audio recording on IC -help wanted

[mc]

I am a bit leery of dollar store electrical items anyway. I once got an
extension cord at a dollar store that claimed UL listing, even mentioning
the file number. I believe that cord was not the one that is legitimately
listed with that file number, because it was rated 13 amps and got awfully
warm at 2.5 amps. The wire appeared to me to be about 24 AWG, maybe 26,
and had much higher resistance than normal copper wire of that size.

I got the cord to see how bad it was. I knew better to actually
normally use a dollar store extension cord that claimed a 13 amp rating
and was thinner than 18 AWG lamp cord. I did report it to UL. I now
cannot find that same cord at any dollar store.
I do see at one dollar store another similarly thin extension cord not
claiming certification and rated for 3 amps, and its resistance is in line
with normal copper wire of 24 AWG.

That's the kind of thing your state government would like to know about, if
you're in the USA. Or your local newspaper or TV news reporters.

 

[Spehro Pefhany]

On Sun, 06 Jan 2008 08:46:10 -0500, the renowned Fred Bloggs
<nospam@nospam.com> wrote:

ChairmanOfTheBored wrote:
On Sun, 06 Jan 2008 11:13:35 +0000, Eeyore
rabbitsfriendsandrelations@hotmail.com> wrote:



ChairmanOfTheBored wrote:


Eeyore wrote:

Lostgallifreyan wrote:

Eeyore wrote


How metal conducts is only relevant when a heatsink is fitted.
Since shiny metal radiates heat less effectively than matt black
plastic it's not hard to see how plastic can outperform metal can
here. There is also the lead frame to consider. A plastic device
has the die mounted directly onto a lead frame which then conducts
heat away from the die into the pcb. Metal can devices do not have
an equivalent direct conduction path.

When I pointed out the radiation aspect, John Popelish pointed out
that it is a small part, not significant, and when the Popelfish has
translated things electronical, I tend to listen. You're right about
the second part though, compared to the copper tab formed as a single
part with one of the leads, the thermal conductivity between can and
wires is lower. I doubt it's that much lower though.

2N2222 Pd = 500mW (metal)
PN2222 Pd = 625 mW (plastic)

It's not exactly an order of magnitude, is it? If the thermal resistance
between can and chip were that much greater, I think the Pd difference
would also be greater than that.

No it's not that much but it is the precise reverse of what the resident
FOOL claimed.

Graham

Funny, how the only part that was acceptable in our mil spec designs
was the metal can variety.

Must have something to do with MTBF.

Very likely so and its ability to withstand adverse environments most likely
because of the hermetic packaging. Irrelevant to anything other than military /
aerospace application and the like of course.


"and the like"? You're an idiot. The metal housed device is better for
more reasons than the hermetically sealed package, idiot.

It has a much broader range of operation.

I am betting that the epoxy package peters out far sooner in designs
where the transistor's capacities are pushed.


Whom is laughing at whom now?

I'm laughing at your pathetic attempt to wriggle out of your error by changing
the topic.


You're an idiot. It is still the same topic. It is still a better
part.

IIRC, the collector is internally connected to the metal housing and the
maximum operating Tj is increased from 125-150oC to an easy 200oC with
the TO-39. Then there is the premium hermetic sealing advantage. There's
no question about the superiority of that package to all else....

How about thermal and mechanical shock resistance?


Best regards,
Spehro Pefhany
--
"it's the network..." "The Journey is the reward"
speff@interlog.com Info for manufacturers: http://www.trexon.com
Embedded software/hardware/analog Info for designers: http://www.speff.com

 

[ChairmanOfTheBored]

On Sun, 06 Jan 2008 12:36:26 -0500, Spehro Pefhany
<speffSNIP@interlogDOTyou.knowwhat> wrote:

On Sun, 06 Jan 2008 08:46:10 -0500, the renowned Fred Bloggs
nospam@nospam.com> wrote:



