Toshiba TV29C90 problem; Image fades to black...

I have seen on some older Onkyo's that the laser will focus but if the
inside (limit) switch has not been actuated, will just sit there and spin.

That switch is also ok and working well.

Also, if somehow the disc rotation is backwards (...)

No, the direction is correct.

Speaking of the decoder IC, it could be suspect at
this point, especially if it's a CXD2500 type

Unfortunately it's one of those .
I think that this will be the player's epitaph. I'm not willing to try
and replace such an IC, provided it's still available.
Mark, thank you very much for your help and suggestions!

Cheers, Lasse

 

[Peter Hucker]

On Fri, 31 Oct 2008 00:25:13 -0000, bleachbot <bleachbot@httrack.com> wrote:

---nothing

Well you fucked that one up didn't you?


--
http://www.petersparrots.com http://www.insanevideoclips.com http://www.petersphotos.com

Confuscious say: "War doesn't determine who's right. War determines who's left."

 

On Sep 29, 11:40 pm, "Mark D. Zacharias" <nonse...@nonsense.net>
wrote:

daniellarse...@gmail.com> wrote in message

news:810f2921-4b83-4880-900a-3ad567cc7649@b1g2000hsg.googlegroups.com...

Hi,

Does anyone know how to reset a Sherwood RD 6118R AV Receiver?
Recently the surround channels have gone to 100% volume at all times
(except when muted), regardless of what the master volume is. Front
and centre are OK. Same behaviour in Dolby Digital and Pro Logic
modes.

Any help appreciated.
- Daniel

Only worked on one later model Sherwood, but it was a Denon built one, and
reset issues are quite common on those.

No reset procedure was given, but I was able to bleed off the backup cap and
it fixed the problem in my case.

Mark Z.

Thank you Mark. I couldn't figure out which was the backup cap, so I
left the unit unplugged from the mains, with the power switch "on" for
about a week. That reset the unit and fixed the fault.

- DL

 

[William Sommerwerck]

Thank you Mark. I couldn't figure out which was the backup cap, so I
left the unit unplugged from the mains, with the power switch "on" for
about a week. That reset the unit and fixed the fault.

Over this past 25 years, I've seen this problem with several items -- an NAD
TV, a Pioneer LD player, a Palm PDA, a Sony DVD player. The unit or "locks
up" or stops working altogether, and returns to normal operation either by
being turned off and left to sit for an indefinite/undefined period (which
can be a day, a week, or a month), or by having the plug pulled while it's
operating.

I call this "CMOS lockup", but that's only a guess as to what's actually
going on.

Question: Is it possible for an amplifier to get stuck at 110% volume?

 

[Engineer]

On Oct 23, 2:47 pm, JeffM <jef...@email.com> wrote:

Engineer wrote:
[...]advice on free or shareware software and other IT help?
I've not found a Usenet group that does this.

Here in the 21st Century,
learning to use a search engine is a useful skill:http://groups.google.com/groups/search?q=ingroup:freeware

I need to get the following software types[...]
1. Word Processor[...]Openoffice[...]

Yup.

But my wife still need a way to open obsolete Wordperfect files

http://www.google.com/search?q=convert+WordPerfect&num=100
Again, learning to use a search engine is a useful skill.

2. Spreadsheet (OpenOffice[...]
3. Presentation grahics ([like] Powerpoint[...]Openoffice[...]

Yup and yup.

3. Business card software recommendations
(a Google search brings up a lot of trial ones - which is best?)

You will find the Boolean NOT operator to be useful.http://www.google.com/search?q=Business.cards+GPL+-bootable+-CD+-Joom...

Anything that can retain the position of the stuff you put on the grid
will do for "page layout", no matter how small the "page".
Frankly, learning how to use a task-specific app for this seems
foolish.
OTOH, the general-purpose apps
OOo Draw, Inkscape, or Scribus (DTP) could do this.
All are GPL'd (gratis & libre).

4. IE for Internet (on XP CD)

While you're moving toward free,
you could get (gratis & libre) Firefox or SeaMonkey.
(AdBlock, FlashBlock, NoScript, etc.
make surfing MUCH less annoying.)

Getting a Free Software operating system
is something to think about as well.  (Dual-boot to start?)http://www.google.com/search?q=cache:CNeiS395cpgJ:https://shipit.kubu...

