audio recording on IC -help wanted

[CLFE]

I have a 1000 ohm/8 here, not sure if center tapped - have to look - it's
been a couple months since I laid eyes on them. Have actually about 3 I
believe - NOS. Would probably be a bit expensive to ship to U..K.

--
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Electronics Plus: repairs, sales, parts and more. Gifts & More: Gifts,
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For information, send e-mail to: Info, Sales or Postmaster at clfurent.com
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"William P.N. Smith" <news05@compusmiths.com> wrote in message
news:7siar1934eufnnou8kd48ne1qish7bcsnv@4ax.com...

"Ken" <lerameur@sdom.com> wrote:
Output Transformer
900 8
----- -------
-
-----
-
----- ---------
Three legs going in and two out with these numbers on top.

Looks like a speaker output transformer, 900 ohm (center-tapped)
primary and 8 ohm secondary.

Radio Shack used to carry this kind of thing, but you probably have to
try digikey.com for it nowadays.

 

[Robert Baer]

Ken wrote:

Because I do not have all the working parts. I decided to simulate this
circuit in pspice. I wanted to add this part the circuit. ( I only worked
with very simple circuit using a simulator,..capacitor resistor) there are
many to chosse from also , I wanted to add a transistor A733, there is none
in the simulator, how do I go about chooosing out of the 100 shown in the
simulator ??

thank you

Ken


Pick any transistor of the same type (NPN or PNP) and similar use

(RF, audio or power).
No need to be picky for popcorn commodity stuff.

 

[William P.N. Smith]

meow2222@care2.com wrote:

Mechanical car speedos are usually driven by a rotating cable from the
gearbox, and are all mechanical.

Not any more, but that's a detail. Even my old Rabbit had a place to
plug in a Hall Effect sensor for the cruise control...

 

[William P.N. Smith]

meow2222@care2.com wrote:

yes bargraphs are available, but pricey.

Only if a few dollars is "pricey".
http://www.rpelectronics.com/Data/RCAT_93.pdf has them for $3.33, and
that's without even looking hard.

 

[opsite3]

Post subject: cd lens scratching disk

I've seen this problem with car cd players and portables - pretty
much
anything that gets bounced around. Any solution for this besides
that
cheesily-named d-skin ("duh skin")?

My friend says turn the laser up ( by turning the pot down).

I don't see that the lens scratching the disk is possible.

Also, jujst for the record, and after having good results in adjusting
laser pots already, in a few different machines, (DVDs game consoles,
Cd players) I feel it fitting to say:

To the best of my understanding, the laser lens eventually begins to
loose iyt's focus, as well as the laser loosing strength, maybe due
to a week point in the caps inline with the power supply to it, or
the laser itself , resisters, whatever.

It is definitely harder to read a dirty or scratched disk in this
state.

Most adjustments I have seen arre by turning the pots counter
clockwise, a few degrees.

If adjusted too far, you can make the laser strong enough to actually
damage the lens itself, and even possibly your disks, though.

I always try cleaning the lens first, with some 90% or so strenght
alcohol, as the weaker has some kind of oils added to it, for skin
care. A stronger solvent could eat your lens , depending on what they
are made of, as I stil don't know if they are actually glass or not.

I believe if you adjust to any lower than 800 ohms it can damage the
disks etc., and you will need a new laser or unit.

 

[Mike Harrison]

On Sun, 8 Jan 2006 14:56:27 -0500, "Michael" <newszz10@yahoo.com> wrote:

I'm going nuts trying to figure out the pinout on a ired rcvr module....the
Sharp GP1UM281YK.

The data sheet is contradictory.

This is a little stand up module that has 2 mounting flanges and then a 3
pin configuration.

Aren't these an industry standard pinout?....sharp, lite-on etc.?

Is this it......as you look at the front where the lens is the 3 pins would
read left to right.....

output Vcc ground

right? wrong?

I now see an everlight part that looks close to the sharp and it's.....

output ground vcc (front view)

anyone have any experience with this part?
thanks.

they are not standard, but it is easy to find the pinout experimentally - just put a 1K resistor in
series with the 5V supply to avoid damage if misconnected & use trial and error.

 

[Greg]

Have you tried to contact any of the major suppliers if they have
something in stock you could use?
Sometimes orders get cancelled or customers go bankrupt and the OCXOs
may be available cheap if your requirements are not exotic.
Especially if you can accept ANY freq, they can sell you stock parts
they could senn to noone else (means cheap)
Just tell them your requirements regarding supply voltage, temp range,
dF/temp, dF/dSupply, pulling requirements (v-range, ppm-range),
calibration tolerance, aging/month or year.
If you can take anything between 4 and 20 MHz, can supply 12V or 5V
with 5% tolerance with enough current, yout temp range does not exceed
0° to 60° and pulling of 1-2ppm is enough, you should have no problem
at all finding something from stock.

