C
Charles
Guest
http://www.amazon.com/Electronics-Principles-Applications-MultiSIM-CD-ROM/dp/0078309778/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&s=books&qid=1208642336&sr=1-2
T
Timberwoof
Guest
In article <r1rOj.52$NK1.25@trndny05>,
"James Sweet" <jamessweet@hotmail.com> wrote:
ohms across its test leads.
--
Timberwoof <me at timberwoof dot com>
faq: http://www.timberwoof.com/motorcycle/faq.shtml
Ten Steps to Fascism: http://www.guardian.co.uk/usa/story/0,,2064157,00.html
"James Sweet" <jamessweet@hotmail.com> wrote:
Or blow a fuse or the shunt in your ammeter. An ideal ammeter has zero
ohms across its test leads.
--
Timberwoof <me at timberwoof dot com>
faq: http://www.timberwoof.com/motorcycle/faq.shtml
Ten Steps to Fascism: http://www.guardian.co.uk/usa/story/0,,2064157,00.html
J
James Sweet
Guest
"Timberwoof" <timberwoof.spam@infernosoft.com> wrote in message
news:timberwoof.spam-987E7C.16074519042008@nnrp-virt.nntp.sonic.net...
that a transformer can produce into a short circuit. If a 1A transformer
manages 6A for a few moments into a short, and the ammeter is good for 10A,
it won't blow a fuse or shunt in the meter.
news:timberwoof.spam-987E7C.16074519042008@nnrp-virt.nntp.sonic.net...
But only if the meter is not capable of measuring the absolute max current
that a transformer can produce into a short circuit. If a 1A transformer
manages 6A for a few moments into a short, and the ammeter is good for 10A,
it won't blow a fuse or shunt in the meter.
D
DaveM
Guest
"EADGBE" <hwbosshoss@comcast.net> wrote in message
news:67717a13-6234-4847-aa72-bb57663b9fcb@s50g2000hsb.googlegroups.com...
The only path that can supply the current to Q206 is through the E-C circuit of
Q205.
The voltages around Q205 are the clues to your problem. Find out why Q205 isn't
conducting and you'll find the problem.
--
Dave M
MasonDG44 at comcast dot net (Just substitute the appropriate characters in the
address)
Some people are like Slinkies. Not really good for anything, but they bring a
smile to your face when pushed down the stairs.
news:67717a13-6234-4847-aa72-bb57663b9fcb@s50g2000hsb.googlegroups.com...
Yes, you're right... I should have said
The only path that can supply the current to Q206 is through the E-C circuit of
Q205.
The voltages around Q205 are the clues to your problem. Find out why Q205 isn't
conducting and you'll find the problem.
--
Dave M
MasonDG44 at comcast dot net (Just substitute the appropriate characters in the
address)
Some people are like Slinkies. Not really good for anything, but they bring a
smile to your face when pushed down the stairs.
D
DaveM
Guest
"EADGBE" <hwbosshoss@comcast.net> wrote in message
news:67717a13-6234-4847-aa72-bb57663b9fcb@s50g2000hsb.googlegroups.com...
The only path that can supply the current to Q206 is through the E-C circuit of
Q205.
The voltages around Q205 are the clues to your problem. Find out why Q205 isn't
conducting and you'll find the problem.
--
Dave M
MasonDG44 at comcast dot net (Just substitute the appropriate characters in the
address)
Some people are like Slinkies. Not really good for anything, but they bring a
smile to your face when pushed down the stairs.
news:67717a13-6234-4847-aa72-bb57663b9fcb@s50g2000hsb.googlegroups.com...
Yes, you're right... I should have said
The only path that can supply the current to Q206 is through the E-C circuit of
Q205.
The voltages around Q205 are the clues to your problem. Find out why Q205 isn't
conducting and you'll find the problem.
--
Dave M
MasonDG44 at comcast dot net (Just substitute the appropriate characters in the
address)
Some people are like Slinkies. Not really good for anything, but they bring a
smile to your face when pushed down the stairs.
