Advice requested Whirlpool Duet Sport Washing Machine "poppe

[Danny DiAmico]

On Thu, 28 Apr 2016 14:39:57 -0400, TekkieÂŽ wrote:

Glad to hear the gray well water cleaned up.
Was the real problem ever determined?

We can never be sure, but what we did was hike downhill from the
spot the 500 foot well was dug. We hiked about 500 feet below
that house and then we dug into the hillside (it's public open
space, so, we just dug without permission with our hands).

Since the hill is steep, there was only about six inches of
top soil, which we kicked away with our boots, and we noticed
that there was a wide expance of gray "mud" at that level.

When we stopped for a moment to survey the area, we belatedly
noticed a "band" of no vegetation at about the same level,
crossing the mountainside along the isocline.

Given that we kicked away the topsoil in a half dozen spots,
where this band seems very localized (about 100 feet long and
only about 6 feet to 15 feet in height), our *assumption* is
that there is a band of mud that was mixed up with the
Franciscan sediments 30 million (or so) years ago when
the Pacific plate rammed into the edge of California.

So, what we *think* happened is that the well drillers simply
hit that "puddle" of gray mud at about 500 feet and that it took
months to pump all that mud out from the pocket that the drillers
were obtaining the water from.

The funny thing is that just those two houses experienced that
gray mud, which even the well drillers said was odd in our area,
so, take everything we say with a grain of salt, but do realize
there are a lot of engineers on this hell who have pondered this
situation, so, that's the best we could have come up with.

BTW, the 100-foot long 15-feet wide bridge and treehouse was put
on hold because the storms blew it down. But we rebuilt it, and
we're starting to build the 16-foot-by-16-foot treehouse itself,
but this time, we anchored 1/2 inch steel cables to hold the
treehouse *above* the 100-foot long bridge (Jeff Liebermann is
always welcome to visit and I'll show it to him since he lives
near by).

If you want, I'll snap some pictures of the new setup, but, it
will look really nice since it's 80 feet above the ground when
it's all done. Right now, we have the 100-foot suspension bridge
done, and we're starting on the treehouse itself, which is going
to be floating above the suspension bridge about 75 feet from
the hillside and about 25 feet from the anchor redwood and about
80 or so feet above the ground.

 

[Danny DiAmico]

On Thu, 28 Apr 2016 06:54:05 -0500, CRNG wrote:

Well done. It's good to see that kind of community-based planning,
cooperation and action.

Thanks for noticing that we all work together (as Jeff Liebermann would
know, we stick together in the mountains).

I called the "circuit board medics" at 800-547-2049 last week who
said that an F28 on the Whirlpool duet sport washer is almost always
a bad motor control board.

This was before I had taken out the MCU and found it burnt, so, they're
right. In hindsight, if I had only known that, I wouldn't have removed
both the CCU and the EMI filter (I broke a wire on the CCU trying to get
it out, for example).
http://i.cubeupload.com/k1m0mV.jpg

So, to help others.
1. If you get an F28 on the Whirlpool duet sport WFW8410SW, it's almost
always the motor control board.
2. Wiggle the blue wires on both the motor control board and the CCU,
but if that doesn't solve the problem, then you have to remove the
motor control board.
3. To remove the MCU, you have to remove the 16 quarter-inch hexhead
screws holding the back plate in place.
4. It's advised to also remove the lower cross brace (two more screws).
5. Some people remove the top of the shock absorber but I left it in place.
6. Then you have to cut or dig out the 4 tie wraps holding the harnesses
to the MCU plastic covering.
7. Then you have to be a genius or a magician to put a screwdriver under
the MCU white box and pry it up and then slide the MCU toward the
front of the washer, to get it to release its grip.
8. Then you remove all the wire connections & pull it out from the
bottom of the Whirlpool duet sport washer.
9. Once you pry open (and probably break) the crappy plastic (they
really use really really really brittle plastic), you will see
the scorch marks as shown below.
http://i.cubeupload.com/k1m0mV.jpg

At this point, you put the MMU back in its plastic case, and you remove
the CCU (if desired) and you ship both of those boards to the rebuilders
at "Circuit Board Medics" 800-547-2049x3) at your cost. They told me
that USPS is the least responsible, so use UPS or Fedex.

