audio recording on IC -help wanted

On Mon, 10 Apr 2006 03:26:31 GMT, "Michael A. Terrell"
<mike.terrell@earthlink.net> put finger to keyboard and composed:

Simon Scott wrote:

Simon Scott wrote:

Anyone have one?

Thanks

Anyone? Bueller?


ECG1361 is supposed to be similar, but I can't get my hands on my old
ECG books right now.
NTE1361 - audio power amp, 12W BTL, Vcc = 18V

Pin # Function
------------------
1 Input
2 Gnd low
3 Muting
4 Feedback
5 Feedback
6 Gnd high
7 Output 2
8 Output 1
9 Vcc

- Franc Zabkar
--
Please remove one 'i' from my address when replying by email.
 
Franc Zabkar wrote:


ECG1361 is supposed to be similar, but I can't get my hands on my old
ECG books right now.

NTE1361 - audio power amp, 12W BTL, Vcc = 18V

Pin # Function
------------------
1 Input
2 Gnd low
3 Muting
4 Feedback
5 Feedback
6 Gnd high
7 Output 2
8 Output 1
9 Vcc

- Franc Zabkar
Thanks Franc!

Any idea if this is a drop in replacement for M51516L? Where did you read
that the 1361 is similar?
 
On Tue, 16 Jan 2007 12:45:47 -0800, "2007 AY"
<young707.PleaseNoSpam@yahoo.com> wrote:

Can you tell me what customized transformers are in high demand?
Is transformer in lot of applications?
What area of the electronics product design do we find many requirements of
transformers?
If a transformer is in high volume use, it is unlikely to be a
customized device, for long.

RL
 
On Sun, 16 Apr 2006 17:44:33 +0800, Simon Scott
<simon_nospam@chrome64.r3mov3th15.org> put finger to keyboard and
composed:

Franc Zabkar wrote:



ECG1361 is supposed to be similar, but I can't get my hands on my old
ECG books right now.

NTE1361 - audio power amp, 12W BTL, Vcc = 18V

Pin # Function
------------------
1 Input
2 Gnd low
3 Muting
4 Feedback
5 Feedback
6 Gnd high
7 Output 2
8 Output 1
9 Vcc

- Franc Zabkar

Thanks Franc!

Any idea if this is a drop in replacement for M51516L? Where did you read
that the 1361 is similar?
My old printed 1990-91 NTE catalogue lists it as a direct replacement.

There is a [poor quality] Japanese datasheet at this URL:
http://www.datasheetarchive.com/datasheet.php?article=3708038

- Franc Zabkar
--
Please remove one 'i' from my address when replying by email.
 
Franc Zabkar wrote:


My old printed 1990-91 NTE catalogue lists it as a direct replacement.

There is a [poor quality] Japanese datasheet at this URL:
http://www.datasheetarchive.com/datasheet.php?article=3708038
Actually I just found that myself (they mustve uploaded it in the last few
days) and had pretty much decided it was a drop in replacement.

Thanks heaps Franc!
 
Tim Wescott wrote:

Joerg wrote:

It's bewildering. Was looking for diodes in SC-75, barely anything.
Then by chance I found the beloved old BAS, BAV and BAT diodes again.
Slightly different numbers but they were listed under SOT-523 which
looks the same to me as SC-75, or SOT-416 for that matter.

Is there a somewhat official site that has a compatibility table like
the ones for watch batteries?

There's a business opportunity here for the enterprising component
engineer or layout guy:

Make the web site, slather the borders* with click-through ads for
semiconductor companies, PCB houses, layout software, etc. Then keep it
up to date so that everyone goes there.

It could, if it were good enough, pay for itself.
It most certainly would.


Particularly if it had a nice table of equivalents, plus some
recommended pad patterns for various different PCB layout software
versions.

* Border ads don't bother me. Pop-ups make me want to shoot someone,
but border ads are OK.
Mozilla doesn't show any pop-ups. I wouldn't mind border ads either as
long as they are professionally done without the stupid flashing colors.

--
Regards, Joerg

http://www.analogconsultants.com
 
"Lostgallifreyan" <no-one@nowhere.net> wrote in message
news:Xns97A9F366B83B0lostgallifreyangmail@140.99.99.130...
"Ken Finney" <kenneth.c.finney@boeing.com> wrote in
news:IxxvFK.5Co@news.boeing.com:


barry@psyber.com> wrote in message
news:6401d$444557e8$cc1d9013$27351@news.flashnewsgroups.com...
In sci.electronics.repair Peter Olcott <olcott@att.net> wrote:

: My vacuum packaging is hermetically sealed.

