audio recording on IC -help wanted

[Mark Zenier]

In article <edb06ee9.0307110432.6f7b7a51@posting.google.com>,
Chris <engelburt@beer.com> wrote:

Peter Bennett <peterbb@interchange.ubc.ca> wrote in message
news:<9lirgv8qjoc35b17n85lvbmlbfth1298lv@4ax.com>...
On 10 Jul 2003 09:31:16 -0700, engelburt@beer.com (Chris) wrote:

Hi all

I'm trying to find some connectors the same as those used on the leads
from the front panel of a PC (i.e. the reset switch, leds, atx power
on), it's the small 2.54mm pitch (crimp housing?) connectors which fit
on to the motherboard headers. I thought it would be a simple quick
search but so far no luck.

AMP (now part of Tyco) makes them in their AMPModu (and other) series.

Digikey also shows some from Molex.

Thanks for the response, I probably should have mentioned that I am in
the U.K. but at least I know what I'm looking for now.

Another line is the (Du Pont?) Berg "Bergcon MiniPV".
(Very expensive, though. Most of what you're looking for are asian
clones of these).

Mark Zenier mzenier@eskimo.com Washington State resident

 

[Dr. Rev. Chuck, M.D. P.A.]

N. Thornton wrote:

"Kevin G. Rhoads" <Kevin.Rhoads@Dartmouth.edu> wrote in message news:<3F0ECE7F.77489938@Dartmouth.edu>...
I know that they don't use Bakelite
anymore,

Bakelite powder can still be obtained. The problem will be
getting moulds and moulding equipment to press it while baking
it. But the supply houses for metallurgical preparation have
Bakelite powder for sale. It is used for casting sample
holders around metal shards or pieces as the first step in
the preparation for metalurgical analysis. (?sp) Buehler
is one supplier. They also sell moulds and moulding equipement,
primarily for casing 1" diameter cylinders of arbitrary height.

Dont underestimate this one - When Ekco made radio cases from bakelite
they used a press delivering over 100 tons of force to get that powder
squished together. Bakelite is also thermoset not thermoplastic.
Making things that way will not be easy, unless theres some clever
trick I dont know of.

Bakelite was developed as a substitute for shellac, shellac is way
easier to use! And easy to get hold of too.

Regards, NT

Check suppliers like Woodcraft for burn-in shellac sticks, used to
repair nicked furniture. I imagine they can just as readily be melted
and poured into molds. The purity is higher than canned shellac, which
always contains up to 10% wax, which you'd have to let settle out
for two weeks, minimum. Shelf life is a BIG drawback with the
canned stuff. Don't use it within six months of purchase, it'll
fail to cure. With the stick form, shelf life is forever.

 

[Johnboy]

Go to "Samtec" then pick out your free samples!
I have used their sample service before I specified
cables for production. Great service

Hi all

I'm trying to find some connectors the same as those used on the
leads
from the front panel of a PC (i.e. the reset switch, leds, atx
power
on), it's the small 2.54mm pitch (crimp housing?) connectors
which fit
on to the motherboard headers. I thought it would be a simple
quick
search but so far no luck.

 

[Watson A.Name - 'Watt Sun]

In article <3F1009D8.8FBA6334@btopenworld.com>,
jumbos.bazzar@btopenworld.com mentioned...

Hiya!

I've had an LM3909 with one LED connected to a D size duracell since Feb
1995 (I dated it!), and it's still going!!!! That was the beauty of the
3909, such a low current draw.

Yours, Mark.

I'm sure that if you put a D cell on this circuit, you would get some
similar length of time, if not more.

http://www.imagineeringezine.com/PDF-FILES/ac14fls.pdf

I've made flashers with two transistors that run for a year off two
supposedly dead AA cells. Not a big thing.

"Watson A.Name - 'Watt Sun'" wrote:

In article <3F0F34B2.AF96CAC3@execulink.com>, horizone@execulink.com
mentioned...
Try an LM3914N as a driver.