ChairmanOfTheBored wrote:
On Sun, 06 Jan 2008 11:13:35 +0000, Eeyore
rabbitsfriendsandrelations@hotmail.com> wrote:



ChairmanOfTheBored wrote:


Eeyore wrote:

Lostgallifreyan wrote:

Eeyore wrote


How metal conducts is only relevant when a heatsink is fitted.
Since shiny metal radiates heat less effectively than matt black
plastic it's not hard to see how plastic can outperform metal can
here. There is also the lead frame to consider. A plastic device
has the die mounted directly onto a lead frame which then conducts
heat away from the die into the pcb. Metal can devices do not have
an equivalent direct conduction path.

When I pointed out the radiation aspect, John Popelish pointed out
that it is a small part, not significant, and when the Popelfish has
translated things electronical, I tend to listen. You're right about
the second part though, compared to the copper tab formed as a single
part with one of the leads, the thermal conductivity between can and
wires is lower. I doubt it's that much lower though.

2N2222 Pd = 500mW (metal)
PN2222 Pd = 625 mW (plastic)

It's not exactly an order of magnitude, is it? If the thermal resistance
between can and chip were that much greater, I think the Pd difference
would also be greater than that.

No it's not that much but it is the precise reverse of what the resident
FOOL claimed.

Graham

Funny, how the only part that was acceptable in our mil spec designs
was the metal can variety.

Must have something to do with MTBF.

Very likely so and its ability to withstand adverse environments most likely
because of the hermetic packaging. Irrelevant to anything other than military /
aerospace application and the like of course.


"and the like"? You're an idiot. The metal housed device is better for
more reasons than the hermetically sealed package, idiot.

It has a much broader range of operation.

I am betting that the epoxy package peters out far sooner in designs
where the transistor's capacities are pushed.


Whom is laughing at whom now?

I'm laughing at your pathetic attempt to wriggle out of your error by changing
the topic.


You're an idiot. It is still the same topic. It is still a better
part.

IIRC, the collector is internally connected to the metal housing and the
maximum operating Tj is increased from 125-150oC to an easy 200oC with
the TO-39. Then there is the premium hermetic sealing advantage. There's
no question about the superiority of that package to all else....

How about thermal and mechanical shock resistance?

Since they were specifically designed originally for industrial, and
hi-rel applications, I am quite sure that they excel in both.

See abse for the Motorola specs. They were the original designers of the
part, IIRC.

Best regards,
Spehro Pefhany

 

[Phil Allison]

"Charmed Snark"

If I have a junk box of smallish (1/2 inch dia say)
torroid cores, of some unknown T-#, how many
turns of wire should I guestimate for a >= 22 uH
choke (for use with a MAX762 switching supply)?

** The choke for use with a DC-DC converter had to pass DC current -
so any old ferrite ring with a few turns on it will NOT do.

Cos it will saturate the core.

I simply need to exceed 22 uH for this
junk-box application.

** No - you need a choke that can pass up to 1 amp without core
saturation.

Read the section on "Selecting the Inductor L " in the data sheet.

But the output of what I have in mind is < 1 amp.


** So he still has not read the data sheet.

Must be out of his mind.

... Phil

That's right.

** Fuck off - IMBECILE.



... Phil

 

[Eeyore]

Arfa Daily wrote:

"John Doe" <jdoe@usenetlove.invalid> wrote in message
"Albert Manfredi" <albert.e.manfredi@nospam.com> wrote:
pfjw@aol.com> wrote:

Issues with LEDs today:

Color rendering
Diffusion

Once those are solved effectively, they will be excellent
alternatives. My guess is 5 years to color rendering, and 5 more to
diffusion. Most LEDs today filter a single color to a specific
monochromatic output. Even the LED-type flashlights are very
heavily skewed to the blue end of the spectrum in order to get
sufficient brightness, and require multiple LEDs to get even a
minor beam with very poor diffusion.

