audio recording on IC -help wanted

Sambo <sambo@voidstar.com> wrote in
news:HvsOi.12971$Bq3.2698@newsfe18.lga:

I have a dead (Regal) coffee machine which I'd like to reuse as my
desoldering bath.
Besides the heating element and thermostat? the dead part
looks like low profile 4 pin crystal oscillator can but only 2
connections. One terminal is connected to the top and the other to a
metal platelet held by 2 flaps from the top part ( along the long
sides, forming 2 rails. The 2 terminals are separated by green what
looks like paper.

Wondering if I can safely short it out without affecting the
thermostat or the lamp in the switch, at least until I build in some
temperature control.
That would appear to be the thermal fuse. It would open if it gets too
hot, for the intended design and purpose anyways..
 
I've seen a few computer systems that actually reported
that you had not used an 80 pin IDE/UDMA/ATAPI cable.

How does the mainboard tell 40 pin from 80 pin?
Does it detect reflective noise or what?

On the other hand, I thought this was a thread about
IEEE488/GPIB/HPIB and I didn't catch how it
devolved into IDE/UDMA/ATAPI from there.

I vaguely recall that once there were minor but
not to be ignored differences between those
almost identical ""standards"".

Apparently lab instruments is the last niche for '488?

I was scratching my head about the "garden hoses"
comment but it congealed when some comments
came up about multiple piggy backs and I recalled
how ugly four or five '488's piggybacked really were!

In modern medlab or electronics labs, have
USB 2.0 or Firewire become the new standard?
 
Joerg schrieb:

What's the jelly-bean level shifter du jour, the most popular?

Need to shift three sigs 3.3V to 5V and another three 5V to 3.3V. Stuff
us analog dudes normally don't do. The TXB0104 looks ok, so does the
74LVC4245. But the specs for both are horrible, incomplete at best. Not
much in drive levels mentioned, or just for one direction.
Any simple 74HCT gate will do the level shifting from 3.3 to 5 V. I have
used 74HCT08 in such cases (noninverting). Really cheap also, plus many
sources.

For converting 5 to 3.3V, just use a 5V tolerant 3.3V logic family -
74LVC is fine for this, for three signals I would again use a single
74LVC08. Or simply add (large enough) series resistors if the 3.3V input
impedance is high and speed is not critical...

However, you can of course also use single transistors for level
shifting (common base circuit). Works fine, but with the additionally
required resistors (and assembly expense) it's not cheaper than using
the ICs mentioned above. However, you'd have more flexibility for
placement and routing.

Tilmann
 
I am looking for a replacement for AOD444, a n-channel mosfet in an
inverter
http://www.aosmd.com/web/products/product_display.jsp?displayType=mos...

www.aosmd.com/pdfs/datasheet/AOD444.pdf

AOD 444 , vds :60v, vgs:20v, id: 12A

I checked digikey.com, but only 2 similar one are available. They are
IPD640N06L G
http://www.infineon.com/dgdl/IPD640N06L+G+Rev1.2.pdf?folderId=db3a304...

and

MTD3055VL
http://www.fairchildsemi.com/ds/MT/MTD3055VL.pdf

They both look similar to AOD 444, but they are logic level.

QUUESTION 1
Will it work if i substitute a mosfet (without logic level ) with
another mosfet that has logic level?

Also, i found another similar one ,std12nf06l
http://dkc1.digikey.com/Redirect.aspx?url=http://www.st.com/stonline/...

The Continuous drain current ID at 25 degree C is the same as aod444.
BUT it is smaller than AOD444 at 100 C.

QUUESTION 2
When replacing mosfet, do we have to consider the ID at TC=100
degree?
 
On Sun, 21 Dec 2008 21:21:10 -0800, Dave Platt wrote:
In article <2ImdnXxuXp6okNLUnZ2dnUVZ_ojinZ2d@earthlink.com>, Michael A.
Terrell <mike.terrell@earthlink.net> wrote:

So do I. They rarely last more than a year before they leak, and some
brands even less. Before they changed from some anonymous Chinese
manufacturer to GPT, the Office Depot brand sold here lasted 3-4
months.

Are you storing them in an oven? I have used Alkaline cells that
were over six years old.

Are those times for cells that have been stored in unused condition, or
for cells that are in a device which is in occasional use?

