Chip with simple program for Toy

[John Fields]

On Sat, 09 Apr 2005 21:08:31 GMT, Rich Grise <richgrise@example.net>
wrote:

---
Censorship of the way cool is everywhere!!!
---

Good One!

Thanks!

---
Y'e'r' welcome.

--
John Fields
Professional Circuit Designer

 

[petrus bitbyter]

<bakechad@ameritech.net> schreef in bericht
news:1112991007.039095.50210@l41g2000cwc.googlegroups.com...

I am new to electronics and am trying to wire a LED to light up when a
12V fan is on. I understand about using a resistor inline with a LED
that has a typical voltage of less than 12V.

My question is: "if I use a 12V LED like this

http://www.radioshack.com/product.asp?catalog%5Fname=CTLG&category%5Fname=CTLG%5F011%5F006%5F001%5F000&product%5Fid=276%2D084#

Do I need to use a resistor in this situation?

Thanks

Checking out the URL you provided, I found this component to have a build in
680Ohm resistor already. So you can connect it parallel to the 12V fan. Be
sure to connect it in the right direction. You may blow it it you connect it
in reverse.

petrus bitbyter

 

[Michael A. Terrell]

Lord Garth wrote:

I have two 16MB M-Disk ICs plugged into two ICOP PC-104 cards.
They work very well on these essentially 386-40 computers. I've
even put Win 3.11 on them with a ram disk but later returned to a
DOS only environment.

What I want to know is if any of you guys ever connected a CF card
to the IDE port and used DOS to format it into a proper HD structure?
The result is easily loads more storage for the dollar than an M-Disk.
Note the M-Disk is in a 600 mil DIP and plugs in as any JEDEC byte wide
device would. The BIOS on the ICOP is set to boot this socket so
having a CF on the IDE port means no special BIOS options are needed.

No, my only experience was installing Embedded NT and the custom
software in telemetry equipment using the 40 MB part on 586 (Cyrix)
based PC104 boards.

--
Former professional electron wrangler.

Michael A. Terrell
Central Florida

 

[Lord Garth]

"Rich Grise" <richgrise@example.net> wrote in message
newsan.2005.04.09.21.46.35.709408@example.net...

On Fri, 08 Apr 2005 23:59:05 +0000, Lord Garth wrote:
"Rich Grise" <richgrise@example.net> wrote in message
On Wed, 06 Apr 2005 00:39:18 +0000, Lord Garth wrote:
...
Geez! I never needed such noise to awaken! What the heck knocked
you out so hard? The ticking of a mechanical clock keeps me awake.

Beer. %-}

Well that explains it! I've got next to zero alcohol tolerance, I can
feel less than
an inch of wine cooler. Those are maybe 5% by volume.

Yikes! You must be a cheap date! ;-)

So, when you have your inch of wine cooler, do you find the buzz pleasant,
and simply refrain from adding wine cooler, because it's good enough
already?

I'm one of the ones that gets addicted to anything that makes me feel
better. And if one drink makes me feel this good, what will two do? ;-)

Cheers! (irony intended ;-) )
Rich

Yeah, I'm usually the DD simply because I won't miss not having alcohol.
The only time I ever got falling down drunk, I was at home at my sisters
wedding reception. I did it with champagne. I was 16 then and I still
don't
like champagne now 33 years later.

As to whether I find it pleasant...I find it odd to be numb on my upper lip
and the back of my head. I don't get sick or hung over, I'd have to say
that I really don't care to be buzzed. Damn near everybody has trouble
believing it but it is true, I've can't hold my alcohol! For me 2 caps of
Old #7 to a can of coke is plenty.

I think, based on your bacon cooler machine, that we need to rename you
Rich 'Rube' Grise!

 

[Lord Garth]

<wade_h@saber.net> wrote in message
news:1113089916.625215.320880@f14g2000cwb.googlegroups.com...