5. Email - all on Rogers-Yahoo webmail so no problem.

SeaMonkey or Thunderbird.
..and Gmail allows you to use your local client.

[...]is there a Windows XP forum[...]?
Roger

Puckdropper at dot wrote:
www.daniweb.com

That site appears to be for software/web developers.
I don't see a forum specific to any of the OP's topics.

There's a spot there for questions like yours,
and a whole bunch of people who are happy to answer them.

If that spot exists, it's not obvious.
A more specific link would have been nice.

FWIW, Office 2007 Student and Teacher Edition
has Word, Powerpoint, and Excel and is price at around $150.

That's $150 too much for commodity software apps.

In addition, I don't understand why people buy M$ products;
that money will be used AGAINST you
as Micros~1 purposely makes their products incompatible
--not only with competing products,
but **with it's own previous versions as well**
The MSFT attitude is
*Screw you if you don't buy into our perpetual-upgrade treadmill*.

It sounds like you make quite a bit of use of those types of programs,
so it's probably worth purchasing.

Disagree strongly.
The OP has already discovered that most non-vertical apps
are readily available as gratis offerings (free as in beer).
When you include the freedom of GPL,
Free Software (not just "freeware") is a no-brainer.http://www.google.com/search?q=cache:vYwHVQAGkr8J:en.wikipedia.org/wi...

If the OP hasn't discovered it yet, he will eventually find that
some documents generated with previous versions of M$ software
can't be opened with the current  version of M$'s software.
OTOH,
OpenOffice.org has a reputation for being able to open those files,
making it **more** M$-compatible than M$'s own apps
(depending on your definition of "compatible").[1]

OOo 3.0 (just released) also includes support for .docx, .xlsx, .pptx,
etc.
--MSFT's latest effort to (yet again) break compatibity.
.
.
[1]  A recent "update" to M$Office
sought to "cure" the problem of lousy backwards-compatibility
by disabling support for the old file formats.  8-|

Screw Microsoft.

Thanks for all the good replies! Support URL's noted.
Since the OP I have downloaded (into #2 PC, my wife's) OpenOffice v2.9
(I think) and it (WRITER) not only opens Wordperfect but CALC opens
Excel spreadsheets and IMPRESS opens PowerPoint presentations (I have
a few) - presentations can also be created, useful. BTW, I also
dumped the Norton suite from #2 PC as it seemed to be slowing things
down. I loaded the free Avast! Home Version - working well so far. I
enabled Windows firewall, too.
I already have OO v2.4 (I think) on my #1 PC used for business - so
I'll upgrade that to v2.9, or later, and stick to it for all bus.
apps. Virus/Spyware protection on #1 PC will stay as Norton since the
Avast! Home version is for only non-commercial use and I respect
that. Fortunately, #1 PC (a 3.0 GHZ P4) runs Norton well with no
glitches and Norton was "free" (sort of, it's in the rent!) from my
ISP, Roger-Yahoo.
Cheers,
Roger

 

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[Mark D. Zacharias]

<daniellarsennz@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:12586258-cdaf-4526-891a-0ca5a4f78c86@n33g2000pri.googlegroups.com...
On Sep 29, 11:40 pm, "Mark D. Zacharias" <nonse...@nonsense.net>
wrote:

daniellarse...@gmail.com> wrote in message

news:810f2921-4b83-4880-900a-3ad567cc7649@b1g2000hsg.googlegroups.com...

Hi,

Does anyone know how to reset a Sherwood RD 6118R AV Receiver?
Recently the surround channels have gone to 100% volume at all times
(except when muted), regardless of what the master volume is. Front
and centre are OK. Same behaviour in Dolby Digital and Pro Logic
modes.

Any help appreciated.
- Daniel

Only worked on one later model Sherwood, but it was a Denon built one, and
reset issues are quite common on those.

No reset procedure was given, but I was able to bleed off the backup cap
and
it fixed the problem in my case.

Mark Z.

Thank you Mark. I couldn't figure out which was the backup cap, so I
left the unit unplugged from the mains, with the power switch "on" for
about a week. That reset the unit and fixed the fault.

- DL

Glad that worked out for you!

Mark Z.

 

[Peter Hucker]

On Sat, 01 Nov 2008 23:30:17 -0000, William Sommerwerck <grizzledgeezer@comcast.net> wrote:

Thank you Mark. I couldn't figure out which was the backup cap, so I
left the unit unplugged from the mains, with the power switch "on" for
about a week. That reset the unit and fixed the fault.

