audio recording on IC -help wanted

Mike Sawalski wrote:
Sorry, I should have given some more info...the dimension of the coil
"holder" are:

1 pc 2 1/4" O.D. x 6" long tubing having 1/16" thick wall
1 pc 1/8" x 2 1/2" x 2 1/2" for top of cover tube

Reviewing the article now for the current rating, but it uses a 20 amp fuse
in it. The coil (made from about 2.5 lbs of #16 magnet wire) will
(essentially) go right into the wall plug.
I hope you've got a cheap source for that wire! I just ordered
a 1/2 lb spool from MPJA for $6.95 - at that price you'll spend
around $40.00 with shipping/handling. Please let us know if
you've got a cheaper source.
Thanks again for the quick replies....

-Mike-

Mike Sawalski wrote:

Found an old electronics hobby article about an experiment that I would
like to try. It involves creating an electromagnet using some magnet
wire around a Bakelite spool. I know that they don't use Bakelite
anymore, and am wondering what the appropriate substitute material (not
plywood) might be?

Any sources online that I can purchase this at (small quantities)?

Thanks!

-Mike-
 
ehsjr@bellatlantic.net wrote:
The coil (made from about 2.5 lbs of #16 magnet wire) will
I hope you've got a cheap source for that wire! I just ordered
a 1/2 lb spool from MPJA for $6.95 - at that price you'll spend
around $40.00 with shipping/handling. Please let us know if
you've got a cheaper source.
Sounds unlikely given that $40/2.5lb is about the price of copper
recently.
 
On Sun, 06 Jul 2003 21:11:44 GMT, Mike Sawalski <msawalski@wi.rr.com>
wrote:

Found an old electronics hobby article about an experiment that I would
like to try. It involves creating an electromagnet using some magnet
wire around a Bakelite spool. I know that they don't use Bakelite
anymore, and am wondering what the appropriate substitute material (not
plywood) might be?
Anything plastic should do. IIRC Bakelite was paper embedded in a
thermosetting phenolic resin. There was also a similar material using
linen cloth and resin, widely used for electrical panels.

If you truly want the authentic look,and a custom design; there's a
phenolic glue (Aerolite?) that has that same reddish-brown look. You
could use that and paper like a fiberglass layup.
 
Don Bruder wrote:
In article <3F0890F1.2430FD27@wi.rr.com>,
Mike Sawalski <msawalski@wi.rr.com> wrote:

Found an old electronics hobby article about an experiment that I would
like to try. It involves creating an electromagnet using some magnet
wire around a Bakelite spool. I know that they don't use Bakelite
anymore, and am wondering what the appropriate substitute material (not
plywood) might be?

Any sources online that I can purchase this at (small quantities)?

Thanks!

-Mike-


Bakelite is/was just a non-conductive rubber/plastic compound. There's
nothing really "magic" about it - as long as you've got something
non-conductive that's about the same size and shape as the core the
experiment calls for, you can use pretty much anything non-conductive
for the coil form, and you'll do fine. I'd suggest a small plastic
pill-bottle as likely to be a more-than-reasonably-adequate substitute.

Plywood (or a wooden dowel...) wouldalso work just fine.
IIRC, bakelite is a phenolic resin -- also used in wood finishes.

Roll a tube from paper. Dip it in varnish.
 
"Mike Sawalski" <msawalski@wi.rr.com> wrote in message
news:3F0890F1.2430FD27@wi.rr.com...
Found an old electronics hobby article about an experiment that I would
like to try. It involves creating an electromagnet using some magnet
wire around a Bakelite spool. I know that they don't use Bakelite
anymore, and am wondering what the appropriate substitute material (not
plywood) might be?

Any sources online that I can purchase this at (small quantities)?
Go to McMaster-Carr there on line catalog I beleive they still sell it.

Bill

Thanks!

-Mike-
 
In article <slrnbghqot.2djk.bit-bucket@localhost.config.com>, bit-
bucket@config.com mentioned...
On Sun, 6 Jul 2003 17:28:00 -0400, happyhobit hath writ:
Hi Mike,

Without knowing the dimensions of the Bakelite spool.