Bob Eldred wrote:
snip
It's still common in the US where houses are mixed with small motor
installations. That unexpected 208-to-neutral is(was) a problem on
water-well controls when you needed 120v for the control-circuit.
WAde H

Around here, all delta circuits are being replaced with a wye configuration.
The utility has standardized on this...then all the other power utilities
came
on the scene so who knows !

 

[Bullwinkle Jones]

Lord Garth wrote:

"Bullwinkle Jones" <bullwinkle_01@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:jzK5e.931855$Xk.40339@pd7tw3no...
phaeton wrote:
snip

I lurk quite a bit here, and just had to thank all you guys for a
very amusing thread. I caught myself chuckling a few times.

Oh, and by the way, I soldered some paxil and ate some monolithic
capacitors, and now I'm not feeling so happy..... :S

--
Bullwinkle Jones

Ha! Wait until nature calls!!!!

Phew! I'm glad I got that all over with... It went everywhere it did :-]

These wire-wound resistors are much easier on the stomach, and you wouldn't
believe how much easier Prozac solders compared to Paxil... What a
difference.

 

[Lord Garth]

"Michael A. Terrell" <mike.terrell@earthlink.net> wrote in message
news:42586B30.81D1D7B@earthlink.net...

Lord Garth wrote:

I have two 16MB M-Disk ICs plugged into two ICOP PC-104 cards.
They work very well on these essentially 386-40 computers. I've
even put Win 3.11 on them with a ram disk but later returned to a
DOS only environment.

What I want to know is if any of you guys ever connected a CF card
to the IDE port and used DOS to format it into a proper HD structure?
The result is easily loads more storage for the dollar than an M-Disk.
Note the M-Disk is in a 600 mil DIP and plugs in as any JEDEC byte wide
device would. The BIOS on the ICOP is set to boot this socket so
having a CF on the IDE port means no special BIOS options are needed.


No, my only experience was installing Embedded NT and the custom
software in telemetry equipment using the 40 MB part on 586 (Cyrix)
based PC104 boards.

Having worked at Cyrix, I shudder when their CPU is mentioned....

The damn chip was huge and therefore costly, it ran an easy 30 degrees F
hotter than Intel and their attitude toward known bugs was "fuck them,
let 'em buy a new chip." At the time, ECS was the only company that
modified their boards to work with Cyrix. I wonder just why National
bought them? I have a few Cyrix dice here in the museum.

Though these guys were founder by Sevin Rosen Group, it wasn't one
eighth the company that other Sevin Rosen ventures were.

 

[John Fields]

On 9 Apr 2005 17:39:13 -0700, snbaer@msn.com wrote:

I am new to the newsgroups, so please let me know if I am not
following some
'written or unwritten' rules about posting. I posted this to
sci.electronics.design and thought I would try this also.
I am tasked with evaluating the feasablility of having an
upconverter designed. The requirements are not clear yet, but the
design will probably need to convert a 10-100 mhz sinewave to some L
band frequency. The output will need to be gated on with an externally
supplied signal that has programmable output amplitude, and will
support most 'positive-logic' families. The gate signal will be 50ns to
1mS. The IF input will be CW and linear-sweep type waveforms.
We are open to suggestions concerning off-the-shelf type
solutions, as well as custom design.
Also, we have been bitten in the past by 'out-of-house' designs
that just don't seem to work as advertised. Any suggestions? Is there
such a thing as a contract based upon a working prototype? Am I
dreaming, or is there a way to guarantee a contractor or consultant
delivers as promised?

---
Yes. Have us do the design!

Email me if you're interested.

--
John Fields
Professional Circuit Designer

 

[Gerhard]

kolotun@gmail.com schreef:

I would appreciate your opinions about the following device:

"Smart Tweezers LCR RCL RLC Meter Digital MultiMeter SMD"

I found on eBay. Looks like an interesting concept but is it as good as
the seller tells?

