Chip with simple program for Toy

Oct 3, 2012

On Tuesday, October 2, 2012 2:21:28 PM UTC-7, jim stone wrote:

Not being able to find a small internet radio to buy we liked, we got mobile

phone with which we link with wi-fi to a modem router, and use it as an

internet radio.

Keeping the phoned plugged into its charger all the time, we are using it to

play *all-day* background classical music through an amplifier and speakers.

Since the phone has no 'moving parts' unlike a computer, we are wondering if

this continuous playing all day of the phone is going to shorten its working

life ?

The battery may not like being plugged in forever.

Oct 3, 2012

On Tuesday, October 2, 2012 2:21:28 PM UTC-7, jim stone wrote:

Not being able to find a small internet radio to buy we liked, we got mobile

phone with which we link with wi-fi to a modem router, and use it as an

internet radio.

Keeping the phoned plugged into its charger all the time, we are using it to

play *all-day* background classical music through an amplifier and speakers.

Since the phone has no 'moving parts' unlike a computer, we are wondering if

this continuous playing all day of the phone is going to shorten its working

life ?

How much did you pay for the phone? Would it bother you greatly if it is stolen or if the battery fails to hold a charge, did you get it fairly cheap, did you buy a new mobile phone for regular use and this is an old phone from a previous cellular plan, etc.?

I used to use an old cell phone (well, it was "old" in the sense that I changed cell phone carriers) to play music from the internal microSD card for my plants in my office (a Mythbusters episode showed that plants like music), until the repetition of the songs drove *me* crazy. =)

§ńühwöŁf · Oct 3, 2012

tony sayer wrote:

In article <k4fn6h$1op$1@dont-email.me>, William Sommerwerck
grizzledgeezer@comcast.net> scribeth thus
"Tom Biasi" <tombiasi@optonline.net> wrote in message
news:506b5d4b$0$9802$607ed4bc@cv.net...
On 10/2/2012 5:21 PM, jim stone wrote:
Not being able to find a small internet radio to buy we liked,
we got a mobile phone with which we link with WiFi to a modem
router, and use it as an internet radio.
Keeping the phoned plugged into its charger all the time, we are
using it to play *all-day* background classical music through an
amplifier and speakers.
Since the phone has no "moving parts" unlike a computer, we are
wondering if this continuous playing all day of the phone is going
to shorten its working life ?
Using anything shortens its working life.
Not so. There aren't any obvious failure mechanisms in solid-state devices
(other than dopant migration in high-power output transistors).

Yes interesting that especially in high power RF transistors, 'tho I
believe in such cases its paralled emitter connections that start going
open circuit...

It's also true that most mechanical devices "like" moderate use. Letting
anything mechanical "sit" most of the time will probably cause it fail
sooner than if receives regular use.

It's now possible to build computers without moving parts (other than the
optical drives). My new computer has a solid-state "hard disk", and you
wouldn't believe how fast it boots up, or how fast programs start to run.

Indeed they do just got one, not in this machine but very fast indeed.
They still it seems fail though...

Boot times are largely a function of what gets loaded prior to showing a

"desktop". Different OS'es have different boot times. Check out Haiku
OS. I boot to a "desktop" in under a minute.

--
http://www.privacySOS.org | www.extinctioncrisis.org
www.snuhwolf.9f.com|www.savewolves.org
_____ ____ ____ __ /\_/\ __ _ ______ _____
/ __/ |/ / / / / // // . . \\ \ |\ | / __ \ \ \ __\
_\ \/ / /_/ / _ / \ / \ \| \| \ \_\ \ \__\ _\
/___/_/|_/\____/_//_/ \_@_/ \__|\__|\____/\____\_\

Phil Hobbs · Oct 19, 2012

Bill Sloman wrote:

On Oct 19, 4:00 am, Phil Hobbs
pcdhSpamMeSensel...@electrooptical.net> wrote:

<snip>

My usual use for PLLs is
demodulation rather than frequency synthesis, so DDSes are pretty much
beside the point.

Why?

Because driving them in a demodulator loop is a completely needless hassle, and won't
do as good a job when you're done. Analogue loops rock. Doing it digitally makes as
much sense as emulating an op amp using an ADC, a DAC, and an FPGA, i.e. none.

You can get inductors in 2% tolerances, and the varactors of course are
variable (and also good to +-5% to 8%), so you don't need tweaks to get
a very respectable linearity improvement. That means that you can be
more aggressive on the loop compensation, and the improved performance
is worth a lot.

But there's a great deal of manual labour tweaking each example to get
it's particular linearity respectable. Physicists have graduate
students to do that sort of labour. Engineers designing for production
can't afford them.

