audio recording on IC -help wanted

BBC-TV "See You, See Me" - 7/Dec/2001

Certainty level: 80%

On Friday 7 December 2001, BBC Schools aired a TV programme from their "See You, See Me" series.
The series was based in Scotland, with Grant Stott and Wilma Kennedy trying to find some stolen jewels.
Its web home is www.bbc.co.uk/scotland/education/seeyouseeme/

The programme appeared to make some "subtext" references to my situation. Kennedy refers to "it's not fair",
which is a key phrase; its existence started with OCTS MD Hugh S.-W. who humorously referred to my treatment
with the same phrase.
The subtle statement is that it is fair, because we're doing it, and we're always right, even when we're wrong.

The phrase "useless idiot" from the police chief is a clear insult directed at me, and needs no explanation.

But it is the third item in this clip which is most telling. Stott says the words, "humiliating in front of
the whole public, it would crucify us" if the investigation were called off. That's the phrase that assures
this clip of an 80% probability rating. MI5 are trying to humiliate me "in front of the whole public",
and their strategy is a mixture of ambiguous covert, such as this very programme, and clear overt.

5244


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[Joerg]

Usual resistors are rated up to around 700V dielectric. Some exotic SMT
can go to kilovolts but they are expensive, rare and also long so that
breakage or other flex damage is likely. Then there are small specialty
mfgs such as Hokuriko but they aren't really very available at the usual
distributors. Who sells regular resistors that are rated as bleeders
preferably with medical device blessings?

--
Regards, Joerg

http://www.analogconsultants.com/

 

[Mr.T]

"Eeyore" <rabbitsfriendsandrelations@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:46835F3C.71B0C246@hotmail.com...

Wow, I 'm jealous. I've given up on them after using about 20 or 30 over
the
last 10 years. None lasted any longer than a cheap incandescent, most
lasted
less, a few even DOA.

Were any of them made by Philips or Osram ?

Yep, I still have a new DOA Phillips in the original packing. I just wish I
still had the receipt :-(

I have tried at least 3 different styles by Phillips, and at least one from
Osram, not to mention total crap like Mirabella and many others.
NONE of them lasted any better than an incandescent in the same position.
The price varied from approximately 6 times that of an IB, to over 30 times.
And to seal their fate, the apparent light output per watt is far lower than
the standard fluoro tubes I use, which also last ten times as long. The
extra cost of replacing fittings soon pays for itself compared to using CFL
crap IMO.

MrT.

 

[Lostgallifreyan]

"Dave Plowman (News)" <dave@davenoise.co.uk> wrote in
news:4f01424888dave@davenoise.co.uk:

*Continuous spectrum* light is certainly an advantage for most work or
hobbies. Which is where many so called high efficiency light sources
fail.

Well yes, but that's exactly why I'm advocating the new LED's Their spectra
ARE continuous. They dip a bit in the breen, and the far red, but they're
no-where near the gross discontinuity seen from a CFL.

 

[dmer]

Hello everybody

Can anyone provide the specs (of any kind) for this receiver. Manual
would be great, but really
looking for ANY specs.
Any help appreciated. Any questions, let me know

Thanks..a lot

 

!Wow Here it is http://mmfactor.blogspot.com/ download all you want
for free dont just take what you need take what you want pics videos
movies and braille porn. And he gave a sign the same day, saying,
This is the sign which the Lord hath spoken; Behold, the altar shall
be rent, and the ashes that are upon it shall be poured out.'

 

[Archimedes' Lever]

On Sun, 25 Jan 2009 06:34:53 -0600, Lostgallifreyan <no-one@nowhere.net>
wrote:

"Michael A. Terrell" <mike.terrell@earthlink.net> wrote in
news:rOWdnQ1TB4W1kOHUnZ2dnUVZ_v7inZ2d@earthlink.com:

Same applies to responses to Stewart, who is speaking from
professional experience.


My experience is a broadcast engineer, (The largest was at a 5 MW UHF
TV site.) industrial electrical work, and specialized electronics that
you'll never see, without going to the International Space Station.


And both extremly impressive too, yet apparently in disagreement.

I don't think that high an experience is needed to understand this anyway, I
learned it at 14 when an aging friend of the family taught me how to build my
own (and first) multimeter.

Ohm's law.

And a bit of awareness of insulation strength when high volts are involved.