A fiberglass tube. An old fiberglass arrow.

Wood dowel.

Thread spool.

Jay

A plastic pill bottle.

The (empty) barrel of a defunct ball-point pen.

Cardboard tubes: toilet paper, paper towel, carpet (big!).


I miss the smell of `over-heated` bakelite...
That thin atmosphere up there must be getting to you if you think you
miss that smell. To my thinking, that's not somewhere that I'd like
my equipment to go. It's time to reach for the off switch when
equipment makes that smell.


--
@@F@r@o@m@@O@r@a@n@g@e@@C@o@u@n@t@y@,@@C@a@l@,@@w@h@e@r@e@@
###Got a Question about ELECTRONICS? Check HERE First:###
http://users.pandora.be/educypedia/electronics/databank.htm
My email address is whitelisted. *All* email sent to it
goes directly to the trash unless you add NOSPAM in the
Subject: line with other stuff. alondra101 <at> hotmail.com
Don't be ripped off by the big book dealers. Go to the URL
that will give you a choice and save you money(up to half).
http://www.everybookstore.com You'll be glad you did!
Just when you thought you had all this figured out, the gov't
changed it: http://physics.nist.gov/cuu/Units/binary.html
@@t@h@e@@a@f@f@l@u@e@n@t@@m@e@e@t@@t@h@e@@E@f@f@l@u@e@n@t@@
 
On Sun, 06 Jul 2003 21:11:44 GMT, Mike Sawalski <msawalski@wi.rr.com>
wrote:

Found an old electronics hobby article about an experiment that I would
like to try. It involves creating an electromagnet using some magnet
wire around a Bakelite spool. I know that they don't use Bakelite
anymore, and am wondering what the appropriate substitute material (not
plywood) might be?

Any sources online that I can purchase this at (small quantities)?
---
What you're looking for is linen or paper-based phenolic tubing you
ought to be able to buy it from any plastics supplier or Google for
"phenolic tubing" without the quotes. Here's an interesting link:

https://secure.consumersinterest.com/pml/components.asp?groupid=9
--
John Fields
Professional circuit designer
http://austininstruments.com
 
"Richard Crowley" <rcrowley7@xprt.net> wrote in message news:<vghshl1828g6e7@corp.supernews.com>...
Any sources online that I can purchase this at (small quantities)?

Why? Hasn't been made in decades. Use something modern.

There is a very modern web page at http://www.sumibe.co.jp/english/ on
current production and uses of Bakelite.

....

A brief history, including mention of Coco Chanel and her line of
Bakelite jewelry is at
http://www.collecting20thcentury.com/1998/bakelite.htm

Deeply buried in http://www.let.uu.nl/ams/xroads/bake-2.htm is the
mention of "designer as celebrity" by a group advancing the use of
Bakelite. Several of the pages churned up by Google mention either
Andy Warhol or Art Deco.

An excellent photograph of an incomplete Bakelite executive desk pen
set is included on page http://bakelite_world_2001.tripod.com/
 
In article <3F08FD4D.E27D9324@bellatlantic.net>,
<ehsjr@bellatlantic.net> wrote:

Reviewing the article now for the current rating, but it uses a 20 amp fuse
in it. The coil (made from about 2.5 lbs of #16 magnet wire) will
(essentially) go right into the wall plug.

I hope you've got a cheap source for that wire! I just ordered
a 1/2 lb spool from MPJA for $6.95 - at that price you'll spend
around $40.00 with shipping/handling. Please let us know if
you've got a cheaper source.
Some time ago, somebody posted a recommendation: electric-motor-
rebuilding companies. They buy magnet wire in very large quantities
to rewind motors, and they might be willing to sell a batch or perhaps
some cutoffs.

--
Dave Platt <dplatt@radagast.org> AE6EO
Hosting the Jade Warrior home page: http://www.radagast.org/jade-warrior
I do _not_ wish to receive unsolicited commercial email, and I will
boycott any company which has the gall to send me such ads!
 
