps like this already have the resistor included inside and are
rated for the required voltage, in this case 12VDC. There are versions of
these lamps that have a diode and resistor for 120VAC, directly, no external
components.
Bob

 

[Lord Garth]

"Bullwinkle Jones" <bullwinkle_01@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:jzK5e.931855$Xk.40339@pd7tw3no...

phaeton wrote:
snip

I lurk quite a bit here, and just had to thank all you guys for a very
amusing thread. I caught myself chuckling a few times.

Oh, and by the way, I soldered some paxil and ate some monolithic
capacitors, and now I'm not feeling so happy..... :S

--
Bullwinkle Jones

Ha! Wait until nature calls!!!!

 

[Bob Eldred]

"Lessie" <lessie@btinternet.com> wrote in message
news:7c3b95d1.0504071600.53d89316@posting.google.com...

The schematic concerned is at the end of the microchip
document on microchip serial programming
http://ww1.microchip.com/downloads/en/AppNotes/91013b.pdf

The circuit generates VPP for the programming phase. D1 is
the reference of 12.7V and Q2 forms a negative feedback
with the opamp. This part I do understand. However, Q2 is
strange, what does it do? It seems that it will be in a
cut out state because base will be higher than emitter by
0.6V due to Q2 ?

These transistors form a complimentary-symmetry emitter follower output
stage for the op-amp. The purpose is to increase the current capability of
the amplifier output. It can both source and sink current, the NPN pulling
high and the PNP pulling low. This is a linear, analog amplifier circuit.
The overall amplifier has unity gain and delivers the voltage of the zener
references. These voltages are controlled, on and off by the controller. The
circuit is drawn funny with the PNP on top making it harder to understand.
Normally this circuit is drawn with the NPN on top and the PNP on the bottom
and the two emitters connected together. Redraw it and it will become
obvious.
Bob

 

[Lord Garth]

<kolotun@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:1113049966.004365.52640@o13g2000cwo.googlegroups.com...

Robert Baer wrote:
kolotun@gmail.com wrote:
I would appreciate your opinions about the following device:

"Smart Tweezers LCR RCL RLC Meter Digital MultiMeter SMD"

I found on eBay. Looks like an interesting concept but is it as
good as
the seller tells?

Without a link, to look and evaluate????
Forgeddit!


http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=25412&item=7506323975

There was already a discussion about this tool some weeks ago. Best I can
say is that
if it is that useful, others will be making them soon. I think it looks
useful but I like
to see one first hand so I might see the construction quality or lack
thereof.

 

[Lord Garth]

"jason" <cheanglong@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:1113025264.931774.140320@g14g2000cwa.googlegroups.com...

Hi garth

Thank you
That is really a helpful explanation
I learnt about parallel LC tank only. I wonder what physics that lies
behind the series LC tank to make the max current to flow to the rest
of oscillator circuit without keeping most current in the LC tank(like
in paralle)

By the wayI tried to email you but it failed.
Is your mail box full?


Thank you so much for the help
Will write again if there is any arising doubts :0
cheers

rgds and thanks
jason

 

[Lord Garth]

"jason" <cheanglong@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:1113064360.083257.59790@z14g2000cwz.googlegroups.com...

anything?

I'm trying to figure out how to explain it...

I think you see that in your series resonant LC the Xl and Xc cancel
leaving only the R term as the impedance of the LC combination.

There is no added R to the series resonant LC so we are left with
the ESR of the cap and the resistance of the coil wire. Both of these
are really low so Z is consequentially low. Since the series resonant LC
does not feed back to itself until the loop through the active component
is complete, the current will not (can not) circulate within itself, as it
is
not yet a complete circuit.

This is bit like asking why glass is transparent. The best answer seems
to be that there is no reason it shouldn't be.

 

[John Fields]

On Sat, 09 Apr 2005 16:13:59 GMT, Rich Grise <richgrise@example.net>
wrote:

On Fri, 08 Apr 2005 14:39:16 -0700, Lathe_Biosas wrote:
Fritz Schlunder wrote:
"Lathe_Biosas" <lathe_biosas@hotmail.com> wrote in message

Greetings Lathe Biosas.

The 74F outputs 3.3 Volts, apologize again for the mistaken
specification.

The 74F outputs a TTL high, which is a very weak pullup to _about_
3.3 volts.


Okay looks good except for Terminal 5. If you expect the input
threshold to
be within specification, and only want the NC7SZ157 to ouput a
maximum
voltage of 3.3V, then Terminal 5 should be hooked to a 3.3V supply
(presumably the same power supply for CMOS Chip C).

