Toshiba TV29C90 problem; Image fades to black...

[dBc]

Greetings Rush..

Just a consideration..
Amazing how many people refer it simply as "solar powered"
without knowing the real name of the cells.. While I've seen the
photovoltaic based yard lights, they're more of a novelty than
anything really useful since they really don't put out that much
light. By far, the best installations I've seen in yard/walkway
lighting has been from professionally installed and wired 12v (or
more) DC systems on a timer. They put out sufficient light to
*actually* illuminate the walkway in the middle of the night. In
my opinion and from my personal experience, there is no
exception - in the long run. Further, they tend to last a lot
longer than the alternatives and be more easily serviceable. And
trust me, the alternatives tend not to last all that long and
certainly eventually require servicing. This of course is
referring to the consumer style "solar powered" lighting without
wires. Also consider, since they use batteries for illuminating
those light emitting diodes, those batteries, like any battery,
will sooner than later require replacement.

Cheers,
Mr. Mentor


"z" <gzuckier@snail-mail.net> wrote in message
news:fc825465-18f3-4e23-98ed-00af4aaba56d@f36g2000hsa.googlegroups.com...
On Apr 11, 10:55 am, rush14 <rus...@columbus.rr.com> wrote:

I'm wanting to install some solar powered landscape lights but
I don't
like the orange colored LEDs or the bluish tint of the so
called white
LEDs.

I was thinking of buying some of the solar lights advertised as
super
bright white LEDs and replacing the LEDs with what are referred
to as
super bright warm white LEDs. The low voltage powered lights
are not
an option.

I welcome your thoughts and suggestions.

Thanks,
Rush

This may be a bit off topic but at least I'm not hawking
Chinese made
handbags or porno videos.

replace the batteries with high capacity ones too, while you're
doing
the surgery. the stock batteries are ridiculous.

 

[bz]

Wiebe Cazemier <wiebe@halfgaar.net> wrote in
news:911f0$4814d036$d4cc82be$23551@cache4.tilbu1.nb.home.nl:

On Sunday 27 April 2008 15:14, bz wrote:

If you are SURE that no vibrations from your tapping traveled
elsewhere, that is a strong clue.
Otherwise it can be a misleading clue.

I have played the 'taps' game and won. I have played it and lost.
It is best when you can make smaller and smaller taps while getting
closer and closer to the problem.

If the tap will only occasionally trigger/fix the problem, then it is
easy to be misled.

I know what you mean. Just yesterday, I had another CRT open, which
often has one or more of it's colors failing. You can fix it by smashing
it, but when I had it open, I could fix it by very gently touching the
neck board. In that case, it was clear where the fault was. In the case
with this Eizo, I can tap the neck board a lot harder without it doing
anything, so you're right in that it could very well be something else.

When I had a TV repair shop, in the early 70's, we had a tester for
picture tubes.
It had a short indicator and a 'remove short' button that discharged a
capacitor through the short.
Sometimes it would fix things. Sometimes it would make things worse.

I assume that would connect between chassis ground and cathode?

If I remember correctly, the short was located via the earlier testing,
rotating a switch to localize the short.
You would then charge up a capacitor that was built into the tester and
then discharge the capacitor through the short via a pushbutton switch.

As I
mentioned in my other post, I thought there were three line wires, but I
can only discern one; is that the one?

[http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Trinitron]
Another feature was a three cathode single electron gun arrangement, in
contrast to the then-dominant (and still common) three gun arrangement.
Single gun systems tend to be easier to manufacture reliably, simplify beam
focus and control, and are less prone to inter-electrode short circuits.
[unquote]

And the cathode line capacitor BTW, where is that likely to be located?
Near the flyback on the mainboard?

Sorry, no idea. But I think you are mistaking which capacitor is going to
be used to clear the short.

Good luck with your experiment. Hopefully, it won't drop something into
the center of the shadow mask.

Aperture grill mask, actually

Correct.

Be aware that with 15 lb of air pressing on each square inch of the
CRT, you are playing with a live bomb.

I once took a picture tube out, laid it on its faceplate, got about 50
feet away and tossed rocks at it.

Woomp. Dust and dirt and glass flew everywhere.

Chunks of the face plate (glass about 1 1/2 inches thick) landed about
50 feet BEHIND me.

Now, I would want a thick sheet of lexan between me and any CRT that I
was tapping upon, and safety goggles, gloves.