Might be good if all of this sealing didn't generate Electrostatic
Discharge also. Often, pressurized air/vacuum can generate ESD.

I don't know why it's important to keep the computer vs. storing the
data instead. It's likely the capacitors will eventually depolarize
over time if they're not powered up.

some things to think about....

b.

Good point, Aluminum Electrolytic capacitors may not work after 10 years.






I think they'll hold up quite well. Not sure about depolarising, but I've
found a lot of gear works fine after twenty years or more of storage in a
cool dry cupboard, even with electrolytics in. I bet those computers were
built with high quality caps too. If you avoid changes of heat and
pressure, you'll avoid the most degrading effects on them.

What will help is if you power up the machines every five years and let
them run for a week or two, and like someone else said, batteries are a
dreadful risk, so remove all of them during storage.
Even the Lithuim Coin Cells?
 
"Peter Olcott" <olcott@att.net> wrote in
news:uxe1g.3566$8q.1546@dukeread08:

"Lostgallifreyan" <no-one@nowhere.net> wrote in message
news:Xns97A9F366B83B0lostgallifreyangmail@140.99.99.130...
"Ken Finney" <kenneth.c.finney@boeing.com> wrote in
news:IxxvFK.5Co@news.boeing.com:


barry@psyber.com> wrote in message
news:6401d$444557e8$cc1d9013$27351@news.flashnewsgroups.com...
In sci.electronics.repair Peter Olcott <olcott@att.net> wrote:

: My vacuum packaging is hermetically sealed.

Might be good if all of this sealing didn't generate Electrostatic
Discharge also. Often, pressurized air/vacuum can generate ESD.

I don't know why it's important to keep the computer vs. storing
the data instead. It's likely the capacitors will eventually
depolarize over time if they're not powered up.

some things to think about....

b.

Good point, Aluminum Electrolytic capacitors may not work after 10
years.






I think they'll hold up quite well. Not sure about depolarising, but
I've found a lot of gear works fine after twenty years or more of
storage in a cool dry cupboard, even with electrolytics in. I bet
those computers were built with high quality caps too. If you avoid
changes of heat and pressure, you'll avoid the most degrading effects
on them.

What will help is if you power up the machines every five years and
let them run for a week or two, and like someone else said, batteries
are a dreadful risk, so remove all of them during storage.

Even the Lithuim Coin Cells?
Yes, because their content is HIGHLY corrosive, and in a confined space is
risky as hell if they outgas for any reason.

They'll be backing up the BIOS config, so you will want something that can
read that and back it up to file, and restore it at will. The interweb is
most bountiful, but you'll have to test carefully to see if those machines
have a BIOS that can be read by whatever tool you find. You could also note
the settings on paper, I bet those BIOS's don't have many things to
remember.
 
"Lostgallifreyan" <no-one@nowhere.net> wrote in message
news:Xns97AA7766B208lostgallifreyangmail@140.99.99.130...
"Peter Olcott" <olcott@att.net> wrote in
news:uxe1g.3566$8q.1546@dukeread08:


"Lostgallifreyan" <no-one@nowhere.net> wrote in message
news:Xns97A9F366B83B0lostgallifreyangmail@140.99.99.130...
"Ken Finney" <kenneth.c.finney@boeing.com> wrote in
news:IxxvFK.5Co@news.boeing.com:


barry@psyber.com> wrote in message
news:6401d$444557e8$cc1d9013$27351@news.flashnewsgroups.com...
In sci.electronics.repair Peter Olcott <olcott@att.net> wrote:

: My vacuum packaging is hermetically sealed.

Might be good if all of this sealing didn't generate Electrostatic
Discharge also. Often, pressurized air/vacuum can generate ESD.

I don't know why it's important to keep the computer vs. storing
the data instead. It's likely the capacitors will eventually
depolarize over time if they're not powered up.

some things to think about....

b.

Good point, Aluminum Electrolytic capacitors may not work after 10
years.






I think they'll hold up quite well. Not sure about depolarising, but
I've found a lot of gear works fine after twenty years or more of
storage in a cool dry cupboard, even with electrolytics in. I bet
those computers were built with high quality caps too. If you avoid
changes of heat and pressure, you'll avoid the most degrading effects
on them.

What will help is if you power up the machines every five years and
let them run for a week or two, and like someone else said, batteries
are a dreadful risk, so remove all of them during storage.

Even the Lithuim Coin Cells?




Yes, because their content is HIGHLY corrosive, and in a confined space is
risky as hell if they outgas for any reason.