No, that's not what he wants. He wants to drive a CMOS input from
either a FTTL output or another CMOS output. The chip to use is
74HCT157 (or one in that family) - HCMOS with TTL-compatible inputs,
which are also compatible with CMOS, as it happens. Please don't
confuse the newbie with threshold voltages.

All my circuit is connected to 5 Volts and GND I will try to convert the
+5 Volts to add an extra 3.3 Volts line

Forget about 3.3 volts. You have a 5V supply, use 5V chips and let
the thresholds take care of themselves - the chip designers already
did that bit of homework.

Would this function as follows?

Terminal 6 HIGH --> CMOS Chip A would be connected to CMOS Chip C
Terminal 6 LOW --> TTL 74F Chip B would be connected to CMOS Chip C

Yeah that is how it would function. Realize however that "connected"
...
are both producing logical outputs while the NC7SZ157 is feeding the

But as someone else mentioned, the NC7SZ is in some kind of SMT package -
the 74HCT series at least is in a package that you can _see_! ;-)

---
According to what the OP asked for:

help to switch between two signal lines that are connected as follows?


LINE 1: CMOS Chip A -------
\
SWITCHING AD7510 ---- CMOS Chip C
/
LINE 2: TTL Chip B -------


An aditional TTL Chip D would control the switching of AD7510

all he needs is this, where the gates are the four NANDs in any flavor
of bipolar '00:


CMOS IN>---------A _
Y--+ +5V
TTL SW>--+---+---B | |
| | | [10k]
A B +--A _ |
_ Y--+-->CMOS OUT
Y +--B
| |
+-----A _ |
Y--+
TTL IN>----------B



this,where the gates are the four NANDs in an HCT00,


CMOS IN>---------A _
Y--+
TTL SW>--+---+---B |
| | |
A B +--A _
_ Y---->CMOS OUT
Y +--B
| |
+-----A _ |
Y--+
TTL IN>----------B



or this, where the gates are the four NANDs in an HC00.

CMOS IN>--------------A _
Y--+
TTL SW>--+----+---+---B |
| | | |
[10k] A B +--A _
| _ Y---->CMOS OUT
+5V>-----+ Y +--B
| | |
[10k] +-----A _ |
| Y--+
TTL IN>--+------------B


--
John Fields
Professional Circuit Designer

 

[John Larkin]

On Sat, 09 Apr 2005 03:43:44 GMT, "Bob Eldred" <nsmontassoc@yahoo.com>
wrote:

"John Larkin" <jjSNIPlarkin@highTHISlandPLEASEtechnology.XXX> wrote in
message news:bhie515gc9n9lf1m10juetul1n0e842ffq@4ax.com...
On 7 Apr 2005 11:03:49 -0700, "Jack// ani" <nospam4u_jack@yahoo.com
wrote:

Hi there,

In 3-phase AC wiring, if phase to neutral voltage is 110V, then why is
phase to phase voltage 220? I know phase difference between any two
phases differ by 120 degree, so they should add up to give something
less than 220V! It should sum up to give 220V if the phase difference
were 0 degree or 360degree!

Thanks


One common but bizarre US wiring practice is to have a 240 volt
line-to-line delta three-phase system in which one side of the
triangle is center-tapped and is neutral. So 120 single-phase is
available for regular outlets, 240 single-phase is available for
things that need it, and 240 line-to-line is available for three phase
loads. That's fairly common in small commercial buildings. The leg
opposite the neutral is call the "bitch leg" or the "stinger."

John

I can't see how that can be a delta. I think what you have described is a
six phase "Y", center neutral as usual. It's 120 Volts out any leg and 240
Volt center tapped any leg to it's stinger. And, 208 Volts leg to leg. It's
also 120 Volts from any leg to the adjacent stinger. It's not all that
bizarre and can be created from any three phase system with a transformer.
Bob

What I described is this:


C
/ \
/ \
/ \
/ \
/ \
/ \
/ \
/ \
/ \
/ \
/ (gnd) \
/ | \
A------------N------------B
| | |
| | |
120 N 120



John

 

[Bob Eldred]

"John Larkin" <jjSNIPlarkin@highTHISlandPLEASEtechnology.XXX> wrote in
message newsc5g51dq554au92781i64ffmr6olg1v7en@4ax.com...

On Sat, 09 Apr 2005 03:43:44 GMT, "Bob Eldred" <nsmontassoc@yahoo.com
wrote:


"John Larkin" <jjSNIPlarkin@highTHISlandPLEASEtechnology.XXX> wrote in
message news:bhie515gc9n9lf1m10juetul1n0e842ffq@4ax.com...
On 7 Apr 2005 11:03:49 -0700, "Jack// ani" <nospam4u_jack@yahoo.com
wrote:

Hi there,

In 3-phase AC wiring, if phase to neutral voltage is 110V, then why is
phase to phase voltage 220? I know phase difference between any two
phases differ by 120 degree, so they should add up to give something
less than 220V! It should sum up to give 220V if the phase difference
were 0 degree or 360degree!

