Toshiba TV29C90 problem; Image fades to black...

[Donna Ohl, Grady Voluntee]

On Wed, 20 Feb 2008 07:48:20 GMT, James Sweet wrote:

Hey that looks identical to the one I just yanked out of my place
When you remove the kick plate, you'll find adjustable screw feet
The solenoid valve will be right up front on the left side, mine is blue.

Hi James,

You gave me the courage to tackle this maybe-clogged dishwasher:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/donnaohl/sets/72157603947125744/

Here's a pic, taken just now, with the "kick plate" removed:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/donnaohl/2279869546/

Are you suggesting I can remove that blue "solonoid" on the left side with
the brass pipe in it and that might be what's probably clogged?

Donna

 

[Arno Wagner]

In comp.sys.ibm.pc.hardware.storage John Hudak <jhudak@sei.cmu.edu> wrote:

Erica Eshoo wrote:
On Sun, 04 Nov 2007 08:43:26 -0800, bluerhinoceros wrote:

Here is the freeware/demoware that PC World suggests at
http://www.pcworld.com/video/catid,1610-page,1/video.html
How to Resurrect a Crashed Hard Drive - PC World Video
Electrical recovery for not spinning drives
- Connect to a high wattage power supply
I don't understand this one.
the video implies that the power supply "pushes"
the current rather than allowing the device to draw it.

I agree with you - this is a wierd suggestion by PC World.
But, I can tell you watched the video because that's exactly what it says.

PC World seems to imply that a larger capacity power supply INITIAL
current/voltage (they call it wattage) surge into the reluctant disk drive
could JOLT the dead disk drive into cooperating - sort of like a Taser for
reticent hard disks.

http://www.pcworld.com/video/catid,1610-page,1/video.html
Does anyone else know more about this PC World suggestion to resurrect my
dead but spinning hard drive - is it science or is it voodoo?

It is science but the advice is abstracted from many electrical
engineering disciplines, and couched in laypersons terms. First - DC
motor theory: the motor in the drive that spins the disk has whats
called 'inrush current'. High inrush occurs because at startup, the
motor does not generated enough back EMF to equal the nameplate voltage
rating of the motor, and for a few tenths of a second, it (the motor
windings) looks close to a short circuit to the power supply.
Technically, at the location of a short circuit, the current will go to
infinity (or as much as the power supply can deliver) and the voltage
will go to zero. The current in the motor windings or fields cutting
through a magnetic field is what produces the torque that causes the
rotor to spin.

Does not aplay, since these motors are not connected to power
directly, but through a sphisticated motro controller circuit,
that, among other things, limits startup current.

Power supply theory: Now, if the power supply that is powering the motor
is relatively small (e.g. low wattage), in the startup phase of the
motor when the 'short circuit' is present, the power supply may not be
capable of supplying the current that is needed by the motor so that it
can develop the necessary torque to start rotation. The torque that is
developed must overcome the friction caused by the bearings, etc and
move the mass on the shaft (armature plus disk)in the motor. Power
supplies may have additional circuit protection devices that limit the
current, as well as under and over voltage protection. These as well
will limit the power (current x voltage) that the power supply can
output, thus not allowing the motor to produce the necessary torque to
produce rotation.

Again, does not apply for a PC PSU, unless it is very close to failing.
A HDD draws up to 30W on startup, that should overload no PC PSU.

The implication that a power supply 'pushes' power into a device is
incorrect, and a laymans attempt at explaining electrical circuit
theory. IMHO, it is quite a 'reach' to suggest that getting a larger
wattage power supply can fix the problem, although it can work. The
same effect could be obtained by taking some of the load OFF of the
smaller supply (e.g. disconnect bus loads, DVD/CDs/floppies, etc, or
even pull memory out of the MB (leave all but minimum).

What is completely missing is that if the PSU is this weak,
it is close to death in the first place.

Arno

 

[N8N]

On Feb 20, 2:07 am, "Donna Ohl, Grady Volunteer Coordinator"
<donna....@sbcglobal.net> wrote:

On Tue, 19 Feb 2008 15:52:48 -0800 (PST), N8N wrote:
I still err on the side of too much PM because

PM?

