Chip with simple program for Toy

"Test" <test@.nil.invalid.com> wrote in message
news:mf3fd4pqpmoi66r9g453kouh1oa9dqrj4p@4ax.com...
I am trying to use LPT port to control a small 5 V relay (Meisei ps-5). The
relay
appears to have 1.75 ohm resistance.

I connected the data pin to the + pin of the relay and ground to the gnd
pin. No
click. Voltage drops to about 2V. Then I tried with DC power supply at
4.5V
(1.5A). A nice click is audible from the relay.

(Bear with me: I am a newbie) I conclude that LPT is not suppliying enough
current (live and learn!). After googling for some time I am presented
with a new
thing that should: a transistor - as in "transistor radio".

This helpful site has a cirquit that fits the bill:
http://www.epanorama.net/circuits/parallel_output.html#relaycontrol
here is it:

Vcc
|
+------+
| __|__
Relay /^\ Diode 1N4002
Coil /---\
| |
+------+
|
| /
4.7K B |/ C
parallel port >-\/\/\/\/---| NPN Transistor: BC547A or 2N2222A
data pi |\ E
| V
|
parallel port >--------------+
ground pin |
Ground

Above need an extra power supply (Vcc). Is any way to use power (perhaps
from
multiple data pins) from the LPT port itself? One pin gives out 0-5V and a
few
milliamps. The Meisei relay I have seems to need more.
You can't drive the relay directly because, IRC the LPT port can only source
about 20mA and sink about 5 or 10.

This is why they use the above circuit with the external power.

I don't recall how much power the LPT can source total but probably not
enough for your relay.

Sure you can tie all the output pins together and hope for the best. If on
goes low then you got a direct short. You can use diodes to prevent sinking
any current but that will lower your voltage.


LPT output ---- diode ----
LPT output ---- diode ----
LPT output ---- diode ---- All tied together here
LPT output ---- diode ----

The current will basically add up.

So, suppose each output will give a max of 20mA before protection kicks in
and you have 10 pins tied together, then thats a maximum of 200mA that
you'll get. That's assuming the whole chip can output that much.. if not I
imagine you have a real chance of burining up the port.

It's pretty easy to get a wall-wart power suppose and use that with a
transistor as the circuit shows... it's also a lot safer for your parallel
port!
 
"Test" <test@.nil.invalid.com> wrote in message
news:f4dfd4179hbtu9cliljas5q5aur8reil47@4ax.com...
"Jon Slaughter" <Jon_Slaughter@Hotmail.com> wrote:


"Test" <test@.nil.invalid.com> wrote in message
news:mf3fd4pqpmoi66r9g453kouh1oa9dqrj4p@4ax.com...
I am trying to use LPT port to control a small 5 V relay (Meisei ps-5).
The
relay
appears to have 1.75 ohm resistance.

I connected the data pin to the + pin of the relay and ground to the gnd
pin. No
click. Voltage drops to about 2V. Then I tried with DC power supply at
4.5V
(1.5A). A nice click is audible from the relay.

(Bear with me: I am a newbie) I conclude that LPT is not suppliying
enough
current (live and learn!). After googling for some time I am presented
with a new
thing that should: a transistor - as in "transistor radio".

This helpful site has a cirquit that fits the bill:
http://www.epanorama.net/circuits/parallel_output.html#relaycontrol
here is it:

Vcc
|
+------+
| __|__
Relay /^\ Diode 1N4002
Coil /---\
| |
+------+
|
| /
4.7K B |/ C
parallel port >-\/\/\/\/---| NPN Transistor: BC547A or 2N2222A
data pi |\ E
| V
|
parallel port >--------------+
ground pin |
Ground

Above need an extra power supply (Vcc). Is any way to use power (perhaps
from
multiple data pins) from the LPT port itself? One pin gives out 0-5V and
a
few
milliamps. The Meisei relay I have seems to need more.


You can't drive the relay directly because, IRC the LPT port can only
source
about 20mA and sink about 5 or 10.

This is why they use the above circuit with the external power.

I don't recall how much power the LPT can source total but probably not
enough for your relay.

Sure you can tie all the output pins together and hope for the best. If on
goes low then you got a direct short. You can use diodes to prevent
sinking
any current but that will lower your voltage.


LPT output ---- diode ----
LPT output ---- diode ----
LPT output ---- diode ---- All tied together here
LPT output ---- diode ----

The current will basically add up.

