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Thanks for that Chuck. I think the GFCIs that I have are probably OKOn Mon, 23 Jul 2018 16:46:17 -0700, etpm@whidbey.com wrote:
On Mon, 23 Jul 2018 12:09:48 -0700 (PDT), "pfjw@aol.com"
peterwieck33@gmail.com> wrote:
On Monday, July 23, 2018 at 2:22:39 PM UTC-4, et...@whidbey.com wrote:
In my 10 year old home I am having trouble with a couple GFCI
receptacles. But I think the problem is probably with every one in the
house, as they are all the same age and brand.
GFCI devices have a service life of about ten (10) years in a dry location, and anywhere from 2-5 years in a damp location. In many cases, their effectiveness as a ground-fault devices is long-gone, whereas they will still function (somewhat) as a normal breaker. There are exceptions - see monthly test below.
Yes, DO test them every month as suggested.
YES, DO replace them IMMEDIATELY the moment they display any sort of wonkiness.
FULL STOP.
Peter Wieck
Melrose Park, PA
Thanks Peter,
I do test most of the GFCI receptacles monthly. They always pass. So
I'll replace the two and see what happens.
Eric
I just replaced the GFCI outlets in my house. I had a problem with
triggering for no apparent reason with new GE ones. Replaced these
with Levitons and haven't had one trigger randomly. The washing
machine is connected to one and the electric lawnmower is connected to
another.
On 24 Jul 2018 19:49:43 GMT, Allodoxaphobia
knock_yourself_out@example.net> wrote:
On Tue, 24 Jul 2018 03:02:48 -0700 (PDT), tabbypurr@gmail.com wrote:
On Monday, 23 July 2018 19:22:39 UTC+1, et...@whidbey.com wrote:
In my 10 year old home I am having trouble with a couple GFCI
receptacles. But I think the problem is probably with every one in the
house, as they are all the same age and brand. In the bathroom when I
turn off the hair clippers I use for beard trimming the GFCI almost
always trips. But only when the clippers are being turned off.
In the basement we have an twenty year old washing machine that we
kept to use in case the upstairs new washer needed repair, which has
ben more than once. When the washer changes cycles it will randomely
trip the GFCI. Like the upstairs GFCI it only happens when the load is
removed from the GFCI. For example, the water valve solenoids, when
switched off by the washer, will cause the GFCI to trip. Or when the
washer motor is turned off when it changes speed.
Do I need to buy better GFCI receptacles? Or is this just because
the things are generally so sensitive to arcing when a contact opens
that any brand will show the same behavior/
Thanks,
Eric
We had a thread on this very recently in sed. GFCIs are unbalanced at
relatively high frequencies, the result being they tend to trip on
arcing. Of course that doesn't rule out your GFCIs being faulty or
substandard, or your washing machine having N-E leakage.
In a previous residence I had an "outside" GFCI trip when using an
electrice lawn mower --- when the mower was plugged into the
still-coiled 75 foot extension cord (... about a 3 foot diameter coil).
Uncoil the extension cord and it ran Just Fine. The inductive kick of
turning on the motor was enough to "do it".
Jonesy
I am pretty much convinced now that it is the inductive kickback that
is causing the problem. The clipper motor is more akin to a solenoid
and I figured out that the washer is almost always tripping the GFCI
when a solenoid valve is turned off. In any case the tripping ONLY
occurs when the load is removed.
Eric
have you tried some snubbers?
Yeah, all that is about to arc out. Who knows, I might decide to shoot up the place. Oh wait, I am not on any psychotropic drugs, nor need them.
You know, those damn internal connections from the power cord are only like an inch or two apart, and you know how 120 volts can all the sudden arc across that.
Oh wait. It doesn't.
And of course the wet bar, oh wait, no wet bar. I guess I will have to put one in. It's nearly 10 feet to the kitchen. And aa small fridge, well those are always arcing over. Right ? Didn't that kill like thousands of people every year ?
No. I don't know enough about these things and how they work. I justOn 25/07/2018 7:10 AM, etpm@whidbey.com wrote:
On 24 Jul 2018 19:49:43 GMT, Allodoxaphobia
knock_yourself_out@example.net> wrote:
On Tue, 24 Jul 2018 03:02:48 -0700 (PDT), tabbypurr@gmail.com wrote:
On Monday, 23 July 2018 19:22:39 UTC+1, et...@whidbey.com wrote:
In my 10 year old home I am having trouble with a couple GFCI
receptacles. But I think the problem is probably with every one in the
house, as they are all the same age and brand. In the bathroom when I
turn off the hair clippers I use for beard trimming the GFCI almost
always trips. But only when the clippers are being turned off.
In the basement we have an twenty year old washing machine that we
kept to use in case the upstairs new washer needed repair, which has
ben more than once. When the washer changes cycles it will randomely
trip the GFCI. Like the upstairs GFCI it only happens when the load is
removed from the GFCI. For example, the water valve solenoids, when
switched off by the washer, will cause the GFCI to trip. Or when the
washer motor is turned off when it changes speed.