Exclusive of your costs to ship to them, the charges are:
A. Exchange rebuilt MCU = $175 ($160 + $15 shipping + $100 core charge)
B. Rebuild your MCU = $145 ($130 + $15 return shipping)

They give you a 1-year warranty and they will test both boards for
free, just in case my totally burned out MCU isn't the real problem.
http://i.cubeupload.com/xRnjw9.jpg

Here's a picture of my CCU, which seems to be in OK shape:
http://i.cubeupload.com/zBAmq5.jpg

Unless I find a better deal than ~$150, I think I'll have them rebuild
my board. A brand-new washer is only four or five times that at about
$600 to $800, so, it's an expensive enough repair to wonder if I should
just buy a new washer instead.

Nonetheless, I don't have much money lately (being retired is costing
me more than I thought, especially with two families living under the
same household now, with my sister and her kids living with me), so,
I will just look to see if I can find a new board for around that same
price.

Otherwise, I'd suggest the rebuilders as they seem competent.

 

[Danny DiAmico]

On Mon, 02 May 2016 10:19:21 -0700, Uncle Monster wrote:

You should really call your power company first to see if they'll supply
it and guarantee it. If you get your own, you'll need a licensed

electrician to install it because he'll notify the power company that
the seal has been cut off the meter mount. If you have an old style
meter which requires a human meter reader to look at it, he/she/it
will report the removal of the seal and this upsets power companies.
If you have a smart meter, it will rat on you to the power company
that it has been removed without permission. Now you can install your
own whole house arrester on your main power panel without having to
notify the power company but you should find out about the requirements
for permits. If you're in a rural area, there are usually no permit
Nazis around and nosy neighbors to turn you in. ^_^

It's a smart meter.

Yes. It's rural. And I have a good rapport with my neighbors, where
we have a rule, simply stated as "you can do anything you want on
your property and I won't say 'nuthin" ... just stay off "my" property!

Heh heh ... (everyone out here has guns except me, and the only reason
I don't have 'em is because I'm worried about the kids getting a hold
of 'em accidentally, since I know of a family that was affected by that
happening).

I like the idea of putting something on the circuit breaker itself.

Here's what I have, as far as I know, given that all houses out here
must have no wires attached to them within 25 feet of the house except
underground:
1. I have my own dedicated power pole with a transformer on it about
fifty feet from the house.
2. The underground feed pops up at the outside panel and I can see
three inch-thick aluminium feeds (which I presume is 200 amp service
at two phases)
3. The meter is a smart meter attached at the feed, outside the house.
4. The Generac inverter box is on the inside of the wall where the
meter is.
5. There is a main circuit breaker panel outside at the meter which
basically has only a few circuits on it as I recall (the pool,
the well, and the big stuff like the garage 220 volts).
6. Inside there are two circuit breaker panels, one for the old part
of the house and one for the newer part of the house).

So, I would guess that I put the device in the circuit breaker panel
outside. Is that correct?

 

Danny DiAmico posted for all of us...

Thanks for all your advice; I think it's the Motor Control Unit
(Whirlpool P/N 8540540).

If you skip to the bottom of this post, you'll see pictures of the
burned board. Do you concur based on the photos below that it's
the motor control board?

Why didn't the diagnostic test work then?

Anyway, after being totally unsuccessful at getting the Whirlpool duet
sport WFW8410SW washing machine to diagnose anything other than F28
(which is apparently the same "communications error" as the infamous F11
that youtubers all deplore), I finally just took the whole thing apart.

The en133200 F11.126/980-214 EMI Noise Filter near where the power
comes in seemed to be in good shape:
http://i.cubeupload.com/9NouUy.gif

The main computer control board (Whirlpool PN W10063510) also seemed
to be in good shape on the bottom:
http://i.cubeupload.com/3AJpZe.gif

And on the top:
http://i.cubeupload.com/vHyNQx.gif

And even looking to the sides:
http://i.cubeupload.com/s47l8r.gif
http://i.cubeupload.com/HXFRaC.gif

But, the motor control board had "something" wrong with it based
on what the plastic looked like:
http://i.cubeupload.com/0hFNfc.gif

I don't know what actually burned yet:
http://i.cubeupload.com/NzBAH1.gif

As the two capacitors seem to be intact:
http://i.cubeupload.com/DLgrxP.gif

Here's one of the capacitors at a side view:
http://i.cubeupload.com/LHKttV.gif

And here's the other capacitor:
http://i.cubeupload.com/eySoyP.gif

This shows a burned trace on the MMU:
http://i.cubeupload.com/zTTwBd.gif

And this shows a closeup of that:
http://i.cubeupload.com/pg2KkN.gif

As does this show burnt components or traces:
http://i.cubeupload.com/hXFq4P.gif

I don't think I can figure out, on my own, whether
it's repairable (I suspect it's not - do you?).