Over this past 25 years, I've seen this problem with several items -- an NAD
TV, a Pioneer LD player, a Palm PDA, a Sony DVD player. The unit or "locks
up" or stops working altogether, and returns to normal operation either by
being turned off and left to sit for an indefinite/undefined period (which
can be a day, a week, or a month), or by having the plug pulled while it's
operating.

I call this "CMOS lockup", but that's only a guess as to what's actually
going on.

Question: Is it possible for an amplifier to get stuck at 110% volume?

Only if it's a Marshall amp.

--
http://www.petersparrots.com http://www.insanevideoclips.com http://www.petersphotos.com

British Rail Customer: "How much does it cost to Bath on the train?"
Operator: "If you can get your feet in the sink, then it's free".

 

On Oct 7, 8:36 pm, "Stacey Chuffo" <phsd-every...@promisesandiego.com>
wrote:

skipsw...@gmail.com> wrote in message

news:32ee3e4f-297c-4b03-b6ab-32be009bf0e8@e17g2000hsg.googlegroups.com...

Hi,

The Coax input on my Sony KV32S42 isn't working. I can watch DVDs by
connecting my DVD player to the S-video input but I get only snow when
I connect my VCR or my cable line to the Coax input. I'm hoping this
is something I can fix myself but I'm not at all knowledgeable about
TV repair so I need some direction.

Thanks.
S.

If you're not all that knowledgeable about TV repair then how the fuck do
you plan on fixing it yourself?

Thanks. Appreciate your highly intelligent reply. Extremely helpful.
Well worth your time and mine.

 

On Oct 5, 8:37 pm, b <reverend_rog...@yahoo.com> wrote:

skipsw...@gmail.com ha escrito:

Hi,

The Coax input on my Sony KV32S42 isn't working. I can watch DVDs by
connecting my DVD player to the S-video input but I get only snow when
I connect my VCR or my cable line to the Coax input. I'm hoping this
is something I can fix myself but I'm not at all knowledgeable about
TV repair so I need some direction.

Thanks.
S.

Have you tried going thru the tuning /channel search function?
have you checked the thing is set to UHF /VHF/cable reception (as
needed)?

Yup. I did try channel search and I triple-checked that the input on
the TV was set to Cable in the menu setup.

 

On Oct 6, 8:43 pm, "hr(bob) hofm...@att.net" <hrhofm...@att.net>
wrote:

On Oct 5, 8:37 pm, b <reverend_rog...@yahoo.com> wrote:





skipsw...@gmail.com ha escrito:

Hi,

The Coax input on my Sony KV32S42 isn't working. I can watch DVDs by
connecting my DVD player to the S-video input but I get only snow when
I connect my VCR or my cable line to the Coax input. I'm hoping this
is something I can fix myself but I'm not at all knowledgeable about
TV repair so I need some direction.

Thanks.
S.

Have you tried going thru the tuning /channel search function?
have you checked the thing is set to UHF /VHF/cable reception (as
needed)?

Is this something that used to work, or is it all new to you and you
don't know exactly how to hook things up??- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Yes, this is something that used to work fine. Just stopped working.

 

On Oct 7, 6:42 am, "William Sommerwerck" <grizzledgee...@comcast.net>
wrote:

The TV has to be set to the coax input, or you won't see anything.

The VCR and the TV have to be set to the same channel. VCRs with a coax
output should have a switch on the back to select channel 3 or 4.

I tried running the Cable directly to the Coax input on the TV and
through the VCR -- neither works, regardless of what channel the TV
and VCR are set to. I've tried both channel 3 and channel 4 and I've
confirmed that both the TV and VCR are set to the same channel.

Oddly, I can watch DVDs through the S-video input on my TV/RCA audio
inputs.

 

On Oct 7, 7:04 am, "Curtis Brown" <pr...@stripperweb.com> wrote:

"b" <reverend_rog...@yahoo.com> wrote in message

news:d90f593c-a312-47f3-a8cd-199794070f9b@m44g2000hsc.googlegroups.com...







skipsw...@gmail.com ha escrito:
Hi,

The Coax input on my Sony KV32S42 isn't working. I can watch DVDs by
connecting my DVD player to the S-video input but I get only snow when
I connect my VCR or my cable line to the Coax input. I'm hoping this
is something I can fix myself but I'm not at all knowledgeable about
TV repair so I need some direction.