I believe that the former (shelf life when fully charged) is often a good
deal better than the latter (lifetime once partially discharged). I've
read that even a modest partial discharge of an alkaline cell starts an
electrochemical reaction that can lead to corrosion of the case after a
year or so.
I have a Fujicam that takes AAs - I used to use NiMHs, but they turned
out to be crap, so I got a couple of alkalines, which have lasted now for
at least a year in intermittent duty - the camera is a real current hog,
even when it's off, so I just store the cam with the battery door open.
This means I have to set its clock every time I use it, but I consider
that a small price to pay for the kind of reliability I'm getting.

YMMV, of course.

Cheers!
Rich
 
Jonathan Kirwan wrote:
On Sat, 14 Jun 2008 08:36:57 -0700, Joerg
notthisjoergsch@removethispacbell.net> wrote:

Jonathan Kirwan wrote:
On Fri, 13 Jun 2008 16:23:42 -0700, Joerg
notthisjoergsch@removethispacbell.net> wrote:

Jonathan Kirwan wrote:
On Fri, 13 Jun 2008 15:42:27 -0700, Joerg
notthisjoergsch@removethispacbell.net> wrote:

Hello All,

After some problems a client saw I was treated to my own dose of what is
likely flash loss: The uC in our mailbox door has become erratic. I
installed it about three months ago and half of the day it receives a
good pelting from the sun. First it began not recognizing some keys,
then it started doing weird stuff like lock cycling. Things it wasn't
meant to ever do. Batteries, contacts and such look ok, reset didn't
help, so that's not it.

TI has an app note about the topic:
http://focus.ti.com/lit/an/slaa392/slaa392.pdf

Figure 1 looks scary above the 80C range. Later they presented another
test with a different bake cycle which makes things look better but who
knows.

What is you experience with respect to flash errors on uC that are
exposed to elevated temperatures as most outdoors applications are?
I only have some small experience here with the MSP430. It seems to
operate at 140C at 3V and 3.3V for the several-hour long tests I've
done. But some bad experiences in storing data into the flash at that
temp and even at 3.3V and higher. But I didn't need the darn thing to
survive all that long, either.
Wow, problems within hours at 140C? Not cool :-(
No. No problems, at all. Just that I didn't run them for more than
about 5 hours at a time. Same one ran for weeks, though, at periodic
elevated temperatures. I was just collecting data from a rotating hot
surface and wanted to just stick the whole contraption there while it
stored a few bits of data into RAM. The battery was the problem.
However, you said "But some bad experiences in storing data into the
flash at that temp and even at 3.3V and higher."

Yes, I did. I gather you want to do that.

I haven't read, for understanding, the data sheet you mentioned. I
just downloaded it, though, and thanks for pointing it up. I think it
wasn't around when I looked a few years back and I'm glad that you
pointed it up for me.

Your obvious solution is to move north about a thousand miles. ;)
My wife would absolutely not do that.
Oregon is absolutely beautiful! I've got pileated woodpeckers, 4
kinds of squirrels including a flying squirrel (nocturnal), peafowl,
chickens, guinea hens, turkeys and so on -- tall 60-80 year old firs,
two kinds of ferns, rhododendrons that bloom in succession around the
place, and it looks like a lush rain-forest national forest when you
walk the paths on the property. Lots of acres, 5000 sq ft home, 1/4
mile driveway to the house, view of the mountains, 5 minutes to a
hospital and 20 minutes to the PDX international airport, a 17 mile
well-maintained walking and horse trail that goes from 1/2 mile away
from my home to the Willamette River in Portland, and it cost me $330k
in 2002. Prices are still low, too. Next door has been on the block
for 2 years, is a million dollar home (tax appraisal price) with about
4500 sq ft and 5 acres, and is being offered at $599k now. I'm told
they'd accept under $500k. Neighbors are wonderful, too.
That sure sounds mouth-watering. But my wife likes places where there is
no winter (and now ours get colder every year ...) and I'd have a wee
problem with the property tax rates up there. 2% or more is IMHO
confiscatory. Oh, and I like proposition 13 (prop tax increase cap) in
California because I do not trust politicians enough to toss them the
keys to my bank account.

