Toshiba TV29C90 problem; Image fades to black...

[N Cook]

N Cook <diverse8@gazeta.pl> wrote in message
news:fhsm3k$ba9$1@inews.gazeta.pl...

Had been in a loft for years
Original Mullard EL84 tested good gain,no leakage, and all else checked
out.
On powering there was amp hiss and crackle on turning the worn out vol
control.
But stroking the stylus with fingertip produced nothing.
I did not think to feed an external signal into the tape input and now it
is
back apart.
Wiring between pu and vol control is fine.
Putting the output of either pu LP or 45 to a scope and touching either
stylus produces absolutely no signal at 2mV per division.

Make of rotatable pu looks like
Fulfi (Googling produces nothing)
, Made in England, number TC8S , and TC8C and TC8RS for the stylii.
Does it need an excitation voltage ? its only connected to the valve grid
via 1M vol pot.

--
Diverse Devices, Southampton, England
electronic hints and repair briefs , schematics/manuals list on
http://home.graffiti.net/diverse:graffiti.net/

Let this be a lesson to anyone in the UK -
DO NOT store Rochelle crystal cartridges in lofts or sheds.
The crystal must be hygroscopic.
After removing the copper rivits (used flute section of small end mill to
avoid the rotating rivet problem with drilling out rivets in plastic) and
separating the 2 main parts, the problem was obvious.
I just managed to move the parts apart enough to photograph before the
active part fell to bits, lightly probing with a pin it was the consistency
of dusty paste.
(1 mm graph paper)
http://home.graffiti.net/diverse:graffiti.net/ful-fi1.jpg
Left section is the cover, slid sideways, and the R section, on a nylon nut
for focus, is inverted, part of the "crystal" with angled ground strip that
touches the central pu pin (common to the other pu) to the outside, along
with the signal pin for that pick up.
The other pickup , not seen yet, but will be the same state, is under the
central view.
The brown part is the rubbery material that engages with the crystals and
stylus shafts.
Plenty of copper carbonate corrosion inside.

The remaining parts of the yoke, styli etc
http://home.graffiti.net/diverse:graffiti.net/ful-fi2.jpg

Anyone reckon I can rob the crystal from a piezo ceramic pickup to fudge a
functional and "as original" repair?
I assume piezo-ceramic is not prone to this problem over 40 years.

--
Diverse Devices, Southampton, England
electronic hints and repair briefs , schematics/manuals list on
http://home.graffiti.net/diverse:graffiti.net/

 

[msg]

N Cook wrote:

<snip>

Let this be a lesson to anyone in the UK -
DO NOT store Rochelle crystal cartridges in lofts or sheds.
The crystal must be hygroscopic.

<snip>

Anyone reckon I can rob the crystal from a piezo ceramic pickup to fudge a
functional and "as original" repair?
I assume piezo-ceramic is not prone to this problem over 40 years.

FWIW, I have seen a number of grow-your-own Rochelle salt crystal
experiments on the web; the process seems rather straightforward and
the results look good if the work is performed with care. If you
were successful with this cartridge and posted your work I'm sure
it would attract a lot of attention

Regards,

Michael

 

[Arfa Daily]

"N Cook" <diverse8@gazeta.pl> wrote in message
news:fhugiv$1r8$1@inews.gazeta.pl...

N Cook <diverse8@gazeta.pl> wrote in message
news:fhsm3k$ba9$1@inews.gazeta.pl...
Had been in a loft for years
Original Mullard EL84 tested good gain,no leakage, and all else checked
out.
On powering there was amp hiss and crackle on turning the worn out vol
control.
But stroking the stylus with fingertip produced nothing.
I did not think to feed an external signal into the tape input and now it
is
back apart.
Wiring between pu and vol control is fine.
Putting the output of either pu LP or 45 to a scope and touching either
stylus produces absolutely no signal at 2mV per division.

Make of rotatable pu looks like
Fulfi (Googling produces nothing)
, Made in England, number TC8S , and TC8C and TC8RS for the stylii.
Does it need an excitation voltage ? its only connected to the valve grid
via 1M vol pot.