But you can use a combination of red, green, and blue high intensity
LEDs, to create any variant of "white" that you prefer. From what
Ive read so far, the efficiency of the new high intensity LEDs is
almost identical now to that of CFLs, which means about the same
lumens for 1/4 or 1/5th the power of an equally bright incandescent
bulb.

Don't believe everything you read.

Experience is the best teacher.

In other words, LEDs suck for bright light sources.

However, the hype is good for selling them to fools over the
TV/Internet. Like that one guy selling LED light bulbs on TV (USA). He
doesn't explicitly say that they're bright as a lightbulb, but they
are in a lightbulb package and used in the commercial as if they were
a lightbulb. Some people probably fall for that.

The weird thing about LEDs is that they would last such a long time
that they wouldn't need replacement. In principle, you can build
them right into the lamp itself. Or in walls, or whatever.

Right, but pointless except for low light applications.


I have a friend who has LED downlighters as the only source of light in his
shop. They are perfectly bright and adequate for the job, if a little 'cold'
in colour temperature. Also, a local photography shop uses similar ones for
its window display, and again, the only comment you would make is that they
are a little cold. The specifications for up to date ones would certainly
suggest that they are on a par in terms of light output and beamwidth, with
comparable fitting halogens. With a bit of work, I'm sure that they will
also get to the point where they can replace a standard filament bulb, in
the same sized package, unlike a CFL which has to accommodate the ballast. I
think it might be a case of 'ya gets wot ya pay fer'

The brightest LEDs do unfortunately have that cool blue 7000K or so colour temp.
There's a significant trade off in efficiency for the 3000K ones.

Graham

 

[John Larkin]

On Mon, 22 Sep 2008 18:36:09 +0100, Eeyore
<rabbitsfriendsandrelations@hotmail.com> wrote:

Now, only a little while back I said I never breadboard, I go straight
to pcb.

This one's different though. The client wants to do the layout as part
of a larger scheme and I want to be double sure of stability in practice
as opposed to simulation because if he messes up, I can show mine
working fine.

As I'll be using a 65MHz ? op-amp I don't trust perfboard / Veroboard
for this.

I recall some self adhesive 'pre-etched shapes' that you could stick on
a ground plane. The name Wainwright comes to mind but google isn't
helping much.

Any suggestions ?

Graham

If you're in a hurry, build it live-bug on a piece of copperclad.

Things like this can help:

http://www.beldynsys.com/singledual.htm


But it's usually easier to do a quick-turn PCB.


John

 

[Joerg]

clifto wrote:

Joerg wrote:
That page errors. But yes, these slow chips were often muffling flaws in
truly horrible designs. Anything that collapses when using faster chips
is IMHO shoddy design.

I can think of lots of products I worked on in the distant past that would
probably develop beaucoup problems with chips of any considerably greater
speed. Nothing shoddy, it would have more to do with PC board materials
(using what was more than sufficient in the day rather than what might
someday be nice), layout, bypassing, etc. and power supply design (again,
what was more than sufficient for the job then).

In logic design that can be dangerous. At least stay away from using
prop delays as "design elements". Certainly a two-layer phenolic design
can't be equipped with chips that provide ECL speeds but IMHO a design
should flawlessly migrate from an old logic family to the CMOS that
replaced it.

--
Dec. 6 (Bloomberg) -- Government officials and activists flying to Bali,
Indonesia, for the United Nations meeting on climate change will cause
as much pollution as 20,000 cars in a year.

And they absolutely had to pick a remote vacation resort place for that
meeting, didn't they? Shows some of the "motivators" in the movement.

--
Regards, Joerg

http://www.analogconsultants.com/

 

[Eeyore]

MooseFET wrote:

Eeyore wrote:
Jamie wrote:
Eeyore wrote:
MooseFET wrote:

BTW: I once made the threat of using the TIP35 as a bus driver because
the other designer thought it was ok to hold onto the bus for an extra
20nS.