So, at this point, if you have good pointers for where to buy a
new Whirlpool motor control board (PN 8540540), I'd appreciate
more advice now that it's pretty sure that it's the MCU and not
the CCU.

DOS Dead On Scene...

--
Tekkie

 

[Danny DiAmico]

On Mon, 25 Apr 2016 01:37:59 +0000, Danny DiAmico wrote:

Wife pressed the "Power" button on the Costco Whirlpool Duet Sport washing
machine and then, when she pressed the separate "Start" button, something
popped. She said it sounded like a sharp crack, like a "bottle breaking".

Just to give back to the team with a current update ........
http://i.cubeupload.com/YGQ9cM.jpg

1. I shipped the boards off to "Circuit Board Medics" at 800-547-2049
2. They told me over the phone my F28 (aka F11) is almost certainly a blown MMU.
3. They didn't know it at the time, but my MMU has multiple charcoal spots!
4. So, they're right.
http://i.cubeupload.com/k1m0mV.jpg

5. Nonetheless, I sent them *both* the MMU and the CCU.
6. This is so that they can test them both (just in case).
http://i.cubeupload.com/RfF0Bv.jpg

7. Current charges are $130 + $15 Fed Ex out + $15 shipping & handling back.
8. That's $160 for them to rebuild the MMU, with a 1-year warranty.
http://i.cubeupload.com/k7Hwkl.jpg

9. Other options were to buy a new ($200 to $300) or used ($100 to $200) MMU.
10. Or a new washing machine ($600 to $800).
http://i.cubeupload.com/ErHVuc.jpg

 

On Thursday, May 5, 2016 at 1:57:46 PM UTC-4, Oren wrote:

On Thu, 5 May 2016 01:14:25 -0000 (UTC), Danny DiAmico
dannydiamico@yahoo.com> wrote:

On Mon, 25 Apr 2016 01:37:59 +0000, Danny DiAmico wrote:

Wife pressed the "Power" button on the Costco Whirlpool Duet Sport washing
machine and then, when she pressed the separate "Start" button, something
popped. She said it sounded like a sharp crack, like a "bottle breaking".

Just to give back to the team with a current update ........
http://i.cubeupload.com/YGQ9cM.jpg

1. I shipped the boards off to "Circuit Board Medics" at 800-547-2049
2. They told me over the phone my F28 (aka F11) is almost certainly a blown MMU.
3. They didn't know it at the time, but my MMU has multiple charcoal spots!
4. So, they're right.
http://i.cubeupload.com/k1m0mV.jpg

5. Nonetheless, I sent them *both* the MMU and the CCU.
6. This is so that they can test them both (just in case).
http://i.cubeupload.com/RfF0Bv.jpg

7. Current charges are $130 + $15 Fed Ex out + $15 shipping & handling back.
8. That's $160 for them to rebuild the MMU, with a 1-year warranty.
http://i.cubeupload.com/k7Hwkl.jpg

9. Other options were to buy a new ($200 to $300) or used ($100 to $200) MMU.
10. Or a new washing machine ($600 to $800).
http://i.cubeupload.com/ErHVuc.jpg

Danny,

Have you read the warranty for what is actually covered? (Power surges
or installed by a homeowner, acts of God) :-\

Wouldn't matter; any part is subject to the same exclusions. I had Circuit Board Medics rebuild a Mazda PCM and it developed a problem a year later. They said send it back, and it came back in two days no charge. This is a real good company and I wouldn't hesitate to recommend them for any kind of PC work.

John

 

[Danny DiAmico]

On Thu, 05 May 2016 10:57:38 -0700, Oren wrote:

Danny,

Have you read the warranty for what is actually covered? (Power surges
or installed by a homeowner, acts of God) :-\

Naah. I'm not a believer in warrantees.

A lot of people buy batteries, for example, based on the warranty, which
is ridiculous for something so easily characterized by its physical
attributes. Same with tires which have standardized tests run on them
(yes, I know the tests are flawed, but relying on the standard government
tests is better than relying upon marketing warrantees).

In fact, I can't think of more than one or two instances in my entire
life that I've actually made good on a parts warranty anyway.

So, I'm not really worried about the warranty. I'm more worried that
I just paid almost $200 to repair something that is only worth about
3 to 4 times that, which is an almost unacceptable level of repair.