--
Diverse Devices, Southampton, England
electronic hints and repair briefs , schematics/manuals list on
http://home.graffiti.net/diverse:graffiti.net/




Let this be a lesson to anyone in the UK -
DO NOT store Rochelle crystal cartridges in lofts or sheds.
The crystal must be hygroscopic.
After removing the copper rivits (used flute section of small end mill to
avoid the rotating rivet problem with drilling out rivets in plastic) and
separating the 2 main parts, the problem was obvious.
I just managed to move the parts apart enough to photograph before the
active part fell to bits, lightly probing with a pin it was the
consistency
of dusty paste.
(1 mm graph paper)
http://home.graffiti.net/diverse:graffiti.net/ful-fi1.jpg
Left section is the cover, slid sideways, and the R section, on a nylon
nut
for focus, is inverted, part of the "crystal" with angled ground strip
that
touches the central pu pin (common to the other pu) to the outside, along
with the signal pin for that pick up.
The other pickup , not seen yet, but will be the same state, is under the
central view.
The brown part is the rubbery material that engages with the crystals and
stylus shafts.
Plenty of copper carbonate corrosion inside.

The remaining parts of the yoke, styli etc
http://home.graffiti.net/diverse:graffiti.net/ful-fi2.jpg

Anyone reckon I can rob the crystal from a piezo ceramic pickup to fudge a
functional and "as original" repair?
I assume piezo-ceramic is not prone to this problem over 40 years.

As I recall, ceramic cartridges do not have anything like as much output as
a genuine crystal type. Why not just replace the whole cartridge with an
SX5H or whatever ? I seem to think that Dansettes were fitted with a
comparitively 'modern' type such as this, anyway.

Arfa

 

[N Cook]

msg <msg@_cybertheque.org_> wrote in message
news:13k5k7bfm8dde21@corp.supernews.com...

N Cook wrote:

snip

Let this be a lesson to anyone in the UK -
DO NOT store Rochelle crystal cartridges in lofts or sheds.
The crystal must be hygroscopic.

snip

Anyone reckon I can rob the crystal from a piezo ceramic pickup to fudge
a
functional and "as original" repair?
I assume piezo-ceramic is not prone to this problem over 40 years.

FWIW, I have seen a number of grow-your-own Rochelle salt crystal
experiments on the web; the process seems rather straightforward and
the results look good if the work is performed with care. If you
were successful with this cartridge and posted your work I'm sure
it would attract a lot of attention

Regards,

Michael

I reckon it is possible to convert piezo cartridges.
I have dozens of later N.O.S Sonotone mono pickups, but have never looked
inside one.
http://home.graffiti.net/diverse:graffiti.net/ful-fi3.jpg
The central image is the active section. Not obvious in pic but the 2
vertical sections are each metal/piezo-ceramic/metal sandwich like bi-metal
strip in fabrication, set in quadrature, so a pair of pickups, but
electrically combined for mono output.
So although these are pinned out as mono, just rewiring the innards and
adding a pin would presumably convert to stereo.
Electrical contacts are via fine sprung strips set in a black rubber pad
like the white one shown, there is also another such black block removed,
they hold in place in the casing.
The lower creamish joining part is the plastic cradle/saddle for the stylus
shaft.
Cutting down the rubber pads a bit and sorting out some contacts and gluing
in the ful-fi casing will probably work, whether capacitance etc is wrong
I'll wait and see.

The kid's clothes peg, 1 inch long was just right as an insulated clip to
hold a pair of contacts, temporarily, to check on a scope.

--
Diverse Devices, Southampton, England
electronic hints and repair briefs , schematics/manuals list on
http://home.graffiti.net/diverse:graffiti.net/

 

[Meat Plow]

On Sun, 06 Apr 2008 18:48:18 +0000, James Sweet wrote:

"William Sommerwerck" <grizzledgeezer@comcast.net> wrote in message
news:ZqCdnWjIGvhNNGXanZ2dnUVZ_jKdnZ2d@comcast.com...
The microwave will happily begin to microwave a cup of water.
After about a minute or so, the fan and the turntable will stop.
The light stays on, and the counter keeps going.

