audio recording on IC -help wanted

[Ross Herbert]

On 08 Apr 2005 12:14:03 GMT, Ian Stirling <root@mauve.demon.co.uk>
wrote:

In sci.electronics.design Ross Herbert <rherber1SPAMEX@bigpond.net.au> wrote:
On Thu, 07 Apr 2005 23:21:40 GMT, Bill Janssen <billj9@ieee.org
wrote:

Ian Stirling wrote:

In sci.electronics.design Albert <> wrote:


Does anyone know how to measure or determine the wire size. I have
tons of motors, solenoids, and similar items. I need some #24 wire and
some #30 for a coil, but have to be sure regarding the wire diameter
as it's a critical ap and the author of the article says 'don't
substitute'.

Micrometer.
Vernier caliper may also work.
Either under $30US.

And don't forget to remove any insulation before measuring the wire.

Correct Bill. However DO NOT scrape the insulation from the wire since
this can alter the physical diameter of the wire. It is best to dip a
portion of the wire in fast acting paint stripper and wipe the
softened insulation off with a rag.

Blowtorch to heat to dull red heat, and then wipe insulation off.

Sure is another option if nothing else. However, methinks it would
take just as much time to get a blowtorch out and running as it does
to open a can of paint stripper. It only takes 30 secs to soften the
insulation, and believe me, the result from the blowtorch is nowhere
as neat as the paint stripper.

 

oparr@hotmail.com wrote:

Gone through 3 or 4 from Staples and Office Depot that lasted no more
than a few months because the base was made of plastic. Basically, the
peg or stud on the base that fits in the mounting clamp just breaks
off.

The foot breaks off or the mounting clamp breaks? We used to drill an
appropriately-sized hole in our desktops to stick the peg into...

 

[Ray L. Volts]

<oparr@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:1112973846.099873.104730@f14g2000cwb.googlegroups.com...

I'm looking for something similar to that in the link below in the
price range $40.00 - $70.00 **with an all metal base**. Any
recommendations?

http://amos.shop.com/amos/cc/pcd/10518341/prd/16056212/ccsyn/260

Gone through 3 or 4 from Staples and Office Depot that lasted no more
than a few months because the base was made of plastic. Basically, the
peg or stud on the base that fits in the mounting clamp just breaks
off. After that they are useless unless one improvises. Online searches
return many but it's difficult to tell what you're really getting even
if you ask someone at the store.

I've been through several of these, too, but it's usually the springs or
irreplaceable lower spring hooks that have failed. You definitely don't
need to spend $100+ on the things to get good quality. My current lamp is
an LTS brand clamp-on model -- sorry I forget the model # and if it was ever
labelled on the body, it isn't anymore. I do recall it only cost about $40.

The plastic parts on it are:
the light switch
the spring tension knobs
the bulb socket
an ac socket on the xformer case (is often very handy!)
the power cord feed-thrus
the power cord insulation and strain reliefs =D

It's white to match my bench laminate, so it, too, is (or was) available in
more than 1 color.
I've abused the hell out of this lamp on a daily basis for over 10 years and
it's still going strong. Never had to replace the bulb, either. If this
lamp ever fails, I'll most likely replace it with another LTS.

If you've had it with desktop models, maybe a floor unit would suit you.
This place offers both types, in 5-diopter versions as well:

http://www.crownlighting.com/


Good luck,
Ray

 

[Ross Herbert]

On 8 Apr 2005 08:24:06 -0700, oparr@hotmail.com wrote:

I'm looking for something similar to that in the link below in the
price range $40.00 - $70.00 **with an all metal base**. Any
recommendations?

http://amos.shop.com/amos/cc/pcd/10518341/prd/16056212/ccsyn/260

Gone through 3 or 4 from Staples and Office Depot that lasted no more
than a few months because the base was made of plastic. Basically, the
peg or stud on the base that fits in the mounting clamp just breaks
off. After that they are useless unless one improvises. Online searches
return many but it's difficult to tell what you're really getting even
if you ask someone at the store.

I doubt very much that you will be able to find a solid base
magnifying lamp for less than USD70. For any good quality magnifier,
the circular lamp alone costs 1/4 that price and then the solid glass
lens is more than $70 to replace.

The BEST lamp available for this work is called Maggylamp and they
don't come cheap
http://www.wiltronics.com.au/catalogue/shop.php?cid=448

I have one which was built nearly 50 years ago and it is still going
strong. The base is cast iron and total weight is 7kg.