Thanks


One common but bizarre US wiring practice is to have a 240 volt
line-to-line delta three-phase system in which one side of the
triangle is center-tapped and is neutral. So 120 single-phase is
available for regular outlets, 240 single-phase is available for
things that need it, and 240 line-to-line is available for three phase
loads. That's fairly common in small commercial buildings. The leg
opposite the neutral is call the "bitch leg" or the "stinger."

John

I can't see how that can be a delta. I think what you have described is a
six phase "Y", center neutral as usual. It's 120 Volts out any leg and
240
Volt center tapped any leg to it's stinger. And, 208 Volts leg to leg.
It's
also 120 Volts from any leg to the adjacent stinger. It's not all that
bizarre and can be created from any three phase system with a
transformer.
Bob



What I described is this:


C
/ \
/ \
/ \
/ \
/ \
/ \
/ \
/ \
/ \
/ \
/ (gnd) \
/ | \
A------------N------------B
| | |
| | |
120 N 120



John

Why would anybody do that? What is the voltage from A to C? A to N?, What
is the relation of N to ground. Clearly this kind of a bastard connection
would be prone to gross unbalance or to parasitic voltages on the neutral.
If its 240V leg to leg, with N in the center of one leg, what is N to B for?
What is the voltage B to C? Furthermore if its 240 Volts three phase on all
legs, what equipment uses it, most are 208? Since 120 Volts is only
available from one leg with a neutral how is power distributed in a building
say to lighting or to other 120 Volt circuits maintaining some semblance of
balance between the phases. I'm not saying you have never seen this but I
never have and it can't be very common.
Bob

 

[John Larkin]

On Sat, 09 Apr 2005 18:34:02 GMT, "Bob Eldred" <nsmontassoc@yahoo.com>
wrote:

"John Larkin" <jjSNIPlarkin@highTHISlandPLEASEtechnology.XXX> wrote in
message newsc5g51dq554au92781i64ffmr6olg1v7en@4ax.com...
On Sat, 09 Apr 2005 03:43:44 GMT, "Bob Eldred" <nsmontassoc@yahoo.com
wrote:


"John Larkin" <jjSNIPlarkin@highTHISlandPLEASEtechnology.XXX> wrote in
message news:bhie515gc9n9lf1m10juetul1n0e842ffq@4ax.com...
On 7 Apr 2005 11:03:49 -0700, "Jack// ani" <nospam4u_jack@yahoo.com
wrote:

Hi there,

In 3-phase AC wiring, if phase to neutral voltage is 110V, then why is
phase to phase voltage 220? I know phase difference between any two
phases differ by 120 degree, so they should add up to give something
less than 220V! It should sum up to give 220V if the phase difference
were 0 degree or 360degree!

Thanks


One common but bizarre US wiring practice is to have a 240 volt
line-to-line delta three-phase system in which one side of the
triangle is center-tapped and is neutral. So 120 single-phase is
available for regular outlets, 240 single-phase is available for
things that need it, and 240 line-to-line is available for three phase
loads. That's fairly common in small commercial buildings. The leg
opposite the neutral is call the "bitch leg" or the "stinger."

John

I can't see how that can be a delta. I think what you have described is a
six phase "Y", center neutral as usual. It's 120 Volts out any leg and
240
Volt center tapped any leg to it's stinger. And, 208 Volts leg to leg.
It's
also 120 Volts from any leg to the adjacent stinger. It's not all that
bizarre and can be created from any three phase system with a
transformer.
Bob



What I described is this:


C
/ \
/ \
/ \
/ \
/ \
/ \
/ \
/ \
/ \
/ \
/ (gnd) \
/ | \
A------------N------------B
| | |
| | |
120 N 120



John


Why would anybody do that? What is the voltage from A to C? A to N?, What
is the relation of N to ground. Clearly this kind of a bastard connection
would be prone to gross unbalance or to parasitic voltages on the neutral.
If its 240V leg to leg, with N in the center of one leg, what is N to B for?
What is the voltage B to C? Furthermore if its 240 Volts three phase on all
legs, what equipment uses it, most are 208? Since 120 Volts is only
available from one leg with a neutral how is power distributed in a building
say to lighting or to other 120 Volt circuits maintaining some semblance of
balance between the phases. I'm not saying you have never seen this but I
never have and it can't be very common.
Bob

Google "three phase stinger" or some such.