I was very careful, because I really didn't want to break anything. But
anyway, I wasn't able to fix the problem. I'm looking at the screen
right now, and as I'm typing this, it just flashed again. I don't know
if I can or should tap harder, but I wouldn't feel too comfortable
trying it.

It's really annoying that I can't reproduce the fault reliably... Even
if it is a short between the blue gun and ground, I couldn't even short
it out with a cap, because the problem only every occurs for a fraction
of second, very sporadically...

Intermittents are very problematic.



--
bz

please pardon my infinite ignorance, the set-of-things-I-do-not-know is an
infinite set.

bz+spr@ch100-5.chem.lsu.edu remove ch100-5 to avoid spam trap

 

[bz]

Wiebe Cazemier <wiebe@halfgaar.net> wrote in
news:e631c$4814fa58$d4cc82be$21713@cache2.tilbu1.nb.home.nl:

On Sunday 27 April 2008 23:23, bz wrote:

[http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Trinitron]
Another feature was a three cathode single electron gun arrangement, in
contrast to the then-dominant (and still common) three gun arrangement.
Single gun systems tend to be easier to manufacture reliably, simplify
beam focus and control, and are less prone to inter-electrode short
circuits. [unquote]

Ah, that explains it.

Three guns means three filaments, three cathodes, and three sets of
focusing electrodes.
One gun means that the three cathodes all use the same focusing electrodes.

And the cathode line capacitor BTW, where is that likely to be
located? Near the flyback on the mainboard?

Sorry, no idea. But I think you are mistaking which capacitor is going
to be used to clear the short.

The question about the line capacitor was unrelated. It had to do with
another minor issue of this monitor (it slightly getting brighter over
time, ever since I got it), of which was suggested it could be this cap
which was degrading. While we were on the subject, I just thought I'd
ask.

Ah. I see.

I would expect a cathode bypass cap to be near the cathode.
On the other hand a cap involved in driving a cathode with a signal might
be near the video output. Sorry I can't help more.

I remember quite a long discussion somewhere about 'monitor too bright',
google may find it for you.

If I remember correctly, it was a panasonic monitor being discussed and two
fixes were mentioned. One involved going through the setup menu and the
other putting a resistor in parallel with another resisitor.
This may or may not be of any help to you.




--
bz 73 de N5BZ k

please pardon my infinite ignorance, the set-of-things-I-do-not-know is an
infinite set.

bz+ser@ch100-5.chem.lsu.edu remove ch100-5 to avoid spam trap

 

[bz]

Wiebe Cazemier <wiebe@halfgaar.net> wrote in
news:e631c$4814fa58$d4cc82be$21713@cache2.tilbu1.nb.home.nl:

On Sunday 27 April 2008 23:23, bz wrote:

[http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Trinitron]
Another feature was a three cathode single electron gun arrangement, in
contrast to the then-dominant (and still common) three gun arrangement.
Single gun systems tend to be easier to manufacture reliably, simplify
beam focus and control, and are less prone to inter-electrode short
circuits. [unquote]

Ah, that explains it.

Three guns means three filaments, three cathodes, and three sets of
focusing electrodes.
One gun means that the three cathodes all use the same focusing electrodes.

And the cathode line capacitor BTW, where is that likely to be
located? Near the flyback on the mainboard?

Sorry, no idea. But I think you are mistaking which capacitor is going
to be used to clear the short.

The question about the line capacitor was unrelated. It had to do with
another minor issue of this monitor (it slightly getting brighter over
time, ever since I got it), of which was suggested it could be this cap
which was degrading. While we were on the subject, I just thought I'd
ask.

Ah. I see.

I would expect a cathode bypass cap to be near the cathode.
On the other hand a cap involved in driving a cathode with a signal might
be near the video output. Sorry I can't help more.

I remember quite a long discussion somewhere about 'monitor too bright',
google may find it for you.

If I remember correctly, it was a panasonic monitor being discussed and two
fixes were mentioned. One involved going through the setup menu and the
other putting a resistor in parallel with another resisitor.
This may or may not be of any help to you.




--
bz 73 de N5BZ k

please pardon my infinite ignorance, the set-of-things-I-do-not-know is an
infinite set.

bz+ser@ch100-5.chem.lsu.edu remove ch100-5 to avoid spam trap

 

[James Sweet]

"Wiebe Cazemier" <wiebe@halfgaar.net> wrote in message
news:3a846$4814fdb0$d4cc82be$27219@cache2.tilbu1.nb.home.nl...

