Chip with simple program for Toy

[JANA]

I take everything apart and clean all the pieces with vinegar and then
rinse with water. You may have to do some un-soldering of the wires to
the contacts. Then I use a blow dryer to dry everything. Just make sure
you don't make the parts warmer than you can touch with your hands.
After all the parts feel dry, let them sit for 24 hours to air dry
completely. Now put everything back together, and re-solder the wires
back to the contacts as necessary.

If you cannot take everything apart, you can try to clean the battery
contacts in their positions. This will be more difficult to do a proper
job.

--

JANA
_____


<void.no.spam.com@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:4b9a257c-aea1-4680-8986-777fedeae745@z66g2000hsc.googlegroups.com...
I have a handheld video game that takes 4 alkaline size C batteries,
and I had left it in a corner 5 years ago and forgotten about it. I
finally looked at it today and there must have been a battery leak,
because there is a substance that looks like a white powder all around
the battery compartment. The game had been placed in a plastic bag,
and part of the bag around the battery compartment was dissolved. In
addition, the game was inside the plastic bag, which was inside a
paper bag. I noticed a large dried liquid stain inside the paper bag.

So what is the white powder-like substance? Is it toxic? How should
I attempt to clean the game?

Also, what was the liquid that leaked out? If it stained the paper
bag, then it probably got onto the carpet too. Should I try to clean
the area of the carpet that the paper bag was sitting on, or should I
not worry about that?

 

[Phil Allison]

<void.no.spam.com@gmail.com>

I have a handheld video game that takes 4 alkaline size C batteries,
and I had left it in a corner 5 years ago and forgotten about it. I
finally looked at it today and there must have been a battery leak,
because there is a substance that looks like a white powder all around
the battery compartment. The game had been placed in a plastic bag,
and part of the bag around the battery compartment was dissolved. In
addition, the game was inside the plastic bag, which was inside a
paper bag. I noticed a large dried liquid stain inside the paper bag.

So what is the white powder-like substance?

** KOH.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Potassium_hydroxide

Is it toxic? How should
I attempt to clean the game?

** Warm water with a few drops of liquid detergent is fine.

Also, what was the liquid that leaked out?

** KOH plus water.

If it stained the paper
bag, then it probably got onto the carpet too.

** Its actually a common carpet cleaner.

Biggest problem is the way it corrodes metals - including the parts and
tracks on a PCB.



........ Phil

 

[Bob Eld]

<lilipot@ymail.com> wrote in message
news:f646a429-7782-4fd2-9d35-e92eee9b32f5@79g2000hsk.googlegroups.com...

Hi,

I have a question concerning a boost circuit Vs a dc motor.
here is a link to a boost circuit:
www.intersil.com/engineeringtools/tools/buckandboostcircuit.pdf
In the step-up circuit, when Q1 is on, L1 is grounded. I feel that
this circuit resembles a lot like an electric motor and its coil.
The analogy is when Q1 is on, it would be like when the brushes makes
contact with the coils. The duty cycles with the time the brushes has
contact with the coils.
I tried implementing this circuit to a dc motor pole and I was not
getting any boosted voltage.The circuit was the same as shown in the
link, but I did not add a load resistance, just a big capacitor. Does
somebody knows why I am not getting a boosted voltage?
There was not filter or smoothing capacitor on the poles of the
motor. I used a small electric motor from a remote control car.

lili

Why do you want to use a motor?

A motor is not a simple inductor. True it has an inductive component but if
the motor turns, it has back emf which would negate any boost effect.

Secondly a motor is a low frequency device. It has high winding capacitance
and a core that is not suitable for high frequencies. What frequency were
you trying to run your boost circuit?

If you lock the rotor up so it can't turn and run the frequency no higher
than a few hundred hertz, you should see some boost effect in the posted
circuit. Of course the motor inductance will likely be too low for effective
low frequency operation.

In other word, a motor is not an effective inductor for a boost circuit. Why
do you want to use a motor?