In article <vgjetichn7kr8b@corp.supernews.com>, dplatt@radagast.org (Dave Platt) wrote:
In article <3F08FD4D.E27D9324@bellatlantic.net>,
ehsjr@bellatlantic.net> wrote:

Reviewing the article now for the current rating, but it uses a 20 amp fuse
in it. The coil (made from about 2.5 lbs of #16 magnet wire) will
(essentially) go right into the wall plug.

I hope you've got a cheap source for that wire! I just ordered
a 1/2 lb spool from MPJA for $6.95 - at that price you'll spend
around $40.00 with shipping/handling. Please let us know if
you've got a cheaper source.

Some time ago, somebody posted a recommendation: electric-motor-
rebuilding companies. They buy magnet wire in very large quantities
to rewind motors, and they might be willing to sell a batch or perhaps
some cutoffs.
Motor companies, transformer companies, alternator shops.
 
On Mon, 7 Jul 2003 15:48:07, The Technical Manager
<techman@yahoo.co.uk> rolled up his sleeves and typed:

Is a two conductor transmission line such as the 300 ohm parallel flat
type cable used for VHF antennas being used to convey a differential
mode signal that is at a large (approximated as infinite) distance from
a groundplane capable of conveying a common mode signal as well ?
Please answer one question - if, as you claim, you are a manager why
do you get involved in the sharp end? Alternatively if you are an
engineer, do you have some aversion to reading up on these subjects?

I believe what you are asking about is similar to the "phantom"
circuits that used to be used in line communications.

--
Jim Backus OS/2 user
bona fide replies to jimb-thecirclethingy-jita-dp-demon-dp-co-dp-uk
or remove "NOT" from address
remove dashes and make the obvious substitutions for valid email
address
 
Jim Backus wrote:

On Mon, 7 Jul 2003 15:48:07, The Technical Manager
techman@yahoo.co.uk> rolled up his sleeves and typed:

Is a two conductor transmission line such as the 300 ohm parallel flat
type cable used for VHF antennas being used to convey a differential
mode signal that is at a large (approximated as infinite) distance from
a groundplane capable of conveying a common mode signal as well ?


Please answer one question - if, as you claim, you are a manager why
do you get involved in the sharp end?
Because I am the team leader and the technical expert at the same time. I
work for an organisation that allows engineers to take management positions
rather than relies on humanities types.

Alternatively if you are an
engineer, do you have some aversion to reading up on these subjects?
Information on differential mode circuits at RF frequencies is very sketchy
and thinly spread across lots of publications. Differential mode is normally
used for data communications or audio. There isn't even a standard
characteristic impedance for differential mode circuits at RF let alone any
specifically designed cables or connectors.

I believe what you are asking about is similar to the "phantom"
circuits that used to be used in line communications.
Telephone local loops operate in differential mode but are at audio
frequencies.
 
Freetradezone comes up with:
IC,SERIAL EEPROM,21X16,MOS,DIP,8PIN,CERAMIC
but they don't have any data sheets.

"Jordan Tucker" <plz@solic.it> wrote in message news:<vgkb7qurkd940@corp.supernews.com>...
I'm pretty sure that's what it is: it has the following markings: NC
7033LC-0000. Several googlings for that part number and substrings thereof
resulted in one post from 1997 looking for "NC or NCR 7033" EEPROMs, but
nothing else. If this is an NCR part, to whom did NCR sell their
semiconductor non-ASIC division? (I believe LSI Logic/Symbios got their ASIC
division.)

Other possible identifiying characteristics is the ceramic 8-pin (this is
why I believe it to be serial) package. Any help in identifying and possibly
locating the datasheets for this device is appreciated (I have a whole tube
of the suckers, might as well use them!)

Thanks,
Jordan
 
"Lewin A.R.W. Edwards" <larwe@larwe.com> wrote in message
news:608b6569.0307080543.2ffb0a54@posting.google.com...
I'm integrating an Ethernet-bearing SBC into a project, and it's not
convenient for me to mount it butted up against the outer edge of the
casing. So I need to build a small cable with an RJ45M on one end and
a single panel-mount RJ45F on the other, to bring the Ethernet up to
the connector panel.

