Toshiba TV29C90 problem; Image fades to black...

[operator jay]

"You" <you@shadow.orgs> wrote in message
news:you-D96DBC.09080227042008@netnews.worldnet.att.net...

In article <fv1at5128ml@news3.newsguy.com>,
phil-news-nospam@ipal.net
wrote:

There are two different flavors of 220/230/240 volts. Some places
have a
simple system with one wire hot and one wire grounded. Other
places have
a split system where the voltage is split in half to get
110/115/120 volts
relative to ground, by adding a additional "middle" conductor that
is the
grounded one.

Sonny, you need to LEARN the difference between Ground and
Neutral......
before you spout any further BS.......

What he wrote looks reasonable to me in terms of ground and neutral.
Neutral is the grounded conductor where I live. He does not say to
use a ground as a neutral, if that's what you're getting at. I can
only guess that that may be what you're getting at, you haven't really
said.

[trimmed sci.physics.electromag]

j

 

[operator jay]

"You" <you@shadow.orgs> wrote in message
news:you-D96DBC.09080227042008@netnews.worldnet.att.net...

In article <fv1at5128ml@news3.newsguy.com>,
phil-news-nospam@ipal.net
wrote:

There are two different flavors of 220/230/240 volts. Some places
have a
simple system with one wire hot and one wire grounded. Other
places have
a split system where the voltage is split in half to get
110/115/120 volts
relative to ground, by adding a additional "middle" conductor that
is the
grounded one.

Sonny, you need to LEARN the difference between Ground and
Neutral......
before you spout any further BS.......

What he wrote looks reasonable to me in terms of ground and neutral.
Neutral is the grounded conductor where I live. He does not say to
use a ground as a neutral, if that's what you're getting at. I can
only guess that that may be what you're getting at, you haven't really
said.

[trimmed sci.physics.electromag]

j

 

[James Sweet]

"Wiebe Cazemier" <wiebe@halfgaar.net> wrote in message
news:dba16$48146d43$d4cc82be$18933@cache6.tilbu1.nb.home.nl...

On Saturday 26 April 2008 19:40, bz wrote:

So, what is different about 'just turned on'?
Components are cool.
High transient currents occur.

Look for places that those can make a difference.

(snip)

From the symptoms, I would start by looking at the PSU outputs.
Troubleshoot by 'divide and conquer'.

Divide the device logically into two halves, and localize the problem to
one of the two.

Continue until you reach the bad part.

I've been reading the repair faq at
http://www.repairfaq.org/sam/crtfaq.htm. At
some point it says this:

Occasionally, small conductive flakes or whiskers present since the day of
manufacture manage to make their way into a location where they short out
adjacent elements in the CRT electron guns. Symptoms may be intermittent
or
only show up when the TV or monitor is cold or warm or in-between. Some
possible locations are listed below:

One of them is: Heater to cathode (H-K). The cathode for the affected gun
will
be pulled to the heater (filament) bias voltage - most often 0 V (signal
ground). In this case, one color will be full on with retrace lines. Where
the
heater is biased at some other voltage, other symptoms are possible like
reduced brightness and/or contrast for that color. This is probably the
most
common location for a short to occur.

That appears to be exactly what's happening. The blue gun is turned on
completely, also showing the retrace lines. Also, remember that I have
been
able to reproduce the fault a couple of times by tapping the cathode
assembly.

I will try the "put the monitor on it's face and try tapping it to
dislodge the
short" method first. If it works, it would be a very low tech, but
effective
solution

The "blow out the short with a capacitor" method also seems fun, but also
a
little risky

Don't be so quick to condemn the CRT, sure it could be at fault, but
eliminate the external stuff first! A bad connection on the neck board can
just as easily cause the same symptom.

 

In alt.engineering.electrical operator jay <none@none.none> wrote:
|
| "You" <you@shadow.orgs> wrote in message
| news:you-D96DBC.09080227042008@netnews.worldnet.att.net...
|> In article <fv1at5128ml@news3.newsguy.com>,
|> phil-news-nospam@ipal.net
|> wrote:
|>
|>> There are two different flavors of 220/230/240 volts. Some places
|>> have a
|>> simple system with one wire hot and one wire grounded. Other
|>> places have
|>> a split system where the voltage is split in half to get
|>> 110/115/120 volts
|>> relative to ground, by adding a additional "middle" conductor that
|>> is the
|>> grounded one.
|>
|> Sonny, you need to LEARN the difference between Ground and
|> Neutral......
|> before you spout any further BS.......
|
| What he wrote looks reasonable to me in terms of ground and neutral.
| Neutral is the grounded conductor where I live. He does not say to
| use a ground as a neutral, if that's what you're getting at. I can
| only guess that that may be what you're getting at, you haven't really
| said.

He might be one of those "knows just enough to be really dangerous" people
on the net. I didn't even mention "neutral". My intent was to explain it
in a simpler way for someone to just understand the basic difference. The
term "middle" was to convey a little more information than "neutral" would
have ... for the targeted audience.

There were two reasons Edison used a split system. One was to get the
advantage of less voltage drop and/or longer wires. The other was to run
the light bulbs on a lower voltage, which he knew makes them more reliable.

If he had not been fixated on DC, and had simply accepted AC early on, he
might well have discovered that an even lower voltage made the bulbs even
more reliable, and that a step down transformer at each building would have
done the job reliably, and also allow him to distribute at a higher voltage.
For example, he could have distributed at 600 volts and stepped down to 30
volts inside each building (maybe on a floor by floor basis). OTOH, he could
have run a DC motor-generator to get a lower voltage, too (though it would
have been less reliable than a transformer on AC). Had the light bulb voltage
issue not been a factor, he might well have simply run a straight 2-wire 220
volt system.

