Chip with simple program for Toy

[Dmitri(Cabling-Design.com]

Jamie wrote:

I guess working 21 years in a lab
performing Lost, Skin, Radiated, and velocity
tests in a work area that has made
electronic wire and cables for 50 years
isn't enough ?
To let you in on something, our
facility was one of the first to
start massive manufacturing of CAT 4,5
and the like along with the foam pairs
bundled with twisted pairs of control
wires etc...
high levels of DC currents pulsing
over long runs bundled in the same
race way with no form of EMF shielded
does un-balance the Twisted pairs there
by influencing the signal.

Jamie,

I hope you still re-visit this old post from time to time.
I'd like to learn more about the tests you are referring to. What kind of
currents you are talking about? What do you refer to by pulsing DC in this
case, switching loads? What frequency? What type of load? What was the
distance between the cable with DC current and the twisted pair? What was
the length of the samples? What kind of raceway used? What was the UTP
terminated on, and how did you measure the mis-balance?
From your post I got a feeling that you were talking about tests conveyed
quite a few years back, so I'm sure you'll open no trade secrets by
posting here (or in comp.dcom.cabling to that matter). Very interesting
stuff, please continue this thread.

--
Dmitri Abaimov, RCDD
http://www.cabling-design.com
Cabling Forum, color codes, pinouts and other useful resources for
premises cabling users and pros
http://www.cabling-design.com/homecabling
Residential Cabling Guide
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[Robert Monsen]

Randy Gross wrote:

OK! Back to the future.

I think I've found a regulator that might fit the application. It is
the LM338. There is only one concern I have with applying it to my
purpose, the 6amp input. According to the LM338 datasheet, the
regulator has an output range "in excess" of 5A but, I could'nt
determine how much, sustained. The LM338 can handle surges up to 12A
but I'm thinking this is momentary. Could I parallel two LM338s' to
split the current and adjust them with one var. res. as in the
following circuit:

----------
| LM338 |
----|I O|------
| | A | |
| ---------- |
----------------| |______ |---------------
| | | | | |
12 vdc | | ---------- | | R R1 |
| | | LM338 | | | R 120 |
6A | ----|I O|------ R |
| | A | | | +|
CAP ---------- | | CAP
.01mf |------- | 1mf
| |-------------- |
| | +| |
| R2 R 5K CAP |
| --R-> 10mf |
| R | |
| | | |
--GND----------------------------------------------

or, can I increase the value of the current set resistor ( R1 ) to
lower the maximum current through the regulator.

Randy

I don't know whether parallel LM338s will work. It might work properly.

However, here is a 5A adjustable voltage/current regulator that might
work for you. Look on pg 16.

http://cache.national.com/ds/LM/LM117.pdf

--
Regards,
Robert Monsen

"Your Highness, I have no need of this hypothesis."
- Pierre Laplace (1749-1827), to Napoleon,
on why his works on celestial mechanics make no mention of God.

 

[Joel Kolstad]

Thanks for the pointer, Mr. Phantom; I'll look up the references.

This topic seems a little advanced for this group, but no matter.

I'm all for suggestions for other groups. Unlike, say, the Physics
newsgroups, most of the electronics newsgroups are design related and none
are really theory related... but I figured 'basic' was as close as I could
get.

You will find what you are looking for in most any textbook on
network synthesis, such as Guillemin or Van Valkenburg for example.

Even with regards to S parameters?

Thanks again,
---Joel

 

[The Phantom]

On Sun, 7 Nov 2004 22:27:37 -0800, "Joel Kolstad"
<JKolstad71HatesSpam@Yahoo.Com> wrote:

Thanks for the pointer, Mr. Phantom; I'll look up the references.

This topic seems a little advanced for this group, but no matter.

I'm all for suggestions for other groups. Unlike, say, the Physics
newsgroups, most of the electronics newsgroups are design related and none
are really theory related... but I figured 'basic' was as close as I could
get.

