audio recording on IC -help wanted

[Dimitrios Tzortzakakis]

Your M/B has many power supply connectors,3 X 3.3 V,4 X 5 V,12 V,-12V,-5V, 6
X GND if it is a standard ATX and another connector with two 12V wires if it
is a P4 one.To really find out which wire carries a higher current, you have
to use an ammeter.None of the compontents are supplied by the switching PSU
outs AFAIK, on board stabilizers with quite many capacitors filter out the
ripple.

--
Tzortzakakis Dimitrios
major in electrical engineering, freelance electrician
FH von Iraklion-Kreta, freiberuflicher Elektriker
dimtzort AT otenet DOT gr
Ď "Sammy-Jo" <no_thanks@mail.com> Ýăńářĺ óôď ěŢíőěá
news:96986D67DAFC671F3M4@66.250.146.159...

"Sammy-Jo" <no_thanks@mail.com> wrote in message

I am looking to use a 1800 MHz Duron rather than 1600 MHz
Duron.

The PSU is fairly good but not particularly powerful, so
I want to be careful that it can supply enough power for
the processor.

The specs say that the "Typical Power Dissipation" for
the 1.6 Duron is 48 W and for the 1.8 Duron it is 53 W.

QUESTION: Can someone tell me at what voltage is the
current for the extra 5 W power going be drawn from the
PSU? Is it 12V?


Postscript. The specs also say:
"Maximum Core Amperage" of each processor is 38 Amps and the
"Max Power Disssipation" of each processor is 58 W.


On Mon 18 Jul 2005 19:21:39, John Smith wrote:
news:dbgrvj$dp2$1@nwrdmz02.dmz.ncs.ea.ibs-infra.bt.com

Depends what board but usually on socket A boards its the 5v
line

Smiffy


Weird. Can I double check with you to make sure of what you are
saying about the extra power being needed on the 5V line.

I have read the theory but I have no practical experience of this and
wanted to know of someone who had actually checked it out in real
life.

------

I read that the fast Durons (Applebreds) are like Thoroughbred B
Athlons. See http://fab51.com/cpu/guide/opn-xp-e.html#a-bred

The cpu entry at the bottom of page 7 of this document suggests that
the voltage is 12V.
http://www.amd.com/us-
en/assets/content_type/white_papers_and_tech_docs/26003.pdf

Also this web page http://takaman.jp/D/?english suggests that
different power *Athlons* vary by the amount of 12V they use.

 

"wylbur37" <wylbur37nospam@yahoo.com> wrote:

Network Interface
*Caution
Disconnect plug from this jack during installation and repair
of wiring.
*Testing
Plug working phone directly into this jack. If phone operates,
fault is in wiring. If phone does not operate, call repair
service.

This is the telephone network interface (or demark box), which
demarcates the place where the phone company's responsibility for
phone line problems ends and yours begins. Plugging a known working
phone into this jack will help you determine who gets billed for the
service call.

When I opened the case, I noticed that the red and green wires
(the only ones that will be actually used by the telephone itself)
are also connected to a little circuit board whose most conspicuous
component is a yellow cylinder-shaped object (about 3/4" long and
about 3/8" diameter) with the following markings ...

250V
TI
0.47 MFD
+/- 10%

Could be some cheap surge supressor, but more likely an RF supressor
of some kind. Try removing it and see if you get radio stations on
your phone. [You may need to remove it if you want DSL, for
instance.]

There should also be lightning arresters on each line. Modern ones
look like little grey boxes bolted to the ground wire.

Also, when I looked inside the jack itself
(the hole where you would plug the phone into),
I noticed there's some strange-looking gunk inside.
It's clear-colored and has the consistency of rubber cement.

It's a waterproofing compound that's inside the incoming cable.

