Chip with simple program for Toy

[Rich Grise]

On Fri, 08 Apr 2005 19:34:32 +0000, Lord Garth wrote:

"phaeton" <blahbleh666@hotmail.com> wrote in message
Lord Garth says:
Don't sweat it!

Don't sweat what? The battery? The speaker? The asking questions? Your
accusation that i have been smoking Si?

Don Bruder says:
Nothing of any significance at the level of "zoom" you're talking.

Oh I know.... any effect would be completely negligible, particularly
for this application. The clumping and aligning is what i was
visualizing, but i'm sure that the electrons would get pulled out of
this arrangement just the same when I threw the switch and turned the
circuit on.

I thought it was an interesting question


Smoking Si--> burning silicon based electronic components but that was
from another day when (you) we were joking with the OP of that thread. I
though most would understand the slightly obscure jest. But then I though
that was directed to Rich as it followed on of his replies.

Huh? What? I just got here! ;-)

To the OP of this thread, "Don't sweat it" means that it is okay to let
the battery hang from the speaker magnet. I've done that myself and it
cause no problems.

I was going to say, since the case of the battery is clearly steel, the
magnetic field doesn't even get through it into the battery's guts anyway.

Cheers!
Rich

 

[Rich Grise]

On Wed, 06 Apr 2005 06:51:07 +0000, Don Bruder wrote:

Here's your first dose:
Set up your meter for high ohms - 20K or thereabouts should be fine. Once
you've gotten to the leads of the capacitor, use a screwdriver with a
well-imsulated handle to short the leads of the capacitor together. Get
yourself mentally prepared for a miniature lightning bolt to go off when
the screwdriver makes contact. Eyeball the capacitor - Does it have a
polarity marking? (Usually a plus or a minus sign, possibly a line of
them, situated near one of the leads) If so, observe polarity - red/plus
to plus, black/minus to either minus or the other lead from the capacitor
- and touch the probes to the capacitor lead. If the cap isn't totally
dead, you should see almost zero ohms at first, then rising to a higher
value.

A motor capacitor would be non-polar; they run on AC, you know. ;-)

Cheers!
Rich

 

[Rich Grise]

On Tue, 05 Apr 2005 23:08:25 -0700, dewdrops wrote:

i took out what i think is the capacitor. it has two wires going into it
and one other place where a wire can be connected. the back of it
(opposite the wires) is open and there is a metal disk that has a screw
righ tin the middle (variable?). like i said i have no idea what im
talking about lol. im not seeing any units of capacitence or anything
really. it does say pat 2585704 & others. also says klixon and mee26rx-368
each terminal is numberd 1-3 thanks for your help! id hate to see an
expensive pump (that i got for $20 ) go to waste!

A klixon is a thermal cutout switch. That's your motor overheating
protection.

But, according to your other post, you got it going. Congrats!

For the vane, try googling for vacuum pump parts, vane pumps, that sort
of thing. You might have to make one, but from the vane pumps I've seen,
that wouldn't be very hard.

Good Luck!
Rich

 

[Rich Grise]

On Wed, 06 Apr 2005 05:29:49 +0000, Lord Garth wrote:

dewdrops@2die4.com> wrote in message
news:1112763002.323979.24920@z14g2000cwz.googlegroups.com...
i hope somebody can help me. i bought a doerr pump at a garage sale the
other day. they guy tol dme it had never been used but tis a little old.
it has a strange plug almost looks like a 240 volt. but the pump says
that its 115v. i know very little about motors! when i connect it to my
outlet with some wires.. it makes a humming noise and starts to heat up.
the motor is defineitly not spinning. im pretty sure the pump works, im
just doing something wrong. any ideas? the following is on the pump
patent:3311293 insul class a 5.4 A 60HZ 1725 rpm 1/4 hp mod no
0522v103c(?)186 single phase mtr ref 50156aa733 fr h487. thanks for your
help!


The motor might have a bad start capacitor. However, you have not said
what type of motor is on the pump. The motor could be a universal type or
an inductive type. The universal type has brushes and a commutator ring.
That would be the type with a capacitor for startup.

