audio recording on IC -help wanted

[petrus bitbyter]

"gearhead" <nospam@billburg.com> schreef in bericht
news:b7436a31-6637-45cf-a2f8-b549a7a91935@c65g2000hsa.googlegroups.com...
On Apr 9, 4:09 pm, gearhead <nos...@billburg.com> wrote:

Hi all, I'd like to help out some friends on an antique motorcycle
forum that have a 6 volt regulator project. One of them built a
regulator on perfboard and posted the schematic. It has a couple
of
things I'd tweak, but it works.
The main challenge: his regulator design doesn't incorporate
current
limiting. Even the original relay-style mechanical regulators
incorporated current limiting, because the generators required it.

(snip)



I remember those old things and the electromecanical circuits that
controlled them, though I never got into their inner workings. So I do
not
know about current control and how it was done.

English is not my native tongue.

Consider a ZDX1009. It is SMD but large enough to be mounted on perf
board.
The datasheet shows the internal schematic which is very simple so you
can
also build it using discretes. You have to use matched transistors as
others
stated already.

petrus bitbyter

You mean the ZDS1009, petrus.
Check out that circuit in the datasheet -- if it doesn't leak, it
won't turn on.
The circuit below shouldn't have any problem starting up.
Below Ilimit, the collector output will not source any current. Just
as load current passes Ilimit the output collector should start
sourcing a small current. I can use this collector current in a
feedback loop with the voltage regulator and make the load current
settle at Ilimit.

V+----+-----Rs-------+-----+---load
| | |
Re | |
| | |
| | |
\ PN2907 / |
| x2 |< |
|---+----| |
/| | |\ |
/ | \ |
| | | |
+------' | /
| | |
| ,-------+--|
| | | |
\ | / \
\| | |/ \
|---+----| '---out
/| |\
PN2222x2
| |
'------+-------'
|
current sink
I = 2 Ilimit Rs / Re
|
|
gnd

For example, Isink = 200 uA, Re = 1k, Rs = .01, Ilimit = 10 A
The current mirrors reach an equilibrium at Ilimit, with 100 uA on
each side.
Below Ilimit, the right side of the current mirror pulls up and the
left side pulls down. The output transistor stays turned off.
Above Ilimit, the left side pulls up and the ride side pulls down,
drawing some current from the base of the output transistor.

Correction: instead of a mirror it needs separate current sinks on

the ground in order to work.

V+----+-----Rs-------+-----+---load
| | |
Re | |
| | |
| | |
\ PN2907 / |
| x2 |< |
|---+----| |
/| | |\ |
/ | \ |
| | | |
+------' | /
| | |
| +--|
| | |
| | \
| | \
Isink = 100uA = Isink '---out
| |
'------+-------'
|
gnd

And another transistor on the output for more gain, if necessary.

Yes, I meant the ZDS1009.

I gave a quick glance and I doubt this circuit will work. The way the
outputtransistor is connected will ruin whatever the others might do. For
instance, most of the current through the right current source will come
through the BE-junction of that transistor. So the balancing for the PN2907
will be gone. Besides, you will have to match both current sources which
brings you directly to the original schematic. Sure, it will not start
without leakage. As a matter of fact, that leakage is specified in the
datasheet. All bipolar transistors I met so far, had some leakage. It's
inherent to to physics of the transistor. Once amplified, it will become
serious current which brings the circuit to live. I ever build a current
sensor like that and it wordked though not very accurate. I used no matched
or twins transistors and did not bother to make them thermal connected. At
the time, it was good enough for my application.

petrus bitbyter

 

[NewsGroups]

"gearhead" <nospam@billburg.com> wrote in message
news:ffa75aed-3fad-437c-8ad6-0d7d9f907b81@m44g2000hsc.googlegroups.com...
On Apr 8, 2:13 pm, Wimpie <wimabc...@tetech.nl> wrote:

On 8 abr, 22:34, gearhead <nos...@billburg.com> wrote:





On Apr 8, 10:03 am, Tim Wescott <t...@seemywebsite.com> wrote:

gearhead wrote:
Hi all, I'd like to help out some friends on an antique motorcycle
forum that have a 6 volt regulator project. One of them built a
regulator on perfboard and posted the schematic. It has a couple of
things I'd tweak, but it works.
The main challenge: his regulator design doesn't incorporate current
limiting. Even the original relay-style mechanical regulators
incorporated current limiting, because the generators required it.
Somebody on the forum suggested the zxct1009, but it only comes in
surface mount which means we can't rejigger the existing perfboard
project to include the new chip. It would mean having a custom-
printed circuit board, and soldering techniques perhaps a little too
demanding for somebody building his first circuit -- which probably
describes a lot of the guys on the forum.
pdf of the circuit:
http://www.hydra-glide.com/phpBB2/download.php?id=1173
I've tried to find a through-hole component that fits the bill, but
can't seem to come up with anything just right. I saw the micrel
MIC5021, but it supposedly operates on 12 volts and up.
http://www.micrel.com/_PDF/mic5021.pdf
Now, perhaps they make that statement on the datasheet because the
chip actually also has a voltage doubler and the high side drive
needs
that kind of voltage to turn on a mosfet, and it's possible the chip
itself will actually run on a much lower voltage. But the datasheet
doesn't say anything to this effect. Has anybody used the MIC5021
and
know if it might actually turn on at say 5 volts or perhaps know of
any other through hole chips for current sensing?

This is just a suggestion, but consider the circuit below. If the
transistors are well matched Vchg should come pretty close to Vgen/10
+
47 * 0.02 * Ibatt -- and you can jigger your component values around
to
change the numbers. You'll _probably_ be able to make this work OK
with
any two unmatched (but like part-number) PNP transistors, like
2N3904's,
but you'd do better to get a matched pair (DigiKey has some Zetex
parts
that would do, if there are any through-hole ones).

Try this out with SPICE before you run with it: I just threw it down
off
the top of my head, it's not exactly like anything I've done before
nor
is it tested at all.

Vgen ___ Vbatt
o-----o---|___|---o-----o
| | -----
| 0.02 | Ibatt
.-. .-.
| |100 | |100
| | | |
'-' '-'
| |
| |
| |
|---o---|
/| | |\
| | |
| | |
Vchg | '-----o
o-----o |
| |
.-. .-.
| |4.7K | |47K
| | | |
'-' '-'
| |
| |
=== ===
GND GND

I've done plenty of scheming about how to do it with discretes. But
like you said, I'd still want to use a chip in the end, to get matched
transistors. Pairs and arrays, I see ony surface mount, including
zetex.
If I have to go that way, might as well use the ZXCT1009F in SOT-23
with pins 1.9 mm apart according to the diagram. Almost a tenth of an
inch, could probably solder it right onto the pads of a perfboard, eh?

Hello,

When you buy about 10 general purpose PNP transistors from one batch,
you will probably find several transistors that are within some mV
with same Ic.

Doesn't gain determine the balance in a current mirror? If so, one
would have to match for gain. I did match for gain last time I
experimented with current mirrors. I'd like to hear from the experts
about the need for this.

When you design the 2 transistor current sensor at low
bias current, self heating can be neglected and it saves you from
soldering SMD devices like NXP's BCM857. When matching is impossible,
you might add a trimmer potentiometer for nulling.

best regards,

Wim
PA3DJSwww.tetech.nl

About temperature matching. I calculate that one tenth of a degree
centigrade difference between the transistors in a mirror would add
about one percent error to the current mirror. I wouldn't want
temperature vagaries causing any more error than that.



For C> sakes! You are talking about a motorcycle here. 1% up or
down will not make an ioata of difference to the battery charging on the
bike.



I'm wondering
if you could count on discrete transistors on a board to stay within a
tenth of a degree to each other. More fodder for the experts.

 

[NewsGroups]

"petrus bitbyter" <pieterkraltlaatditweg@enditookhccnet.nl> wrote in message
news:47ffecb2$0$8590$e4fe514c@dreader17.news.xs4all.nl...

"gearhead" <nospam@billburg.com> schreef in bericht
news:b7436a31-6637-45cf-a2f8-b549a7a91935@c65g2000hsa.googlegroups.com...
On Apr 9, 4:09 pm, gearhead <nos...@billburg.com> wrote:
Hi all, I'd like to help out some friends on an antique
motorcycle
forum that have a 6 volt regulator project. One of them built a
regulator on perfboard and posted the schematic. It has a couple
of
things I'd tweak, but it works.
The main challenge: his regulator design doesn't incorporate
current
limiting. Even the original relay-style mechanical regulators
incorporated current limiting, because the generators required
it.