So far all I have found is connectors that are intended for wall-plate
mounting, and they're all too big to fit our connector area. Changing
the dimensions of that surface would mean changing almost every
dimension of the housing, unfortunately.
There are some 'slimline' designs of these. AMP do a version coded LJ6C,
which is only 25*38.5*19.2mm deep. These would probably be the most readily
available solution. These 'snap in', to an aperture 26.5*22mm, which is
normally pretty easy to provide on a panel.

Ideally what I'd like is a connector that has screw holes on either
side of the socket. Does such a beast exist, and can I buy it in small
quantity in the US? Plan B is to make a small PCB and use a normal
PCB-mount part, but that would be irksome..

Thanks for any pointers on this :)
Harting, do a module rather like this, but it actually comprises a plate,
with a 'snap in' connector built in (similar to the one above), so ends up
being bulkier...

Best Wishes
 
"ApolloCAP" <lhbowen@lhbowen.cjb.net> wrote in message
news:R00Na.43627$8B.11520@twister.nyroc.rr.com...
Hello!
I am an electronics newbie, and I was wondering where I could find a
capacitor found at
http://www.mitedu.freeserve.co.uk/Circuits/Alarm/radiowavealm.htm . It
says
I need a 4 nano farad capacitor. Could someone give me the URL of say a
mouser catalog item that's 4 nano farads?
Any help would be GREATLY appreciated!!!!!!!!!!

The capacitor shown in that diagram is 4 picofarads, not 4 nanofarads.
However, two things:

1) I don't think that circuit is correctly drawn. Anyone else here actually
think this thing can work? Can someone explain it to me? In particular,
can someone explain why switching an aerial to ground, with no other power
source evident, should result in some sort of transmission?

2) The 4 picofarad value is probably not at all important. Any small
capacitance would work fine. Which is good, because I don't think I've ever
seen a 4pF capacitor... You can find 4.7pF, or 3.9pF, but 4pF is an unusual
value. Anyway, I doubt you even need the capacitor there at all.
 
Jim Backus wrote:

When I lived in Australia (240 volt 50 Hz supply) I was amazed and
horrified to see that the kettles provided in most cheaper hotels had
a bare wire element. The safety feature was that it was impossible to
plug them into the kettle lead while the lid was open. They often had
the charming habit of making fizzing and sparking noises as the water
boiled. This was just 10 years ago!
What about shower heaters in some third world countries... mains lead
going into the shower head, where 2 contacts join the water to be heated.

Or the only slightly better British flow-through heaters (must be out of
use now I hope) that sit somewhat further from the user and have 2
carbon plates with water flowing between them. And: sold das "safer" as
they cannot overheat when boiling dry.


Thomas
 
"Dr. Rev. Chuck, M.D. P.A." <cdub@_REMOVETHIS_erols.com> wrote in message news:<3F0954BD.6F0A@_REMOVETHIS_erols.com>...
Don Bruder wrote:

In article <3F0890F1.2430FD27@wi.rr.com>,
Mike Sawalski <msawalski@wi.rr.com> wrote:

Found an old electronics hobby article about an experiment that I would
like to try. It involves creating an electromagnet using some magnet
wire around a Bakelite spool. I know that they don't use Bakelite
anymore, and am wondering what the appropriate substitute material (not
plywood) might be?
Hi

Bakelite is in widespread use in the British electrical industry
today, it is what most (white) mains plugs are made from.

Regards, NT
 
On Tue, 8 Jul 2003 19:15:09, Zak <Zak@spam.invalid> rolled up his
sleeves and typed:

Jim Backus wrote:

When I lived in Australia (240 volt 50 Hz supply) I was amazed and
horrified to see that the kettles provided in most cheaper hotels had
a bare wire element. The safety feature was that it was impossible to
plug them into the kettle lead while the lid was open. They often had
the charming habit of making fizzing and sparking noises as the water
boiled. This was just 10 years ago!