 

[Don Bruder]

In article <2uk9e1dbhjiiku1o9p18m9t1toumqv482v@4ax.com>,
William P. N. Smith wrote:

"wylbur37" <wylbur37nospam@yahoo.com> wrote:
Network Interface
*Caution
Disconnect plug from this jack during installation and repair
of wiring.
*Testing
Plug working phone directly into this jack. If phone operates,
fault is in wiring. If phone does not operate, call repair
service.

This is the telephone network interface (or demark box), which
demarcates the place where the phone company's responsibility for
phone line problems ends and yours begins. Plugging a known working
phone into this jack will help you determine who gets billed for the
service call.

When I opened the case, I noticed that the red and green wires
(the only ones that will be actually used by the telephone itself)
are also connected to a little circuit board whose most conspicuous
component is a yellow cylinder-shaped object (about 3/4" long and
about 3/8" diameter) with the following markings ...

250V
TI
0.47 MFD
+/- 10%

Could be some cheap surge supressor, but more likely an RF supressor
of some kind. Try removing it and see if you get radio stations on
your phone. [You may need to remove it if you want DSL, for
instance.]

It's a filter that kills 60-cycle AC noise on the line. DC (which is
what phones use for signalling and sound transmission) is blocked by a
capacitor, and "forced through" the phone gear. AC, picked up by
induction from the power lines that phone cables almost always parallel,
easily "crosses" the capacitor to ground, where it "vanishes" before
reaching the phone to be turned into noise.

Remove that circuit board, and you're going to have a dose of AC hum on
your line. Depending on the exact details of a particular line, the
level of the hum may be anything from "nonexistent except to a sensitive
meter" to "barely noticable background hum" to "so bad that the line is
totally unusable for any purpose". Exact level depends on the physical
relationship between the phone wires that make up a particular loop and
nearby power lines along the entire length of the cable between the
phone box and switching office. Moving a cable (either power or
telephone) just an inch one way or the other CAN make a world of
difference - A "perfect line" can go hideously bad with noise due to the
wind blowing and rocking the cable back and forth. Likewise, a bad line
might be moved enough in the breeze to become wonderfully noise-free. It
all depends on how the two cables intereact with each other inductively.

There should also be lightning arresters on each line. Modern ones
look like little grey boxes bolted to the ground wire.

The ones on my recently replaced demark box look like two little
screw-in plugs about as big around as a "AA" battery, and about 3/4 inch
long - "Carbons", the line techs call 'em.

They're what cooked in the lightning storm a couple years back and took
me off the phone system for more than a week as the backlogged techs
made their way to over 8000 area drops that had been similarly blown
away.

Also, when I looked inside the jack itself
(the hole where you would plug the phone into),
I noticed there's some strange-looking gunk inside.
It's clear-colored and has the consistency of rubber cement.

It's a waterproofing compound that's inside the incoming cable.

AKA "Icky-pick" to the linemen.

Not even *A LITTLE* likely to be seen in a demarc box, since the lines
that feed those are almost always what's called "C-wire", while
icky-pick only exists in trunk bundles with 10+ line pairs inside.

MUCH more likely, what's being seen is "harsh environment sealer" -
Unlike icky-pick, which is perpetually "gooey", the sealer is a
"tackless" glob with a consistency not much different than the OP's
description of rubber cement, and unless horribly contaminated with
something (what, I don't know...) usually clear or slightly yellowish.

Leave it alone. Its job is to keep the connectors covered when nothing
is plugged into the socket, protecting them from corrosion and general
"crud". Plugging a connector into the socket it's in will move it as
needed to make contact (there's a cavity behind the contacts that it
gets mushed into), then removing the connector will allow it to "ooze"
back into position to seal the contacts.

--
Don Bruder - dakidd@sonic.net - New Email policy in effect as of Feb. 21, 2004.
Short form: I'm trashing EVERY E-mail that doesn't contain a password in the
subject unless it comes from a "whitelisted" (pre-approved by me) address.
See <http://www.sonic.net/~dakidd/main/contact.html> for full details.