Uh, actually, it's the other way around. The universal type doesn't need
a capacitor - the induction type does.

Cheers!
Rich

 

[Rich Grise]

On Thu, 07 Apr 2005 16:09:04 -0700, js5895 wrote:

Thanks, I know basic high school algebra, but I just never understood how
to apply it to real world problems. I keep reading my electrical book on
that it says "Current is directly proportional to voltage" and "Current is
inversely proportional to resistance" and then I look at the
P.I.R.E. wheel, trying to remember the whole wheel just by remembering
those statements and some algebra. I'm looking at it like a puzzle and
noticing some patterns like, that the power formulas you have to square or
square root to find an answer, so I can see that proportional and
inversely proportional part. I'm trying to figure out how they got
something like this "I = E/R" from that statement, looking at that
formula, thinking "I" is proportional to "E" and "I" is inversely
proportional "R", and I'm thinking why did they divide?. I'm racking my
mind and I know this is a simple basic DC formula compared to other
electrical formulas like, the AC ones.

At this point, it might help to look at the water pipe model. Voltage,
or "electromotive force" is pressure, current is the flow rate, and
resistance is how hard you have to push to get the water to go through
the pipe. A skinny pipe has more resistance than a fat one.

The model breaks down when the pipe breaks, and all of your water
falls out on the ground - that's the opposite of what happens with
a broken wire; short circuit to "ground" would have that effect. ;-)

Cheers!
Rich

 

[Rich Grise]

On Thu, 07 Apr 2005 09:57:02 -0700, GotCoffee wrote:

How about using the timer on an automatic coffee pot. The power supplied
to the heating element can be used. If hooked up properly, you can get
woke up a hot cup of coffee

Yeah, and set up a hot plate with some bacon, to get that nice aroma! This
would need a cutoff timer, of course, so it doesn't burn.

Cheers!
Rich

 

[Rich Grise]

On Wed, 06 Apr 2005 00:39:18 +0000, Lord Garth wrote:

"Rich Grise" <richgrise@example.net> wrote in message
On Tue, 05 Apr 2005 18:34:04 +0000, Michael Black wrote:
"Lord Garth" (LGarth@Tantalus.net) writes:
"Thomas Vogel" <Tommi-Vogel@gmx.de> wrote in message
I want to construct a circuit which switch a relay by a alarm
clock. Know anyone where I can find a plan in the internet or in a
book or in a magazine?
....
I did it to one, but it was really simple because I used a clock
radio that was fairly old, and the clock was on a separate board from
the actual radio. That made it real simple to find the wire that
turned on the radio, and use it to turn on a relay.
...
I did this once with a "modern" digital alarm clock with a piezo
beeper. I just picked off the pulses to the beeper, and triggered a
retriggerable one-shot to turn on my large alarm, which was just a MVB
and big speaker. Actually, it was two MVBs, so I got a two-tone blare
that really annoyed the neighbors. ;-)

Geez! I never needed such noise to awaken! What the heck knocked you
out so hard? The ticking of a mechanical clock keeps me awake.

Beer. %-}

Cheers!
Rich

 

[Rich Grise]

On Thu, 07 Apr 2005 13:17:41 +0000, Kevin Aylward wrote:

Michael Redmann wrote:
Kevin Aylward schrieb:

Bob wrote:
It doesn't make sense that the series voltage would be anything other
than 2*V.

Indeed.

Bob and Kevin: you're absolutely right! After replying on Pete's post I
was in doubt if this strange effect could really be true. It can't.

But what's wrong with Pete's and my computation. Neither conservation of
charge nor of energy lead to the correct answer.

Of course they do. One just has to know what one is modelling!

The root cause of the confusion is that the series calculation of
capacitance is completely meaningless. I have no idea what Pete was trying
to do there.

Moving a cap and connecting one of its ends to a potential does nothing to
the charge on it or voltage across it. Hint: the voltage on a cap don't
want to change. It will conserve both charge and energy.

