Toshiba TV29C90 problem; Image fades to black...

Donna Ohl wrote:
On Sun, 16 Mar 2008 23:21:38 GMT, James Sweet wrote:
Where would the tub filter be?
Usually there isn't a filter. Is it a single or three knob? Usually you can
remove the whole cartridge from the valve and clean it out.

Hi James,
Here is a picture of the tub.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/donnaohl

It is a "single".
http://www.flickr.com/photos/donnaohl/2279157295/

Are you saying the filter is behind the hot/cold selector knob?
http://www.flickr.com/photos/donnaohl/2279157299/

Donna
Naw, the whole mess gets clogged up. You need to disassemble it (turn
the water OFF first). If it's more than a few years old--or even if it
isn't, it wouldn't hurt--get a 'kit' of replacement parts from your
local dealer first. Usually there's nothing to maintaining these 'one
handle' units (not familiar with your particular one) besides
disassembly/reassembly with new rubber anyway. Save you the trouble
down the road. Take a picture, or the old parts for exact replacements.

Once you have it apart, turn on the water slightly to flush it out.
Turn it off again and reassemble after cleaning and replacing the old
rubber/plastic that came with the new kit.

After what you've been through, this should be a piece of cake....

jak
jak
 
"Donna Ohl" <donna.ohl@sbcglobal.net> wrote in message
news:esjDj.3534$Rq1.2176@nlpi068.nbdc.sbc.com...
On Sun, 16 Mar 2008 23:21:38 GMT, James Sweet wrote:
Where would the tub filter be?

Usually there isn't a filter. Is it a single or three knob? Usually you
can
remove the whole cartridge from the valve and clean it out.

Hi James,
Here is a picture of the tub.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/donnaohl

It is a "single".
http://www.flickr.com/photos/donnaohl/2279157295/

Are you saying the filter is behind the hot/cold selector knob?
http://www.flickr.com/photos/donnaohl/2279157299/

Donna
Yep, that looks very much like the Moen my mom's place has, I just replaced
the leaking cartridge in that a couple months ago. Remove the handle, remove
the fascia, and then there's a clip you pull out and the cartridge pulls
out. Turn the water supply off first!
 
On Mon, 18 Feb 2008 12:26:44 -0500, Meat Plow wrote:
I can't believe this thread is still going after what three weeks?
Hi Meat Plow,

There are more questions now, after having done the job, than there were in
the beginning, even though I read a dozen how to's, I posted my
step-by-step guide, I read a half-dozen PDFs on specifications, etc.

It seems all the required information is not in any one place (yet).

For example, unanswered questions which remain are:

Q1: Can we terminate the drain pipe above the wooden base (easier) or must
we terminate (how many) inches above the cement floor (necessitating a
short elbowed horizontal run)?
http://www.flickr.com/photos/donnaohl/2274211119/

Q2: Is it a code requirement to replace the incoming yellow gas lines?
http://www.flickr.com/photos/donnaohl/2273276741/

Q3: Since the old drain valve (predictably) snapped in half (causing most
of the installation problems we saw),
http://www.flickr.com/photos/donnaohl/2273262535/
and since Sears personnel said the drain valve can not be removed, do you
really remove and replace the new drain valve with a brass one (we opted
not because the store said it was unremovable)?
http://www.flickr.com/photos/donnaohl/2273262545/

Q5: How *tight* should the earthquake straps be (the originals were loose)?
http://www.flickr.com/photos/donnaohl/2273250269/

Q6: How much space should be left between the walls and the heater?
http://www.flickr.com/photos/donnaohl/2275029488/

Q7: Must we use a sheet-metal screw or is hand tight (it's very tight) good
enough for the vent flue?
http://www.flickr.com/photos/donnaohl/2274085488/

Donna
 
"Donna Ohl, Grady Volunteer Coordinator" <donna.ohl@sbcglobal.net> wrote in
message news:klZtj.970$Mh2.908@nlpi069.nbdc.sbc.com...
On Sun, 17 Feb 2008 06:19:34 -0500, Nate Nagel wrote:
the nipples on the top of your new heater should already be dielectric,
so adding a dielectric at the end of your water pipes would only protect
the copper flex.