 

[Watson A.Name - \"Watt Su]

"Don Bruder" <dakidd@sonic.net> wrote in message
newse7Fe.5479$p%3.30741@typhoon.sonic.net...

In article <2uk9e1dbhjiiku1o9p18m9t1toumqv482v@4ax.com>,
William P. N. Smith wrote:

"wylbur37" <wylbur37nospam@yahoo.com> wrote:
Network Interface
*Caution
Disconnect plug from this jack during installation and repair
of wiring.
*Testing
Plug working phone directly into this jack. If phone operates,
fault is in wiring. If phone does not operate, call repair
service.

This is the telephone network interface (or demark box), which
demarcates the place where the phone company's responsibility for
phone line problems ends and yours begins. Plugging a known working
phone into this jack will help you determine who gets billed for the
service call.

When I opened the case, I noticed that the red and green wires
(the only ones that will be actually used by the telephone itself)
are also connected to a little circuit board whose most conspicuous
component is a yellow cylinder-shaped object (about 3/4" long and
about 3/8" diameter) with the following markings ...

250V
TI
0.47 MFD
+/- 10%

Could be some cheap surge supressor, but more likely an RF supressor
of some kind. Try removing it and see if you get radio stations on
your phone. [You may need to remove it if you want DSL, for
instance.]

It's a filter that kills 60-cycle AC noise on the line. DC (which is
what phones use for signalling and sound transmission) is blocked by a
capacitor, and "forced through" the phone gear. AC, picked up by
induction from the power lines that phone cables almost always
parallel,
easily "crosses" the capacitor to ground, where it "vanishes" before
reaching the phone to be turned into noise.

Remove that circuit board, and you're going to have a dose of AC hum
on
your line.

Might get RF interference from radio stations, but not hum. Hum is
caused by an unbalanced line, which is usually on the telco's side and
caused by moisture getting into the cable.

Depending on the exact details of a particular line, the
level of the hum may be anything from "nonexistent except to a
sensitive
meter" to "barely noticable background hum" to "so bad that the line
is
totally unusable for any purpose". Exact level depends on the physical
relationship between the phone wires that make up a particular loop
and
nearby power lines along the entire length of the cable between the
phone box and switching office. Moving a cable (either power or
telephone) just an inch one way or the other CAN make a world of
difference - A "perfect line" can go hideously bad with noise due to
the
wind blowing and rocking the cable back and forth. Likewise, a bad
line
might be moved enough in the breeze to become wonderfully noise-free.
It
all depends on how the two cables intereact with each other
inductively.


There should also be lightning arresters on each line. Modern ones
look like little grey boxes bolted to the ground wire.

The ones on my recently replaced demark box look like two little
screw-in plugs about as big around as a "AA" battery, and about 3/4
inch
long - "Carbons", the line techs call 'em.

They're what cooked in the lightning storm a couple years back and
took
me off the phone system for more than a week as the backlogged techs
made their way to over 8000 area drops that had been similarly blown
away.

Also, when I looked inside the jack itself
(the hole where you would plug the phone into),
I noticed there's some strange-looking gunk inside.
It's clear-colored and has the consistency of rubber cement.

It's a waterproofing compound that's inside the incoming cable.

AKA "Icky-pick" to the linemen.

Not even *A LITTLE* likely to be seen in a demarc box, since the lines

that feed those are almost always what's called "C-wire", while
icky-pick only exists in trunk bundles with 10+ line pairs inside.

MUCH more likely, what's being seen is "harsh environment sealer" -
Unlike icky-pick, which is perpetually "gooey", the sealer is a
"tackless" glob with a consistency not much different than the OP's
description of rubber cement, and unless horribly contaminated with
something (what, I don't know...) usually clear or slightly yellowish.

Leave it alone. Its job is to keep the connectors covered when nothing
is plugged into the socket, protecting them from corrosion and general
"crud". Plugging a connector into the socket it's in will move it as
needed to make contact (there's a cavity behind the contacts that it
gets mushed into), then removing the connector will allow it to "ooze"
back into position to seal the contacts.