In fact, parting out washing machines must be a lucrative business
because the darn thing only has about a dozen major parts, so, if each
major part is $200, then I should *buy* new washing machines and part
them out as a business to supplement my retirement.

 

[Danny DiAmico]

On Thu, 05 May 2016 20:25:26 +0000, Danny DiAmico wrote:

In fact, I can't think of more than one or two instances in my entire
life that I've actually made good on a parts warranty anyway.

By the way, since I wonder what you guys think of the three shipping
services, as I ran into the following "issue" trying to ship a 2 pound
box from California to South Carolina.

1. USPS
2. UPS
3. Fedex

USPS
Since I needed to trust that the parts got there and that they weren't
lost, and since I didn't pay for insurance (I never do), I didn't use
the USPS because, in my experience, USPS may be inexpensive, but they're
quite unreliable (highly unreliable in fact).

UPS
Normally, I have no problem with UPS being the cheapest shipper and the
second most reliable shipper. But in this case, UPS was $18 so I walked
out the door and headed over to FedEx to check their prices.

FedEx
Normally I find FedEx the most reliable but often the most expensive,
but in this case, they were 3 dollars cheaper (on a $15 price, which
is a whopping 20%) so, I went with FedEx five day.

Do you normally find FedEx to be cheaper than UPS?
I thought it was normally the other way around?

 

[Oren]

On Thu, 5 May 2016 01:14:25 -0000 (UTC), Danny DiAmico
<dannydiamico@yahoo.com> wrote:

On Mon, 25 Apr 2016 01:37:59 +0000, Danny DiAmico wrote:

Wife pressed the "Power" button on the Costco Whirlpool Duet Sport washing
machine and then, when she pressed the separate "Start" button, something
popped. She said it sounded like a sharp crack, like a "bottle breaking".

Just to give back to the team with a current update ........
http://i.cubeupload.com/YGQ9cM.jpg

1. I shipped the boards off to "Circuit Board Medics" at 800-547-2049
2. They told me over the phone my F28 (aka F11) is almost certainly a blown MMU.
3. They didn't know it at the time, but my MMU has multiple charcoal spots!
4. So, they're right.
http://i.cubeupload.com/k1m0mV.jpg

5. Nonetheless, I sent them *both* the MMU and the CCU.
6. This is so that they can test them both (just in case).
http://i.cubeupload.com/RfF0Bv.jpg

7. Current charges are $130 + $15 Fed Ex out + $15 shipping & handling back.
8. That's $160 for them to rebuild the MMU, with a 1-year warranty.
http://i.cubeupload.com/k7Hwkl.jpg

9. Other options were to buy a new ($200 to $300) or used ($100 to $200) MMU.
10. Or a new washing machine ($600 to $800).
http://i.cubeupload.com/ErHVuc.jpg

Danny,

Have you read the warranty for what is actually covered? (Power surges
or installed by a homeowner, acts of God) :-\

 

[Danny DiAmico]

On Thu, 05 May 2016 16:49:28 -0400, JC wrote:

Fedex, always cheaper.

I'm actually surprised that FedEx is "always cheaper" than UPS.
If that's true, I wonder why?

Of course, it could be simply a business decision, or, maybe they
have inherent efficiencies over UPS?

Why would Fedex be "always cheaper" than UPS (for typical packages)?


> Have you not heard of Ebay?

Of course.
When I googled for the part, I saw $25 boards on Ebay.
While I love a good price as much as anyone does, the range for the boards was
from $25 to $250 aftermarket, and $300 OEM from Whirlpool.

The problem with that is I don't have the EXPERIENCE to know which Ebay
supplier is reliably providing a good board or not.

While I'm all for taking risks, you usually have to offset a risk
with some knowledge. For example, I don't buy tire warrantees because
I can fix my own flats, so, I ameliorate the risk.

I didn't have the knowledge to buy a $25 board on Ebay and get
away with it on the first shot by getting a good part.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Whirlpool-Kenmore-FL-Washer-MOTOR-CONTROL-BOARD-8540540-W10163007-WFW8500SR00-/141974974420?hash=item210e5e2fd4:g:zo4AAOSwjMJXC~dR
If the link is not working its Ebay item 141974974420
There's probably other listings

I saw that EXACT board when I first googled, as I remember the
writing on the metal heat sink. The problem is that I don't
have enough information to TRUST that $60 price. Yeah, I see
the 98% feedback but I don't know how much I can trust that.