On Sunday 27 April 2008 23:47, James Sweet wrote:
I would desolder the blue cathode pin on the CRT
socket and tap the neck with the monitor on. If you can still repro the
symptoms, then the problem is probably in the tube.

Taking what bz said into account, that the Trinitron tube has a single
electron
gun, doesn't this mean that if the screen turns fully blue (and not red
and
green as well, meaning white), including retrace lines, that the short can
exist nowhere except inside the tube?

The Trinitron tube has a "unified" electron gun, it's more marketing than
anything else, but in a nutshell it uses the same focus and accelerating
electrodes for all three cathodes. There are still three separate guns in
effect, just bundled into one tidy assembly. Electrically it is no different
than the three separate gun assemblies used in other CRTs.

You will not damage anything by disconnecting a cathode, the accelerating
anodes, grids, focus, etc will still be active.

 

[GregS]

In article <d332792c-4af8-4d85-83a8-2e07b6e55c78@24g2000hsh.googlegroups.com>, rush14 <rush14@columbus.rr.com> wrote:

Thanks to all who replied about the solar cell (photovoltaic)
landscape light mod.

The reason I'm wanting to try the solar powered lights is my wifes
garden is continuously changing during the season as plants grow. The
low voltage spotlights we currently use are not easy to relocate to
accommodate the ever changing landscape. You just can't run wiring to
fit all the possible growth scenarios. Portable solar lighting
(although it has maintenance issues) seemed like a possible solution.

I realize that the typical solar powered lights are basically useless
for highlighting plants and other garden features but now I see these
lights advertised with high intensity LEDs and I wonder if they might
have adequate brightness. The problem is I can't stand the eerie
bluish tint of the so called "white" LEDs and I have yet to find any
using more incandescent looking LEDs. My thinking is to just replace
the existing LEDs with a different color, such as "warm white" ones
and maybe do a battery upgrade as well.

Someone in the forum also mentioned "natural white" LEDs and I did see
an outfit advertising lights with that color but I've yet to see a
spectrum chart that shows what color natural white really is. Is it
white like the background of these text messages or is it just another
name for the so called white LEDs?

Anyway, sorry to drag this out and your comments/suggestions were
appreciated along with any future ones.

Thanks
Rush

I don't know what the spectrum is. The ones I ordered from Led Supply are very noce
as far as I'm concerned. The big ones of the 'neutral light' are 4100K and are warm enough
for me. The warm ones are 3000K. The little 5mm warm lamps look very similar to the
'neutral lights" I got the wide angled ones.
http://www.ledsupply.com/l1-0-ww5th50-1.php

The large ones I ordered are here..
http://www.ledsupply.com/05027-pwn2.php

I suppose you have electronic knowledge and know how to solder, and take care
of problems inside the solar lamps which corosion takes top priority.
You have to properly seal the fixture. Very few are maid well.

greg

On Apr 11, 10:55 am, rush14 <rus...@columbus.rr.com> wrote:
I'm wanting to install some solar powered landscape lights but I don't
like the orange colored LEDs or the bluish tint of the so called white
LEDs.

I was thinking of buying some of the solar lights advertised as super
bright white LEDs and replacing the LEDs with what are referred to as
super bright warm white LEDs. The low voltage powered lights are not
an option.

I welcome your thoughts and suggestions.

Thanks,
Rush

This may be a bit off topic but at least I'm not hawking Chinese made
handbags or porno videos.

 

[GregS]

In article <fv4ppg$5i8$1@usenet01.srv.cis.pitt.edu>, zekfrivo@zekfrivolous.com (GregS) wrote:

In article <d332792c-4af8-4d85-83a8-2e07b6e55c78@24g2000hsh.googlegroups.com>,
rush14 <rush14@columbus.rr.com> wrote:
Thanks to all who replied about the solar cell (photovoltaic)
landscape light mod.

The reason I'm wanting to try the solar powered lights is my wifes
garden is continuously changing during the season as plants grow. The
low voltage spotlights we currently use are not easy to relocate to
accommodate the ever changing landscape. You just can't run wiring to
fit all the possible growth scenarios. Portable solar lighting
(although it has maintenance issues) seemed like a possible solution.