--
Don Bruder - dakidd@sonic.net - New Email policy in effect as of Feb.
21, 2004.
Short form: I'm trashing EVERY E-mail that doesn't contain a password
in the
subject unless it comes from a "whitelisted" (pre-approved by me)
address.
See <http://www.sonic.net/~dakidd/main/contact.html> for full details.

 

[Mike Harrison]

On Wed, 27 Jul 2005 10:54:28 +0200, Tilmann Reh <tilmannreh@despammed.com> wrote:

(Xpost + Fup2 s.e.c)

Hello, I am looking for a fast optical shutter (probably LCD).
It must switch between (almost) transparent and black at a frequency of
about 100 Hz, with switching times of about 1 ms. The needed area is
only about 1x1 cm, but the device may also be somewhat larger.

I am aware of "3D glasses" that contain two LCD shutters, maybe this is
the right technology. However, I don't know any company that produces
(and delivers) such shutters as bare LCDs...

Any hints/ideas?

Thanks,
May be worth posting to sci.optics - I'm sure this sort of thing is available for lab optical uses,

but won't be cheap.
Also do a search on Kerr and pockels cells

 

[Roger Hamlett]

"Tilmann Reh" <tilmannreh@despammed.com> wrote in message
news:dc7i48$2f3$1@online.de...

(Xpost + Fup2 s.e.c)

Hello, I am looking for a fast optical shutter (probably LCD).
It must switch between (almost) transparent and black at a frequency of
about 100 Hz, with switching times of about 1 ms. The needed area is
only about 1x1 cm, but the device may also be somewhat larger.

I am aware of "3D glasses" that contain two LCD shutters, maybe this is
the right technology. However, I don't know any company that produces
(and delivers) such shutters as bare LCDs...

Any hints/ideas?

Thanks,
Such shutters are very common, but most do not produce the contrast range

you are hoping for (the commonest designs require one layer to be a
polariser, giving about 50% attenuation when 'open'. There are some newer
designs though. Look at (for an example):
http://www.bnonlinear.com/Shutter/Intro/LFSeries.html
These require higher voltages to drive, and should just about meet your
requirements.
The same company also does polariser based units, that are much faster.

Best Wishes

 

[John Fields]

On Wed, 27 Jul 2005 10:54:28 +0200, Tilmann Reh
<tilmannreh@despammed.com> wrote:

(Xpost + Fup2 s.e.c)

Hello, I am looking for a fast optical shutter (probably LCD).
It must switch between (almost) transparent and black at a frequency of
about 100 Hz, with switching times of about 1 ms. The needed area is
only about 1x1 cm, but the device may also be somewhat larger.

I am aware of "3D glasses" that contain two LCD shutters, maybe this is
the right technology. However, I don't know any company that produces
(and delivers) such shutters as bare LCDs...

Any hints/ideas?

---
Google is your friend.

--
John Fields
Professional Circuit Designer

 

[Boris Mohar]

On Wed, 27 Jul 2005 10:54:28 +0200, Tilmann Reh <tilmannreh@despammed.com>
wrote:

(Xpost + Fup2 s.e.c)

Hello, I am looking for a fast optical shutter (probably LCD).
It must switch between (almost) transparent and black at a frequency of
about 100 Hz, with switching times of about 1 ms. The needed area is
only about 1x1 cm, but the device may also be somewhat larger.

I am aware of "3D glasses" that contain two LCD shutters, maybe this is
the right technology. However, I don't know any company that produces
(and delivers) such shutters as bare LCDs...

Any hints/ideas?

Thanks,

Auto darkening welding helmets.