I bought one. It is a nice peace of equipment, except for the jog dial
button. Left and right movement are ok, but when pressing it the result
is completely unpredictable. Therefore it is impossible to set up the
instrument. And when you eventually get back to the measurement mode,
you don't know how it is set up.
I tried to contact the manufacturer, but got no response until now.

http://www.siborg.com/smarttweezers/ST_Canada_2.htm

Best regards,

Gerhard

 

[Michael A. Terrell]

Lord Garth wrote:

"Rich Grise" <richgrise@example.net> wrote in message
newsan.2005.04.09.21.46.35.709408@example.net...
On Fri, 08 Apr 2005 23:59:05 +0000, Lord Garth wrote:
"Rich Grise" <richgrise@example.net> wrote in message
On Wed, 06 Apr 2005 00:39:18 +0000, Lord Garth wrote:
...
Geez! I never needed such noise to awaken! What the heck knocked
you out so hard? The ticking of a mechanical clock keeps me awake.

Beer. %-}

Well that explains it! I've got next to zero alcohol tolerance, I can
feel less than
an inch of wine cooler. Those are maybe 5% by volume.

Yikes! You must be a cheap date! ;-)

So, when you have your inch of wine cooler, do you find the buzz pleasant,
and simply refrain from adding wine cooler, because it's good enough
already?

I'm one of the ones that gets addicted to anything that makes me feel
better. And if one drink makes me feel this good, what will two do? ;-)

Cheers! (irony intended ;-) )
Rich


Yeah, I'm usually the DD simply because I won't miss not having alcohol.
The only time I ever got falling down drunk, I was at home at my sisters
wedding reception. I did it with champagne. I was 16 then and I still
don't
like champagne now 33 years later.

As to whether I find it pleasant...I find it odd to be numb on my upper lip
and the back of my head. I don't get sick or hung over, I'd have to say
that I really don't care to be buzzed. Damn near everybody has trouble
believing it but it is true, I've can't hold my alcohol! For me 2 caps of
Old #7 to a can of coke is plenty.

I think, based on your bacon cooler machine, that we need to rename you
Rich 'Rube' Grise!

Or" Cold grease" in honor of the bacon. ;-)
--
Former professional electron wrangler.

Michael A. Terrell
Central Florida

 

[Lord Garth]

"jason" <cheanglong@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:1113184520.143752.222850@l41g2000cwc.googlegroups.com...

Hi Garth

Thank you so much
I learnt so much from you and other kind people up there
So that means for parallel LC , there is a existing loop within itself.
Therefore, it will keep the current in the parallel LC tank rather than
let it flow to the active circuit?

Yes, and it will decay over time due to losses within the components.

For parallel LC tank, the gain of the active circuit must be greater
than 1. Then the initial loop gain must be greater than
1(theoritically, in practical is at least 2)

For series LC tank, what is the condition, do you know?

Thank you

Sorry, I don't know this one but I would guess that a gain of 2 is

a practical minimum here as well.

 

[John Smith]

" Be sure to connect it in the right direction. You may blow it it you
connect it in reverse."

Why? Surely no current will flow, as the diode part of LED comes into play.
What's going to blow it?

 

[petrus bitbyter]

"John Smith" <bill.gates@microsoft.com> schreef in bericht
news:d3ddcg$6gk$1@newstree.wise.edt.ericsson.se...

" Be sure to connect it in the right direction. You may blow it it you
connect it in reverse."

Why? Surely no current will flow, as the diode part of LED comes into
play.
What's going to blow it?


Most LEDs can handle a maximum reverse voltage of 5V. So unless some

precautions are taken, the LED wil get 12V reverse voltage which it cannot
stand. Precautions may be a antiparallel diode or even a second LED
antiparallel to the first. As I did not see this or any other provision
mentioned in the specifications I advise to stay on the safe side.

petrus bitbyter

 

[Andrew Holme]

SklettTheNewb wrote:

I'm trying to understand the basic LM239 comparator. I have read
several sites about them, looked at samples, read datasheet, etc, etc
and I still am not getting logical results from my simulations.