You will find what you are looking for in most any textbook on
network synthesis, such as Guillemin or Van Valkenburg for example.

Even with regards to S parameters?

Not in the older texts such as Guillemin and Van Valkenburg. The
newer texts probably, but I don't have any in my personal library, so
I can't be sure.

Thanks again,
---Joel

 

[Bill Bowden]

jean@vaneskahian.com (Jean-Marie Vaneskahian) wrote in message news:<d8760c10.0411081323.58077465@posting.google.com>...

I Need To Trigger a Relay When an LED Lights Up On a Smoke Detector

My goal is to use simple battery operated combination Smoke / Carbon
Monoxide detectors in various parts of my house. I want these battery
operated detectors to trigger a simple contact closure when they
alarm.

I noticed that the detectors have a Red LED that lights up when the
Smoke / Carbon Monoxide detector is triggered. I soldered two small
wires to the PCB on the back of the detector in "parallel" with the
Red LED.

When I connect a voltmeter to the two wires I soldered in "parallel"
with the Red LED and now run from the back of the PCB of the Smoke /
Carbon Monoxide detector I get about +0.001V when nothing happens and
+1.78V when I hit the test button on the Smoke / Carbon Monoxide
detector. By the way, the Smoke / Carbon Monoxide detector runs on a
total of 3 AAA 1.5V batteries.

I have a very basic electronics understanding. One concept that I do
NOT understand is that of "Ground". I do understand how to "Wire"
components though.

Ground is just a reference point from which all voltage
measurments are made. Usually ground is the negative side of the
battery or power supply. So, if you measure 1.78 volts from
the negative side of the batteries to the LED, it means
the negative side of the LED is probably grounded or connectd
to the barrery (-).

If this is the case, you might be able to drive a small
relay with a transistor and resistor and diode.
Something like below might work if the relay coil current
is less than 50mA. There also should be a diode in parallel
with the relay coil (not shown). The cathode of the diode
goes to the top (+4.5). You can also use a higher voltage
if needed, for a 12 volt relay for example.


+4.5
|
|
Relay
|
C
510 |/
+---\/\/\----B| NPN (2N3904)
| |\
LED E
| |
| |
GND GND



-Bill

My question is this:

How do I take the 2 wires running from the back of the PCB on the
Smoke / Carbon Monoxide detector and generate a basic dry "Contact
Closure" when the detector is triggered?

I am sure this requires transistors, diodes, resistors, reed switches
and a separate battery source, but I have no clue how to connect them
and what types and values to purchase. I buy most of these components
from Radio Shack (Part Numbers Would Be Great!).

Please help me put this together. I really appreciate any wisdom on
this topic. My goal is to protect my family by wiring these battery
operated Smoke / Carbon Monoxide detectors to my home alarm system
that uses contact closures.

Thanks a million in advance,
Jean-Marie Vaneskahian
jean@vaneskahian.com

 

[Jean-Marie Vaneskahian]

I understood this perfectly!!! Thanks a million I will try this and
let you know if it worked! I guess I just need to use a 9V relay.

Jean-Marie

Robert Monsen <rcsurname@comcast.net> wrote in message news:<EhWjd.17193$5K2.8773@attbi_s03>...

Jean-Marie Vaneskahian wrote:
I Need To Trigger a Relay When an LED Lights Up On a Smoke Detector

My goal is to use simple battery operated combination Smoke / Carbon
Monoxide detectors in various parts of my house. I want these battery
operated detectors to trigger a simple contact closure when they
alarm.

I noticed that the detectors have a Red LED that lights up when the
Smoke / Carbon Monoxide detector is triggered. I soldered two small
wires to the PCB on the back of the detector in "parallel" with the
Red LED.

When I connect a voltmeter to the two wires I soldered in "parallel"
with the Red LED and now run from the back of the PCB of the Smoke /
Carbon Monoxide detector I get about +0.001V when nothing happens and
+1.78V when I hit the test button on the Smoke / Carbon Monoxide
detector. By the way, the Smoke / Carbon Monoxide detector runs on a
total of 3 AAA 1.5V batteries.