 

[Ross Herbert]

On 9 Apr 2005 06:02:52 -0700, oparr@hotmail.com wrote:

I doubt very much that you will be able to find a solid base
magnifying lamp for less than USD70.

Don't want a solid base lamp. Wan't one similar to the linked image
with a reach of over 40". Problem is with a reach like that, the peg
and base has to be all metal, plastic just doesn't cut it.

The BEST lamp available for this work is called Maggylamp

It would be useless for my purposes. I need to swivel the lamp over my
lathe when turning, swivel to the drill when drilling, swivel to the
shear when cutting, swivel to electronics bench when placing,
soldering...etc. Two of these lamps is all I need based on how the
tables are set up. McMaster Carr sells what I need between $70 - $90
and the mgnification is 2.75X. Still looking for something cheaper. But
you're right about the magnifying lens, most of the cheaper lamps are
only 1.75X.

ELECTRIX make a few different models which seem to be more rugged.
http://www.cleansweepsupply.com/search/catalog/m+115.htm However, you
pay for the ruggedness.

 

[oparr]

Thanks, I'll take a look.

"Ross Herbert" <rherber1SPAMEX@bigpond.net.au> wrote in message
news:6prf51hmoql1v0i0pab772g0q6g0v1e2d7@4ax.com...

ELECTRIX make a few different models which seem to be more rugged.
http://www.cleansweepsupply.com/search/catalog/m+115.htm However, you
pay for the ruggedness.

 

[Michael A. Terrell]

oparr@hotmail.com wrote:

I doubt very much that you will be able to find a solid base
magnifying lamp for less than USD70.

Don't want a solid base lamp. Wan't one similar to the linked image
with a reach of over 40". Problem is with a reach like that, the peg
and base has to be all metal, plastic just doesn't cut it.

The BEST lamp available for this work is called Maggylamp

It would be useless for my purposes. I need to swivel the lamp over my
lathe when turning, swivel to the drill when drilling, swivel to the
shear when cutting, swivel to electronics bench when placing,
soldering...etc. Two of these lamps is all I need based on how the
tables are set up. McMaster Carr sells what I need between $70 - $90
and the mgnification is 2.75X. Still looking for something cheaper. But
you're right about the magnifying lens, most of the cheaper lamps are
only 1.75X.

<http://ww2.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=31679>
is a cheap incandescent version for $9.99.
--
Former professional electron wrangler.

Michael A. Terrell
Central Florida

 

[Fred Bartoli]

"Watson A.Name - "Watt Sun, the Dark Remover"" <NOSPAM@dslextreme.com> a
écrit dans le message de news:115kqrjdvlrhtcc@corp.supernews.com...

I got some basic info from my Moto manual for the 2N3436. But a google
brought up almost nothing other than the Digchip website. I jumped thru
all the hoops to register, but was sadly disappointed. The dfatasheet
they offered was for a Solitron chip, not the finished device. And the
part no's they said it was used in were not 2N3436. Nor could I trace
any crossref to those no's. No 'provenance' so to speak. Leaves me
wondering if this database is even valid.

I know that JFETs are a lot alike, but usually I can find out if the FET
is optimized for RF, or low noise audio or LF, or switching, etc. But
apparently not in this case. About the only thing I found was that it
is in the TO-18 case.

Found this one:

http://www.americanmicrosemi.com/products/specs/2N3436.phtml


--
Thanks,
Fred.

 

"Siddhartha Jain" <losttoy@gmail.com> wrote:

I have one of these Vosonic VP300 Mp3-cum-card reader HDD based device.
It uses a very slim 7.2v Li-Ion battery.
http://www.pccasegear.com/prod1765.htm

Make sure your problem is the battery and not the charger circuit
built into the box. Mine turned out the be the charge circuit, so I
just yanked the battery and have to run it on the AC wall-wart.

 

[Wayne]

"PT" <westford97-google1@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:1113315029.114154.281630@l41g2000cwc.googlegroups.com...

Looking for a replacement motor start capacitor. You would think this
is something easy to find, but places that sell well pumps and parts
only sell the whole control box and not the individual components
inside. Anyway...