My place is appraised at $850k (down there, I know that is just a
shack but up here it's 5000 sq ft of quality, showy home and lots of
acres of prime hilltop land) and my property taxes are $4400/year.
Which is kind of high, I admit. It's the income taxes you'll probably
hate. It's a graduated rate, but I think the top rate (which applies
to most engineers, without even asking) is 9%. However, no sales tax.
It a similar income tax structure here in CA with the dems wanting more
and more and more. Luckily we now have a 2/3 majority req for tax raise,
thanks to the aforementioned Prop 13. We also have a sales tax on top of
that and it still ain't enough :-(

However, you may just be lucky that you bought your house at low cost.
I've heard people retiring to Oregon and after buying a $400k house they
got socked with an $8k (!) tax bill. Oh no, not me. One really has to
watch it these days.


3' of fantastic soils, 45" of rain a year nice and evenly distributed
all year 'round in a constant drizzle, and everything grows where you
throw the seed, no digging needed. What could be better? ;)
Ah, you shouldn't have written "drizzle", my wife would hate that kind
of weather.

I did that on purpose. I didn't want to make it seem too inviting.
Actually, I've come to appreciate the constant press of low clouds
overhead and the slippery feel of moist moss as you carefully walk
across your one year old, rotting wooden deck.
In winter it's the same here. We are on a hill and often "in" the
clouds. Our Rottweiler used to bark them away upon approach but he gave
up on that. We found PreservaWood deck stain to hold up pretty well.

--
Regards, Joerg

http://www.analogconsultants.com/

"gmail" domain blocked because of excessive spam.
Use another domain or send PM.
 
<pfjw@aol.com> wrote in message
news:1183203459.770133.264070@n60g2000hse.googlegroups.com...
OK.... you and Allison are more than welcome to give your money to the
power companies and the fossil-fuel companies and so forth. Far be it
from me to confuse your closely-held beliefs with anything outside
your (very) limited experience. Writing for myself and my family, I
would much prefer having the extra cash to spend on more enjoyable
pursuits.
So you can't read, no surprise there I guess.
If you could you would have read at least three times that I am quite happy
with standard long fluro tubes.
They last longer, give off a better spread of light, and cost even less to
run per lumen.

As to the source of lamps, if you buy shit at shit prices, you will
get shit, and generally, shit is a waste of time and frustrating.
Yes, pity they ALL seem to be shit.
If the situation is different in your country, then good luck to you.

Luddites abound even after the advent of the power loom, it seems.
:) :)
I have to laugh since I am the total opposite of a luddite. I readily
embrace new technology that is ACTUALLY better than what already exists.
That is certainly not the case when comparing CFL's to the very old
technology long fluoro tube.
Hopefully improvements on CFL technology may change the situation for the
better in future. In the meantime I will let you fund the current consumer
trials, they have already used too much of my money.

MrT.
 
"Michael A. Terrell" <mike.terrell@earthlink.net> wrote in
news:46C3E61B.EB13FB53@earthlink.net:

Lostgallifreyan wrote:

Does anyone have the service manual for the HP/Agilent 'ColorPro'
7440A plotter? Also, the programming manual? I'll pay for either
those, or good scans of them. eBay sellers aren't forcoming right now
on that model.

The most important bit of info I want is the details of power supply
to the four pins on the connector. The label on the base suggests
20VAC at 2A, but that seems unlikely in extreme! There are no
rectifying and smoothing components inside, and each of the four pins
seems to have its own track. Two of them have a capacitance across
them, too big to safely put directly across 20VAC. The conflict
between label and reality is too great to trust to anything but
original info. I don't want to risk reverse engineering unless no
info can be had at all.


First of all, do you need 120 or 240 VAC input?

I find several different supplies listed online:

http://repc.stores.yahoo.net/hppowsupus.html says 20V 2A, but doesn't
say AC or DC. It also lists some HP printers that used the same
supply, and I MIGHT have a 120 VAC input supply in my pile of dead
printers. I also have some old HP plotters in storage that might use
the same supply.


http://forums.driverguide.com/showthread.php?t=3266 says:
Power connector:

|o -> gnd
|o -> ac1
|o -> vcc
|o -> ac2


vcc and gnd -> 10Vdc @400mA

ac1 and ac2 -> 20Vac @1A
Excellent find, that second info, it sort of confirms what I suspected, two
power busses. Hard to see why 4 pins otherwise. Also, that capacitance I
detected would likely be extra smoothing for the DC buss.