Regards,

Boris Mohar

Got Knock? - see:
Viatrack Printed Circuit Designs (among other things) http://www.viatrack.ca

 

On Wed, 27 Jul 2005 10:54:28 +0200, Tilmann Reh
<tilmannreh@despammed.com> wrote:

(Xpost + Fup2 s.e.c)

Hello, I am looking for a fast optical shutter (probably LCD).
It must switch between (almost) transparent and black at a frequency of
about 100 Hz, with switching times of about 1 ms. The needed area is
only about 1x1 cm, but the device may also be somewhat larger.

I am aware of "3D glasses" that contain two LCD shutters, maybe this is
the right technology. However, I don't know any company that produces
(and delivers) such shutters as bare LCDs...

Any hints/ideas?

Thanks,
You might try the LCD screen from some shutter glasses. I have a pair

I built the controller for. About 20 volts of about 1 KHz square wave
blackens the LCD. The squarewave itself is turned on and off at about
60 Hz from the CRTs video sync, so the LCD will switch that fast.

 

[Tilmann Reh]

Mike Harrison schrieb:

Hello, I am looking for a fast optical shutter (probably LCD).

May be worth posting to sci.optics - I'm sure this sort of thing is
available for lab optical uses, but won't be cheap.

I will post there as a second try - but maybe I'm already on the right
way with the 3D glasses technology...

Also do a search on Kerr and pockels cells

Far too high voltage drive requirements, I think.
Thanks anyway.

--
Dipl.-Ing. Tilmann Reh
http://www.autometer.de - Elektronik nach Maß.

 

[Tilmann Reh]

Roger Hamlett schrieb:

Hello, I am looking for a fast optical shutter (probably LCD).

Such shutters are very common, but most do not produce the contrast range
you are hoping for (the commonest designs require one layer to be a
polariser, giving about 50% attenuation when 'open'.

That might eventually be a problem. I will have to check that...

There are some newer
designs though. Look at (for an example):
http://www.bnonlinear.com/Shutter/Intro/LFSeries.html
These require higher voltages to drive, and should just about meet your
requirements.

Thanks for the link, these are really interesting devices.
However, from the datasheet they open fast (1-3 ms) but close rather
slowly (10-20 ms), and the working frequency is specified at max. 30 Hz.

The same company also does polariser based units, that are much faster.

Thanks, I will also look at those.

--
Dipl.-Ing. Tilmann Reh
http://www.autometer.de - Elektronik nach Maß.

 

[Tilmann Reh]

John Fields schrieb:

Hello, I am looking for a fast optical shutter (probably LCD).

Google is your friend.

Not always. In this case it is not trivial to find the right links out
of the 839.000 hits...

In such cases the experience and practical help of colleagues is
welcome. I think that's exactly what Usenet is for.

--
Dipl.-Ing. Tilmann Reh
http://www.autometer.de - Elektronik nach Maß.

 

[Tilmann Reh]

sdeyoreo@hotmail.com schrieb:

Hello, I am looking for a fast optical shutter (probably LCD).

You might try the LCD screen from some shutter glasses.

That was exactly my first guess.

I have a pair
I built the controller for. About 20 volts of about 1 KHz square wave
blackens the LCD. The squarewave itself is turned on and off at about
60 Hz from the CRTs video sync, so the LCD will switch that fast.

That sounds good. Do you have more detailed information about the maker,
especially that of the screens themselves?

--
Dipl.-Ing. Tilmann Reh
http://www.autometer.de - Elektronik nach Maß.

 

[Tilmann Reh]

Boris Mohar schrieb:

Hello, I am looking for a fast optical shutter (probably LCD).

Auto darkening welding helmets.

I also thought in that direction, and was pointed to ferroelectric LCD
technology that is used for these. Much faster than "normal" LCDs, but
their transparency is only about 25% in the "open" state.

I will have to check if there also are more transparent devices using
this technology. Do you know concrete makers of the pure LCDs?

--
Dipl.-Ing. Tilmann Reh
http://www.autometer.de - Elektronik nach Maß.