But if you put a 220uF and 2200uF in series, and charge the series string
to, say, 11 volts, you'd get 10 and 1, right? Just an ordinary capacitive
voltage divider.

Thanks,
Rich

 

[Lord Garth]

"Chris" <cfoley1064@yahoo.com> wrote in message news:1112997338.747719.48700@g14g2000cwa.googlegroups.com...
Slight error -- you need a series resistor with the diode to avoid
overcurrent at the LM10 output:

____ ____
.----|___|---o-|___|----------------------|<------->
| 330K | 100 .-----------------. 1N4001 To
| | | | Flasher
| | | |
| .--------o------o------------. |
| | |6 |8 7| |
| |OpAmp.--|------|-----o------o----|--------.
| | | | | | | | |
| |2 |\| | | |\| Ref | | |
.--|---o---|-\ | '---|-\ Amp 1| |200mV +|
| | | | >-' LM10 | >-----o----o ---
| o---o---|+/ .---|+/ | | -
| | |3 |/| +| |/| | | |1.5V
| | | | --- | | | |
| | | | 200mV - | | | |
| | | | Ref | | | | |
| | | '---------o-----o------o----|--------'
| | | 4| o----.
| | '----------------------------' | |
| | .-. |
| | 10K| | |
| | | | |
| | '-' |20K
| | | .-.
| '-------------------------------------o | |<---.
| | | | |
| .-. '-' |
| Sensor| | | |
| 2K to 64K| | | |
| '-' | |
| | | |
| GND GND |
'---------------------------------------------------'
created by Andy´s ASCII-Circuit v1.24.140803 Beta www.tech-chat.de

Chris, Are those connection dots between the ref amp output and the
power rails? Looks like a short across the battery to me. The 7 and 4
pin numbers are probably misplaced as well.

 

[Lord Garth]

"Don Bruder" <dakidd@sonic.net> wrote in message
news:VCC5e.13857$m31.135622@typhoon.sonic.net...

In article <ZkB5e.8912$c76.7303@newssvr11.news.prodigy.com>,
"Lord Garth" <LGarth@Tantalus.net> wrote:

"Don Bruder" <dakidd@sonic.net> wrote in message
news:h8B5e.13843$m31.135599@typhoon.sonic.net...
In article <1112986207.678226.45900@o13g2000cwo.googlegroups.com>,
"phaeton" <blahbleh666@hotmail.com> wrote:

Your accusation that i have been smoking Si?

Hey, I've heard that's good shit, man! Lemme know if you find enough
to
spare so I can try some!

Oh man!!! Its got some epoxy and phenolic mixed in, Wait!!! I have
a 4" wafer of the pure stuff....monolithic, polished smooth. It'll
cost
you though!!!! 1,0,0 crystal alignment so it snaps straight!!!




Ooooooooooohhhhhh! Uncut! Wow! All I've ever seen was the stuff that was
already stepped on two or three times before it got to me. Yours has got
to be some seriously quality stuff, man!

How much ya want for just a taste?

It's like the Shroud of Turin, a priceless relic! You can look and drool
but
you can' touch.

 

[Lord Garth]

"Rich Grise" <richgrise@example.net> wrote in message
newsan.2005.04.08.21.56.34.153703@example.net...

On Fri, 08 Apr 2005 19:34:32 +0000, Lord Garth wrote:
"phaeton" <blahbleh666@hotmail.com> wrote in message
Lord Garth says:
Don't sweat it!

Don't sweat what? The battery? The speaker? The asking questions? Your
accusation that i have been smoking Si?

Don Bruder says:
Nothing of any significance at the level of "zoom" you're talking.

Oh I know.... any effect would be completely negligible, particularly
for this application. The clumping and aligning is what i was
visualizing, but i'm sure that the electrons would get pulled out of
this arrangement just the same when I threw the switch and turned the
circuit on.

I thought it was an interesting question


Smoking Si--> burning silicon based electronic components but that was
from another day when (you) we were joking with the OP of that thread.
I
though most would understand the slightly obscure jest. But then I
though
that was directed to Rich as it followed on of his replies.

