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Don't forget the sled limit switch - brand and model info might help.No movements or laser light , totally dead CD player. Just -- in the
display.
Function sw and door latch sw ok. Plenty of 5V etc supplies around on the
chippery. Crystal and ceramic resonator have oscillation.
All 4 channel motor/focus driver o/p at 3.8V, all 4 inputs at 2.1V,
disable
is set off ie operational.
Pressing all sm chip leads , no change
Swapping laser and carrier/motors section with another one laying around,
the same zilch. No dodgy electrolytics.
Is there something obvious I'm overlooking ?
Not worth spending a lot of time on but a good customer for other stuff.
--
Diverse Devices, Southampton, England
electronic hints and repair briefs , schematics/manuals list on
http://home.graffiti.net/diverse:graffiti.net/
Hi Michael,I always open an outside faucet wide open for about five minutes any
time the water is turned off to blow as much crap out of the lines
before using anything inside the house.
On Tue, 19 Feb 2008 17:31:43 -0600, jakdedert wrote:
This could turn into a whole new thread of major f*ckups that we learned
from....
So far, on my side of the story, the water heater, full of tepid water,
fell over, and the drain valve popped off spewing water about. I won't soon
forget that! The garage still stinks of smelly carpet!
The replacement of the water heater seems to have clogged all the faucets
(easy to clean), showerheads (even easier to clean), tub (still clogged),
and maybe even the dishwasher (work in progress).
I'm not sure *where* the sand came from but it's clearly in all the faucets
so I guess we kicked it loose somehow in the water heater removal and
replacement process.
Anyway, now it's time to "remove" the dishwasher, if I can.
Does it look like it can be removed from these pictures taken today?
Counter Top:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/donnaohl/2279233722/in/set-72157603947125744/
Latch:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/donnaohl/2279869536/in/set-72157603947125744/
Bottom Right:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/donnaohl/2279869542/in/set-72157603947125744/
Bottom Left:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/donnaohl/2279869546/in/set-72157603947125744/
Do you think this dishwasher can be removed without breaking the counter
tile?
Donna
bwaaaaaaaaahahahahahArfa Daily <arfa.daily@ntlworld.com> wrote in message
news:OFMJi.37428$Db6.1245@newsfe3-win.ntli.net...
"N Cook" <diverse8@gazeta.pl> wrote in message
news:fd7tdb$s5d$1@inews.gazeta.pl...
No movements or laser light , totally dead CD player. Just -- in the
display.
Function sw and door latch sw ok. Plenty of 5V etc supplies around on
the
chippery. Crystal and ceramic resonator have oscillation.
All 4 channel motor/focus driver o/p at 3.8V, all 4 inputs at 2.1V,
disable
is set off ie operational.
Pressing all sm chip leads , no change
Swapping laser and carrier/motors section with another one laying
around,
the same zilch. No dodgy electrolytics.
Is there something obvious I'm overlooking ?
Not worth spending a lot of time on but a good customer for other stuff.
Can't think of anything that you seem to be overlooking. First place I
would
have gone is the same as you - to the door switch. Even though the switch
is
working ok in itself, I would still feel inclined to make sure that its
connections are making it all the way back to the micro, and doing
something
ie pulling a pin to ground or whatever. I've had internal pull-up
resistors
on micro pins fail. The only other thing that it's worth doing when all
else
has failed, and you've given up, is to try a possible 'real' system reset,
by holding in the power button and applying power, and if that fails, a
'naughty' engineer's reset, by turning off and removing power, then
hooking
a croc lead to ground, and stroking round every pin of every 'micro-ish'
IC
both on the front panel, and the CD process board. I've known this to
restore screwed up system controls on a number of occasions. I got it
originally from a manufacturer's training course, but so far back in the
dim
mists of time, I can't remember which one now ...
Arfa
Perhaps stripping off at midnight and dancing around it on a full moon might
work as well.
Hi,
I have a Magnavox TV model RJ5540 AK01, chassis 27G1-01AA
(mfg 04/89) in my shop that won't turn on. Note: I do not have SM
(Photofact 2676). Customer said it was hard to turn on and the problem
got worse over time. Now it won't turn on. The reg. B+ goes to 34V
at turn on. I replaced C426 10uf 50V which measured low, but that didn't
fix the problem.
Thanks in advance, Brad
Before you type your password, credit card number, etc.,
be sure there is no active keystroke logger (spyware) in your PC.
clog can be anywhere and is likely multiple locations.......On Wed, 20 Feb 2008 16:51:51 GMT, GregS wrote:
I might first think about using a good shop vac and start sucking at the feed
from the water heater or main entrance.
Hi GregS,
Unfortunately, we do not have a "shop vac". My vacuum cleaner isn't likely
to do the job either ...
I will try tonight to remove the inlet water line if I can find where it
goes and to remove the solonoid to see if either have a screen.
If it's not that, then I'll look at the "float" and the "nozzle" wherever
they are, but first I'll try to see if it's the blue solonoid or the hidden
inlet screen if there is any.
Donna
You can only try to get it out but to avoid problems try clearing the hoseOn Tue, 19 Feb 2008 17:31:43 -0600, jakdedert wrote:
This could turn into a whole new thread of major f*ckups that we learned
from....
So far, on my side of the story, the water heater, full of tepid water,
fell over, and the drain valve popped off spewing water about. I won't
soon
forget that! The garage still stinks of smelly carpet!
