Chip with simple program for Toy

[John Larkin]

On Thu, 17 Jan 2008 06:45:51 -0800 (PST), eromlignod
<eromlignod@aol.com> wrote:

Hi guys:

I'm an ME, so I have a basic knowledge of semiconductors, but not as
in-depth as you EE's.

When a diode is connected in reverse (the direction where current
doesn't flow), does it behave like an insulator or like a
semiconductor? In other words, does it have an extremely high
resistivity, like a dielectric, or does it just have a high
resistivity and pass some very small amount of current, like a
semiconductor?

I know about avalanche breakdown; that's not what I'm talking about.
I'm talking about at voltages below breakdown.

Thanks for any replies.

Don

Typically a nearly constant current, with a much less than resistive
slope, as JP states. Schottkies are leakier and more "resistive" than
silicon PN junctions. The reverse leakage current typically doubles
with every 10 degree C temp increase.

It can vary wildly between "identical" devices, especially power
diodes.

Some glass diodes are photosensitive, too!

John

 

[eromlignod]

Great Info. Thanks for the replies.

Should I assume that a transistor in its "off" state would exhibit
similar behaviour?

Don

 

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[NewsGroups]

The only winner in this picture is the moderator who gets paid a large
salary to
NEGOTIATE with the people. You will get better bargains at your local
retail stores.


"buyer" <mbbsNET@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:f15cf865-5c01-42a5-8987-100103edfc2b@e23g2000prf.googlegroups.com...

It is a three step process:

1. Buyers of same/similar items form a CLUB.
2. Invite sellers to bid on the club items - A REVERSE AUCTION.
3. Once the sellers bid, the moderator NEGOTIATES with the sellers for
a better price.

A new website with these features is being launched on 1/29/2008.

Wait for our announcement............

 

[Vince Morgan]

<tomythe@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:0ef3c621-e928-4eba-9d4a-d8dce57f1795@b2g2000hsg.googlegroups.com...

INTEGRITY CAN MAKE YOU EASY MONEY!! IT WILL!!! BUT YOU
HAVE TO FOLLOW IT TO A LETTER FOR IT TO WORK!!!!

What you are doing is creating a service by this. THIS IS ABSOLUTELY LEGAL!

You say it's legal, I say it's not, and that you are a liar!
Perhaps by integrity you have some abstract version of integrity that is not
immediately obvious.

#1) Elmer Howard
P.O. Box 462
Auburn, ME 04212

#2) Anthony Popante
1624 West 4th Street
Brooklyn, NY 11223

#3) CASTILLO
8011 N. 7th ST. #1035
PHOENIX, AZ 85020

#4) David Tran
2637 Ortega Street
San Francisco, Ca. 94122

#5) Sam Smith
50 rue Lortie
Gatinueau, QC J9H 4G5

#6) Derek Shu
243 Rainer Ave.
South San Francisco, Ca. 94080

Would you mind telling which one of the above is yours?

newsgroup! **REMEMBER, THE MORE NEWSGROUPS YOU POST IN, THE
MORE MONEY YOU WILL MAKE!! BUT YOU HAVE TO POST A MINIMUM
OF 200** That's it! You will begin reciving money from around the

In this day and age you may begin receiving something other than money too.
It aint new, it aint ethical, it aint legal, and anyone who tells anyone
otherwise is either very very foolish, or has no "INTEGRITY"!

 

[JeffM]

tomythe@ gmail.com wrote:
Vince Morgan wrote:

You say it's legal, I say it's not

You seem to think he has his receiver turned on.
Foolish assumption. It's all about spewing.
http://groups.google.com/groups/search?q=INTEGRITY-CAN-MAKE-YOU-EASY-MONEY&scoring=d&num=100

Report him to Google Groups and his ISP and get on with your life.

 

[Vince Morgan]

"JeffM" <jeffm_@email.com> wrote in message
news:7bd380cb-cbc4-468c-96c7-b85863dffd99@v17g2000hsa.googlegroups.com...

tomythe@ gmail.com wrote:
[SPAM REPOSTED]

Vince Morgan wrote:
You say it's legal, I say it's not

You seem to think he has his receiver turned on.
Foolish assumption. It's all about spewing.

http://groups.google.com/groups/search?q=INTEGRITY-CAN-MAKE-YOU-EASY-MONEY&scoring=d&num=100

Report him to Google Groups and his ISP and get on with your life.
Actually, it was for the sake of less experienced persons who might be

stupid enough to fall for this c..p.