(snip)



I remember those old things and the electromecanical circuits that
controlled them, though I never got into their inner workings. So I do
not
know about current control and how it was done.

English is not my native tongue.

Consider a ZDX1009. It is SMD but large enough to be mounted on perf
board.
The datasheet shows the internal schematic which is very simple so you
can
also build it using discretes. You have to use matched transistors as
others
stated already.

petrus bitbyter

You mean the ZDS1009, petrus.
Check out that circuit in the datasheet -- if it doesn't leak, it
won't turn on.
The circuit below shouldn't have any problem starting up.
Below Ilimit, the collector output will not source any current. Just
as load current passes Ilimit the output collector should start
sourcing a small current. I can use this collector current in a
feedback loop with the voltage regulator and make the load current
settle at Ilimit.

V+----+-----Rs-------+-----+---load
| | |
Re | |
| | |
| | |
\ PN2907 / |
| x2 |< |
|---+----| |
/| | |\ |
/ | \ |
| | | |
+------' | /
| | |
| ,-------+--|
| | | |
\ | / \
\| | |/ \
|---+----| '---out
/| |\
PN2222x2
| |
'------+-------'
|
current sink
I = 2 Ilimit Rs / Re
|
|
gnd

For example, Isink = 200 uA, Re = 1k, Rs = .01, Ilimit = 10 A
The current mirrors reach an equilibrium at Ilimit, with 100 uA on
each side.
Below Ilimit, the right side of the current mirror pulls up and the
left side pulls down. The output transistor stays turned off.
Above Ilimit, the left side pulls up and the ride side pulls down,
drawing some current from the base of the output transistor.

Correction: instead of a mirror it needs separate current sinks on
the ground in order to work.

V+----+-----Rs-------+-----+---load
| | |
Re | |
| | |
| | |
\ PN2907 / |
| x2 |< |
|---+----| |
/| | |\ |
/ | \ |
| | | |
+------' | /
| | |
| +--|
| | |
| | \
| | \
Isink = 100uA = Isink '---out
| |
'------+-------'
|
gnd

And another transistor on the output for more gain, if necessary.

Yes, I meant the ZDS1009.

I gave a quick glance and I doubt this circuit will work. The way the
outputtransistor is connected will ruin whatever the others might do. For
instance, most of the current through the right current source will come
through the BE-junction of that transistor. So the balancing for the
PN2907 will be gone. Besides, you will have to match both current sources
which brings you directly to the original schematic. Sure, it will not
start without leakage. As a matter of fact, that leakage is specified in
the datasheet. All bipolar transistors I met so far, had some leakage.
It's inherent to to physics of the transistor. Once amplified, it will
become serious current which brings the circuit to live. I ever build a
current sensor like that and it wordked though not very accurate. I used
no matched or twins transistors and did not bother to make them thermal
connected. At the time, it was good enough for my application.

petrus bitbyter

5% accuracy would be lots in a project like this.

 

[gearhead]

On Apr 11, 3:56 pm, "petrus bitbyter"
<pieterkraltlaatdit...@enditookhccnet.nl> wrote:

"gearhead" <nos...@billburg.com> schreef in berichtnews:b7436a31-6637-45cf-a2f8-b549a7a91935@c65g2000hsa.googlegroups.com...
On Apr 9, 4:09 pm, gearhead <nos...@billburg.com> wrote:



Hi all, I'd like to help out some friends on an antique motorcycle
forum that have a 6 volt regulator project. One of them built a
regulator on perfboard and posted the schematic. It has a couple
of
things I'd tweak, but it works.
The main challenge: his regulator design doesn't incorporate
current
limiting. Even the original relay-style mechanical regulators
incorporated current limiting, because the generators required it.

(snip)

I remember those old things and the electromecanical circuits that
controlled them, though I never got into their inner workings. So I do
not
know about current control and how it was done.

English is not my native tongue.

petrus bitbyter

(snip)


 V+----+-----Rs-------+-----+---load
       |              |     |
       Re             |     |
       |              |     |
       |              |     |
        \   PN2907   /      |
         >|   x2   |<       |
          |---+----|        |
         /|   |    |\       |
        /     |      \      |
       |      |       |     |
       +------'       |    /
       |              |  |
       |              +--|
       |              |  |
       |              |   \
       |              |    \
    Isink = 100uA = Isink   '---out
       |              |
       '------+-------'
              |
             gnd

And another transistor on the output for more gain, if necessary.