I'm after a 240V input PSU but I suspect cracking open the case might show
a dual-primary transformer.
 
Archimedes' Lever wrote:
On Wed, 4 Feb 2009 16:04:49 -0600, "Ben Miller" <Ben@somewhere> wrote:

however very few were ever used for
industrial power measurements.


Bwuahahahahaha! I just love made up statistics.

Your true colors are showing.

I know you are smart, but this bolstering of your OPINION bullshit is
just that and nothing more.
No bolstering of anything and no statistics. This is based on personal
observation.. I have seen electricians of all ages using many types of
meters, from wiggy's to amprobes to Radio Shack digitals to high end Flukes.
I have NEVER seen any of them carrying around a VTVM and an extension cord
to power it! It is completely wrong for industrial measurements, not to
mention unsafe. Explain, for example, how you would measure line-line on a
480 volt three-phase system, with a VTVM that has a grounded probe (yeah, I
know, a three-prong adapter and a piece of cardboard to isolate the meter
enclosure.)

I won't say the same thing about FET input meters, as there might be some
used. I just have not seen any. Since they are battery powered, they at
least have isolated leads.

We have electricians on this group. Let's see what they say.

Ben Miller

--
Benjamin D Miller, PE
www.bmillerengineering.com
 
On Sun, 15 Jun 2008 03:02:51 -0700 (PDT), Didi <dp@tgi-sci.com> wrote:

Jonathan Kirwan wrote:
....
Okay. I'm having fun. I hope you don't mind if I post a few links to
pictures.


It does looks terrific and with all the woodpeckers squirrles and
whatnot
it sounds like a paradise for the camera-hunter I have become lately.
But what about winter? How long/harsh is it typically?
The climate here is quite moderate, generally. Winters can be like
this in the higher elevations (I'm at about 900' above sea level), but
this is rarer at the lower elevations in western Oregon:

http://www.infinitefactors.org/misc/images/Snow-Bent%20Trees.jpg

That above picture last happened near my property in winter of 2003.
But I've not seen the like since then.

We used to get a silver thaw in the lower elevations near Portland
almost every other year or every year. I haven't seen one since 1981,
though. And Mt. Hood has lost close to 50% of its glacier mass
balance (gleaned from personal discussions with two climate
researchers -- one who studies mass balance of the Washington state
glaciers and the other who personally treks through Mt. Hood every
year gathering surface ice/snow data) in the last 30-50 years. (If I
recall, there are 11 significant glaciers on Mt. Hood.) I have lived
here since 1955 and my own experience concurs with this trend. So the
winters in the lower elevations of the Willamette valley, in my
opinion, have become less severe in terms of ice/snow. However, I
think, precipitation seems to have remained similar overall. Just the
distribution seems to be perhaps a little more rain in the winters and
less in the summers.

In short, you'd find it a paradise for photography pretty much all
year 'round.

(Not last winter,
I guess we are all still expecting it to quite go away in mid
June... :) ).
Yes, it's been weird here, this year. There seems to have been a
significant change in the wind patterns over the north polar area -- a
shift in the cyclonal center of mass. Winds and water currents drove
sea ice along the edge of the Russian Arctic (Novaya Zemlya) and a
sort of polynya emerged a bit early off the Canadian arctic coast
between the archipelago, the Alaska border and Baffin Bay. This year
seems to be unusual to me in these respects and perhaps may have
played a part in the somewhat unusual (record breaking, here) weather
patterns we've had in the month of May.

By the way, that polynya I mentioned and other smaller polynyas
suggest furthering of the thin and fairly weak annual ice of late.
This is consistent with the fact that the relative fraction of
multi-year ice in the central Arctic has plummeted, roughly since the
mid-1990s. However, it also seems that this year's first year ice
(brine pocketed) is in an unusual location that may help it survive
better than usually expected -- much of it is farther north than usual
so it might be less vulnerable to melt allowing time for the brine to
expel and the ice to firm up somewhat. Still, while having first year
ice further north means that ice may have a better chance to continue
a while longer that shouldn't be read as good news -- it means that
first year ice is forming closer to the pole which is generally not
good big picture news and the overall direction of decline there
continues.

As more of the polar ocean becomes exposed to solar insolation, which
has quite a different albedo, I expect continued significant and
interesting changes in the energy transfer mechanisms for some years.