 

[James Sweet]

"default" <default@defaulter.net> wrote in message
news:a0eeq35mll1sbolfg94hiv8p8iu0lnhlam@4ax.com...

I was at the hardware store shelling out $20 for an "infinite range
control." It is a proportioning control for an electric range burner.
It is primitive. A small 3 W heating element warms a bimetallic
leaf which moves a set of contacts, which opens the connection to the
range element and modulates the power.

I'm thinking it is stupid to keep replacing these things . . . I go
through one a year and its a hassle to change out or repair a broken
one.

What's the consensus on getting an ordinary $3 lamp dimmer and putting
a 40 amp triac on it and using that for element control? Anyone see
why it shouldn't work or what to look, look out for?

I've got a half dozen 40A 600 V triacs already mounted to heat sinks
that I got for free. Plan A: would be to just open the lamp dimmer
and wire the Triac in place of the one inside, and mount it outboard
on its heatsink. Perhaps changing the size of the phase shift
resistor to accommodate 240 instead of 120.

Plan B: But how about using the 120V lamp dimmer as-is? I would just
use it to trigger the heatsink mounted triac. Any idea if that
could/should work?

Any downside to using a phase control element instead of
proportioning? Would it cause my power bill to go up?

I figure I could do it safely.
--

Try it, see what happens, most range burners are 240V which may or may not
be ok for the dimmer, but so long as you keep an eye on it I don't think
anything too bad will happen.

 

[Bob Masta]

On Mon, 4 Feb 2008 23:06:25 -0800 (PST), bkh99 <btb1@sasktel.net>
wrote:

The two Pioneer spacecraft which were launched in the early
seventies,

have both been decelerating at a constant speed as they rise in the

sun's gravitational field (the rate of constant deceleration is

equivalent to the speed of light multiplied by Hubble's Constant).

Huh? Wherever did you get the idea that the Hubble constant has
anything whatsoever to do with solar gravitation?


Bob Masta

DAQARTA v3.50
Data AcQuisition And Real-Time Analysis
www.daqarta.com
Scope, Spectrum, Spectrogram, FREE Signal Generator
Science with your sound card!

 

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[JeffM]

jamesgangnc wrote:

I want to build the killer of all dog bark stoppers.
[...]we have neighbors with two dogs that they leave in a fenced yard
and they bark at anything that happens within a 1/2 mile day or night.)
[...]been thinking about running a bunch of the piezoes in series and[...]

....and, you think that AGGRAVATING the animals FURTHER
will make them QUIET.

There are surely laws on the books where you are
which deal directly with irresponsible pet owners
and with noise abatement.
Make 2 telephone calls, first to the police then to Animal Control.
After the authorities are finished talking to the people,
have the cop give you a copy of the report
which includes the case number and name of the responding officer.

If the problem happens again,
make the calls again, this time using the previous case number.
Request that the same cop respond.
The people will be given a date to appear in court
where they will pay (in money and time) for their bad behavior.
Get a copy of the report on this incident as well.

If it happens a 3rd time,
reference the 2 previous reports and request that the dogs be removed.

 

[jamesgangnc]

On Feb 13, 2:28 pm, JeffM <jef...@email.com> wrote:

jamesgangnc wrote:
I want to build the killer of all dog bark stoppers.
[...]we have neighbors with two dogs that they leave in a fenced yard
and they bark at anything that happens within a 1/2 mile day or night.)
[...]been thinking about running a bunch of the piezoes in series and[...]

...and, you think that AGGRAVATING the animals FURTHER
will make them QUIET.

There are surely laws on the books where you are
which deal directly with irresponsible pet owners
and with noise abatement.
Make 2 telephone calls, first to the police then to Animal Control.
After the authorities are finished talking to the people,
have the cop give you a copy of the report
which includes the case number and name of the responding officer.

If the problem happens again,
make the calls again, this time using the previous case number.
Request that the same cop respond.
The people will be given a date to appear in court
where they will pay (in money and time) for their bad behavior.
Get a copy of the report on this incident as well.

If it happens a 3rd time,
reference the 2 previous reports and request that the dogs be removed.