Yes, I meant the ZDS1009.

I gave a quick glance and I doubt this circuit will work. The way the
outputtransistor is connected will ruin whatever the others might do. For
instance, most of the current through the right current source will come
through the BE-junction of that transistor. So the balancing for the PN2907
will be gone. Besides, you will have to match both current sources which
brings you directly to the original schematic. Sure, it will not start
without leakage. As a matter of fact, that leakage is specified in the
datasheet. All bipolar transistors I met so far, had some leakage. It's
inherent to to physics of the transistor. Once amplified, it will become
serious current which brings the circuit to live. I ever build a current
sensor like that and it wordked though not very accurate. I used no matched
or twins transistors and did not bother to make them thermal connected. At
the time, it was good enough for my application.

petrus bitbyter- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Fred Bloggs turned me on to this circuit patented by Analog Devices:


.
. -Is->
.
. ----+------[Rs]------+-----
. | |
. [R] [R]
. | |
. .----+ |
. | | |
. | >| |<
. | Q1 |-----+------| Q2
. | /| | |\
. | | |< |
. | +-----| Q3 |
. | | |\ |
. >| | | |
. Q4 |-------------------+
. /| | | |
. | / \ | / \
. | | I | | | I |
. Io \ / | \ /
. | | |
. | | |
. '-------+--------'
. |
. ---
.
Yair, the ground currents gotta be fixed, not a mirror.
If I use my circuit I'll replace the output transistor with a p-
channel mosfet.
gotta go.

 

[Michael A. Terrell]

Joerg wrote:

Michael A. Terrell wrote:
Joerg wrote:
It's been really long ago that I had to make custom GPIB/HPIB bus
connections. Are those the regular 24-pin Centronics like this one?

http://media.digikey.com/pdf/Data%20Sheets/Norcomp%20PDFs/111-yyy-103-001.pdf

Reason is that the Prologix adapter bangs into the wall behind the
equipment rack. And I don't want any of those garden hose cables, never
no more


Yes. I have a whole tray of 60 surplus AMP 552740-1 24 pin PC
mount on hand.


Thanks, Mike. I'll have to get solder cup versions though.

I might have a few from scrapped HP medical equipment. They are the
right connector, but were used between cabinets in an old patient alarm
system I scrapped for the cases for bench power supplies.


--
http://improve-usenet.org/index.html

aioe.org, Goggle Groups, and Web TV users must request to be white
listed, or I will not see your messages.

If you have broadband, your ISP may have a NNTP news server included in
your account: http://www.usenettools.net/ISP.htm


There are two kinds of people on this earth:
The crazy, and the insane.
The first sign of insanity is denying that you're crazy.

 

[Dave Platt]

In article <Xns994F3C1EA299Bzoodlewurdle@140.99.99.130>,
Lostgallifreyan <no-one@nowhere.net> wrote:

rs232 is not used over usb, it's totally different...
i think you make a mistake with usb to rs232 converters...


Possibly, or maybe it was a mistake already by the time it was told to me.
I knew a guy who said he was making an in-car MP3 player that was using
RS232 control signals over USB. I assumed he knew what he was doing, it
wasn't something I knew about, I just remember that bit of conversation.

It may not have been a mistake. Many newer "legacy-free" PCs don't
have RS-232 serial ports. In order to connect these PCs to devices
with an RS-232 interface, one uses a USB-to-RS-232-serial adapter...
USB device port on one side, RS-232 interface (or several of them) on
the other.

Unfortunately, as with most other USB device classes, the protocol for
talking with such adapters isn't entirely specified by the standard,
and it's usually necessary to have a different host driver for each
vendor's USB/RS-232 adapter. Generally, one reads and writes data
over USB to/from a USB bulk-data endpoint, and sends small control
packets to another endpoint to read the device status and control the
RS-232 handshaking lines.

--
Dave Platt <dplatt@radagast.org> AE6EO
Friends of Jade Warrior home page: http://www.radagast.org/jade-warrior
I do _not_ wish to receive unsolicited commercial email, and I will
boycott any company which has the gall to send me such ads!

 

[Joerg]

Are there any low cost (<$10) barrel type limiters for SMA with
anti-parallel ordinary diodes in there? Female with nut on one side,
male sans nut on the other.