 

[Kris Krieger]

DeanB <deanbrown3d@yahoo.com> wrote in news:e2252413-5233-4454-bce5-
9abaf89c7e2f@e39g2000hsf.googlegroups.com:

Hello all,

I've only done a little soldering before, but I want to rebuild a
battery pack for my TI-59 calculator (which is basically 3 AA-sized
batteries soldered together in series).

Can I just solder directly onto the battery terminals? With a copper
wire. Should I use flux? Will this overheat the battery and/or blow it
up?

Thanks for any tips!

I'm a beginner, so sorry if this is a really basic question, but, what is
the advantage of soldering them in, rather than using a battery holder?

Thanks!

- Kris

 

[BobW]

"Kris Krieger" <me@dowmuff.in> wrote in message
news:bNednQiMUNLxI8LVnZ2dnUVZ_gednZ2d@earthlink.com...

DeanB <deanbrown3d@yahoo.com> wrote in news:e2252413-5233-4454-bce5-
9abaf89c7e2f@e39g2000hsf.googlegroups.com:

Hello all,

I've only done a little soldering before, but I want to rebuild a
battery pack for my TI-59 calculator (which is basically 3 AA-sized
batteries soldered together in series).

Can I just solder directly onto the battery terminals? With a copper
wire. Should I use flux? Will this overheat the battery and/or blow it
up?

Thanks for any tips!

I'm a beginner, so sorry if this is a really basic question, but, what is
the advantage of soldering them in, rather than using a battery holder?

Thanks!

- Kris

The physical mounting may not lend itself to any available holder, and the
mechanical vibrations may disallow it, too (like in a model car or
airplane).

Additionally, I don't think you could achieve the low battery-to-battery
connection resistance that is required for high current applications without
using either soldering or welding techniques.

Bob
--
== NOTE: I automatically delete all Google Group posts due to uncontrolled
SPAM ==

 

[Kris Krieger]

"BobW" <nimby_NEEDSPAM@roadrunner.com> wrote in
news:ZtOdnZ3zEbGLQ8LVnZ2dnUVZWhednZ2d@giganews.com:

"Kris Krieger" <me@dowmuff.in> wrote in message
news:bNednQiMUNLxI8LVnZ2dnUVZ_gednZ2d@earthlink.com...
DeanB <deanbrown3d@yahoo.com> wrote in news:e2252413-5233-4454-bce5-
9abaf89c7e2f@e39g2000hsf.googlegroups.com:

Hello all,

I've only done a little soldering before, but I want to rebuild a
battery pack for my TI-59 calculator (which is basically 3 AA-sized
batteries soldered together in series).

Can I just solder directly onto the battery terminals? With a copper
wire. Should I use flux? Will this overheat the battery and/or blow
it up?

Thanks for any tips!

I'm a beginner, so sorry if this is a really basic question, but,
what is the advantage of soldering them in, rather than using a
battery holder?

Thanks!

- Kris

The physical mounting may not lend itself to any available holder, and
the mechanical vibrations may disallow it, too (like in a model car or
airplane).

Additionally, I don't think you could achieve the low
battery-to-battery connection resistance that is required for high
current applications without using either soldering or welding
techniques.

Bob

Oh, OK, thanks!

- Kris

 

[Phil Allison]

<angus.oliver@gmail.com>

The subject describes pretty much my question. I have been spending
several days trying to debug a circuit, only to find that it wasn't my
fault:

I have a normal (pretty cheap) switch-mode plug-pack power supply
(240V, 50Hz in; 12V, 200mA out), and nominal voltage appears to be
somewhere around 12V (so far so good). With an electrolytic cap across
the output (correctly polarised), the voltage rises to somewhere
around 17V - 18V. I had no idea this would occur, and was thus trying
to find the problem in my circuit.

Does anyone know why this happens? Presumerably a poor regulating
circuit in the plug pack, but does anyone have some more thorough
answers?