They'll be backing up the BIOS config, so you will want something that can
read that and back it up to file, and restore it at will. The interweb is
most bountiful, but you'll have to test carefully to see if those machines
have a BIOS that can be read by whatever tool you find. You could also note
the settings on paper, I bet those BIOS's don't have many things to
remember.
These handheld units always prompt you for all the bios settings whenever both
of the batteries are removed. The bios setting are really trivial, owner name
and such.
 
<pbdelete@spamnuke.ludd.luthdelete.se.invalid> wrote in message
news:44458539$0$490$cc7c7865@news.luth.se...
In sci.electronics.design Peter Olcott <olcott@att.net> wrote:
I want to store the computers because there has only been one
computer made that I can use in direct sunlight, fit inside my
pocket, with a large enough screen and keyboard that I can do
C++ programming. HP 200LX. They quit making these ten years ago,
and no one has made anything like them since. I bought four of them
so that I will never run out.

This ..?
http://www.daniel-hertrich.de/200lx/

Anyway the only thing I can think is hard to aquire is the screen and
keyboard.
The rest should be even easier to make these days. Should you want to make a
duplicate ;)

Other than that I think hermeticly sealed plastic or welded steelbox filled
with nitrogen. Then store it inside some space that has large
mass to even out temperature.
I have the maximum sized drawer (10" * 10" * 22") in my bank vault. The unit
itself is the size of a checkbook, and one inch thick. I can use my foodsaver
machine to hermetically seal the 2 mil bags. After I fill the bags with nitrogen
won't it take awhile to reach all of the air inside the computer? I was thinking
something like fill seal, wait overnight poke a small hole and refill and
reseal. I am hoping that I can rent a very small tank of nitrogen.
 
"Peter Olcott" <olcott@att.net> wrote in
news:W5C1g.5174$8q.1358@dukeread08:

"Lostgallifreyan" <no-one@nowhere.net> wrote in message
news:Xns97AB1C2AB3AClostgallifreyangmail@140.99.99.130...
"Peter Olcott" <olcott@att.net> wrote in
news:xjy1g.5149$8q.856@dukeread08:

No its the cost of renting or buying the tank. The nitrogen itself
only costs $14.00 for 24 CF.




Welder's supplies of nitrogen can come in little tanks like aerosol
cans, it's just compressed heavily, not to the point of being liquid.
There's still more than enough in a Ł10 can though. Why agonise over
it? :) If you've ever justified the spend on a can of spray paint,
this will be no problem.

If I can do it this way, then yes. If I can only do it by buying a one
time use air tank for $185, then no. The one welder's supply company
that I called charged $130 for their smallest tank.
I've just checked to see that Clarke welders are sold in the UK and the US;
not sure where they originate.

They sell a lot of stuff at low prices, including argon in small tanks that
in 1999/2000 were being sold in the UK for Ł9.99 in Maplin Electronics.

Argon is probably a better choice that nitrogen, and although it's more
expensive to extract from air, is probably cheaper to buy in small amounts,
given the rise of small scale DIY welding.

Just make sure you get the argon, not the Ar/CO2 mix..

It seems it's stupidly difficult to find a DIY welder seller with the sense
to realise you need to keep customers happy by selling spare such as wire
and gasses, but here's one:

http://www.machinemart.co.uk/search.asp?q=argon

That's a lead, but it will take some work to find a local supplier. Maybe
best to ask in local DIY and auto shops. As the price is very low,
virtually unchanged in 6 years, you should get lucky.
 
Peter Olcott wrote:

These are HP 200LX MSDOS compatible 80186 processors. They were made in 1996 and
discontinued.

There will not be any
qualified technicians ten years from now, so there is no sense stocking up on
spare parts.
Where did you get that idea?

Outrageous that it is, it does at least explain why your approach is to
treat these as mysterious artifacts...
 
"Bill Shymanski" <wtshyman@mts.net> wrote in message
news:eaD1g.13$7U4.5@newsfe19.lga...
"Peter Olcott" <olcott@att.net> wrote in message
news:2yb1g.3543$8q.3046@dukeread08...
Is there a minimum level of relative humidity, below which computer
equipment is
damaged?

I bought some antique handheld computers. I want to keep them in
pristine
condition for a very long time, fifty years or more. I want to know
the ideal
environmental conditions to store these computers. I am probably going
to store
these in a bank vault. I can greatly reduce the relative humidity
using a
commercial desiccant such as drierite.

Thanks for your help.

Humidity is the least of your worries. In 50 years every electrolytic
capacitor in those machines will
have turned to mush - the machines will not be usuable. I don't know
What is the range of the estimated lifespan for the best capacitors?

what the storage life of a
EPROM or flash memory is, but I doubt that is 50 years, either. The
Flash seems to have data retention between 10 to 40 years.
They don't have to retain any data besides their ROM. I would
estimate that they would still be usable (if reprogrammed) much longer than
this.

commercial life of these machines was measured in months - they weren't
really designed for long-term storage. Low temperature might help -
keep them down at the low end of the commercial range, toward 0 C, to
slow down the bit-rot and electrolytic
decay.