The replacement of the water heater seems to have clogged all the faucets
(easy to clean), showerheads (even easier to clean), tub (still clogged),
and maybe even the dishwasher (work in progress).
I'm not sure *where* the sand came from but it's clearly in all the
faucets
so I guess we kicked it loose somehow in the water heater removal and
replacement process.
Anyway, now it's time to "remove" the dishwasher, if I can.
Does it look like it can be removed from these pictures taken today?
Counter Top:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/donnaohl/2279233722/in/set-72157603947125744/
Latch:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/donnaohl/2279869536/in/set-72157603947125744/
Bottom Right:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/donnaohl/2279869542/in/set-72157603947125744/
Bottom Left:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/donnaohl/2279869546/in/set-72157603947125744/
Do you think this dishwasher can be removed without breaking the counter
tile?
Donna
soleanoid valves are easy to replace but expensive
Hi Rick,"Donna Ohl, Grady Volunteer Coordinator" <donna.ohl@sbcglobal.net> wrote:
I was wondering why BOTH the hot water outlet and the cold-water inlet had
check valves built into the respective dialectric nipples provided in the
top of the new tank!
If you are talking about the galvanized nipples with blue plastic flaps that go
between the heater at the cold/hot ports, those are thermal breaks - not check
valves. They reduce the heat loss from the tank into the pipes when the water is
not being used.
A check valve is significantly larger than a nipple and would typically only be
be found after the main valve and before the heater.
Hi trader,There will be less water coming out than you experienced with your old
tank because of the vacuum of having all the valves in the house shut,
shut off the gas a long time before ...
you can use up most of the hot water in the tank
Hi hallerb,the plastic valves are fine if they get just ONE use, to drain the
tank at end of use.......
Hi GregS,I might first think about using a good shop vac and start sucking at the feed
from the water heater or main entrance.
Do one tap at a time, or valve.In article <eSXuj.11877$Ch6.6279@newssvr11.news.prodigy.net>, "Donna Ohl, Grady
Volunteer Coordinator" <donna.ohl@sbcglobal.net> wrote:
On Wed, 20 Feb 2008 07:48:20 GMT, James Sweet wrote:
Hey that looks identical to the one I just yanked out of my place
When you remove the kick plate, you'll find adjustable screw feet
The solenoid valve will be right up front on the left side, mine is blue.
Hi James,
You gave me the courage to tackle this maybe-clogged dishwasher:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/donnaohl/sets/72157603947125744/
Here's a pic, taken just now, with the "kick plate" removed:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/donnaohl/2279869546/
Are you suggesting I can remove that blue "solonoid" on the left side with
the brass pipe in it and that might be what's probably clogged?
Donna
I might first think about using a good shop vac and start sucking at the feed
from the water heater or main entrance. open all taps, and of course close
main valve. I think the line would have to reseparated at the tank. The
dishwasher fill would have to be activated to open valve.
??
greg
I might first think about using a good shop vac and start sucking at the feedOn Wed, 20 Feb 2008 07:48:20 GMT, James Sweet wrote:
Hey that looks identical to the one I just yanked out of my place
When you remove the kick plate, you'll find adjustable screw feet
The solenoid valve will be right up front on the left side, mine is blue.
Hi James,
You gave me the courage to tackle this maybe-clogged dishwasher:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/donnaohl/sets/72157603947125744/
Here's a pic, taken just now, with the "kick plate" removed:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/donnaohl/2279869546/
Are you suggesting I can remove that blue "solonoid" on the left side with
the brass pipe in it and that might be what's probably clogged?
Donna
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Folks:
Actually, this is a rather basic question, and a
scarcely hoopy frood could probably answer it.
Unfortunately, I burned a hole in my towel with
a soldering iron and had to throw it out.
I have an old MRC Ampack that works. It has
a decent power output, which is nice, and a
good-quality rheostat, but poor slow-speed
control on many of my locomotives. It was a
great $2 deal, but I want to make it better,
and here's what I want to do:
http://www.geocities.com/kezelak/ampack_mods.jpg
F1 is some sort of circuit breaker in a glass
envelope.
Basically, I want to make it into a very simple
voltage-follower transistor throttle, and add a
pulse-power switch to cut out one diode. If my
calculations are correct, the circuit should work.
The TIP-120 is supposed to have a gain of at
least 1000, and R3 is there to limit the base
current to no greater than 1.2 mA, which seems
adequate for controlling 1 A with that gain.
The circuit is pretty similar to what my MRC
Railpower 1300 contains, as far as I can tell,
and that gives good slow-speed control, even
without the option of pulse DC for low speeds.
I'm not really worried about heating effects.
I don't go in for coreless motors.
I am going to mount Q1 on an aluminum heat
sink. I could calculate the size needed, but
I'm not going to; I'll just go with "as big as fits"
and replace the $1.59 component if the smoke
comes out.
Any comments on this circuit before I
breadboard it up and try to fry things? It
seems simple, but I'm new at this.
Cordially yours:
Gerard P.
President, a box of track and a gappy table.
Hi Hallerb,I just installed a couple dishwashers, one for us and one for a
friend, and one for a friend, no screen washers,,,,,,,,,
Hi Only Just,Any good installation of an appliance like a dishwasher
should have a filter screen / rubber washer fitted to the hose fitting to
the tap that controls the water to the appliance
So far, on my side of the story, the water heater, full of tepid water,This could turn into a whole new thread of major f*ckups that we learned
from....