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Starkstrom-Gummersbach "cam operated controller"
it's a DPST rotary switch. shows part number K11
Google doesn't help.
Anyone?
it's a DPST rotary switch. shows part number K11
Google doesn't help.
Anyone?
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It changes fast. I lost interest in LED's around the time of the 14No, it's fine. I hadn't previously noticed anything above about 150
lumens.
Electronic ballasts for fluorescent lamps (including the ones in allGregS wrote:
Eeyore wrote:
Arfa Daily wrote:
With a bit of work, I'm sure that they [LEDs] will
also get to the point where they can replace a standard filament bulb, in
the same sized package, unlike a CFL which has to accommodate the ballast.
To run LEDs efficiently from 240V AC will also require some active electronics.
I see no-one ever factors in the power losses that'll be associated with that.
When you use up the watts, you get heat. The lamp has to efficiently get
rid of it. May even need a fan.
Quite possibly so. How many watts does the fan need ?
In my experimental 45 watt, 9- 5 watt Luxeon array, I use copper, aluminum, and a fan.
DC drive is nice.
The normal home doesn't have DC. What do you use for current limiting
and how much power does that dissipate ?
But you said +/- 28%. That means between 72% and 128%.I'm certainly puzzled by the +/- 28% bit !
Yikes!
In general, CFL lamps operate at somewhere between 23 and 29% of the
power requirements of an incandescent for the same average output in
lumens. Most that I use operate at 28%. So, I picked that figure.
Ok. I thought more laser diodes were but never mind.. Aren't most class 3BThere are some high power IR laser diodes more efficienct than LPS.
Other than those, laser diodes are less efficient than most sodium lamps.
I'm no humidity expert, in fact I'm all wet!Hi all,
A question for those knowledgeable in this area... if I was looking to
measure humidity in a residential setting, what would be the best type of
sensor to use? I've done basic reading on the various types, but I'd like
to hear opinions from folks who really know this topic and what's out there,
practical application, etc.
Ideally, this sensor would identify undesirably high humidity conditions in
a normal household environment, would probably be replaced rather than
recalibrated once installed, and would be sufficiently accurate to prevent
any serious likelihood of false positives.
Cost, size, and reliability are of particular interest.
Anyone have any thoughts on this topic? I would greatly appreciate any
input. If this would be better posted in a different newsgroup, please let
me know.
Thanks!
- Chris
That is one of the best bits of humor I've seen in some time onThe fact that phones are made of plastic IS the damn reason that GALVANIC
isolation from the phone line is not required.
Probably. I get 4.33 K on a known good 7805.With no power applied, I find there's a 4K resistance between ground
and output (is that normal??)
KDS 17"CRT, Model: XF-7P, Mfr Code: DFT, Rev No: 00, Chassis No: C718, Mfr"Wolfi" <publicalfa-ng@yahoo.fr> wrote in message
news:jjhji.228387$dC2.116731@newsfe13.lga...
I got one of those small, 1/3W, maybe even 1/2W, fusible metal film
resistors,
which burnt through, due a failing diode in a computer monitor's SMPS.
What is the make, model and serial number of the monitor?
---Could some kind person please tell me where I can buy *cheap*
waterproof panel mounting pushbuttons (or pushbuttons with
waterproofing boots).
They need only a 12V 100mA rating, single pole, latching (push on push
off), will only ever be operated ~100 times.
Requirement is only ~3k pa - would buy in 1k+ lots.