Toshiba TV29C90 problem; Image fades to black...

[Arfa Daily]

"Don Bowey" <dbowey@comcast.net> wrote in message
news:C42BB1C3.B61FF%dbowey@comcast.net...

On 4/16/08 12:11 PM, in article
239af8e7-eae0-416f-a5bd-fb8c06a21131@b1g2000hsg.googlegroups.com, "EricM"
ew_morr@hotmail.com> wrote:

On Apr 16, 12:30 pm, Don Bowey <dbo...@comcast.net> wrote:
On 4/16/08 9:59 AM, in article
71f00565-740c-45b5-affc-93fc02458...@t54g2000hsg.googlegroups.com,
"EricM"



ew_m...@hotmail.com> wrote:
On Apr 16, 7:25 am, Heinz Schmitz <HeinzSchm...@gmx.net> wrote:
EricM wrote:
Here's a link to the schematic; after replacing CR1 and CR2A/B with
10 amp 600 V silicon diodes, when the relay closes to enable the 600V
plate voltage, the main power fuse F1 blows. I'm not sure I need
dropping resistors, because the output voltage on the 12.6 and -38
terminals is very close to what it should be. Is there something I'm
missing? http://img410.imageshack.us/img410/4691/1567pscb9.jpg

I'd disconnect the relay (S-1 and VS3) and comfortably check all other
voltages (value, polarity, ripple). If ok, I'd power off and check the
electrolytics in the 600 V circuitry (otoh, if they do not look
exploded, they are probably ok). Then the fault is somewhere else in
the device.

BTW, what is connectors 2 on CR4 and CR5?
Does somebody switch from 8 to 2 at some point?

Regards,
H.

This is also a problem. The original 1N1239 rectifiers only have
three pins on the bottom at locations 4, 6, and 8, and the 'key'.
There is no pin on the device at #2, but the two wires from the relay
switch pole that is NC (until the coil is powered) are tied to #2 the
socket. (It's not connected to chassis ground either, which might be
inferred by the schematic - they're just meaning that two wires are
tied to #2 on the socket, even though there is no pin on the 1N1239 at
that location.) I ordered newer replacements for these from
americanmicrosemiconductor.com - they were the only place on the
internet that had exact replacements for the '1N1239' Sarkes Tarzian
center tapped rectifier. HOWEVER, when the new replacements - that
look much more like a metal envelope vacuum tube than the originals -
they have all pins and are shorter, there's no 600V on the output.
Just a few millivolts of nothing. The newer units must be wired
differently than the originals. The 1N1239 was a replacement for the
5R4 vacuum tube rectifier; I also located another online vendor that
sells 'C-Cap' rectifier replacements and he states that his 5R4
replacement should work. I'm debating whether or not to order some to
test though, since the originals seem to be oddballs of some type.
And essentially what the relay does, is shunt resistor R5, as pins 2
and 8 seem to be looped no matter what position the relay is in. This
one is really a pain - I've never encountered a PS like this one...

All the "relay" does is to complete a low resistance path from the 600 V
voltage source, to the filter caps AFTER a time delay has (gently via
15k)
pre-charged the filter caps.

Disconnect the 600V lead from the PS to the Amp and see which way the
problem is. If the fuse still blows, trouble shoot the PS. You do have
a
voltmeter?

Yes, the weird part about this is that before doing any work on the
power supplies (i.e. everything working) the output voltages with no
load were around 17 on the 12.6 legs, -38 on the bias, 6.7 - 7.2 on
the 6.3 volt legs, and nearly 930V on the "600" output. I used a
Variac to bring things up slowly after doing the modifications to
check the output and it was nearly the same on all outputs (again, no
load). Hooked the cables up to the amp and used a Variac again, and
the 17 was pulled down to around 9.7 once under load, the -38 remained
about the same, the filament voltages were all within 6.3 - 7.1V, and
the plate side of the output transformer read about 500V, but once the
voltage got nearly up to full input voltage and the relay closed
(110-120) the 5A fuse popped. If I disconnect the 600V connection at
the amp - the fuse doesn't blow. The amps and components test fine
and no changes have been made there since everything was working.