Jon
 
On 20 Jul 2007, daestrom <daestrom@NO_SPAM_HEREtwcny.rr.com> wrote:

"Evgenij Barsukov" <evgenij_b_no_spam@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:f7ol5r$pkr$1@home.itg.ti.com...
Long Ranger wrote:
"Alex Coleman" <no@no-email.com> wrote in message
news:Xns997299E5176A471F3M4@127.0.0.1...
I have a cordless phone with rechargeable NiMH cells. The
instructions point out I must wipe clean the ends of the cells
and also the contacts.

Is it really likely that "normal" dirt (in other words invisible
dirt ) may affect performance?

ISTR that an NiMH and a NiCd have an internal reistense of about
0.24 ohm. How much resistence would someone's finger grease
have?

Actually, resistance of 10um fat layer to a voltage of 1.5V can be
1MOhm. The only reason
why normally you don't see such resistances is that contact is
pressurized so you "squeeze out" the fat from the contact area.
However, if contact is badly designed, pressure is low or contact
area is too small, you can easily have something that appears like
open circuit even with barely noticeable impurities.

Note that battery contacts are operating at low voltage, so other
mechanism how
contact can be estabished at 110 or 220V - by electrostatic
break-through across the thin insulating film, will not take place
at 1.5V.


Yep. We had an application where the engineers used nice, robust
switches designed for 120/240 VAC. But the switch is only operated
in an emergency or bi-annual testing. To test the system, normal
power was removed and low-voltage (2 D-cell batteries) were hooked
up along with a chart recorder. When we turned the switch, the
recorder didn't record contact closure because of oxide on the
contacts.

After cycling a few times, the wiping action of the switch cleaned
the contacts enough for the 3VDC to pass through. When we spoke
with the engineers about how unreliable this switch seemed to be,
they pointed out that at 120 VAC the contacts would have worked the
first time.

daestrom
Are there any other terms for this effect than "elctrostatic
breakthrough" used by one of the posters in this thread?

I can't find much info on this.
 
On Sun, 15 Jun 2008 09:09:13 -0700, Joerg
<notthisjoergsch@removethispacbell.net> wrote:

Jonathan Kirwan wrote:
On Sat, 14 Jun 2008 08:36:57 -0700, Joerg
notthisjoergsch@removethispacbell.net> wrote:

Jonathan Kirwan wrote:
On Fri, 13 Jun 2008 16:23:42 -0700, Joerg
notthisjoergsch@removethispacbell.net> wrote:

Jonathan Kirwan wrote:
On Fri, 13 Jun 2008 15:42:27 -0700, Joerg
notthisjoergsch@removethispacbell.net> wrote:

Hello All,

After some problems a client saw I was treated to my own dose of what is
likely flash loss: The uC in our mailbox door has become erratic. I
installed it about three months ago and half of the day it receives a
good pelting from the sun. First it began not recognizing some keys,
then it started doing weird stuff like lock cycling. Things it wasn't
meant to ever do. Batteries, contacts and such look ok, reset didn't
help, so that's not it.

TI has an app note about the topic:
http://focus.ti.com/lit/an/slaa392/slaa392.pdf

Figure 1 looks scary above the 80C range. Later they presented another
test with a different bake cycle which makes things look better but who
knows.

What is you experience with respect to flash errors on uC that are
exposed to elevated temperatures as most outdoors applications are?
I only have some small experience here with the MSP430. It seems to
operate at 140C at 3V and 3.3V for the several-hour long tests I've
done. But some bad experiences in storing data into the flash at that
temp and even at 3.3V and higher. But I didn't need the darn thing to
survive all that long, either.
Wow, problems within hours at 140C? Not cool :-(
No. No problems, at all. Just that I didn't run them for more than
about 5 hours at a time. Same one ran for weeks, though, at periodic
elevated temperatures. I was just collecting data from a rotating hot
surface and wanted to just stick the whole contraption there while it
stored a few bits of data into RAM. The battery was the problem.
However, you said "But some bad experiences in storing data into the
flash at that temp and even at 3.3V and higher."

Yes, I did. I gather you want to do that.

I haven't read, for understanding, the data sheet you mentioned. I
just downloaded it, though, and thanks for pointing it up. I think it
wasn't around when I looked a few years back and I'm glad that you
pointed it up for me.