Not true--read what I wrote above. Inexpensive close-tolerance inductors do just
fine.

How are you liking being back in OZ? Run into Phil A. yet?

Cheers

Phil Hobbs

Ian Field · Oct 21, 2012

<etpm@whidbey.com> wrote in message
news

4r3889ndrr7sdspuv23q2n0j0ckneuu4j@4ax.com...

See this link:
http://www.extremecircuits.net/2010/06/stroboscope-uses-white-leds_17.html
for a circuit to strobe white LEDs. As I suspected, and had confirmed
here and in the above link, the persistence of the phosphor is so long
that 100 Hz is about the best you can do.

So use blue or ultrabright red.

BeeJ · Oct 21, 2012

etpm@whidbey.com> wrote in message
news4r3889ndrr7sdspuv23q2n0j0ckneuu4j@4ax.com...
See this link:
http://www.extremecircuits.net/2010/06/stroboscope-uses-white-leds_17.html
for a circuit to strobe white LEDs. As I suspected, and had confirmed
here and in the above link, the persistence of the phosphor is so long
that 100 Hz is about the best you can do.

So use blue or ultrabright red.

Is green viable? So use red + green + blue. Adjust counts to get near
white.

m II · Oct 23, 2012

-----BEGIN PGP SIGNED MESSAGE-----
Hash: SHA1

Jim Thompson wrote:

Is there a program around that is actually capable of "printing" to a
text file?

The Wimpows Generic/Text "printer" mostly results in a garbage file.

Mainly what I'm after is something that can "print" a text-mostly web
page into a text file.

...Jim Thompson

Linux has wkhtmltopdf that converts HTML to a PDF file.

There should be many free programs for Windows, too.

<http://download.cnet.com/Free-HTML-to-PDF-Converter/3000-18497_4-10691753.html>

I don't know how good the above is, but it's probably worth a try. I
like PDF 'cause you can magnify it for easier reading.

mike

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Grant · Oct 24, 2012

On Tue, 23 Oct 2012 23:11:56 -0500, "Tim Williams" <tmoranwms@charter.net> wrote:

What's Thompson on about again? That's exactly what I already do:
http://t3sl4.dnsdynamic.net/Images/ClassD_5.jpg
But then, I run my own web server. ;-)

Me too

http://grrr.id.au/image/is-this-an-oops.png

Is that a missed solder joint?

Grant.

Tim

Jim Thompson · Oct 24, 2012

On Wed, 24 Oct 2012 15:52:48 +1100, Grant <omg@grrr.id.au> wrote:

On Tue, 23 Oct 2012 23:11:56 -0500, "Tim Williams" <tmoranwms@charter.net> wrote:

What's Thompson on about again? That's exactly what I already do:
http://t3sl4.dnsdynamic.net/Images/ClassD_5.jpg
But then, I run my own web server. ;-)

Me too

http://grrr.id.au/image/is-this-an-oops.png

Is that a missed solder joint?

Grant.

Tim

Jasen Betts · Oct 24, 2012

On 2012-10-23, jim stone <tgh6h5t6tu5nzh@mail.invalid> wrote:

Have just received by post a 'Fone Storm' car charger for a Huawei Ascend
g300 phone. I wanted to check the specs to see if I had been sent the right
one for this phone.

On the box it says input DC 12v-24v. Output DC 4.2v - 10v. 500ma, max
750ma.

I always understood that tiny components could be damaged by even fairly
minor variations in voltage, so am surprised that the output can be stated
as 4.2v - 10v. It was very cheap only ÂŁ2. Would I be safer to spend more
and get the official Huawei charger?

some of these devices have a voltage that is configured by the customer,
eg: by selecting the right tip for the cable, (or by selecting the
right cable) or turning a selector screw...

I would want to see a similar voltage figure to that which is given
for the mains powered charger.

--
ââ 100% natural

JW · Oct 24, 2012

On Tue, 23 Oct 2012 22:19:05 -0700 Jim Thompson
<To-Email-Use-The-Envelope-Icon@On-My-Web-Site.com> wrote in Message id:
<igue885akjtlt5eghd9jmr3sb9teej89ln@4ax.com>:

On Wed, 24 Oct 2012 15:52:48 +1100, Grant <omg@grrr.id.au> wrote:

On Tue, 23 Oct 2012 23:11:56 -0500, "Tim Williams" <tmoranwms@charter.net> wrote:

What's Thompson on about again? That's exactly what I already do:
http://t3sl4.dnsdynamic.net/Images/ClassD_5.jpg
But then, I run my own web server. ;-)

Me too

http://grrr.id.au/image/is-this-an-oops.png

Is that a missed solder joint?