G
Gareth Magennis
Guest
"Sam Goldwasser" <sam@minus.seas.upenn.edu> wrote in message
news:6w4p9xidem.fsf@minus.seas.upenn.edu...
Yes, not nearly as expensive as the possible damage caused by a stalled worn
out fan that soemone tried to bodge back to working condition instead of
replacing it. I'm thinking Power Amps, computer chips, or any gear that
someone has paid you to fix properly.
Gareth.
Gareth.
news:6w4p9xidem.fsf@minus.seas.upenn.edu...
Yes, not nearly as expensive as the possible damage caused by a stalled worn
out fan that soemone tried to bodge back to working condition instead of
replacing it. I'm thinking Power Amps, computer chips, or any gear that
someone has paid you to fix properly.
Gareth.
Gareth.
G
Gareth Magennis
Guest
"Sam Goldwasser" <sam@minus.seas.upenn.edu> wrote in message
news:6w4p9xidem.fsf@minus.seas.upenn.edu...
Yes, not nearly as expensive as the possible damage caused by a stalled worn
out fan that soemone tried to bodge back to working condition instead of
replacing it. I'm thinking Power Amps, computer chips, or any gear that
someone has paid you to fix properly.
Gareth.
Gareth.
news:6w4p9xidem.fsf@minus.seas.upenn.edu...
Yes, not nearly as expensive as the possible damage caused by a stalled worn
out fan that soemone tried to bodge back to working condition instead of
replacing it. I'm thinking Power Amps, computer chips, or any gear that
someone has paid you to fix properly.
Gareth.
Gareth.
W
William Sommerwerck
Guest
Uh... pull them off with your fingers.
The advantage of "doing it by hand" is that you can gently flex, angle, or
twist the connector as you judge fit.
The advantage of "doing it by hand" is that you can gently flex, angle, or
twist the connector as you judge fit.
S
Smitty Two
Guest
In article <pan.2008.04.20.15.05.15.615138@invalid.nospam>,
Doug Smith W9WI <w9wi@invalid.nospam> wrote:
the connector off the header fairly readily. How about a couple of
pictures of the device in question?
Doug Smith W9WI <w9wi@invalid.nospam> wrote:
I'd be looking for a latch. Once released, you should be able to pull
the connector off the header fairly readily. How about a couple of
pictures of the device in question?
S
Smitty Two
Guest
In article <pan.2008.04.20.15.05.15.615138@invalid.nospam>,
Doug Smith W9WI <w9wi@invalid.nospam> wrote:
the connector off the header fairly readily. How about a couple of
pictures of the device in question?
Doug Smith W9WI <w9wi@invalid.nospam> wrote:
I'd be looking for a latch. Once released, you should be able to pull
the connector off the header fairly readily. How about a couple of
pictures of the device in question?
F
Frank S
Guest
I spent some time in Sweden, where it is 220 single phase 50 HZ. In the US,
it is 120V 60 HZ single phase. there is a hot a neutral and ground (earth).
You can wire up "stuff" for 220, which is still single phase (is you go
across both sides and not reference ground). Some co-workers Sweden used the
electric dryer socket to get the power they needed for some of their
"stuff". Most electronics use switching supplies, so they will work from 100
to 250 VAC.
As for the outlet, the at it, there are 3 holes the one on the left is
neutral (the return) which is a bigger blade so it can't be plugged into the
hot lead. the hot is on the right, and ground (earth) is the round one on
the bottom.
On 220 outlets, they look like this
__ __
O the 2 at the top are 220, the bottom is earth
Good Luck
Frank
"Ron Eggler" <ron@example.com> wrote in message
news:kDKOj.76529$rd2.48980@pd7urf3no...
it is 120V 60 HZ single phase. there is a hot a neutral and ground (earth).
You can wire up "stuff" for 220, which is still single phase (is you go
across both sides and not reference ground). Some co-workers Sweden used the
electric dryer socket to get the power they needed for some of their
"stuff". Most electronics use switching supplies, so they will work from 100
to 250 VAC.