Preventative Maintenance. or Project Management, depending on
context. Either one applies in my case

nate

 

[Ken Layton]

On Oct 11, 9:14 am, goocrawler <getcraw...@gmail.com> wrote:

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[John Hudak]

Erica Eshoo wrote:

On Sun, 04 Nov 2007 08:43:26 -0800, bluerhinoceros wrote:

Here is the freeware/demoware that PC World suggests at
http://www.pcworld.com/video/catid,1610-page,1/video.html
How to Resurrect a Crashed Hard Drive - PC World Video
Electrical recovery for not spinning drives
- Connect to a high wattage power supply
I don't understand this one.
the video implies that the power supply "pushes"
the current rather than allowing the device to draw it.

I agree with you - this is a wierd suggestion by PC World.
But, I can tell you watched the video because that's exactly what it says.

PC World seems to imply that a larger capacity power supply INITIAL
current/voltage (they call it wattage) surge into the reluctant disk drive
could JOLT the dead disk drive into cooperating - sort of like a Taser for
reticent hard disks.

http://www.pcworld.com/video/catid,1610-page,1/video.html
Does anyone else know more about this PC World suggestion to resurrect my
dead but spinning hard drive - is it science or is it voodoo?

It is science but the advice is abstracted from many electrical
engineering disciplines, and couched in laypersons terms. First - DC
motor theory: the motor in the drive that spins the disk has whats
called 'inrush current'. High inrush occurs because at startup, the
motor does not generated enough back EMF to equal the nameplate voltage
rating of the motor, and for a few tenths of a second, it (the motor
windings) looks close to a short circuit to the power supply.
Technically, at the location of a short circuit, the current will go to
infinity (or as much as the power supply can deliver) and the voltage
will go to zero. The current in the motor windings or fields cutting
through a magnetic field is what produces the torque that causes the
rotor to spin.
Power supply theory: Now, if the power supply that is powering the motor
is relatively small (e.g. low wattage), in the startup phase of the
motor when the 'short circuit' is present, the power supply may not be
capable of supplying the current that is needed by the motor so that it
can develop the necessary torque to start rotation. The torque that is
developed must overcome the friction caused by the bearings, etc and
move the mass on the shaft (armature plus disk)in the motor. Power
supplies may have additional circuit protection devices that limit the
current, as well as under and over voltage protection. These as well
will limit the power (current x voltage) that the power supply can
output, thus not allowing the motor to produce the necessary torque to
produce rotation.

The implication that a power supply 'pushes' power into a device is
incorrect, and a laymans attempt at explaining electrical circuit
theory. IMHO, it is quite a 'reach' to suggest that getting a larger
wattage power supply can fix the problem, although it can work. The
same effect could be obtained by taking some of the load OFF of the
smaller supply (e.g. disconnect bus loads, DVD/CDs/floppies, etc, or
even pull memory out of the MB (leave all but minimum).

John

 

[hr(bob) hofmann@att.net]

On Oct 12, 8:05 pm, "Chuck" <cscho...@mchsi.com> wrote:

Why won't a standard dimmer work when connected to 12VDC to 110VAC power inverter???

I successfully tested an 18ft long section of rope lights (Hunter brand) and a 3-stage touch dimmer in my house before taking out to install it in my RV. After plugging it into my 12VDC to 110VAC power inverter it just has one brightness level which is maximum brightness. Once its on, I can't turn it off again without unplugging it. I tried using a standard incandescent rotary dimmer with the exact same results. Why is this happening?

Why does it work properly on 110V 60Hz household current but not with the power inverter? Thanks.

My guess is that if you looked at the output of the inverter it is
full of high-frequency noise spikes that trigger the scr on
irrespective of where the threshold is set for diming for normal
relatively noise-free 60 HZ from the good -old power company. If you
listen to a portable AM radio anywhere in the RV, I bet it is almost
impossible to hear if the RV is running off the inverter. A large
capacitor acroos the line feed ing the dimmer, along with ferrite
beads on the input lines might make a low-pass filter that would be
effective enough to solve the problem, but I would n't give you more
than 50-50 odds. You really need an oscilloscope to look at the
inverter output.

H. R.(Bob) Hofmann

 

[David]

"hr(bob) hofmann@att.net" <hrhofmann@att.net> wrote in
message
news:1192239672.073237.18870@q5g2000prf.googlegroups.com...

On Oct 12, 8:05 pm, "Chuck" <cscho...@mchsi.com> wrote:
Why won't a standard dimmer work when connected to 12VDC
to 110VAC power inverter???