I know, I know, this ain't the proper way to do it because of
intermodulation. But it's the usual scenario. Units out in the field, a
bit late in the game, receiver inputs croaking, swapping the whole board
would be a bear. What I found at the usual RF places are costly and
fancy PIN diode limiter setups, often controllable via a DC voltage.
That's overkill in this case. I just need something that cuts hard to
about +/-700mV and can be non-linear. A BAV99 works just fine but I'd
hate to use a Tee and roach it on there.

--
Regards, Joerg

http://www.analogconsultants.com/

 

[Eeyore]

Lostgallifreyan wrote:

Lostgallifreyan wrote
Eeyore wrote

To run LEDs efficiently from 240V AC will also require some active
electronics. I see no-one ever factors in the power losses that'll be
associated with that.


95% efficient power conversion from 5 to 32V and I think I saw similar
claims for a small module that can power a series chain of LED's from
a mains input. Can't cite a source right now, I just got you one
already for the 176 lumens claim. If I can find the other I'll cite
it.

Here's one at 82%: http://www.magtechind.com/__LED_Lighting_PSU/Anz107.pdf
I saw better, but this was one I found while looking for a specific item.
If I find something significantly better on 240 VAC I'll post again.

I doubt you'll do much better actually. 82% sounds about right (not 95%) however
that is at max load.

I see they don't state efficiency for the lower power models.

Graham

 

I am looking for some PCB standoffs that are both plastic and metal.
What I am used to, and all that I can find, are standoffs that are
either plastic or metal. I'm looking for a standoff with metal threads
but a wide plastic body.

I know they exist because I have seen them on competitor's products.
Anybody know how makes them or where to buy them?

I'm not turning up anything with a web search.

 

Does anyone know of a producer of very, very small 3D scanners? I
have just patented a product which requires such an item as part of
its construction. quantity unknown at this time. tkyu

 

[LVMarc]

September is PLL/VCO month and here a great PLL for your use.

This a new mini circuits rpd-1 phase comparator


Link here

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=300141765366&ssPageName=STRK:MESE:IT&ih=020

Thanks for looking and bidding and act now as quantities are limited

Best regards

Marc

 

[Eeyore]

JANA wrote:

I would recommend you do some thinking before typing (talking).

I recommend you stop top-posting.

If you lease the batteries, in the end someone has to pay for them, and it
will not be owner.

If it's a lease who do you mean by the 'owner' ?

Don't you even know what leasing is ?

In any case, the owner has to make his money back, plus a
profit. When the batteries are no longer useful, the owner is going to have
to dispose of the batteries somewhere!!!

You idiot.

You recycle such batteries not dispose of them.

Graham

JANA
_____

"Eeyore" <rabbitsfriendsandrelations@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:46832F2E.B2A05900@hotmail.com...

JANA wrote:

As for the consumer, if he wants to keep his car, the battery replacement
cost is going to be in the average range of $6000 US. If he trades his
car
with the used batteries, this cost will be deducted from the trade-in
value.

The simple and obvious way to deal with this is by leasing the battery, not
owning it.

Graham

 

[Lostgallifreyan]

"Albert Manfredi" <albert.e.manfredi@nospam.com> wrote in
news:JL52B6.4HJ@news.boeing.com:

"Lostgallifreyan" <no-one@nowhere.net> wrote:

You can stick to
the stated preferences for low colour temperatures to try to assert
that
there might be a law that somehow contrdicts all these, but such
effort
doesn't seem very likely to succeed.

So, I take it, you are not willing or able to speculate why humans tend
to be repulsed by rotten-smelling food, or why they might feel a sense
of threat when hearing a prolonged, deep bass sound? Or why guys tend
not to be attracted to overly heavy or, conversely, undernourished
women? All these things are just chalked up as arbitrary "preferences?"

Bert

Some preferences are better founded than others. It makes no sense to pick
arbitrary examples as a way to deal with one specific one.

 

[William Miller]

An ATV package diagram is at http://207.234.249.73/mwd/atv_package.gif

Who makes a heat sink for the "ATV" transistor package or equivalent?

Or is there another package / case style that's equivalent to the ATV?

Thanks.

William E. Miller, AS-EET
prototech@usa.net † IN

 

[Anusol Man]

you are bizarre


"On Web" <a@b.com> wrote in message
news:c79di.433$_l6.18@newsfe6-win.ntli.net...

