Chip with simple program for Toy

[David L. Jones]

"Bill Bowden" <wrongaddress@att.net> wrote in message
news:36e15247-37e5-46be-97cc-312cdd5ebfcc@26g2000hsk.googlegroups.com...

Can't seem to locate any battery specs for Alkaline "D" cells. Tried
the Duracell and Raovac sites, but couldn't find much data for
standard cells. Read a few notes indicating the capacity of a standard
"D cell" is somewhere between 12 and 16 amp hours.

Anybody know what capacity to expect from a standard Alkaline "D cell"
at a continuous 0.5mA discharge rate until the voltage falls to 1.1
volts?

http://data.energizer.com/PDFs/E95.pdf

Note that the capacity vs discharge curves don't go down that low for D
cells. You could try and extrapolate the curves, but that's only guessing.
When you get to figures this low you are talking 40000 hours+, the shelf
life of the battery.

If you want to use the full capacity of the battery then you need to have a
0.9V cutoff or slightly lower. 1.1V will be wasting a fair bit of the
capacity.

What is your application?

Dave.

 

[Don Klipstein]

In <1tidnQB1A7Qc2NHVnZ2dnUVZ_uOdnZ2d@web-ster.com>, Tim Wescott wrote:

Jonathan Kirwan wrote:

To name a few I've read about:
Uniross Hybrio
Sanyo Eneloop
Nexcell EnergyOn
Accupower Acculoop

I think they are typically a little less in terms of mAh capacity
(2000 to 2100 versus 2600+ elsewhere, for example.) Also, I remember
reading this:

http://www.amazon.com/review/R1HMYU4BKE0VY7/ref=cm_cr_rdp_perm

Not sure if the poster did their work well, or not. But it is a
cautionary word on the topic of taking the manufacturers' specs on
their face.

If the OP is close on the 12-16 Ah capacity of an alkaline D cell and
that is the range the OP is looking for (or better), then with 500uA
draw we are talking about 3-4 year operation. NiMH seems wrong on
that point.

Jon

This post was a poor choice to proselytize given the life requirements,
I just have a 'thing' for folks who design battery-powered systems
assuming 1.2V per cell (or 1.5V per cell) because that's what it says on
the package.

0.9V per cell is about right for moderate discharge rates with NiCd and
NiMH batteries, and you can't exactly harm a primary cell by sucking a
bit more juice out of it.

I _do_ suspect that for many dry cells, you'll get killed by shelf life
(or rust) before the actual circuit drain causes a problem.

My experience with NiMH is that 1.2 volts per cell is conservative at
C/5 discharge rate and 80% of the way discharged. My experience is that
NiMH mostly achieves at least 1.25 volts/cell at that discharge rate.

- Don Klipstein (don@misty.com)

 

[Don Klipstein]

In <1150157d-d87b-4be7-b59f-b1a5298e5849@a1g2000hsb.googlegroups.com>,
Bill Bowden wrote:

On Jun 9, 1:28 pm, d...@manx.misty.com (Don Klipstein) wrote:
In <1tidnQB1A7Qc2NHVnZ2dnUVZ_uOdn...@web-ster.com>, Tim Wescott wrote:

This post was a poor choice to proselytize given the life requirements,
I just have a 'thing' for folks who design battery-powered systems
assuming 1.2V per cell (or 1.5V per cell) because that's what it says on
the package.

0.9V per cell is about right for moderate discharge rates with NiCd and
NiMH batteries, and you can't exactly harm a primary cell by sucking a
bit more juice out of it.

I _do_ suspect that for many dry cells, you'll get killed by shelf life
(or rust) before the actual circuit drain causes a problem.

My experience with NiMH is that 1.2 volts per cell is conservative at
C/5 discharge rate and 80% of the way discharged. My experience is that
NiMH mostly achieves at least 1.25 volts/cell at that discharge rate.

- Don Klipstein (d...@misty.com)

In what time frame? I need 2 to 3 year continuous operating time and
not sure that's doable with a NiMH battery due to the high self
discharge rate.

NiMH ain't gonna do that. Use alkaline. I was only commenting on what
voltage NiMH delivers.

- Don Klipstein (don@misty.com)

 

[Tom Biasi]

<AFLAM101@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:1d11a985-f207-47d3-b374-95c73ac756f1@79g2000hsk.googlegroups.com...