** A small SMPS plug pack I have here (12 volt, 780mA ) produces a strong
100 Hz ripple ( ie hum) at the output if you add even 100uF of external
capacitance - but it was built to power a particular ( telecoms ) device
rather than general purpose use.

I suppose something in the output voltage control loop goes out of wack when
you add extra C.

But you one you have sounds like a menace to equipment.



...... Phil

 

[Charles]

"John Fields" <jfields@austininstruments.com> wrote in message
news:e8j564l8a11gpm6hb1ebdg5iusjopq2nfe@4ax.com...

No, the shame lies with idiots like you, who have a document in front
of them which clearly states that a _comparator_ is being used as a
relaxation oscillator and apparently don't even bother to read it.

Lovely post.

We are truly impressed by your vast and impeccable knowledge, and your
haughty way of sharing it with the low-life.

And bottom post.

You are indeed the master of "bottom" posting.

JF

GFYJF

 

[Kris Krieger]

insula@webtv.net (C. Nick Kruzer) wrote in news:1824-4862E7F4-273
@storefull-3253.bay.webtv.net:

Hi Kris, you wrote:

I'm a beginner, so sorry if this is a really basic
question, but, what is the advantage of
soldering them in, rather than using a battery
holder?

The cells I used were of a flatenned box-shape [90° corners], (about
1cm×2.5cm×6cm) I think they might be called prism cells but they are
not of a true geometric prism configuration. I don't know why they might
be called prism cells or prismatic, or, if indeed it is even accurate
nomenclature that I am using.

I soldered the cells together using the cell/battery manufacturer's very
short pre-existing solder tabs. I made a new holder out of flat and
angled pieces of plastic from the original surplus battery case, which
previously held the cells.

I used a multi-purpose thick plastic paint to hold the plastic pieces
together and to insulate electric connections as well as fasten the
metal cells to my newly constructed plastic battery case.

I purchased about a 14 oz. container of the paint for around ten dollars
at Home Depot. It comes in three colors: red, blue and black. I like the
product and prefer the black color. I have used it most often to
insulate wires where taping was impractical.

insula

I never heard of that paint - sounds like a useful thing to have around, so
that's a good tidbit to know

- Kris

 

[Tom Biasi]

"steve" <kvsteve@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:03b46771-e8ad-45bf-8bf9-7fdf483a12cf@v26g2000prm.googlegroups.com...

Since the 9v battery supply is quickly used up, I am using a ac
battery eliminator/wall wart to run the Led timer.

Although the eliminator provides the needed 12v to 15 v, it also
changes the 50 hz dramatically to several khz.

The khz output from the eliminator completely upsets the 555 timer
input, so there is no timing available from with the circuit.

I tried a 1000uF with several diodes placed at the eliminator’s
output, but there is hardly any production of dc.

Thanks.

Steve.

Sounds like you are using a switching supply.
The wall wart is not filtered very well.
Also your project didn't address noise on the DC supply.
I would suggest non-switching wall wart and clean up the output.
I would also look into your design since it wasn't expecting noise from a
battery.

Tom

 

[Tom Biasi]

<lilipot@ymail.com> wrote in message
news:6a84cf26-14a0-4155-af9a-15c5854eb8da@e53g2000hsa.googlegroups.com...

Hello everybody,

I have a set of battery, but I only one hooked up to the circuit, The
other one act as a backup. I want to implement an electronic unit that
will change (swap) the batteries.Therefore the wiring will need to be
changed. The circuit need to support 5amp of continuous current. Here
is what I want to implement.
from:
A to C
B to D

to:
A to D
B to C

Is it better to use a analogue or digital switching approach. I am
just worried that digital might take too much energy by keeping those
transistor or mosfet open and close.

Li

A little more detail needed as to the actual application.

Tom

 

[Charles]

"John Fields" <jfields@austininstruments.com> wrote in message
news:8lb764d5jvker5uqhbs6kbmpm6k3ccmhog@4ax.com...