Oops ! Yes, the TIPs are a bit slow. Japanese power devices (notably Toshiba IME) are
typically a LOT faster than 'western' designs btw.

Western designs?

US or European.

Are we on the road of bashing the US again ?

What the hell does Western have to do with it?

Slow bipolar power transistors. Don't ask me why but Motorola and RCA never could match
Toshiba or Sanken for device speed combined with good SOA.

The TIP35 also had a very bad dynamic saturation characteristic. When
the collector voltage got below about 2V, they slowed down to a crawl.

Really ? I didn't know that. I've never used a TIP where speed was an issue.

Graham

 

[Michael A. Terrell]

Eeyore wrote:

Ross Herbert wrote:

Since your PC is mains powered and it may not have the required isolation
between the mains side and the sound card input you can do your own thing using
an approved 600:600 transformer with 3kV isolation rating to interface the
telephone line to the sound card input.

He DOES NOT need a 600 ohm transformer since the input impedance of the sound card
is not 600 ohms <sigh> !

It's more likely to be in the tens of kilohms.

What he really wants is something like a 10k:10k 'line bridging' transformer. In
practice, using a '600 ohm' transformer will probably be ok, but being incorrectly
loaded will degrade the sound quality (freq resonse may be peaky etc).

An 'audio expert' would put a 600 ohm resistor across the secondary
to provide proper loading but no expects you to know that.


--
http://improve-usenet.org/index.html

aioe.org, Goggle Groups, and Web TV users must request to be white
listed, or I will not see your messages.

If you have broadband, your ISP may have a NNTP news server included in
your account: http://www.usenettools.net/ISP.htm


There are two kinds of people on this earth:
The crazy, and the insane.
The first sign of insanity is denying that you're crazy.

 

[jakdedert]

Dave Plowman (News) wrote:

In article <WY_1l.9317$UI2.6904@bignews6.bellsouth.net>,
jakdedert <jakdedert@bellsouth.net> wrote:
To be honest, I don't use them for anything. My comments referred to
alkalines used in wireless mics and other sound equipment. I save the
used batteries in the manner suggested above. 9v's are expensive.
While I wouldn't use them again professionally, we change them at almost
every opportunity, since the expense is trivial compared to a dead mic
during a show or presentation.

Surely the client effectively pays for them?

When I say they're expensive, I'm speaking as a consumer. A card of two
name-brand 9v's might be as much as $8 in a convenience store. That's a
lot to pay for a backup battery in an alarm clock (the usual destination
for my used cells), or a toddlers toy. Servicable cells are a perk of
the job. I never buy them, either way (unless jobs with 9v's haven't
come my way lately). Professionally, the client pays. Personally, I
get free batteries.

Either way the cost (to me) is trivial.

But if you're using decent quality batteries and equipment, the life
should be pretty consistent. With mine, it's 9 hours so I change at 8. If
I were using them for an all day presentation where they could only be
changed at say the lunch break, good rechargeables *might* be worth it.
Assuming your mics have an SMPS that can work on the lower voltage.

The breaks don't always come at 8 hours. So, as you say, at lunch I'd

change them, depending on the projected balance of the presentation.
I'd also watch the reciever battery indicators like a hawk if they
started to get low. I've been known to sneak up and change them on the fly.

But as I said earlier, 'pro' batteries bought by the box already come with
a clip on protector. Or do in the UK. And are cheaper per unit than buying
retail - unless you're willing to use no name stuff. At the moment I'm
using Energiser.

I've never bught (my clients haven't, actually) anything but Procells.

I don't--and I don't allow anyone to--put the protectors back on the
cells, or put them back in a used box. In the box--or protector
on--means 'new battery' to me. Too much trouble to keep track during
the heat of battle. If the stagehands or anyone else want the used
cells, they need to get them out of my sight.