Is "slo-blo" the same as "time delay"
Usually.

 

[Bob Eld]

<billshat44@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:46aca10e-a240-4152-8b4a-1e923c43b584@w7g2000hsa.googlegroups.com...

I really hadn't expected this kind of response to a serious question.
I don't have a formal education in electronics, but am very interested
in building some projects for a hobby that I enjoy.
Perhaps I didn't phrase my question correctly, or "eeyore" is exactly
what you are but whatever the reason you decided to flame me for is
total uncalled for.
I already have some board mounted pots that I can use for my
project, but there are no markings on the pots to tell me who the
manufacturer is or any other information that I could cross reference
to information on the internet. The pots in the library do not show
the pin spacing sizes. My question was how do the people of this
group determine what size of pot they are going to use. There are
several different pad layouts for pots. I thought the name of this
group was sci.electronics.basics not lets.make,fun.of other.people

Eeyore wrote:
"billshat44@yahoo.com" wrote:

Do you print out the pots and manually place
the pots on the page until you find the right size?

Can you wipe your own backside ? It's kinda the same thing.

Graham

Pay no attention to Eeyore, He's just braying like the jackass his name sake
implies. Do not take it personal, he makes these noises often. I think now
and then the toilet seat falls on his dick and it makes him very cross!
Eeeee Haw!

I would help you with the pot question but thought it specific to Eagle
Cadsoft so didn't respond, not knowing Eagle.

 

[Phil Allison]

<AFLAM101@gmail.com>

Is "slo-blo" the same as "time delay"

** " Slo Blo " is a registered trade mark of Litelfuse, Inc - though the
term has kinda gone into the lingo now. It refers to a " time-lag " type
fuse.

Some makers use the term " time delay " to refer to the same thing and often
mention a 200% for 12 second sustaining characteristic.

Many glass or ceramic tube fuses you see will have the letter " T " in front
of the amp rating - which stands for the German word " trage " which means
slow or lazy.




...... Phil

 

[Alvin Andries]

<mrdarrett@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:c29af287-e792-4c80-9e53-a3e27cdcbe38@z16g2000prn.googlegroups.com...
We got a 12V outdoor landscape light kit from Big Lots (was about
$30). 20 lights, 4W ea bulb, 100W 12VAC switching power supply.

After a few hours, the power supply burned out. (Yay Made in China.)

I bought a 200W 12VDC transformer from Lowe's ($50!!!) to replace the
power supply. (I'm putting in 8 16W bulbs for spot lighting, leaving
12 4W bulbs, total 176W power, plus line losses.)

I noticed that the light closest to the power supply is brightest, and
the light furthest away is very dim. Even when putting in a 16W bulb
at the end, it's STILL dimmer than the 4W bulb closest to the power
supply.

Would 12V AC solve the dim light problem?

If so, how about pulsed DC? (I'm thinking of connecting a 555,
switching at ~100 Hz, to a 20A MOSFET.)

Why did they bother to rectify the 12V output power, I wonder...

Thanks,

Michael

-----------------------------

Hi Michael,

If you measured the voltage at each blb, you would have seen the voltage
drop. I don't know if you are using the original cable or using an home-brew
extension, but you need to carry 16+ amps efficiently. Anything less than
2.5mm^2 (someone will have to convert this to the maximum gauge for the US,
http://www.reade.com/Conversion/wire_gauge.html => gauge 10) would be silly
and even risky due to heating.

Regards,
Alvin.

 

[Alvin Andries]

<mrdarrett@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:c29af287-e792-4c80-9e53-a3e27cdcbe38@z16g2000prn.googlegroups.com...
We got a 12V outdoor landscape light kit from Big Lots (was about
$30). 20 lights, 4W ea bulb, 100W 12VAC switching power supply.

After a few hours, the power supply burned out. (Yay Made in China.)

I bought a 200W 12VDC transformer from Lowe's ($50!!!) to replace the
power supply. (I'm putting in 8 16W bulbs for spot lighting, leaving
12 4W bulbs, total 176W power, plus line losses.)

I noticed that the light closest to the power supply is brightest, and
the light furthest away is very dim. Even when putting in a 16W bulb
at the end, it's STILL dimmer than the 4W bulb closest to the power
supply.