I successfully tested an 18ft long section of rope lights
(Hunter brand) and a 3-stage touch dimmer in my house
before taking out to install it in my RV. After plugging
it into my 12VDC to 110VAC power inverter it just has one
brightness level which is maximum brightness. Once its
on, I can't turn it off again without unplugging it. I
tried using a standard incandescent rotary dimmer with
the exact same results. Why is this happening?

Why does it work properly on 110V 60Hz household current
but not with the power inverter? Thanks.

My guess is that if you looked at the output of the
inverter it is
full of high-frequency noise spikes that trigger the scr
on
irrespective of where the threshold is set for diming for
normal
relatively noise-free 60 HZ from the good -old power
company. If you
listen to a portable AM radio anywhere in the RV, I bet it
is almost
impossible to hear if the RV is running off the inverter.
A large
capacitor acroos the line feed ing the dimmer, along with
ferrite
beads on the input lines might make a low-pass filter that
would be
effective enough to solve the problem, but I would n't
give you more
than 50-50 odds. You really need an oscilloscope to look
at the
inverter output.

H. R.(Bob) Hofmann

More than likely, the inverter puts out square wave and the
normal triggering mechanism for these dimmers assumes a sine
wave.

David

 

More than likely, the inverter puts out square wave and the
normal triggering mechanism for these dimmers assumes a sine
wave.

The high frequency components of the square wave are creating the

problem.

 

[Chuck]

Thanks to all for the explanations. Non-pure sinusoidal (square wave)
explanation must be it. I will just use the bright output level and an
on/off switch and be happy with that.

 

[hr(bob) hofmann@att.net]

On Oct 13, 8:23 am, "Chuck" <cscho...@mchsi.com> wrote:

Thanks to all for the explanations. Non-pure sinusoidal (square wave)
explanation must be it. I will just use the bright output level and an
on/off switch and be happy with that.

I'm still curious if you can use an AM radio in the RV when it is
running on the inverter?

H. R.(Bob) Hofmann

 

[Chuck]

"hr(bob) hofmann@att.net" <hrhofmann@att.net> wrote in message
news:1192321735.363265.100590@q3g2000prf.googlegroups.com...

On Oct 13, 8:23 am, "Chuck" <cscho...@mchsi.com> wrote:
Thanks to all for the explanations. Non-pure sinusoidal (square wave)
explanation must be it. I will just use the bright output level and an
on/off switch and be happy with that.

I'm still curious if you can use an AM radio in the RV when it is
running on the inverter?

H. R.(Bob) Hofmann

I will check the am radio reception and get back to you tomorrow.

 

[Jeanette Guire]

On Thu, 11 Oct 2007 17:09:15 GMT, Jeff Dittmar wrote:

Here is a photo of the latch from a clueless reviewer
http://www.dpreview.com/reviews/NikonCP3100/Images/battcompartment.jpg
Here is a photo of the common Nikon engineering flaw the reviewer missed
http://files.myopera.com/mcduret/blog/IMGP0065b.JPG
See how a paperclip & superglue were used to fix Nikon's engineering flaw
http://www.uthunter.com/images/Nikonfix.jpg
See how a tripod screw & plate were used to fix Nikon's engineering flaw
http://files.myopera.com/mcduret/blog/IMGP0070b.JPG
Here is a photo of how Nikon fixed the flaw themselves
http://www.scaredpoet.com/images/E7600_batterydoor.jpg
Does anyone know how to invoke the Nikon secret warranty?

Here are a dozen photos showing how I used the advice in this thread to fix
my son's Nikon Coolpix 3100 digital camera body which broke at exactly the
same spot in all the photographs listed above.

http://usera.imagecave.com/coolpixfixer/

You'll notice nobody said which drill bit to use, nor which dremel bit to
use, nor which glue to use - and I think I screwed up in all three but the
results still seem to work. It's a bit messy because I use the wrong dremel
tool and probably the wrong glue (it melted the camera body a bit).

It's too late for me but does anyone know what the Nikon Coolpix camera
bodies are made up of and therefore what glue to use which won't pit the
camera body everywhere it touches it wet?