"Jim" <nomail@riomail.com> wrote in message
news:Xns99526A09F520B5D4AM2@127.0.0.1...
I am in the UK.

Can I build a simple device which would switch a pair of contacts on/off
when my landline phone was being used.

Am thinking of something like this. There might be a simple reed switch
(do such things still exist) which would close its contacts if there was
a current on the phone line.

Perhaps I might need to improve the situation and wind the landline (or
maybe just one of the two wires) around the reed switch.

Would something like this work?

Or can I buy a simple plug-in device for something like a fiver which
closes its contacts when the phone line is active?

What would you use this for?

At the moment I can only think of the obvious application: bugging other
peoples conversations, something I'd not be happy to assist with..

 

[Floyd L. Davidson]

Ross Herbert <rherber1@bigpond.net.au> wrote:

On Sun, 04 Jan 2009 20:36:09 -0900, floyd@apaflo.com (Floyd L. Davidson) wrote:

:Ross Herbert <rherber1@bigpond.net.au> wrote:
:
:> voice frequency circuits were all 300 - 3400Hz in my day.
:
:The PSTN is specified from 400 to 2800 Hz, with 24 dB SNR.
:
:Individual channels on various carrier systems, and some
rivate line voice circuits are specified with more
:bandwidth.
:

In Australia PSTN is specified for 300 - 3400 Hz bandwidth.

I doubt it.

--
Floyd L. Davidson <http://www.apaflo.com/floyd_davidson>
Ukpeagvik (Barrow, Alaska) floyd@apaflo.com

 

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Jordan 18 shoes http://www.ok-export.com
Jordan 19 shoes http://www.ok-export.com
Jordan 20 shoes http://www.ok-export.com
Jordan 21 shoes http://www.ok-export.com
Jordan 22 shoes http://www.ok-export.com
Jordan 23 shoes http://www.ok-export.com


Nike Air Max
Air Max 87 shoes http://www.ok-export.com
Air Max 90 shoes http://www.ok-export.com
Air Max 91 shoes http://www.ok-export.com
Air Max 95 shoes http://www.ok-export.com
Air Max 97 shoes http://www.ok-export.com
Air Max 2003 shoes http://www.ok-export.com
Air Max 360 shoes http://www.ok-export.com
Air Max 180 shoes http://www.ok-export.com
Air Max TN shoes http://www.ok-export.com
Air Max TN2 shoes http://www.ok-export.com
Air Max TN3 shoes http://www.ok-export.com
Air Max TN6 shoes http://www.ok-export.com
Air Max TN8 shoes http://www.ok-export.com
Air Max LTD shoes http://www.ok-export.com
Air Max 1 id shoes http://www.ok-export.com


Nike Shox
Shox NZ shoes http://www.ok-export.com
Shox R4 shoes http://www.ok-export.com
Shox TL3 shoes http://www.ok-export.com
Shox TL4 shoes http://www.ok-export.com
Shox TL shoes http://www.ok-export.com
Shox OZ shoes http://www.ok-export.com
Shox Rival shoes http://www.ok-export.com
Shox Classic shoes http://www.ok-export.com
Shox Energia shoes http://www.ok-export.com


Nike Air Force 1
Air Force 1 low shoes http://www.ok-export.com
Air Force 1 mid shoes http://www.ok-export.com
Air Force 1 high shoes http://www.ok-export.com
Air Force 1 25 shoes http://www.ok-export.com


Nike Dunk sb shoes
Dunk low shoes http://www.ok-export.com
Dunk high shoes http://www.ok-export.com
Adidas shoes http://www.ok-export.com
Adidas Running shoes http://www.ok-export.com
Adidas 35 shoes http://www.ok-export.com
Adidas City shoes http://www.ok-export.com
Adidas Goodyear shoes http://www.ok-export.com
Adidas NBA shoes http://www.ok-export.com
Adidas Y-3 shoes http://www.ok-export.com
T-MAC shoes http://www.ok-export.com