--
|WARNING: Due to extreme spam, I no longer see any articles originating from |
| Google Groups. If you want your postings to be seen by more readers |
| you will need to find a different place to post on Usenet. |
| Phil Howard KA9WGN (email for humans: first name in lower case at ipal.net) |

 

In alt.engineering.electrical Arfa Daily <arfa.daily@ntlworld.com> wrote:
|
| "jakdedert" <jakdedert@bellsouth.net> wrote in message
| news:89RQj.52246$r76.50400@bignews8.bellsouth.net...
|> Jamie wrote:
|>> hr(bob) hofmann@att.net wrote:
|>>
|>>> On Apr 26, 6:14 pm, Jamie
|>>> <jamie_ka1lpa_not_valid_after_ka1l...@charter.net> wrote:
|>>>
|>>>> Deodiaus wrote:
|>>>>
|>>>>> I have a broken pool motor [magnetek y56y] which will cost a bundle to
|>>>>> fix
|>>>>> or repair.
|>>>>> While doing a search on the web, I found the same model (really cheap)
|>>>>> but
|>>>>> wired for 280V, instead of the 230 V load that my wiring is supplies.
|>>>>> Now, I was thinking of buying the cheap 280V model and installing it
|>>>>> instead. Aside from rotating at a different speed and
|>>>>> maybe some power inefficiencies, are there any other drawbacks of
|>>>>> using the 280V model
|>>>>> instead?
|>>>>
|>>>> are you sure it isn't 208 ?
|>>>>
|>>>> --http://webpages.charter.net/jamie_5"
|>>>
|>>>
|>>> I'd be suspicious that the 280V was a misreading somehow of 230V.
|>> that sounds more plausible.
|>>
|> I'm a little confused about a 230 volt circuit. In what part of the world
|> does the utility supply 230v?
|>
|> jak
|
| In theory, it's 230 on a single phase - neutral circuit here in the UK now,
| but in practice, it's actually nearer the previously accepted 240v for the
| most part ...

Is the grounded conductor in a 2-wire 230/240 volt system fed to each home
referred to as "neutral" even in UK?

--
|WARNING: Due to extreme spam, I no longer see any articles originating from |
| Google Groups. If you want your postings to be seen by more readers |
| you will need to find a different place to post on Usenet. |
| Phil Howard KA9WGN (email for humans: first name in lower case at ipal.net) |

 

In alt.engineering.electrical James Sweet <jamessweet@hotmail.com> wrote:
|
|
| "Jamie" <jamie_ka1lpa_not_valid_after_ka1lpa_@charter.net> wrote in message
| news:F_OQj.1657$F13.1155@newsfe07.lga...
|> hr(bob) hofmann@att.net wrote:
|>
|>> On Apr 26, 6:14 pm, Jamie
|>> <jamie_ka1lpa_not_valid_after_ka1l...@charter.net> wrote:
|>>
|>>>Deodiaus wrote:
|>>>
|>>>>I have a broken pool motor [magnetek y56y] which will cost a bundle to
|>>>>fix
|>>>>or repair.
|>>>>While doing a search on the web, I found the same model (really cheap)
|>>>>but
|>>>>wired for 280V, instead of the 230 V load that my wiring is supplies.
|>>>>Now, I was thinking of buying the cheap 280V model and installing it
|>>>>instead. Aside from rotating at a different speed and
|>>>>maybe some power inefficiencies, are there any other drawbacks of
|>>>>using the 280V model
|>>>>instead?
|>>>
|>>> are you sure it isn't 208 ?
|>>>
|>>>--http://webpages.charter.net/jamie_5"
|>>
|>>
|>> I'd be suspicious that the 280V was a misreading somehow of 230V.
|> that sounds more plausible.
|>
|>
|
|
| Misreading of 208V undoubtably, 208 is very common in commercial buildings,
| that and 277.

And where you have 277 you almost certainly have 480. But I suppose it is
possible to have 277 alone (is better to use than 120 for lots of fluorescent
lighting) or maybe even a 554/277 Edison style single phase split system,
where three phase distribution is not available and the higher voltage is
desirable for large areas of commercial lighting.

--
|WARNING: Due to extreme spam, I no longer see any articles originating from |
| Google Groups. If you want your postings to be seen by more readers |
| you will need to find a different place to post on Usenet. |
| Phil Howard KA9WGN (email for humans: first name in lower case at ipal.net) |

 

[charles]

In article <fv2ip2411fm@news4.newsguy.com>,
<phil-news-nospam@ipal.net> wrote:

Is the grounded conductor in a 2-wire 230/240 volt system fed to each home
referred to as "neutral" even in UK?

Yes. - but where is it grounded. Formerly it was grounded only at the
star (centre) point of the local transformer, but more recently is it being
grounded (again) at the domestic intake point.

--
From KT24 - in "Leafy Surrey"

Using a RISC OS computer running v5.11

 

[dBc]

Greetings tnom..

Regarding:
"Will get to the trace side of board tomorrow and hopefully will
just have to re-solder the diode."

Granted, this is unrelated, but while you've got the PC board out
on the bench, IF you've got an ESR checker, you might want to
check any of the nearby aluminum polarized electrolytics,
especially after 10 years of heating and cooling. Reason being,
it could save you some time getting back into the set to the same
board if a electrolytic starts becoming intermittent (or fails
completely) in a not too distant future. You and I both know Mr.
Murphy and his Laws all too well!

At least something to consider..