Where'd you ever get the idea that that part number is even close to
the 3909? Besides, a two transistor flasher circuit will do the same
thing.

dave@horizoncomputing.ca

Daphne Martindell wrote:

I tried both digikey.com and radioshack.com and neither
carry this ~obsolete part anymore, Where can I buy this
part,or is there a replacement?

thanks,
-steve martindell

--

--
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Don't be ripped off by the big book dealers. Go to the URL
that will give you a choice and save you money(up to half).
http://www.everybookstore.com You'll be glad you did!
Just when you thought you had all this figured out, the gov't
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@@t@h@e@@a@f@f@l@u@e@n@t@@m@e@e@t@@t@h@e@@E@f@f@l@u@e@n@t@@

 

[Watson A.Name - 'Watt Sun]

In article <frmQa.340$ym.142100@news20.bellglobal.com>,
ksleep@sympatico.ca mentioned...

May I suggest the flasher found here:

http://www.imagineeringezine.com/PDF-FILES/ac14fls.pdf

Its a great little circuit that I have used a dozen times, and works as
well, if not better than the ic you are looking for, but uses commonly
available parts.
Its a smart, well designed schematic, like all others on this web site.
Give it a try...
Kim

That's the same one I poseted in another followup.
Here's one from the same website that runs for even longer than the
one above.

http://www.imagineeringezine.com/PDF-FILES/1vled3.pdf

What's the significance of using only the AC parts?
Maybe I oughtta go to the data sheets..

"Mark (UK)" <jumbos.bazzar@btopenworld.com> wrote in message
news:3F1009D8.8FBA6334@btopenworld.com...
Hiya!

I've had an LM3909 with one LED connected to a D size duracell since Feb
1995 (I dated it!), and it's still going!!!! That was the beauty of the
3909, such a low current draw.

Yours, Mark.

"Watson A.Name - 'Watt Sun'" wrote:

[snip]

--
@@F@r@o@m@@O@r@a@n@g@e@@C@o@u@n@t@y@,@@C@a@l@,@@w@h@e@r@e@@
###Got a Question about ELECTRONICS? Check HERE First:###
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My email address is whitelisted. *All* email sent to it
goes directly to the trash unless you add NOSPAM in the
Subject: line with other stuff. alondra101 <at> hotmail.com
Don't be ripped off by the big book dealers. Go to the URL
that will give you a choice and save you money(up to half).
http://www.everybookstore.com You'll be glad you did!
Just when you thought you had all this figured out, the gov't
changed it: http://physics.nist.gov/cuu/Units/binary.html
@@t@h@e@@a@f@f@l@u@e@n@t@@m@e@e@t@@t@h@e@@E@f@f@l@u@e@n@t@@

 

[Ian Buckner]

"Watson A.Name - 'Watt Sun'" <alondra101@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:MPG.197816668c9f7a4b989a61@news.inreach.net...
<snip>

As far as I know, cotton is much more flammable than synthetic
fibers.

BTW, my dictionary defines immolation as offering in sacrifice. It
says nothing about the method used for making that sacrifice.


--
snip

My dictionary says ".....especially by burning".

Regards
Ian

 

[edge]

to me the first schematic symbol, looks like it would represent a push
button switch



"Mark (UK)" <jumbos.bazzar@btopenworld.com> wrote in message
news:3F13100E.55E98D94@btopenworld.com...

Hi all!

Okay, I've come across a symbol that I'm not sure of it's meaning:

http://www.leopardcats.com/oddities/schem_v.gif

It's an extract from the Atari Pokey chip internal schematic. I know
that they are two logic inverters, but what does the line hovering above
the output of the right inverter coming from the output of the other one
denote??

Also, take a look at this extract:

http://www.leopardcats.com/oddities/schem_2.gif

Why do they have lots of these inverters in a line? Is it to produce a
small delay or something like that? There are numbers inside those gates
as well, what do they represent??

If you need more info, like the rest of the diagram, let me know and
I'll forward it (It's 1.36mb and won't fit on my webspace!)