If you're using a low resistance input you might have to take it into account
for accurate measurements but on mains, the error is small, so it's worth
keeping inputs resistance low for meters dedicated to such systems, for
reasons plenty of posts have explained, so I won't flog that horse now.

If you have strong insulation, you can probe an HV circuit without trouble,
just make sure you understand what the meter says. If a meter designed to tax
the system as lightly as possible says 83V it means 83V, the problem isn't
the meter, you just have to know enough to interpret the truth it tell you.
(Mike Terrell got this one right). If you also need to know current through
the same meter, you could do it by measuring small voltage across a part of
one conductor, then measuring resistance of that part after removing power.
Most current meters just do this internally anyway, but they 'know' the
resistance of their shunts so they calculate correctly anyway.

So the question isn't who is the most experienced, it's who is right? And
take care, because if two people with real experience start arguing over
something as basic as Ohm's law, they'll do each other's reputation harm, as
well as making it hard for newcomers to trust what they read here.

The problem is an idiot that HEARS a "fact" from someone, and goes with
it as bible whether they know the whys and wherefores or not.

That is why the dope that thinks a DMM is a bad tool to use in certain
setting is too damned sparky retard stupid to grasp the science involved.
Because some other dope told him so, and he NEVER bothered to understand
the deeper reasons as to why the declaration was made or how such a tool
could be used properly in the setting under discussion.

In other words, the arlowe disphit doesn't know the science. He is only
going on what has been related to him over the years, and he has no grasp
as to actually WHY one meter is better than another for a given test
circumstance.

 

Hi gang,
I saw some headphones that have small connectors in-line with each
phone so the cable pops apart if it's snagged.
I want to modify my Koss Portapros but I haven't found what these
little things are called.
Quick disconnects just gets me the little clip for phone operators
(Plantronics thingy).
They are also pretty small and color-coded. Any ideas?

 

[Alex Coleman]

On 19 Jul 2007, GregS <szekeres@pitt.edu> wrote:

Alex Coleman <no@no-email.com> wrote:

I have a cordless phone with rechargeable NiMH cells. The
instructions point out I must wipe clean the ends of the cells and
also the contacts.

Is it really likely that "normal" dirt (in other words invisible
dirt ) may affect performance?

ISTR that an NiMH and a NiCd have an internal reistense of about
0.24 ohm. How much resistence would someone's finger grease have?

Are there other residues which can build up on the battery and and
contacts from normal use? Perhaps from gas vebting from the cells
or just a reacton with the atmosphere.

Is the need to wipe cells & contacts equally applicable to silver
oxide cells? Does it depend on the application


I see problems all the time. Finger grease can improve conduction,
at least tempoarily, until other contaminants cause crorosion. The
contact material on many devices, nickel, is just plain hard to get
good conduction, unless a fair amount of force is present. Cleaning
helps get rid of corrosion, and dry films can build up causing
problems. Water or water alcohol combinations will dissolve most
films. Lubrication will help conduction, but can cause film and
dirt collection. Most problems I see are not the batteries, but the
other contacts involved. When batteries start oozing stuff out,
severe damage and corrosion will occur. Gassing could be a minor
problem, not sure. On enclosed batteries, I try to spray or coat
something on before insertion. Light cleaning sprays, like Caig
DeOxit will work, and for extreme situations Vaseline can help. For
exposed connections, just wipe with water and alcohol. I actually
like rubbing alcohol, and it contains a light oily base which
should not cause problems.

greg

If some battery contacts on the device look as if they have started
to become a bit roughened then would it be ok to rub then with a very
fine abrasive paper (such as 600 grit)?

I am not sure what the contacts are made of. ISTR someone saying in
this thread that the plating is usually nickel. But I don't know
what the underlying spring metal is. Perhaps it's nickel all the way
through? I don't want to sandpaper a contact and then find it is
going to go into decline even faster!

 

[sirkituk]

You might find this site interesting if you are a beginner to the
hobby.
http://www.geocities.com/sirkituk

 

[Michael A. Terrell]

Paul Black wrote:

mrdarrett@gmail.com wrote:
In particular, <Windows Logo Key> + D: Show the Desktop. "Boss
Key". One of my favorites ;-)

Don't forget to make the desktop wallpaper a snapshot of your working
desktop ....