I have a very basic electronics understanding. One concept that I do
NOT understand is that of "Ground". I do understand how to "Wire"
components though.

My question is this:

How do I take the 2 wires running from the back of the PCB on the
Smoke / Carbon Monoxide detector and generate a basic dry "Contact
Closure" when the detector is triggered?

I am sure this requires transistors, diodes, resistors, reed switches
and a separate battery source, but I have no clue how to connect them
and what types and values to purchase. I buy most of these components
from Radio Shack (Part Numbers Would Be Great!).

Please help me put this together. I really appreciate any wisdom on
this topic. My goal is to protect my family by wiring these battery
operated Smoke / Carbon Monoxide detectors to my home alarm system
that uses contact closures.


This sounds like a fun project.

One thing to consider is that you probably won't be able to power the
relay open using the current through the LED. If you are willing to use
a separate battery, however, then there is an easy way to do this.

Define the ground to be the more negative side of the LED. (Note: you
can define ground to be anything. It's just the point you measure other
voltages against)

Then, attach one side of a 4.7k resistor to the positive side of the
LED, and the other side to the base of an NPN transistor. Attach the
emitter of the NPN to the negative side of the LED. Now, when the LED
turns on, it'll allow current to flow through the transistor.

Hook the negative terminal of a 9V battery to the emitter of the
transistor, and the positive side to one side of the coil for the relay.
Hook the other coil of the relay to the collector of the NPN transistor.

Now, when the LED is on, the transistor will allow current to flow, so
current will flow in a circuit through the relay coil, the transistor
and the 9V battery. This should cause the relay to open.

 

[Jean-Marie Vaneskahian]

What is the value of the resistor?

wrongaddress@att.net (Bill Bowden) wrote in message news:<ad025737.0411082128.40384a8e@posting.google.com>...

jean@vaneskahian.com (Jean-Marie Vaneskahian) wrote in message news:<d8760c10.0411081323.58077465@posting.google.com>...
I Need To Trigger a Relay When an LED Lights Up On a Smoke Detector

My goal is to use simple battery operated combination Smoke / Carbon
Monoxide detectors in various parts of my house. I want these battery
operated detectors to trigger a simple contact closure when they
alarm.

I noticed that the detectors have a Red LED that lights up when the
Smoke / Carbon Monoxide detector is triggered. I soldered two small
wires to the PCB on the back of the detector in "parallel" with the
Red LED.

When I connect a voltmeter to the two wires I soldered in "parallel"
with the Red LED and now run from the back of the PCB of the Smoke /
Carbon Monoxide detector I get about +0.001V when nothing happens and
+1.78V when I hit the test button on the Smoke / Carbon Monoxide
detector. By the way, the Smoke / Carbon Monoxide detector runs on a
total of 3 AAA 1.5V batteries.

I have a very basic electronics understanding. One concept that I do
NOT understand is that of "Ground". I do understand how to "Wire"
components though.


Ground is just a reference point from which all voltage
measurments are made. Usually ground is the negative side of the
battery or power supply. So, if you measure 1.78 volts from
the negative side of the batteries to the LED, it means
the negative side of the LED is probably grounded or connectd
to the barrery (-).

If this is the case, you might be able to drive a small
relay with a transistor and resistor and diode.
Something like below might work if the relay coil current
is less than 50mA. There also should be a diode in parallel
with the relay coil (not shown). The cathode of the diode
goes to the top (+4.5). You can also use a higher voltage
if needed, for a 12 volt relay for example.


+4.5
|
|
Relay
|
C
510 |/
+---\/\/\----B| NPN (2N3904)
| |\
LED E
| |
| |
GND GND



-Bill


My question is this:

How do I take the 2 wires running from the back of the PCB on the
Smoke / Carbon Monoxide detector and generate a basic dry "Contact
Closure" when the detector is triggered?