Would 12V AC solve the dim light problem?

If so, how about pulsed DC? (I'm thinking of connecting a 555,
switching at ~100 Hz, to a 20A MOSFET.)

Why did they bother to rectify the 12V output power, I wonder...

Thanks,

Michael

-----------------------------

Hi Michael,

If you measured the voltage at each blb, you would have seen the voltage
drop. I don't know if you are using the original cable or using an home-brew
extension, but you need to carry 16+ amps efficiently. Anything less than
2.5mm^2 (someone will have to convert this to the maximum gauge for the US,
http://www.reade.com/Conversion/wire_gauge.html => gauge 10) would be silly
and even risky due to heating.

Regards,
Alvin.

 

[Dan Coby]

"shrdlu" <pixsnap@juno.com> wrote in message
news:a4890dcb-373f-4ccb-947e-9c7313ec5563@m36g2000hse.googlegroups.com...

On the road, a Dell laptop's AC-to-DC adaptor is powered by a 75W
inverter plugged into the car's cigarette lighter recepticle. Is there
any way aboard a small boat (using Radio Shack parts) a direct power
supply from 12v deep cycle battery to computer can be rigged up
without utilizing the inverter and the charging capabilities of the
Dell power brick? Default DC to the computer is 19.5V - 3.34A

Dell sells adapters that accept DC input. For instance this one will
work with 11 to 16 volt DC.

http://accessories.us.dell.com/sna/products/Power/productdetail.aspx?c=us&l=en&s=dhs&cs=19&sku=310-8814&mfgpid=167757

Check Dell for more information:

http://www.dell.com/content/topics/global.aspx/batteries_sitelet/en/inspiron_main?c=us&cs=19&l=en&s=dhs

 

[Dan Coby]

"shrdlu" <pixsnap@juno.com> wrote in message
news:a4890dcb-373f-4ccb-947e-9c7313ec5563@m36g2000hse.googlegroups.com...

On the road, a Dell laptop's AC-to-DC adaptor is powered by a 75W
inverter plugged into the car's cigarette lighter recepticle. Is there
any way aboard a small boat (using Radio Shack parts) a direct power
supply from 12v deep cycle battery to computer can be rigged up
without utilizing the inverter and the charging capabilities of the
Dell power brick? Default DC to the computer is 19.5V - 3.34A

Dell sells adapters that accept DC input. For instance this one will
work with 11 to 16 volt DC.

http://accessories.us.dell.com/sna/products/Power/productdetail.aspx?c=us&l=en&s=dhs&cs=19&sku=310-8814&mfgpid=167757

Check Dell for more information:

http://www.dell.com/content/topics/global.aspx/batteries_sitelet/en/inspiron_main?c=us&cs=19&l=en&s=dhs

 

[christofire]

<curious.no.spam.com@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:dc4e20e5-9560-4a9e-b91e-e4ce8473e4cb@l64g2000hse.googlegroups.com...

What are the chances of a USB drive being damaged by static
electricity if someone put it in a ziploc drive?

Pretty small if they put it in a plastic bag, especially if they capped the
connector first.

But what's a 'ziploc drive' - never come across one of those before!

Chris

 

[Michael Robinson]

<silusilusilu@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:c42b0047-c24b-4859-9707-e132b53862f2@p25g2000hsf.googlegroups.com...

I have some questions about this charge pump:
http://img412.imageshack.us/img412/149/chargevn1.png
This should give a gate voltage to nmos switch equal to 2Vdd, but i
don't understand how does it....If i consider an input voltage equal
to 0V,inverter gives Vdd,this voltage becames left nmos gate
voltage,this charges C1 to Vdd . So, the voltage drop in C1 is equal
to Vdd, in C2 is equal to 0.This procedure is wrong because it doesn't
give the same results in figure...so how this circuit works?
Thanks

Somebody needs to explicate that diagram.

One would assume that the mosfet pair forms a bistable multivibrator -- but
then why are the gates connected to the sources? And what are n-channel
mosfets doing at the top rail?
If this is a well-known circuit, there ought to be links to some other pages
that actually explain what's going on and have the components clearly
labeled.

 

[Lord Garth]

<mrdarrett@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:788a5d31-6df1-4b17-9a1f-f53b4c137579@25g2000hsx.googlegroups.com...