Actually the original device did work. They would stay away from the
section of the yard closest to our house if they barked while I was
using it. Problem was they continued to bark towards the back and on
the other side of the yard. That's why I want to crank up the power.
The original device creates a variable sound that fluctuates between
20 and 50 khz. It's trigger by loud, low frequency sounds. It might
aggravate dogs, but they definately will move away from the source of
the sound. I've seen it work. Some of our friends in a denser
neighborhood with small yards have one and if the dog next door to
them starts barking and sets it off, that dog goes straight back it's
house door and starts whining to get back in the house.

Noise abatement laws and enforcement vary from locality to locality.
In our area, police don't handle barking bogs, animal control does.
Like most places, our animal control is understaffed and often takes
hours to respond to a call if they ever do. If the dog in question in
not outside barking when they get there then it doesn't count. Just
because you report it does not matter. And there is very little
escalation even when they do find a barking dog.

So, you got any suggestions that would help me build a high power
current amp?

Sorry to the responsible dog owners out there if I've offended. But
some people just don't care that their dog barks at everything all
day.

 

[BobG]

The motorola peizo 'super horns' are capacitive in nature... thats why
you can hook them across a speaker... they self-cross over at about
2khz. They will tolerate about 20V. So get a +-20V sawtooth wave out
of a functioon generator and drive 4 or 8 of those tweeers in
parallel. Dont hook em up in series. Caps in series get smaller.

 

[John Fields]

On Wed, 13 Feb 2008 09:02:15 -0500, "jamesgangnc" <james@nospam.com>
wrote:

I want to build the killer of all dog bark stoppers. (Sorry to any dog lovers but we have neighbors with two dogs that they leave in a fenced yard and they bark at anything that happens within a 1/2 mile day or night.) I already have a device I bought that is tripped by barking and has a couple piezo tweeters in it. Not enough power though. I've got a power supply I salvaged out of some com gear that does 70 amps of +5 so I was thinking I could use some high current power transistors to run a whole bunch of those cheap piezo tweeters in parallel. I can adapt existing circuits and combine designs but designing from scratch is a little beyond my skills. Also I need parts suggestions for the power transistor. I know I need an amp design that has a lot of current gain, not voltage gain. And something I can run several of the amp circuits in parallel if I need to. I was planning to drive it from the output circuit of the existing bark stopper unit if I can. Otherwise if I need
to I can interject some opamps (741s) or common low power transistors like the 2n2222 or 2n2907s to drive. I have a old tectronix 5mhz scope and digital multi-meter and a collection of basic parts. Figuring I'll have to get the power transistors from newark.

I'd previously been thinking about running a bunch of the piezoes in series and using the 115v mains directly into dc with some sort of high voltage amp circuit but then this 70 amp 5v power supply came along. Figured it's be a lot safer that rectified mains.

Anyone want to give me some pointers?

---
Start by talking with your neighbors about the problem. Not just
the ones with the dogs, but also the ones around them who must also
surely be annoyed by the barking.

That way, if the dogs' owners decide to go belligerent and refuse to
quiet them you'll have a coalition whose complaints to animal
control will surely rouse them from the torpor you mentioned in
another thread.

--
JF

 

[Jamie]

JeffM wrote:

jamesgangnc wrote:

I want to build the killer of all dog bark stoppers.
[...]we have neighbors with two dogs that they leave in a fenced yard
and they bark at anything that happens within a 1/2 mile day or night.)
[...]been thinking about running a bunch of the piezoes in series and[...]


...and, you think that AGGRAVATING the animals FURTHER
will make them QUIET.

There are surely laws on the books where you are
which deal directly with irresponsible pet owners
and with noise abatement.
Make 2 telephone calls, first to the police then to Animal Control.
After the authorities are finished talking to the people,
have the cop give you a copy of the report
which includes the case number and name of the responding officer.

If the problem happens again,
make the calls again, this time using the previous case number.
Request that the same cop respond.
The people will be given a date to appear in court
where they will pay (in money and time) for their bad behavior.
Get a copy of the report on this incident as well.

If it happens a 3rd time,
reference the 2 previous reports and request that the dogs be removed.
Yup and mean while as this is going on, you'll get egged ,threaten,

harassed with no proof at all. They'll watch you like a hawk looking for
any little thing they can call you on..