Your obvious solution is to move north about a thousand miles. ;)
My wife would absolutely not do that.
Oregon is absolutely beautiful! I've got pileated woodpeckers, 4
kinds of squirrels including a flying squirrel (nocturnal), peafowl,
chickens, guinea hens, turkeys and so on -- tall 60-80 year old firs,
two kinds of ferns, rhododendrons that bloom in succession around the
place, and it looks like a lush rain-forest national forest when you
walk the paths on the property. Lots of acres, 5000 sq ft home, 1/4
mile driveway to the house, view of the mountains, 5 minutes to a
hospital and 20 minutes to the PDX international airport, a 17 mile
well-maintained walking and horse trail that goes from 1/2 mile away
from my home to the Willamette River in Portland, and it cost me $330k
in 2002. Prices are still low, too. Next door has been on the block
for 2 years, is a million dollar home (tax appraisal price) with about
4500 sq ft and 5 acres, and is being offered at $599k now. I'm told
they'd accept under $500k. Neighbors are wonderful, too.
That sure sounds mouth-watering. But my wife likes places where there is
no winter (and now ours get colder every year ...) and I'd have a wee
problem with the property tax rates up there. 2% or more is IMHO
confiscatory. Oh, and I like proposition 13 (prop tax increase cap) in
California because I do not trust politicians enough to toss them the
keys to my bank account.

My place is appraised at $850k (down there, I know that is just a
shack but up here it's 5000 sq ft of quality, showy home and lots of
acres of prime hilltop land) and my property taxes are $4400/year.
Which is kind of high, I admit. It's the income taxes you'll probably
hate. It's a graduated rate, but I think the top rate (which applies
to most engineers, without even asking) is 9%. However, no sales tax.


It a similar income tax structure here in CA with the dems wanting more
and more and more. Luckily we now have a 2/3 majority req for tax raise,
thanks to the aforementioned Prop 13. We also have a sales tax on top of
that and it still ain't enough :-(

However, you may just be lucky that you bought your house at low cost.
I've heard people retiring to Oregon and after buying a $400k house they
got socked with an $8k (!) tax bill. Oh no, not me. One really has to
watch it these days.
I am glad to hear that some Californians believe that kind of figure!
It might act to slightly stem the otherwise larger flood coming into
the state. I've never seen it and especially never for something
costing $400k, though. And I think I've lived in the most highly
taxed areas of the state so I'd like to know where exactly that
occurs, because it would be an interesting exercise to go check.

3' of fantastic soils, 45" of rain a year nice and evenly distributed
all year 'round in a constant drizzle, and everything grows where you
throw the seed, no digging needed. What could be better? ;)
Ah, you shouldn't have written "drizzle", my wife would hate that kind
of weather.

I did that on purpose. I didn't want to make it seem too inviting.
Actually, I've come to appreciate the constant press of low clouds
overhead and the slippery feel of moist moss as you carefully walk
across your one year old, rotting wooden deck.

In winter it's the same here. We are on a hill and often "in" the
clouds. Our Rottweiler used to bark them away upon approach but he gave
up on that. We found PreservaWood deck stain to hold up pretty well.
I'm finding myself tearing up the decking (the home is 5000 sq ft, and
the decking is about another 4000 sq ft around it) in sections,
treating the wood, replacing pieces that need replacing, and putting
things back... each and every year, just to keep apace the damage.

Designing any structure here means paying CLOSE attention to water
flows. For example, you dare not install a window into the side of
the house in such a way that you leave a flat "lip" on the topside.
Water will collect on even a quarter-inch protrusion and will quite
simply rot out any wooden siding nearby, including cedar. Slopes are
required everywhere -- no right angles anywhere, not even vertical
ones, when working with wooden structures. Concrete and asphalt is
quickly covered in moss and requires pressure washing on a regular
basis (my quarter mile driveway comes to mind and is requiring yet
another long workout from me, this year.) Life grows on rocks, glass,
and on top of life growing on top of life growing on top of life. I
have ferns growing on my trees, and moss growing on those same trees
AND the ferns growing on them!

Moss grows on your car bumpers and rubber insulation, as well. 20
mule team boraxo, powdered zinc, and powdered iron become your friend,
though. :)

Jon
 
I'm trying to find the specs for a diode out of an LCD TV. The TV
model # is LC-15SH7U, made by Sharp. The diode designation is D910.
The best I can tell is it's a clamp for the 33V supply, but I'm not
sure, I can't find the service manual anywhere. The markings on the
diode are as follows:
ZC (perpindicular to diode axis_
43
7*4 (the asterisk is just a dot)
both the 43 and 7*4 are underlined, the 7*4 has a second underline.