 

[Jeanette Guire]

On Sun, 14 Oct 2007 22:50:33 -0700, Jeanette Guire wrote:

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From: Jeanette Guire <jeanetteguire@sbcglobal.net
Subject: Re: Did I buy the worst two Nikon cameras (or are they all this bad?)
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On Sat, 13 Oct 2007 16:51:09 -0400, Scott Schuckert wrote:

The battery doors are uniformly fragile on almost all digital cameras;
the Nikons you mention are perhaps a little bit worse than average. I
have experience with the 3100; with careful use it can be made to hold
up. But as you mention, the stupidity is that the door is not designed
to be easily replaced.

I found this wonderful thread while looking up how to fix my son's Nikon
Coolpix 3100 battery latch door camera body broken problem.

I latched onto the paperclip idea but nobody said which glue to use. I
bought Locktite superglue and Locktite epoxy but I think one or both of
those glues melted the camera body a bit. The camera body plastic is pitted
slightly and indented where the glue was wet but now has dried.

Does anyone know what the camera body plastic is made up of? The package
insert says not to use the Locktite Quick Set Epoxy on "polyethylene" or
"polypropylene".

Also, the articles didn't say WHAT SIZE drill bit to use so I used a #55
(0.052 inh) drill bit which seemed to work to drill the holes in the ribs
in the inside of the Nikon Coolpix camera body to hold the long legs of the
paperclip.

In addition, nobody said which dremel bit to use, and I munged up the
camera body by using one that was too large and unwieldy.

You can see a dozen step-by-step photos of my operation to recycle my son's
Nikon Coolpix 3100 camera at http://usera.imagecave.com/coolpixfixer/

Where can we put these instructions and photographs so that the next
thousand people with a Nikon Coolpix camera can fix it themselves?
http://usera.imagecave.com/coolpixfixer/

Not only did the prior articles (which were wonderful, mind you) not say
which dremel tool to use, which drill bit to use, which glue and epoxy to
use, but they also didn't say how to adjust the paperclip on the Nikon
Coolpix 2100 & 3100 camera body to fit the Nikon Coolpix battery latch
door.

I photographed a three-step description for the next hapless Nikon Coolpix
owner.

STEP 1
Pull the paperclip out of the Nikon Coolpix camera about a quarter inch
http://usera.imagecave.com/coolpixfixer/fix_nikon_coolpix_3100_battery_latch_007.gif

STEP 2
Gently close the Nikon Coolpix camera battery door on the paperclip
http://usera.imagecave.com/coolpixfixer/fix_nikon_coolpix_3100_battery_latch_008.gif

STEP 3
Open the camera battery door so the paperclip is now automatically adjusted
http://usera.imagecave.com/coolpixfixer/fix_nikon_coolpix_3100_battery_latch_009.gif

Even my glueing was a three-step process that wasn't described in the
otherwise wonderful notes on how to fix the Nikon Coolpix 2100 or Nikon
Coolpix 3100 camera battery latch.

STEP A
I drilled two 0.052 inch holes in the inside ribs of the Nikon Coolpix
camera body for the legs of the paperclip and I notched out two spots for
the paperclip in the edge of the camera body.
http://usera.imagecave.com/coolpixfixer/fix_nikon_coolpix_3100_battery_latch_004.gif

STEP B
I glued the paperclip in place with superglue on the Nikon Coolpix camera
http://usera.imagecave.com/coolpixfixer/fix_nikon_coolpix_3100_battery_latch_005.gif
http://usera.imagecave.com/coolpixfixer/fix_nikon_coolpix_3100_battery_latch_006.gif

STEP C
I added liberal amounts of epoxy for strength on the paperclip and Nikon
Coolpix 3100 camera body.
http://usera.imagecave.com/coolpixfixer/fix_nikon_coolpix_3100_battery_latch_010.gif
http://usera.imagecave.com/coolpixfixer/fix_nikon_coolpix_3100_battery_latch_011.gif

In the hopes of helping someone else with the Nikon Coolpix line of
cameras, what is the best way to post these photographs to help others?
http://usera.imagecave.com/coolpixfixer/fix_nikon_coolpix_3100_battery_latch_012.gif

 

[Jeanette Guire]

On Sun, 14 Oct 2007 23:31:03 -0700, Jeanette Guire wrote:

In the hopes of helping someone else with the Nikon Coolpix line of
cameras, what is the best way to post these photographs to help others?
http://usera.imagecave.com/coolpixfixer/fix_nikon_coolpix_3100_battery_latch_012.gif

For the record, I had called Nikon Service Relations at 800-645-6678 and
they basically said that many people have the problem with the Nikon
Coolpix series battery latch door breaking and that it wasn't something
they cared about.