Our house came with a weird outdoor light that uses a 13W 4-pin
fluorescent bulb (G24q-1?), similar to these:

http://www.1000bulbs.com/13-Watt-4-Pin-G24q1-Base-Compact-Fluorescent-Bulbs/

These bulbs cost around $7 each.

Is there any adapter that converts the 4-pin base to a regular,
normal, screw-in socket?

The guys at Lowe's and Home Depot are sure they don't have one.

Thanks,

Michael

I've seen these in fluorescent shop lights and in exit signs. Perhaps you
can get a socket from one of those devices.

 

[ian field]

<curious.no.spam.com@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:dc4e20e5-9560-4a9e-b91e-e4ce8473e4cb@l64g2000hse.googlegroups.com...

What are the chances of a USB drive being damaged by static
electricity if someone put it in a ziploc drive?

The protective cap frequently comes off the USB stick I carry around in my
pocket - its been rattling around in there with all sorts of junk for a
couple of years now.

 

[ian field]

<curious.no.spam.com@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:dc4e20e5-9560-4a9e-b91e-e4ce8473e4cb@l64g2000hse.googlegroups.com...

What are the chances of a USB drive being damaged by static
electricity if someone put it in a ziploc drive?

The protective cap frequently comes off the USB stick I carry around in my
pocket - its been rattling around in there with all sorts of junk for a
couple of years now.

 

[Phil Allison]

"JeffM"

CharlesBlackstone wrote:
[...]I've been googling and found these cable gauge calculators,
which tell me I need 10 or 12 gauge to carry 20 amps for 40 feet,
[...]12 volts input[...]

My simple 4-banger calculator says 40 ft of 12AWG carrying 20A
will lose 1.5V before it gets where it's going.
As you only have 12V to start, that seems ridiculous.

** The OP clearly stated he has a 30 volt, 20 amp supply.

He is worrying about nothing.

Any 8 to 10 gauge (AWG) cable would do fine.




....... Phil

 

[Tzortzakakis Dimitrios]

? "VWWall" <vwall@large.invalid> ?????? ??? ??????
news:XoWdncTJufdb2MnVnZ2dnUVZ_u6dnZ2d@earthlink.com...

DrewL wrote:
DC doesn't radiate! No problem. Even if the DC is "noisy" the co-ax
shielding should be adequate.

That sure makes it all sound easy
I do plan to use the most expensive DC power supplies I can find -
ones for laptops - so for the sake of my signals and the expensive
equipment they'll feed, I hope they will behave.

These may be expensive for other reasons than quality. There are many
excellent 15V power supplies on the market.

You don't need to twist them and solid 14AWG solid might be cheaper.
(With the price of copper going up, the #16 might be cheaper, but it's
not a standard gauge for power wiring.)

I have plenty of twisted & stranded 16 AWG in stock (speaker wire), so
costing an extra $0 makes it the cheapest and preferred choice...

Free is always cheaper than anything else! My point was you don't need
the twist or the stranded and 14AWG is availably extensively.

Don't let monster Cables know you're using #16 for speakers!

Even if he was using #10 it would be cheaper than monster cable;-)

--
Tzortzakakis Dimitrios
major in electrical engineering
mechanized infantry reservist
hordad AT otenet DOT gr

 

[ian field]

"Bill Bowden" <wrongaddress@att.net> wrote in message
news:1f0800d9-2cf9-4dcb-9b20-aab6c11bb5e1@34g2000hsh.googlegroups.com...
On Jun 14, 3:23 pm, "ian field" <dai....@ntlworld.com> wrote:

curious.no.spam....@gmail.com> wrote in message

news:dc4e20e5-9560-4a9e-b91e-e4ce8473e4cb@l64g2000hse.googlegroups.com...

What are the chances of a USB drive being damaged by static
electricity if someone put it in a ziploc drive?

The protective cap frequently comes off the USB stick I carry around in my
pocket - its been rattling around in there with all sorts of junk for a
couple of years now.

I put a USB stick on my keyring and then dropped my keys on the
concrete. The USB stick never worked again.

-Bill

That must have been unusual bad luck, I recently needed a USB connector and
sacrificed an old 64M stick to get it - it was surprisingly solidly
assembled and correspondingly difficult to remove the connector intact.