It's not worth being a jerk with people that have miss behaved
animals. All that happens in the end is the animal ends up in a
place most likely destine for the bone yard. If you want that on
your conscience then fine, I guess that makes you no better than they
are.



--
"I'd rather have a bottle in front of me than a frontal lobotomy"

"Daily Thought:

SOME PEOPLE ARE LIKE SLINKIES. NOT REALLY GOOD FOR ANYTHING BUT
THEY BRING A SMILE TO YOUR FACE WHEN PUSHED DOWN THE STAIRS.
http://webpages.charter.net/jamie_5"

 

[Jamie]

jamesgangnc wrote:

I want to build the killer of all dog bark stoppers. (Sorry to any dog
lovers but we have neighbors with two dogs that they leave in a fenced
yard and they bark at anything that happens within a 1/2 mile day or
night.) I already have a device I bought that is tripped by barking and
has a couple piezo tweeters in it. Not enough power though. I've got a
power supply I salvaged out of some com gear that does 70 amps of +5 so
I was thinking I could use some high current power transistors to run a
whole bunch of those cheap piezo tweeters in parallel. I can adapt
existing circuits and combine designs but designing from scratch is a
little beyond my skills. Also I need parts suggestions for the power
transistor. I know I need an amp design that has a lot of current gain,
not voltage gain. And something I can run several of the amp
circuits in parallel if I need to. I was planning to drive it from the
output circuit of the existing bark stopper unit if I can. Otherwise if
I need to I can interject some opamps (741s) or common low power
transistors like the 2n2222 or 2n2907s to drive. I have a old tectronix
5mhz scope and digital multi-meter and a collection of basic parts.
Figuring I'll have to get the power transistors from newark.

I'd previously been thinking about running a bunch of the piezoes in
series and using the 115v mains directly into dc with some sort of
high voltage amp circuit but then this 70 amp 5v power supply came
along. Figured it's be a lot safer that rectified mains.

Anyone want to give me some pointers?
Instead of doing all this crap which will most likely stir up more of a

mess.
Work out something with your neighbor to place barking collars on the
dogs until the dogs understand the limits of barking.
once that is done. The collars can be removed and fake one's put on..

It does work!.

What you're doing is not only hurting their ears but the ears of other
animals that are not causing a problem and thus does make others
actually bark in the attempt to kill the noise.

--
"I'd rather have a bottle in front of me than a frontal lobotomy"

http://webpages.charter.net/jamie_5"

 

[jamesgangnc]

Been thoses routes, ineffective. The unit I got made more progress to
fixing the problem that anything else. I just want to extend it's range.
Got any suggestions for a high current transistor and amp circuit that would
let me leverage this 5volt power supply?

"John Fields" <jfields@austininstruments.com> wrote in message
news:3137r3tme5j1m7rate8q2c5otdera66hdf@4ax.com...

On Wed, 13 Feb 2008 09:02:15 -0500, "jamesgangnc" <james@nospam.com
wrote:

I want to build the killer of all dog bark stoppers. (Sorry to any dog
lovers but we have neighbors with two dogs that they leave in a fenced
yard and they bark at anything that happens within a 1/2 mile day or
night.) I already have a device I bought that is tripped by barking and
has a couple piezo tweeters in it. Not enough power though. I've got a
power supply I salvaged out of some com gear that does 70 amps of +5 so I
was thinking I could use some high current power transistors to run a
whole bunch of those cheap piezo tweeters in parallel. I can adapt
existing circuits and combine designs but designing from scratch is a
little beyond my skills. Also I need parts suggestions for the power
transistor. I know I need an amp design that has a lot of current gain,
not voltage gain. And something I can run several of the amp circuits in
parallel if I need to. I was planning to drive it from the output circuit
of the existing bark stopper unit if I can. Otherwise if I need
to I can interject some opamps (741s) or common low power transistors like
the 2n2222 or 2n2907s to drive. I have a old tectronix 5mhz scope and
digital multi-meter and a collection of basic parts. Figuring I'll have
to get the power transistors from newark.

I'd previously been thinking about running a bunch of the piezoes in
series and using the 115v mains directly into dc with some sort of high
voltage amp circuit but then this 70 amp 5v power supply came along.
Figured it's be a lot safer that rectified mains.