What about shower heaters in some third world countries... mains lead
going into the shower head, where 2 contacts join the water to be heated.

Or the only slightly better British flow-through heaters (must be out of
use now I hope) that sit somewhat further from the user and have 2
carbon plates with water flowing between them. And: sold das "safer" as
they cannot overheat when boiling dry.
Electrical instant hot water showers are still available - The IEE
regulations appear to allow for the sort of heater you describe but I
don't know how the ones currently on the market work.

--
Jim Backus OS/2 user
bona fide replies to jimb-thecirclethingy-jita-dp-demon-dp-co-dp-uk
or remove "NOT" from address
remove dashes and make the obvious substitutions for valid email
address
 
On Mon, 7 Jul 2003 23:26:28, The Technical Manager
<techman@yahoo.co.uk> rolled up his sleeves and typed:

Jim Backus wrote:

On Mon, 7 Jul 2003 15:48:07, The Technical Manager
techman@yahoo.co.uk> rolled up his sleeves and typed:

Is a two conductor transmission line such as the 300 ohm parallel flat
type cable used for VHF antennas being used to convey a differential
mode signal that is at a large (approximated as infinite) distance from
a groundplane capable of conveying a common mode signal as well ?


Please answer one question - if, as you claim, you are a manager why
do you get involved in the sharp end?
Nice work if you can get it - I've always avoided the cost account
side of being a manager, which seems to make up a significant part of
a manager's role in the bigger companies in Britain.

--
Jim Backus OS/2 user
bona fide replies to jimb-thecirclethingy-jita-dp-demon-dp-co-dp-uk
or remove "NOT" from address
remove dashes and make the obvious substitutions for valid email
address
 
"Lewin A.R.W. Edwards" <larwe@larwe.com> wrote in message
news:608b6569.0307081038.33e5efd8@posting.google.com...
casing. So I need to build a small cable with an RJ45M on one end and
a single panel-mount RJ45F on the other, to bring the Ethernet up to
the connector panel.

So far all I have found is connectors that are intended for wall-plate
mounting, and they're all too big to fit our connector area. Changing
the dimensions of that surface would mean changing almost every
dimension of the housing, unfortunately.
There are some 'slimline' designs of these. AMP do a version coded LJ6C,
which is only 25*38.5*19.2mm deep. These would probably be the most
readily
available solution. These 'snap in', to an aperture 26.5*22mm, which is
normally pretty easy to provide on a panel.

I spent some time browsing AMP's site before posting, and I think I
might have found the part you're talking about (is it in the
NETCONNECT series?) The document I downloaded was for the "SL Series
110Connect Category 5E Jacks".
The specific part was 1375191-X (X = color code) but nobody sells this
part (Mouser, Digi-Key, Newark). I'm not sure that this part will fit,
but it's the closest I've been able to find and I wanted to get a
sample at least. Searching for LJ6C didn't get me anywhere on AMP's
site (no surprise there), or the distris.

What I was really looking for was a connector with the same outline as
a 90 degree PCB mount style connector, but with "ears" on either side,
either a metal plate or a wider body with screw holes in it.

Harting, do a module rather like this, but it actually comprises a
plate,
with a 'snap in' connector built in (similar to the one above), so ends
up
being bulkier...

I think I saw something similar in my searches. That's the module
that's intended to fit in the same space as an XLR jack, isn't it?

Thanks for the response, in any case..
My part numbers are from a UK distributor, who seems to find LJ6C, with no
problem. It sounds like the one you describe. Harting do a 'range' of
plates, including ones to go into several different shaped holes, but they
all add bulk... Been thinking on (and back about sockets I have used), and
remembered that Krone, do a socket in their RJ-K series, with 'modular
mounting', which includes as one of the mounting options, a alloy 'block',
with holes into the sides (but not into a faceplate), which might be
modifiable to suit. Unfortunately, 'snap in', seems to be the standard, and
though these can be quite small, if you are prepared to make the hole in
your faceplate, it is not as simple as the 'bolt on' solution if you are not
in a position to get holes accurately machined, or the plate is a different
thickness.

Good Luck
 

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