Huh? What? I just got here! ;-)

To the OP of this thread, "Don't sweat it" means that it is okay to let
the battery hang from the speaker magnet. I've done that myself and it
cause no problems.

I was going to say, since the case of the battery is clearly steel, the
magnetic field doesn't even get through it into the battery's guts anyway.

Cheers!
Rich

Your late man, you gonna have to remember from yesterday! I though
you were strangely quiet. We're just screwing around.

 

[Lord Garth]

"Rich Grise" <richgrise@example.net> wrote in message
newsan.2005.04.08.23.18.34.70040@example.net...

On Thu, 07 Apr 2005 09:57:02 -0700, GotCoffee wrote:

How about using the timer on an automatic coffee pot. The power
supplied
to the heating element can be used. If hooked up properly, you can get
woke up a hot cup of coffee

Yeah, and set up a hot plate with some bacon, to get that nice aroma! This
would need a cutoff timer, of course, so it doesn't burn.

Mmmm, night old unrefrigerated bacon!!!! See you in the *burpppp!* doctors
office!

 

[Lord Garth]

"Rich Grise" <richgrise@example.net> wrote in message
newsan.2005.04.08.23.21.20.243717@example.net...

On Wed, 06 Apr 2005 00:39:18 +0000, Lord Garth wrote:
"Rich Grise" <richgrise@example.net> wrote in message
On Tue, 05 Apr 2005 18:34:04 +0000, Michael Black wrote:
"Lord Garth" (LGarth@Tantalus.net) writes:
"Thomas Vogel" <Tommi-Vogel@gmx.de> wrote in message
I want to construct a circuit which switch a relay by a alarm
clock. Know anyone where I can find a plan in the internet or in a
book or in a magazine?
...
I did it to one, but it was really simple because I used a clock
radio that was fairly old, and the clock was on a separate board from
the actual radio. That made it real simple to find the wire that
turned on the radio, and use it to turn on a relay.
...
I did this once with a "modern" digital alarm clock with a piezo
beeper. I just picked off the pulses to the beeper, and triggered a
retriggerable one-shot to turn on my large alarm, which was just a MVB
and big speaker. Actually, it was two MVBs, so I got a two-tone blare
that really annoyed the neighbors. ;-)

Geez! I never needed such noise to awaken! What the heck knocked you
out so hard? The ticking of a mechanical clock keeps me awake.

Beer. %-}

Well that explains it! I've got next to zero alcohol tolerance, I can feel
less than
an inch of wine cooler. Those are maybe 5% by volume.

 

[Lord Garth]

"jason" <cheanglong@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:1113005119.663777.14970@z14g2000cwz.googlegroups.com...

I am sorry for my lacking in basic knowledge, why when XL and Xc cancel
, we can get 180 degree phase shift?

Also the drop across the node is low meaning the current to Rs is low?

AM I right?
Thank you Garth

Do you know the memory aid for current and voltage in reactive circuits?
The mnemonic is ELI the ICE man. ELI = in an L circuit the voltage is
ahead of the current (in a perfect world, by 90 degrees). ICE = in a C
circuit the current is ahead of the voltage ( by 90 degrees).

So there is your 180 degree shift. The definition of resonance is where
Xl = Xc a condition your circuit meets.

The drop across the node is low so the current through Rs is high. Think
of replacing the combined reactance with a resistor of value Z. Z would
be a low value so I is high for a series LC. The story is different if LC
were a parallel tank circuit. In that case the current through the tank
would
be low so the voltage across the tank would be high.

I hope that helps!

 

[Lord Garth]

"Rich Grise" <richgrise@example.net> wrote in message
newsan.2005.04.08.23.02.39.853119@example.net...