The IT drones insisted that you not use wallpaper, and the background
had to be a solid color so they didn't have to wait for anything extra
to download when they did remote access to your computer. They
routinely looked at your history file, insisted on using only I.E., and
reported a salesman for browsing porn sites on company time. He was
fired a few minutes later, and the net day we could only access limited
sites. I couldn't even access some of our vendor's websites because
their nanny ware blocked anything that could be used for porn, music or
games.


--
Service to my country? Been there, Done that, and I've got my DD214 to
prove it.
Member of DAV #85.

Michael A. Terrell
Central Florida

 

[nicola]

I am in the UK. I have a Ł20 digital multimeter and would like
some advice. The meter is a Maplin model PG10B (order code GW18U)

http://www.maplin.co.uk/Module.aspx?ModuleNo=4402

(Q1) Under "DC CURRENT" my user guide says, "voltage drop: 200
mV". Is this the disturbance in a circuit when measuring DC
current?

(Q2) If so, then does that 200 mV figure mean that the potential
difference for the rest of the circuit will be reduced by 200 mV
once I have interrupted the circuit and inserted my meter for DC
Current measurement?

(Q3) Isn't that figure of 200 mV rather high? I mean, if I use
the 2 mA or 20 mA scale in an electronics circuit powered by a 1.5
volt cell then a 200 mV drop in the circuit is very significant.

-----

My real need is to measure current while charging a AAA NiMH cell.

When I set my multimeter to measure DC Current and insert it in
the circuit, the charger's light fails to come on!

It's as if the prescence of the meter is disturbing the circuit
too much.

The voltage of my uncharged cell might typically be 1.1 volts and
the charger says it delivers up to about 120 mA.

(Q4) Is my multimeter simply too low-spec to measure current in
this application?

nikk

 

[Eeyore]

I'm repairing a Midas Venice mixing console. Try and avoid doing so.
It's a nightmare

Despite the agent's tech insisting that the 'solo' switches are 'self
cleaning', no amount of exercising them will prevent 2 of them behaving
intermittently.

They are pcb vertical mount types, i.e. the control surface is a series
of large flat double sided boards. From appearance I guessed the
switches to be ALPS but the German parts list gives the following
reference as best as I can decode it.

SCHALTER-TAST 4XUM 1 switch 4pdt

It's a latching type btw.

Any help sourcing same would be appreciated. I only need 2 but knowing
this beast one or two more might pack up !

Thanks, Graham

 

[Arfa Daily]

"Don Pearce" <nospam@nospam.com> wrote in message
news:468786a1.83423484@news.plus.net...

On Sun, 01 Jul 2007 10:37:23 GMT, "Arfa Daily"
arfa.daily@ntlworld.com> wrote:


well, here in the UK the country of origin must be marked on the pack.

d

That's true Don, but be honest, how often do you look at such stuff ?

Arfa


Just had a good think about that, and do you know? Pretty much every
time.

Then I go "hmmmm" and buy it anyway.

d

Point made then !!

Arfa

 

Does anyone know if someone manufactures something like this, or
manufactures an inexpensive (monochrome ok) touchscreen LCD display
(3x5" = okay) ? I am curious how expensive/difficult it would be to
build touchscreen notecards - just a "dumb" screen that you draw/write
on with a stylus and it holds the image in memory (kind of like an
etch-a-sketch). It would probably have 2 or 3 buttons - one to erase
it, one for "erase mode" - when you hold that down, pen input erases
instead of draws, possibly a 3rd button to "open image from sd". It
would have an SD slot to xfer images off of it (or possibly a mini-USB
plug to sync to computer). When you plug in a SD card you'd see a
sorted list of filenames on the SD card with a scrollbar. Scroll down
to the image you want and click on it to edit in the device. Basically
it would be a dedicated dumb digital input device, powered by a
lithium battery like in a motherboard, or small watch battery (like in
a laser pointer) or maybe a solar cell. The initial idea for these was
to use as 3x5" note cards for project planning (ie scrum development)
so the target price would be as cheap as possible so you could have a
bunch of them (50-100) at meetings. I'd be curious to hear people's
knowledge of any such products/components that could be used for
this...Thanks

 

[Michael A. Terrell]

Arlowe wrote:

Archimedes' Lever brought next idea :
On Thu, 22 Jan 2009 17:28:17 +0000 (GMT), Stuart <Spambin@argonet.co.uk
wrote:

In article <mn.b4a77d91b151170f.90583@gmail.com>,
Arlowe <bare.arsed@gmail.com> wrote:

I don't test for live circuits with a DMM.
I use test lamps or a low(er) impedance voltmeter.
If you worked for me I would sack your arse if I caught you using a DMM
to test for live.