I realize that the typical solar powered lights are basically useless
for highlighting plants and other garden features but now I see these
lights advertised with high intensity LEDs and I wonder if they might
have adequate brightness. The problem is I can't stand the eerie
bluish tint of the so called "white" LEDs and I have yet to find any
using more incandescent looking LEDs. My thinking is to just replace
the existing LEDs with a different color, such as "warm white" ones
and maybe do a battery upgrade as well.

Someone in the forum also mentioned "natural white" LEDs and I did see
an outfit advertising lights with that color but I've yet to see a
spectrum chart that shows what color natural white really is. Is it
white like the background of these text messages or is it just another
name for the so called white LEDs?

Anyway, sorry to drag this out and your comments/suggestions were
appreciated along with any future ones.

Thanks
Rush

I also should say, these are probably not going to be any brighter since all
solar lamps of recent years have high brightness Led's.
You really wasnt the "spot" type of lamp to get good highlighted brightness.

I don't know what the spectrum is. The ones I ordered from Led Supply are very
noce
as far as I'm concerned. The big ones of the 'neutral light' are 4100K and are
warm enough
for me. The warm ones are 3000K. The little 5mm warm lamps look very similar to
the
'neutral lights" I got the wide angled ones.
http://www.ledsupply.com/l1-0-ww5th50-1.php

The large ones I ordered are here..
http://www.ledsupply.com/05027-pwn2.php

I suppose you have electronic knowledge and know how to solder, and take care
of problems inside the solar lamps which corosion takes top priority.
You have to properly seal the fixture. Very few are maid well.

greg


On Apr 11, 10:55 am, rush14 <rus...@columbus.rr.com> wrote:
I'm wanting to install some solar powered landscape lights but I don't
like the orange colored LEDs or the bluish tint of the so called white
LEDs.

I was thinking of buying some of the solar lights advertised as super
bright white LEDs and replacing the LEDs with what are referred to as
super bright warm white LEDs. The low voltage powered lights are not
an option.

I welcome your thoughts and suggestions.

Thanks,
Rush

This may be a bit off topic but at least I'm not hawking Chinese made
handbags or porno videos.

 

[James Sweet]

"Wiebe Cazemier" <wiebe@halfgaar.net> wrote in message
news:7e414$4815f79e$d4cc82be$26739@cache2.tilbu1.nb.home.nl...

On Monday 28 April 2008 14:11, Wiebe Cazemier wrote:

I have the monitor running now without the blue gun connected. The fault
persists. When I turned it on, the screen flashed blue on and off like a
stroboscope. I was able to reproduce it by tapping the neckboard. Now
that
it's warm, the fault is gone again.

Whoops, I meant, with the blue gun disconnected...


There is one difference. Before, the screen would contract and expand and
eventually turn off when it did this, probably because the CRT driver (an
LM2413 BTW) was shorted to ground through the blue cathode.

Anyway, the fault seems to be in the tube, in the blue gun. I will try
the
shaking method a bit more, and hopefully I don't have to take any drastic
measures. BTW, I read somewhere in one of the sci.repair faqs that you
have
to tap the neck quite hard: "not enough to break it, but close". I don't
really dare to do that...

Yep, sounds like it really is the tube. If it's a heater-cathode short, you
could isolate the heater, powering it with 2 or 3 turns of wire around the
flyback core. Careful not to overdo it, it really only takes a couple of
turns on these high frequency transformers.

 

In alt.engineering.electrical Michael Kennedy <Mikek400@remthis.comcast.net> wrote:
|
| <phil-news-nospam@ipal.net> wrote in message
| news:fv2imt311fm@news4.newsguy.com...
|> In alt.engineering.electrical operator jay <none@none.none> wrote:
|> |
|> | "You" <you@shadow.orgs> wrote in message
|> | news:you-D96DBC.09080227042008@netnews.worldnet.att.net...
|> |> In article <fv1at5128ml@news3.newsguy.com>,
|> |> phil-news-nospam@ipal.net
|> |> wrote:
|> |>
|> |>> There are two different flavors of 220/230/240 volts. Some places
|> |>> have a
|> |>> simple system with one wire hot and one wire grounded. Other
|> |>> places have
|> |>> a split system where the voltage is split in half to get
|> |>> 110/115/120 volts
|> |>> relative to ground, by adding a additional "middle" conductor that
|> |>> is the
|> |>> grounded one.
|> |>
|> |> Sonny, you need to LEARN the difference between Ground and
|> |> Neutral......
|> |> before you spout any further BS.......
|> |
|> | What he wrote looks reasonable to me in terms of ground and neutral.
|> | Neutral is the grounded conductor where I live. He does not say to
|> | use a ground as a neutral, if that's what you're getting at. I can
|> | only guess that that may be what you're getting at, you haven't really
|> | said.
|>
|> He might be one of those "knows just enough to be really dangerous" people
|> on the net. I didn't even mention "neutral". My intent was to explain it
|> in a simpler way for someone to just understand the basic difference. The
|> term "middle" was to convey a little more information than "neutral" would
| <SNIP>
|
| Well, I understood what he meant, but maybe I took it the wrong way. When he
| said middle conudctor I was thinking the center lug on the transformer which
| is grounded and used as the neutral.