One thought though, and I'm not sure if it makes sense or not; I
measured the resistance of the selenium I removed in the bias circuit
- which shares the "common" with the 600V supply - and it was about
1.4 Meg.

Measured in or out of the circuit? Forward or reverse? At what voltage
was
the resistance measured? It's been a while since I worked on anything
using
a selenium stack, but....... They age. The forward resistance goes up.
I
was not ever impressed with the reverse resistance, and 1.4 Meg might be
ok.
When changing them out with silicon, I always added a series resistor. As
I
recall, I commonly used about 300 Ohms for a 75 to 100 mA selenium
change-out, but 50 to 100 Ohms might be more appropriate for this PS


The resistance across the silicon diode I replaced it with
is only around 830K.

Forward voltage drop aside - is it possible that
since the new component doesn't have the same resistance
characteristic as the new that adding a "dropping resistor" per se
would increase the resistance and balance out the circuit? I've put a
1/2 watt 330K resistor in series with one of the 10A 600V diodes that
I used, and the resistance then measures around 1.4 Meg, but I doubt a
1/2 watt unit would stand up to the circuit load. I'd probably have
to have at least a 10W unit, and 330K in 10W is hard to locate. Does
this make sense? I'm running out of ideas with this thing... :/

The forward resistance of a typical silicon diode will be about 700 ohms to
1k ohm, measured on a typical analogue multimeter. Reverse resistance will
be, to all intents and purposes, infinity.

Reading again where you currently are, and how you got there, it seems that
before you started 'modifying' the rig, it worked. The only implication of
this is that the current problem must be down to something you have done
yourself. Looking at the sorts of values of resistor that you are trying to
work with, it is clear that your understanding of how this equipment should
work, is a little sketchy. Whilst tube based equipment is actually very
simple in design concept, and normally a breeze to troubleshoot, it is
actually quite 'specialist', and if you are not used to working on it,
regrettably, you may be getting yourself out of your depth on this one.

Unless you have a clear idea of exactly how to troubleshoot the problem, I
think that it might be time to abandon your efforts, and call in some
on-the-spot help. I'm not trying to deliberately put you off - or put you
down even - just offering some good honest advice with the experience of
many years at this.

Arfa

 

[Spamm Trappe]

On Wed, 16 Apr 2008 17:12:50 -0700 (PDT), ChrisCoaster wrote:

On Apr 16, 5:30?pm, "Michael A. Terrell" wrote:
ChrisCoaster wrote:

I have a degree in Managment Information Systems - I don't know
how to set up one once I've downloaded it!

Precisely why I walked away from a 31-year career in computers. Too
many 'Managment Information Systems Experts' showed up and ruined it
for me, my colleagues, and our customers

Scott Adams is not guilty of hyperbole.

 

[GregS]

In article <4b60dbed-ca8e-4983-9639-98cd1c087d05@s50g2000hsb.googlegroups.com>, GS <zekor@comcast.net> wrote:

On Apr 11, 10:55 am, rush14 <rus...@columbus.rr.com> wrote:
I'm wanting to install some solar powered landscape lights but I don't
like the orange colored LEDs or the bluish tint of the so called white
LEDs.

I was thinking of buying some of the solar lights advertised as super
bright white LEDs and replacing the LEDs with what are referred to as
super bright warm white LEDs. The low voltage powered lights are not
an option.

I welcome your thoughts and suggestions.

Thanks,
Rush

This may be a bit off topic but at least I'm not hawking Chinese made
handbags or porno videos.

I just received some neutral white LED's from LED Supply. I am really
happy with them. I got some Luxeon K2's and some 5mm Led's which were
about .90 ea. The K2's have a slighty different focus so different
lens is needed compared to the I,III, V types. warmer Led's don't have
the Lumens
output of the blue types, but the warm effect out ways the loss.

The built in lens on the K2 is different from the others. I was grinding the hard
plastic top off a V and noticed that the interior was soft and flexible. Now, the K2 is
made entirely of the flexible stuff. Feels like silicone.

greg

 

[GregS]

In article <4b60dbed-ca8e-4983-9639-98cd1c087d05@s50g2000hsb.googlegroups.com>, GS <zekor@comcast.net> wrote:

On Apr 11, 10:55 am, rush14 <rus...@columbus.rr.com> wrote:
I'm wanting to install some solar powered landscape lights but I don't
like the orange colored LEDs or the bluish tint of the so called white
LEDs.