Thanks.
S.

Have you tried going thru the tuning /channel search function?
have you checked the thing is set to UHF /VHF/cable reception (as
needed)?

Because if it was set to ANTENNA as opposed to cable, he would still be able
to watch his VHS tapes and the first 13 channels. It's obvious that the
tuner is not functioning correctly.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

I didn't try setting the TV to antenna. TV is in the basement so I
doubt I'll get much reception but I'll try this tonight.

 

[b]

On 22 oct, 13:58, b <reverend_rog...@yahoo.com> wrote:

I have a late 1980s low end vcr (Sanwa - also badged Lögik, Orion,
possibly Saisho etc) with an unusual problem. It came to me 'dead' -
with the 1.25A fuse in the power supply open (not black).
I replaced it and the thing seemed to work but soon I noticed that
when you stop the tape, the thing unlaces as usual, but the drum motor
does not switch off - it spins very fast, sounding like it's
'hunting'. The power/stby switch does not react either. If you put it
into play when this hunting whine is going on, you get a distorted pic
which clearly shows the drum's going too fast. So far i've yanked the
plug to avoid further damage. Obviously this i pretty worthless, I'm
just curious to see if anyone else recalls this problem and what
causes it.

-B

last night I had another look at this. I cleaned the mode switch and
no joy. it worked a short while, then once again again after pressing
stop, the drum kept spinning wildly and couldn't be stopped. Strange
thing was you could put it in and out of play (with a tearing fast
pic)..After about a minute the drum stopped - and since then ain't
come on again....looks like another for the scrapheap...

-B

 

[Marshall Price]

Arfa Daily wrote:

"Claude Hopper" <boobooililililil@roadrunner.com> wrote in message
news:K4KdnaQdINVA-mbVnZ2dnUVZ_trinZ2d@giganews.com...
I have been cutting power usage in my home. I have saved about 100 kwh a
month so far. I put power strips on all the vampire stuff like DVR, TV,
Stereo, DVD players, etc..

As I've commented on here before, you may come to regret that. Switch mode
power supplies do not like being fired from a cold start all the time. They
are designed these days with standby efficiency in mind, and the
manufacturers' choices of components, assume that they will be left running
continuously. Most either make use of a 'burst' mode that actually results
in a very low overall standby consumption, or have a separate section which
is just a tiny and very efficient standby supply. Standby modes often also
'mask' important housekeeping tasks, as well as being there to satisfy our
fundamental laziness ...

Most 'secret' power consumption comes from much more power-hungry devices
than these, such as fridges, freezers, central heating pumps, and so on, but
here's a question for you. Since the power and gas utility companies told us
that the 30% hikes in the retail prices of their products were due to the
wholesale cost to them being based on the price of oil, now that this has
come back down to a 5 year low at around $62 a barrel, why are the companies
not now re-cutting our bills by 30% ? Either their prices, and hence ours,
*are* based on the price of oil, or they're not. They can't have it both
ways.

Arfa




I hope you haven't made the mistake of supposing a 30% increase to be

reversed by a 30% decrease. Consider: Increasing a dollar by 50% gives
$1.50. Decreasing $1.50 by 50% gives $0.75. (Also, 30% of a large
number is more than 30% of a small number.)

--
Marshall Price of Miami
Known to Yahoo as d021317c

 

[Marshall Price]

Claude Hopper wrote:

Arfa Daily wrote:
"Claude Hopper" <boobooililililil@roadrunner.com> wrote in message
news:K4KdnaQdINVA-mbVnZ2dnUVZ_trinZ2d@giganews.com...
I have been cutting power usage in my home. I have saved about 100 kwh a
month so far. I put power strips on all the vampire stuff like DVR, TV,
Stereo, DVD players, etc..
As I've commented on here before, you may come to regret that. Switch mode
power supplies do not like being fired from a cold start all the time. They
are designed these days with standby efficiency in mind, and the
manufacturers' choices of components, assume that they will be left running
continuously. Most either make use of a 'burst' mode that actually results
in a very low overall standby consumption, or have a separate section which
is just a tiny and very efficient standby supply. Standby modes often also
'mask' important housekeeping tasks, as well as being there to satisfy our
fundamental laziness ...