Hi Nate,
That dialectric stuff confuses me to no end.
Dielectric unions are needed to prevent reactions between dissimilar metals,
causing leaks years from now. This is why copper hanger brackets or straps
should be used with copper pipe.

Sometimes though, unions are used simply to facilitate future disassembly;
no desoldering required, just a big wrench.
 
On Sun, 16 Mar 2008 16:05:47 -0700, Donna Ohl wrote:
On 16 Mar 2008 19:05:38 GMT, Allodoxaphobia wrote:

Or, all too often, there's no response at all. Then none of the
advisors know how it turned out, and the archives offer nothing for the
next feller that comes along with the same or nearly identical problem.

Hi Jonesy,

You just wait! A coworker of mine said he was gonna fill his welding tanks
with oxyaceteline and cut apart my old water heater so we could see exactly
what it looked like inside!

I can't wait to snap the pictures.
Yes. Massive lime/calcium deposits, I'd hazard to guess.
Or, are you on a well? I don't remember that comment up-thread.
In that case it probably would be sand.

You might want to install a water softener ahead of the H/W heater --
_just_ to serve the H/W side of the system.

I did that in the previous house for use with a solar H/W system that
was in-line ahead of the existing domestic gas H/W heater. Both the
(then) existing 50 gal. gas H/W heater and the 80 gal. solar H/W tank
lasted over 25 years -- and they may still be going strong, FAIK.

(Of course the gas H/W heater did not run much, so it's tank did
not get 'cooked' that often by the gas flame.)

Jonesy
--
Marvin L Jones | jonz | W3DHJ | linux
38.24N 104.55W | @ config.com | Jonesy | OS/2
*** Killfiling google posts: <http://jonz.net/ng.htm>
 
Bob M. wrote:
"Vic Smith" <thismailautodeleted@comcast.net> wrote in message
news:mpcgr353o2tda05vk17hsn3975aptt4dqb@4ax.com...

On Sat, 16 Feb 2008 22:07:56 -0700, "Donna Ohl, Grady Volunteer
Coordinator" <donna.ohl@sbcglobal.net> wrote:
snipped instructions for heater replacement

If your pipes are galvanized you don't need di-electric fittings.


Don't use galvanized pipe; it rusts from the inside out after a few
decades. Use copper.
I agree, the OP is talking about a retrofit of a water heater in a house
that already has galv. water pipes. They probably ought to be replaced
with copper at some point, but one job at a time :)

nate

--
replace "roosters" with "cox" to reply.
http://members.cox.net/njnagel
 
"Bob M." <no@nospam.com> wrote in message
For a year or two, probably. Does it have a rubber flap in it or is it a
real check valve? If it's a check valve, don't use it. They rattle after
some time. (i'd question the rubber flap kind too; they'd get stuck in
the 'outflow' direction eventually)
Another point about check valves. Some are swing checks that must be mounted
horizontal. Spring checks can go vertical. Personally, I'd not use one
 
"Vic Smith" <thismailautodeleted@comcast.net> wrote in message
news:mpcgr353o2tda05vk17hsn3975aptt4dqb@4ax.com...
On Sat, 16 Feb 2008 22:07:56 -0700, "Donna Ohl, Grady Volunteer
Coordinator" <donna.ohl@sbcglobal.net> wrote:
snipped instructions for heater replacement

If your pipes are galvanized you don't need di-electric fittings.
Don't use galvanized pipe; it rusts from the inside out after a few decades.
Use copper.
 
"Donna Ohl, Grady Volunteer Coordinator" <donna.ohl@sbcglobal.net> wrote in
message news:e5Qtj.662$tW.403@nlpi070.nbdc.sbc.com...

Also, we bought the extra one-way check valve even though the water heater
apparently comes with heat-loss protectors and we can s-kink the flex
lines
(not the steel lines, just the copper lines).