What powers the stirrer and turntable? Do they have their own power supply
separate from everything else?

Does the magenetron continue to operate?

PS: Thanks for giving a clear description of what happened and what you
did.
Most people don't!



I've been seeing a lot of bad solder joints on the control boards in
microwaves lately. I think it's due to the switch to lead-free solder.

I was either reading something on the net or shopping for something and
read the features of whatever it was touting that it was made entirely
with lead-free solder. I though OH BOY to myself, is that something to
advertise on?

 

[N Cook]

N Cook <diverse8@gazeta.pl> wrote in message
news:fhukqa$j1r$1@inews.gazeta.pl...

msg <msg@_cybertheque.org_> wrote in message
news:13k5k7bfm8dde21@corp.supernews.com...
N Cook wrote:

snip

Let this be a lesson to anyone in the UK -
DO NOT store Rochelle crystal cartridges in lofts or sheds.
The crystal must be hygroscopic.

snip

Anyone reckon I can rob the crystal from a piezo ceramic pickup to
fudge
a
functional and "as original" repair?
I assume piezo-ceramic is not prone to this problem over 40 years.

FWIW, I have seen a number of grow-your-own Rochelle salt crystal
experiments on the web; the process seems rather straightforward and
the results look good if the work is performed with care. If you
were successful with this cartridge and posted your work I'm sure
it would attract a lot of attention

Regards,

Michael



I reckon it is possible to convert piezo cartridges.
I have dozens of later N.O.S Sonotone mono pickups, but have never looked
inside one.
http://home.graffiti.net/diverse:graffiti.net/ful-fi3.jpg
The central image is the active section. Not obvious in pic but the 2
vertical sections are each metal/piezo-ceramic/metal sandwich like
bi-metal
strip in fabrication, set in quadrature, so a pair of pickups, but
electrically combined for mono output.
So although these are pinned out as mono, just rewiring the innards and
adding a pin would presumably convert to stereo.
Electrical contacts are via fine sprung strips set in a black rubber pad
like the white one shown, there is also another such black block removed,
they hold in place in the casing.
The lower creamish joining part is the plastic cradle/saddle for the
stylus
shaft.
Cutting down the rubber pads a bit and sorting out some contacts and
gluing
in the ful-fi casing will probably work, whether capacitance etc is wrong
I'll wait and see.

The kid's clothes peg, 1 inch long was just right as an insulated clip to
hold a pair of contacts, temporarily, to check on a scope.

--
Diverse Devices, Southampton, England
electronic hints and repair briefs , schematics/manuals list on
http://home.graffiti.net/diverse:graffiti.net/

I did not note how the 3 little silver springs were connected to the
Sonotone active elements, I lost one in removing. As 3, I assume they were
connected in series for mono output. But would they have been like to like
or opposite faces connected between the 2 sensors, One of them is dye
spotted red so there may be a difference in fabrication .
Any opinions for ew-wiring, ie could go parallel .

Assembled new elements in the old casing but will wire up with silvered wire
tomorrow as I've done enough working under a magnifying lamp today.

--
Diverse Devices, Southampton, England
electronic hints and repair briefs , schematics/manuals list on
http://home.graffiti.net/diverse:graffiti.net/

 

[Meat Plow]

On Sun, 06 Apr 2008 18:48:18 +0000, James Sweet wrote:

"William Sommerwerck" <grizzledgeezer@comcast.net> wrote in message
news:ZqCdnWjIGvhNNGXanZ2dnUVZ_jKdnZ2d@comcast.com...
The microwave will happily begin to microwave a cup of water.
After about a minute or so, the fan and the turntable will stop.
The light stays on, and the counter keeps going.

What powers the stirrer and turntable? Do they have their own power supply
separate from everything else?

Does the magenetron continue to operate?

PS: Thanks for giving a clear description of what happened and what you
did.
Most people don't!



I've been seeing a lot of bad solder joints on the control boards in
microwaves lately. I think it's due to the switch to lead-free solder.