Cheers,
Mr. Mentor



<tnom@mucks.net> wrote in message
news:89rv04dph990ugbsa704qds3u2u311feap@4ax.com...
| On Wed, 23 Apr 2008 12:10:52 -0400, tnom@mucks.net wrote:
|
| >I have a 10 year old 32" Magnavox that pincushions
intermittently.
| >
| >If you smack the housing it usually has an effect on the
condition so
| >I suspect a connector or other hardware problem.
| >
| >Before I actually tackle taking this 200 pound TV apart I
thought I'd
| >ask for specific locations that may be suspect in the
horizontal sweep
| >section of the TV. Any suggestions?
|
|
| Follow up:
|
| Moved the heavy TV to a work bench and removed the cover.
| Very dusty. Vacuumed as much as possible. Will blow off the
rest
| outside tomorrow. Prodded with fiberglass rod and found a
sensitive
| area of the main board. Turned lights off and could just see a
very
| weak spark that seemed to correspond to the intermittent
| pincushioning. The spark emanates from a hole in the circuit
board
| where a diode lead goes through to the trace side. The diode is
within
| the horizontal sweep section. Will get to the trace side of
board
| tomorrow and hopefully will just have to re-solder the diode.
|
| I love cheap fixes. To bad I scratched the heavy duty TV stand
in the
| process of trying to move the beast.

 

[dBc]

Greetings tnom..

Regarding:
"Will get to the trace side of board tomorrow and hopefully will
just have to re-solder the diode."

Granted, this is unrelated, but while you've got the PC board out
on the bench, IF you've got an ESR checker, you might want to
check any of the nearby aluminum polarized electrolytics,
especially after 10 years of heating and cooling. Reason being,
it could save you some time getting back into the set to the same
board if a electrolytic starts becoming intermittent (or fails
completely) in a not too distant future. You and I both know Mr.
Murphy and his Laws all too well!

At least something to consider..

Cheers,
Mr. Mentor



<tnom@mucks.net> wrote in message
news:89rv04dph990ugbsa704qds3u2u311feap@4ax.com...
| On Wed, 23 Apr 2008 12:10:52 -0400, tnom@mucks.net wrote:
|
| >I have a 10 year old 32" Magnavox that pincushions
intermittently.
| >
| >If you smack the housing it usually has an effect on the
condition so
| >I suspect a connector or other hardware problem.
| >
| >Before I actually tackle taking this 200 pound TV apart I
thought I'd
| >ask for specific locations that may be suspect in the
horizontal sweep
| >section of the TV. Any suggestions?
|
|
| Follow up:
|
| Moved the heavy TV to a work bench and removed the cover.
| Very dusty. Vacuumed as much as possible. Will blow off the
rest
| outside tomorrow. Prodded with fiberglass rod and found a
sensitive
| area of the main board. Turned lights off and could just see a
very
| weak spark that seemed to correspond to the intermittent
| pincushioning. The spark emanates from a hole in the circuit
board
| where a diode lead goes through to the trace side. The diode is
within
| the horizontal sweep section. Will get to the trace side of
board
| tomorrow and hopefully will just have to re-solder the diode.
|
| I love cheap fixes. To bad I scratched the heavy duty TV stand
in the
| process of trying to move the beast.

 

[§ńühw¤Łf]

Baron <baron.nospam@linuxmainiac.nospam.net> clouded the waters of pure thought with:

§ùßhw¤£f wrote:

On Sat, 26 Apr 2008 19:34:28 +0100
"Dr.Hal0nf1rÂŁ$" <femail@nospam.kustomkomputa.co.uk.invalid> wrote:

§ùßhw¤£f wrote:
On Fri, 25 Apr 2008 17:46:44 +0100
"Dr.Hal0nf1rÂŁ$" <femail@nospam.kustomkomputa.co.uk.invalid> wrote:

§ùßhw¤£f wrote:
Dr.Hal0nf1rÂŁ$ <femail@nospam.kustomkomputa.co.uk.invalid
wrote<PoednY_Ict90aY3VRVnyiwA@bt.com>:

§nßhwÜlf wrote:
"Dr.Hal0nf1r$" <femail@nospam.kustomkomputa.co.uk.invalid
clouded the waters of pure thought with:
§ùßhw¤£f wrote:
On Wed, 23 Apr 2008 22:19:58 +0100
"Dr.Hal0nf1rÂŁ$" <femail@nospam.kustomkomputa.co.uk.invalid
wrote:

§ùßhw¤£f wrote:
On Tue, 22 Apr 2008 20:43:07 +0100
"Dr.Hal0nf1rÂŁ$" <femail@nospam.kustomkomputa.co.uk.invalid
wrote:

§ùßhw¤£f wrote:
On Mon, 21 Apr 2008 23:32:32 +0100
"Dr.Hal0nf1rÂŁ$"
femail@nospam.kustomkomputa.co.uk.invalid> wrote:

§ùßhw¤£f wrote:
On Sun, 20 Apr 2008 22:15:06 +0100
"Dr.Hal0nf1rÂŁ$"
femail@nospam.kustomkomputa.co.uk.invalid> wrote:

§ùßhw¤£f wrote:
On Sat, 19 Apr 2008 15:34:16 -0700
Aratzio <a6ahlyv02@sneakemail.com> wrote:

On Sat, 19 Apr 2008 16:09:53 -0500, in the land of
alt.usenet.kooks, snuhwolf@netscape.net (§ùßhw¤£f)
got double secret probation for writing:

Aratzio <a6ahlyv02@sneakemail.com> clouded the
waters of pure thought with:
On Sat, 19 Apr 2008 09:01:56 -0700, in the land of
alt.usenet.kooks, §ùßhw¤£f <snuhwolf@netscape.net
got double secret probation for writing:

On Sat, 19 Apr 2008 13:35:53 +1000
"Kadaitcha Man" <nospam.nospam.nospam@gmail.com
wrote:

"Aratzio" <a6ahlyv02@sneakemail.com> wrote in
message

news:9opi0456deigk7ihd4bq4mq3u9mar9tha3@4ax.com...
On Sat, 19 Apr 2008 13:26:03 +1000, in the land
of alt.usenet.kooks, "Kadaitcha Man"
nospam.nospam.nospam@gmail.com> got double
secret probation for writing:

"Butch Haynes" <butch@huntsville> wrote in
message

news:zbmdnUfjYIjDTZXVnZ2dnUVZ_gWdnZ2d@comcast.com...
radiant_x@outgun.com> wrote in message
news:293e3140-e027-496c-89d8-
27906e8991f7@t54g2000hsg.googlegroups.com...