JF

GFYJF

---
Good For You, John Fields?

Of course. What else would it mean?

 

[David L. Jones]

"W. eWatson" <notvalid2@sbcglobal.net> wrote in message
news:46O8k.11285$N87.1651@nlpi068.nbdc.sbc.com...

I have an outdoor dawn/dusk timer for use outside. My main use has been for
Christmas lights, but now I need something like it for a pond. I'd like to
set it for say 8 am to 6 pm, or slight variations to turn on the fountain.
Anyone know where I can get a more flexible outdoor timer than the
dawn/dusk one?

Mains timers cost only a few dollars at your local hardware store, either
electronic (with LCD display) or mechanical, I've got one on my outdoor pond
pump. More expensive ones are weatherproof if your mains power point is
exposed.

Dave.

 

[Tom Biasi]

"rabiticide" <rabiticide@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:0b9bdaa6-84d6-4b39-b64f-85ab5e295a77@w1g2000prd.googlegroups.com...

I was charging my battery over the weekend and checked it last night
to find the battery dead as a doornail. Upon examination, the battery
is completely dry. I'm guessing it was overcharged and the water
boiled away but it shouldn't've 'cause it's an "automatic battery
charger" that's designed to stop charging when it's done...

So, do I just add distilled H2O? Will that work? I have to walk to the
store 1.5 miles (2.5 km) away and that's a long way to carry 1 gallon
(4? L) of water...


rK

How far do you have to walk with your new battery?

Tom

 

[Tom Biasi]

"rabiticide" <rabiticide@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:42798064-e8c7-4097-92dd-481d023f862e@w4g2000prd.googlegroups.com...

new battery? what do you mean?

rK
I mean you need a new one.

You most likely fried the battery.
If the plates are warped or other damage typical of cooking dry you will not
be able to save this battery.
Sure, you can try, the odds are low.
That's why I asked if you wanted to walk twice.
If you have any good beer in you fridge, tell a neighbor he can have a few
cold ones if he would give you a ride to your new battery.
Sorry for the levity, well not really.

Good Luck,
Tom

 

[Paul E. Schoen]

"Eeyore" <rabbitsfriendsandrelations@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:48689A37.9788E744@hotmail.com...

"Paul E. Schoen" wrote:

This sounds a lot like the same project that was discussed by the OP at
length March 22 ("Need a big transformer") and March 31 ("transformers
in
parallel"). If the OP simply needs +/- 24 VDC at 2 (or even 5) amps,
there
are easier and better ways to get that than tinkering with parts from an
old PC power supply. Unless you need something with exotic
specifications,
you can always buy it for less than you can build it (unless your time
is
worth nothing or it is mostly for learning). And for learning, it is
best
to build basic circuits until you understand them, and there is also a
lot
you can do by just running simulations. Much better and safer than
blowing
up parts in a breadboard.

Totally agreed.


I bought a 200 watt dual output +/- 43V 2A switcher originally designed
for
an audio amp for about $22 on eBay, and it is a well-made device that
will
meet my needs if I ever decide to build a high-power op-amp or audio
amplifier.

Do you still have the item number ? I'd be intruiged to just look at
that.

It was still on my watch list, and I just got this:

http://cgi.ebay.com:80/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=150201799823&ssPageName=ADME:BBS:US:1123

I bought some other items from them. A good vendor.

http://stores.ebay.com/semielectric

Paul

 

[Bob Masta]

On Mon, 30 Jun 2008 04:29:21 -0700, insula@webtv.net (C. Nick Kruzer)
wrote:

Are the filiment support prongs in an ordinary household incandescent
light bulb made of Nickel metal or some type of Nickel alloy?

They look shiny like stainless steel.

I've been using them as points in negative ion generator experiments.
I'm wondering about the release of the small amounts, if any, of
volatile metals into the surrounding breathable atmosphere.