So, suppose each output will give a max of 20mA before protection kicks in
and you have 10 pins tied together, then thats a maximum of 200mA that
you'll get. That's assuming the whole chip can output that much.. if not I
imagine you have a real chance of burining up the port.

It's pretty easy to get a wall-wart power suppose and use that with a
transistor as the circuit shows... it's also a lot safer for your parallel
port!


I've seen parallel port relay boxes that don't use an external power. How
do they
do it? Use low power relays?
probably...

http://www.epanorama.net/circuits/lptpower.html

Theres tones of info on using the lpt port for various applications. I'm
sure if you search google you'll find the exact info your looking for.
 
Jamie <jamie_ka1lpa_not_valid_after_ka1lpa_@charter.net> wrote in
news:y1hBk.25806$PK.14621@newsfe04.iad:

lerameur wrote:

Hello

I posted a simple circuit up on
http://www3.sympatico.ca/captoro/motor/design1.gif
I am having difficulty seperating the grounds. My final circuit is
much more complex, it may look trivial at first, but I absolutely need
to seperate the grounds. IN the simulator they are the same ground.
But my 30 v source comes from a separate circuit, therefore do not
activate the N-mosfet (no common ground). I need to figure out a way
to put 30v on the mosfet so that the rest of the circuit shown sees it
and operate the way it is showing.
I thought about adding opto couplers, but I will still have the
problem of finding 30v on the other side of the circuit to activate
the mosfets,( where the maximum volt is 24v). And no I cannot combine
the 24v and 12v.
anyone has any ideas?

thank you

K
Optical isolation.

Look for optocouplers.

Below is a good component and many like it.

http://www.supertex.com/pdf/app_notes/AN-D26.pdf

the application notes should give you some lead way.

http://webpages.charter.net/jamie_5"
I'm gettign "file not found" - I also qwent to the site and searched D26, but
that didn't work. Could you post the component name, or another search term
I could use...?

Thanks!
 
"Arnold" <aspoor@freemail.nl> wrote in message
news:9749ad9b-0212-44f9-85f5-ebdf31eceacf@y38g2000hsy.googlegroups.com...
John Fields
Arnold

Thanks for your reply. BTW, with a bipolar pulse I meant just a
single sign alternation, whereas apparently your definition is a
sequence with an arbitrary number of sign alternations. Probably
your definition is better.
I considered the impact sound of the hammer, which sounds as if the
body doesn't ring for longer than about 0.1 ms. However, that
doesn't say much about the waveform.

---news:m6dfd4d3nc0pnood2o5ld5scv0958tfd5i@4ax.com


John, I am not sure what you mean with that news message, but it
cannot be found
It worked ok for me, it refers to some waveforms on
alt.binaries.schematics.electronic
also known as abse.
Mike
 
Is there a voltage you can measure anywhere in the system? You could measure
the current being drawn by the device (by measuring the drop across the
rheostat) or you could measure the slight drop in supply voltage on the
machine side of the rheostat. Either way it is ikky.

Is there a moving part that can be hooked up to an opto coupler? This would
be a better way of doing it.

Is the panel meter designed to be put in series with the current or is the
current rating you are seeing a maximum input current if the input voltage
rating is exceeded.

Please tell me more about the system

Thanks

Bill Naylor
Electronworks.co.uk - Electronic kits for education and fun


"kayvee" <kmvgroups@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:10ba73af-446b-40ed-9942-9a28195f8ee8@m36g2000hse.googlegroups.com...
Hey everyone!

I have this machine that *should* be switching on and off at a
frequency of about 110-120HZ. It is powered by a 24DC power supply and
is controlled by a 12.5W, 100Ohm Rheostat placed in series with the
machine. It usually draws about 0.2A ~ 0.4A (fused at 0.5A).

As of now I have no way of telling what the frequency of the machine
(it is very important that it is accurate), and I plan on buying a
panel mounted frequency counter to rectify this problem... But looking
at the stats of the frequency counters I can afford out there they
don't like being given any more than 10-40mA.

Now the question is how do I hook up this frequency counter to measure
my machine without hooking it in a fashion which would give it the
full brutality of the current?

Once again, any input would be greatly appreciated and thanks again!
 