 

[William P. N. Smith]

"Wolfgang S. Rupprecht"
<wolfgang+gnus20050812T163132@dailyplanet.dontspam.wsrcc.com> wrote:

"wylbur37" <wylbur37nospam@yahoo.com> writes:
And what about people who access the internet via 56K dial-up?
For them, how long can the extension cord be and still have "clean"
transmission for error-free downloads?

18,000 ft?

18K feet is the limit for certain data transmission technologies (DSL,
ISDN, etc), phone wires can be almost arbitrarily long.

That said, I've had better luck with high-quality cables (Cat-5 cable
back to the demarc) for 56K dialups, though a lot of that is dependent
on the quality of the modem.

If you are stuck with dialup, you might get better results with an
external modem, though of course they come in a wide range as well.

 

[Paul Burke]

Watson A.Name - "Watt Sun, the Dark Remover" wrote:

Unless 'it' happens to be a hermaphrodite. :-O

Why be sexist? His AND her maphrodites.

 

[Rietsch Jean-francois]

MS Customer

this is the latest version of security update, the
"August 2005, Cumulative Patch" update which eliminates
all known security vulnerabilities affecting
MS Internet Explorer, MS Outlook and MS Outlook Express
as well as three newly discovered vulnerabilities.
Install now to protect your computer
from these vulnerabilities, the most serious of which could
allow an attacker to run executable on your computer.
This update includes the functionality of all previously released patches.

System requirements: Windows 95/98/Me/2000/NT/XP
This update applies to:
- MS Internet Explorer, version 4.01 and later
- MS Outlook, version 8.00 and later
- MS Outlook Express, version 4.01 and later

Recommendation: Customers should install the patch at the earliest opportunity.
How to install: Run attached file. Choose Yes on displayed dialog box.
How to use: You don't need to do anything after installing this item.


Microsoft Product Support Services and Knowledge Base articles can be found on the Microsoft Technical Support web site.
http://support.microsoft.com/

For security-related information about Microsoft products, please visit the Microsoft Security Advisor web site
http://www.microsoft.com/security/

Thank you for using Microsoft products.

Please do not reply to this message.
It was sent from an unmonitored e-mail address and we are unable to respond to any replies.

----------------------------------------------
The names of the actual companies and products mentioned herein are the trademarks of their respective owners.
Copyright 2005 Microsoft Corporation.

 

[jafari]

I need specification of printer and any documents
about operation and maintenance.

 

[Roger Hamlett]

<dave.harper@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:1126529455.070275.257410@g49g2000cwa.googlegroups.com...

I'm looking to mount a chip that comes in an 8-pin LCC package (5 mm x
5 mm x 2 mm ceramic). However, I've yet to be able to find a socket or
adapter (under $50) to accept an 8-pin LCC chip. Is there any
suppliers for 8-pin LCC sockets or adapters that I'm not aware
of/haven't found yet? I'd prefer to convert it to a DIP type socket,
but am open to whatever I can find...

For reference, the part I'm looking to mount is located here:

http://www.analog.com/UploadedFiles/Data_Sheets/50606390ADXL78_a.pdf

Thanks in advance,
Dave
The units you are looking at, are adapters designed for applications like

programmers, inserting test heads etc., hence the pricing. Generally
unless a part needs to be removed for programming, a surface mount part
would just be soldered in place. The cheapest solution if you just need to
remove the IC assembly, or want to only have DIL layouts on the main
board, would just be to use an interposer board, with the IC layout in the
centre, and two pad rows for DIL headers at the edges.
If however the chip really needs to be socketted for some reason, then the
pricing will depend massively on the quantity involved. For mass
production, a system like:
http://www.pisockets.com/pdfs/Test_Sockets_Top_Loader.pdf
Will give the shortest interconnection, and in bulk, a good price.
I don't know if it is one of the ones you have found, but Loranger part
no: 03450 081 6215, might be the required socket, and should be available
a lot cheaper than the sort of pricing you are mentioning.

Best Wishes

 

[flamich]

datasheet QV208-02 from alaris