Like anyone, I'd rather pay $60 + $15 +$15 = $90 over
$145 + $15 = $160 but I feel I can trust the circuit board medics,
while I'm not sure what to trust in that board.

So, I *would* have gone for the $25 board if I had more information,
but I didn't have enough to trust Ebay.

 

[JC]

On 5/5/2016 4:34 PM, Danny DiAmico wrote:

On Thu, 05 May 2016 20:25:26 +0000, Danny DiAmico wrote:


Do you normally find FedEx to be cheaper than UPS?
I thought it was normally the other way around?

Fedex, always cheaper.

Have you not heard of Ebay?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Whirlpool-Kenmore-FL-Washer-MOTOR-CONTROL-BOARD-8540540-W10163007-WFW8500SR00-/141974974420?hash=item210e5e2fd4:g:zo4AAOSwjMJXC~dR

If the link is not working its Ebay item 141974974420

There's probably other listings

 

[Chuck]

On Thu, 5 May 2016 20:34:26 -0000 (UTC), Danny DiAmico
<dannydiamico@yahoo.com> wrote:

On Thu, 05 May 2016 20:25:26 +0000, Danny DiAmico wrote:

In fact, I can't think of more than one or two instances in my entire
life that I've actually made good on a parts warranty anyway.

By the way, since I wonder what you guys think of the three shipping
services, as I ran into the following "issue" trying to ship a 2 pound
box from California to South Carolina.

1. USPS
2. UPS
3. Fedex

USPS
Since I needed to trust that the parts got there and that they weren't
lost, and since I didn't pay for insurance (I never do), I didn't use
the USPS because, in my experience, USPS may be inexpensive, but they're
quite unreliable (highly unreliable in fact).

UPS
Normally, I have no problem with UPS being the cheapest shipper and the
second most reliable shipper. But in this case, UPS was $18 so I walked
out the door and headed over to FedEx to check their prices.

FedEx
Normally I find FedEx the most reliable but often the most expensive,
but in this case, they were 3 dollars cheaper (on a $15 price, which
is a whopping 20%) so, I went with FedEx five day.

Do you normally find FedEx to be cheaper than UPS?
I thought it was normally the other way around?

Where I am in OK., Fed Ex is extremely unreliable. They deliver to
the wrong address, claim they have come to your house when they have
not and have claimed they can't find a normal street address. USPS and
UPS are both very reliable.

---
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
https://www.avast.com/antivirus

 

[Danny DiAmico]

On Thu, 05 May 2016 19:22:48 -0400, JC wrote:

You seem to be overworking the washing machine thing, for $60 I'd go for
the "tested working" board, if it don't work or blows up when installed
you get your money back through Ebay (no contest there) and you probably
know there is something else wrong that's blowing up the board. Same
thing will happen with your $200 rebuild. Scary stuff.

This may very well be the case.
It's too late now, but, you must agree that I did *ask* first!

Your suggestion didn't come up until *after* I made the decision.
However, its' still a good one, as maybe I erred on the wrong side.

I won't know if it works if I made the right decision.
But if it doesn't work - that's where we'll see if it matters.

I do *understand* your point that I wasted my money out of sheer fear.
But, to my credit, I *did* ask first.

 

[JC]

On 5/5/2016 6:30 PM, Danny DiAmico wrote:

On Thu, 05 May 2016 16:49:28 -0400, JC wrote:

Fedex, always cheaper.


I'm actually surprised that FedEx is "always cheaper" than UPS.
If that's true, I wonder why?

Of course, it could be simply a business decision, or, maybe they
have inherent efficiencies over UPS?

Why would Fedex be "always cheaper" than UPS (for typical packages)?

UPS is union labor, Fedex are not, which is why they are sometimes
really crap at deliveries using contracted white van guys. I've had
plenty of problems with fedex but they usually sort it in my favor. Not
knocking UPS, they are good but also have a few bad guys. For a washing
machine board I'd use USPS priority. (Use the free boxes). Never lost
one package in 16 years.

You seem to be overworking the washing machine thing, for $60 I'd go for
the "tested working" board, if it don't work or blows up when installed
you get your money back through Ebay (no contest there) and you probably
know there is something else wrong that's blowing up the board. Same
thing will happen with your $200 rebuild. Scary stuff.

 

Danny DiAmico posted for all of us...

On Thu, 05 May 2016 16:49:28 -0400, JC wrote:

Fedex, always cheaper.