Grant.

Tim

Can you read? Or do you just spout without knowledge? What was my
question? Hobbs provided the answer.

...Jim Thompson

I know you already found a solution, but Windows Explorer will even do
FTP.

For instance, since I use Comcast and have my web storage activated:
ftp://email_address

assword@upload.comcast.net/

Then you just navigate like you normally would do, dragging, dropping, and
creating folders at will.

Woody · Oct 24, 2012

"jim stone" <tgh6h5t6tu5nzh@mail.invalid> wrote in message
news:k65oo2$5sa$1@dont-email.me...

Have just received by post a 'Fone Storm' car charger for a
Huawei Ascend g300 phone. I wanted to check the specs to see if
I had been sent the right one for this phone.

On the box it says input DC 12v-24v. Output DC 4.2v - 10v.
500ma, max 750ma.

I always understood that tiny components could be damaged by
even fairly minor variations in voltage, so am surprised that
the output can be stated as 4.2v - 10v. It was very cheap only
Ł2. Would I be safer to spend more and get the official Huawei
charger?

The Ascend uses a micro USB so it should be nominally 5V -
possibly as high as 5.2V - but 10V would almost certainly do
damage.

Get yourself a USB to micro USB cable and a car charger that has
a USB outlet (or two.) Certain to work. You can also get a USB
mains plug as well to charge at home.

--
Woody

harrogate three at ntlworld dot com

Maulkin1989 · Oct 26, 2012

responding to
http://www.electrondepot.com/electronics/need-help-in-designing-circuit-50956-.htm
, Maulkin1989 wrote:

panfilero wrote:

Hello, I just finished creating a circuit, it\'s a drum machine, but
I\'ve done the whole thing on a solderless breadboard. I was wondering
if anybody could give me any tips on how I could go about transferring
my design onto a PCB. If anyone could reccomend any software or such
that is good for this? I have a copy of PSPICE, but I\'m not sure if
that\'s mainly for simulations. I\'ve seen the "do it
yourself" kits
with the photo-resist chemicals and everything, but that seems
potentially messy and complicated. I was wondering if anyone was
familiar with the places that you send the schematic to and then they
mail you your PCB?

Thanks
Joshua

Not all CAD software work consecutively with CAM, however your best bet is

PADS which is a process I was taught at AAI Learning Center in Glendale
Arizona.
This Low tech solution will apply to the circuit board manufacturing. You will
take a Mylar and apply Rubber strips in the pattern you have the capacitors,
Resistors and Relays on the board. The process will be applied to copper
coated fiberglass. Then acetate will be applied with a photo-scoped process
etching the copper in a solution keeping only the copper applied to the board.
Feed-thru holes are a little bit harder. You may layer the underside or
sandwich the copper boards into a layered board in between the fiberglass
polyester board. The back side of the board having the same process as done to
the other side, this process repeated to the different layers. The board may
be reduced to save space and material, and preferred by the manufactured. I
know AutoCAD has this feature in its program as well as other workstation
programs. The following are a list of process software and you should do your
homework. These CAD programs may not have a CAM process which stands for
computer automated machinery.Active-Cad
Active-VHDL
Alias
ANVIL EXPRESS
Ashlar Vellum
AutoCAD
Avanti
Bentley
CADAM
CADDS
Cadence
Cadence Allegro
Cadkey
Cadmax
CADnetix
Cadstar
CALMA
CATIA
CoCreate
Computervision
Designcad 2000
HP Solid D
I-DEAS
Ironcad
Macdraft
Mentor Graphics
Microstation
Orcad
PADS
P-CAD
PDMS
PDS
PRO/E
PTC
Rhino
SDRC
Smartsketch
Solid Designer
Solid Edge
Solidworks
Step
Synopsys
Tango
Turbocad
Veribest
Verelog
VesaCAD
VHDL
VHDL Warp
View Logic
Hard copy is also a process which might be difficult so contact the software
dealer to find out which features might apply to you. I most like Bentley and
AutoCAD. These are the leaders in IBM Compatible computers. The main CAM
software may not apply to the board manufacturer .So contact a reliable
machine shop to assist you. You can work together to create the jigs you will
need in the manufacturing process. At the rubber plant I worked for used a
manufacturer in Ohio which worked with CAM. I also worked with Whites Steel a
part of Virgin Aerospace. The Fiberglass company I worked for worked with
Chinese Manufactures, and the best work for these type of plans are in the
Philippines. I wish you luck and hope you can make some money for the boards
or at least get a good inventor. By the way are you a tinkerer or just an avid
fan of electricity.
I look forward to any future contact. I may be reached through any computer
using Bitznpeezs@msn.com. Please feel free to contact me. If you are unable to
get a reply please be aware I receive 200 emails a day and can not sift
through all the junk mail. I am only on the computer 2 hours a day and answer
about 2 % of replies for information. I read about 20 to 30% of my email and
go to the next task in my day. I look forward to any futer contacts, questions
or comments.
Best Regards, Richard B. Torres
8595 Philbin Avenue, Arlanza , Arlington, Riverside County, California,
92503-2278. Majesty Village, Riverside.