Nice to know someone round here knows what they are doing!


Both of you are idiotic to think that there is some inherent error or
danger in using a DMM to observe an AC line.

You are an idiot if you can not see the potential for error.
If you have multiple conductors carrying current nearby you will read
voltage on an isolated circuit with a DMM. That voltage will not be
read
on an analoge meter or with a resistive voltage indicating device like
test lamps.

I can see that none of you ever worked inside high energy panels.

I will try and explain it another way.
voltmeters on DMMs are good for measuring the difference in potential,
but they are not suitable for checking for the presence of a difference
in potential inside a changing magnetic field.

Now if you can not see why I say it is not good practice to test for
live circuits with a DMM you DO NOT KNOW ANYTHING ABOUT THE GENERATION
OF ELECTRICITY.

I am finished discussing this.

You weren't discussing, you are posting old wive's tales. Power
generation has nothing to do with portable meters. Current transformers
and voltmeters are permanently installed at each generator so the can
monitor and balance the load on each alternator.

--
http://improve-usenet.org/index.html

aioe.org, Goggle Groups, and Web TV users must request to be white
listed, or I will not see your messages.

If you have broadband, your ISP may have a NNTP news server included in
your account: http://www.usenettools.net/ISP.htm


There are two kinds of people on this earth:
The crazy, and the insane.
The first sign of insanity is denying that you're crazy.

 

[Tim]

I have a nice Radio Shack 2 Line cordless phone that went poof on me,
and let out the magic smoke. I opened it up and found some damage around
the battery and power area. One of the damaged components is a zener
marked D503 on the board. It has a number 6 and the next line is either
A3 or a triangle and number 3. The closest thing I have found on the web
is a RS faxback at

http://support.radioshack.com/support_phones/doc43/43690.htm

but the part numbers don't come close to what I see on the board. My
phone is an older model, and I suspect the design has changed a lot. The
RS part number on mine is 43-696, and the one on the faxback doc is 43-
696a.

I believe this zener is the regulator in the circuit to charge the 3.6V
battery.

Anyone got some insight into this one?

Useful comments are always appreciated.

Thanks,

- Tim -

 

[Andre Majorel]

On 2008-07-30, Baron <baron.nospam@linuxmaniac.nospam.net> wrote:

Andre Majorel wrote:
On 2008-07-23, Baron <baron.nospam@linuxmaniac.nospam.net> wrote:
Andre Majorel Inscribed thus:

That was my way of saying that the currents involved are on the
order of 0.1 mA so a very low contact resistance is not needed.

With very low currents I would have thought that you would
need a low contact resistance and probably gold plating as
well.

My possibly naive thinking was that with so little current,
you wouldn't need a super-low contact resistance to achieve
low voltage drop and low dissipated power. What am I missing ?

Noise ! This is a potential problem with any connectors
particularly in audio circuits.

Can anyone point me to an online document going into the when,
why and how of that ? I searched for "contact noise" and
variations thereof but got nowhere.

Along similar lines I had a client this morning with a broken
USB connector on his computer. Now how on earth do you manage
to break off the white plastic bit that supports the contacts ?

Maybe they stepped on the cable. The plug gives quite a bit of
leverage for the height of shell.

--
André Majorel <URL:http://www.teaser.fr/~amajorel/>
"Buy in bulk, that's my advice." -- Lemmy

 

[PhattyMo]

gwatts wrote:

PhattyMo wrote:
gwatts wrote:

Mad Scientist Jr wrote:

Does anyone know where you can order a plastic 9v battery holder with
a snap off cover that flush mounts in a project box, guitar body, etc?
It would be like the AA battery holder in this Synsonics Terminator
guitar except for 9v...


There are a few here:

http://www.guitarpartsresource.com/electrical_other.htm




$16 for a battery holder!!?#$

Bring your Vaseline.

Do you have any better suggestions for what Mad Sci Jr. wants?

Maybe "Figure H" here..?
http://www.mouser.com/catalog/630/1742.PDF

And it's only $4.

 

[Eeyore]

"shiva (friendly)" wrote:

any one help me that darlinton pair has either amplifier or stages
of it

Your question doesn't make sense (poor use of English).

What do you want to know about darlington pairs ?

Graham