audio recording on IC -help wanted

On Wed, 27 Apr 2005 13:54:53 GMT, "EN" <res808c4@earthlink.net> wrote:

"DaveC" <me@privacy.net> wrote in message
news:0001HW.BE94828200076515F04075B0@news.sonic.net...
Need some thin copper tape (adhesive foil), about 1 or 1.5 inches wide,
about
16 inches long.

I'd be willing to buy a roll for this one-time use, but all I see is the
3M
stuff at $30-plus. Samples from vendors seem to be a thing of the past.

Is there any non-3M tapes available?
Thanks,
DaveC

How about eBay?

http://search.ebay.com/copper-tape_W0QQfkrZ1QQfromZR8

Most garden supply centers sell copper snail tape.

http://www.charleysgreenhouse.com/index.cfm?page=_productdetails&productid=7705&cid1=-99&cid2=-99&cid3=-99

I've seen it at homedepot and lowes.

 

[RST Engineering (jw)]

Lay awake at night wondering whether "anal retentive" is hyphenated, do ya?

Jim

And again your cross-posted question proves you aren't
using google much. You'd be better to practice using it
rather than doing your corss-posting (which as I said
before is a sign of not using google to find the best
place to ask).

 

[EN]

<isspmtre@ecoweb.co.zw> wrote in message
news:1114670221.985519.78970@z14g2000cwz.googlegroups.com...

I'm desperately looking for a datasheet which desribes display function
and horizontal hold or any accompanying data for the issue of display
for an IC MC44001P.

Thanks

All I have is a MC44011, which is a bus controlled multistandard video
processor. I can't find a 44001. See Motorola Analog Interface Device data
1996 rev6.

 

[EN]

<isspmtre@ecoweb.co.zw> wrote in message
news:1114670221.985519.78970@z14g2000cwz.googlegroups.com...

I'm desperately looking for a datasheet which desribes display function
and horizontal hold or any accompanying data for the issue of display
for an IC MC44001P.

Also there's MC44002P and MC44007P, Chroma 4 Multistandard Video Processor.
P = Plastic DIP.
The MC44011F , FN = PLCC or FB = QFP

 

[Wouter van Ooijen (www.vo]

"Does anyone know who else might make such a device?"

vishay makes a wide range of IR reecivers. I often use the
vishay-telefunken types.



Wouter van Ooijen

-- ------------------------------------
http://www.voti.nl
Webshop for PICs and other electronics
http://www.voti.nl/hvu
Teacher electronics and informatics

 

[EN]

<isspmtre@ecoweb.co.zw> wrote in message
news:1114755567.068437.257000@f14g2000cwb.googlegroups.com...

EN wrote:
isspmtre@ecoweb.co.zw> wrote in message
news:1114670221.985519.78970@z14g2000cwz.googlegroups.com...
I'm desperately looking for a datasheet which desribes display
function
and horizontal hold or any accompanying data for the issue of
display for an IC MC44001P.

Also there's MC44002P and MC44007P, Chroma 4 Multistandard Video
Processor , P = Plastic DIP. The MC44011F , FN = PLCC or FB = QFP

Thanks i've found the 44002 as pdf and downloaded it already. Do you
know if the two chips are similiar to each other, regarding the
adjustments? The 44002 is from Motorola and the 001 is a replacement
for a Nokia TV.
The guy who is working on that TV is currently checking out the 002
datasheet.

All I got is the motorola databook. I don't know a thing about the IC.

 

[Watson A.Name - \"Watt Su]

"keith" <krw@att.bizzzz> wrote in message
newsan.2005.05.02.01.21.49.586377@att.bizzzz...

On Sat, 30 Apr 2005 09:23:16 -0700, Winfield Hill wrote:

keith wrote...

On Thu, 28 Apr 2005 21:06:45 -0400, mc wrote:

How does free distribution of *obsolete* manuals work against
"encouraging
creativity"?

We are not attacking the concept of copyright. Many of us are
saying HP
would benefit from allowing free redistribution on the Web of old
manuals
for equipment that they no longer sell.