The body measures .09in wide, .12in long.

Unfortunately, it's dead shorted so I can't find out what the voltage
was. It's labeled on the board as a zener.

Thanks for any help,
Steve
 
At home I use an "intelligent battery charger" which charges cells
two at a time and both must be present for the charger to work.

--------------------

THE PROBLEM .....
Sometimes I want to charge just one cell on its own.

Maybe that one cell is an AA or AAA from a single-cell MP3 player.
Or maybe I have to recharge cells which have very different
capacities or charge levels.

--------------------

To charge only one cell, can I put a resistor in the place of the
second cell as a sort of dummy cell? If so then what values might I
use?

I figure the Negative Delta V sensor would still trip correctly with
one cell as it's unlikely that two cells would reach their voltage
drop simultaneously.

Tech details are below. Thank you for any info.

Alex



--------------------- TECHNICAL DETAILS -------------------
INFO ABOUT CHARGER ...

The charger is a Vanson V-1000 charger which uses Negative Delta V.

The spec says AA cells are charged at 350mA and AA cells at 750mA.
I read 1.45 volts across one 900mAh AAA whilst charging 2 of them.
I read 1.35 volts across one 2000mAh AA whilst charging 2 of them.

Manufacturers info: http://www.vanson.com.hk/details/p3001.html
Wholesaler's info: http://preview.tinyurl.com/22jdld


INFO ABOUT CELLS ....

Use mainly NiMH with some NiCd
AAA cell capacity ranges from 300mAh to 900mAh.
AA cell capacity ranges from 1000mAh to 2800mAh.
-------------------- END OF TECH DETAILS -------------------
 
"MR COFFEE" <sterling_sound@bellsouth.net> wrote in message
news:1185139493.218856.212210@q75g2000hsh.googlegroups.com...
John Popelish wrote:
My biggest worry would be the breakdown voltage of the
magnet wire, especially after it has been dragged through
the hole in the toroid many times. What is the peak voltage
that will appear between any pair of the three wires?

about 170 volts

You may need better insulated wire, or an insulated core and
three separated windings to achieve reliable resistance to
breakdown.

I guess I assumed pulse transformers needed to be wound that way
(trifilar).
Separate windings are actually easier to wind from my experience.

What inductance do you need?

Actually, I haven't got a clue. I hoped someone more familiar with
triggering
SCRs would fill me in on that. I've done searches but all I've found
is on
commercial sites that want to sell pulse transformers.

Is the core black ceramic or painted?

Actually it is painted blue on one side and the other side and
circumference is
painted very light green. The core is from a Pulse Engineering
transformer but
I couldn't find any information on it anywhere on the web.

It might be a
powdered iron core, that includes distributed gaps, that
make it useful for designs that include DC in the windings
or emphasize energy storage in the inductor, rather than
simple transformer action of pure AC.

I'm guessing it is ferrite from what I assume was it's intended use. I
have two
cores so I can bust one open if that would give helpful information. I
would
think the low inductance I measured would mean it is a low mu core
intended
for high frequency use, but I stand to be corrected and educated on
that
assumption.

Thanks for reply.

These transformers are usually called "Trigger Transformers". Mouser sells the
Vishay-Dale line, but looking at their stock, they only have one that looks like
it would meet your needs
(http://www.mouser.com/search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=PT020BJ106virtualkey61300000virtualkey70-PT20-106).
Newark looks the same, and Digikey doesn't stock any. Pitiful.

--
Dave M
MasonDG44 at comcast dot net (Just substitute the appropriate characters in the
address)

"In theory, there isn't any difference between theory and practice. In
practice, there is." - Yogi Berra
 
On Sat, 24 Jan 2009 23:11:58 -0800 (PST), "David L. Jones"
<altzone@gmail.com> wrote:

On Jan 25, 3:58 pm, Archimedes' Lever <OneBigLe...@InfiniteSeries.Org
wrote:
On Sun, 25 Jan 2009 00:24:30 -0500, Spehro Pefhany



speffS...@interlogDOTyou.knowwhat> wrote:
On Sat, 24 Jan 2009 16:18:08 -0800, the renowned Archimedes' Lever
OneBigLe...@InfiniteSeries.Org> wrote:

On Sat, 24 Jan 2009 12:50:17 -0600, krw <k...@att.bizzzzzzzzzzz> wrote:

The term “analog” is used because (without an amplifier) they are
inherently low impedance in the context of the measurements Arloe is
making. (With a good 50 microamp movement you might still see some
phantom voltage. AC ranges are likely way under 20k ohms/volt.)