John

 

[Larry Brasfield]

<dewdrops@2die4.com> wrote in message
news:1112763002.323979.24920@z14g2000cwz.googlegroups.com...

i hope somebody can help me. i bought a doerr pump at a garage sale the
other day. they guy tol dme it had never been used but tis a little
old. it has a strange plug almost looks like a 240 volt. but the pump
says that its 115v. i know very little about motors! when i connect it
to my outlet with some wires.. it makes a humming noise and starts to
heat up. the motor is defineitly not spinning. im pretty sure the pump
works, im just doing something wrong. any ideas? the following is on
the pump patent:3311293 insul class a 5.4 A 60HZ 1725 rpm 1/4 hp mod no
0522v103c(?)186 single phase mtr ref 50156aa733 fr h487. thanks for
your help!

I've not looked up your motor, but suggest this:

Be sure that your motor is not supposed to be driven
from 3 phase power. Giving single phase power to
such a device is a recipe for nothing good and maybe
a ruined motor. That plug may well be intended for
a 3 phase connection. (The "single phase mtr" you
quote suggests otherwise, but a 1/4 horsepower
motor should not need an unusual plug just to get
single phase 115 VAC.)

If you become convinced it is really a single phase
motor, see if there is a "starter capacitor" on the motor.
This device, when present, is often concealed in a little
hump that breaks the more rounded outline of the
motor housing. It may have gone bad with age. One
symptom of its failure is failure to start rotating along
with some buzzing and excess heating. (However, such
motors generally have an overload cutout switch that
will click in an out during the stall.)

--
--Larry Brasfield
email: donotspam_larry_brasfield@hotmail.com
Above views may belong only to me.

 

[Rich Grise]

On Sat, 09 Apr 2005 12:27:51 -0500, John Fields wrote:

LINE 1: CMOS Chip A -------
\
SWITCHING AD7510 ---- CMOS Chip C
/
LINE 2: TTL Chip B -------

An aditional TTL Chip D would control the switching of AD7510

all he needs is this, where the gates are the four NANDs in any flavor of
bipolar '00:

[way cool circuits snipped]

Good One!

Thanks!
Rich

 

[Rich Grise]

On Fri, 08 Apr 2005 23:56:35 +0000, Lord Garth wrote:

"Rich Grise" <richgrise@example.net> wrote in message
newsan.2005.04.08.23.18.34.70040@example.net...
On Thu, 07 Apr 2005 09:57:02 -0700, GotCoffee wrote:

How about using the timer on an automatic coffee pot. The power
supplied
to the heating element can be used. If hooked up properly, you can
get woke up a hot cup of coffee

Yeah, and set up a hot plate with some bacon, to get that nice aroma!
This would need a cutoff timer, of course, so it doesn't burn.


Mmmm, night old unrefrigerated bacon!!!! See you in the *burpppp!*
doctors office!

OK, then. Put a microphone next to the rooster. In the morning, when
the rooster crows, the sound is picked up by the microphone, amplified,
and detected, preferably by tuning-eye tubes or LED bar graphs - an
analysis of the spectrum of the rooster's crow should help minimize
false triggering. The proper spectrum causes your DSP to output an
active signal, which is inverted turning off the NPN transistor, which
de-energizes the solenoid electromagnet that's been holding the actuator
steelie at standby. Don't forget the reverse diode! The steelie falls
into the aquarium fish net, which is attached to the lid of your Igloo
Playmate Cooler, which you have cleverly prearranged to keep the bacon
refrigerated overnight. The resulting mechanical action releases the
bacon into the pan, triggering the catwhisker microswitch that starts
the timer relay on the hot plate burner.

Perfectly healthy bacon!

Cheers!
Rich

 

[Rich Grise]

On Fri, 08 Apr 2005 23:59:05 +0000, Lord Garth wrote:

"Rich Grise" <richgrise@example.net> wrote in message
On Wed, 06 Apr 2005 00:39:18 +0000, Lord Garth wrote:
....
Geez! I never needed such noise to awaken! What the heck knocked
you out so hard? The ticking of a mechanical clock keeps me awake.

Beer. %-}

Well that explains it! I've got next to zero alcohol tolerance, I can
feel less than
an inch of wine cooler. Those are maybe 5% by volume.

Yikes! You must be a cheap date! ;-)

So, when you have your inch of wine cooler, do you find the buzz pleasant,
and simply refrain from adding wine cooler, because it's good enough
already?

I'm one of the ones that gets addicted to anything that makes me feel
better. And if one drink makes me feel this good, what will two do? ;-)

Cheers! (irony intended ;-) )
Rich