I recently installed a DVD drive into my PC.
(2 days ago.) Since then, I get spontaneous
power loss periodically - sometimes seconds
after booting, other times after hours of
operation. I've tried replacing the power
supply, and I've tried removing all my
hardware (other than RAM), so I'm thinking
it must be motherboard related.

Unplug/replug all power and data connections.
That way, the errant loose one will be fixed
and your problem will be resolved.

BWAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA!

Tech support by feng shui.

"I've tried removing all my hardware(other than
RAM)"

Do none of them understand what that entails?


None of them understand anything.

I go toetally on into-ition.
Just do what feels good for a few hours...take
out a few cables...fondle them...blow out the
dust bunnies...listen to the Grateful Dead live
at Winterland for inspiration. Drink another
beer... Change a bunch of jumpers on the Mobo at
random. Leave shit scattered around on yer
workbench and wander away. Watch cartoons for
another hour... Come back and put it back
together. Holy Shit! Now it works.
Thats how I do it anyway.
FYI
HTH

Dunno why you geeks muck about with all that crap.

I take em out to the back 40, prop em against the
side of the gully and show them my Springfield
30-06.

BLINK
BLINK
OMG! I would never shoot a poor defenceless
computer!

They always work after that.

I assume you miss...

Works good with the employees, wife and kids too.

Note to self: dont work for 'Ratz.

Never had need to actually fire the damn thing.

Interesting. So you say that pc's respond to threats
of annihilation? I've got a sledge hammer laying
about... Will it solve my booting problems?

Try steel toe caps.

That didnt help at all.

You didn't kick it hard enough.

Now it wont turn on at all.
You owe me a new computer.

You weren't supposed to kick the on/off switch; especially
with steel toe caps!

I kicked the po\/\/3r supp1y.
Smokin!

Now replace the PSU and discover that the old one was the
cause of the original fault, and now the computer works
perfectly - Problem solved.

I smoked the rest. Put it in a pipe and smoked it.
I saw ones & zeros for like six hours man!

RS232/i386 wacky backy! Cool.

It was toxic though so I died and now I'm posting from
beyond the grave.

Free ghost image included too: There's value for money!

Norton Ghost haunts my house.

If you have an image of your house on the second drive it makes
you look much more wealthy.

I repartitioned it to give myself more rooms!

ROHS compliant? Recycled houses could soon be all the rage with the
current world financial slump.

Without mining g00gle for a link...I'll mention that theres a movement
in the US to "take over" abandoned houses in inner cities where the
people just fix it up and hope no one notices.

--
http://www.alternet.org/healthwellness/81781

Squatters have been doing that in the UK for years ! Its very difficult
to get them out !

Release the hounds Smithers...

Thats why they board them up with steel sheets
nowadays.

And aluminum comforters!

--
www.alternet.org

 

[§ńühw¤Łf]

Baron <baron.nospam@linuxmainiac.nospam.net> clouded the waters of pure thought with:

§ùßhw¤£f wrote:

On Sat, 26 Apr 2008 19:34:28 +0100
"Dr.Hal0nf1rÂŁ$" <femail@nospam.kustomkomputa.co.uk.invalid> wrote:

§ùßhw¤£f wrote:
On Fri, 25 Apr 2008 17:46:44 +0100
"Dr.Hal0nf1rÂŁ$" <femail@nospam.kustomkomputa.co.uk.invalid> wrote:

§ùßhw¤£f wrote:
Dr.Hal0nf1rÂŁ$ <femail@nospam.kustomkomputa.co.uk.invalid
wrote<PoednY_Ict90aY3VRVnyiwA@bt.com>:

§nßhwÜlf wrote:
"Dr.Hal0nf1r$" <femail@nospam.kustomkomputa.co.uk.invalid
clouded the waters of pure thought with:
§ùßhw¤£f wrote:
On Wed, 23 Apr 2008 22:19:58 +0100
"Dr.Hal0nf1rÂŁ$" <femail@nospam.kustomkomputa.co.uk.invalid
wrote:

§ùßhw¤£f wrote:
On Tue, 22 Apr 2008 20:43:07 +0100
"Dr.Hal0nf1rÂŁ$" <femail@nospam.kustomkomputa.co.uk.invalid
wrote:

§ùßhw¤£f wrote:
On Mon, 21 Apr 2008 23:32:32 +0100
"Dr.Hal0nf1rÂŁ$"
femail@nospam.kustomkomputa.co.uk.invalid> wrote:

§ùßhw¤£f wrote:
On Sun, 20 Apr 2008 22:15:06 +0100
"Dr.Hal0nf1rÂŁ$"
femail@nospam.kustomkomputa.co.uk.invalid> wrote:

§ùßhw¤£f wrote:
On Sat, 19 Apr 2008 15:34:16 -0700
Aratzio <a6ahlyv02@sneakemail.com> wrote:

On Sat, 19 Apr 2008 16:09:53 -0500, in the land of
alt.usenet.kooks, snuhwolf@netscape.net (§ùßhw¤£f)
got double secret probation for writing:

Aratzio <a6ahlyv02@sneakemail.com> clouded the
waters of pure thought with:
On Sat, 19 Apr 2008 09:01:56 -0700, in the land of
alt.usenet.kooks, §ùßhw¤£f <snuhwolf@netscape.net
got double secret probation for writing:

On Sat, 19 Apr 2008 13:35:53 +1000
"Kadaitcha Man" <nospam.nospam.nospam@gmail.com
wrote:

"Aratzio" <a6ahlyv02@sneakemail.com> wrote in
message

news:9opi0456deigk7ihd4bq4mq3u9mar9tha3@4ax.com...
On Sat, 19 Apr 2008 13:26:03 +1000, in the land
of alt.usenet.kooks, "Kadaitcha Man"
nospam.nospam.nospam@gmail.com> got double
secret probation for writing:

"Butch Haynes" <butch@huntsville> wrote in
message

news:zbmdnUfjYIjDTZXVnZ2dnUVZ_gWdnZ2d@comcast.com...
radiant_x@outgun.com> wrote in message
news:293e3140-e027-496c-89d8-
27906e8991f7@t54g2000hsg.googlegroups.com...

I recently installed a DVD drive into my PC.
(2 days ago.) Since then, I get spontaneous
power loss periodically - sometimes seconds
after booting, other times after hours of
operation. I've tried replacing the power
supply, and I've tried removing all my
hardware (other than RAM), so I'm thinking
it must be motherboard related.

Unplug/replug all power and data connections.
That way, the errant loose one will be fixed
and your problem will be resolved.

BWAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA!

Tech support by feng shui.

"I've tried removing all my hardware(other than
RAM)"

Do none of them understand what that entails?


None of them understand anything.

I go toetally on into-ition.
Just do what feels good for a few hours...take
out a few cables...fondle them...blow out the
dust bunnies...listen to the Grateful Dead live
at Winterland for inspiration. Drink another
beer... Change a bunch of jumpers on the Mobo at
random. Leave shit scattered around on yer
workbench and wander away. Watch cartoons for
another hour... Come back and put it back
together. Holy Shit! Now it works.
Thats how I do it anyway.
FYI
HTH

Dunno why you geeks muck about with all that crap.

I take em out to the back 40, prop em against the
side of the gully and show them my Springfield
30-06.

BLINK
BLINK
OMG! I would never shoot a poor defenceless
computer!

They always work after that.

I assume you miss...

Works good with the employees, wife and kids too.

Note to self: dont work for 'Ratz.

Never had need to actually fire the damn thing.

Interesting. So you say that pc's respond to threats
of annihilation? I've got a sledge hammer laying
about... Will it solve my booting problems?

Try steel toe caps.

That didnt help at all.

You didn't kick it hard enough.

Now it wont turn on at all.
You owe me a new computer.

You weren't supposed to kick the on/off switch; especially
with steel toe caps!

I kicked the po\/\/3r supp1y.
Smokin!

Now replace the PSU and discover that the old one was the
cause of the original fault, and now the computer works
perfectly - Problem solved.

I smoked the rest. Put it in a pipe and smoked it.
I saw ones & zeros for like six hours man!

RS232/i386 wacky backy! Cool.

It was toxic though so I died and now I'm posting from
beyond the grave.

Free ghost image included too: There's value for money!

Norton Ghost haunts my house.

If you have an image of your house on the second drive it makes
you look much more wealthy.

I repartitioned it to give myself more rooms!

ROHS compliant? Recycled houses could soon be all the rage with the
current world financial slump.

Without mining g00gle for a link...I'll mention that theres a movement
in the US to "take over" abandoned houses in inner cities where the
people just fix it up and hope no one notices.

--
http://www.alternet.org/healthwellness/81781

Squatters have been doing that in the UK for years ! Its very difficult
to get them out !

Release the hounds Smithers...

Thats why they board them up with steel sheets
nowadays.

And aluminum comforters!

--
www.alternet.org

 

[Arfa Daily]

<phil-news-nospam@ipal.net> wrote in message
news:fv2ip2411fm@news4.newsguy.com...

In alt.engineering.electrical Arfa Daily <arfa.daily@ntlworld.com> wrote:
|
| "jakdedert" <jakdedert@bellsouth.net> wrote in message
| news:89RQj.52246$r76.50400@bignews8.bellsouth.net...
|> Jamie wrote:
|>> hr(bob) hofmann@att.net wrote:
|
|>>> On Apr 26, 6:14 pm, Jamie
|>>> <jamie_ka1lpa_not_valid_after_ka1l...@charter.net> wrote:
|
|>>>> Deodiaus wrote:
|
|>>>>> I have a broken pool motor [magnetek y56y] which will cost a bundle
to
|>>>>> fix
|>>>>> or repair.
|>>>>> While doing a search on the web, I found the same model (really
cheap)
|>>>>> but
|>>>>> wired for 280V, instead of the 230 V load that my wiring is
supplies.
|>>>>> Now, I was thinking of buying the cheap 280V model and installing
it
|>>>>> instead. Aside from rotating at a different speed and
|>>>>> maybe some power inefficiencies, are there any other drawbacks of
|>>>>> using the 280V model
|>>>>> instead?
|
|>>>> are you sure it isn't 208 ?
|
|>>>> --http://webpages.charter.net/jamie_5"
|
|
|>>> I'd be suspicious that the 280V was a misreading somehow of 230V.
|>> that sounds more plausible.
|
|> I'm a little confused about a 230 volt circuit. In what part of the
world
|> does the utility supply 230v?
|
|> jak
|
| In theory, it's 230 on a single phase - neutral circuit here in the UK
now,
| but in practice, it's actually nearer the previously accepted 240v for
the
| most part ...