Do you think the one-way hot-water-outlet check valve will work to slow
heat loss?
For a year or two, probably. Does it have a rubber flap in it or is it a
real check valve? If it's a check valve, don't use it. They rattle after
some time. (i'd question the rubber flap kind too; they'd get stuck in the
'outflow' direction eventually)

If you want it to work forever, make your own. Make a loop out of the
flexible copper line or solder one out of rigid copper. You'll find out
that flexible copper isn't very flexible. I did the latter, the side that
goes up from the tank is hot, the side that comes back down is cold after
it's been sitting for a while. Mine's 12" from top to bottom, 6" is probably
ok. No ball to rattle, will work until the laws of physics are repealed.

Note we didn't buy the insulating blanket for the water heater, nor the
insulation for the hot-water pipes yet. We figured we could do that later.
If you put in a proper heat trap as described above, insulated pipes are
unnecessary.


Our biggest question is whether we really needed the dialectric unions.
Since they were female:female, that necessitated brass nipples on each
side, further lengthening the lines which we need to shorten.
You'll need the unions.
 
On Sun, 17 Feb 2008 11:37:36 -0600, msg wrote:
Are you planning on posting your photos and tutorial?
What would be the URL?
I don't know.

Last time I got help here was for the hot air furnace which needed to be
taken apart and cleaned because the limit kept kicking in.
http://groups.google.com/group/alt.home.repair/browse_thread/thread/94746b0668e8b6e5/41f1c7f208260970?lnk=gst&q=furnace+cleaned+donna+photo+posted#41f1c7f208260970

I posted *those* clogged-furnace pictures here
http://www.flickr.com/photos/23329283@N07/

But nobody seemed to care so I wasn't sure whether it would help or not to
post my pictures of a mundane (to you guys!) hot water heater replacement
job.

Donna
 
On Mon, 11 Feb 2008 16:44:15 -0500, ng_reader wrote:
I did want to read more, and not sure if I saw it or not,
but why the quick Nay to the tankless design?
Did anyone provide a credible counter-argument?
You can decide if it's credible but a counter argument to tankless home
water heater selection is here

http://www.waterheaterrescue.com/pages/WHRpages/English/Longevity/the-right-hot-water-heater.html

That web site also provides nice selection and installation advice (with
pictures!) for all hot water heaters, including those with tanks and
tankless.

Donna
 
A quick comment on warranty period and the AVERAGE home gas water heater
life.

The AVERAGE is exactly that: an average or mean calculation of the life for
all units shipped/sold. The real life span is affected by many things,
including the water quality/hardness (it consumes the anode quicker), the
temperature setting you select (hotter means it builds more internal
pressure and you get a shorter life) and the amount of hot water that you
use (more cycles of the burner mean a shorter life).

I am on my third gas HWH and purchased the house new in 1991. The first
heater lasted about 7 years and the second 6.5 years. I had a 7-year
warranty on the tank from Sears and they gave me a replacement free of
charge which has been in now for over 5 years. I believe that I will get a
longer life this time around since two of my children are no longer living
at home.

The bottom line here is that the warranty period may be important depending
on your circumstances. It is basically a cheap insurance policy that covers
only the cost of a replacement heater. For me, that was important since I
do the installation myself, but for someone hiring a plumber, the material
cost could easily be less than the labor and associated miscellaneous
expenses (permits).

Good luck in whatever you choose.

Bob

"Donna Ohl, Grady Volunteer Coordinator" <donna.ohl@sbcglobal.net> wrote in
message news:bIxsj.57494$Pv2.13701@newssvr23.news.prodigy.net...
On Sun, 10 Feb 2008 21:20:35 -0700, Rick Blaine wrote:
Heating less water costs less, even with equally efficient heaters.
Sigh. Absolutely true and totally meaningless within the context of this
discussion.
Hint: Direct energy cost is based on _use_ and efficiency, not _capacity_
and
efficiency.

It turns out Rick is right.

The size of the home water heater (e.g., 40 gallons, 50 gallons, etc.) is
nearly meaningless, as is the warranty period.

The only way the tank size plays any role in the selection process for
purely physical reasons. Why? Because both the EF and the FHR already take
into account the size of the holding tank so there is no need to even
bother to look at tank size (other than for purely physical reasons).