I was thinking of buying some of the solar lights advertised as super
bright white LEDs and replacing the LEDs with what are referred to as
super bright warm white LEDs. The low voltage powered lights are not
an option.

I welcome your thoughts and suggestions.

Thanks,
Rush

This may be a bit off topic but at least I'm not hawking Chinese made
handbags or porno videos.

I just received some neutral white LED's from LED Supply. I am really
happy with them. I got some Luxeon K2's and some 5mm Led's which were
about .90 ea. The K2's have a slighty different focus so different
lens is needed compared to the I,III, V types. warmer Led's don't have
the Lumens
output of the blue types, but the warm effect out ways the loss.

The built in lens on the K2 is different from the others. I was grinding the hard
plastic top off a V and noticed that the interior was soft and flexible. Now, the K2 is
made entirely of the flexible stuff. Feels like silicone.

greg

 

[bz]

Mike WB2MEP <michael.w.appenzeller@lmco.com> wrote in
news:857cc04b-4035-418c-b2b9-48a7bfaa0042@s50g2000hsb.googlegroups.com:

On Apr 15, 10:49 pm, "James Sweet" <jamessw...@hotmail.com> wrote:
You may as well preach that to a pile of rocks, I doubt many people who
ar
e
still using google groups are ever gonna figure it out.- Hide quoted
text
-

- Show quoted text -

If any of you know of a way other than Google Groups to access usenet
that doesn't require
NNTP access I'm all ears... I got an account at Motzarella.org, a free
news server mentioned
in an earlier thread, and have not been able to access their server.
I spent two evenings
going back and forth with their tech support guy, who was very
helpful, gave me alternate
ports to try, direct IP addresses to try via Telnet, pinging their
servers, nothing worked -
"Cannot Access Server". "Details" showed a Code of 800ccc0e in every
case. (using OE)
Finally gave up figuring the ports were being blocked by the firewall
on my end.
Tried Giganews tonight. Did'nt sign up for an account, but configured
OE to access their
server. I figured I should get a Login Failed if I tried to log in
without an account there,
but got the same Cannot Access Server error in OE. At this point I
wouldn't mind a
paid account, the rates are pretty reasonable, but I don't want to pay
for an account and
be unable to access their server. Any ideas?

Mike WB2MEP

You are paying YOUR ISP for service. Check with their tech support.

They may be blocking NNTP ports for some reason. Do you run a
router/firewall? It may be set up to block everything but outgoing port 80
and responses.

--
bz 73 de N5BZ k

please pardon my infinite ignorance, the set-of-things-I-do-not-know is an
infinite set.

bz+ser@ch100-5.chem.lsu.edu remove ch100-5 to avoid spam trap

 

[bz]

Mike WB2MEP <michael.w.appenzeller@lmco.com> wrote in
news:857cc04b-4035-418c-b2b9-48a7bfaa0042@s50g2000hsb.googlegroups.com:

On Apr 15, 10:49 pm, "James Sweet" <jamessw...@hotmail.com> wrote:
You may as well preach that to a pile of rocks, I doubt many people who
ar
e
still using google groups are ever gonna figure it out.- Hide quoted
text
-

- Show quoted text -

If any of you know of a way other than Google Groups to access usenet
that doesn't require
NNTP access I'm all ears... I got an account at Motzarella.org, a free
news server mentioned
in an earlier thread, and have not been able to access their server.
I spent two evenings
going back and forth with their tech support guy, who was very
helpful, gave me alternate
ports to try, direct IP addresses to try via Telnet, pinging their
servers, nothing worked -
"Cannot Access Server". "Details" showed a Code of 800ccc0e in every
case. (using OE)
Finally gave up figuring the ports were being blocked by the firewall
on my end.
Tried Giganews tonight. Did'nt sign up for an account, but configured
OE to access their
server. I figured I should get a Login Failed if I tried to log in
without an account there,
but got the same Cannot Access Server error in OE. At this point I
wouldn't mind a
paid account, the rates are pretty reasonable, but I don't want to pay
for an account and
be unable to access their server. Any ideas?