I've also played with the shiny prongs using them as small electrodes
for water electrolysis with a 9v battery.

Now that I've replaced all my household screw-in incandescent lights
with compact fluorescent units I have been messing around with the
rejected incandescent bulbs.

Using a jeweler's saw I open the bulbs near the most distal portion of
the electrical contact end. The internal components are then carefully
removed. If you do this you should wear gloves and safety
glasses/goggles. Glass chips will fly.
(Reminder: Don't break open fluorescent bulbs, they contain mercury.)

Incandescent bulbs may be hazardous as well: Animal studies of
tungsten shrapnel show that it is a very powerful carcinogen. I don't
know how tungsten dust (which I assume must be inside the envelope
after the filament burns out) would behave in the lungs, but I suspect
the answer would be "not good".

This may not be an environmental hazard like mercury in landfills, but
on a personal experimenter basis it may be much worse. (My
understanding is that mercury is a problem mostly in organically
active forms like methyl mercury, not as a raw element.)

Best regards,


Bob Masta

DAQARTA v4.00
Data AcQuisition And Real-Time Analysis
www.daqarta.com
Scope, Spectrum, Spectrogram, Sound Level Meter
FREE Signal Generator
Science with your sound card!

 

[George Jetson]

"Jonathan Kirwan" <jkirwan@easystreet.com> wrote in message
news:1cui64tp3blo98q3cuekdkbq8mqm64sgnv@4ax.com...

On Mon, 30 Jun 2008 17:06:09 -0700 (PDT), rabiticide
rabiticide@gmail.com> wrote:

It's my motorcycle battery and it's the situation where I need it to
get to this job so I can afford to fix it. I just came off disability
and with $4 to my name I spent $2 on a gallon of distilled water...

Okay. It sounded like that kind of situation. I've been there in my
life, too, so I can feel your pain.

So I am going to try it and see what happens. I will post my
results....

If there doesn't appear to be _any_ sulfuric acid inside, then I don't
hold out much hope here. But best luck, anyway.

Isn't H2SO4 a solid? I don't know - I'm thinking of, like, NaOH which
dissolves in water to make the base.
snip

NaOH is a solid. White, and kind of slippery to the touch. But
sulfuric acid is a liquid. I've used it, before, as part of a double
boiler situation that could achieve the higher melting points I needed
at the time while also providing very, very even heating which was
also necessary for the rocket fuel I was making then.

Jon

Depending on local weather conditions, rain water should woek as well.

--
They can have my command prompt when they pry it from my cold dead fingers.

 

[christofire]

"Kasterborus" <kasterborus@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:991686a5-accb-4b91-bf75-f676f51c28c7@r66g2000hsg.googlegroups.com...

Hi,

I'm looking for a circuit that can read a standard line level audio
signal and output a continous voltage 0-5v proportional to the
amplitude of the input.

This in turn would be read by an ADC/microprocessor to modulate some
flashing lights.

As always - any help is greatly appreciated.

Dave

Try Googling 'precision full wave rectifier'.

 

[christofire]

"rabiticide" <rabiticide@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:75c1d0cb-82e4-4396-9990-6257eb53051f@q24g2000prf.googlegroups.com...

Battery now works!!!
I put distilled water into my dry, dead battery, then I charged it,
and it cranks beautifully and started my motorcycle!!!

The conducty thingies (anodes and cathodes?) don't go all the way down
so I think I boiled the water down to that level at which point the
contact was broken and the overcharging stopped. This is my
hypothesis. The H2SO4 didn't go anywhere because it was below that
level and has a much higher boiling point than water.

I was asking guys over at the motorcycle group and they were saying
that a lot of battery chargers are too powerful for motorcycle
batteries. Thanks for the help!!


rK

Huh? But you said it was dry (i.e. not wet) and I believe the definition of
the word isn't specific to H2O alone.

Surely if you were aware of acid sloshing about at the bottom of the case
you wouldn't have used the word 'dry'!?

Chris