"lerameur"

Hello,

I receive a what I thin k is a Thermocouple probe with my clampmeter
I am not 100% sure how to connect it, I posted a picture of the
device:
http://www3.sympatico.ca/captoro/temperature/PDR_0120.jpg

** Yep - that is a K-type probe all right.

can someone explain to me how to plug into the meter, the clamp meter
is of K-type.

** K-type clap meters are a bit of a rarity.

Just like E-type Jaguars are today.




...... Phil
 
"amdx" <amdx@knology.net> wrote in news:3fc4d$48d7efac$18d6b40c$26484
@KNOLOGY.NET:

"Arnold" <aspoor@freemail.nl> wrote in message
news:9749ad9b-0212-44f9-85f5-ebdf31eceacf@y38g2000hsy.googlegroups.com...
John Fields
Arnold

Thanks for your reply. BTW, with a bipolar pulse I meant just a
single sign alternation, whereas apparently your definition is a
sequence with an arbitrary number of sign alternations. Probably
your definition is better.
I considered the impact sound of the hammer, which sounds as if the
body doesn't ring for longer than about 0.1 ms. However, that
doesn't say much about the waveform.

---news:m6dfd4d3nc0pnood2o5ld5scv0958tfd5i@4ax.com


John, I am not sure what you mean with that news message, but it
cannot be found

It worked ok for me, it refers to some waveforms on
alt.binaries.schematics.electronic
also known as abse.
Mike
Thank you for the clarification - it hadn't worked for me, and i also wasn't
aware that ther was a NG for posting schematics. It might be a good learning
tool ;)

- Kris
 
lerameur <lerameur@yahoo.com> wrote in
news:40e542fe-68cd-463e-b78c-47ce1ac361b9@k37g2000hsf.googlegroups.com:

On Sep 22, 2:35 pm, Kris Krieger <m...@dowmuff.in> wrote:
Jamie <jamie_ka1lpa_not_valid_after_ka1l...@charter.net> wrote [snip]

  Look for optocouplers.

Below is a good component and many like it.

http://www.supertex.com/pdf/app_notes/AN-D26.pdf

the application notes should give you some lead way.

http://webpages.charter.net/jamie_5"

I'm gettign "file not found" - I also qwent to the site and searched
D26,
but
that didn't work.  Could you post the component name, or another search
term
I could use...?

Thanks!


I just tried the 6 links, they all work well:
http://www3.sympatico.ca/captoro/motor/design1.gif
...
http://www3.sympatico.ca/captoro/motor/design6.gif


Anyhow I think I figured it out, I will try it tonight.
I am going to use my circuit as a reference point for the grounding of
my 30v gate voltage. It should work.
k
Hmm, no go her. I viewed the Source and this is it:
<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//IETF//DTD HTML 2.0//EN">
<HTML><HEAD>
<TITLE>404 Not Found</TITLE>
</HEAD><BODY>
<H1>Not Found</H1>
The requested URL /captoro/motor/design6.gif was not found on this
server.<P> <HR>
&lt;ADDRESS&gt;Apache/1.3.36 Server at www3.sympatico.ca Port 80&lt;/ADDRESS&gt;
&lt;/BODY&gt;&lt;/HTML&gt;


Well, no biggie, I was just curious to take a look.

- Kris
 
Jamie &lt;jamie_ka1lpa_not_valid_after_ka1lpa_@charter.net&gt; wrote in
news:ElUBk.17720$wr1.795@newsfe02.iad:

Kris Krieger wrote:

Jamie &lt;jamie_ka1lpa_not_valid_after_ka1lpa_@charter.net&gt; wrote in
news:y1hBk.25806$PK.14621@newsfe04.iad:


lerameur wrote:


Hello

I posted a simple circuit up on
http://www3.sympatico.ca/captoro/motor/design1.gif
I am having difficulty seperating the grounds. My final circuit is
much more complex, it may look trivial at first, but I absolutely need
to seperate the grounds. IN the simulator they are the same ground.
But my 30 v source comes from a separate circuit, therefore do not
activate the N-mosfet (no common ground). I need to figure out a way
to put 30v on the mosfet so that the rest of the circuit shown sees it
and operate the way it is showing.
I thought about adding opto couplers, but I will still have the
problem of finding 30v on the other side of the circuit to activate
the mosfets,( where the maximum volt is 24v). And no I cannot combine
the 24v and 12v.
anyone has any ideas?

thank you

K

Optical isolation.