Here is what I am looking for...

http://tinyurl.com/3utv2

Problem is, this place in the above URL (meci.com) has a $20 minumum
order PLUS another $8 or whatever it is for shipping. So this $1.40 cap
would actually cost me nearly $30 and I would have to come up with more
stuff for the cart which I don't really need or want.

Other places that have them like Mouser, etc. tend to want $15+ per cap
plus shipping again. I have been searching for other surplus places
that may have them, but so far no luck.

So if anyone has anything like this laying around their electronics
junk pile or knows a place that sells this sort of thing without a big
minimum and/or big shipping charges, please let me know.

Thanks,
PT

Maybe there is an electronics salvage store in your area.

Frye's or Gateway Electronics.

A motor repair shop..

 

"Siddhartha Jain" <losttoy@gmail.com> wrote:

William wrote:
Make sure your problem is the battery and not the charger circuit
built into the box. Mine turned out the be the charge circuit, so I
just yanked the battery and have to run it on the AC wall-wart.

The Li-Ion battery anyways doesn't last much.

Yes, and the battery charge circuit doesn't always last much either.
Do you have a short battery life or _no_ battery life?

 

[Watson A.Name - \"Watt Su]

"PT" <westford97-google1@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:1113315029.114154.281630@l41g2000cwc.googlegroups.com...

Looking for a replacement motor start capacitor. You would think this
is something easy to find, but places that sell well pumps and parts
only sell the whole control box and not the individual components
inside. Anyway...

Here is what I am looking for...

http://tinyurl.com/3utv2

They used to have them in larger appliances like washing machines, etc.
You should be able to get them new or used from an appliance repair or
distributors such as Grainger. Funny, the other day I heard a
commercial on an FM station for Grainger, which I thought unusual
because they normally don't care to deal with the general public.
They're kind of an industrial supply, with the will call, etc. I've had
no problems with them, tho.

Problem is, this place in the above URL (meci.com) has a $20 minumum
order PLUS another $8 or whatever it is for shipping. So this $1.40
cap
would actually cost me nearly $30 and I would have to come up with
more
stuff for the cart which I don't really need or want.

Other places that have them like Mouser, etc. tend to want $15+ per
cap
plus shipping again. I have been searching for other surplus places
that may have them, but so far no luck.

So if anyone has anything like this laying around their electronics
junk pile or knows a place that sells this sort of thing without a big
minimum and/or big shipping charges, please let me know.

Thanks,
PT

 

[Wolfgang Mahringer]

Dear Tim,

Astroman wrote:

Does anyone know where I can get hold of the surface mount version of the
PIC10F series here in the UK ? Crownhill only do the 8 pin DIP version
which I think really defeats the object when only 6 pins are used!

Tried Maplin, Farnell and RS and they don't do them. Any help much
appreciated.

Well, I don't know where you had your eyes....

Farnell: 7406022, 7406046, 7406060, 7406083
all in SOT-23.

HTH
Wolfgang

--
From-address is Spam trap
Use: wolfgang (dot) mahringer (at) sbg (dot) at

 

[Wayne]

"PT" <westford97-google1@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:1113315029.114154.281630@l41g2000cwc.googlegroups.com...

Looking for a replacement motor start capacitor. You would think this
is something easy to find, but places that sell well pumps and parts
only sell the whole control box and not the individual components
inside. Anyway...

Here is what I am looking for...

http://tinyurl.com/3utv2

Problem is, this place in the above URL (meci.com) has a $20 minumum
order PLUS another $8 or whatever it is for shipping. So this $1.40 cap
would actually cost me nearly $30 and I would have to come up with more
stuff for the cart which I don't really need or want.

Other places that have them like Mouser, etc. tend to want $15+ per cap
plus shipping again. I have been searching for other surplus places
that may have them, but so far no luck.

So if anyone has anything like this laying around their electronics
junk pile or knows a place that sells this sort of thing without a big
minimum and/or big shipping charges, please let me know.

Thanks,
PT

These guys just may have what you need.
http://www.sciplus.com

 

[Jim Adney]

On 12 Apr 2005 07:10:29 -0700 "PT" <westford97-google1@yahoo.com>
wrote:

Looking for a replacement motor start capacitor. You would think this
is something easy to find, but places that sell well pumps and parts
only sell the whole control box and not the individual components
inside.

I didn't look at your URL, but if this is just a normal motor start
capacitor any electric motor repair shop, or electrical supply house,
will sell them.