Is the grounded conductor in a 2-wire 230/240 volt system fed to each home
referred to as "neutral" even in UK?

One common neutral that is grounded back at the nearest transformer
substation, and three phases, fed singly to homes in a reasonably 'balanced'
way (loading-wise). So one side of the street may be fed from one phase, and
the other side of the street from a different phase, then further up the
street, some more houses connected to the remaining phase and so on. Each
house also has a protective ground connection. Generally, no 'pole pigs'
except in rural areas. For the most part, each collection of several hundred
houses, are connected underground to a small building containing 3 phase
transformers. I think that the input to these stations is around 11kV, also
underground. The 'hot' side of the supply is usually known as "live" in the
UK, but is sometimes also known as "phase".

I'm not an electrical engineer, but that's pretty much the basis of the UK
domestic distribution system. Commercial premises usually have a full three
phase plus neutral connection to the network.

Arfa

 

[Arfa Daily]

<phil-news-nospam@ipal.net> wrote in message
news:fv2ip2411fm@news4.newsguy.com...

In alt.engineering.electrical Arfa Daily <arfa.daily@ntlworld.com> wrote:
|
| "jakdedert" <jakdedert@bellsouth.net> wrote in message
| news:89RQj.52246$r76.50400@bignews8.bellsouth.net...
|> Jamie wrote:
|>> hr(bob) hofmann@att.net wrote:
|
|>>> On Apr 26, 6:14 pm, Jamie
|>>> <jamie_ka1lpa_not_valid_after_ka1l...@charter.net> wrote:
|
|>>>> Deodiaus wrote:
|
|>>>>> I have a broken pool motor [magnetek y56y] which will cost a bundle
to
|>>>>> fix
|>>>>> or repair.
|>>>>> While doing a search on the web, I found the same model (really
cheap)
|>>>>> but
|>>>>> wired for 280V, instead of the 230 V load that my wiring is
supplies.
|>>>>> Now, I was thinking of buying the cheap 280V model and installing
it
|>>>>> instead. Aside from rotating at a different speed and
|>>>>> maybe some power inefficiencies, are there any other drawbacks of
|>>>>> using the 280V model
|>>>>> instead?
|
|>>>> are you sure it isn't 208 ?
|
|>>>> --http://webpages.charter.net/jamie_5"
|
|
|>>> I'd be suspicious that the 280V was a misreading somehow of 230V.
|>> that sounds more plausible.
|
|> I'm a little confused about a 230 volt circuit. In what part of the
world
|> does the utility supply 230v?
|
|> jak
|
| In theory, it's 230 on a single phase - neutral circuit here in the UK
now,
| but in practice, it's actually nearer the previously accepted 240v for
the
| most part ...

Is the grounded conductor in a 2-wire 230/240 volt system fed to each home
referred to as "neutral" even in UK?

One common neutral that is grounded back at the nearest transformer
substation, and three phases, fed singly to homes in a reasonably 'balanced'
way (loading-wise). So one side of the street may be fed from one phase, and
the other side of the street from a different phase, then further up the
street, some more houses connected to the remaining phase and so on. Each
house also has a protective ground connection. Generally, no 'pole pigs'
except in rural areas. For the most part, each collection of several hundred
houses, are connected underground to a small building containing 3 phase
transformers. I think that the input to these stations is around 11kV, also
underground. The 'hot' side of the supply is usually known as "live" in the
UK, but is sometimes also known as "phase".

I'm not an electrical engineer, but that's pretty much the basis of the UK
domestic distribution system. Commercial premises usually have a full three
phase plus neutral connection to the network.

Arfa

 

[Michael Kennedy]

<phil-news-nospam@ipal.net> wrote in message
news:fv2imt311fm@news4.newsguy.com...

In alt.engineering.electrical operator jay <none@none.none> wrote:
|
| "You" <you@shadow.orgs> wrote in message
| news:you-D96DBC.09080227042008@netnews.worldnet.att.net...
|> In article <fv1at5128ml@news3.newsguy.com>,
|> phil-news-nospam@ipal.net
|> wrote:
|
|>> There are two different flavors of 220/230/240 volts. Some places
|>> have a
|>> simple system with one wire hot and one wire grounded. Other
|>> places have
|>> a split system where the voltage is split in half to get
|>> 110/115/120 volts
|>> relative to ground, by adding a additional "middle" conductor that
|>> is the
|>> grounded one.
|
|> Sonny, you need to LEARN the difference between Ground and
|> Neutral......
|> before you spout any further BS.......
|
| What he wrote looks reasonable to me in terms of ground and neutral.
| Neutral is the grounded conductor where I live. He does not say to
| use a ground as a neutral, if that's what you're getting at. I can
| only guess that that may be what you're getting at, you haven't really
| said.

He might be one of those "knows just enough to be really dangerous" people
on the net. I didn't even mention "neutral". My intent was to explain it
in a simpler way for someone to just understand the basic difference. The
term "middle" was to convey a little more information than "neutral" would
SNIP

Well, I understood what he meant, but maybe I took it the wrong way. When he
said middle conudctor I was thinking the center lug on the transformer which
is grounded and used as the neutral.

Mike

 

[Michael Kennedy]

<phil-news-nospam@ipal.net> wrote in message
news:fv2imt311fm@news4.newsguy.com...