Look for optocouplers.

Below is a good component and many like it.

http://www.supertex.com/pdf/app_notes/AN-D26.pdf

the application notes should give you some lead way.

http://webpages.charter.net/jamie_5"




I'm gettign "file not found" - I also qwent to the site and searched
D26, but that didn't work. Could you post the component name, or
another search term I could use...?

Thanks!

Your reader must have a problem with the link transposing over to the
browser.
I just checked it, it still works here.


http://webpages.charter.net/jamie_5"
I got that one, btuI see a pic of a train, a very fat woman, and something
that looks like a webcam which requires the installation of some program
that's unknown to me...

But the PDF link worked today. Maybe my cable modem is acting up - the TV
cable always gets scrambled in the afternoons.

THanks,

- Kris
 
In article &lt;qmimd4ls344f4snqim33en59ptu790kpim@4ax.com&gt;,
Test &lt;test@.nil.invalid.com&gt; wrote:
I am trying figure out how an optocoupler
(http://pdf1.alldatasheet.com/datasheet-pdf/view/2847/MOTOROLA/4N29.html) works.

Is optocoupler similar to a solid state relay?
Yes, it's similar. Usually a solid-state relay is an optocoupler
and some other stuff packaged together to make it more convenient
to use.

What should happen if I apply current going thru pins 1-&gt;2? Should resistance
drop to zero between 5 and 4?
Resistance will decrease, but not all the way to zero.

Actually what will happen is that it will allow a certain amount of
current to flow between 5 and 4. As long as you're under the limit,
it'll act like a low resistance (about 20 ohms?). The limit depends
on how much current you are feeding into 1-&gt;2. Figures 2 and 3 in the
datasheet give all the gory details. For example, if you apply 5 mA
through 1-&gt;2 ( If=5mA ) then it'll allow about 60 mA though pins 5 and 4
before it starts limiting the output current.

My goal is to use LPT port to switch stuff on and off. I have a couple ways to
achive this but I want try what works. I want to learn new stuff.
This makes sense. As long as the stuff you're switching doesn't require
more than 50-100 mA of current, then you can treat the optocoupler as
a switch. If you need more current than that, you'll need to add something
else, like a transistor.


--
Wim Lewis &lt;wiml@hhhh.org&gt;, Seattle, WA, USA. PGP keyID 27F772C1
 
"Bob"
Anon Email
I have a speaker which is rated at 100V, yet the supply voltage is
115V. The speaker works fine. What's the deal?


Hifi loudspeakers are usually rated by power and impedance.
Loudspeakers for public address systems are usually
"100volt line" types.

** The OP has a powered speaker - likely Chinese.

On the back it says 100V cos it is made for Japan or other place with that
power voltage.

Probably got it on eBay.


..... Phil
 
"Eeyore" &lt;rabbitsfriendsandrelations@hotmail.com&gt; wrote in message
news:48DACE48.3027914D@hotmail.com...
Eeyore wrote:

"jalbers@bsu.edu" wrote:

Is it safe to assume that all diodes with a glass enclosure are
germanium?

Not even remotely.

Although if you can see a 'cat's whisker' it may be quite likely.

Graham
Just out of curiosity, what's the spectral response of a germanium
photo-diode?
 
&lt;jpopelish@rica.net&gt; wrote in message
news:5ace194a-3c90-454a-ba84-d662989b4e76@c58g2000hsc.googlegroups.com...
On Sep 26, 12:05 pm, Eeyore &lt;rabbitsfriendsandrelati...@hotmail.com&gt;
wrote:
John Popelish wrote:

The spectral response goes well into the near infrared.
Here is an example:
http://www.thorlabs.com/thorcat/13800/13846-S01.pdf

Germanium's transparent to IR isn't it ? Don't they make IR lenses out
of it ?
Beyond the long wave side of the spectral response peak (where there
is not enough energy per photon to create hole-electron pairs), it
gets rapidly more tranparent for about a decade. But it is not very
transparent, even in the middle of this IR window. Usable for lenses
and filters, but not great.

See:
http://www.harricksci.com/infoserver/Optical%20Materials/Germanium.cfm

In some documentary or other it was stated that the FLIR camera lens on
police helicopters had a micron thick coating of germanium - probably vacuum
deposited.

The basic technology was adapted from military applications.
 