In fact you are attacking the concept of copyright. Aligent owns
the
copyright and has the last say. It seems that they _have_ reversed
their
position, so maybe your whining did help. ;-)

I beg to differ, we did not attack Agilent's legal right to
restrict the
manual information if they chose, we attacked Agilent's apparent
choice
to do so.

Speak for youself. ...though I did note that you were going to hide
behind your "library" (fair use) rights. Don't get me wrong, I think
their desision was dumb, but it *was* their desision (fortunately
recinded, AIUI).

It now appears they did no more than (roughly) assert their
right to grant permission after it's sought, which we do not
question.

It's more than that. You (and others) beleived that their rights were
limited by availability. On the contrary, their rights are limited by
their wishes. ...for whatever business reasons they seem to think is
in
their interest.

But we do argue that it would have been unreasonable,

I'm not going to talk about "unreasonable". I don't have the
information.
I *do* know that it is *THEIR* choice.

counterproductive, mean-minded and unfair to deprive the legitimate
owners of their older instruments the right to fully run and
maintain
those instruments, if they were unfortunate enough not to own one
of
the rare original manuals.

Oh, my; "mean-minded"! I want you to publish your books on the
internet.
To do otherwise is "mean-minded". You above all here, should
understand
the importance of the copyright.

And you should learn the difference between a book and a manual.

--
Keith

 

[John Miles]

In article <1115140971.011202.84920@g14g2000cwa.googlegroups.com>,
shoppa@trailing-edge.com says...

Many years ago (like, 20) I bought many 24" x 24" sheets of
single-sided PCB that I've been using to homebrew dead-bug style and
for other activities like soldering together little shielded boxes.
Probably mail-order from Fair Radio.I'm sure I paid very little for the
stuff at the time, probably a few bucks a sheet. Now my stash is
almost gone. Anyone care to recommend a good cheap supplier for
similar single-sided PCB? I'm not picky as to phenolic vs glass-epoxy
or whatever, I just need a good ground plane. Big pieces are good but
I can live with little pieces too.

The stuff I got 20 years ago was, for some reason, pre-tinned. (Maybe
this is why it was so cheap?). That was nice because I don't have to
clean off my dirty fingerprints when coming back to a project after a
few weeks or a few years . Pre-tinned is a big plus.

eBay.

-- jm

------------------------------------------------------
http://www.qsl.net/ke5fx
Note: My E-mail address has been altered to avoid spam
------------------------------------------------------

 

[Joerg]

Hello Tim,

See if there is a PCB manufacturer within resonable driving distance and
ask for scraps. That's how I got a huge stash decades ago. Single and
double sided, the good stuff (FR4). But it has to be picked up, in my
case they wouldn't have gone through the trouble of packaging and
mailing it. Basically it had to be no more effort on their part than a
walk to the dumpster would have been.

Mine weren't tinned though. Also, I am not sure if constantly touching a
pre-tinned board during experiments would be too healthy.

Regards, Joerg

http://www.analogconsultants.com

 

[Joerg]

Hello Tim,

Just one more thought: I use "living-bug" arrangements almost
exclusively. Every once in a while I cut up some strips so they fit the
most popular "underbellies" of chips. Then I glue the strips onto the
large panel and the chips on top of the strips in a rider's fashion.
Ground connection can be achieved by slightly bending down a pin, the
rest gets wired up Sauerkraut style like usual. When stray capacitance
is critical I take washed wood strips instead of copper clad. Makes for
a really nice excuse to eat another Haagen Dasz.

This avoids having to think in reverse pinout and it often looks nicer,
too. Plus you can still see the "CD4007" on the chip.

Regards, Joerg

http://www.analogconsultants.com

 

[John Miles]

In article <TRRde.12358$J12.6081@newssvr14.news.prodigy.com>,
notthisjoergsch@removethispacbell.net says...

Hello Tim,

Just one more thought: I use "living-bug" arrangements almost
exclusively. Every once in a while I cut up some strips so they fit the
most popular "underbellies" of chips. Then I glue the strips onto the
large panel and the chips on top of the strips in a rider's fashion.
Ground connection can be achieved by slightly bending down a pin, the
rest gets wired up Sauerkraut style like usual. When stray capacitance
is critical I take washed wood strips instead of copper clad. Makes for
a really nice excuse to eat another Haagen Dasz.