Mike WB2MEP

You are paying YOUR ISP for service. Check with their tech support.

They may be blocking NNTP ports for some reason. Do you run a
router/firewall? It may be set up to block everything but outgoing port 80
and responses.

--
bz 73 de N5BZ k

please pardon my infinite ignorance, the set-of-things-I-do-not-know is an
infinite set.

bz+ser@ch100-5.chem.lsu.edu remove ch100-5 to avoid spam trap

 

[bz]

"pipedown" <pipedown@nowhere.net> wrote in news:%vsNj.1821$pS4.1264
@newssvr13.news.prodigy.net:

wise to use 12VDC
lamps and avoid an inverter alltogether)

Unless the runs to the lamps are long, in which case IR losses would be
much higher(or cable costs higher)
at 12 V than 110 V.




--
bz

please pardon my infinite ignorance, the set-of-things-I-do-not-know is an
infinite set.

bz+spr@ch100-5.chem.lsu.edu remove ch100-5 to avoid spam trap

 

[bz]

"pipedown" <pipedown@nowhere.net> wrote in news:%vsNj.1821$pS4.1264
@newssvr13.news.prodigy.net:

wise to use 12VDC
lamps and avoid an inverter alltogether)

Unless the runs to the lamps are long, in which case IR losses would be
much higher(or cable costs higher)
at 12 V than 110 V.




--
bz

please pardon my infinite ignorance, the set-of-things-I-do-not-know is an
infinite set.

bz+spr@ch100-5.chem.lsu.edu remove ch100-5 to avoid spam trap

 

[James Sweet]

"bz" <bz+spr@ch100-5.chem.lsu.edu> wrote in message
news:Xns9A834E0111CEEWQAHBGMXSZHVspammote@130.39.198.139...

"pipedown" <pipedown@nowhere.net> wrote in news:%vsNj.1821$pS4.1264
@newssvr13.news.prodigy.net:

wise to use 12VDC
lamps and avoid an inverter alltogether)

Unless the runs to the lamps are long, in which case IR losses would be
much higher(or cable costs higher)
at 12 V than 110 V.

Even short runs at those power levels would have unacceptable losses unless
you used massive copper welding cable or something.

 

[GregS]

In article <P4LNj.6846$eg2.598@trndny06>, "James Sweet" <jamessweet@hotmail.com> wrote:

"bz" <bz+spr@ch100-5.chem.lsu.edu> wrote in message
news:Xns9A834E0111CEEWQAHBGMXSZHVspammote@130.39.198.139...
"pipedown" <pipedown@nowhere.net> wrote in news:%vsNj.1821$pS4.1264
@newssvr13.news.prodigy.net:

wise to use 12VDC
lamps and avoid an inverter alltogether)

Unless the runs to the lamps are long, in which case IR losses would be
much higher(or cable costs higher)
at 12 V than 110 V.



Even short runs at those power levels would have unacceptable losses unless
you used massive copper welding cable or something.

The orginal poster must have spammed the groups. Stop this thread, allthough
its interesting. Lets see, the poster also used the group alt.obituaries
I thought it was weird when the poster never came back, so I searched Google Groups.


greg

 

[Kadaitcha Man]

<radiant_x@outgun.com> wrote in message
news:293e3140-e027-496c-89d8-27906e8991f7@t54g2000hsg.googlegroups.com...

I recently installed a DVD drive into my PC. (2 days ago.) Since then,
I get spontaneous power loss periodically - sometimes seconds after
booting, other times after hours of operation. I've tried replacing
the power supply, and I've tried removing all my hardware (other than
RAM), so I'm thinking it must be motherboard related.

Interestingly, trying to turn the machine back on does nothing.
HOWEVER...if I physically unplug the PC, and leave it off for a few
seconds, I then *can* reboot it. Looking inside the case, I notice a
green LED. When this goes out (after unplugging) it signals that I can
now successfully reboot. If I try to reboot before the light goes out
(about a 2 second wait) the reboot fails. I'm assuming the LED is
showing power remaining on the motherboard due to capacitors. I don't
know if that's a hint towards a solution?