 

[ian field]

"Bill Bowden" <wrongaddress@att.net> wrote in message
news:1f0800d9-2cf9-4dcb-9b20-aab6c11bb5e1@34g2000hsh.googlegroups.com...
On Jun 14, 3:23 pm, "ian field" <dai....@ntlworld.com> wrote:

curious.no.spam....@gmail.com> wrote in message

news:dc4e20e5-9560-4a9e-b91e-e4ce8473e4cb@l64g2000hse.googlegroups.com...

What are the chances of a USB drive being damaged by static
electricity if someone put it in a ziploc drive?

The protective cap frequently comes off the USB stick I carry around in my
pocket - its been rattling around in there with all sorts of junk for a
couple of years now.

I put a USB stick on my keyring and then dropped my keys on the
concrete. The USB stick never worked again.

-Bill

That must have been unusual bad luck, I recently needed a USB connector and
sacrificed an old 64M stick to get it - it was surprisingly solidly
assembled and correspondingly difficult to remove the connector intact.

 

[Kris Krieger]

24x7eager <abc260191@gmail.com> wrote in news:119491a5-647d-4486-941e-
35ba8a34b986@j33g2000pri.googlegroups.com:

whats the best book option in basic electronics??

The post below had been posted by someone else, but I'd kept the post as a
reference; hope it' sof some help. Meanwhile, there are several books on-
line that you can find, and read off the web, or download and read as PDF
files, including (*not* an exhaustive list):

http://www.ibiblio.org/obp/electricCircuits
http://www.lightandmatter.com
http://www.doctronics.co.uk/design.htm
http://amasci.com/ele-edu.html
http://www.thinkquest.org/library/cat_show.html?cat_id=37

Here is that post:
==========================================================
Subject: Re: Good Beginner Electronics Book
From: "Claude" <claudec@cae.com>
Newsgroups: sci.electronics.basics

Here is what I am using, it doesn't get any simpler. It is a course book of
57 lessons and you buy the component kit that comes with it in a nice
little
tool box complete with breadboard and jumpers. The book and kit are 100%
compatible. The kit is exclusively sold by www.abra-electronics.com The kit
is loaded with all of the required components and cost approximately 35%
less than if bought separately. The book covers some theory then
immediately
has you breadboarding the lesson. They start with the schematic and
pictures
of the breadboard then wane you off of the breadboard pictures. The book
has
a few errors but the author maintains the required corrections on his site.
The course takes about a 100 hours to get through if you are passionate.
There was an error in the NOR and NAND gates lesson that threw me out for 2
days until I checked the site ( schematics where reversed)

Check out the author's site for more questions, answers and examples.
www.elxevilgenius.com

There is an Abra in Montreal Canada and one in the state of New-York, same
owner and they do most of their business on-line. Very reputable and cater
mostly to educational institutions.

The way the Navy course suggested in the other posts is outstanding!!!!! If
there is one thing where the military excel in it is course design. It is
thousands of pages so when I get confused on a concept in my Evil Genius
course I check out the Navy course. It is a theory course, no practical
experiments at all.

Are you lazy? I know I am so there is a 40 hour electronics course on
Youtube given by a university in India. The teacher Mr Natarajan has a bit
of an accent but the course is awesome. He power points the theory then
breadboards everything in front of you. Those 40 hours are worth 2 years of
school!!!!! The reason they did this very professional course is to be able
to train people in remote areas of India who can't get to a proper
institution. I would have paid good coin if they had charged for this
course.

If nothing above helps consider knitting )

Claude
Montreal

<danikar@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:217a24f3-3235-4c06-a004-bc7b6d847b1b@q27g2000prf.googlegroups.com...

I am looking to learn more about electronics and what not. I have
looked at a few books and purchased one. However, I didn't like it
that much.

I got Electronic Projects for Dummies. The book started off like I was
going to understand it, then I got to chapter 5 and it asked me to buy
a bunch of components to put together this project. Some of the items
on the list I couldn't find even in the online stores that they
suggested in the book. The project was a little above me anyway.

What I am looking for is a book that will explain a concept to me,
like capacitors. Then give a few circuits that demonstrate what they
just explained to me. Is there anything like that? Or, do you
generally have to read through a book that is all explanation then get
another book that has circuits you can play with?

Thanks in advanced!