That is what I meant when I said middle conductor. I intentionally avoided
calling it neutral for the person I was responding to. I did quote it to
make it clear (but this apparently was not clear enough for at least one
person) for others that I was using some other term.

--
|WARNING: Due to extreme spam, I no longer see any articles originating from |
| Google Groups. If you want your postings to be seen by more readers |
| you will need to find a different place to post on Usenet. |
| Phil Howard KA9WGN (email for humans: first name in lower case at ipal.net) |

 

In alt.engineering.electrical Michael Kennedy <Mikek400@remthis.comcast.net> wrote:
|
| <phil-news-nospam@ipal.net> wrote in message
| news:fv2imt311fm@news4.newsguy.com...
|> In alt.engineering.electrical operator jay <none@none.none> wrote:
|> |
|> | "You" <you@shadow.orgs> wrote in message
|> | news:you-D96DBC.09080227042008@netnews.worldnet.att.net...
|> |> In article <fv1at5128ml@news3.newsguy.com>,
|> |> phil-news-nospam@ipal.net
|> |> wrote:
|> |>
|> |>> There are two different flavors of 220/230/240 volts. Some places
|> |>> have a
|> |>> simple system with one wire hot and one wire grounded. Other
|> |>> places have
|> |>> a split system where the voltage is split in half to get
|> |>> 110/115/120 volts
|> |>> relative to ground, by adding a additional "middle" conductor that
|> |>> is the
|> |>> grounded one.
|> |>
|> |> Sonny, you need to LEARN the difference between Ground and
|> |> Neutral......
|> |> before you spout any further BS.......
|> |
|> | What he wrote looks reasonable to me in terms of ground and neutral.
|> | Neutral is the grounded conductor where I live. He does not say to
|> | use a ground as a neutral, if that's what you're getting at. I can
|> | only guess that that may be what you're getting at, you haven't really
|> | said.
|>
|> He might be one of those "knows just enough to be really dangerous" people
|> on the net. I didn't even mention "neutral". My intent was to explain it
|> in a simpler way for someone to just understand the basic difference. The
|> term "middle" was to convey a little more information than "neutral" would
| <SNIP>
|
| Well, I understood what he meant, but maybe I took it the wrong way. When he
| said middle conudctor I was thinking the center lug on the transformer which
| is grounded and used as the neutral.

That is what I meant when I said middle conductor. I intentionally avoided
calling it neutral for the person I was responding to. I did quote it to
make it clear (but this apparently was not clear enough for at least one
person) for others that I was using some other term.

--
|WARNING: Due to extreme spam, I no longer see any articles originating from |
| Google Groups. If you want your postings to be seen by more readers |
| you will need to find a different place to post on Usenet. |
| Phil Howard KA9WGN (email for humans: first name in lower case at ipal.net) |

 

In alt.engineering.electrical Andrew Gabriel <andrew@cucumber.demon.co.uk> wrote:

| Yes, although we have 3 types of supply arrangement for earthing
| used on public supplies. (Note that on 240V, there's often far
| more distance between the consumer and the transformer than
| you'll find in the US on 120V supplies.)