Anyone want to give me some pointers?

---
Start by talking with your neighbors about the problem. Not just
the ones with the dogs, but also the ones around them who must also
surely be annoyed by the barking.

That way, if the dogs' owners decide to go belligerent and refuse to
quiet them you'll have a coalition whose complaints to animal
control will surely rouse them from the torpor you mentioned in
another thread.

--
JF

 

[jamesgangnc]

Neighbors could care less. They wouldn;t put bark collars on their dogs if
I paid for them. Besides these units are just another form of conditioning,
they bark, the noise starts. It shuts off by it's slef after a minute or so
until they bark again. I just need to extend the range. Got some
suggestions for a power transistor and circuit that would let me leverage
this big 5v power supply I have?

"Jamie" <jamie_ka1lpa_not_valid_after_ka1lpa_@charter.net> wrote in message
news:yvMsj.58$El3.18@newsfe06.lga...

jamesgangnc wrote:

I want to build the killer of all dog bark stoppers. (Sorry to any dog
lovers but we have neighbors with two dogs that they leave in a fenced
yard and they bark at anything that happens within a 1/2 mile day or
night.) I already have a device I bought that is tripped by barking and
has a couple piezo tweeters in it. Not enough power though. I've got a
power supply I salvaged out of some com gear that does 70 amps of +5 so I
was thinking I could use some high current power transistors to run a
whole bunch of those cheap piezo tweeters in parallel. I can adapt
existing circuits and combine designs but designing from scratch is a
little beyond my skills. Also I need parts suggestions for the power
transistor. I know I need an amp design that has a lot of current gain,
not voltage gain. And something I can run several of the amp circuits in
parallel if I need to. I was planning to drive it from the output
circuit of the existing bark stopper unit if I can. Otherwise if I need
to I can interject some opamps (741s) or common low power transistors
like the 2n2222 or 2n2907s to drive. I have a old tectronix 5mhz scope
and digital multi-meter and a collection of basic parts. Figuring I'll
have to get the power transistors from newark. I'd previously been
thinking about running a bunch of the piezoes in series and using the
115v mains directly into dc with some sort of high voltage amp circuit
but then this 70 amp 5v power supply came along. Figured it's be a lot
safer that rectified mains.
Anyone want to give me some pointers?
Instead of doing all this crap which will most likely stir up more of a
mess.
Work out something with your neighbor to place barking collars on the
dogs until the dogs understand the limits of barking.
once that is done. The collars can be removed and fake one's put on..

It does work!.

What you're doing is not only hurting their ears but the ears of other
animals that are not causing a problem and thus does make others actually
bark in the attempt to kill the noise.

--
"I'd rather have a bottle in front of me than a frontal lobotomy"

http://webpages.charter.net/jamie_5"

 

[amdx]

"Jon Slaughter" <Jon_Slaughter@Hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:383xj.14171$R84.7982@newssvr25.news.prodigy.net...

"John Fields" <jfields@austininstruments.com> wrote in message
news:9iv8s39v98piqf4qsqv3ud7n3cu6p7kjf2@4ax.com...
On Tue, 26 Feb 2008 18:24:30 GMT, "Jon Slaughter"
Jon_Slaughter@Hotmail.com> wrote:


"John Fields" <jfields@austininstruments.com> wrote in message
news:ssq5s3t2trdn67m2uosqt9ic55hn49b5hl@4ax.com...
On Mon, 25 Feb 2008 08:11:52 -0600, "Jon Slaughter"
Jon_Slaughter@Hotmail.com> wrote:


"amdx" <amdx@knology.net> wrote in message
news:5fe78$47c2b7ac$18d6b40c$13581@KNOLOGY.NET...

"davidt" <dav1d@talktalk.net> wrote in message
news:cc842a62-c98b-44de-a743-4e2b99a6c09c@o77g2000hsf.googlegroups.com...
I have an transformer from a old power supply.
It has 2 red wires and 2 yellow wires.
I think the red wires are the high voltage (mains) in and the yellow
the low voltage (12v ?) out,
To check this I touched a 6V battery across the yellow wires and got
a
high voltage across the red wires (enought to spark across a 3mm
gap)
But when I measure the resistance across the red wires I get
31.1ohms
and across the yellow 10.4ohms.
This is not what I expected.
I thought the high voltage winding would be thicker wire and less
turns than the low voltage winding and so would have a lower
resistance.
Could anyone explain where I am going wrong?