I was either reading something on the net or shopping for something and
read the features of whatever it was touting that it was made entirely
with lead-free solder. I though OH BOY to myself, is that something to
advertise on?

 

[Jeff Liebermann]

"captainvideo462002@yahoo.com" <captainvideo462002@yahoo.com> hath
wroth:

There is one other factor which I didn't mention. There is an alarm
system in the house.

Actually, I did. See:
<http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/msg/088c35634a820b30>
It's in the list of possible oversights:

The CO has to hit the alarm system first. There
is a double pole relay in the dialer with center connected to the CO.
This relay normally is connected: CO to premises equipment. In the
event of an alarm, the CO toggles over to the dialer, and "siezes" the
line which in turn disconnects all premises equipment. If the
incoming CO is split, someone could concievably short the DSL side
during alarm dial out and circumvent the alarm. I've always installed
alarm systems this way, first in line and never had a problem with
DSL.. And alarm test signals go out fine. Only one pair seems to come
into the house and is cut down in the basement. I don't see any
filters there at all. And i never heard DSL when testing these lines.
Lenny.

Yep. Alarms circuits are a special problem with special DSL filters
with a specialized RJ-31x connector. They have to be first in line at
the MPOE.
<http://www.hometech.com/learn/rj31x.html>
The idea is that if the alarm jack is unplugged, the alarm is
triggered, but the phones continue to work. A commodity DSL splitter
or microfilter will not work. It has to be something like this:
<http://www.excelsus-tech.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=products.ProductDetail&id=1749711>

Incidentally, a few of the alarm panels I've seen recently include
built in DSL filters and do not require any additional DSL filtering.

--
Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

 

[Brad]

Hi,

I finally found something that may be the cause of this problem. I will
report back in a week or so after I confirm it.

This was the first test I performed on this TV, which "past the test".
I used a capacitor tester's "leak" test (very sensitive) set at 50V and
checked all the button switches. Absolutely no sign of "leakage".
I won't tell you all the other things I did. Sometimes it pays to re-test.

This time, when the TV started it's off/on "ritual" again, I unplugged the
TV and I performed another "leak" test on the button switches.
Wow!!! now I have a "leak" indication. Imagine, an intermittent "leak"!!!
I opened the circuit trace to all the button switches. Now, I will use the
remote control on this TV for the next week or so to confirm. Please
"stay tuned".
Brad

On Mon, 19 Nov 2007 18:31:55 GMT, in sci.electronics.repair you wrote:

Hi,

Has anyone fixed a late model TV (mfg 2005/2006) with this problem:

You turn on the TV, after the screen lights up, etc. the TV turns itself off.
About 5 seconds later, the TV turns itself on, etc. You have to pull the
plug to stop the off/on cycle. Sometimes, you turn on the TV and it will
play for a while before this off/on cycle begins.

IMPORTANT: The TV may work just fine for a few days, then it happens.
Eventually, the TV begins to work fine again for another two or three days
before it happens again.

I have serviced TVs for years and I performed many tests on this
RCA TV, chassis M134C (mfg 01/06).

I thought about replacing the micro or the eeprom, but I could be
wasting my time and money?

Thanks in advance, Brad

Before you type your password, credit card number, etc.,
be sure there is no active keystroke logger (spyware) in your PC.

 

[Derek Geldard]

On Tue, 20 Nov 2007 12:42:49 GMT, "Arfa Daily"
<arfa.daily@ntlworld.com> wrote:

Anyone reckon I can rob the crystal from a piezo ceramic pickup to fudge a
functional and "as original" repair?
I assume piezo-ceramic is not prone to this problem over 40 years.


As I recall, ceramic cartridges do not have anything like as much output as
a genuine crystal type. Why not just replace the whole cartridge with an
SX5H or whatever ? I seem to think that Dansettes were fitted with a
comparitively 'modern' type such as this, anyway.

ISTR that cheap record players that just had a single valve output
stage and no pre-amplifier used a "High-output" cartridge. (Is that
what the H in SX5H means ?) a standard output cartridge would be very
quiet and a ceramic quieter still.