In alt.engineering.electrical operator jay <none@none.none> wrote:
|
| "You" <you@shadow.orgs> wrote in message
| news:you-D96DBC.09080227042008@netnews.worldnet.att.net...
|> In article <fv1at5128ml@news3.newsguy.com>,
|> phil-news-nospam@ipal.net
|> wrote:
|
|>> There are two different flavors of 220/230/240 volts. Some places
|>> have a
|>> simple system with one wire hot and one wire grounded. Other
|>> places have
|>> a split system where the voltage is split in half to get
|>> 110/115/120 volts
|>> relative to ground, by adding a additional "middle" conductor that
|>> is the
|>> grounded one.
|
|> Sonny, you need to LEARN the difference between Ground and
|> Neutral......
|> before you spout any further BS.......
|
| What he wrote looks reasonable to me in terms of ground and neutral.
| Neutral is the grounded conductor where I live. He does not say to
| use a ground as a neutral, if that's what you're getting at. I can
| only guess that that may be what you're getting at, you haven't really
| said.

He might be one of those "knows just enough to be really dangerous" people
on the net. I didn't even mention "neutral". My intent was to explain it
in a simpler way for someone to just understand the basic difference. The
term "middle" was to convey a little more information than "neutral" would
SNIP

Well, I understood what he meant, but maybe I took it the wrong way. When he
said middle conudctor I was thinking the center lug on the transformer which
is grounded and used as the neutral.

Mike

 

[Michael Kennedy]

"Andrew Gabriel" <andrew@cucumber.demon.co.uk> wrote in message
news:4814d978$0$659$5a6aecb4@news.aaisp.net.uk...

In article <fv2ip2411fm@news4.newsguy.com>,
phil-news-nospam@ipal.net writes:
In alt.engineering.electrical Arfa Daily <arfa.daily@ntlworld.com> wrote:
|
| "jakdedert" <jakdedert@bellsouth.net> wrote in message
| news:89RQj.52246$r76.50400@bignews8.bellsouth.net...
|> I'm a little confused about a 230 volt circuit. In what part of the
world
|> does the utility supply 230v?
|
|> jak
|
| In theory, it's 230 on a single phase - neutral circuit here in the UK
now,
| but in practice, it's actually nearer the previously accepted 240v for
the
| most part ...

Is the grounded conductor in a 2-wire 230/240 volt system fed to each
home
referred to as "neutral" even in UK?

Yes, although we have 3 types of supply arrangement for earthing
used on public supplies. (Note that on 240V, there's often far
more distance between the consumer and the transformer than
you'll find in the US on 120V supplies.)

TN-S:
Neutral is grounded only at the transformer, but a separate
earth conductor is carried in the supply network and brought
into the home from that same grounding point.

In the USA they ground the Neutral at the transformer and do not run
a seperate ground conductor to the house. There is however a ground
rod driven which is tied to the neutral at the entrance to the house.
]

 

[Michael Kennedy]

"Andrew Gabriel" <andrew@cucumber.demon.co.uk> wrote in message
news:4814d978$0$659$5a6aecb4@news.aaisp.net.uk...

In article <fv2ip2411fm@news4.newsguy.com>,
phil-news-nospam@ipal.net writes:
In alt.engineering.electrical Arfa Daily <arfa.daily@ntlworld.com> wrote:
|
| "jakdedert" <jakdedert@bellsouth.net> wrote in message
| news:89RQj.52246$r76.50400@bignews8.bellsouth.net...
|> I'm a little confused about a 230 volt circuit. In what part of the
world
|> does the utility supply 230v?
|
|> jak
|
| In theory, it's 230 on a single phase - neutral circuit here in the UK
now,
| but in practice, it's actually nearer the previously accepted 240v for
the
| most part ...

Is the grounded conductor in a 2-wire 230/240 volt system fed to each
home
referred to as "neutral" even in UK?

Yes, although we have 3 types of supply arrangement for earthing
used on public supplies. (Note that on 240V, there's often far
more distance between the consumer and the transformer than
you'll find in the US on 120V supplies.)

TN-S:
Neutral is grounded only at the transformer, but a separate
earth conductor is carried in the supply network and brought
into the home from that same grounding point.

In the USA they ground the Neutral at the transformer and do not run
a seperate ground conductor to the house. There is however a ground
rod driven which is tied to the neutral at the entrance to the house.
]

 

[dBc]

Greetings Ross..

Regarding:
"When posters don't include their location it makes it very
difficult to give information about where to obtain parts local
to them. It is often uneconomical to buy a single part from
organisations such as Mouser using their shipping service."

While I agree that folks may be posting from anywhere on the
surface of the planet, and sometimes I wonder if not beyond,
Mouser will ship just about anywhere and there is no minimum
order. I grant you that shipping costs is a factor on any item
mail-ordered these days from any vendor. But not everyone has the
luxury of having the exact OEM part in their local geographical
area. For me personally, I've got a Fry's Electronics in my city
but, as usual, they're either out of (empty rod) or simply don't
carry the correct value. When I work on other people's
electronics I do not compromise the design by pasting together
two (or more) parts or put in a 'close' value. I take the extra
time & effort to find the correct part and install it. It tends
to keep nightmarish episodes and later questions from occurring
as to why I didn't stick to the parts that the factory installed.

While there has been exceptions to the above 'rules' they are
rare since I tend to stick with the original values. On the rare
occasions that I do deviate, I let the owner know beforehand and
fully explain as to why. A recent personal example is the
motherboard that I'm using right now was recently given to me by
a good friend since it kept resetting. The notorious Taiwan GSC
electrolytic capacitors where the electrolyte formula had
[supposedly] been stolen have been replaced and all is well. Did
I deviate from the original values - no.. Did I order from
Mouser - you bet! In the process, I ordered some 5mm L.S.
electrolytics when I actually needed 3mm - my mistake. I called
them, explained it, they said NO problem and sent me the 3mm
parts at no charge - when asked, they didn't want the originals
back. At this point, I'm happy with them even though I've dealt
with, and been happy with, others such as Jameco also. I just
find that after looking through their 1,940 page catalog, they
tend to have the exact replacement of what I'm looking for. As
long as I can order *exactly* what I need in single quantities -
I tend to do so..