You have it backwards. The high voltage side will have more turns
of smaller wire. (it carries less current) The low voltage side will
have
less turns if thicker wire. (it carries more current)


Only smaller wire because the current requirements are smaller. There
is
no
restriction on the wire size for a transformer except that it be able
to
handle the current. (so it definitely could have been larger)

---
Sure, but since what a transformer does is transfer _power_ from one
winding to another, the product of current and voltage have to be
the same for both windings.

So, if the voltage in one winding is higher than in another, then
the current in the high-voltage winding _must_ be less than in the
low-voltage winding and it would be pointless to use wire with a
diameter more than that required to carry the current.

More precisely, for a lossless transformer:

Np Ep Is
---- = ---- = ----
Ns Es Ip

Where: Np is the number of turns on the primary,
Ns is the number of turns on the secondary,
Ep is the voltage impressed across the primary,
Es is the voltage induced across the secondary,
Ip is the current forced through the primary, and
Is is the current into the load



And why not Np/Ns = D_Rs/D_Rp where D_Rx is the diameter? or even Np/Ns =
Rs/Rp?

---
Because the turns ratio has nothing to do with the resistance ratio.
---

The fact of the matter is that it doesn't matter as long as the as the
wire
can carry the current(which essentially means heat dissipation).

---
Well, no. What _really_ matters is the resistance of the winding,
since that'll determine the voltage dropped across it, and that
voltage won't be able to be used by the load. While the I˛R losses
increase the winding's resistance, it's not usually enough to
matter much. For a clue, take a look at the temperature coefficient
of resistance of copper and translate that to the change in
resistance of a winding due to the change in temp. In any case, the
temp rise because of I˛R losses should be taken care of during the
design of the transformer and the proper wire size chosen to give
the desired regulation at that maximum temperature.
---

You can use any wire size in any circumstance and its not *pointless*.

---
You _cannot_ use any wire size in any application and expect the
application to work. For example, it would be pointless to wind a
secondary expected to supply 12 volts at 10 amperes with a single
strand of #40 AWG.
---

It depends on the application.

---
Precisely. And, for the transformer the OP was talking about,
(which he was using as a stepup transformer to get the results he
did) it would have been pointless to have wound the high-voltage
winding with larger diameter wire than the low-voltage winding.

No! Why you think he is winding anything? They are already wound and it
was wound for a specific application. In general you are correct in that
for a step up the wire diameter will be smaller because there is less
current. The point I'm trying to make is that it is not a necessary or
sufficient requirement for step up transformers. maybe in 99.999% of
transfomers it will hold but even then there is no "formula" to calculate
the diameter of the secondary from the primary or vice versa.


I could easily make a transformer that would violate your "principle" and
it would work fine! Sure it might be cost or space inefficient but the
tranformer itself doesn't care.

Now you say "Well if its too small then it will over heat"!! This has
nothing to do with basic ideal transformer theory which says nothing about
wire's resistances or anything. Hell, if I wanted I could then just use
super conducting material and use infinitely thin wire on both sides!!


---

True that you pretty never need a larger
diameter on the secondary than the primary in a step up... but
potentially
there is still the possibility in certain applications. (such as if the
secondary happens to be in a much much hotter environment)

---
Like where??? You're grasping at straws.


I think thats what you are doing. You are trying to make the OP think that
the diameter matters and gives a good approximation to the turns ratio and
it doesn't. Go take a transformer and measure the diameters then take the
ratio and I bet you won't get a good approximation to the turns ratio! I
DARE YOU!

Since I know you are chicken I did it for you. I have a tranformer on my
desk. Its a step down from 120:12(approximately) so its about 10:1.

The diameter of the primary is 100mil, the diameter of the secondary is 40
mil.... hmmm, is this 10:1 or 1:10? not even close!

So your transformer has #10 wire on the primary and #18 wire on the

secondary? I think your secondary will have about 60% or less of the
resistance of the primary.
Please post the resistances of the primary and secondary windings, that way
I can see how I misled the questioner.
What is the use for this transformer? It's not like anything I'm used to
seeing.
Thanks, Mike