This avoids having to think in reverse pinout and it often looks nicer,
too. Plus you can still see the "CD4007" on the chip.

Or you can just bend all but the ground pins outward from the base of
the chip (e.g., www.speakeasy.net/
~jmiles1/ke5fx/492ap/large/close1.jpg). The pins won't break if you
don't flex them more than once or twice.

Sometimes I'll use a drop of cynaoacrylate adhesive to hold the chip
into place if there are few or no grounded pins, but it's rarely
necessary.

This also works for SOICs and even TSSOPs, as long as you don't bend the
pins more than once.

-- jm

------------------------------------------------------
http://www.qsl.net/ke5fx
Note: My E-mail address has been altered to avoid spam
------------------------------------------------------

 

[Joerg]

Hello John,

Or you can just bend all but the ground pins outward from the base of
the chip (e.g., www.speakeasy.net/
~jmiles1/ke5fx/492ap/large/close1.jpg). The pins won't break if you
don't flex them more than once or twice.

But then I won't have an excuse to eat another Haagen Dasz bar :-(

Regards, Joerg

http://www.analogconsultants.com

 

[Franc Zabkar]

On 4 May 2005 06:24:56 -0700, tarchanjan@gmail.com put finger to
keyboard and composed:

I need to replace a 1 amp fast recovery rectifier diode, out of a power
supply, but I'm uncertain of the numbers/letters on the blown part. Can
anyone help out?

31DF
4 7K

Go here ...

http://nte01.nteinc.com/nte/NTExRefSemiProd.nsf/$$Search?OpenForm

.... and search for "*31DF*"

Or you could probably locate the original part (31DF02/04) at
http://www.irf.com


- Franc Zabkar
--
Please remove one 's' from my address when replying by email.

 

[beerbarrel]

On 3 May 2005 10:22:51 -0700, "Tim Shoppa" <shoppa@trailing-edge.com>
wrote:

Many years ago (like, 20) I bought many 24" x 24" sheets of
single-sided PCB that I've been using to homebrew dead-bug style and
for other activities like soldering together little shielded boxes.
Probably mail-order from Fair Radio.I'm sure I paid very little for the
stuff at the time, probably a few bucks a sheet. Now my stash is
almost gone. Anyone care to recommend a good cheap supplier for
similar single-sided PCB? I'm not picky as to phenolic vs glass-epoxy
or whatever, I just need a good ground plane. Big pieces are good but
I can live with little pieces too.

The stuff I got 20 years ago was, for some reason, pre-tinned. (Maybe
this is why it was so cheap?). That was nice because I don't have to
clean off my dirty fingerprints when coming back to a project after a
few weeks or a few years . Pre-tinned is a big plus.

For what it is worth, as the others say Ebay is good. I picked up 5
24" by 24" double sided sheets for 20 dollars.
_____________________
www.ReformUS.org

 

[Watson A.Name - \"Watt Su]

"Joerg" <notthisjoergsch@removethispacbell.net> wrote in message
news:gLRde.1742$5o2.960@newssvr13.news.prodigy.com...

Hello Tim,

See if there is a PCB manufacturer within resonable driving distance
and
ask for scraps. That's how I got a huge stash decades ago. Single and
double sided, the good stuff (FR4). But it has to be picked up, in my
case they wouldn't have gone through the trouble of packaging and
mailing it. Basically it had to be no more effort on their part than a
walk to the dumpster would have been.

Mine weren't tinned though. Also, I am not sure if constantly touching
a
pre-tinned board during experiments would be too healthy.

Why is that? Lead? I thought that paint with lead in it was a lot
worse.

Regards, Joerg

http://www.analogconsultants.com

 

[Watson A.Name - \"Watt Su]

"Joerg" <notthisjoergsch@removethispacbell.net> wrote in message
news:TRRde.12358$J12.6081@newssvr14.news.prodigy.com...