Our supplies to homes are also 240V. We just ground it in a different
way through the use of a center tap and an additional wire, which gets
the neutral designation. For an equivalent _balanced_ load in the US,
we should see no more voltage drop than in the UK. And that voltage
drop will be effectively halved between one of the hots and the neutral.


| TN-S:
| Neutral is grounded only at the transformer, but a separate
| earth conductor is carried in the supply network and brought
| into the home from that same grounding point.
|
| TN-C-S (also known as Protective Multiple Earthing):
| A single PEN (Protective Earth and Neutral) conductor from
| the transformer serves as both neutral and ground connection
| in the supply network. The PEN conductor must also be earthed
| regularly throughout the supply network, and it requires very
| high integrity connections to ensure the risk of it breaking
| is very low (this is a legal requirement). Once the supply
| reaches the consumer, the PEN conductor is split into separate
| neutral and earth conductors in the installation.
|
| TT:
| The supplier grounds the neutral as for TN-S, but doesn't
| provide the consumer with any earthing connection. The
| consumer needs to make their own ground connection for earthing
| (and shouldn't cross-connect this to the neutral).
| TT is only found on old rural overhead supply networks, and
| they are upgraded to TN-C-S when due for refurbishment.
|
| Even if the supplier does provide an earth connection (TN-S
| or TN-C-S), the installation can choose to ignore it and be
| wired as a TT system. This is sometimes done for submains
| to outbuildings and outdoor electrics, even when the main
| installation is TN-S or TN-C-S.
|
| These earthing system arrangements are covered in the uk.d-i-y
| FAQ: http://www.diyfaq.org.uk/electrical/electrical.html#system

Nice info!

I'm curious about this: is it legal in the UK for a home to feed their supply
into their own transformer and ground the secondary at that point as a new
system?

--
|WARNING: Due to extreme spam, I no longer see any articles originating from |
| Google Groups. If you want your postings to be seen by more readers |
| you will need to find a different place to post on Usenet. |
| Phil Howard KA9WGN (email for humans: first name in lower case at ipal.net) |

 

In alt.engineering.electrical Andrew Gabriel <andrew@cucumber.demon.co.uk> wrote:

| Yes, although we have 3 types of supply arrangement for earthing
| used on public supplies. (Note that on 240V, there's often far
| more distance between the consumer and the transformer than
| you'll find in the US on 120V supplies.)

Our supplies to homes are also 240V. We just ground it in a different
way through the use of a center tap and an additional wire, which gets
the neutral designation. For an equivalent _balanced_ load in the US,
we should see no more voltage drop than in the UK. And that voltage
drop will be effectively halved between one of the hots and the neutral.


| TN-S:
| Neutral is grounded only at the transformer, but a separate
| earth conductor is carried in the supply network and brought
| into the home from that same grounding point.
|
| TN-C-S (also known as Protective Multiple Earthing):
| A single PEN (Protective Earth and Neutral) conductor from
| the transformer serves as both neutral and ground connection
| in the supply network. The PEN conductor must also be earthed
| regularly throughout the supply network, and it requires very
| high integrity connections to ensure the risk of it breaking
| is very low (this is a legal requirement). Once the supply
| reaches the consumer, the PEN conductor is split into separate
| neutral and earth conductors in the installation.
|
| TT:
| The supplier grounds the neutral as for TN-S, but doesn't
| provide the consumer with any earthing connection. The
| consumer needs to make their own ground connection for earthing
| (and shouldn't cross-connect this to the neutral).
| TT is only found on old rural overhead supply networks, and
| they are upgraded to TN-C-S when due for refurbishment.
|
| Even if the supplier does provide an earth connection (TN-S
| or TN-C-S), the installation can choose to ignore it and be
| wired as a TT system. This is sometimes done for submains
| to outbuildings and outdoor electrics, even when the main
| installation is TN-S or TN-C-S.
|
| These earthing system arrangements are covered in the uk.d-i-y
| FAQ: http://www.diyfaq.org.uk/electrical/electrical.html#system

Nice info!

I'm curious about this: is it legal in the UK for a home to feed their supply
into their own transformer and ground the secondary at that point as a new
system?

--
|WARNING: Due to extreme spam, I no longer see any articles originating from |
| Google Groups. If you want your postings to be seen by more readers |
| you will need to find a different place to post on Usenet. |
| Phil Howard KA9WGN (email for humans: first name in lower case at ipal.net) |

 

[James Sweet]

"Wiebe Cazemier" <wiebe@halfgaar.net> wrote in message
news:c8ff7$481658e0$d4cc82be$5609@cache3.tilbu1.nb.home.nl...

On Tuesday 29 April 2008 00:51, Wiebe Cazemier wrote:

On Tuesday 29 April 2008 00:53, Jamie wrote:

why not use a isolation xformer for the heaters?

I also read about those, but didn't investigate. It's basically the same
idea
as winding an extra turn on the flyback, right? Do you simply place it
between the original filament power supply+gnd and filament? How does it
affect image quality, also taking into account the eventual possible
situation that the blue cathode will be in contact with the heater
permanently?