I am sure this requires transistors, diodes, resistors, reed switches
and a separate battery source, but I have no clue how to connect them
and what types and values to purchase. I buy most of these components
from Radio Shack (Part Numbers Would Be Great!).

Please help me put this together. I really appreciate any wisdom on
this topic. My goal is to protect my family by wiring these battery
operated Smoke / Carbon Monoxide detectors to my home alarm system
that uses contact closures.

Thanks a million in advance,
Jean-Marie Vaneskahian
jean@vaneskahian.com

 

[Bill Bowden]

jean@vaneskahian.com (Jean-Marie Vaneskahian) wrote in message news:<d8760c10.0411090757.6a10d925@posting.google.com>...

What is the value of the resistor?

It's labeled 510 which is 510 ohms. But I'm assuming
the LED is running near 20mA so the resistor only bleeds
off a couple mA and doesn't upset things too much.
If the LED draws much less than 20mA, you may need a larger
resistor and a extra transistor.

-Bill

 

[Joe]

Randy,

No problem. The applications I saw and used Rogowski's were in the VLF
band and the bandwidth required was alot smaller than the application you
described.


--
Joe
http://www.fcctests.com

"Randy Gross" <aaawelder@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:d76ab107.0411021428.6fb1b861@posting.google.com...

Thanks Joe,

I understand the "Rogowski Coil". I ran across its mention on a site
that was using a light-gas gun in an attempt to compress hydrogen gas
into hydrogen metal. The results of the test were instantaneous and I
could not determine wether the attempt succeeded. The "Rogowski Coil"
was used in the test circuitry.

Randy


"Joe" <joe@tech-service.net> wrote in message
news:<0CBhd.84008$CT6.22367@sam.nntpserver.com>...
Randy,

From the other website, it describes the rogowski as ...

The Rogowski coil is an electrical device for measuring alternating
current
(AC). It consists of a helical coil of wire with the lead from one end
returning through the centre of the coil to the other end, so that both
terminals are at the same end of the coil. The whole assembly is then
wrapped around a straight conductor. A voltage is induced in the coil
proportional to the rate of change of current in the straight conductor.

The Rogowski has an output ... which in the case of the spec8000, it's
permanently attached to the integrator. The input is the
electromagnetic
field generated by the current down the conductor which has the rogowski
wrapped around it.

Joe
http://www.fcctests.com

"Randy Gross" <aaawelder@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:d76ab107.0410312137.7fd428b7@posting.google.com...
Spec8000.pdf contains a definitive explanation of the Rogowski Coil
except for one ambiguous area: the flexible coil was defined as having
an electrical connection at only one end, which is a bit confusing
because of traditional circuit paths: "Input" and "Output". Have I
misread?

Randy

"Joe" <joe@tech-service.net> wrote in message
news:<SaNgd.73757$CT6.45793@sam.nntpserver.com>...
Visit http://www.fact-index.com/r/ro/rogowski_coil.html

or for some rogowski specs http://www.rocoil.cwc.net/Spec8000.PDF


--
Joe
http://www.fcctests.com

"Randy Gross" <aaawelder@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:d76ab107.0410292116.1945e7b5@posting.google.com...
I am trying to gain a better understanding of the principles of
the
Rogowski coil.
I understand that an AC current carrying conductor running through
this coil induces a voltage in the coil proportional to the rate
of
change of current in the conductor which can be measured with a
DVM.
What I'm having a problem with is the integrator associated with
its
use. Is this necessary for frequencies above 60HZ or any range?
Can
this coil be calibrated to read say 1vac at 1amp AC 60HZ as a
basis
and then be used over a wider range?

Wondering

 

[Steve Evans]

On Tue, 09 Nov 2004 23:09:12 GMT,
info_at_cabling-design_dot_com@foo.com (Dmitri(Cabling-Design.com))
wrote:

And, I think the biggest question is: should I even bother messing around
with SMD components on a hobbyist level?