I don't have time to check (or recharge) used batteries. I do check the
mic's indicator whenever I change out the cells, though. I've never
gotten a bad Procell; but there's a first time for everything.

jak

 

[Joerg]

qrk wrote:

On Wed, 24 Sep 2008 17:26:32 -0700, Joerg
notthisjoergsch@removethispacbell.net> wrote:

What's the jelly-bean level shifter du jour, the most popular?

Need to shift three sigs 3.3V to 5V and another three 5V to 3.3V. Stuff
us analog dudes normally don't do. The TXB0104 looks ok, so does the
74LVC4245. But the specs for both are horrible, incomplete at best. Not
much in drive levels mentioned, or just for one direction.

The topper is a comment in the TXB spec, "OE should be tied to GND
through a pulldown resistor; the minimum value of the resistor is
determined by the current-sourcing capability of the driver" That driver
is obviously on the chip. Duh! Of course they also forgot what to do if
not needed. Pull up? Leave open? Who knows. Well, maybe they had a
kegger the night before ...

Here's what seems to qualify as a datasheet these days:
http://focus.ti.com/lit/ds/symlink/txb0104.pdf

VOH and VOL at 20uA. Microamperes! Couldn't believe it.

Going from 5v to 3.3v is easy with Fairchild 74LCX541 and other parts
in the family. I've found that Fairchild seems to have more
interesting parts in jellybean digital, power FETs, and analog
switches.

AFAIK those are only 5V-tolerant but can't really drive 5V logic with
gusto on the other side.

--
Regards, Joerg

http://www.analogconsultants.com/

"gmail" domain blocked because of excessive spam.
Use another domain or send PM.

 

[GregS]

In article <13ktmvgl4938409@corp.supernews.com>, "robb" <some@where.on.net> wrote:

"GregS" <zekfrivo@zekfrivolous.com> wrote in message
news:fiml5d$6i0$1@usenet01.srv.cis.pitt.edu...
In article <13ksejqguiibcd0@corp.supernews.com>, "robb"
some@where.on.net> wrote:
i have a couple of mystery transformer pulls {microwave, vcr,
clock radio, etc}
i try to google codes on trans with no proper hits ...

how to id these transformers ? is there a way ? do the
numbers
have significance on there own ?

i want to figure/estimate the ratings they might be useful for
?
thinking of using in power supply ?

eg, one T has
9199-207-029
41B512
DY 217 B

2 sets of windings around standard type metal core - B
1 winding has 2 white, 1015 - 22 AWG wires connected
other winding has two yellow and two red 1007 - 22 awg wires
coming out
when i apply 115 Vac to the white wires i get 15 Vac out of
red
and 3 Vac out of yellow wires


thanks for any ideas / info,
robb

As said, scope out everything. I would assume you allready
have a understanding of transformers. if ou look at the wire,
you might get a rought idea of its capabiliries, but it
could also throw you off. As said in the sci repair faq, I
gave a simple way to estimate output current ratings. You
simply load the output untill it drops 15% in voltage and
montor voltage
and current. A very good transformer can have a 10% drop
rating.
A very poor one can go up to 30%. 15% is an average figure.
Let it run for a length of time and also monitor temperature.
Back off and you should be OK.

greg

Thanks greg,

i just posted a reply question regarding what you have just
pointed out.

so i get a variable current load and monitor current, voltage and
temperature until i see drop of 15% in output (or temperature of
???) as a average target for upper bound current limit.

regarding temperature, is there a typical operational rating
value for most basic average transformers ?

thanks again, i will go visit the repair faq,
robb
c

We all like the transformers to not get hotter than what
you can easily hold your hand on, but they can get hotter.
When it starts to smell, your probably going too far !!
There are transformers that have a temperature cut out,
and it will usually make the unit unopperative unless,
you can cut away the insulation and expose and replace it
or bypass it.

greg

 

[Lostgallifreyan]

Eeyore <rabbitsfriendsandrelations@hotmail.com> wrote in
news:46928BDD.F665CB99@hotmail.com:

OK. That's 3.7W of input power. Giving 47.5 and 59.5 lumens/W
respecitively for those 2 leds.