One more question about them: the cathode signal is not DC, so won't
current
from the cathode driver still find it's way to ground through the
transformer?

No, it doesn't work like that, the transformer isolates it. If the primary
was dead shorted, it might have some effect on it, but the video signal is
in the MHz range, the transformer will be around 30KHz.

 

[JANA]

If you are in North America, and have 120 VAC to the outlets, what you
call 220 or 230 VAC in your home is actually 208 VAC, unless you
installed some kind of transformer to compensate.

I somehow think that the vendor of the motor made an error. Having 280
VAC sounds to me very unconventional, unless this was some kind of
special installation.

I would buy the motor. If in the even that it needed a higher voltage
because it lacks torque for your application, then there is the
possibility of needed an transformer. This would be expensive.

Some motors have a cover plate inside with strappings, to allow changing
its operating voltage, RPM, and direction of rotation.

If you were to run a synchronous motor on a lower voltage, it will have
lower torque rather than lower RPM, unless the supply voltage was
reduced to below the motor's stable operating threshold. Synchronous
motors are dependent on the AC frequency (Hz) for their RPM.



--

JANA
_____


"Deodiaus" <deodiaus@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:2f85e038-fd1b-4f6c-aa9d-f5327d7a823f@x41g2000hsb.googlegroups.com...
I have a broken pool motor [magnetek y56y] which will cost a bundle to
fix
or repair.
While doing a search on the web, I found the same model (really cheap)
but
wired for 280V, instead of the 230 V load that my wiring is supplies.
Now, I was thinking of buying the cheap 280V model and installing it
instead. Aside from rotating at a different speed and
maybe some power inefficiencies, are there any other drawbacks of
using the 280V model
instead?

 

[JANA]

I strongly suggest you find and fix the cold solder connection that
caused the fault. Or if the transistor is intermittant, replace it.

--

JANA
_____


<tx7123@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:a60fee7d-739c-427d-bf6c-301464aa4ceb@k37g2000hsf.googlegroups.com...
OK I took the thing apart and sure enough, there was a sanyo 313E
mounted on a V shaped piece of metal(heatsink?). When I tapped
gently on the metal, everything now works fine.
The small board in question is AWR-011A, which according
to the schematic is the power supply unit.
I would think that if this was the roblem it would effect
everything, not just the radio.
Anyway I will run it for awhile with the case open,
and see if the problem recurs.


On Apr 26, 11:50 am, "Bob Shuman" <no_spam_...@sbcglobal.net> wrote:

Sounds like something is intermittent in the radio section (assumes
amplifier/auxiliary input/tape/etc. all are still working fine). I'd
start
by looking for cold/broken solder connections under a magnifying. Or
alternatively, if that does not work and you can get at the board
safely
while the unit is powered up, you can try pushing at various points
with a
wooden dowel or similar non-conductive item. This may help you isolate
the
area to take a closer look.

If these do not help, then you'll either need a schematic, a volt
meter,
scope, and some troubleshooting skills to check the power supply
voltages at
key points and then follow the signal through the radio section or
take it
to someone to do the work for you.

Bob

tx7...@yahoo.com> wrote in message

news:facbbdcd-1b25-4648-a91b-6c409b7924d8@56g2000hsm.googlegroups.com...



I have a pioneer sx-727 receiver, I'm the original owner (33 years).
Recently the radio stopped working.
Everything else works great.
FM, AM no difference does NOT work.
The tuning meter does not move as I turn the tuning dial.
If I turn the volume up, I can hear some static thru the speakers.
Occasionally the radio will spontaneously work for a while,
and then return to this dead mode.
All the other inputs cd, turntable work fine.
Any ideas what the problem might be?
Thanks.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

 

[JANA]

I took a look at the part numbers here. These sound like proprietary
numbers. The manufacture services these by board exchange. They don't
service these at the component level.

If you call in for a board, I think they will not sell to you directly.
They will tell you to bring or send the monitor to one of the factory
authorized service reps.

--

JANA
_____


"dnatree" <steven@stephentree.com> wrote in message
news:56011e0d-a633-45d4-8c6d-651937498fdf@p25g2000pri.googlegroups.com...
This flatscreen model GWT-P42M303 shorted the 15v and I isolated it to
pn 4921QP1002B. There are two of these driver hybrid thingees and one
is shorted but finding parts seems to be a problem. Any ideas?