Also, when I reboot, most (but not all) of the time the bios has been
reset as well.

Now the questions I've got are:
1) Why? I've installed drives dozens of times, and never had anything
like this.
2) How do I fix it? Presumably a new motherboard will do the trick,
though I'd like to a) confirm that's the cause and b) fix the existing
MB, if at all possible. (Historically, every time I've tried to
replace a MB I've ended up having to replace the entire PC. Apparently
my skills don't lie in that direction!)

Is there any chance I can salvage this board? I have no idea if
replacing the onboard battery, flashing the bios, or any of these
arcane things will do anything to help, or if it's physically broken
and needs a part replaced?

A electrician friend tells me he thinks a
capacitor may have gone

LMAO

but looking at the MB, none of them appear to
be swollen or leaking.

thanks a lot! any advice is appreciated!

After all that waffle and piffle, you never even once conidered removing the
fucking DVD drive. Right?

--
alt.usenet.kooks
"We are arrant knaves all, believe none of us."
Hamlet, Act 3, Scene 1 [129]

Hammer of Thor: February 2007. Pierre Salinger Memorial Hook,
Line & Sinker: September 2005, April 2006, January 2007.
Official Member: Cabal Obsidian Order COOSN-124-07-06660
Official Overseer of Kooks & Trolls in 24hoursupport.helpdesk

Member of:
Usenet Ruiner List
Top Assholes on the Net List
Most hated usenetizens of all time List
Cog in the AUK Hate Machine

Find me on Google Maps: 24°39'47.13"S, 134°4'20.18"E

 

[Kadaitcha Man]

<radiant_x@outgun.com> wrote in message
news:293e3140-e027-496c-89d8-27906e8991f7@t54g2000hsg.googlegroups.com...

I recently installed a DVD drive into my PC. (2 days ago.) Since then,
I get spontaneous power loss periodically - sometimes seconds after
booting, other times after hours of operation. I've tried replacing
the power supply, and I've tried removing all my hardware (other than
RAM), so I'm thinking it must be motherboard related.

Interestingly, trying to turn the machine back on does nothing.
HOWEVER...if I physically unplug the PC, and leave it off for a few
seconds, I then *can* reboot it. Looking inside the case, I notice a
green LED. When this goes out (after unplugging) it signals that I can
now successfully reboot. If I try to reboot before the light goes out
(about a 2 second wait) the reboot fails. I'm assuming the LED is
showing power remaining on the motherboard due to capacitors. I don't
know if that's a hint towards a solution?

Also, when I reboot, most (but not all) of the time the bios has been
reset as well.

Now the questions I've got are:
1) Why? I've installed drives dozens of times, and never had anything
like this.
2) How do I fix it? Presumably a new motherboard will do the trick,
though I'd like to a) confirm that's the cause and b) fix the existing
MB, if at all possible. (Historically, every time I've tried to
replace a MB I've ended up having to replace the entire PC. Apparently
my skills don't lie in that direction!)

Is there any chance I can salvage this board? I have no idea if
replacing the onboard battery, flashing the bios, or any of these
arcane things will do anything to help, or if it's physically broken
and needs a part replaced?

A electrician friend tells me he thinks a
capacitor may have gone

LMAO

but looking at the MB, none of them appear to
be swollen or leaking.

thanks a lot! any advice is appreciated!

After all that waffle and piffle, you never even once conidered removing the
fucking DVD drive. Right?

--
alt.usenet.kooks
"We are arrant knaves all, believe none of us."
Hamlet, Act 3, Scene 1 [129]

Hammer of Thor: February 2007. Pierre Salinger Memorial Hook,
Line & Sinker: September 2005, April 2006, January 2007.
Official Member: Cabal Obsidian Order COOSN-124-07-06660
Official Overseer of Kooks & Trolls in 24hoursupport.helpdesk

Member of:
Usenet Ruiner List
Top Assholes on the Net List
Most hated usenetizens of all time List
Cog in the AUK Hate Machine

Find me on Google Maps: 24°39'47.13"S, 134°4'20.18"E

 

[Dr.Hal0nf1rŁ$]

John "C" wrote:

"Kadaitcha Man" <nospam.nospam.nospam@gmail.com> wrote in message

Right?