Sorry for all the questions! All help appreciated.

Yours, Mark.

 

[Mark (UK)]

Hiya!

Hmmm, thanks for the idea, but this is from the internals of a custom 40
Pin IC, so not much room for a push button switch. An analog switch
maybe??

Yours, Mark.

edge wrote:

to me the first schematic symbol, looks like it would represent a push
button switch

"Mark (UK)" <jumbos.bazzar@btopenworld.com> wrote in message
news:3F13100E.55E98D94@btopenworld.com...
Hi all!

Okay, I've come across a symbol that I'm not sure of it's meaning:

http://www.leopardcats.com/oddities/schem_v.gif

It's an extract from the Atari Pokey chip internal schematic. I know
that they are two logic inverters, but what does the line hovering above
the output of the right inverter coming from the output of the other one
denote??

Also, take a look at this extract:

http://www.leopardcats.com/oddities/schem_2.gif

Why do they have lots of these inverters in a line? Is it to produce a
small delay or something like that? There are numbers inside those gates
as well, what do they represent??

If you need more info, like the rest of the diagram, let me know and
I'll forward it (It's 1.36mb and won't fit on my webspace!)

Sorry for all the questions! All help appreciated.

Yours, Mark.

 

[Geir Klemetsen]

"Mark (UK)" <jumbos.bazzar@btopenworld.com> skrev i melding
news:3F13100E.55E98D94@btopenworld.com...

Hi all!

Okay, I've come across a symbol that I'm not sure of it's meaning:

http://www.leopardcats.com/oddities/schem_v.gif

It's an extract from the Atari Pokey chip internal schematic. I know
that they are two logic inverters, but what does the line hovering above
the output of the right inverter coming from the output of the other one
denote??

Also, take a look at this extract:

http://www.leopardcats.com/oddities/schem_2.gif

Why do they have lots of these inverters in a line? Is it to produce a
small delay or something like that? There are numbers inside those gates
as well, what do they represent??

If you need more info, like the rest of the diagram, let me know and
I'll forward it (It's 1.36mb and won't fit on my webspace!)

Sorry for all the questions! All help appreciated.

Yours, Mark.

Looks like two schmittriggers to me, but it can't be because of te output to
the left one is grounded.
Now i also wonder what it is.

 

[Watson A.Name - 'Watt Sun]

In article <1058175512.210996@cswreg.cos.agilent.com>,
Ian_Buckner@agilent.com mentioned...

"Watson A.Name - 'Watt Sun'" <alondra101@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:MPG.197816668c9f7a4b989a61@news.inreach.net...
snip
As far as I know, cotton is much more flammable than synthetic
fibers.

BTW, my dictionary defines immolation as offering in sacrifice. It
says nothing about the method used for making that sacrifice.


--
snip

My dictionary says ".....especially by burning".

Regards
Ian

http://define.ansme.com/words/i/immolation.html Fire not mentioned.

http://www.m-w.com/cgi-bin/dictionary Search for immolate. Mentions
by fire in the second def, but not the first.

http://dictionary.reference.com/search?q=immolate Same thing,
mentioned fire in second def.

In any case, it was a poor choice of words for the original post.



--
@@F@r@o@m@@O@r@a@n@g@e@@C@o@u@n@t@y@,@@C@a@l@,@@w@h@e@r@e@@
###Got a Question about ELECTRONICS? Check HERE First:###
http://users.pandora.be/educypedia/electronics/databank.htm
My email address is whitelisted. *All* email sent to it
goes directly to the trash unless you add NOSPAM in the
Subject: line with other stuff. alondra101 <at> hotmail.com
Don't be ripped off by the big book dealers. Go to the URL
that will give you a choice and save you money(up to half).
http://www.everybookstore.com You'll be glad you did!
Just when you thought you had all this figured out, the gov't
changed it: http://physics.nist.gov/cuu/Units/binary.html
@@t@h@e@@a@f@f@l@u@e@n@t@@m@e@e@t@@t@h@e@@E@f@f@l@u@e@n@t@@

 

[Clifford Heath]

<http://www.packagingtoday.com/introcelluloid.htm>

Ok, so the highly flammable stuff was called Chardonnay Silk, not
rayon, but was the same basic stuff, nitrated cellulose. The safer
replacement was called art silk (artificial silk), trade name Rayon.