I'm actually surprised that FedEx is "always cheaper" than UPS.
If that's true, I wonder why?

Of course, it could be simply a business decision, or, maybe they
have inherent efficiencies over UPS?

Why would Fedex be "always cheaper" than UPS (for typical packages)?


Have you not heard of Ebay?

Of course.
When I googled for the part, I saw $25 boards on Ebay.
While I love a good price as much as anyone does, the range for the boards was
from $25 to $250 aftermarket, and $300 OEM from Whirlpool.

The problem with that is I don't have the EXPERIENCE to know which Ebay
supplier is reliably providing a good board or not.

While I'm all for taking risks, you usually have to offset a risk
with some knowledge. For example, I don't buy tire warrantees because
I can fix my own flats, so, I ameliorate the risk.

I didn't have the knowledge to buy a $25 board on Ebay and get
away with it on the first shot by getting a good part.


http://www.ebay.com/itm/Whirlpool-Kenmore-FL-Washer-MOTOR-CONTROL-BOARD-8540540-W10163007-WFW8500SR00-/141974974420?hash=item210e5e2fd4:g:zo4AAOSwjMJXC~dR
If the link is not working its Ebay item 141974974420
There's probably other listings

I saw that EXACT board when I first googled, as I remember the
writing on the metal heat sink. The problem is that I don't
have enough information to TRUST that $60 price. Yeah, I see
the 98% feedback but I don't know how much I can trust that.

Like anyone, I'd rather pay $60 + $15 +$15 = $90 over
$145 + $15 = $160 but I feel I can trust the circuit board medics,
while I'm not sure what to trust in that board.

So, I *would* have gone for the $25 board if I had more information,
but I didn't have enough to trust Ebay.

Everybody has their comfort level. It's the crap shoot of life.

Isn't it time to collect money off your sister? Is she the one that broke
it? <g> Map the laundromats?

--
Tekkie

 

[Danny DiAmico]

On Sat, 07 May 2016 15:14:48 -0400, TekkieÂŽ wrote:

Everybody has their comfort level. It's the crap shoot of life.

Isn't it time to collect money off your sister? Is she the one that
broke it? <g> Map the laundromats?

I think the multiple power surges during the recent rain is what
fried the MMU board.

I haven't heard anything from the rebuilders yet, but I'll let
you know what happens when I know.

 

Any suggestions?

PMD 620 stayed black when slid on power

BLACK SCREEN

I said

YOU MOTHERFUCKER

3 times n put it back on the dash top.

45 minute later picked it up slid power on n there we were recording


EYEEYAHHAHAHHA YOU MOTHERFUCKER $300

 

Danny DiAmico posted for all of us...

On Sat, 07 May 2016 15:14:48 -0400, TekkieŽ wrote:

Everybody has their comfort level. It's the crap shoot of life.

Isn't it time to collect money off your sister? Is she the one that
broke it? <g> Map the laundromats?

I think the multiple power surges during the recent rain is what
fried the MMU board.

You don't have to tell her that. She creates a power surge every time she
uses it. It was fine to she touched it...<G>

I haven't heard anything from the rebuilders yet, but I'll let
you know what happens when I know.

That reminds me of something. Actually two...

--
Tekkie

 

[Danny DiAmico]

On Mon, 25 Apr 2016 01:37:59 +0000, Danny DiAmico wrote:

> Any washing machine experienced folks here?

Bad news.

The Circuit Board Medics said the motor control board (PN 8540540, also
PN W10163007) for the Whirlpool Duet Sport WFW8410SW washing machine
was not repairable. http://i.cubeupload.com/k1m0mV.jpg

They said it's not even useful for the $100 core charge for the
$165 so the price, they say, is $230 for a rebuilt board.

Sigh.

 

[Oren]

On Mon, 23 May 2016 17:19:30 -0000 (UTC), Danny DiAmico
<dannydiamico@yahoo.com> wrote:

On Mon, 25 Apr 2016 01:37:59 +0000, Danny DiAmico wrote:

Any washing machine experienced folks here?

Bad news.

The Circuit Board Medics said the motor control board (PN 8540540, also
PN W10163007) for the Whirlpool Duet Sport WFW8410SW washing machine
was not repairable. http://i.cubeupload.com/k1m0mV.jpg

They said it's not even useful for the $100 core charge for the
$165 so the price, they say, is $230 for a rebuilt board.

Sigh.

Send the wife on a shopping spree to the local appliance store for a
new unit that meets her fancy.

Huckleberry