Rift shoes http://www.ok-export.com
BapeStar shoes http://www.ok-export.com
Football shoes http://www.ok-export.com
Timberland boots shoes http://www.ok-export.com
Hardaway shoes http://www.ok-export.com
James shoes http://www.ok-export.com
Puma shoes http://www.ok-export.com
Prada shoes http://www.ok-export.com
Prada low shoes http://www.ok-export.com
Prada high shoes http://www.ok-export.com
Dsquared shoes http://www.ok-export.com
Gucci shoes http://www.ok-export.com
Gucci low shoes http://www.ok-export.com
Gucci high shoes http://www.ok-export.com
LV shoes http://www.ok-export.com
Kappa shoes http://www.ok-export.com
Converse shoes http://www.ok-export.com
Dsquared shoes http://www.ok-export.com
D&G shoes http://www.ok-export.com
Lacoste shoes http://www.ok-export.com
Umbro shoes http://www.ok-export.com
Versace shoes http://www.ok-export.com
Woman boots http://www.ok-export.com
ugg boots http://www.ok-export.com
Burberry shoes http://www.ok-export.com
EVISU shoes http://www.ok-export.com
Hogan Shoes http://www.ok-export.com
Hurricane Shoes http://www.ok-export.com


handbag Bags http://www.ok-export.com
LV Bag http://www.ok-export.com
Gucci Bag http://www.ok-export.com
Prada Bag http://www.ok-export.com
D&G Bag http://www.ok-export.com
Leather Bag http://www.ok-export.com
A&F Bag http://www.ok-export.com
Juicy Bag http://www.ok-export.com
Guess Bag http://www.ok-export.com
Feidi Bag http://www.ok-export.com
Coach Bag http://www.ok-export.com
Chloe Bag http://www.ok-export.com
Chanel Bag http://www.ok-export.com
ugg bag http://www.ok-export.com
Burberry bag http://www.ok-export.com
Dooney&Bourke bag http://www.ok-export.com
Jimmy Choo bag http://www.ok-export.com
Dior bag http://www.ok-export.com


Purse
CHANEL Purse http://www.ok-export.com
COACH Purse http://www.ok-export.com
Else Purse http://www.ok-export.com
GUCCI Purse http://www.ok-export.com
LV Purse http://www.ok-export.com
man purse http://www.ok-export.com
Strap
BAPE Strap http://www.ok-export.com
BOSS Strap http://www.ok-export.com
CHANEL Strap http://www.ok-export.com
D&G Strap http://www.ok-export.com
GIORGIO ARMANI Strap http://www.ok-export.com
GUCCI Strap http://www.ok-export.com
LV Strap http://www.ok-export.com
Glasses
ARMANI Glasses http://www.ok-export.com
BURBERRY Glasses http://www.ok-export.com
BVLGARI Glasses http://www.ok-export.com
Ray.Ban Glasses http://www.ok-export.com
VERSACE Glasses http://www.ok-export.com
Prada Glasses http://www.ok-export.com
OKEY Glasses http://www.ok-export.com
LV Glasses http://www.ok-export.com
HERMES Glasses http://www.ok-export.com
EL.FERROL Glasses http://www.ok-export.com
DIOR Glasses http://www.ok-export.com
D&G Glasses http://www.ok-export.com
GUCCI Glasses http://www.ok-export.com
CHANEL Glasses http://www.ok-export.com
CS Glasses http://www.ok-export.com
CARTIER Glasses http://www.ok-export.com
Watch http://www.ok-export.com
Rolex Watch http://www.ok-export.com
clothing http://www.ok-export.com
10 DEEP clothing http://www.ok-export.com
A&F clothing http://www.ok-export.com
Abercrombie&Fitch clothing http://www.ok-export.com
Abercrombie & Fitch clothing http://www.ok-export.com
ADICOLOR clothing http://www.ok-export.com
ADIDAS clothing http://www.ok-export.com
AK clothing http://www.ok-export.com
ARMANI T-shirt http://www.ok-export.com
ARMANI Sweater http://www.ok-export.com
polo Sweater http://www.ok-export.com
Artful dodger clothing http://www.ok-export.com
BAPE clothing http://www.ok-export.com
BBC clothing http://www.ok-export.com
CLH clothing http://www.ok-export.com
COOGI clothing http://www.ok-export.com
D&G clothing http://www.ok-export.com
DSQUARED clothing http://www.ok-export.com
ED clothing http://www.ok-export.com
HARDY clothing http://www.ok-export.com
EVISU clothing http://www.ok-export.com
EVS clothing http://www.ok-export.com
GGG clothing http://www.ok-export.com
G-STAR clothing http://www.ok-export.com
LACOSTE T-shirt clothing http://www.ok-export.com
Lacoste Sweater http://www.ok-export.com
LRG clothing http://www.ok-export.com
NY clothing http://www.ok-export.com
O&L clothing http://www.ok-export.com
POLO T-shirt 3 4 5 http://www.ok-export.com
POLO T-shirt clothing http://www.ok-export.com
Byrberry T-shirt http://www.ok-export.com
UGG clothing http://www.ok-export.com
Byrberry clothing http://www.ok-export.com
NFL Jersey http://www.ok-export.com
scarf scarves http://www.ok-export.com
jeans http://www.ok-export.com
AFTFUL DODGER jeans http://www.ok-export.com
AKA STASH HOUSE jeans http://www.ok-export.com
APE jeans http://www.ok-export.com
BBC jeans http://www.ok-export.com
COOGI jeans http://www.ok-export.com
D&G jeans http://www.ok-export.com
DIESEL jeans http://www.ok-export.com
ED jeans http://www.ok-export.com
EVISU jeans http://www.ok-export.com
Gino jeans http://www.ok-export.com
G-Star jeans http://www.ok-export.com
LRG jeans http://www.ok-export.com
RMC jeans http://www.ok-export.com
ROCK jeans http://www.ok-export.com
SHMACK jeans http://www.ok-export.com
TR jeans http://www.ok-export.com
ugg jeans http://www.ok-export.com
hat cap http://www.ok-export.com
Chanel hat Cap http://www.ok-export.com
D&G hat cap http://www.ok-export.com
G-Star hat Cap http://www.ok-export.com
Gucci hat Cap http://www.ok-export.com
lv hat Cap http://www.ok-export.com
POLO hat Cap http://www.ok-export.com
Prada hat Cap http://www.ok-export.com