&lt;jalbers@bsu.edu&gt; wrote in message
news:69ed7a1f-994b-4742-b10d-0c958ea460b1@z66g2000hsc.googlegroups.com...
I want to play around with some phototransistors and am curious about
the base lead. It seems like this lead is treated as taboo . Some
sources say it's just there but you won't have to or don't need to use
it. Other sources say that it is there so that you can bias the
transistor but don't go any further.

What effect does applying a bias current have on the function of the
phototransistor? How is the characteristic curve different from a
normal transistor when it is exposed to different levels of light?
Saturation, active region, cutoff ...

Another experiment that I wanted to try is to cut the top off of a
power transistor to make a homemade "power" phototransistor or combine
it with a LED to make a homemade "power" optocoupler.

Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks
Just be careful when you cut open the power transistor, as some of them
have beryllia ceramic substrates and the dust can be hazardous. I had
thought it was extremely toxic, but the following MSDS indicates that it
is not too bad: http://www.brushwellman.com/EHS/MSDS/Z01.pdf

Paul
 
"lerameur" &lt;lerameur@yahoo.com&gt; wrote in message
news:1fd2d9c3-0337-458f-ad67-d7986b8c9465@73g2000hsx.googlegroups.com...
On Sep 26, 11:19 am, lerameur &lt;leram...@yahoo.com&gt; wrote:
On Sep 26, 10:54 am, Bob &lt;b...@mailinator.com&gt; wrote:



On Sep 26, 2:26 pm, lerameur &lt;leram...@yahoo.com&gt; wrote:

Hello,

I have a battery charger
herehttp://www3.sympatico.ca/captoro/motor/fullCircuit.gif
the circuit is in two phase:
- BAttery A and B charging BAttery C and D
- BAttery C and D charging BAttery A and B

You need to explain moe about exactly what you want this circuit to
do.

You schematic seems to have some errors, eg you seem to be missing
a resistor in series with the opto isolator near battery D and the
phototransistor side of U46 should have the collector more positive
than
then the emitter.

1) once the opto couplers are on, the 5amp fuse on battery A and B
just blows up. (it should be about 1.5amp)
short circuit somewhere...

You havn't told us what sort of batterys these are but I'm assuming
that the battery capacity is a few amp-hours or more.
From the schematic your batterys are 12volts so I'm guessing lead
acid.

If one battery is fully charged and another battery is discharged.
and the MOSFET linking them is turned fully on then tens of amps
will flow initally.

Why do you think that only 1.5amp should flow?

2) The 100 ohm resistors in the optocoupler work in real , but in the
simulation is does not.
The circuit work if I wire one phase at a time, but when the two
phases are wired, then this is where I get the fuse burning problem

Besides one of you optocouplers being the wrong way round on your
schematic
is the voltage source the same in the schematic and real life?
Is the spice model an accurate representation of your optocouplers?
If your voltage source is 12volts then 100 ohms is too low for many
types of optocouplers, the working life will be considerably
shortened.
Read the datasheet for the max recommended current.

Bob

Hi Bob,

I posted the circuit with the current showing. I also have 5 volt
coming off to the optocoupler. I tried 11v and forgot to remove it.
The 5v is coming out from a pic, cant get more then that from a micro
controller hehe.
As you can see the current is 1.3 amp, then gets divided by the two
batteries for the charging process.
Yes they are 4 sealed lead acid batteries, 12v, 7 amp/hour
I tried swapping the U46 emitter and collector but I was not getting
anything decent, if you want I can post that result.
hope I answered all your questions

thanks
K
Oups forget to post the link:
http://www3.sympatico.ca/captoro/motor/fullCircuit2.gif

===================================================================

It is still unclear what you are trying to do, but I assume you are using
multiple batteries to drive the 5 ohm load through D2-D5. But your full
circuit shows the high current path for the batteries going through 1N4148
signal diodes, which cannot handle more than about 200 mA. It appears that
the two batteries C and D are in series and they supply charging current to
batteries A and B which are sort of in parallel. I see no current
regulation or limiting other than the 5 ohm load. So you are discharging C
and D while charging A and B, and driving a 5 ohm load with about 7 volts
which will vary as the battery voltages change.