 

[Edwin Pawlowski]

"Donna Ohl, Grady Volunteer Coordinator" <donna.ohl@sbcglobal.net> wrote in
message news:ykQuj.11754$J41.6050@newssvr14.news.prodigy.net...

On Tue, 19 Feb 2008 15:52:48 -0800 (PST), N8N wrote:
I still err on the side of too much PM because

PM?

preventative maintenance

 

[William Sommerwerck]

On Sun, 14 Oct 2007 23:31:03 -0700, Jeanette Guire wrote:

For the record, I had called Nikon Service Relations at 800-645-6678
and they basically said that many people have the problem with the
Nikon Coolpix series battery latch door breaking and that it wasn't
something they cared about.

This is perhaps a good reason for not owning a Nikon camera. Canon seems to
have a better attitude -- at least about their SLRs. (You can reach Customer
Service on Saturdays. Even early in the evening.)

It's worth noting that manufacturers are legally obliged to provide
"mechanical" replacement parts for at least three years after a product is
discontinued. The availability of parts _implies_ the availability of
service (though there seems to be no guarantee of _that_).

I'd suggest you get the necessary part and have an independent service shop
fix it -- though the cost might be more than you would care to pay.

Even better, I suggest you contact the Federal Trade Commission and file a
complaint.

By the way, the reason LocTite is not to be used on certain plastics is
because it's an anaerobic glue -- it sets in the absence of oxygen. Those
plastics allow oxygen to pass, and the glue won't harden.

 

[William Sommerwerck]

"Jeanette Guire" <jeanetteguire@sbcglobal.net> wrote in message
newskDQi.6203$lE2.1218@newssvr22.news.prodigy.net...

Here is a photo of the latch from a clueless reviewer
http://www.dpreview.com/reviews/NikonCP3100/Images/battcompartment.jpg
Here is a photo of the common Nikon engineering flaw the reviewer missed
http://files.myopera.com/mcduret/blog/IMGP0065b.JPG
See how a paperclip & superglue were used to fix Nikon's engineering
flaw
http://www.uthunter.com/images/Nikonfix.jpg
See how a tripod screw & plate were used to fix Nikon's engineering flaw
http://files.myopera.com/mcduret/blog/IMGP0070b.JPG
Here is a photo of how Nikon fixed the flaw themselves
http://www.scaredpoet.com/images/E7600_batterydoor.jpg
Does anyone know how to invoke the Nikon secret warranty?

That's REALLY BAD design. The "tongue in slot" lock is common among digital
cameras, but the slot is usually a molded space within the camera body --
not a fragile plastic loop projecting from it.

I agree -- a reviewer should have caught this and at least warned potential
buyers.

 

[William Sommerwerck]

"William Sommerwerck" <grizzledgeezer@comcast.net> wrote in message
news:yNadnepZjp4Go47anZ2dnUVZ_hCdnZ2d@comcast.com...

I'd suggest you get the necessary part and have an independent service
shop fix it -- though the cost might be more than you would care to pay.

PS: Pardon my stupidity in not having first looked carefully at the photos.
The "part" is a major chunk of the body, and is not easily replaceable.

 

[JW]

On Mon, 15 Oct 2007 05:27:13 -0700 Designer <xlnc07@cooltoad.com> wrote in
Message id: <1192451233.213038.117780@e9g2000prf.googlegroups.com>:

Hi ,

I am take part in a contest

Me are take part to.

 

[Jeanette Guire]

On Mon, 15 Oct 2007 03:31:11 -0700, William Sommerwerck wrote:

I'd suggest you get the necessary part and have an independent service
shop fix it -- though the cost might be more than you would care to pay.

PS: Pardon my stupidity in not having first looked carefully at the photos.
The "part" is a major chunk of the body, and is not easily replaceable.

I was going to mention that.

Not only is the "part" the camera body, but it's guaranteed to break given
the stresses on a little tiny loop of plastic.

Why couldn't Nikon have designed the latch better?
Is Nikon that stupid?

And why didn't the legion of reviewers for the Nikon Coolpix series notice
this? Are THEY that stupid?

Or is it just me?