Yes, Ricky!

John C.

Welcome to the the K-Man & John 'C' Show

- Featuring the Kadaitcha Man and his yes-man; John 'C'.

<applause>

--
http://www.kustomkomputa.co.uk
- Personalised Desktop Computers

 

[Kadaitcha Man]

"Dr.Hal0nf1rŁ$" <femail@nospam.kustomkomputa.co.uk.invalid> wrote in message
news:87-dner0Rf5BdprVnZ2dnUVZ8gidnZ2d@bt.com...

John "C" wrote:
"Kadaitcha Man" <nospam.nospam.nospam@gmail.com> wrote in message

Right?

Yes, Ricky!

John C.

Welcome to the the K-Man & John 'C' Show

- Featuring the Kadaitcha Man and his yes-man; John 'C'.

Correction.

Welcome to the John 'C' Show

- Featuring Kadaitcha Man stalker, John 'C'.

I have the cunt plonked. As you no doubt see, there is no benefit to reading
any of his tripe.

--
alt.usenet.kooks
"We are arrant knaves all, believe none of us."
Hamlet, Act 3, Scene 1 [129]

Hammer of Thor: February 2007. Pierre Salinger Memorial Hook,
Line & Sinker: September 2005, April 2006, January 2007.
Official Member: Cabal Obsidian Order COOSN-124-07-06660
Official Overseer of Kooks & Trolls in 24hoursupport.helpdesk

Member of:
Usenet Ruiner List
Top Assholes on the Net List
Most hated usenetizens of all time List
Cog in the AUK Hate Machine

Find me on Google Maps: 24°39'47.13"S, 134°4'20.18"E

 

[Kadaitcha Man]

"Aratzio" <a6ahlyv02@sneakemail.com> wrote in message
news:881g045qjb7f7ft9ff7fia7eb0d61ubc43@4ax.com...

On Fri, 18 Apr 2008 11:23:44 +1000, in the land of alt.usenet.kooks,
"Kadaitcha Man" <nospam.nospam.nospam@gmail.com> got double secret
probation for writing:

"Dr.Hal0nf1rŁ$" <femail@nospam.kustomkomputa.co.uk.invalid> wrote in
message
news:87-dner0Rf5BdprVnZ2dnUVZ8gidnZ2d@bt.com...
John "C" wrote:
"Kadaitcha Man" <nospam.nospam.nospam@gmail.com> wrote in message

Right?

Yes, Ricky!

John C.

Welcome to the the K-Man & John 'C' Show

- Featuring the Kadaitcha Man and his yes-man; John 'C'.


Correction.

Welcome to the John 'C' Show

- Featuring Kadaitcha Man stalker, John 'C'.

I have the cunt plonked. As you no doubt see, there is no benefit to
reading
any of his tripe.

*PLONK*

HA! FOILEDED!!!1! I HACE MORFED!!!1!

--
alt.usenet.kooks
"We are arrant knaves all, believe none of us."
Hamlet, Act 3, Scene 1 [129]

Hammer of Thor: February 2007. Pierre Salinger Memorial Hook,
Line & Sinker: September 2005, April 2006, January 2007.
Official Member: Cabal Obsidian Order COOSN-124-07-06660
Official Overseer of Kooks & Trolls in 24hoursupport.helpdesk

Member of:
Usenet Ruiner List
Top Assholes on the Net List
Most hated usenetizens of all time List
Cog in the AUK Hate Machine

Find me on Google Maps: 24°39'47.13"S, 134°4'20.18"E

 

[James Sweet]

"Robert LaCasse" <yamaha@here.info> wrote in message
news:363g04hkpo3a73a4ov8b2koh6vhp5t3dtv@4ax.com...

Hi!

I tested some battery chargers last night , and found "as usual"
that the amps and voltages stated on the modules were not the same as what
I
found on the Volt and Amp testers....

Some 12v charging modules, would say 1.5 amp, whereas the voltage
test was 12-->17v and/or 4-->6amps on the meters....

All the "Walwart" max output 800ma (.8A) with 3 volts selected
showed 2amps on the amp meter, and almost 4amps at the 12v setting. The
inline charging modules were pretty much the same...