Cheers,
Mr. Mentor



"Ross Herbert" <rherber1@bigpond.net.au> wrote in message
news:cbn714h0rbf47661v2kjdtt1kppra936vd@4ax.com...
| On Tue, 22 Apr 2008 22:27:07 -0700 (PDT), Mr.Frank263@gmail.com
wrote:
|
| :with which type and value to replace the below capacitor, I
tried my
| :best to find a new one but could not
| :4.7uf 25v non-polarized electrolytic capacitor of handy t.v.,
two
| :and a half inch, made in Taiwan
|
|
| When posters don't include their location it makes it very
difficult to give
| information about where to obtain parts local to them. It is
often uneconomical
| to buy a single part from organisations such as Mouser using
their shipping
| service.

 

[dBc]

Greetings Ross..

Regarding:
"When posters don't include their location it makes it very
difficult to give information about where to obtain parts local
to them. It is often uneconomical to buy a single part from
organisations such as Mouser using their shipping service."

While I agree that folks may be posting from anywhere on the
surface of the planet, and sometimes I wonder if not beyond,
Mouser will ship just about anywhere and there is no minimum
order. I grant you that shipping costs is a factor on any item
mail-ordered these days from any vendor. But not everyone has the
luxury of having the exact OEM part in their local geographical
area. For me personally, I've got a Fry's Electronics in my city
but, as usual, they're either out of (empty rod) or simply don't
carry the correct value. When I work on other people's
electronics I do not compromise the design by pasting together
two (or more) parts or put in a 'close' value. I take the extra
time & effort to find the correct part and install it. It tends
to keep nightmarish episodes and later questions from occurring
as to why I didn't stick to the parts that the factory installed.

While there has been exceptions to the above 'rules' they are
rare since I tend to stick with the original values. On the rare
occasions that I do deviate, I let the owner know beforehand and
fully explain as to why. A recent personal example is the
motherboard that I'm using right now was recently given to me by
a good friend since it kept resetting. The notorious Taiwan GSC
electrolytic capacitors where the electrolyte formula had
[supposedly] been stolen have been replaced and all is well. Did
I deviate from the original values - no.. Did I order from
Mouser - you bet! In the process, I ordered some 5mm L.S.
electrolytics when I actually needed 3mm - my mistake. I called
them, explained it, they said NO problem and sent me the 3mm
parts at no charge - when asked, they didn't want the originals
back. At this point, I'm happy with them even though I've dealt
with, and been happy with, others such as Jameco also. I just
find that after looking through their 1,940 page catalog, they
tend to have the exact replacement of what I'm looking for. As
long as I can order *exactly* what I need in single quantities -
I tend to do so..

Cheers,
Mr. Mentor



"Ross Herbert" <rherber1@bigpond.net.au> wrote in message
news:cbn714h0rbf47661v2kjdtt1kppra936vd@4ax.com...
| On Tue, 22 Apr 2008 22:27:07 -0700 (PDT), Mr.Frank263@gmail.com
wrote:
|
| :with which type and value to replace the below capacitor, I
tried my
| :best to find a new one but could not
| :4.7uf 25v non-polarized electrolytic capacitor of handy t.v.,
two
| :and a half inch, made in Taiwan
|
|
| When posters don't include their location it makes it very
difficult to give
| information about where to obtain parts local to them. It is
often uneconomical
| to buy a single part from organisations such as Mouser using
their shipping
| service.

 

[James Sweet]

"Wiebe Cazemier" <wiebe@halfgaar.net> wrote in message
news:f1b4$4814d31c$d4cc82be$27823@cache4.tilbu1.nb.home.nl...

On Sunday 27 April 2008 21:04, Wiebe Cazemier wrote:

On Sunday 27 April 2008 20:52, James Sweet wrote:

Don't be so quick to condemn the CRT, sure it could be at fault, but
eliminate the external stuff first! A bad connection on the neck board
can
just as easily cause the same symptom.

But won't a bad connection give me a black screen, because when the
cathode
is disconnected from it's line, no current can flow. How can the blue
cathode
be shorted to ground on the neck board? I can't see anything (obvious) on
the
board that could cause a short.

BTW, I thought the RGB guns had separate line wires, but besides the
focus
and grid voltage wires, only one extra thick wire runs to the neck board.
That has to be the cathode line voltage, right? And if so, doesn't that
mean
that when it's shorted to ground, all the guns are fully turned on, and
not
just the blue one (as is the case here)?

Wait, I've been thinking. An intermittent short in a capacitor between the
blue
cathode line voltage and ground could of course also cause this (and there
are
some of them, ceramics, on the neck board). But one question about that,
which
I guess also applies to when the short is inside the CRT:

Provided there is one cathode driving voltage for all guns, why aren't all
guns
fully turned on when one of the cathodes is shorted to ground? Because if
one
is shorted to ground, there is no more line voltage for the other guns
either,
right?

It appears you need to look at the schematic for a CRT monitor or TV to get
a better understanding of how this works. A disconnected cathode will float,
you have to pull it down towards ground to turn it on. The transistors
driving the cathodes isolate them from one another.


It depends on where the bad connection is, and the design of the cathode
driver circuits. It's also possible for one of the driver transistors to
have an intermittant short. I would desolder the blue cathode pin on the CRT
socket and tap the neck with the monitor on. If you can still repro the
symptoms, then the problem is probably in the tube.