Tell that to NIST >

 

[Michael A. Terrell]

"no-spam2@lycos.com" wrote:

I need a multiplexer which essentially works as a single pole/double
throw (SPDT) switch with 5 switches controlled in parallell by a logic
high/low signal.
Here's an illustration I've made to explain it better:
http://img377.imageshack.us/img377/7426/5xspdtswitchym9.png

The signals to pass through the switches are video sync signals, a
logic high/low signal and +12V. The voltage range would be from 0 to
12V.

I've searched for SPDT multiplexers and come up with several hits, but
it turns out that none of them actually work as SPDT switches. So the
search continues.

Search for video multiplexer IC, or just go to
http://www.maxim-ic.com/products/video/ and pick the one you want. They
have very basic, to computer controlled versions in a lot of
input/output configurations.


--
Service to my country? Been there, Done that, and I've got my DD214 to
prove it.
Member of DAV #85.

Michael A. Terrell
Central Florida

 

[Joerg]

Joel Koltner wrote:

"Joerg" <notthisjoergsch@removethispacbell.net> wrote in message
news:AT2Ui.1136$%13.464@newssvr22.news.prodigy.net...
I checked Atmel but among the available chip found only transmitters on
there.

I don't suppose you came across any receive-only chips (rx + microcontroller)
in your search, did you?

Actually yes but I tossed them all because long term they aren't useful
for me. There has to be feedback about machine status.

Presumably there's nothing wrong with using one of those ChipCom ICs in
receive-only mode, although the currents are a little higher (18.9mA) than I'd
like and I'm thinking that perhaps an IC optimized as receive-only could be
less.

The only disconcerting thing is that Digikey doesn't seem to carry them.
Usually a red flag for me, so Lewin might have a point here. But what
alternatives are there really? Maybe we should stay with the two-chip
strategy for a while until the dust has settled.

--
Regards, Joerg

http://www.analogconsultants.com/

 

[John_H]

"Toni M." <mistertorpedo@freenet.de> wrote in message
news:473d7c28$0$27138$9b4e6d93@newsspool1.arcor-online.net...

Hi fellow engineers,

I am designing an FPGA board and I want to include an optoelectronic
interface on the board. What I have in mind is a 1-channel optical
receiver module (digital data output), packaged for integrating directly
on-board that features the photodiode (SiGe or any III-V metarial), all
amplifiers and a differential line driver, like LVDS or LVPECL for
connection to the FPGA. The envisioned data rate is something between some
MHz and max. 1 GHz, but it does not play a major role.

I already searched the internet for days now but all I found were some
parallel optical receivers (like Infineon's PAROLI which is already
obsolete) or complex multi-channel transceivers that are sort of overkill
for my application. Aren't there any plain 1-channel optical receivers
available on the market? Unfortunately it's hard for me to get a
substantiated overview because I never had to deal with optics and
photonic components before.

Thank you all very much in advance!

Toni

Are you looking at a true optical link over fiber? (what distance?)
Do you just need a non-electrical line-of-sight connection?

There are nice little modules available out there that can do better than
100 MHz for rather low cost compared to a real communications link. Getting
to GHz class is a little spendy according to my research a couple years ago
from the FPGA perspective. So, since the speed "does not play a major
role," what is the minimum speed you'd consider?

Also - cross posting to 6 different groups is a bit troubling. Which group
do you frequent most so I can send my responses only there and not clutter
up multiple forums?