Most 'secret' power consumption comes from much more power-hungry devices
than these, such as fridges, freezers, central heating pumps, and so on, but
here's a question for you. Since the power and gas utility companies told us
that the 30% hikes in the retail prices of their products were due to the
wholesale cost to them being based on the price of oil, now that this has
come back down to a 5 year low at around $62 a barrel, why are the companies
not now re-cutting our bills by 30% ? Either their prices, and hence ours,
*are* based on the price of oil, or they're not. They can't have it both
ways.

Arfa





I noticed that my DVR harddrive NEVER spins down even in standby. I can
hear it spin down when I hit the power strip off button. That should be
part of standby, powering down the HD. If their junk can't stand being
shut down and breaks they will just have to replace it. When I want
something off I mean off, not half off, not one quarter off, I MEAN OFF.

I'm disturbed by this sort of thing, too, but I have been for a long
time, I don't understand the issues, and I'm even more disturbed by
Microsoft's secretiveness.

I consider Microsoft's dreadful attitude towards communicating with the
public a disgrace. They seem to have little regard for English
composition and less for their own customers' satisfaction. Whatever
could be the matter with them?

Are they so proud of being the 800-pound gorilla that they can't stoop
to befriending the little guy? Are they so eager to sell expensive
books that they can't discuss issues of concern to us all plainly and
openly, like you and me? Do they regard their technology as something
which must be kept secret, and extend its scope to everything related to
computers?

They should be helping, not hurting, the outside world. They've already
forced thousands of technical geniuses into anonymity and bankruptcy for
the sake of their own dominance. Like the secretive guilds of the
Middle Ages, they challenge us - they require us - to break down the
barricades.


--
Marshall Price of Miami
Known to Yahoo as d021317c

 

[Marshall Price]

channing28270 wrote:

I love Carillons I have some questions about an old electronic
carillon unit I took a picture of at my Church that has both the
words Van Bergen and Maas-Rowe on it:
1. Is there anyone that an look at my picture I took that might know
something about the old electronic carillon unit?
2. I have an interest in sound I would love to hear what these songs
sound like on the Maas-Rowe Grand Symphony Carillon in a Jam Box even
though these songs may be recorded in mono mode:
1. How Great thou Art
2. Holy, Holy, Holy
3.Blessed Assurance
4. Christ the Lord is Risen today
Can someone help me hear these songs on the Maas-Rowe Grand Symphony
Carillon?
3. I would love to talk with someone that knows about electronic
carillons via e-mail and have some friends that know about electronic
carillons Is there people that know about electronic carillons that
would like to be my friend and would like to be an e-mail pen pal
also?

If you know the answers please e-mail me at

CHANNING28270@GMAIL.COM
CHANNING28105@LYCOS.COM
CHANCHAN79@KITTYMAIL.COM

MY MYSPACE PAGE IS: WWW.MYSPACE.COM/CHANNING28270
MY FACEBOOK PAGE IS UNDER: CHANNING ASHBAUGH

CHANNING
See http://www.foxtail.com or even better, subscribe to their daily

mailing, "The Mechanical Music Digest."

--
Marshall Price of Miami
Known to Yahoo as d021317c

 

[Brad]

Hi,

Here is an update, but TV is not repaired yet:

Note: TV chassis is L03.1UAA and I have SM.

The vertical deflection system uses discreet components.
There is no vertical amplifier IC, which is common in all other TVs
I have worked on. I replaced "2463" 100/50 and "2446" 470/16.
Both measured a loss of capacitance, but it made no improvement.
"2465" 10/160 tested very good, however I replaced it, but it didn't
fix the problem.

I tested the two output transistors out of circuit (AOK). I tested other
transistors in circuit. Also tested various components in the vertical
deflection circuits. Note: I originally checked solder joints and soldered
several joints that seem to lack good solder bond.

I used a Yoke tester and checked both windings individually
after I separated the windings at a terminal. Both windings read
"good", but one winding had a higher reading than the other. I
repeated the test incase of a poor test lead(s) connection, but the results
were the same!

Scoping the two inputs to the vertical amp, the "+drive" signal doesn't
match "-drive" waveform, although it's "inverted". The +drive signal is
"abnormal".
Brad

On Thu, 23 Oct 2008 11:42:33 GMT, Brad wrote:

Hi,

I bought the service manual and found out that AN7225N is not the
vertical IC.