Hello Tim,

Just one more thought: I use "living-bug" arrangements almost
exclusively. Every once in a while I cut up some strips so they fit
the
most popular "underbellies" of chips. Then I glue the strips onto the
large panel and the chips on top of the strips in a rider's fashion.
Ground connection can be achieved by slightly bending down a pin, the
rest gets wired up Sauerkraut style like usual. When stray capacitance
is critical I take washed wood strips instead of copper clad. Makes
for
a really nice excuse to eat another Haagen Dasz.

This avoids having to think in reverse pinout and it often looks
nicer,
too. Plus you can still see the "CD4007" on the chip.

Back in the early '70s I got some prototype boards from a company that
made aircraft receivers. They used four push-in pins, one for each lead
of the four corners of the IC. Two of these are usually power and
ground, pins 7 or 8 and 14 or 16. These four hold the chip up off the
board, and the other pins are wired spaghetti style, which I presume is
the same as your sauerkraut style.

Speaking of this.. Last Sunday at our monthly compouter club meeting
someone donated a homemade S-100 system to the consignment table, but no
one bought it, so it ended up on the freebies table later, probably then
into the trash later. It had a chassis and box pop riveted together,
and the S-100 bus was all wire wrapped. A lotta love and time went into
building that way back in the late '70s.

Regards, Joerg

http://www.analogconsultants.com

 

[Watson A.Name - \"Watt Su]

"Joerg" <notthisjoergsch@removethispacbell.net> wrote in message
news:1T8ee.2241$5o2.1697@newssvr13.news.prodigy.com...

Hello John,

Or you can just bend all but the ground pins outward from the base
of
the chip (e.g., www.speakeasy.net/
~jmiles1/ke5fx/492ap/large/close1.jpg). The pins won't break if you
don't flex them more than once or twice.

But then I won't have an excuse to eat another Haagen Dasz bar :-(

You don't need an excuse. We give you permission. ;-)

BTW, you can go to Michaels or other hobby/crafts store and buy a whole
handful of ice scream sticks for a couple bucks. You don't have to wash
'em, then.

Every year the Engineering Club has a model bridge building contest.
They make them out of ice scream sticks. They support the ends of the
bridge on some bricks and suspend a bucket from the middle. Then fill
the bucket with sand until CRACK! the bridge crumples. Pretty neat!

You could come on over afterward and get some free slightly used ice
scream sticks.

Regards, Joerg

http://www.analogconsultants.com

 

[Watson A.Name - \"Watt Su]

<tarchanjan@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:1115213095.967270.91260@g14g2000cwa.googlegroups.com...

I need to replace a 1 amp fast recovery rectifier diode, out of a
power
supply, but I'm uncertain of the numbers/letters on the blown part.
Can
anyone help out?

31DF
4 7K

I'm not sure if it's a "1" after the three of a lower case letter "l"
or even an upper case letter "I".

A component shop told me I should be able to use DTE 576 as a
replacement part. But, I'm not totally convinced.

Any help would be greatly appreciated

I've seen 1A diodes in several flavors. There are the usual slow 1N4004
series. Then there are fast recovery types. And then there are
ultrafast recovery types. And then there are Schottky rectifiers.

Info I got from a recent discussion here is that if you replace with the
wrong kind, they might last for a few weeks or months, then fail. So
it's wise to use the right flavor for long-term viability. ;-)

Oh, one other thing. If you had a 1A fail, it might be wise to use a
1.5A version as a replacement.

 

[Watson A.Name - \"Watt Su]

"Tim Shoppa" <shoppa@trailing-edge.com> wrote in message
news:1115214041.606086.166210@z14g2000cwz.googlegroups.com...

A component shop told me I should be able
to use DTE 576 as a replacement part.

They probably meant NTE576, and they're probably right that it'd be a
suitable replacement for that component. It's a 5Amp fast diode so it
should be good enough. It's also 400 PIV, which should be enough for
many (but not all) line-operated supplies.

It won't necessarily fix the unit, as if there is a fault elsewhere
you're likely to blow the diode again.

Tim.

Like maybe a snubber RC not doing their job?

 

[Bill]

beerbarrel wrote:

For what it is worth, as the others say Ebay is good. I picked up 5
24" by 24" double sided sheets for 20 dollars.

Ditto. You got a better deal than I did. I got 5 sheets about 14x14,
single sided, for 10 bucks.

-Bill