Greg

Try:
www.kvg-gmbh.de
They used to supply small quantities also

 

[Michael]

Actually, I shoudn't have made the post....just a heat of the moment bit of
frustration. (I was pissed -- in other words).

The data sheet is a contradiction.

Actually, the case isn't grounded but yeah I did just look at the pins with
a vom to figure it out.




<zwsdotcom@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:1136750907.061847.278600@g44g2000cwa.googlegroups.com...

This is a little stand up module that has 2 mounting flanges and then a 3
pin configuration.

Aren't these an industry standard pinout?....sharp, lite-on etc.?

No.

Check continuity between the case and each pin. The case is grounded.
That gets you one pin. Then use a power supply and oscilloscope to work
out what the other two pins are.

 

[Anthony Fremont]

"Michael" wrote:

and as I look at it again it says SOLDER SIDE OF BOARD.

S H I T.

How lame. Like they would know which side was the solder side (likely
both w/extra layers in between these days). Now, "component side",
there's a term that's not quite so ambiguous.

 

[Mike Harrison]

On 16 Jan 2006 20:09:53 -0800, zwsdotcom@gmail.com wrote:

Tried this in comp.arch.embedded, moving my search further afield...

I'm trying to build a PDP-1 emulator on a 90x55mm business card. As
readers skilled in the art will appreciate, this is an eminently
practical project, the general applicability and consumer utility of
which are precisely commensurate with the profits I expect to realize
from the endeavor.

The front side of the card contains the front panel. 0603 LEDs for the
lamps are fine, but I am having trouble finding switches small enough.
Smallest tact switches I can find are 6x3mm. Can anyone point me to
smaller tact switches? My other option is 0.050" spacing DIP switches,
which are harder to operate and have a shorter lifespan.

Omron do some 4mm dia. domes (B3D-4112).
ITT Cannon do a side-actuated one with a 1.66x3.5mm profile x 5.5mm wide - if you could find a way
to stack these maybe they would be worth a look. KSS221G

Also look at people like ALPS, but obtaining small qtys may be tricky. Perhaps investigate dead
digital cameras/mobile phones....

 

[Mike Harrison]

On 16 Jan 2006 20:09:53 -0800, zwsdotcom@gmail.com wrote:

Tried this in comp.arch.embedded, moving my search further afield...

I'm trying to build a PDP-1 emulator on a 90x55mm business card. As
readers skilled in the art will appreciate, this is an eminently
practical project, the general applicability and consumer utility of
which are precisely commensurate with the profits I expect to realize
from the endeavor.

The front side of the card contains the front panel. 0603 LEDs for the
lamps are fine, but I am having trouble finding switches small enough.
Smallest tact switches I can find are 6x3mm. Can anyone point me to
smaller tact switches? My other option is 0.050" spacing DIP switches,
which are harder to operate and have a shorter lifespan.

An old photo of the original:

http://www.dbit.com/~greeng3/pdp1/PDP1.10.jpg

my current mechanical test layout (missing address and test word
switches):

http://www.larwe.com/pdpcard.gif

and a 1:1 scale printout of the layout in my hand:

http://www.larwe.com/PDRM1836.JPG

(As with the real computer, the electronics and power supply are behind
the front panel. The emulator is implemented in a 60MHz ARM7).

As the device is likely to be hand-held, how about using pcb touch pads, in conjunction with a
conductive stylus (grounded via the users body where they old it).
A PCB pad with a LED next to it would get the size down significantly. Probably wouldn't need any
extra circuitry - just some 1M or so pullups, maybe a couple of diodes and a series resistor for ESD
protection.

 

[Mike Harrison]

On Tue, 17 Jan 2006 07:05:53 -0500, Spehro Pefhany <speffSNIP@interlogDOTyou.knowwhat> wrote:

On 16 Jan 2006 20:09:53 -0800, the renowned zwsdotcom@gmail.com wrote:

Tried this in comp.arch.embedded, moving my search further afield...

I'm trying to build a PDP-1 emulator on a 90x55mm business card. As
readers skilled in the art will appreciate, this is an eminently
practical project, the general applicability and consumer utility of
which are precisely commensurate with the profits I expect to realize
from the endeavor.