I have a 12v 8Ah MF SLA battery to charge at .8amp and I can't get
anything to charge as low as .8 amp from the walwarts.......when I do,
nothing happens for days, as far volt checks are concerned...

The charging volts are not higher than 12.4 volts on any of the
chargers....

Some ppl discard this discrepancy with the volts compensate for the
current, expression, but does it really, if a low charging amp can't be
achieved? I don't want to buckle cells or dehydrate the $240 MF SLA
battery.

Your post doesn't make a whole lot of sense.

You need more than 12.4V to charge a 12V battery. If you want to limit the
current, use an LM317 wired as a constant current source, choose the
resistors accordingly to set 800mA.

 

[James Sweet]

"Michael A. Terrell" <mike.terrell@earthlink.net> wrote in message
news:q_KdndwWoIbOXZXVnZ2dnUVZ_rLinZ2d@earthlink.com...

plexter wrote:

Hey I have a svat giga extreme 5000 wireless camera. states that it is
indoor however while not raining/cold outside I should be able to use
to monitor the kids/dogs outdoors as I am working in my office. only
prob is that it is a b/w camera which is fine but outdoors it is way
too bright. should there be any adj on the inside to adj the
brightness ? Can hardly make anything out besides objects that are
really dark. I can only see my lab not my samoide that is pure white.


If the lens doesn't have an adjustable shutter, it is useless
outdoors. You are flooding the CCD with more light than it can handle.


--
http://improve-usenet.org/index.html


Use any search engine other than Google till they stop polluting USENET
with porn and junk commercial SPAM

Just put a tinted filter in front of it, that should do the trick.

 

[Butch Haynes]

<radiant_x@outgun.com> wrote in message
news:293e3140-e027-496c-89d8-27906e8991f7@t54g2000hsg.googlegroups.com...
\>I recently installed a DVD drive into my PC. (2 days ago.) Since then,

I get spontaneous power loss periodically - sometimes seconds after
booting, other times after hours of operation. I've tried replacing
the power supply, and I've tried removing all my hardware (other than
RAM), so I'm thinking it must be motherboard related.

Unplug/replug all power and data connections. That way, the errant loose one
will be fixed and your problem will be resolved.

 

[Butch Haynes]

<radiant_x@outgun.com> wrote in message
news:293e3140-e027-496c-89d8-27906e8991f7@t54g2000hsg.googlegroups.com...
\>I recently installed a DVD drive into my PC. (2 days ago.) Since then,

I get spontaneous power loss periodically - sometimes seconds after
booting, other times after hours of operation. I've tried replacing
the power supply, and I've tried removing all my hardware (other than
RAM), so I'm thinking it must be motherboard related.

Unplug/replug all power and data connections. That way, the errant loose one
will be fixed and your problem will be resolved.

 

[§ńühw¤Łf]

"John \"C\"" <honestjohn@centurytel.net> clouded the waters of pure thought with:

"§ńühw¤Łf" <snuhwolf@netscape.net> wrote in message
news:20080418092201.4d7d833c@vector...
On Fri, 18 Apr 2008 11:23:44 +1000
"Kadaitcha Man" <nospam.nospam.nospam@gmail.com> wrote:

"Dr.Hal0nf1rŁ$" <femail@nospam.kustomkomputa.co.uk.invalid> wrote in
message
news:87-dner0Rf5BdprVnZ2dnUVZ8gidnZ2d@bt.com...
John "C" wrote:
"Kadaitcha Man" <nospam.nospam.nospam@gmail.com> wrote in message

Right?

Yes, Ricky!

John C.

Welcome to the the K-Man & John 'C' Show

- Featuring the Kadaitcha Man and his yes-man; John 'C'.


Correction.

Welcome to the John 'C' Show

- Featuring Kadaitcha Man stalker, John 'C'.

I have the cunt plonked. As you no doubt see, there is no benefit to
reading
any of his tripe.


Actually there *is*
I got him to fess up to being a WIFE BEATER.
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
As per Arkansas Law.

So your defence of your action is that if its legal its also moral?

I beg to differ.

--
www.ohmproject.org