-
-----------------------------------------------
Jim Adney jadney@vwtype3.org
Madison, WI 53711 USA
-----------------------------------------------

 

"Siddhartha Jain" <losttoy@gmail.com> wrote:

William P. N. Smith wrote:
Do you have a short battery life or _no_ battery life?

Now it simply doesn't start on the battery.

That would be the "no battery life" answer. Get a DVM and check to
see if the charge circuit is even trying to charge the battery...

 

[mc]

Maybe an appliance-parts jobber in your town?

 

[Watson A.Name - \"Watt Su]

<alanh_27@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:1113460620.539598.25280@o13g2000cwo.googlegroups.com...

any COTS ultrasonic-toothbrushii out there, that can deliver a
significant amount of ultrasonic cleaning power to a basin of water?

Hey, if the 'basin' is just a few CC's, then no problem.

 

[Dave Platt]

In article <8b226cfb.0504140931.55c61f85@posting.google.com>,
clicliclic <clicliclic@freenet.de> wrote:

what is the active ingredient for the removal of oxide and sulfide
layers that is found in standard contact cleaning sprays? If you put
some spray some onto white paper it will leave oily stains of a
reddish color.

Fifty years ago such an orange or red oily liquid used to be available
in small bottles, and just a small droplet was applied to a contact to
be cleaned.

Something of this sort is still available. It used to be called by
the brand name of Cramolin (I believe this was made in Germany), and
the Caig Laboratories company now makes a similar product under the
brand name of DeOxIt.

Is the active ingredient an organic liquid of red color, or perhaps a
solid red chemical dissolved in an organic solvent? What is its name
or chemical formula?

The MSDS (Material Safety Data Sheets) I've looked at for the Caig
products are somewhat unrevealing. The active ingredients are
proprietary / trade secret and are not specifically described.

According to one USENET posting I've seen in rec.antiques.radio+phono,
it is possible that one of the active ingredients is oleic acid. "As
to the anti-oxidant qualities of Oleic acid, it has been used for
years in metal-finishing as a cleaner. It is the active ingredient in
well-known brass-clock cleaning compounds (though "tempered" with
acetone), and in several other similar applications."

Another posting states that

As Peter pointed out (which I had forgotten), oleic acid is the main
ingredient in clock-cleaning formulas that have been in use for a
very long time. Since acetone doesn't dissolve oxides, that pretty
much leaves the oleic acid as the active ingredient.

I've been curious for years about Cramolin's (DeOxit's) composition.
The MSDS doesn't list it, but somewhere years ago I read that it was
oleic acid. And I found a 1930 trademark registration for the
original German product, under the name Gramolin, described as a
treatment for motor commutators. It's not much of a stretch to get
"Gramolin" from "Gramme" (DC machines were sometimes referred to as
Gramme machines) and "olin" from "olein," some of the derivatives of
oleic acid.

http://www.ibiblio.org/herbmed/eclectic/kings/acidum-olei.html gives a
description of oleic acid, and mentions that in the (impure) form in
which it's often manufactured it's a dark, reddish-yellow or
brownish-red oil. Once fully purified it's colorless.

So, it would not be surprising if the sprays to which you are
referring are a mixture of somewhat-purified oleic acid, with solvents
(e.g. various alcohols) and propellants (propane and/or carbon
dioxide).

--
Dave Platt <dplatt@radagast.org> AE6EO
Hosting the Jade Warrior home page: http://www.radagast.org/jade-warrior
I do _not_ wish to receive unsolicited commercial email, and I will
boycott any company which has the gall to send me such ads!

 

[Dave Platt]

So, it would not be surprising if the sprays to which you are
referring are a mixture of somewhat-purified oleic acid, with solvents
(e.g. various alcohols) and propellants (propane and/or carbon
dioxide).

And, as a followup... it looks as if it wouldn't be difficult or
expensive to experiment with this stuff to see if it's the real thing.
After a few minutes of searching on Google I see one supplier selling
oleic acid for under $14/gallon (purity not stated), and another
selling laboratory-grade for $24 per pint or $95 per gallon.

One could make a lot of contact cleaner with a gallon of this stuff

--
Dave Platt <dplatt@radagast.org> AE6EO
Hosting the Jade Warrior home page: http://www.radagast.org/jade-warrior
I do _not_ wish to receive unsolicited commercial email, and I will
boycott any company which has the gall to send me such ads!