As for the outlet, the at it, there are 3 holes the one on the left is
neutral (the return) which is a bigger blade so it can't be plugged into the
hot lead. the hot is on the right, and ground (earth) is the round one on
the bottom.
On 220 outlets, they look like this
__ __
O the 2 at the top are 220, the bottom is earth
Good Luck
Frank
"Ron Eggler" <ron@example.com> wrote in message
news:kDKOj.76529$rd2.48980@pd7urf3no...
D
Dr.Hal0nf1rŁ$
Guest
§ńühw¤Łf wrote:
--
http://www.kustomkomputa.co.uk
- Personalised Desktop Computers
Try steel toe caps.
--
http://www.kustomkomputa.co.uk
- Personalised Desktop Computers
J
Jerry Peters
Guest
Jeff, WB8NHV <jeffhs@ameritech.net> wrote:
it's a function of the design. They do not crash into the platters.
Jerry
The heads on modern HD's automatically retract when power is removed,On Apr 17, 8:51 pm, cuhu...@webtv.net wrote:
Your DVD drive could be defective.So could that second power drive
tone of the worst things to do with a computer is to physically
unplug that computer without properly shutting the computer down first.
cuhulin
I agree. Shutting a computer down by simply unplugging it (a method
I call "brute force") rather than using the correct shutdown procedure
can and often does corrupt the operating system, requiring that the
entire OS be reinstalled--not to mention all your application programs
you may have installed at the time. Most of the time the computer will
go into safe mode if it is shut down other than by the recommended
procedure, but I wouldn't count on it. I don't even remember how many
times my first Windows computer (running Win95) crashed and corrupted
the operating system when I tried to shut down the system with the
brute force technique. (I don't do that anymore with my current
Win98SE system unless I have to, say if the computer freezes and
absolutely cannot be shut down normally; live and learn.) Another
problem with shutting down simply by pulling the plug is that the hard
drive may have errors on it when the system is restarted; many if not
most Windows computers are set up by default to scan the hard disk as
soon as the system boots after a crash. The system can be set to
repair automatically any errors thus found.
Still another potentially fatal (for the computer) problem created by
the act of shutting down without following the correct procedure is
that the read/write heads of the hard disk will literally crash into
the disk, again with the potential for disk errors when the system
is rebooted. These crashes will eventually ruin your hard drive, so it
is best to avoid them if possible. Occasional disk crashes are
inevitable (power outages, for example), but here I am speaking of
unnecessary hard disk crashes caused by incorrect shutdowns; for
maximum trouble-free life of your hard disk, please, for gosh sakes
use the Windows-recommended shutdown method. This can be accessed
directly from the Start menu by clicking on "Shut Down" and selecting
the option of the same name from the menu which appears, or by doing
the so-called "three-finger salute", i.e. pressing Ctrl+Alt+Delete
while the computer is powered up.
it's a function of the design. They do not crash into the platters.
Jerry
D
Dave Plowman (News)
Guest
In article
<e3095ed1-b4b0-4f82-930c-fb13c1538056@59g2000hsb.googlegroups.com>,
hr(bob) hofmann@att.net <hrhofmann@att.net> wrote:
managed with a small battery amp and speaker.
--
*White with a hint of M42*
Dave Plowman dave@davenoise.co.uk London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.
<e3095ed1-b4b0-4f82-930c-fb13c1538056@59g2000hsb.googlegroups.com>,
hr(bob) hofmann@att.net <hrhofmann@att.net> wrote:
That's an expensive way - although of course a good one. For many years I
managed with a small battery amp and speaker.
--
*White with a hint of M42*
Dave Plowman dave@davenoise.co.uk London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.
J
James Sweet
Guest
"Gareth Magennis" <sound.service@btconnect.com> wrote in message
news:REDOj.66699$kN5.11819@newsfe1-gui.ntli.net...