If I repair this TV (in my spare time), I will let everyone know what
part(s) caused this problem.

Brad

On Thu, 23 Oct 2008 11:42:33 GMT, Brad wrote:

Hi,

I have a Philips TV model 20PT6245/37 (mfg 05/05) in my
service shop with a loss of vertical deflection. I do not have SM.

For a moment after the TV is turned on, there is some vertical deflection,
but it collapsed into a single horizontal line in the middle.

I checked solder joints at the vertical IC, resoldered them anyway, but
this had no effect. Note: I soldered other joints too. Flexing and tapping
on mother board has no effect.

I couldn't find pin out info on the vertical IC AN7225N on the
web so I could make additional tests.

Thanks in advance, Brad

Before you type your password, credit card number, etc.,
be sure there is no active keystroke logger (spyware) in your PC.

 

[BobH]

Daniel Rudy wrote:

Rotation was observed facing the motor. That last one I'm not sure
about...maybe I don't have enough power. But this gives me a few ideas
on power control. I'm thinking of placing a DPDT relay in series
between the armature and field windings for direction reversal, then use
a the standard PWM control from a microprocessor to control speed.
Plus, this will also protect the motor too in case any winding fails it
will open circuit.

I did some studying on controlling wound field DC motors with the
armature and the field windings in parallel and then driving the two
from a PWM source results in sort of an odd torque/speed curve that is
lacking in low speed torque. Running the field windings on a constant
voltage and controlling the armature voltage gives a flatter
torque/speed curve. Also, the adds that I remember seeing suggest that
the motor can be run on 36-48VDC.

I needed a place to attach encoders for closing the control loop and
found that the output shafts are fairly soft steel and drill and tap
very nicely. The unused side of the output shaft is exposed and flat,
making it an easy place to attach the encoders.

Good Luck,
BobH

 

[hr(bob) hofmann@att.net]

On Nov 6, 8:20 am, bpet...@verizon.net (Brad) wrote:

Hi,

     Here is an update, but TV is not repaired yet:

     Note:  TV chassis is L03.1UAA and I have SM.

     The vertical deflection system uses discreet components.
There is no vertical amplifier IC,  which is common in all other TVs
I have worked on.  I replaced "2463" 100/50 and "2446" 470/16.
Both measured a loss of capacitance, but it made no improvement.
"2465" 10/160 tested very good, however I replaced it, but it didn't
fix the problem.

     I tested the two output transistors out of circuit (AOK).  I tested other
transistors in circuit.  Also tested various components in the vertical
deflection circuits.   Note: I originally checked solder joints and soldered
several joints that seem to lack good solder bond.

     I used a Yoke tester and checked both windings individually
after I separated the windings at a terminal.   Both windings read
"good", but one winding had a  higher reading than the other.  I
repeated the test incase of a poor test lead(s) connection, but the results
were the same!

    Scoping the two inputs to the vertical amp,  the "+drive" signal doesn't
match "-drive" waveform,  although it's "inverted".  The +drive signal is
"abnormal".
                                Brad



On Thu, 23 Oct 2008 11:42:33 GMT, Brad wrote:
Hi,

    I bought the service manual and found out that AN7225N is not the
vertical IC.

    If I repair this TV (in my spare time),  I will let everyone know what
part(s) caused this problem.

                    Brad

On Thu, 23 Oct 2008 11:42:33 GMT,  Brad wrote:

Hi,

  I have a Philips TV model 20PT6245/37 (mfg 05/05) in my
service shop with a loss of vertical deflection.  I do not have SM.

 For a moment after the TV is turned on, there is some vertical deflection,
but it collapsed into a single horizontal line in the middle.

  I checked solder joints at the vertical IC, resoldered them anyway, but
this had no effect.  Note: I soldered other joints too.  Flexing and tapping
on mother board has no effect.

  I couldn't find pin out info on the vertical IC   AN7225N on the
web so I could make additional tests.

             Thanks in advance,  Brad

 Before you type your password, credit card number, etc.,
be sure there is no active keystroke logger (spyware) in your PC.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

If you have a scope, it and a dc voltmeter, you should be able to
check the voltages on the output transistors to make sure they are
biased correctly and then check the waveforms. If you don't see any
sawtooth at the output of the pair of output transistors, that's your
problem. If you do have a sawtooth there, then maybe the capactior
coupleing the output to the deflection coils is open/

Bob Hofmann