Thank you all responded!

You don't have much choice but to get sutck into them if you are to
have any future in electronics, even as a hobbyinst.
--

Fat, sugar, salt, beer: the four essentials for a healthy diet.

 

[Roger Johansson]

info_at_cabling-design_dot_com@foo.com (Dmitri(Cabling-Design.com))
wrote:

And, I think the biggest question is: should I even bother messing
around with SMD components on a hobbyist level?

Yes, they are actually more convenient in many ways. No need for
drilling, for example.

I do protype boards and simple projects by taking a piece of pcb board,
use a sharp file or similar tool to make grooves in it, dividing the
copper layer into different parts, nodes, rubbing it with scotch-brite
kitchen pad to clean off the oxide, and then solder smd components
between these islands of copper.

I use a simple soldering iron with a very fine tip. I hold down the
component in the right position while soldering one connection, then
solder the other connection(s).

I often mix older types of components with smd components.
The older components can be mounted without holes too, with some
mechanical bending of its wires. Older chips can be laid on its back,
with the legs up in the air, looking like a dead bug.

For some inspiration on pcb techniques look up
"dead bug" "manhattan style"
on google.

Add smd components to such innovative styles of building circuit boards
and you have a lot of variations to combine in any way you like.

You can create smaller and neater bords by photographic methods and
etching, but they are more difficult to change and need a lot more effort.
The size and look are usually not important because the board will be
hidden inside a box.


--
Roger J.

 

[Dmitri(Cabling-Design.com]

John Larkin wrote:

If you're doing quantities, solder paste the pads (syringe or better
yet stencil), goosh down the parts, and reflow in an oven. Or buy a
ceramic-base part.

John

Hi John,

Don't mean to be a pain in the neck, but can you elaborate on "reflow in
an oven"? Would this be something I can attempt in a residential setup?

--
Dmitri Abaimov, RCDD
http://www.cabling-design.com
Cabling Forum, color codes, pinouts and other useful resources for
premises cabling users and pros
http://www.cabling-design.com/homecabling
Residential Cabling Guide
-------------------------------------


##-----------------------------------------------##
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[Roger Johansson]

Roger Johansson <no-email@home.se> wrote:

All smd component can stand the heat from a small soldering iron for a
few seconds.

For leds, make sure you heat the solder and the copper surface first,
making them flow together. Then move the little drop of solder to the
contact of the led and remove the soldering iron quickly.

Use as little solder as possible.


--
Roger J.

 

[John Larkin]

On Wed, 10 Nov 2004 03:57:21 GMT,
info_at_cabling-design_dot_com@foo.com (Dmitri(Cabling-Design.com))
wrote:

John Larkin wrote:

If you're doing quantities, solder paste the pads (syringe or better
yet stencil), goosh down the parts, and reflow in an oven. Or buy a
ceramic-base part.

John

Hi John,

Don't mean to be a pain in the neck, but can you elaborate on "reflow in
an oven"? Would this be something I can attempt in a residential setup?

I think people use toaster ovens. Try googling "toaster oven surface
mount" or something. Heat is heat, although the time-temperature
profile should be controlled pretty well to properly reflow solder
paste. I've heard of people doing BGAs at home in a toaster oven, but
that scares even me.

An array of surfmount led's, solder pasted, placed, reflowed in an
oven shouldn't be too nasty. Hey, try it!

John

 

[Dmitri(Cabling-Design.com]

Roger Johansson wrote:

Roger Johansson <no-email@home.se> wrote:

All smd component can stand the heat from a small soldering iron
for a
few seconds.

For leds, make sure you heat the solder and the copper surface first,
making them flow together. Then move the little drop of solder to the
contact of the led and remove the soldering iron quickly.

Use as little solder as possible.

Thanks again, Roger.

I'm getting some SMD LEDs on eBay right now, will hopefully try to solder
them pretty soon.