Also FWIR that output valve would typically be a UL84 or similar (not
as a rule EL84), with 100ma (80v) heaters fed off a tap on the shaded
pole turntable motor, to save the cost of a filament transformer.

The crystal cartridges didn't need any excitation voltage.

DG

 

[b]

funnily enough this came up just a couple of days back here:

http://www.vintage-radio.net/forum/showthread.php?t=22673

to be honest I wouldn't mess about rebuilding a cartridge this common
and low cost unless you have lots of time and patience on your hands.
It would be simpler to get a NOS stock TC8 turnover cartridge off ebay
if you want the orignal look rather than functionality, or even
better, fit a slightly more recent stereo-compatible cart like a BSR
x5H (has output which matches the crystal carts) which will enable
safe playback of stereo records. these are widely available on the
'bay for low cost and the main advantage over your original turnover
cart is the turntable can play all kinds of records.

-B

 

[Arfa Daily]

"Derek Geldard" <impex@miniac.demon.co.uk> wrote in message
news:n8i6k315k07emjo6tafsimh5k6t26pv575@4ax.com...

On Tue, 20 Nov 2007 12:42:49 GMT, "Arfa Daily"
arfa.daily@ntlworld.com> wrote:



Anyone reckon I can rob the crystal from a piezo ceramic pickup to fudge
a
functional and "as original" repair?
I assume piezo-ceramic is not prone to this problem over 40 years.


As I recall, ceramic cartridges do not have anything like as much output
as
a genuine crystal type. Why not just replace the whole cartridge with an
SX5H or whatever ? I seem to think that Dansettes were fitted with a
comparitively 'modern' type such as this, anyway.


ISTR that cheap record players that just had a single valve output
stage and no pre-amplifier used a "High-output" cartridge. (Is that
what the H in SX5H means ?) a standard output cartridge would be very
quiet and a ceramic quieter still.

Also FWIR that output valve would typically be a UL84 or similar (not
as a rule EL84), with 100ma (80v) heaters fed off a tap on the shaded
pole turntable motor, to save the cost of a filament transformer.

The crystal cartridges didn't need any excitation voltage.

DG

Yes Derek, that's it exactly. I did one just last week that used a UL84 and
UY85 reccy, fed just as you say, by a tap on the motor winding. I seem to
recall that those crystal cartridges had an output approaching 2v p-p, and
obviously, with a very high impedance in the order of megs, which matched
nicely for level and Z, directly to the grid circuit of the UL84. Ceramic
cartridges, on the other hand, only have an output of 200 mV or so I think,
at an impedance of around 50 - 100k. I think that you are right that the "H"
is for high. The BSR SC5H is a high output ceramic, so I guess it's "S" for
stereo, "X" for xtal, "C" for ceramic, and "H" for high.

It's all going back a bit to my apprentice years now, but I have a dim
recollection of later units that were fitted with a ceramic cartridge, using
something like a UCL84 which contained a triode as well as the output
pentode, and that the triode was pressed into service as a preamp.

Arfa

 

[Gene S. Berkowitz]

In article <OcadnQTZF6O-tyfanZ2dnUVZ_ryqnZ2d@bresnan.com>, no@nospam.com
says...

"James Sweet" <jamessweet@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:atouj.5014$_T3.3895@trnddc07...

"Bob M." <no@nospam.com> wrote in message
news:0cSdnQ18vbThnyfanZ2dnUVZ_qainZ2d@bresnan.com...
"Donna Ohl, Grady Volunteer Coordinator" <donna.ohl@sbcglobal.net> wrote
in message news:Hjhuj.8178$5K1.598@newssvr12.news.prodigy.net...

2. Even Superman couldn't would have a tough time removing mine ...
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2033/2274085498_52c3b7d618.jpg?v=0

Given it took a pipe wrench plus a huge cheater bar to remove the anode
with the water heater removed and blocked on the ground ... and given
that

On your new heater, take the anode out and wrap the threads once with
teflon tape or anti-seize compound. Much easier to remove the next time;
still provides protection too.