Why do some people think they have a responsibility to correct everyone
and quibble about their language? Was my colorful use of "immolate"
likely to cause anyone to misunderstand? I really don't get it with
these self-aggrandising fools.

 

[gene ohara]

Forgot to mention that am not too happy with the robustness of the Sanken parts.


genosmm@yahoo.com (gene ohara) wrote in message news:<9361bb67.0307140734.19142b7a@posting.google.com>...

Appreciate any suggestions for what you consider to be a better
replacement for the SK C2579.

Thanks

Gene

 

[Watson A.Name - 'Watt Sun]

In article <20030717152128.03151.00000051@mb-m01.aol.com>,
emscan81@aol.com mentioned...

Hi All,

I have a basic astable 555 timer circuit I've connected to a MOSfet transistor.
I want to run a DC power supply for a model train through the channel of the
MOSfet. This is actually to power a coil which is to serve as a weak, air
core, electromagnet. I was told that I should place a diode across the coil
and the transistor in reverse so I don't blow the transistor when I turn off
the power (Lenz's law, right?). How can I expect to do this and allow my
pulsing current to flow? How do I do this exactly? How "big" should my diode
be? I already got a few tiny ones. Thanks for any help!

You put the diode in reverse, i.e. cathode to positive, across the
coil. You should use a 1N4002 or similar for smaller coils, and if
the coil handles a lot of power, use more than one or else use a diode
that's rated for more than 1 amp. If the coil is switched at a very
high rate, then the larger diodes should be used.

Ed

--
@@F@r@o@m@@O@r@a@n@g@e@@C@o@u@n@t@y@,@@C@a@l@,@@w@h@e@r@e@@
###Got a Question about ELECTRONICS? Check HERE First:###
http://users.pandora.be/educypedia/electronics/databank.htm
My email address is whitelisted. *All* email sent to it
goes directly to the trash unless you add NOSPAM in the
Subject: line with other stuff. alondra101 <at> hotmail.com
Don't be ripped off by the big book dealers. Go to the URL
that will give you a choice and save you money(up to half).
http://www.everybookstore.com You'll be glad you did!
Just when you thought you had all this figured out, the gov't
changed it: http://physics.nist.gov/cuu/Units/binary.html
@@t@h@e@@a@f@f@l@u@e@n@t@@m@e@e@t@@t@h@e@@E@f@f@l@u@e@n@t@@

 

[Dan Fraser]

A non polarized capacitor of the same capacitance and voltage rating can
replace a polarized capacitor in almost every application with NO
modifications.

In fact the diode trick won't work because current has to flow both in
and out of a capacitor.

However, why bother as polarized caps are far cheaper than unpolarized.

--
Dan Fraser

From Costa Mesa in sunny California
949-631-7535 Cell 714-420-7535

Check out my electronic schematics site at:
http://www.schematicsforfree.com
If you are into cars check out www.roadsters.com

 

[Mark (UK)]

Hiya Dave!!

A few to choose from:

http://www.findchips.com/avail?mk4027

Personally, I've dealt with America II, and they're a good company.

If you have any trouble getting these stateside, a UK source has the ITT
ones, they're about $5 a pop, but they work perfectly in the Sega VIC
boards I've tried them on.

Yours, Mark.

Commander Dave wrote:

Looking to buy about 20-50 Dynamic RAM chips, 4027 4Kx1 16 pin DIP.

If anyone has these for sale, please email me at cmdr-dave@spamcop.net.

Thank you!
-Dave

 

[Geoffrey G. Rochat]

Looking to buy about 20-50 Dynamic RAM chips, 4027 4Kx1 16 pin DIP.