Doesn't sound like anyone has paid him to fix it, the assumption is that
it's his own stuff that he's fixing himself. I've been known to repair these
little fans so I can keep using my PC until I can find a suitable
replacement. Some graphics chipsets use oddball custom heatsink/fan
assemblies that are difficult to find replacements for.
news:REDOj.66699$kN5.11819@newsfe1-gui.ntli.net...
Doesn't sound like anyone has paid him to fix it, the assumption is that
it's his own stuff that he's fixing himself. I've been known to repair these
little fans so I can keep using my PC until I can find a suitable
replacement. Some graphics chipsets use oddball custom heatsink/fan
assemblies that are difficult to find replacements for.
A
Arfa Daily
Guest
"EricM" <ew_morr@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:718c5d71-0c0f-417c-a96d-eec1434dedfc@a23g2000hsc.googlegroups.com...
Arfa
news:718c5d71-0c0f-417c-a96d-eec1434dedfc@a23g2000hsc.googlegroups.com...
Is the buzz affected by the volume control ?
Arfa
A
Arfa Daily
Guest
"EricM" <ew_morr@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:718c5d71-0c0f-417c-a96d-eec1434dedfc@a23g2000hsc.googlegroups.com...
Arfa
news:718c5d71-0c0f-417c-a96d-eec1434dedfc@a23g2000hsc.googlegroups.com...
Is the buzz affected by the volume control ?
Arfa
I
isw
Guest
In article <pan.2008.04.20.15.05.15.615138@invalid.nospam>,
Doug Smith W9WI <w9wi@invalid.nospam> wrote:
connector bite into the pin; they *must* be removed by pulling the
plastic body, which causes the connectors to unlatch.
If you're sure that's *not* what you have, try grasping all the wires at
once and "rocking" the connector back and forth along the long axis
while pulling -- but don't rock so far that you bend the pins.
Isaac
Doug Smith W9WI <w9wi@invalid.nospam> wrote:
There are anti-vibration connectors in which pulling the wires makes the
connector bite into the pin; they *must* be removed by pulling the
plastic body, which causes the connectors to unlatch.
If you're sure that's *not* what you have, try grasping all the wires at
once and "rocking" the connector back and forth along the long axis
while pulling -- but don't rock so far that you bend the pins.
Isaac
I
isw
Guest
In article <pan.2008.04.20.15.05.15.615138@invalid.nospam>,
Doug Smith W9WI <w9wi@invalid.nospam> wrote:
connector bite into the pin; they *must* be removed by pulling the
plastic body, which causes the connectors to unlatch.
If you're sure that's *not* what you have, try grasping all the wires at
once and "rocking" the connector back and forth along the long axis
while pulling -- but don't rock so far that you bend the pins.
Isaac
Doug Smith W9WI <w9wi@invalid.nospam> wrote:
There are anti-vibration connectors in which pulling the wires makes the
connector bite into the pin; they *must* be removed by pulling the
plastic body, which causes the connectors to unlatch.
If you're sure that's *not* what you have, try grasping all the wires at
once and "rocking" the connector back and forth along the long axis
while pulling -- but don't rock so far that you bend the pins.
Isaac
B
bz
Guest
Doug Smith W9WI <w9wi@invalid.nospam> wrote in
newsan.2008.04.21.02.20.44.588449@invalid.nospam:
such as http://www.crawfordtool.com/knipex_duckbill.html
Wiggle gently while pulling on the brown part of the connector.
--
bz 73 de N5BZ k
please pardon my infinite ignorance, the set-of-things-I-do-not-know is an
infinite set.
bz+ser@ch100-5.chem.lsu.edu remove ch100-5 to avoid spam trap
news
an.2008.04.21.02.20.44.588449@invalid.nospam:use a pair of pliers that is wide enough to get the width of the connector.
such as http://www.crawfordtool.com/knipex_duckbill.html
Wiggle gently while pulling on the brown part of the connector.
--
bz 73 de N5BZ k
please pardon my infinite ignorance, the set-of-things-I-do-not-know is an
infinite set.
bz+ser@ch100-5.chem.lsu.edu remove ch100-5 to avoid spam trap