Doesn't it still need to be grounded to the tank?

I remember from boats that the sacrificial anode needs a good solid ground
connection to the engine or transmission block.




Yes, and it is even with a layer of teflon tape. Can be easily tested with
a meter. If someone's really concerned, use anti-seize compound available
at auto parts places. It's used for spark plugs.

Automotive anti-seize compounds should not be used for potable water
connections, due to the presence of petroleum distillates and metals
such as nickel or molybdenum.

--Gene

 

[N Cook]

Arfa Daily <arfa.daily@ntlworld.com> wrote in message
news:L1M0j.520$8k2.480@newsfe4-win.ntli.net...

"Derek Geldard" <impex@miniac.demon.co.uk> wrote in message
news:n8i6k315k07emjo6tafsimh5k6t26pv575@4ax.com...
On Tue, 20 Nov 2007 12:42:49 GMT, "Arfa Daily"
arfa.daily@ntlworld.com> wrote:



Anyone reckon I can rob the crystal from a piezo ceramic pickup to
fudge
a
functional and "as original" repair?
I assume piezo-ceramic is not prone to this problem over 40 years.


As I recall, ceramic cartridges do not have anything like as much output
as
a genuine crystal type. Why not just replace the whole cartridge with an
SX5H or whatever ? I seem to think that Dansettes were fitted with a
comparitively 'modern' type such as this, anyway.


ISTR that cheap record players that just had a single valve output
stage and no pre-amplifier used a "High-output" cartridge. (Is that
what the H in SX5H means ?) a standard output cartridge would be very
quiet and a ceramic quieter still.

Also FWIR that output valve would typically be a UL84 or similar (not
as a rule EL84), with 100ma (80v) heaters fed off a tap on the shaded
pole turntable motor, to save the cost of a filament transformer.

The crystal cartridges didn't need any excitation voltage.

DG


Yes Derek, that's it exactly. I did one just last week that used a UL84
and
UY85 reccy, fed just as you say, by a tap on the motor winding. I seem to
recall that those crystal cartridges had an output approaching 2v p-p, and
obviously, with a very high impedance in the order of megs, which matched
nicely for level and Z, directly to the grid circuit of the UL84. Ceramic
cartridges, on the other hand, only have an output of 200 mV or so I
think,
at an impedance of around 50 - 100k. I think that you are right that the
"H"
is for high. The BSR SC5H is a high output ceramic, so I guess it's "S"
for
stereo, "X" for xtal, "C" for ceramic, and "H" for high.

It's all going back a bit to my apprentice years now, but I have a dim
recollection of later units that were fitted with a ceramic cartridge,
using
something like a UCL84 which contained a triode as well as the output
pentode, and that the triode was pressed into service as a preamp.

Arfa

The circuit is minimalism, as in the Newnes 1959 guide for Dansette Major de
Luxe.
A triple cap can, 2 other axial caps, 2 Rs, rectifier , 2 pots, EL84, mains
and o/p transformer.
I took another Sonotone apart. I had not lost a silver spring from the other
one, only one active element is used so 2 wires only.
I will try lashups as series and parallel trying to determine which gives
most signal/ most f range.

--
Diverse Devices, Southampton, England
electronic hints and repair briefs , schematics/manuals list on
http://home.graffiti.net/diverse:graffiti.net/

 

[N Cook]

I decided to take a skew view before wiring in

http://home.graffiti.net/diverse:graffiti.net/ful-fi4.jpg
2 rings of green silicone rubber sleeving to take silvered wires before dabs
of gummy glue.
One black rubber pad chamfered to rest in the top cover, yellow-white rubber
pad cut down , orginal brown rubbery moulding that enclosed both original
rochelle crystals and extensions to both stylii saddles.
The saphire of the original remounted ( coded yellow and green) stylus is
just visible to the top and right of the brown section, through a gap in the
white plastic casing.
The original small plastic stylus saddle went quite neatly through the hole
for the original rochelle.
The now unused second brass screw mount for the other stylus and its
corresponding saddle rest flat, on the brown section, is visible on the
lower edge.
Decided to wire in only one active element of the Sonotone and also to have
more space to play with ditch the 78 option and just use 2 of the original 3
pins and plates to the outside. It is very critical on signal generation on
how much the rubber supports are compressed, I may cut the thickness down a
bit if the sound is ropey.
It would probably be possible, in space terms, to separate the 2 sonotone
and mount one either side and retain double stylus, rotating function.