Bill
 
<cs_posting@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:1145506191.558839.229880@u72g2000cwu.googlegroups.com...
Peter Olcott wrote:

These are HP 200LX MSDOS compatible 80186 processors. They were made in 1996
and
discontinued.

There will not be any
qualified technicians ten years from now, so there is no sense stocking up on
spare parts.

Where did you get that idea?
There is only one company left that will work on them, and they will probably be
out of business when the owner retires.
Outrageous that it is, it does at least explain why your approach is to
treat these as mysterious artifacts...
 
On Wed, 26 Apr 2006 13:13:24 +0100, "Dave Plowman (News)"
<dave@davenoise.co.uk> wrote:

In article <44513df9.4810453@news.plus.net>,
Don Pearce <donald@pearce.uk.com> wrote:
In broadcasting the most common combination with balanced mics is an
approx 150-300 ohm output going into an about 1.2k input on the mixer.
Older STC ribbons were sometimes 30 ohms. Accurate 600 ohm matching
only really was used into very long lines. Like telephones. But most
long lines these days will be digital.

Shouldn't that be 12k in? A pair of 6.2k ohms in series feeding the
phantom power would give you that. Even with phantom switched off, the
resistors are still there, so the input impedance doesn't get any
higher for dynamics.

No - the phantom 'stand off' resistors don't go in series with the signal
path. They are from the plus side of the phantom supply to each leg of the
balanced input - very simply.
That's right - but from the point of view of the balanced signal, they
are in series, from one side to the other.

d

--
Pearce Consulting
http://www.pearce.uk.com
 
Are you describing a narrow shanked bolt, that remains captive but
slide-abouty after threaded through the "washer"?
 
"Ban" <bansuri@masterweb.it> wrote in
news:Gz86g.19641$6e2.15667@news.edisontel.com:

I would use an 18k and a 22k and get 0% deviation
or maybe a 2.2k and a 3.3k and get also 0%
or a 8.2k and a 10k and get 0.1%
all much better than your 480000 combinations.
And there are 98 combinations already in the E96 series , that give
you better than 0.5%
How is that possible?
Seem to be utter crap. Hint: I use a program called Rescad by Terry
Harris 1996
--
ciao Ban
Apricale, Italy
Works great!

http://www.armory.com/~rstevew/Public/Software/ResCad.zip

Thanks, Ban

Mike Monett
 
Tek wrote:
I want to change the clock value in a device.
I know the unit can handle it but I wanted to ask if anyone know if
there will be an issue.
The current clock generator is an Xtal... I cannot find the correct
frequency XTAL but crystals are easy to get.

thanks for any advice!
If you don't know that xtal is a common abbreviation for crytal, then by
what basis have you decided that you want to change it, that the unit can
'handle it', and you have the technical skill to do it ?

geoff
 
Geoff wrote:
Tek wrote:
I want to change the clock value in a device.
I know the unit can handle it but I wanted to ask if anyone know if
there will be an issue.
The current clock generator is an Xtal... I cannot find the correct
frequency XTAL but crystals are easy to get.

thanks for any advice!

If you don't know that xtal is a common abbreviation for crytal, then by
what basis have you decided that you want to change it, that the unit can
'handle it', and you have the technical skill to do it ?

geoff
Good question, Geoff, but what's more worrying is that the places Tek is
looking for XTALs/Crystals don't seem to indicate that they are the same
thing!

Daniel

*** Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com ***
 
On 5/4/06 5:51 PM, in article 445a9430$0$29303$88260bb3@free.teranews.com,
"Daniel" <dxmm@nospam.albury.net.au> wrote:

Geoff wrote:
Tek wrote:
I want to change the clock value in a device.
I know the unit can handle it but I wanted to ask if anyone know if
there will be an issue.
The current clock generator is an Xtal... I cannot find the correct
frequency XTAL but crystals are easy to get.

thanks for any advice!

If you don't know that xtal is a common abbreviation for crytal, then by
what basis have you decided that you want to change it, that the unit can
'handle it', and you have the technical skill to do it ?

geoff



Good question, Geoff, but what's more worrying is that the places Tek is
looking for XTALs/Crystals don't seem to indicate that they are the same
thing!
Your observation is pointless; XTAL and crystal *are* the same.

On the other hand, you can buy a xtal/crystal oscillator that is more than
just the xtal/crystal.



Daniel

*** Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com ***
 

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