Likewise, the warranty is always less than the average lifetime of a home
water heater, which, at 13 years, is vastly greater than the 1-year labor
warrantees all the heaters I looked at (from Sears, Lowes, and Home Depot)
provided. (Note: The 12yr/9yr/6yr/etc. warranty figures often quoted by
Sears/Lowes/HomeDepot are for PARTS! Not labor).

Thanks everyone for enlightening me ... If I didn't know better, I'd buy
by
the size of the tank and the warranty but now I know they are meaningless
figures. The manufacturer WANTS you to look there but in reality, the
truthy lies in the FHV, EF, and cost/therm.

I didn't realize you guys knew so much about home water heaters ... but
I'm
glad you do. In only two days, I was able to take my knowledge level, with
your help, from absolutely nothing to being able make basic lifetime cost
comparisons given any two home heaters.

Thanks!

Donna
 
Joe

Looking at the data sheet for the TDA8177, this would appear to be the boost
supply diode for the chip's output stage. The trick to replacing it is not
so much its voltage characteristics as the fact that it's a fast recovery
type. The following data sheet source for this component, also lists many
similar types, from which you should be able to select an alternative that's
both suitable, and available.

http://pdf1.alldatasheet.com/datasheet-pdf/view/127026/SANKEN/EU2A.html

Arfa


"Joe Carroll" <joe_redalert@bigpond.com> wrote in message
news:9CqDj.26693$421.9364@news-server.bigpond.net.au...
Ran into a bit of a wall here, Hanging off pin 6 of the tda8177 vertical
deflection ic. This is all fitted in a 68cm centrex tv (unsure of exact
model sticker on the back is missing.)

The tda 8177 has literally exploded and the diode is open circuit. I am
yet
to delve further into this set. I am unable to find a supplier for this
diode in australia, so looking for a sub

EU2A datasheet says
Maximum peak rev voltage: 600v
Maximum peak reverse surge voltage: 650v
Maximum average forward current: 1.0a
Maximum peak forward surge current: 15a

Any help is appreciated.

Joe.
 
On Sun, 16 Mar 2008 16:10:26 -0700, Donna Ohl
<donna.ohl@sbcglobal.net> wrote:

On Wed, 20 Feb 2008 06:58:20 GMT, Donna Ohl, Grady Volunteer Coordinator
wrote:
That brings up a good question. All the literature I read said to set the
temperature to 120 degrees unless you needed it for dishes in which case
they suggested 140 degrees (or was it 130 degrees).

One thing I learned is it's MUCH better to set the temperature lower rather
than higher (as long as it's hot enough).

Why?

Because then there is less mixing with cold water so when someone flushes,
it doesn't change the temperature of the shower water at all!
That's one situation.

If you have a lot of people and you don't want to run out of hot water
for showers, you need hotter water so you don't use as much of it for
one shower.

If the water isn't hot enough, and one accidentally halfway fills a
tub with mixed water that isn't hot enough, the hot water isn't hot
enough to make the tub warm enough.

OTOH, if the water is too hot, someone, especially a child, can scald
himself. Not fun.
I learned this accidentally and I've never seen this hint (for this reason)
anywhere, so, I'm proposing if, for no other reason, you can set the water
temperature to EXACTLY the heat you want in the shower, you'll have more
REGULAR temperatures because there is less mixing and therefore less
perturbation when someone flushes.

BTW, we just found out today that, with this 98 gallon first-hour-rating
water heater, Bill (who is disabled and has to take a bath instead of a
shower) and I can run the newly unclogged dishwasher, new washer, shower,
and tub at the same time, all with no loss of hot water for the two of us!

Thanks everyone for being so wonderful (well, almost everyone),
Donna
 
On Mar 17, 11:40�am, mm <NOPSAMmm2...@bigfoot.com> wrote:
On Sun, 16 Mar 2008 16:10:26 -0700, Donna Ohl

donna....@sbcglobal.net> wrote:
On Wed, 20 Feb 2008 06:58:20 GMT, Donna Ohl, Grady Volunteer Coordinator
wrote:
That brings up a good question. All the literature I read said to set the
temperature to 120 degrees unless you needed it for dishes in which case
they suggested 140 degrees (or was it 130 degrees).