--
Diverse Devices, Southampton, England
electronic hints and repair briefs , schematics/manuals list on
http://home.graffiti.net/diverse:graffiti.net/

 

[Donna Ohl, Grady Voluntee]

How can it be that replacing a drain valve in a full tank leaks not water?

I still feel badly that I didn't replace the plastic drain valve with the
brass ball valve because I was afraid the plastic was not removable (that's
what Sears salespeople said anyway, instilling FUD in my mind).

I was subsequently reading how to replace the plastic drain valve after the
fact and they all seem to say it won't leak if I do so with a full tank.

Huh?

How can removing the drain valve at the bottom of a full water heater not
leak 50 gallons of water?

I already saw, first hand, what happens when that drain valve
http://www.flickr.com/photos/donnaohl/2274079114/
snaps off
http://www.flickr.com/photos/donnaohl/2273262545/
spewing 40 gallons of hot water in my garage
http://www.flickr.com/photos/donnaohl/2273262535/

Can someone clarify this statement from, say:
http://216.250.104.54/default.cfm?PageId=41781 (see excerpt below).

Donna


Maintenance Tip #21 Drain valves
Drain valves usually come when you buy them from a manufacturer. They used
to be brass. You should install a 3/4 ball valve on your water heater.
The plastic ones are prone to leaking. To install a brass ball valve, turn
the gas or electricity off and open a hot tap inside the house. If you
have a cone-shaped valve, unscrew it counterclockwise six turns or so and
pull it out at the same time. Now turn it clockwise while continuing to
pull and it will come out. Wrap Teflon on the nipple that is exposed on
the water heater. Attach the ball valve now. If you have a plastic drain
valve that looks like a hose bib, unscrew it by turning the entire valve
itself.
A little water may come out while you're installing a new valve, but not
much at all. Wear gloves to avoid getting scalded.

 

[Art]

Possible leaky clamping diode? Been nemises in many wierd problems, not
only with Rica Sets!!
"Brad" <bpetria@verizon.net> wrote in message
news:47434917.6140758@news.verizon.net...

Hi,

I finally found something that may be the cause of this problem. I
will
report back in a week or so after I confirm it.

This was the first test I performed on this TV, which "past the test".
I used a capacitor tester's "leak" test (very sensitive) set at 50V and
checked all the button switches. Absolutely no sign of "leakage".
I won't tell you all the other things I did. Sometimes it pays to
re-test.

This time, when the TV started it's off/on "ritual" again, I unplugged
the
TV and I performed another "leak" test on the button switches.
Wow!!! now I have a "leak" indication. Imagine, an intermittent
"leak"!!!
I opened the circuit trace to all the button switches. Now, I will use
the
remote control on this TV for the next week or so to confirm. Please
"stay tuned".
Brad

On Mon, 19 Nov 2007 18:31:55 GMT, in sci.electronics.repair you wrote:

Hi,

Has anyone fixed a late model TV (mfg 2005/2006) with this problem:

You turn on the TV, after the screen lights up, etc. the TV turns itself
off.
About 5 seconds later, the TV turns itself on, etc. You have to pull the
plug to stop the off/on cycle. Sometimes, you turn on the TV and it
will
play for a while before this off/on cycle begins.

IMPORTANT: The TV may work just fine for a few days, then it happens.
Eventually, the TV begins to work fine again for another two or three days
before it happens again.

I have serviced TVs for years and I performed many tests on this
RCA TV, chassis M134C (mfg 01/06).

I thought about replacing the micro or the eeprom, but I could be
wasting my time and money?