They can still be thousands of ohms per volt.

Most analog meters are pretty high impedance as well. On the order of
nearly 10M Ohms per volt.

My first Heathkit meter was.

http://www.heathkit-museum.com/test/hvmv-7a.shtml

No FET front end on that!

Bwuahahahahah!

So it's a vacuum tube front end instead - same thing, same result.
A fixed 11Mohm input, not 10M/volt as you foolishly claimed.

Dave.

!0 M Ohms will not load the circuit under discussion enough to clamp
local noise either.
 
Footwear www.king-trade.cn
discount Paul Smith shoes
discount Jordan shoes
discount Bape shoes
discount Chanel shoes www.king-trade.cn
discount D&G shoes
discount Dior shoes
discount ED hardy shoes www.king-trade.cn
discount Evisu shoes
discount Fendi shoes www.king-trade.cn
discount Gucci shoes
discount Hogan shoes
discount Lv shoes www.king-trade.cn
discount Prada shoes
discount Timberland shoes
discount Tous shoes
discount Ugg shoes
discount Ice bream shoes
discount Sebago shoes www.king-trade.cn
discount Lacoste shoes
discount Air force one shoes
discount TODS shoes www.king-trade.cn
discount AF shoes
Our website: http://www.king-trade.cn
 
"Eeyore" <rabbitsfriendsandrelations@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:46885F3E.72BCE4C8@hotmail.com...
I suppose one approach is to believe nothing.
Safest approach anyway, until you have sufficient evidence to convince you
one way or the other.

MrT
 
I have the following for sale:

----
194 x Maxim MAX3181EEUK (+3V to +5.5V, 1.5Mbps RS-232 Receivers in
SOT23-5)
Datasheet: http://datasheets.maxim-ic.com/en/ds/MAX3180-MAX3183.pdf

Asking $30 including shipping within US/Canada. Offers welcome.
----
2500+ x Infineon BCR10PN (NPN/PNP Silicon Digital Transistor Array in
SOT363)
Datasheet: http://www.ortodoxism.ro/datasheets/infineon/1-bcr10pn.pdf

Asking $30 including shipping within US/Canada. Offers welcome
----

All components are in tape & reel packaging.

Kris

--
Kris Wilk
ReefNet Inc.
www.reefnet.ca

1-888-819-REEF (US/Canada)
905-608-9373 (International)
 
On Wed, 18 Jun 2008 03:52:28 -0700 (PDT), the renowned Leon
<leon355@btinternet.com> wrote:

On 18 Jun, 02:19, a7yvm109gf...@netzero.com wrote:
On Jun 17, 7:02 pm, Joerg <notthisjoerg...@removethispacbell.net
wrote:





a7yvm109gf...@netzero.com wrote:
Anybody have a source for 2 ohm 0201 resistors? It can be any
technology, thick film, thin film I don't care.
It can even be some sort of 4 up array of isolated resistors in a
somewhat bigger package. Concave or convex terminals, I don't care.
Any leads?
TIA!

KOA Speer RK73B1HTTB2R2J, Mouser has them. But only comes in 2.2ohms.

--
Regards, Joerg

http://www.analogconsultants.com/

"gmail" domain blocked because of excessive spam.
Use another domain or send PM.

The problem is that it's 10% over. Thanks for the effort. I'm thinking
0402 I guess. I'll have to make it fit.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Or, use two 1R parts in series.

Leon
Or stack a 2R2 and 22R 0201 vertically (in parallel) and you'll get
exactly 2.0 nominally on the same footprint.


Best regards,
Spehro Pefhany
--
"it's the network..." "The Journey is the reward"
speff@interlog.com Info for manufacturers: http://www.trexon.com
Embedded software/hardware/analog Info for designers: http://www.speff.com
 

Welcome to EDABoard.com

Sponsor

Back
Top