The front side of the card contains the front panel. 0603 LEDs for the
lamps are fine, but I am having trouble finding switches small enough.
Smallest tact switches I can find are 6x3mm. Can anyone point me to
smaller tact switches? My other option is 0.050" spacing DIP switches,
which are harder to operate and have a shorter lifespan.

An old photo of the original:

http://www.dbit.com/~greeng3/pdp1/PDP1.10.jpg

my current mechanical test layout (missing address and test word
switches):

http://www.larwe.com/pdpcard.gif

and a 1:1 scale printout of the layout in my hand:

http://www.larwe.com/PDRM1836.JPG

(As with the real computer, the electronics and power supply are behind
the front panel. The emulator is implemented in a 60MHz ARM7).


These are a bit smaller and easily available:
http://www3.alps.co.jp/WebObjects/catalog.woa/PDF/E/Switch/Tact/SKRK/SKRK.PDF

It would also be cool to use a stylus-operated membrane switch with
the printed bit covering the whole top (windows for LEDs), and
laminated to the PCB, but figuring out how to do that in a one-off
without spending a fortune might be a hassle (it's not uncommon to
have embedded SMT LEDs in a membrane kb/overlay). Also they woudn't be
tactile most likely as there's litte room for a dome.

You could use a sounder click to provide pseudo-tactile feedback.

 

[Spehro Pefhany]

On Tue, 17 Jan 2006 13:07:28 GMT, the renowned Mike Harrison
<mike@whitewing.co.uk> wrote:

On Tue, 17 Jan 2006 07:05:53 -0500, Spehro Pefhany <speffSNIP@interlogDOTyou.knowwhat> wrote:

On 16 Jan 2006 20:09:53 -0800, the renowned zwsdotcom@gmail.com wrote:

Tried this in comp.arch.embedded, moving my search further afield...

I'm trying to build a PDP-1 emulator on a 90x55mm business card. As
readers skilled in the art will appreciate, this is an eminently
practical project, the general applicability and consumer utility of
which are precisely commensurate with the profits I expect to realize
from the endeavor.

The front side of the card contains the front panel. 0603 LEDs for the
lamps are fine, but I am having trouble finding switches small enough.
Smallest tact switches I can find are 6x3mm. Can anyone point me to
smaller tact switches? My other option is 0.050" spacing DIP switches,
which are harder to operate and have a shorter lifespan.

An old photo of the original:

http://www.dbit.com/~greeng3/pdp1/PDP1.10.jpg

my current mechanical test layout (missing address and test word
switches):

http://www.larwe.com/pdpcard.gif

and a 1:1 scale printout of the layout in my hand:

http://www.larwe.com/PDRM1836.JPG

(As with the real computer, the electronics and power supply are behind
the front panel. The emulator is implemented in a 60MHz ARM7).


These are a bit smaller and easily available:
http://www3.alps.co.jp/WebObjects/catalog.woa/PDF/E/Switch/Tact/SKRK/SKRK.PDF

It would also be cool to use a stylus-operated membrane switch with
the printed bit covering the whole top (windows for LEDs), and
laminated to the PCB, but figuring out how to do that in a one-off
without spending a fortune might be a hassle (it's not uncommon to
have embedded SMT LEDs in a membrane kb/overlay). Also they woudn't be
tactile most likely as there's litte room for a dome.

You could use a sounder click to provide pseudo-tactile feedback.

Might even be tactile rather than auditory if you could whack the
board hard enough. ;-)


Best regards,
Spehro Pefhany
--
"it's the network..." "The Journey is the reward"
speff@interlog.com Info for manufacturers: http://www.trexon.com
Embedded software/hardware/analog Info for designers: http://www.speff.com

 

[Joerg]

Hello Phil,

Are there small and cheap potmeters 50 ohms and lower that are log or
audio-taper?

** No.

:-(

** To operate in the normal clockwise direction - you need a reverse log
pot.

That would not be an issue here. It'll be thumbwheel and just be mounted
the other way around.

For fine adjustment a 100 ohm, 10 turn WW pot will do.

Or just use a 12 way switch and some fixed resistors.

Both way too expensive and too large.

Regards, Joerg

http://www.analogconsultants.com

 

[Mike Deblis]

"Chris Jones" <lugnut808@nospam.yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:11to5rcct4hjk9d@corp.supernews.com...

Be careful, the quartz-envelope ones which erase eproms are dangerous to
the
skin and eyes, and shouldn't be operated in any way that could result in
exposure of any people. They can do to an EPROM in 10 minutes what a week
of intense sun can barely do, so I wouldn't be surprised if they could
give
you skin cancer pretty fast also. Also it will not pass very well through
glass so the PCB light box may not even erase the eproms.