If anyone has these for sale, please email me at cmdr-dave@spamcop.net.

Take a look at www.unicornelectronics.com .

 

[Rob Judd]

DarkMatter wrote:

On Sat, 19 Jul 2003 07:01:51 GMT, Dan Fraser <dmfraser@sbcglobal.net
Gave us:

A non polarized capacitor of the same capacitance and voltage rating can
replace a polarized capacitor in almost every application with NO
modifications.

Actually, most NP versions are nearly twice the size physically as
their polarized counterpart, given the same voltage spec. That would
mean that many applications would not fit the bigger cap if the
original was tightly packed in the initial design.

In fact the diode trick won't work because current has to flow both in
and out of a capacitor.

However, why bother as polarized caps are far cheaper than unpolarized.

Two. Back to back. Quick and cheap. NP caps cost less than two,
however, in normal buying circumstances. They are harder to find in
single quantities though, which would make your statement probably
correct. They really ARE two caps back to back inside. That is what
an NP cap is.

Look in the audio section under "crossover caps". That's generally where
they're kept.

Rob

 

[DarkMatter]

On Mon, 21 Jul 2003 05:17:22 +1000, Rob Judd <judd@ob-wan.com> Gave
us:

DarkMatter wrote:

On Sat, 19 Jul 2003 07:01:51 GMT, Dan Fraser <dmfraser@sbcglobal.net
Gave us:

A non polarized capacitor of the same capacitance and voltage rating can
replace a polarized capacitor in almost every application with NO
modifications.

Actually, most NP versions are nearly twice the size physically as
their polarized counterpart, given the same voltage spec. That would
mean that many applications would not fit the bigger cap if the
original was tightly packed in the initial design.

In fact the diode trick won't work because current has to flow both in
and out of a capacitor.

However, why bother as polarized caps are far cheaper than unpolarized.

Two. Back to back. Quick and cheap. NP caps cost less than two,
however, in normal buying circumstances. They are harder to find in
single quantities though, which would make your statement probably
correct. They really ARE two caps back to back inside. That is what
an NP cap is.

Look in the audio section under "crossover caps". That's generally where
they're kept.

There ya go!

 

[Louis Bybee]

"Sean Mathias" <seanm@prosolve.com> wrote in message
news:idjmhvcmsbvon6tb9a47o1e6bu03mmusl4@4ax.com...

I have a number of power transformers I have picked up and am looking
to use one for a specific application. Most are completely unmarked.
It is generally easy enough to determine the pinnings through
continuity and resistance checks, likewise by connecting it to a
source, the voltages are easily determined. What I am struggling with
is how to determine the current it is designed or rated for, any
suggestions?

Thanks,

Sean Mathias

If you are able to determine the rated voltage, one method I use to identify
the approximate current capability is to supply the transformer with the
rated primary voltage, and load the secondary until I get a voltage drop of
approximately 5%. I then leave the transformer operating at that load level
for an extended period of time checking frequently for over heating. This
method isn't fool proof, but has worked for me in every instance so far.

Louis--
*********************************************
Remove the fish in address to respond

 

[Grumpy OM]

Sean Mathias <seanm@prosolve.com> wrote in message news:<idjmhvcmsbvon6tb9a47o1e6bu03mmusl4@4ax.com>...

I have a number of power transformers I have picked up and am looking
to use one for a specific application. Most are completely unmarked.
It is generally easy enough to determine the pinnings through
continuity and resistance checks, likewise by connecting it to a
source, the voltages are easily determined. What I am struggling with
is how to determine the current it is designed or rated for, any
suggestions?

Thanks,

Sean Mathias

Sean,

When dealing with unknown xformers use extreme caution. Apply a low
voltage with a variac and check the secondaries voltage. Years ago I
found a unit at work that appeared to be a high current step down
type. I applied line voltage and when I measured the secondary I drew
an arc and the meter went poof. Turned out I had a microwave oven unit
that I knew nothing about at the time. I still break out in a cold
sweat when I think about it.

Grumpy