 

[James Sweet]

"JANA" <jana@NOSPAMca.inter.net> wrote in message
news:meWdnTMrMd-EXovVnZ2dnUVZ_tGonZ2d@uniservecommunications...

If you are in North America, and have 120 VAC to the outlets, what you
call 220 or 230 VAC in your home is actually 208 VAC, unless you
installed some kind of transformer to compensate.

No, that's not true. It's 240V, the transformer has a grounded center tap so
120 from either side to neutral, and 240 between the hots. You find 208V in
commercial buildings and some apartment complexes that are fed with 3 phase,
but not in a house, unless you're one of the few lucky people to have 3
phase available.

I somehow think that the vendor of the motor made an error. Having 280
VAC sounds to me very unconventional, unless this was some kind of
special installation.

It's clearly a typo and should be 208V.

 

[Arfa Daily]

"James Sweet" <jamessweet@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:NwzRj.2777$uS1.2692@trndny05...

"JANA" <jana@NOSPAMca.inter.net> wrote in message
news:meWdnTMrMd-EXovVnZ2dnUVZ_tGonZ2d@uniservecommunications...
If you are in North America, and have 120 VAC to the outlets, what you
call 220 or 230 VAC in your home is actually 208 VAC, unless you
installed some kind of transformer to compensate.


No, that's not true. It's 240V, the transformer has a grounded center tap
so 120 from either side to neutral, and 240 between the hots. You find
208V in commercial buildings and some apartment complexes that are fed
with 3 phase, but not in a house, unless you're one of the few lucky
people to have 3 phase available.


I somehow think that the vendor of the motor made an error. Having 280
VAC sounds to me very unconventional, unless this was some kind of
special installation.


It's clearly a typo and should be 208V.

If it's not a silly question, with the motor in question being offered "on
the web, really cheap", then if it's e-bay, why not use the 'ask the seller
a question' option, or if it's a reseller, use his on-site 'contact us'
facility ? Then there would be no debate about typos and exotic voltage
issues ...

Arfa

 

[Arfa Daily]

"James Sweet" <jamessweet@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:NwzRj.2777$uS1.2692@trndny05...

"JANA" <jana@NOSPAMca.inter.net> wrote in message
news:meWdnTMrMd-EXovVnZ2dnUVZ_tGonZ2d@uniservecommunications...
If you are in North America, and have 120 VAC to the outlets, what you
call 220 or 230 VAC in your home is actually 208 VAC, unless you
installed some kind of transformer to compensate.


No, that's not true. It's 240V, the transformer has a grounded center tap
so 120 from either side to neutral, and 240 between the hots. You find
208V in commercial buildings and some apartment complexes that are fed
with 3 phase, but not in a house, unless you're one of the few lucky
people to have 3 phase available.


I somehow think that the vendor of the motor made an error. Having 280
VAC sounds to me very unconventional, unless this was some kind of
special installation.


It's clearly a typo and should be 208V.

If it's not a silly question, with the motor in question being offered "on
the web, really cheap", then if it's e-bay, why not use the 'ask the seller
a question' option, or if it's a reseller, use his on-site 'contact us'
facility ? Then there would be no debate about typos and exotic voltage
issues ...

Arfa

 

[Mark D. Zacharias]

"JANA" <jana@NOSPAMca.inter.net> wrote in message
news:meWdnS0rMd-EXovVnZ2dnUVZ_tHinZ2d@uniservecommunications...

I took a look at the part numbers here. These sound like proprietary
numbers. The manufacture services these by board exchange. They don't
service these at the component level.

If you call in for a board, I think they will not sell to you directly.
They will tell you to bring or send the monitor to one of the factory
authorized service reps.

--

JANA
_____


"dnatree" <steven@stephentree.com> wrote in message
news:56011e0d-a633-45d4-8c6d-651937498fdf@p25g2000pri.googlegroups.com...
This flatscreen model GWT-P42M303 shorted the 15v and I isolated it to
pn 4921QP1002B. There are two of these driver hybrid thingees and one
is shorted but finding parts seems to be a problem. Any ideas?

Gateway does not even support out-of warranty repair. No factory service -
nothing. If you call them they'll tell you to try to find some local
service. Of course they don't sell parts or service literature, so "local
service" is virtually impossible. These companies should be put out of
business for these practices.

Mark Z.