- John_H

 

[Sjouke Burry]

dimension wrote:

On Aug 7, 6:09 am, Sjouke Burry <burrynulnulf...@ppllaanneett.nnlll
wrote:
dimension wrote:
do any one have anyproject ideas in INFRARED COMMUNICATION .any any ,
then please help me.i need it for my final year project.i am thinking
of infrared LAN but if you have any good ideas then please tell.
1. Build a IR repeater station, to control audio/video from your
bedroom, for equipment used in the living room.
2. Build a IR wireless headphone.
3. Build a RS232 wireless connection set.
4. Make your keyboard/mouse connection to the PC IR wireless.
5. to 50. Use your imagination.
1 to 4 should be increasingly difficult.
5 to 50 even more so.
PS: you can buy non-dedicated remote control sets, to
use for any purpose.
The last one I checked, had 10 buttons, and a reciever
with 10 outputs.



hi burry ..thnx for ur responce.

i thought of RS232 IR communication but my seniors hv done this
project so i wanted 2 go for some new ideas.u told abt interfacing k/b
or mouse with pc using IR ..cn this b done with simple k/b which we
generally use.

Standard keyboard and mouse is almost the same as rs232, with some

pins added to supply 5 volts to the devices.
So its almost equivalent to implementing 2 rs232 inputs and one rs232 ouput,
the keyboard is a two way serial, and the mouse a one way serial connection.

 

[PCPaul]

On Tue, 06 Jan 2009 21:27:09 +0000, PCPaul wrote:

On Sun, 04 Jan 2009 11:35:39 -0500, Michael A. Terrell wrote:

PCPaul wrote:

On Sat, 03 Jan 2009 11:03:29 -0500, Michael A. Terrell wrote:

Gun control is for morons and cowards. England is the perfect
example
of a nation governed by cowards who are afraid of armed citizens.

Afraid of armed Yanks, definitely.

24% of the US casualties in the first Gulf War were down to 'friendly
fire'.

24%.


'Friendly fire' accidents do happen. Mostly due to the troops of
various countries not following the instructions for proper ID, correct
passwords, or keeping up with the proper communications for the day or
mission. Some are simply where they were told not to be. Either they
ignored the orders, or the command chain was so slow it never arrived.

They do. But they happen far more in some countries armies than others.


Would you rather they be captured and tortured to death by the
enemy?

As opposed to being wounded or killed by their 'friends'? No.

Or rather yes. Damn.


I guess I'll have to stop Yank baiting now.

However - having worked for the MOD as a civvie for many years, I know
loads of UK service personnel. And they are unanimously nervous of being
posted to places where they have to fight alongside US forces. That ain't
right.

 

[MooseFET]

On Mar 20, 11:01 am, John Larkin
<jjlar...@highNOTlandTHIStechnologyPART.com> wrote:

On Thu, 20 Mar 2008 09:27:28 -0700 (PDT), dirskys...@gmail.com wrote:
On 3ÔÂ20ČŐ, ÉĎÎç4Ęą10ˇÖ, "Eeyore" <rabbitsfriendsandrelati...@hotmail.com
wrote:
High fuel cost and high food cost...... through your stupid
war...heeheeheee.......

You called everyone terrorists and ignored humanity... You killed over a
million innocents in IRAQ and you never count them as human....

God damn you...

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[Pieter]

On Tue, 30 Oct 2007 09:38:28 -0500, "robb" <some@where.on.net> wrote:

"Eeyore" <rabbitsfriendsandrelations@hotmail.com> wrote in
message news:47271FD7.53D44280@hotmail.com...


TT_Man wrote:

If you are seeing 3-4 volts swing on one of the pins, then I
would say the
resonator is working ok. Don't worry too much about the
wiggle in the
waveform.

Yes, it'll be around 3-4 V pk-pk on one pin (Osc 2 ?) and about
a couple of
hundred mV on the other one.


well i am seeing about 4 volts on one side (the 33 pF side)
and about 3.8 volts on the (15pF) side ?

so does that mean i have a problem ?

this 8051 chip supposedly has and internal oscillator ? why would
that not be used ?
i mean is there a reason one would not use internal oscillator if
there were one.

thanks for all the help everyone, it helps me learn,
robb

The 8051 does not have an internal oscillator. But the chip is very
reliable and does not often give oscillation problems. You could check
the board for decoupling problems, that may influece things.

Pieter