--
Dmitri Abaimov, RCDD
http://www.cabling-design.com
Cabling Forum, color codes, pinouts and other useful resources for
premises cabling users and pros
http://www.cabling-design.com/homecabling
Residential Cabling Guide
-------------------------------------




##-----------------------------------------------##
Article posted with Cabling-Design.com Newsgroup Archive
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[Terry Pinnell]

jean@vaneskahian.com (Jean-Marie Vaneskahian) wrote:

Thanks so much Terry! Your diagrams are great! I will look for a
trigger point that gives me the full 4.5V as you reccomended. I
really appreciate your time and expertise.

Just to give you an idea of what I am doing. I have a house full of
hardwired 120V AC smoke detectors that are all wired to each other and
are also wired to my alarm system via a relay.

I am adding Carbon Monoxide detectors to certain parts of the house.
I have these small wireless Caddx Alarm system transmitters that
detect a contact closure that have these simple screw down terminals
that were designed to wirelessly monitor doors and windows. I thought
I could use these same wireless Caddx Alarm system transmitters to
detect the status of the Carbon Monoxide detectors based on the RED
Alarm LED.

Since all I need is a simple contact closure a reed relay that
operates at a low voltage should work.

I will take your advice and map out how the Carbon Monoxide detector
works using the DMM. Thanks a million!!!

Jean-Marie

OK, let us know how you get on.

I didn't see any response to the question about warranty invalidation
that others raised? If that *is* an issue, you might consider the
alternative LDR suggestion. To check its feasibility, get an ORP12 or
similar, connect it in series with say a 100 ohm resistor (to protect
it against too much current in case of inadvertent intense
illumination), connect a DMM set to resistance across the combination,
and experiment. With the LDR carefully positioned inside the case,
close to the rear of the LED, see if you can get a significant
variation (say 2 to 1 or better) between inactive and active states.
And of course there must be no significant resistance change due to
*external* illumination; in practice I suspect that might be hard to
achieve for a CO detector positioned close to bright indoor lighting
or a sun-facing window.

Alternatively, assuming the CO detectors have an audible alarm, John's
sound detector approach is another option, although with similar
practical difficulties.

If warranty is *not* an issue, the direct wiring approach is by far
the simplest solution.

BTW, where do you live - a thatched cottage next door to a steel
foundry? <g>

--
Terry Pinnell
Hobbyist, West Sussex, UK

 

[John Fields]

On Wed, 03 Nov 2004 18:10:52 -0800, Peter Bennett
<peterbb@somewhere.invalid> wrote:

On Wed, 03 Nov 2004 17:29:41 -0600, John Fields
jfields@austininstruments.com> wrote:


R2 and R3 are in parallel, and to determine the total resistance of
the pair we can write:



R2 * R3
Rt = ---------
R2 + R3


Where Rt is the total resistance of the pair.


For your digital multimeter, with a 10M input resistance we'll get:



R2 * R3 20 * 10E6
Rt = --------- = ---------- = 19 999 960 ohms
R2 + R3 20 + 10e6

Watch those pesky periods! That should be 19.999 960 ohms

---
Ooops...

Yup, I straightened it out later on in the post but never came back
and fixed it here. Thanks.

--
John Fields

 

[Steve Evans]

On Wed, 10 Nov 2004 04:53:08 GMT,
info_at_cabling-design_dot_com@foo.com (Dmitri(Cabling-Design.com))
wrote:

I'm getting some SMD LEDs on eBay right now, will hopefully try to solder
them pretty soon.

Do yourself a favor and buy a few dozen SMD capacitors or resistors at
the same time. They're great to practice the technique with and it
doesn't matter if you damage them since they're *so* cheap. When your
confidence is gained, go on to the LEDs.

--

Fat, sugar, salt, beer: the four essentials for a healthy diet.