I ended up buying a ridiculously cheap ($10) piece of Chinese rubbish off
eBay on Friday, and it arrived on Saturday. It is possibly the nastiest
piece of tat I've seen in a long time (i.e. wires are soldered to the tube
pins to save the cost of a socket, horrid bakelite/paper board, terrible
soldering etc.), but after some remedial safety work (new mains cable,
applying some insulation etc. internally) it did the job brilliantly, for
about the same cost a just buying a tube here. Possibly a fire hazard
though - I watch it carefully. Chips erase in about 15 minutes.

Thanks,

Mike

 

[William P.N. Smith]

LRCR <xyz@ix.netcom.com> wrote:

Also, on both method, the video signal wobbles slowly slightly up and
down (on or [off] on both methods).

Sounds like something's funny with your construction, can you post
pictures? Also, why are you terminating to -5V?

 

[LRCR]

Thanks William for you feedback,

The base to emitter is always forward bais regardless whether the base
is 5v or 0v. True. The picture showing 0v is a mistake, since by
turning off the lab power supply I really disconnected the base with
no forward bais to the BE section. But the -5v is required to the
emitter of the transistor since the video source or generator that I
am using is AC coupled and the video generator that I am using is a
video standard. The generator unfortunately does not allow DC baising
and I want to keep the circuit on the T connector simple. On the
bipolar, all I want to really see, how's the frequency response looks
lke with the bipolar is on. What I really want to use is the FET
design unless there is a strong argument in favor of the bi-polar.
The FET is better in my mind for an AC coupled signal. On the FET
diagram, the -5 to the source is really on the setup connected to 0v.
For now, I am really concerned with the frequency response and the
slow vertical motion that I see on the video scope analyzer. The
vertical slow motion of the video signal tells me that the 75ohm
resistor is not connected to ground effectively through thr FET.
Also, on the peaks and valleys of the 1 to 30 MHz frequency response,
as was replied by another helpful responder, FET switch/75 ohm
resistor design probably make a poor terminator for a video 75 ohm
coax line. The FET has all sort of stray capacitance with its small
RDS resistance that is probably causing the frequency issues. Other
vendor who sell video products with a swithable load to the 75
terminator use a relay. But I spoke to a video expert in the field
(MAXIM) and he design a workable solid state switchable load for video
line termination. I am assuming he used a FET switch to the 75 ohm
resistor, but there is probably more to this simplied design. Any
thoughts would be appreciated.


Caesar


On Thu, 02 Feb 2006 08:00:54 -0500, William P.N. Smith
<news2006a@compusmiths.com> wrote:

LRCR <xyz@ix.netcom.com> wrote:
Also, on both method, the video signal wobbles slowly slightly up and
down (on or [off] on both methods).

Sounds like something's funny with your construction, can you post
pictures? Also, why are you terminating to -5V?

 

[William P.N. Smith]

LRCR <xyz@ix.netcom.com> wrote:

by
turning off the lab power supply I really disconnected the base with
no forward bais to the BE section.

I'm not convinced that's true, try disconnecting the power supply
output wires or looking at it with a voltmeter.

 

[LRCR]

I have also disconnect the base wires off the circuit as you suggested
and the transistor had to be off since the scope showed the sync
height of the video signal to be close to 80 IRE. This value of the
sync height appear on an unterminated line. If the transistor was on,
then as a voltage divider derived by the 75 ohm source and the
switched on 75 terminator, the sync height would be 40 IRE. The video
signal is 2 Vpp(AC coupled) at the collector resistor of the
transistor(OFF). If no voltage is on the base, what would forward
bais the base/emitter path to -5v at the emitter. I am using a
2N3904, npn bipolar. In any case, I will try disconnecting the power
wires off the base again tomorrow at the lab. Right now I am home.
But it does not make sense that the transistor will stay on without
the base voltage. Maybe I am missing something.
On Thu, 02 Feb 2006 22:01:30 -0500, William P.N. Smith
<news2006a@compusmiths.com> wrote:

LRCR <xyz@ix.netcom.com> wrote:
by
turning off the lab power supply I really disconnected the base with
no forward bais to the BE section.

I'm not convinced that's true, try disconnecting the power supply
output wires or looking at it with a voltmeter.

 

[Roy L. Fuchs]

On Thu, 16 Feb 2006 02:08:35 GMT, "Anthony Fremont"
<spam@anywhere.com> Gave us:

You're a lunatic and I'm quite sure that Vishay thinks so too.

You're an idiot. Where are all your links showing us a broad
spectrum of IR LEDs for use with remotes?

Until that time, you can fuck off, FreeTurd.