PSP sp2 http://www.ok-export.com
MP3 MP4 http://www.ok-export.com
Mobile phone http://www.ok-export.com
iPhone http://www.ok-export.com
nokia 8800 http://www.ok-export.com
nokia n95 http://www.ok-export.com
nokia n93i http://www.ok-export.com
nokia n73 http://www.ok-export.com
memory stick http://www.ok-export.com
memory strip http://www.ok-export.com

 

[Don Pearce]

On Sun, 01 Jul 2007 10:26:04 GMT, "Arfa Daily"
<arfa.daily@ntlworld.com> wrote:

"Mr.T" <MrT@home> wrote in message
news:46874146$0$14825$afc38c87@news.optusnet.com.au...

"Arfa Daily" <arfa.daily@ntlworld.com> wrote in message
news:cPuhi.7368$nE2.4160@newsfe3-win.ntli.net...
There seems to be a point being missed here though. Governments are
trying
to force these things on us. So they are now appearing in shops at very
cheap prices. That includes both 'reputable' makes, which must be being
subsidised by the manufacturers or somebody in the supply chain, as well
as
'no names' that probably are Chinese manufactured shit. How is Joe Public
to
know which he is buying, when they are all the same price?

In Australia the "reputable makes" are simply rebadged Chinese shit as
well.
Are you sure you are not simply being fooled as well?

MrT.



That's very possible, and illustrates the point that if we, as people 'in
the know' can't tell if we are being sold genuine 'good' ones at a
subsidised price, badged Chinese shit at what *looks* like a good price, or
genuine Chinese shit at what's probably a realistic price, then how is Joe
Public going to stand any chance ?

We can all be fooled. Our governments do it to us all the time ...

Arfa

well, here in the UK the country of origin must be marked on the pack.

d

--
Pearce Consulting
http://www.pearce.uk.com

 

[Phil Allison]

"Half a Brain Daily"

Agreed that *should* be the case, but the fact is that the envelope of a
vacuum light bulb remains substantially cold in use,

** Only true if the bulb is made from a special grade of quartz glass with
very low IR absorption.

Eg: " Infrasil ".

whilst a 6L6's envelope will take the skin off your fingertips after a few
minutes use ...

** Made with IR absorbing glass, as are nearly all light bulbs.

Some low powered lamps and most "pilot " bulbs are vacuum lamps and they get
damn hot.



....... Phil

 

[Frank]

I need two of each to repair two switch mode power supplys

SPW47N60C3 Cool MOST Power Transistor

SDT12S60 Silicon Carbide Schottky Diode