One thing I learned is it's MUCH better to set the temperature lower rather
than higher (as long as it's hot enough).

Why?

Because then there is less mixing with cold water so when someone flushes,
it doesn't change the temperature of the shower water at all!

That's one situation.

If you have a lot of people and you don't want to run out of hot water
for showers, you need hotter water so you don't use as much of it for
one shower.

If the water isn't hot enough, and one accidentally halfway fills a
tub with mixed water that isn't hot enough, the hot water isn't hot
enough to make the tub warm enough.

OTOH, if the water is too hot, someone, especially a child, can scald
himself. Not fun.





I learned this accidentally and I've never seen this hint (for this reason)
anywhere, so, I'm proposing if, for no other reason, you can set the water
temperature to EXACTLY the heat you want in the shower, you'll have more
REGULAR temperatures because there is less mixing and therefore less
perturbation when someone flushes.

BTW, we just found out today that, with this 98 gallon first-hour-rating
water heater, Bill (who is disabled and has to take a bath instead of a
shower) and I can run the newly unclogged dishwasher, new washer, shower,
and tub at the same time, all with no loss of hot water for the two of us!

Thanks everyone for being so wonderful (well, almost everyone),
Donna- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

you can install a tempering valve, it mixes cold with hot at or near
the tank effectively preventing scalds, and if you tap the dishwasher
line before the valve it can be as hot as you want.

note the hotter the tank the shorter the life, thermal stress is
tougher at higher temperatures
 
On Mon, 17 Mar 2008 17:47:18 -0700 (PDT), "hallerb@aol.com"
<hallerb@aol.com> wrote:

you can install a tempering valve, it mixes cold with hot at or near
the tank effectively preventing scalds, and if you tap the dishwasher
line before the valve it can be as hot as you want.

note the hotter the tank the shorter the life, thermal stress is
tougher at higher temperatures
Which part fails in that case, when the water is too hot?
 
On Mon, 17 Mar 2008 12:40:03 -0400, mm wrote:

If the water isn't hot enough, and one accidentally halfway fills a
tub with mixed water that isn't hot enough, the hot water isn't hot
enough to make the tub warm enough.
Oh. Good point. The way I have it set right now, the water is 120 degrees
(at the set point anyway) which is just right at the shower or tub. I'm
assuming (I didn't measure it) it's just above 100 degrees at the shower
since I know 104 degrees is too hot in a hot tub or me but anything below
104 degrees is just right.

Is it normal to lose about 20 degrees in moving from the hot water heater
to the shower?
 
"Donna Ohl" <donna.ohl@sbcglobal.net> wrote in message
news:ORHDj.18830$xq2.8664@newssvr21.news.prodigy.net...
On Mon, 17 Mar 2008 12:40:03 -0400, mm wrote:

If the water isn't hot enough, and one accidentally halfway fills a
tub with mixed water that isn't hot enough, the hot water isn't hot
enough to make the tub warm enough.

Oh. Good point. The way I have it set right now, the water is 120 degrees
(at the set point anyway) which is just right at the shower or tub. I'm
assuming (I didn't measure it) it's just above 100 degrees at the shower
since I know 104 degrees is too hot in a hot tub or me but anything below
104 degrees is just right.

Is it normal to lose about 20 degrees in moving from the hot water heater
to the shower?
It's not uncommon, but I would not consider it "normal" either. Galvanized
pipes have a lot of thermal mass and will take a while to heat up, until
then they're cooling the water. Chances are they are also not insulated.
 
On Mar 17, 8:55�pm, mm <NOPSAMmm2...@bigfoot.com> wrote:
On Mon, 17 Mar 2008 17:47:18 -0700 (PDT), "hall...@aol.com"

hall...@aol.com> wrote:

you can install a tempering valve, it mixes cold with hot at or near
the tank effectively preventing scalds, and if you tap the dishwasher
line before the valve it can be as hot as you want.

note the hotter the tank the shorter the life, thermal stress is
tougher at higher temperatures

Which part fails in that case, when the water is too hot?
the tank leaks sooner, hotter is tougher with expansion and
contraction.
 

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