You really need to be specific about what you want to do. You may be much
better off with SPDT relays to switch the batteries from supplying current
to being charged. Use isolation diodes on each battery so only the one with
highest voltage drives the load, until it drops enough for others to share.
But you have to disconnect the battery when charging. Otherwise the higher
charging voltage will drive the load. I'm assuming that you want to be able
to drive the load with any one or all of the batteries, and select which
ones to charge.

It is really confusing to understand why you are charging one set of
batteries from another, and I don't see any load other than the 5 ohm
resistor.

Paul
 
"John Fields" &lt;jfields@austininstruments.com&gt; wrote in message
news:9lsqd45gvvae7vf8b6rpam50ml061110d2@4ax.com...
On Fri, 26 Sep 2008 15:41:12 -0700 (PDT), moizhami@gmail.com wrote:

hello sir
due to regular pop ups on my internet icannot free
download any thin please send me solution onmoizhami@yahoo.com

---
Free downloads, eh?

Wink, wink, nudge, nudge?


1. Install Google as your home page and activate their popup blockers.

2. Send your complaints to yahoo, even though they won't give a shit.

3. Stop whining. This is USENET, the last bastion of free speech on
this planet, even if you can only access it through Google.

Make use of it while you still have time.

JF
Cripes! What is it about GMAIL and Yahoo that attracts all the idiots of the
world?

Bob
--
== All google group posts are automatically deleted due to spam ==
 
"Charlie Siegrist" &lt;none@this.time&gt; wrote in message
news:ppisd41auf3u0vkplvk9bngn4s9dlh0e4p@4ax.com...
On Fri, 26 Sep 2008 17:28:34 -0700, "BobW"
nimby_GIMME_SOME_SPAM@roadrunner.com&gt; wrote:


"John Fields" &lt;jfields@austininstruments.com&gt; wrote in message
news:9lsqd45gvvae7vf8b6rpam50ml061110d2@4ax.com...
On Fri, 26 Sep 2008 15:41:12 -0700 (PDT), moizhami@gmail.com wrote:

hello sir


3. Stop whining. This is USENET, the last bastion of free speech on
this planet, even if you can only access it through Google.

Make use of it while you still have time.

JF

Cripes! What is it about GMAIL and Yahoo that attracts all the idiots of
the
world?

I've heard there are scientists working on an update to elecromagnetic
theory, that will explain exactly that. I believe I read about it in
_Science_ magazine. The Electromagidiocy hypothesis, I think they
call it. Has to do with CRT's sucking out alpha waves, coupled with
the decline of science education in the USA. Free and abundant access
to pornography is cited as a minor contributor. One hope is that LCD
and LED technology will lessen the effect, but such hopes are forecast
as dim.
Pretty funny, Charlie. Maybe the new Large Hadron Collider will shed some
insight, too (if they ever get it running again).

Bob
--
== All google group posts are automatically deleted due to spam ==
 
"Bob" &lt;bob9@mailinator.com&gt; wrote in message
news:86ed5c4c-d678-4d96-b9fe-e92e0e23e365@c65g2000hsa.googlegroups.com...
Oups forget to post the link
http://www3.sympatico.ca/captoro/motor/fullCircuit2.gif

This is a small part of my project. Well if this part works great, if
not I will by more solar panel. Any how here is the link where I got
the circuit from:www.skif.biz/files/dd2dfe.pdf (4 battery switch)

It may not do as it says, but the circuit should work nevertheless.

thanks
k

Groan, we can stop trying to figure out your crazy schematic now.

You need to learn two things:

1) Not everything on the web is true.
2) The principle of conservation of energy.

There is lots of nonsense about free energy on the web.
You can't make a perpetual motion machine,
a car that runs on water or a machine that
will run a light bulb forever without external
energy input.

You can safely assume that anything mentioning
Nikola Tesla and free energy is a stupid hoax that
won't work.

This scheme will not work.

If you don't believe this you need to try out
the circuit shown on the bottom of the first page
of that pdf. The one with two batterys and
a light bulb in a loop.

Perferably try this with a couple of AA batterys
and a torch bulb. I'm not sure you can be
trusted to not hurt yourself messing with
lead acid batterys.

The pdf claims that one battery will charge the
other. It will not.

If you have the positive of one battery to
the negative of the other then the sum of
the voltages is 24 volts. You get 24 volts
across the bulb. A 24volt bulb will
discharge both the batterys.