On Wed, 06 Apr 2005 05:29:49 +0000, Lord Garth wrote:


dewdrops@2die4.com> wrote in message
news:1112763002.323979.24920@z14g2000cwz.googlegroups.com...
i hope somebody can help me. i bought a doerr pump at a garage sale the
other day. they guy tol dme it had never been used but tis a little
old.
it has a strange plug almost looks like a 240 volt. but the pump says
that its 115v. i know very little about motors! when i connect it to
my
outlet with some wires.. it makes a humming noise and starts to heat
up.
the motor is defineitly not spinning. im pretty sure the pump works, im
just doing something wrong. any ideas? the following is on the pump
patent:3311293 insul class a 5.4 A 60HZ 1725 rpm 1/4 hp mod no
0522v103c(?)186 single phase mtr ref 50156aa733 fr h487. thanks for
your
help!


The motor might have a bad start capacitor. However, you have not said
what type of motor is on the pump. The motor could be a universal type
or
an inductive type. The universal type has brushes and a commutator
ring.
That would be the type with a capacitor for startup.

Uh, actually, it's the other way around. The universal type doesn't need
a capacitor - the induction type does.

Cheers!
Rich

Your right...sorry !!! You know, I just had an air compressor apart about
two months ago. The centrifugal switch near the commutator was bad.

The other compressor I had apart more recently was the one on my Ford A/C.
All together, I spent about $120 to fix my A/C. A dealer wanted over $1000
for the work. The break down was $80 for a clutchless rebuilt compressor
$30 for 6 cans of r-134a. Tools were an A/C manifold and a vacuum pump.
Various sockets and 2 hours. It'll freeze your tits off now!

The failure analysis was the gasket that sealed the compressor failed and
the
oil (but not the freon) left the system. Because there are valves on the
compressor
is why I still had freon. The now un-lubricated compressor seized and some
aluminum particles were in the expansion valve filter. The old compressor
can be repaired and is amazingly simple.

I'm ready for summer!

 

[Bob Eldred]

"Jack// ani" <nospam4u_jack@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:1112897029.222347.222440@o13g2000cwo.googlegroups.com...

Hi there,

In 3-phase AC wiring, if phase to neutral voltage is 110V, then why is
phase to phase voltage 220? I know phase difference between any two
phases differ by 120 degree, so they should add up to give something
less than 220V! It should sum up to give 220V if the phase difference
were 0 degree or 360degree!

Thanks

It's a very simple geometric relationship. If two lines or vectors are 120
degrees apart and are of equal length from their common, crossing end, the
distance between the tips of the lines is 2*sin (120/2). = 2*0.866 = 1.732.
Now, if the line lengths represents 120 volts from the center or crossing
point to the tip, the tips must be 120 * 1.732 apart = 207.8 Volts. OK
class, for homework, prove the geometric relationship. BTW it can be proven
without trigonometry.
Bob

 

[Lord Garth]

"jason" <cheanglong@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:1113012199.217502.93840@g14g2000cwa.googlegroups.com...

Hi Garth

Thank you
My understand is most current will be in the tank circuit no matter it
is series or parallel LC tank.

I think this is a point of view, whether you are looking at what happens
inside the LC or what happens when you mentally replace that LC with
a black box of impedance Z and consider the whole circuit.

We have been discussing what happens inside the LC and then applying
that to the what happens to the remainder of the circuit. Our point of
view has been shifting and this can be confusing.

In a series resonant LC, maximum current flows through LC and the rest of
the oscillator circuit.

In a parallel resonant LC, maximum current is contained within the LC tank.
Which implies that minimum current flows through the rest of the oscillator
circuit.

You've got to mentally step back and replace the resonant LC with its
resultant Z then look at the voltage across that Z

That means I am wrong?

No, its just a matter of whether your looking at the whole oscillator or
just the
LC portion alone.

In either case, the losses are made up for by the active component or the
system losses would dampen the oscillition and the circuit would ring to
a stop. A mechanical equivalent would be a cymbal on a drum set, hit it
once and it oscillates with a decreasing amplitude until it stops. Add an
active component (a drummer that adds more energy to the system) and
oscillation will continue until the input ceases, then the decay proceeds.