Theo Markettos · Oct 26, 2012

In uk.telecom.mobile Woody <harrogate3@ntlworld.spam.com> wrote:

Get yourself a USB to micro USB cable and a car charger that has
a USB outlet (or two.) Certain to work.

Usually...

http://hackaday.com/2012/08/15/buying-cheaper-electronics-and-not-saving-money/

Theo

Cydrome Leader · Oct 31, 2012

In sci.electronics.basics George Herold <gherold@teachspin.com> wrote:

On Oct 23, 5:41?am, "jim stone" <tgh6h5t6tu5...@mail.invalid> wrote:
Have just received by post a 'Fone Storm' car charger for a Huawei Ascend
g300 phone. I wanted to check the specs to see if I had been sent the right
one for this phone.

On the box it says input DC 12v-24v. ?Output DC 4.2v - 10v. ?500ma, ?max
750ma.

I always understood that tiny components could be damaged by even fairly
minor variations in voltage, so am surprised that the output can be stated
as 4.2v - 10v. ?It was very cheap only ?2. ?Would I be safer to spend more
and get the official Huawei charger?

Hi Jim, I don't know about the particular phone. But it's certainly
possible that the phone can handle a range of DC input voltages for
charging. Is there some specification for this in the phone manual?
That might give you some peace of mind.

I've seend this dubious output rating of 4 to 10 or 4 to 9 volts on
generic garbage micro usb chargers off ebay.

they don't work right with many phones, in case you were curious.

Nov 6, 2012

On Sunday, November 4, 2012 12:49:04 PM UTC-6, Jim Thompson wrote:

In anticipation of Black Tuesday I concocted my own anesthesia...

"Black Tuesday" is this in anticipation of your celebration for Barry O'Bama?

Nov 7, 2012

On Tuesday, November 6, 2012 8:07:09 AM UTC-6, pheeh...@gmail.com wrote:

On Sunday, November 4, 2012 12:49:04 PM UTC-6, Jim Thompson wrote:

In anticipation of Black Tuesday I concocted my own anesthesia...

"Black Tuesday" is this in anticipation of your celebration for Barry O'Bama?

The a-holes must have me blocked...maybe someone can respond and they will see it? 8^)

Mark · Nov 7, 2012

Jim Thompson <To-Email-Use-The-Envelope-Icon@On-My-Web-Site.com> wrote:

I need an adapter that adapts an E11 (mini candelabra) BULB to an E12
(candelabra) socket.

All I seem to find are bass-ackwards.

Does such a thing exist?

Aluminium or copper foil?

--
Gruss, Mark

Jim Thompson · Nov 7, 2012

On 07 Nov 2012 23:22:00 GMT, Mark <mark.wolf@alumni.tu-berlin.de>
wrote:

Jim Thompson <To-Email-Use-The-Envelope-Icon@On-My-Web-Site.com> wrote:
I need an adapter that adapts an E11 (mini candelabra) BULB to an E12
(candelabra) socket.

All I seem to find are bass-ackwards.

Does such a thing exist?

Aluminium or copper foil?

Or maybe just copper wire ?

Michael A. Terrell · Nov 8, 2012

Jim Thompson wrote:

On 07 Nov 2012 23:22:00 GMT, Mark <mark.wolf@alumni.tu-berlin.de
wrote:

Jim Thompson <To-Email-Use-The-Envelope-Icon@On-My-Web-Site.com> wrote:
I need an adapter that adapts an E11 (mini candelabra) BULB to an E12
(candelabra) socket.

All I seem to find are bass-ackwards.

Does such a thing exist?

Aluminium or copper foil?

Or maybe just copper wire ?

Replace the sockets, or buy E12 based bulbs. Plenty of E12 bulbs on
Ebay.

Chip with simple program for Toy

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§ńühwöŁf

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Phil Hobbs

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Ian Field

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BeeJ

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m II

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Grant

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Jim Thompson

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JW

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Woody

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Cydrome Leader

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