If you have the batterys wired with opposite
polarity eg batteryA+ to batteryB+, batteryB-
to lamp, lamp to BatteryA-
then the sum of the battery voltages is
zero!
The lamp does not light, one battery
does not charge the other.

If one 12volt battery is slightly different voltage
to the other you might get 0.5V across
the lamp and a faint glow.

Once you have realised that the first page
of the pdf is complete crap it should
be obvious that all the rest is too.

It sounds like you have put a lot of time
into this and spent a bit of money on parts.
I suggest that before attempting any more
design projects you read a really basic
book on electronics, play with some
AA batterys, bulbs and a voltmeter and
figure out how volts add up round
a circuit.
There are too many errors and ASSumptions in the circuit descriptions and
components even to begin criticism and correction. Some big crazies are:

1. It says the 12 V batteries can be charged to 36 VDC. I think not...

2. It says a fully discharged battery can be recharged in under one minute
without any heating. Let's see. 7 amp-hour battery charged in 1 minute
needs 60x7 amps = 420 amps. Boom!

3. The author of the document states that the transformers used in the John
Bedini circuit have an 8 ohm primary and 1000 ohm secondary, and then
states that the voltage ratio is 125, when it is closer to 11. This is a
common error among those who are clueless about electronics, and places
suspicion on any other "facts" he may state.

4. The ASSumption is that the "environment" supplies unlimited free "zero
point" energy field (space-time continuum). The only way you can get "free"
energy from the environment is if you are located in the path of a
microwave beam. Of course, that would fry your brain, which may be what
happened to these kooks.

5. Part of the explanation involves electrons moving quickly on the surface
of wires and then reaching a "bottleneck" when they attempt to enter the
battery where the current is somehow carried by heavier lead ions whose
inertia cause a build-up of voltage (and current).

6. There is obvious confusion in the author's concept of current, voltage,
energy, and power.

7. It states that Nikola Tesla used four diodes, but I don't think there
were any available during his lifetime, except perhaps crystal diodes or
vacuum tubes.

I found an interesting website that adds more information to this
concept/hoax.
http://peswiki.com/index.php/Talk:OS:Tesla_Switch_-_Geovoltaic_Energy_Pump_(GVEP)

I liked the name PESwiki, as my initials are PES.

There was also an interesting discussion on Tesla's receivers, which
introduced a negative-resistance device.
http://www.teslasociety.com/teslarec.pdf. But I don't think there is any
evidence that Tesla belived in OU or free energy. It might be possible to
transmit energy efficiently through the ionosphere, or tap into energy
produced by the same mechanisms that make lightning, but that is a far cry
from having a simple circuit tap into energy from quantum vacuum and the
space-time continuum.

For the OP, the best way to put batteries in series and parallel is
electromechanical relays. They are fast enough for any conceivable
practical purpose, and should not be noisy enough to be a problem.

Paul
 
Here is another web page by someone who constructed the same sort of
circuit that the OP has, and got a similar result, with one of the
batteries being overloaded. Also, the total state of charge after some time
of playing ring-around-the-rosary with three batteries is shown to be
diminished exactly as expected by conventional theory.
http://www.ctglabs.com/tesla1.htm

Paul
 
"Anon Email"

On the back it says 100V cos it is made for Japan or other place with that
power voltage.
Probably got it on eBay.
No, I bought it in Japan when I was there,


** What a PITA prick you are for not saying that originally.


I bought a transformer which transforms from 240V (I'm in Australia),
to 115V. I couldn't find a transformer that transforms down to 100V
specifically. The speaker works fine at 115V. Am I likely to blow the
speaker if I up the volume too much?


** Go ahead - make MY day ...............


Japan is a bit weird,


** So would you be

- if someone dropped two fucking nukes on you.


they have voltage supply at 100V, but the
current frequency is 50 or 60 Hz depending on the region.


** Depends where the nukes landed - dickhead.


From what
I've read on the Internet, a difference of about 15% in the supply
voltage is OK, and the current frequencies will not affect equipment
that's not sensitive.


** Yawnnnnnn ....

It don't matter - if it don't matter ....


I also noticed that the desktop computer I used
to use in Japan was rated at 115V - I was curious as to why this
didn't blow the power supply.


** Huh ???

Totally off with the pixies....


Am I right about the 15% acceptability
range, or was that incorrect info?


** Is your prick +/- 15% compared to the next guy's ??

Enquiring minds need to know......




...... Phil
 

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