Here is the test circuit that I made using CircuitMaker, there are 2
version where I switched the reference/input legs
http://www.pmddirect.com/temp/comparator_a.gif
http://www.pmddirect.com/temp/comparator_b.gif

You will see in those images that the output voltages are either 15.8m
(millivolt?) or 21p (I have no idea what that means)

The reference and input voltages are 6v and 3v and I have tried
flipping them, I never get output voltage of +9v (my supply to the
comparator)

I would really appreciate a tip what I've done wrong. I'm sure it's
simple, but 2 hours now and I can't find it.

Thanks for any help,
Steve

Try connecting the other end of R4 to +9V instead of ground.

Look at the internal schematic on the LM339 datasheet. It has an
"open-collector" output. It can pull the output pin down to ground, it
can't pull up.

Presumably, 21p means pico-volts i.e. 21e-12

 

[Michael Redmann]

PeteS schrieb:

Let's do the actual mathematics

Assume we charge a 10uF and 1uF to 10V. The 10uF will have 100uC
(Q=CV) and the 1uF 10uC of charge. The total charge is 110uC.
Now lets stick them in series.
The first thing is to calculate the new effective capacitance =
C1*C2/(C1 + C2) = 0.909uF. A thing about series caps is the total
capacitance is always less than the smallest cap.

As Q = CV, then V = Q/C so 110uC/0.909uF = 121V (near enough).

Hi Pete

I did it by calculating the total energy stored in both capacitors which
is 5.5 mJ. The corresponding voltage with both caps in series is V = V0
* (C1+C2)/sqrt(C1*C2) after charging each cap to V0.

So, what's correct? Conservation of charge or energy?

Let's test your calculation with two equal capacitors, say 10 uF at 10
volts. If you were right voltage would be 200 uC/5 uF = 40 V ! That's
obviously wrong. Of course the correct answer is 20 V. That's the same
voltage you get using my formula.

Regards
--
Michael Redmann
"It's life, Jim, but not as we know it." (Spock)

 

[Larry Brasfield]

"aman" <aman.bindra@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:1113244002.382875.106590@f14g2000cwb.googlegroups.com...

How do Chip resistors compare to Metal/Carbon film resistors in terms
of Noise immunity and Reactance ?

You can buy metal film chip resistors and thick film
chip resistors. They generally have less reactance
than leaded resistors. For lowest excess noise in
the presence of DC bias, metal film resistors are
still best, whether in chip or leaded form.

Apart from size does chip resistor offer any other advantages ?

When mounted, their parasitics are lower.

--
--Larry Brasfield
email: donotspam_larry_brasfield@hotmail.com
Above views may belong only to me.

 

[Bob Monsen]

On Mon, 11 Apr 2005 11:02:05 -0700, mjohnson wrote:

I thought up an idea to hookup a timer to my garage door to ensure
that it is closed by 10pm each night. Since I have zero electronics
experience I figured this might be a good project to learn some basic
skill with for fun. I picked up a couple of Forest M. Mims books but
realized quickly I'm over my head as to now to decide what circuits I
would need; but, I didn't want to give up too easily and I'm hoping
folks here would enjoy helping me out.

The first phase of project as I envisioned it would include:
1) a timer
2) the garage door transmitter
3) photo sensor to determine if the door was up or down

The McGyver in me wanted to buy an inexpensive battery operated travel
alarm clock for the timer piece thinking that I wouldn't have to
construct a timer and interface. My thought was to tap the buzzer
leads to determine when the timer went off to actuate the "closer"
circuit. Otherwise, there is an example of building a 24 hour timer in
the Mims book that I could use.

McGyver! A hero to all hobbyists...

Before getting to far into things my initial questions are:
1) could I use the travel alarm clock as described?
2) how do I interface the timer (either bought or homebuilt) to the
switch on the garage door transmitter?

Most garage door mechanisms have a manual override button. You may want to
interface to that instead of to the remote. On mine, for example, there is
a wire that runs from the unit to the button. I'm assuming the button is
normally open. Thus, you could use a little relay to short the two sides
of the wire, and thus activate the mechanism.