Thanks a lot

jason

 

[John Larkin]

On 7 Apr 2005 11:03:49 -0700, "Jack// ani" <nospam4u_jack@yahoo.com>
wrote:

Hi there,

In 3-phase AC wiring, if phase to neutral voltage is 110V, then why is
phase to phase voltage 220? I know phase difference between any two
phases differ by 120 degree, so they should add up to give something
less than 220V! It should sum up to give 220V if the phase difference
were 0 degree or 360degree!

Thanks

One common but bizarre US wiring practice is to have a 240 volt
line-to-line delta three-phase system in which one side of the
triangle is center-tapped and is neutral. So 120 single-phase is
available for regular outlets, 240 single-phase is available for
things that need it, and 240 line-to-line is available for three phase
loads. That's fairly common in small commercial buildings. The leg
opposite the neutral is call the "bitch leg" or the "stinger."

John

 

[Bob Eldred]

"John Larkin" <jjSNIPlarkin@highTHISlandPLEASEtechnology.XXX> wrote in
message news:bhie515gc9n9lf1m10juetul1n0e842ffq@4ax.com...

On 7 Apr 2005 11:03:49 -0700, "Jack// ani" <nospam4u_jack@yahoo.com
wrote:

Hi there,

In 3-phase AC wiring, if phase to neutral voltage is 110V, then why is
phase to phase voltage 220? I know phase difference between any two
phases differ by 120 degree, so they should add up to give something
less than 220V! It should sum up to give 220V if the phase difference
were 0 degree or 360degree!

Thanks


One common but bizarre US wiring practice is to have a 240 volt
line-to-line delta three-phase system in which one side of the
triangle is center-tapped and is neutral. So 120 single-phase is
available for regular outlets, 240 single-phase is available for
things that need it, and 240 line-to-line is available for three phase
loads. That's fairly common in small commercial buildings. The leg
opposite the neutral is call the "bitch leg" or the "stinger."

John

I can't see how that can be a delta. I think what you have described is a
six phase "Y", center neutral as usual. It's 120 Volts out any leg and 240
Volt center tapped any leg to it's stinger. And, 208 Volts leg to leg. It's
also 120 Volts from any leg to the adjacent stinger. It's not all that
bizarre and can be created from any three phase system with a transformer.
Bob

 

[Don Bruder]

In article <xLE5e.39$gI3.6@newssvr11.news.prodigy.com>,
"Lord Garth" <LGarth@Tantalus.net> wrote:

"Don Bruder" <dakidd@sonic.net> wrote in message
news:VCC5e.13857$m31.135622@typhoon.sonic.net...
In article <ZkB5e.8912$c76.7303@newssvr11.news.prodigy.com>,
"Lord Garth" <LGarth@Tantalus.net> wrote:

"Don Bruder" <dakidd@sonic.net> wrote in message
news:h8B5e.13843$m31.135599@typhoon.sonic.net...
In article <1112986207.678226.45900@o13g2000cwo.googlegroups.com>,
"phaeton" <blahbleh666@hotmail.com> wrote:

Your accusation that i have been smoking Si?

Hey, I've heard that's good shit, man! Lemme know if you find enough
to
spare so I can try some!

Oh man!!! Its got some epoxy and phenolic mixed in, Wait!!! I have
a 4" wafer of the pure stuff....monolithic, polished smooth. It'll
cost
you though!!!! 1,0,0 crystal alignment so it snaps straight!!!




Ooooooooooohhhhhh! Uncut! Wow! All I've ever seen was the stuff that was
already stepped on two or three times before it got to me. Yours has got
to be some seriously quality stuff, man!

How much ya want for just a taste?


It's like the Shroud of Turin, a priceless relic! You can look and drool
but
you can' touch.

Awww, c'mon, man! I'm jonesin' somethin' awful here!

--
Don Bruder - dakidd@sonic.net - New Email policy in effect as of Feb. 21, 2004.
Short form: I'm trashing EVERY E-mail that doesn't contain a password in the
subject unless it comes from a "whitelisted" (pre-approved by me) address.
See <http://www.sonic.net/~dakidd/main/contact.html> for full details.