 

[John Fields]

On 2 Nov 2004 21:22:51 -0800, tek1940@hotmail.com (George) wrote:

More questions,

Your example with 20 ohm load shows R1 (battery internal resistance)
remaining at 1 ohm.
Your earlier post indicated R1 changes according to the load.

I may have missed something, but how do you measure R1?

---
You don't, really. You measure the voltage across the load, the
current through the load and then, using Ohm's law, calculate what the
resistance should be for that current if you had the full battery
voltage across the load. The difference between that resistance and
the actual load resistance will be the internal resistance of the
battery. Also, the difference between the measured voltage and the
full battery voltage multiplied by the current should be the internal
resistance of the battery. That is, both readings should be the same.
I think...

The example was just that, an example. If you calculate the internal
resistance with different load currents it'll change.

--
John Fields

 

[John Popelish]

ShadowTek wrote:

I just bought 50 3.2V 20mA white LEDs for about $30US total off of
EBay.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=66952&item=3847009435&rd=1&ssPageName=WDVW
I tried to read up on electrical stuff but there is a lot I dont
understand.
For instance, if I use 2 1.5V AA betteries in a series that are 3 Amps
each,

Saying that the batteries are 3 amps each is a bit nonsensical.
Batteries have an internal resistance (that consumes some of the
voltage as current passes through it and limits the short circuit
current to the value that uses up all of the voltage across the
internal resistance) and batteries have an ampere hour rating that
generally tells how much current it can supply for how long before it
is exhausted. Cut the current in half and the life approximately
doubles.

...then is the output 3 Amps or 6 Amps?

If you are talking about short circuit current, it stays the same, 3
amps, because each cell drops its entire internal voltage across its
internal resistance at its short circuit current.

I know voltage doubles when connecting cells in a series but what
about current?

Connecting cells in series doubles the total internal resistance while
providing not more capacity (ampere hours).

Assumeing that the total current of the two batteries were 3 Amps,
does that mean that these 2 batteries alone could power 150 of these
3V 20mA LEDs if the LEDs were connected in series?

Not if the 3 amperes is a short circuit current rating, That is the
current that reduces the battery voltage to zero, so it can't drive
anything at that current. If that rating is the ampere hour rating of
the cells, then, you could power a 20 ma load for 3/.02=150 hours, a 1
amp load for 3/1=3 hours, etc. Whether the output voltage is good
enough to force any particular amount of current through an LED is
another matter, entirely.

The LED ratings of 3.2 volts and 20 ma implies that it takes
approximately 3.2 volts across each led before they pass 20 ma of
current. However, LEDs are not resistors, and their current is very
strongly related to the applied voltage. A few millivolts extra can
double the current, and a few millivolts less will cut the current by
half. Also, a small change in temperature can shift the current
dramatically, if the voltage is fixed. This makes it very difficult
to power LEDS directly and in parallel from a stiff (low internal
resistance) voltage source. Normally some additional stuff is needed
to waste a bit of extra voltage and regulate the current. For
instance, if you used 3 cells in series for an open circuit voltage of
about 4.5 volts, you could add a series resistor to each of those
parallel LEDs and if you pick the right resistance it will waste the
extra voltage (4.5-3.2=1.3 volts whenever the current is about 20 ma.
So 1.3 volts divided by .02 amp predicts that this value is about 65
ohms. Standard 5% values are 62 and 75. If you want ot get maximum
brightness you might use the lower resistance, but if you want ot make
sure that you operate the LED well within its ratings you might use a
75 to 100 ohm resistor with a small drop in brightness. How many of
these sets you can connect across the battery depends on the sag in
voltage caused by the internal resistance and the battery life you
desire.

That doesn't sound correct.
Or would that need to be parallel?
Maybe that would work but only for like a few minutes before the cells
were completely drained?
How many of these LEDs could I hook up to 2 AA (wired how?)cells
without using any other form of resistor other than the LEDs
themselves?

If the LEDs take 3.2 volts and the battery produces 3 volts, even with
no current load, then zero.

--
John Popelish