Thanks in advance, Brad

Before you type your password, credit card number, etc.,
be sure there is no active keystroke logger (spyware) in your PC.

 

[Donna Ohl, Grady Voluntee]

On Mon, 18 Feb 2008 23:24:54 GMT, James Sweet wrote:

On your new heater, take the anode out and wrap the threads once with
teflon tape or anti-seize compound. Much easier to remove the next time;
still provides protection too.
I remember from boats that the sacrificial anode needs a good solid ground
connection to the engine or transmission block.

Hi James,

Many articles I find on replacing the sacrificial anode discuss the use of
Teflon tape to prevent leaks. Apparently the threads cut right through the
tape to make plenty of metal to metal contact in the steel tank.

For example, "This Old House"
http://www.thisoldhouse.com/toh/video/0,,20047047,00.html
shows a video of a destroyed sacrificial anode (just like mine) and a
passivated (covered in Calcium deposits) sacrificial anode. They replaced
it with both a three-foot-eight-inch straight anode and a three-link
sausage-shaped collapsible anode (for tight spaces). Both had Teflon tape
in the threads!

In addition, this article was written by a housing specialist and was
reviewed by three PH.D.s and the EPA - and it clearly says to use Teflon
tape on the sacrificial WH anode for replacement:
http://www.fcs.uga.edu/ext/pubs/hace/HACE-E-60-05.pdf
They say:
"Wrap the threads of the new rod in Teflon tape."

This article by John Wood Heaters also says to use Teflon tape:
http://www.johnwoodwaterheaters.com/support/techsupport.html
They say:
"Wrap threads of the anode with plumber˘s tape or use pipe dope approved
for use with potable water, and install the (new) anode into tank and
tighten."

This very informative series of articles are some of the best I've seen
explaining sacrificial anodes for water heaters and other topics.
http://216.250.104.54/default.cfm?PageId=42306
It covers lots of interesting topics, including how to bend anodes to fit
them in tight spaces but unfortunately, it doesn't cover the Teflon issue.

 

[Edwin Pawlowski]

"Donna Ohl, Grady Volunteer Coordinator" <donna.ohl@sbcglobal.net> wrote in
message

If the pressure is 150 psi inside the tank, what is the pressure the hot
water is coming out? Is it at 150 psi while the cold water remains at 80
psi? I find that hard to believe, empirically.

Donna

It is whatever it is until you open a valve and it will be no more than the
cold water behind it. Static pressure is probably not much more than the
dynamic anyway given the low temperature. Water does not compress well so
it is very easy to relieve pressure so there will be no dramatic "poof" when
you open the tap.

If, however, the gas ran wild and made steam you could have much more
pressure and a violent release.

 

[Arfa Daily]

"N Cook" <diverse8@gazeta.pl> wrote in message
news:fi112n$kpk$1@inews.gazeta.pl...

I decided to take a skew view before wiring in

http://home.graffiti.net/diverse:graffiti.net/ful-fi4.jpg
2 rings of green silicone rubber sleeving to take silvered wires before
dabs
of gummy glue.
One black rubber pad chamfered to rest in the top cover, yellow-white
rubber
pad cut down , orginal brown rubbery moulding that enclosed both original
rochelle crystals and extensions to both stylii saddles.
The saphire of the original remounted ( coded yellow and green) stylus is
just visible to the top and right of the brown section, through a gap in
the
white plastic casing.
The original small plastic stylus saddle went quite neatly through the
hole
for the original rochelle.
The now unused second brass screw mount for the other stylus and its
corresponding saddle rest flat, on the brown section, is visible on the
lower edge.
Decided to wire in only one active element of the Sonotone and also to
have
more space to play with ditch the 78 option and just use 2 of the original
3
pins and plates to the outside. It is very critical on signal generation
on
how much the rubber supports are compressed, I may cut the thickness down
a
bit if the sound is ropey.
It would probably be possible, in space terms, to separate the 2 sonotone
and mount one either side and retain double stylus, rotating function.

I wish I could make enough money in the repair business, to have time to
'play' like this ... !! d;~}

Arfa