Do I need to buy better GFCI receptacles? Or is this just because
the things are generally so sensitive to arcing when a contact opens
that any brand will show the same behavior/
Thanks,
Eric
We had a thread on this very recently in sed. GFCIs are unbalanced at
relatively high frequencies, the result being they tend to trip on
arcing. Of course that doesn't rule out your GFCIs being faulty or
substandard, or your washing machine having N-E leakage.
In a previous residence I had an "outside" GFCI trip when using an
electrice lawn mower --- when the mower was plugged into the
still-coiled 75 foot extension cord (... about a 3 foot diameter coil).
Uncoil the extension cord and it ran Just Fine. The inductive kick of
turning on the motor was enough to "do it".
Jonesy
I am pretty much convinced now that it is the inductive kickback that
is causing the problem. The clipper motor is more akin to a solenoid
and I figured out that the washer is almost always tripping the GFCI
when a solenoid valve is turned off. In any case the tripping ONLY
occurs when the load is removed.
Eric
have you tried some snubbers?
All of our devices are damp-location rated, figuring it cannot hurt, and the premium is minimal.
On Wed, 25 Jul 2018 13:58:38 +0800, Rheilly Phoull
rheilly@bigslong.com> wrote:
On 25/07/2018 7:10 AM, etpm@whidbey.com wrote:
On 24 Jul 2018 19:49:43 GMT, Allodoxaphobia
knock_yourself_out@example.net> wrote:
On Tue, 24 Jul 2018 03:02:48 -0700 (PDT), tabbypurr wrote:
On Monday, 23 July 2018 19:22:39 UTC+1, et...@whidbey.com wrote:
In my 10 year old home I am having trouble with a couple GFCI
receptacles. But I think the problem is probably with every one in the
house, as they are all the same age and brand. In the bathroom when I
turn off the hair clippers I use for beard trimming the GFCI almost
always trips. But only when the clippers are being turned off.
In the basement we have an twenty year old washing machine that we
kept to use in case the upstairs new washer needed repair, which has
ben more than once. When the washer changes cycles it will randomely
trip the GFCI. Like the upstairs GFCI it only happens when the load is
removed from the GFCI. For example, the water valve solenoids, when
switched off by the washer, will cause the GFCI to trip. Or when the
washer motor is turned off when it changes speed.
Do I need to buy better GFCI receptacles? Or is this just because
the things are generally so sensitive to arcing when a contact opens
that any brand will show the same behavior/
Thanks,
Eric
We had a thread on this very recently in sed. GFCIs are unbalanced at
relatively high frequencies, the result being they tend to trip on
arcing. Of course that doesn't rule out your GFCIs being faulty or
substandard, or your washing machine having N-E leakage.
In a previous residence I had an "outside" GFCI trip when using an
electrice lawn mower --- when the mower was plugged into the
still-coiled 75 foot extension cord (... about a 3 foot diameter coil).
Uncoil the extension cord and it ran Just Fine. The inductive kick of
turning on the motor was enough to "do it".
Jonesy
I am pretty much convinced now that it is the inductive kickback that
is causing the problem. The clipper motor is more akin to a solenoid
and I figured out that the washer is almost always tripping the GFCI
when a solenoid valve is turned off. In any case the tripping ONLY
occurs when the load is removed.
Eric
have you tried some snubbers?
No. I don't know enough about these things and how they work. I just
wanted to find out why they were tripping. Now that it may be I have
the answer I'll try it and if new, higher quality GFCIs work then that
will be great and the question answered.
Eric
Snubbers are the obvious option to try. 0.1uF + 100R in series
absorbs hf content so the gfci doesn't see much of it.
On Wednesday, July 25, 2018 at 3:27:27 PM UTC-4, pf...@aol.com wrote:
We have established that you cannot read for content. No, we do not install GFCI devices throughout the house...
Unless the house is still under construction
My experience with Al is that a copper pigtail is required !
Use a wire nut with Al to Cu goop to keep from oxidizing.
Cu then goes to the GFCI or switch etc.
Snubbers are the obvious option to try. 0.1uF + 100R in series
absorbs hf content so the gfci doesn't see much of it.
And in case it isn't obvious, that series combination is across
the AC line. Not on the switched side of the load.
All of our devices are damp-location rated, figuring it cannot hurt, and the premium is minimal.
there is a good point.
I think there are GFI's that are calibrated for a little higher trip current.
Those might be worth a try.
On Wednesday, July 25, 2018 at 3:37:55 PM UTC-4, mako...@yahoo.com wrote:
All of our devices are damp-location rated, figuring it cannot hurt, and the premium is minimal.
there is a good point.
I think there are GFI's that are calibrated for a little higher trip current.
Those might be worth a try.
I guess GFI's can't be reset by just pushing a button, though. GFCI's can.