For question #2 I assume that
I can carefully unsolder the push button
on the remote transmitter and wire it to some sort of transistor type
switch or relay. Could someone describe some possibilities and hold I
might actually get it connected?

It's unlikely that your remote will interface properly to an electronic
alarm. You will probably have to measure the voltages and signals, and
then design some interfacing circuit. If you make the measurements, and
post the results, I'm sure somebody will step up to help you with the
design.

As far as the door open/close sensor goes I'm assuming it's straight
forward and that it would interface to the circuit with via an AND gate.
I'll look into that later.

Depending on the type of door, you could use a little opto-interrupter,
like they use in printers to detect paper. Alternately, some kind of
physical switch, even a wire that closes across two contacts, would work.

Anyway, thanks for your time and your responses....

Mark.

Sounds like an interesting project. Good luck with it.

----
Regards
Bob Monsen

 

[Bob Eldred]

"Lord Garth" <LGarth@Tantalus.net> wrote in message
news:Imn5e.2902$3z3.1010@newssvr12.news.prodigy.com...

"John Fields" <jfields@austininstruments.com> wrote in message
news:gbbb51pm40sg0pbqtenpv88dv8kesg840a@4ax.com...
On 7 Apr 2005 14:43:43 -0700, george_holland222@hotmail.com (george)
wrote:

Hi,

I would like to know the Kva for the following appliances.

4 freezers at 5 amps each

3 chiller units at 3 amps each

2 chillers at 35 amps each.

I do not know if they are resistive or conductive(if that is necessary
for the answer)

Would the answer be 99 * 240 /1000 = 23.76??

Hope you can help.

---
It's not "conductive", it's "reactive", but if you're taking the
ratings from the nameplates and you're running the appliances on 240V
mains then, yes, it's 23.76 kVA,

--
John Fields
Professional Circuit Designer

Notice that John write kVA as opposed to your Kva...John is right so write
the units that way.

The units should be written all upper case, KVA. The convention is that for
units above unity, the prefix is caps; e.g., K for Kilo, M for Mega, etc.
For units less than one, the convention is to use lower case; e.g., m for
milli, u (mu) for micro, etc.
Bob

 

[JeB]

On 11 Apr 2005 11:02:05 -0700, "mjohnson" <crvmp3@hotmail.com> wrote:

I thought up an idea to hookup a timer to my garage door to ensure
that it is closed by 10pm each night. Since I have zero electronics

I'd imagine you might get by with a lamp timer in parellel with the
wired button in the garage.

 

[Michael Black]

"aman" (aman.bindra@gmail.com) writes:

Can anybody please give me the difference between Bipolar and Non-polar
capacitors ?

The first are polarized, the second are not.

It has everything to do with getting sufficient capacitance into
a small enough package. For larger values, electrolytics are really
the only means of doing that. But electrolytics by the construction
are polarized.

For most places electrolytics are used (because of a need for higher
capacitance), polarized capacitors are not a problem. Either they
are filtering power supply lines where they are seeing pretty much
a single polarity signal, or they are carrying AC where one terminal
is clearly more positive than the other.

Rare is the case where high values of capacitance are needed and
they must be non-polarized. But for those few occasions they can
manufacture electrolytics so they are not polarized, and there you
go. In effect non-polarized electrolytics are the equivalent of
two electrolytics in series inside the package:

---||-||---
+ - +
which of course can be emulated by putting two discrete electrolytics
in series with the proper polarity (and remembering that it will be
half the capacitance).

Note that most capacitors are "non-polarized". But since they don't
come in polarized versions, since the construction doesn't make them
polarized, they don't need to be referred to as "non-polarized".
We are talking about ceramic, paper, polystyrene and any other type
of capacitor except for electrolytics and tantalums. YOu will also
find that it's rare to find these types of capacitors in anything
much larger than 1uF or so.

Michael